Home button/SIM card not detected after opening back cover - Galaxy Tab S Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Home button/SIM card not detected after opening back cover - Galaxy Tab S Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I may have messed up something by opening the back cover, but looking for some guidance here.
I had some trouble with random reboots and random SD card errors, which didn't resolve after a few clean factory wipes and new SD cards.
So I thought i'd remove the back cover, unseat and reseat every connector, and try egain.
However, I ran into some additional issues since I tried to fix it:
1. SD card works flawlessly - yay!
2. No more random reboots (4 days and counting) - yay!
3. My SIM card is not detected - I now get an error that my SIM card is not detected; tried a new one, same result
4. My home button doesn't work anymore; tried safe mode as well. Only the back and recent programs soft buttons work
I've opened the back cover a few times now, dusted the connectors, reseated them to make sure they're fully engaged, made sure nothing is pinged, etc.
I noticed the home button connects to the main board through the mic, SIM, Power/SD card circuits. Since the Power/SC card still work, there must be something wrong downstream (e.g. at the SIM card flex circuit) that killed everything downstream.
Does anybody have any guidance on what to look at next?

update: ok, so noticed the book cover sensors (Hall sensor) don't work either. Meaning the screen doesn't turn on/off when I open/close the cover.
Does anybody know where that sensor is located?

here is picture of the major components that work and don't work
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

index41 said:
update: ok, so noticed the book cover sensors (Hall sensor) don't work either. Meaning the screen doesn't turn on/off when I open/close the cover.
Does anybody know where that sensor is located?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the SM-T800 wif, similar to the LTE but has a dummy SIM slot
The Hall sensor is small rectangular chip on the flex of SIM but after the SIM slot. First, you open the back cover the wrong way which still has the frame of back cover attached to the LCD frame. What you did remove is just a part of the rear cover assembly.
In order to see all serial connections start from SD, USB port, the back cover should be removed from the front. Search youtube how to open it. Do your way a few times, the back cover won't close anymore as you will break some locking plastic tabs from the back cover.
If you want to see where the leak comes from the water lines, the border of dry and wet area is the section should be checked.
The same thing with this serial connections, where the failing start is where you should look for your connection if it's connected properly.
The reboot problem comes from battery connectors, there is no point to disconnect and reconnect all flex cables.

Thanks Beut, appreciate the response.
Agreed, I think the failure point is at the SD/Power flex, since everything downstream (SIM card, hall IC, Home button) has failed.
I replaced all of the flex cables this past weekend with replacements that I ordered last week from TVC Mall, but the behavior is EXACTLY the same! Still no SIM card, hall IC, or home button functionality. I'm a bit at a loss what could cause the failure at this point....
Here is what I replaced:
- SIM card reader and Hall IC sensor flex cable
- Charging port and SD card reader, flex cable
- Mic and flex cable

Make sure your USB flex is fully seated, the line on the flex should be aligned with the one on mainboard.
If everything is working before, it should work now unless you damaged a connector when pressing it to other. Watch carefully these connectors, pins aligned in rectangular shape. If pressing when it is not aligned with other will bend pins.

Beut said:
Make sure your USB flex is fully seated, the line on the flex should be aligned with the one on mainboard.
If everything is working before, it should work now unless you damaged a connector when pressing it to other. Watch carefully these connectors, pins aligned in rectangular shape. If pressing when it is not aligned with other will bend pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The flex is aligned, but i'll have to check the pins. That's a good point...
Do you know if the power port/SD card flex assembly is the same for the SM-T800 and the SM-T807V (Verizon LTE version)?
They look the same and I replaced the SM-T807V with the SM-T800 version...just want to make sure it's not missing circuit lines that may part of the problem.

Most parts of them are the same, I can swap mainboard of Wifi to a LTE tablet

Update: I inspected the USB/SD card flex and connector/pin assembly on the motherboard, and they all seem fine - pictures below. I also inspected the downstream connectors (e.g. from USB/SD card flex to the SIM/Hall-IC flex) and they also seem OK. However, still everything downstream from the USB/SD flex assembly isn't being recognized by the tablet. I've tried all new flex assemblies and there is no change at all. I'm at a loss on what to look at next - any guidance would be appreciated.

This is the connector from USB flex cable
And this is the connector from SIM flex
You have to look closely if there is any bent pin.

They look fine, i even swapped the cables with new ones. I'm running out of options here.
Do I have to reformat the tablet after HW component swaps? Or is there tamper protection if I start the tablet without a back cover on?

I have no idea either, turn the tablet on without the back cover is fine. I do all the time when testing hardwares. Even I can test with the mainboard, USB charging flex and battery only to see if the mainboard is taking charge.
You can try a Factory Reset but I don't think it will help. Normally when I change the LCD assembly and put everything together, I can test the HOME button without power on. When connected to a charger, press the HOME button, the flashing battery icon should show up

Awesome, thanks for that tip! I did some probing around with the back cover odd and the source of the problem is the motherboard connector where the USB power flex plugs in.
When I put pressure on the connector I get full functionality back...intermittently.
Even though the connector looks fine, maybe it has some cold or bad solder joints....or I damaged or cracked it during disassembly.
Any idea where I can get a replacement board for the verizon LTE version? Is it even worth replacing?

index41 said:
Awesome, thanks for that tip! I did some probing around with the back cover odd and the source of the problem is the motherboard connector where the USB power flex plugs in.
When I put pressure on the connector I get full functionality back...intermittently.
Even though the connector looks fine, maybe it has some cold or bad solder joints....or I damaged or cracked it during disassembly.
Any idea where I can get a replacement board for the verizon LTE version? Is it even worth replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to use a tape to hold down the locking tab and cable to mainboard, it may fix the problem.
You can apply flux and reheat the connector, either by solder iron or hot air, I don't know if you're capable of doing this. Otherwise, ask someone who know how to solder to help.
If you don't need LTE, wifi mainboard SM-T800 will fit perfectly

Beut said:
Try to use a tape to hold down the locking tab and cable to mainboard, it may fix the problem.
You can apply flux and reheat the connector, either by solder iron or hot air, I don't know if you're capable of doing this. Otherwise, ask someone who know how to solder to help.
If you don't need LTE, wifi mainboard SM-T800 will fit perfectly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried the tape, didn't work. It seems that I need to apply decent pressure right on top of the connector for it to work.
I taped a thin piece of foam on top of the connector that presses down on the connector when I put the back cover on.
I have a working home button again, but the SIM and IC Hall sensor don't work. I have to put direct pressure on the connector with my fingers to get those to work.
I can do basic solder, but have never tried to re-flux a connector, or soldered a connector with this pin density.
I'll remove the main board this coming weekend and check out the back-side to see if I can see any disturbed solder joints.
Thanks for all the help! I'll keep this board posted on what happens.

This is a surface mount connector, nothing is on the back

How would I go about heating the solder up without burning the connector itself?

index41 said:
How would I go about heating the solder up without burning the connector itself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use hot air or iron solder you should be able heat up the mainboard close to these pins, don't heat up the plastic connector as you're going to melt it.
It seems you should give it to a professional to do the rework. they're very small pins. I think the problem may be from the locking clip, somehow you may damage it.
without this locking clip, the cable will loosely connected in the connector. This is just my guess as I have no physically access to your tablet.
I see very often, novices break or damage these locking clips or the connector as they don't know which way to unlock the cable.
---------- Post added at 02:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:26 AM ----------
index41 said:
How would I go about heating the solder up without burning the connector itself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't try if you don't know how, you already damaged your tablet from a simple disconnect and reconnect cables.
There is no part for these connectors, you damage it then you're done, looking for another mainboard.

Beut said:
Use hot air or iron solder you should be able heat up the mainboard close to these pins, don't heat up the plastic connector as you're going to melt it.
It seems you should give it to a professional to do the rework. they're very small pins. I think the problem may be from the locking clip, somehow you may damage it.
without this locking clip, the cable will loosely connected in the connector. This is just my guess as I have no physically access to your tablet.
I see very often, novices break or damage these locking clips or the connector as they don't know which way to unlock the cable.
---------- Post added at 02:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:26 AM ----------
Don't try if you don't know how, you already damaged your tablet from a simple disconnect and reconnect cables.
There is no part for these connectors, you damage it then you're done, looking for another mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Beut. I'll use the tablet as-is for now (no LTE, no IC-Hall detection) and may replace the main board at some point in the future, if I find an LTE version. Doesn't make sense to replace it with a non-LTE version, since I get that functionality now with the broken board/connector.
You are probably right about the locking clip on the connector. I will reinspect the hinge and pins and may try to shim the flex cable and tape the connector. But other than that, i'll leave it as-is.
Appreciate all the help tracing this down.

Related

[Q] Micro USB part (desoldering)

The micro-USB connector on my HTC Desire is damaged. Charging is not a problem. However, trying to connect it to a computer causes shows flaky behavior. I took it into the vendor who are estimating a charge of $140 to fix it.
I can solder/desolder the connector quite easily as I have SMT facilities at work.
I would like to source the connector first however.
Anyone know the part number or where I can source one from?

Hi
try to sample one from eg Molex.com
I think you have to pay for the shipping oid
http://www.molex.com/molex/products...pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=usb_products
Good luck

Thanks.
Would be good to get a more definitive part. Dont want to desolder and realize I have the wrong part.
Has anyone seen the unsoldered PCB footprint for the device?
Is the connector a bottom or midmount?

Images taken from the HTC disassembly video (is on youtube)
But maybe there's just a cold solder joint and you don't have to replace the whole connector.

Thanks. Those pictures are neat. I took some of my own after opening up the back casing.
The damage is inside the connector (the cable wont stay connected). So not a dry solder joint problem.
I guess I could try and buy a few different connectors and try to see which fits.

[Q] Accidentally tore off two surface mount capacitor... what to do?

Hi folks, here's the story,
my nexus started to act up (phantom charging) a few weeks ago. So I tried to clean the usb port the best I could (there was surprisingly a lot of pocket lint in it!). However that didn't do the trick, so next thing in my list was maybe it could be caused by corroded connection inside the phone(happened to a phone I had before). So I proceeded to open my nexus but accidentally tore off two surface mount capacitors while opening the phone. So my question is, has anyone any ideas what those two capacitors (circled in red) are used for? Or had any similar incident and what you did to repair it?
To be noted that I don't have motor skills precise enough to solder these back and there's no one in my town that could either...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/96ll0limxwia5z6/CellCapacitorBig.jpg
Thanks for the help!

I'm not sure what those Surface Mount Capacitors do, but you wouldn't directly solder them back on. You would use solder paste (flux) to hold the capacitor in place, and then use a heat gun to melt the suspended solder, forming a permanent connection. You will need a micro tweezers, heat gun, and solder paste, all available from Radio Shack, and should cost you no more than $20-30.

I will not connect the board to the battery, the 2 caps maybe and most likely is important..

PCB Connector Replacement

A few month's ago I'd ordered a LCD screen replacement for my incredible, and so when I got back from work o immediately took out the LCD from the package and started taking out my old broken. For me it was my first time experience replacing an LCD phone screen, anyways back to what I was going to say was when I unplugged the connector for the screen and the motherboard itself, after attempt to plug the connectors back together; the display connector plugged in perfect while the connector for the motherboard didn't do so well. The white piece that covers the PCB Connector, it tears a little bit off and I'd tried to power on the phone, meanwhile it didn't I tried again and things got worst. So I search online for a PCB Connector and see one, so I decided to and try to rip off the PCB Connector and plan to order the PCB Connector. So the part to attempt ripping off the PCB Connector didn't go so well, and stop there before things got worst. Any suggestions how I can replace that? I can't just leave my phone in my room and have to cover in dust. I need my phone back, how can I fix these? I know this thread seems long but I tries but it details for you guys.

This person posted this about kindle fire not working
At first my Fire wouldn't charge unless it was placed in a particular way, then it stopped altogether. I pronounced it dead, and left it stowed away for a few months, but then decided to try and fix it. I think this guide may be useful for anyone who wants to fix a kindle with dead charging. Note that you may damage your kindle in the process so if you are still under warranty, use it.
1. Take off the back cover. You may need to use a guitar pick or something similar.
2. Take off the two battery leads. One has a locking mechanism which needs to be lifted before the ribbon cable can be taken out.
3. Take out all screws connected motherboard to rest of device. There are connections underneath the board so be careful when lifting it.
4. When I lifted it, I found the USB connector had broken off the entire board (if it was even attached in the first place) and this was obviously causing the problems, as the USB connector could now only connect to the motherboard if pressure was applied so that it was being held on somehow by it. To fix this, I could have tried to solder the tiny USB connections onto the board, but instead I used a different way which is working perfectly for many weeks now.
5. Get a rubber band and tie a not in it numerous times until the knot is about 3-4mm thick. Cut off remaining rubber band and superglue the knot onto the bottom side of the USB connector (the side that faces the display when assembled). Then insert the USB connector into it's little holder under the board, with the rubber band firm beneath it and replace the motherboard. Redo all the screws, reconnect any connectors you've disconnected (you may have had to disconnect some to remove/move the motherboard - always undo battery cables before you work on the innards of any device).
6. If you've done this correctly, the round rubber band knot should press the USB connector continuously on to the board. Test using your stock charger before you put it back together because the back cover is pretty hard to get off.
7. Replace the back cover and enjoy!
Notes: My rubber band knot was actually a little too large, which meant that to connect the USB plug I had to press the kindle together to insert the cable, but charging is reliable and working so far, so I'm happy about that.
If you found this post helpful, please click the Thanks button!
And I think he's long gone it's an old post and I need help what does he mean by connect the rubber band to the usb where do you put the rubber band where do you super glue it the motherboard kindle or the usb and what does he mean by tie it how do you tie a rubber band

P605 Several USB issues

Hi XDA community,
firstly thank you for your all your great jobs here!
I own a P605 Galaxy Note 10.1 2014. It has been "soft"-rooted (through kernel bug, without KNOXing the device) but it has probably gone out of warranty.
I experence some serious issues with any USB-related operation, let me enumerate them:
1) USB Charging: when powered off the tablet charges normally (but slowly), when powered on the tablet charges (fastly) until the screen switches off, then it stops charging.
2) USB OTG: when attatching an OTG cable, the device detect it but when attaching an USB drive nothing happens
3) USB to PC: on a Windows OS, attaching the tablet results in a "Device Descriptor" error, even with the tablet in download mode, so any firmware flashing operation is impossible. On Linux OS there's a similar error, related to device descriptors.
Obviously, when I bought it everything worked fine. Sadly, I suspect an hardware issue... I'm asking you any kind of help: tests to indentify exactly the problem and, hopefully, a solution.
P.S. I've already tried changing USB cable/USB port/PC/charger/mood/wearing/house...:crying:

Hello , i too have this problems, do you run also Lollipop 5.1.1`? Any solution found?

1) If not using the original charger/cable (or non compliant) then there's a possibility thad the data pins of the charger are not shortened. You need a charger compliant with our tablets or data-pins-shorted cable. (you can do it yourself but the cable will only be used for charging)
https://www.ibm.com/developerworks/...ssue_solved_hack_your_usb_cable_today?lang=en
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adapter-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM
2) try Es file explorer (remember ntfs is not supported)
3) install kies or try
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...G_USB_Driver_for_Mobile_Phones_v1.5.45.00.exe
(just the usb driver)

I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.

With Davidmueller's Lineage and RR there is a (recurring) charging problem with usb cables. You need a cable like the one supplied, where the second GND line on the m-usb plug is not connected. The plug of the white original cable has the contact missing, i bought a recent, black Samsung cable with 5contacts,also working. None of the other cables i tried, did. The problem was there almost a year ago, got solved and re-occured during the last updates.

Results after the replace of the usb module.
As suggested by Jan&March, I tried cleaning the usb module connector on the motherboard. It solved EVERY issue for about 3 days, then they came up again. So I thought that maybe, touching and cleaning the connector, there was some bad contact on the cable. I bought a replacement part for the usb module. It has been working for about 2 weeks before showing the same issues today. I hope I'm helping someone with my experience. Any suggestions?

The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.

lecorbusier said:
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, so what do you recommend?

That would require re-soldering. It's hard to tell, it's less likely if the connector's aren't among the most prominent parts under the back cover and won't make contact with it. I can't tell from the pics i've seen.

Jan&March said:
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this just did it for me. i think the bracket that secures the ribbon cable isn't exerting enough pressure on the cable so maybe some data pins may not be in contact.

Develop Bugs

welcome