I have a FTV2 rooted to 5.2.1.1 using the guide at atvnews. I have installed Kodi and configured it to my liking. Im using HDMI cable to connect it to directly to my Harman Kardon AVR-154 input HDMI3. I have used this port for other devices and I can get surround sound so I know the port works on the receiver. Im also running Kodi 16.2 Jarvis.
Anyhow, I cant get digital audio to come through my speakers from the AVR unit. I have sound coming out from the TV. My TV is a Samsung unit, it has CEC enabled and it locates the FTV2 unit.
I have logged into Kodi and enabled pass through and enabled digital receiver option as well. On my receiver, I have HDMI3 selected and regardless of the digital output option selected, there is no audio coming out of my speakers when a movie is being played. Is there any option or setting I can change to get this working?
When I checked audio on the FTV its set to Digital Output through HDMI.
Finally, another issue I am having is the original remote not being able to be paired with my FTV2. Im using a USB hub, so I have a physical keyboard connected to it and am able to navigate through the menus this way but would like to have my original remote working. I have tried the system options method and its not working.
Any suggestions to my two issues?
google firetv kodi sorround (first result on xda, even has pictures)
google firetv pair remote (look for the reddit thread)
Also, don't expect anyone to care that you connected your FireTV to HDMI port 3, and that your AV reciever outputs "digital audio" to your speakers (doubt it), or which Harman Cardon receiver you bought. Chances are you will not find anyone in here with the same setup to be able to replicate your issue, so you have to start thinking and breaking down the issue yourself.
The internet is not a free support tech, that will stand in you living room and mutter "have you tried port 2 instead":
It s the "can someone fix my home router" issue all over again. Connectivity issues are hard to "phone in solutions for". It is your responsibility to try to understand and solve them, not ours. Never expect custom made solutions for your equipment, your port configuration, and so on. It's not going to happen.
Other people troubleshooting your issue (I'm refering to the xda thread I'm having you look up yourself) have installed different Kodi builds (SMPC) and even switched AVRs to pinpoint the issue. Maybe try some of that yourself. (After reading the thread I am refering to).
Also - use google. Keep questions at least somewhat concise. Show that you have tried to tackle the issue yourself (including google). If your remote turns out to be broken (in the reddit thread you find the button press thats needed to put it in pair mode), don't ask XDA for help, thats a product support question...
ALso, nothing of what you describe has anything to do with being rooted, so the title is misleading.
Hopefully a bit more useful then the post above.. (If thats all you had to say, then, why bother responding in the first place?)
1) To the Remote.... AFAIK the Remote that comes with the AFTV2 is some 802.11 WiFi job that only works with the AFTV(2)? It is NOT to be confused with the older Bluetooth Remote (AFTV1), which as I understand does not have the Mic on it. Sadly I have the latter Device, and the way to pair it is to depress the Home Button for 20s. Yes the on-screen instructions say 10s but in my experience that's BS! You'll know that the Remote is pairing when the throbbing white light turns yellow-brown. Before going back to white, and disappearing all together.
As to your Audio Setup... Have you made sure to go into System > Settings > System (Making sure to have activated the 'Expert' Settings level), then; Audio output
Number of Channels - 2.0 (Yes this must always be 2.0 for everything to work!)
Enable Passthrough (Obviously)
Dolby Digital (AC3) capable, and
-Enable Dolby Digital (AC3) Transcoding
This may be the cause of your problems. In short you have to enable this IF you have an older Amp such as myself which does NOT support PCM Multichannel Audio. (Something which is AFAIK only available over HDMI e.g. Dolby HD & DTS-MA*), you will NOT want to enable this. Otherwise if you have to use the older S/PDIF (Optical or, Coaxial), to drive your Amp, in my case though my TVs ARC (Audio Return Channel), e.g. the S/PDIF Out is on the TV. Then you must enable it their.
One other note here Depending on your TV, you may also have to troll though the Audio Settings there and, locate the Digital Out Setting (Or whatever passes for that Setting on your set.), and either set it to PCM, or Compressed. In my setup it has to be compressed for DD/DTS to work
DTS capable receiver should probably also be ticked.
Now to test it...
I would recommend you find the Big Buck Bunny Add-on, since it covers a broader range of parameters. Resolution, 3D, Audio Formats which seems to be your chief concern here. I could also just toss out their that IceFilms also has mostly 720p HD Shows, and Movies as well and more often then not also in DD5.1. though the latter is less shady then the former, even if it's less practical. But, unless you have some idea of where to find HQ Stuff with DD5.1 or DTS, then chances are it will certainly only be an AAC 2.0 Stream. Which of course will never be in Surround.
*If your AMP for NOT support either DD-HD, or DTS-MA, then it may be safe to assume that it also doesn't not support PCM Audio either. In which case you'll need to readjust your settings to use the S/PDIF settings instead.
Congratulations, you just spelled out the entire posting I suggested the OP googles for once again, in regards to the correct pass through settings.
(To be fair, you went into more detail regarding PCM Audio vs other Kodi Audio options, than even the original thread.)
You spelled out that to re-pair the remote, you have to press the home key for 20 seconds. Which the OP would have learned by googling firetv pair remote, in five seconds on their own.
I do not assume the OP is struggling with a Fire TV 1 remote, also - the AFTV2 doesn't have a SPDIF out anymore.
To be honest, somewhere after "I rooted my Fire TV", "I put the cable in HDMI 3", and "my Harman Kardon sends digital audio to my speakers" - I lost all patience with the a guy that needed Kodi settings he could have googled in 5 minutes and an instruction on how to get the remote into pairing mode, which he could have googled in 5 seconds.
You are a better man than I am - I would have liked to see the OP go the long route to get to the same answers...
---
Two other nice things to learn from this:
- Make the posting title descriptive, and not the first thing thats comes to your mind, or a bait and switch that ultimately has nothing to do with your question. Other people might search this forum for the same issue - and a descriptive title helps them not to have to ask the question again, and that means that we don't have to answer it again - because presumably most people can be asked to google an issue, before resorting to a personal help request.
- Show that you took some effort to pinpoint the issue first. If your request starts with a description of your living room, something urks me as being wrong. Don't name your AV reciever, but take the time to learn which audio standards it supports. Don't state, that the Fire TV hangs on HDMI 3 - but take the time to test the other HDMI ports so you can exclude that one as the cause of your problems..
Basics.
Also - leaning how to do basic troubleshooting using google on your own - isn't necessarily a bad thing, because the next time you won't be describing your livingroom to people on the internet again, if you should have a different issue.
Don't assume, we like doing the legwork (what audio standards does his receiver support, yes - lets play Amazon support and tell him how to pair his remote (because of course you didn't consult the manual (page 43 btw: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/customerdocumentation/Amazon_Fire_TV_User_Guide.pdf ) or google).
I did use google and even reddit and was recommended to come here by someone.
I wasnt looking for a step-by-step guide, merely if someone else had a similar issue. By pointing out my hardware, perhaps someone ran into a different issue with the same make or even model of AVR unit. But I was simply hoping for some direction or what I could check and test for.
I simply asked for insight or what I could look for, not to have a reply that really wasnt necessary.
And by mentioning root and HDMI 3, you set the perimeters to make sure that, ...
Its ok - you won.
Someone did provide a detailed solution.
Just understand, that if you had found the surround sound settings topic before, Ichijoes explanation would now possibly be visible there, where future users would find it more easily. In a thread named "Im rooted and have two issues" - they probably won't look.
Also, just as an aside and not meant as a passive agressive poke - AV recievers have to be interoperable with other equipments. Thats where standards come in (which audio standards does mine support, which audio format do I want from Kodi...) -- so it actually is worth the time to "learn them". They basically are what also the manufacturer is "betting on", so he has a market he can sell into.
The chance that someone also owns the exact same equipment and has solved exactly your problem before, and now happens to see your thread - is always very low with all interoperability/connectivity stuff. Understand that there are maybe a dozen of people floating around in a forum like this who can and might be willing to do even basic trouble shooting for you. Maybe 100s if you add the educated lurkers out there who might chime in, when they see an issue they have solved in the past.
Thats your "pool" for the off chance - "maybe you have the same equipment and issue as I do" bet. And usually it means, that you arent successfull with it. Now if you just ask the standards question (even on the level of "I cant get surround sound - what could be the culprit") your chances increase manyfold.
So whenever I see a "i have a A and a B, and they don't work - I've already restarted the device" usually not only does it read to me as "doesn't know the basics", it also screams "doesnt wan't to learn, wan'ts product support". Now while this is a product forum (and XDA also sees the people in here as a product support community) -- people in here usually don't see themselves as product support assistants.
Again - not saying this in an aggressive tone, this is the post-battle talk - about details that will eventually be lost, when this thread leaves the first pages.
Standards matter. Showing that you'd much rather "learn" than to get your problem solved matters as well. At least to me... But then, what do I know...
Related
Hey Guys,
I need your help. I currently have a carputer running Windows XP in my car now with an 8" touchscreen interface. It works and does what I want it to but I'm thinking I want a cleaner solution. At first, I was thinking about loading Android onto it but then I was thinking I could probably go one step further. My EVO does everything I currently have in the car (nav, music, video, etc) and it'd be awesome to use my EVO as the CPU if I could get it working with a bigger screen. Is there some kind of device on the market that acts as a remote display/screen that allows seamless touchscreen functionality? I'm talking about mirroring the display of the EVO. Like via bluetooth or HDMI out with USB interface for the touchscreen function?? That would work so much better because all I would have to do is mount the screen and run power to it. I could completely remove all of the computer hardware saving space and points of failure. It'd be best via bluetooth that way I wouldn't even have to take it out of my pocket. If there was a way to get it to work with the HDMI port for the video/audio feed and the micro-USB port for the touchscreen interface, I could just run a dock in the car and work it that way. If anybody knows of a device or a solution that would accomplish this, PLEASE let me know! If you think you have an easier/better idea, please feel free to share that as well! Thanks!
-Greg
I know there are several developers on the brink of completely unlocking the HMDI port functionality so I know it can be accomplished...but getting the touchscreen to be seamless I think would be the most challenging part...
Ok, so after changing some search terms, I was able to find something similar: Mimo USB Monitor. The entire monitor (power, video feed, and touchscreen interface) is though one USB connection. I came across this XDA thread that pretty much explains how it could possibly work: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=898418 Has anybody done any research on this or know anybody that has or is currently working on something like this??
Any ideas??
That wont work. The usb port does NOT do video out. Your only option for video out is the hdmi port, which as of right now, will only output video and pictures. As said above, there are dev's working on full hdmi output, but who knows when it will be available.
sitlet said:
That wont work. The usb port does NOT do video out. Your only option for video out is the hdmi port, which as of right now, will only output video and pictures. As said above, there are dev's working on full hdmi output, but who knows when it will be available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That monitor is a standard USB DisplayLink device. No special video out needs to be on the port, you just need a device capable of operating as a USB host with the correct drivers loaded (which are open source on normal Linux and thus should be portable to Android if someone was so inclined). Thus, any phone which could be used with a USB keyboard, mouse, thumbdrive, etc. can support that monitor.
That said, I've looked a few times and do not believe the Evo has USB-OTG support and it certainly does not have a standard host port, so we may be SOL there. N1 users can do it for sure, I'm pretty sure I've seen it used with an Ubuntu install, creating a kind of hacker's version of the Altrix around a year earlier.
Alternatively, it's not the fasted method, but there are a couple of software solutions that basically let you VNC to your EVO from the PC. androidscreencast is one (google that phrase, can't post links yet) but it seems as though it's stalled out. I think that Droid Commander (or something like that) also has a screen casting option. This way you don't have to worry about touch screen drivers etc.
greg.dassing said:
Ok, so after changing some search terms, I was able to find something similar: Mimo USB Monitor. The entire monitor (power, video feed, and touchscreen interface) is though one USB connection. I came across this XDA thread that pretty much explains how it could possibly work: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=898418 Has anybody done any research on this or know anybody that has or is currently working on something like this??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder how a cheap chinese tablet with a usb host would work.
I've considered just installed a cheapo tablet in my car then go out to rca's or a bluetooth transmitter. My line of thought on is most headunits/music is only stereo(2 channel), so you wouldn't lose anything there. The two big problems I forsee would be a reduction in the the output quality using 3.5 to rca and finding one with a fm radio thats worth a damn.
Well if you really wanted to go a tablet route. there is the smartq v5 you can pickup for around 250. it has full hdmi out usb host bluetooth and hardware video decoding (1080i hdmi video looks soo nice on a tv form it). You can download the android 2.2 firmware and run rocketplayer for allmost any video.
UPDATED WITH REVIEW:
In-depth review below, will update in a few days to cover DLNA support and revisit Miracast experience while at home (currently discussing the experience at a university)
The PTV Miracast adapter works as advertised, but isn’t perfect. Miracast functionality works like a charm, but with the same slight delay in most other adapters out there. AirPlay is listed as a feature, but don’t expect it to work. Upon opening the package, I was greeted with a matte black, rubbery dongle that was slightly larger than a USB thumb-drive. Under the cap is the HDMI plug, on the other end are two micro USB ports -- one for power and one to connect a storage drive. On one side of the USB end is a tiny button that doesn’t clearly indicate it’s purpose, but is meant to switch between Miracast connectivity and AirFun mode (see below).
Using this adapter isn’t as intuitive as I would like it to be, but it does work. When you initially plug the device into the HDMI port of the TV and USB power, you’re greeted with the AirFun screen, which is green and black. This screen displays the dongle’s IP address, a url containing the IP address and ending with “/remote,” and what network it’s connecting to. When no network is available, it turns itself into it’s own wireless network to allow you to connect. Visiting http://ipaddress/remote takes you to a web-based remote for the dongle to set it up and control the DLNA features of the device. When connecting to this address from an Android device, it prompts you to download the app for this same control. The app is called AirFun and CORRECTION: is in the Play Store - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.realtek.airfun.client. The app appears to be stored on the dongle itself also. Don't worry much about this app after you've adjusted the settings to your liking. Use another DLNA app for your media, MirrorOP if you wish to take advantage of that, and wait on AirPlay.
Connecting the dongle to wifi is easy, but the first step isn’t apparent. You must first connect your phone or tablet to the wifi hotspot the dongle creates. At this time, you will not have an internet connection and will only be able to connect to the Miracast dongle. The next step is to go to the url containing the ip address that is displayed on your TV or use the app to connect to the device. In the settings, you can choose the wireless network you want to use and enter the password. Once this is completed, the Miracast adapter will disconnect it’s own hotspot, disconnect your phone or tablet from the device, and connect to the wireless network you chose. At this point, you should connect to the same wireless network in order to pair with the device again.
I must share a mistake I had made in hopes of those reading this can learn from it. Do not, under any circumstances, connect to an open wireless network in which you need to visit a web browser to sign in or click and accept button. The Miracast adapter can’t choose to accept a license or enter login information. I did this at the university I work for and found that I could no longer access the dongle for anything relying on wifi, including accessing the settings. I had attempted to disconnect and reconnect, reset, unplug and plug in again the device. As I had already set it to connect to the wifi that requires authentication in a browser, it automatically connected to it every time. I was forced to bring this in a location in which that wireless network was unaccessible so that I could connect directly to the device’s own hotspot and connect it to another network.
Once the wireless connection has been connected to both the PTV dongle and your phone or tablet, you can begin using MirrorOP, DLNA, or AirPlay. Please note that Miracast is connected using different steps which I will discuss later. No wireless connection is needed for Miracast and if this is the sole purpose of using this device, you can ignore the steps above and continue to the section specifically about Miracast. After connecting to wifi, I tested MirrorOP and found that connecting to this worked without issue. The screen mirrored as any other MirrorOP connection does. MirrorOP is an AirPlay-like connection except that it requires a rooted Android device or jailbroken iOS device to connect. It mirrors the screen like AirPlay to a device on the same wireless network. The MirrorOP app needs to be installed on your device to make the connection. Though screen mirroring works, MirrorOP does not support audio mirroring -- the audio will continue to play through your phone or tablet.
Connecting to AirPlay was very disappointing. I attempted to connect to AirPlay both at the university I work at and at home using an iPad on iOS7. In each attempt to connect, the iPad recognized the Miracast dongle as an AirPlay device. When selecting to connect to it, it appeared to work initially. Choosing a photo to display on the AirPlay device, however, proved nothing worked. The photo would not project to the TV. The same applied for video as well, but I have not yet tested audio. When enabling screen mirroring in the AirPlay settings, I was also disappointed by the results. The notification bar turned blue, the device appeared to be trying to connect for mirroring, then the AirPlay settings reset, turning off the connection to the dongle. No matter how many times I tried, it wouldn’t work. It may be my lack of knowledge with iOS and how to properly connect the devices, it could be an incompatibility with iOS7, or it could just be a falsely advertised feature. I don’t know the answer to this. EDITED: If I am correct in that Visiontech makes this device, their website (in a couple of posts below) indicates AirPlay is a feature still in development and will be added in a future update.
EDITED: DLNA works as expected. I did have some buffering/stuttering, but that was likely due to my new ISP which is a reduction in speed. Any DLNA/UPNP app or device will recognize this dongle and send content to it. Since DLNA plays the content locally, I haven't narrowed down which files are supported. I have not had any issue with mp4, which should be expected. In order to use DLNA, this dongle needs to be in AirFun mode, but you don't need to use the AirFun app to use it. This app just gives basic functionality and allows you to setup the dongle.
The most important feature in which I purchased this for is the Miracast functionality. I tested this in two different environments and found two different user experiences. I tested this at the university I work for and at home (which I am still testing more at home and will update this with more information later). Before you can connect to Miracast, you must press the button on the side of the dongle twice to switch to the wireless HDMI mode. At the university, the experience was such that I don’t feel it would be beneficial for the classroom. Connecting took several attempts before it was successful. Upon a successful connection, most of the time my device’s wireless connection was disconnected and reverted to cellular data. The screen mirroring worked as it should, however with a fraction of a second in latency. Audio transmitted to the TV flawlessly as well. At times, especially during heavy activity, the TV would fall further behind than initial connection and the picture would display large groups of poorly rendered blocks. This was further exaggerated when I reconnected to wifi for some reason. It may be due to the large number of wireless devices on a college campus causing interference that caused these issues, but I don’t know enough about networking to make an educated guess to this. I did notice turning the HTC One’s Power Saver mode off improved the experience, but only slightly.
EDITED: At home, I get mixed results. Most of the time, it works flawlessly via Miracast. There are times that the picture lags behind and when it starts to, it can be tens of seconds behind. It eventually catches up, especially if you stop your activity to allow it to catch up. With that said, I streamed a few movies from Plex to my HTC One which was Miracasting to the PTV dongle. I did not see any moments in any attempt in which the mirroring had fallen out of sync with my phone. I did, however, find a few movies that would not play sound over Miracast. I am not sure if this is due to bandwidth, licensing/authentication/DRM, or something else entirely. I need to investigate the files more in depth to determine if it's the stream. I tried to play a game with this, but I honestly found myself looking at my phone more than the TV to see where I was touching on screen. I didn't notice any delay here either, but I wasn't playing a complex game either. I ought to try this using a game controller and see how it performs this way. I also discovered that Google Play Music and Google Play Movies & TV are blocked over Miracast. They will not play, even locally stored music tracks. Play Movies tells me this feature is not supported, while Play Music will either display "Cannot play track" or disconnect the Miracast connection completely. Upon contacting Google with regard to this, they responded indicating that this is normal behavior and suggested I buy a Chromecast. I shouldn't have to buy another product to use Google services that already work on my device.
Being a Sprint customer and experiencing network issues regularly on their cellular data, I have installed an app that floats network download and upload speeds on my screen so that I can determine if anything isn’t working due to my internet connection. I noticed that while connected through Miracast, my upload speeds were incredibly high. This is what I would expect from a Miracast connection considering 1080p video encoded as h.264 mp4 video and up to 5.1 surround sound audio is being sent from my phone to the dongle over wifi direct. For anyone curious about the network activity, my upload speeds floated between 7-9 Mbps while connected to Miracast. Download speeds remained normal for the activity I was performing.
I also wanted to note that the PTV Miracast adapter gets about as hot as the HTC One can during high activity. It can be uncomfortable to touch. The included manual warns about this and promises that it will not affect performance. I am still concerned of the heat, despite the manual’s acknowledgement of this issue. Hopefully the heat doesn’t affect this device’s lifespan. I hope that this in-depth review has been helpful to all those who have read it. I would recommend this product to others, but I would warn others of the shortcomings this dongle has as well. The $50 I paid for this was a fair price considering the average price for Miracast today. Others at the same or higher price don’t offer MirrorOP or AirPlay -- I’m hoping a firmware update down the road fixes the AirPlay problems.
Tested with:
MirrorOP - Nexus 7 (2012) on Android 4.3
AirPlay - iPad 2 (two different iPads) running iOS7
Miracast - HTC One on Android 4.3 Sense 5
Full HD 1080P WiFi Display Dongle HDMI Wireless PTV Support DLNA / Miracast
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESUPKE4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just received this dongle. Haven't had time to play with it yet, but will very very soon. I did manage to test whether or not the HTC One would connect and on 4.3 Sense 5, it connects and detects it. It's not as intuitive as I would hope, but I'll elaborate later. iPad connectivity via AirPlay will be tested soon too.
gk1984 said:
I just received this dongle. Haven't had time to play with it yet, but will very very soon. I did manage to test whether or not the HTC One would connect and on 4.3 Sense 5, it connects and detects it. It's not as intuitive as I would hope, but I'll elaborate later. iPad connectivity via AirPlay will be tested soon too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please let us know how it works.
thanks
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Well, I plan on writing an in depth review later and putting I on the Amazon page too. But some initial thoughts:
So far, miracast works great! WiFi turns off while connecting. Not sure if this is normal or not. Performance is also worse with wifi on, in fact it can be very unusable with wifi on. But this was tested at work so far, home wifi might be a different experience.
If you plan to use any of the other features, I don't recommend setting it up on a wifi that needs to be authenticated - as in if you need to open a website, get a splash screen, and either sign in or accept a license agreement. This is not possible to do on this device and it locked me out of the dongle because it was connected to this kind of network and I had no way to change it.
You download the app to control this device directly from the dongle via ip address. You use the app for everything besides miracast - Dlna, configuration, etc.
I'll update op with full, in depth review after I spend some time with it.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
EDIT: testing at home not disconnect of wifi upon connection. iPad on iOS 7 will see the dongle as an airplay device, but can't connect to it for mirroring, not sure what else to do with it. More testing to come.
Another note for everyone before I write my in-depth review... Airplay doesn't work. The iPad will see the dongle as an Airplay device, but won't connect to it. Tried screen mirroring and just picture sharing, neither worked. Could be something to do with iOS 7 or something.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
Updated OP with in-depth review. Need to revisit two sections after I play with it some more. Will update in a few days.
Not having much success at home either. It works for a little bit, then has problems like I experienced at the university. Still planning to update with more info. But I think I found the company that makes this - the vendor has left this information out and the packaging doesn't include this info either. The specs, description, features, and pictures are all identical.
http://www.vissontech.com/products_detail2/&productId=16a67a7b-4b2c-46f6-8a28-c825a361bdd5&comp_stats=comp-FrontProducts_list01-1337323367416.html
In case anyone wants to investigate further.
Wow! this review is very helpful man. thanks for this review. Now I think I want one :cyclops:
gk1984 said:
Not having much success at home either. It works for a little bit, then has problems like I experienced at the university. Still planning to update with more info. But I think I found the company that makes this - the vendor has left this information out and the packaging doesn't include this info either. The specs, description, features, and pictures are all identical.
http://www.vissontech.com/products_...=comp-FrontProducts_list01-1337323367416.html
In case anyone wants to investigate further.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Shop around though, I think if it supported 5ghz wifi like miracast is supposed to, this would have been a better experience. I just recently discovered that.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
HI,
2 weeks ago I got this unit http://www.win-star.com/eshop/goods.php?id=159
I choice it because of the integrated LAN, and simplified functionality (no android, no need to play with air mouse).
It prove to need it own mouse to switch between different modes, as there no any button on unit itself(only hidden reset)
During first star the Unit create own wifi network so I connect to it my samsung galaxy s4 active. However I was unable to test miracast mode not connect.
Then I switch to "bridge to wireless" trying to connect WS-AV601D1 to my existing network but unsuccessfully. I switch back manually to "AP only" mode, however since then I can not see any more networks from the device itself nor to access WIFI settings(its gray/unaccessible). I can not see anymore the open WiFi network that the device should make. I reset it several times to default settings but it going to "Bridge to WiFi" mode instead of "AP only". WiFi light not switching on at all, and wifi module is unaccessible. WiFi module fail about 10 min after first start.
Note that the unit support only WEP encryption, and have no settings for connection to not broadcasted /hidden SSID. So practically I could not connect it WiFi to my existing network even if it works(unless broadcast SSID and change to WEP)!!!
Further I could test only airplay(android airfun appk) from my s4 active and notebook, and screen mirroring from my notebook only(having the device connected to my network via LAN cable). Using the software provided.
Most important for me was the 1080p video played from notebook to TV quality. So the quality was bad, looks like xvid 700MB rip(or more like x264, baseline, ultra fast, 1000bit/s encoding). Dont understand me wrong quality was fair for animation movies of my son, despite of HDMI playback of same video you can not see each hear and dimple of actors face). There was some sound distortion too, however i dint paly with sound settings of the unit. Upload speed during playback was 2-3mbit, while normal speed within my network is 6-7mbit. Note that the Unit is LAN connected to my Asus RT-N66U.
I already send my back to China and waiting for refund.
So I could not test miracast! Does it provide better video quality when mirroring 1080p video What unit you could recommend
I purchased the iview Mira Cast dongle and it pretty much works the same. I did notice a slight lag in playing videos and sometimes it falls behind. The dlna feature works really well but with no remote you have to push everything from the One or browsing your dlna server with another app. I use skifta.
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HTC ONE (Stock so far) Just got 2013-04-21
Samsung Captivate Glide
Installed:
CWMR5x_i927_recovery.tar.md5
ICS 4.0.4 LiteRom 0.9.0
LiteKernel
dudejb said:
I purchased the iview Mira Cast dongle and it pretty much works the same. I did notice a slight lag in playing videos and sometimes it falls behind. The dlna feature works really well but with no remote you have to push everything from the One or browsing your dlna server with another app. I use skifta.
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HTC ONE (Stock so far) Just got 2013-04-21
Samsung Captivate Glide
Installed:
CWMR5x_i927_recovery.tar.md5
ICS 4.0.4 LiteRom 0.9.0
LiteKernel
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I brought the ezcast and found playback at 1080p theres a lot of delay at times on gaming and streaming on nvidia shield but with the htc one it wasn't to bad
I tried looking up this device on xda, but nothing yet, so i thought i'd post here first.
since it uses an audio jack, do you guys think you could plug this into your cars aux port, and stream using your phone? or is it dependent on wifi only?
It is wifi, not bluetooth. Might work in guest mode. I'm very interested in the device, but want to use if for DLNA streaming from my home server if at all possible.
Hi,
It also has dual output connector: analog 3.5 jack and optical spdif... equal to Apple Airport Express.
Anybody see if it has native FLAC support? I haven't found an answer to that yet. This may be a device I just have to buy and try...
Note10.1Dude said:
Anybody see if it has native FLAC support? I haven't found an answer to that yet. This may be a device I just have to buy and try...
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Yeah I'm still waiting for an answer as to if it supports 320kbps for high quality streaming from spotify. That would be the main advantage of it over a bluetooth receiver.
I'd love to know if it does support that if anyone can find out!
FLAC is listed as supported media for google cast, so it SHOULD work.
https://developers.google.com/cast/docs/media
does anybody have any idea if Chromecast Audio would work as a car audio solution? I tried using a 1st Gen Chromecast but ran into the issue of the device's requiring an actual internet connection (not simply a wifi connection). My guess is that Chromecast Audio will similarly require an internet connection, but am wondering if there is a workaround?
mcnoggin said:
does anybody have any idea if Chromecast Audio would work as a car audio solution? I tried using a 1st Gen Chromecast but ran into the issue of the device's requiring an actual internet connection (not simply a wifi connection). My guess is that Chromecast Audio will similarly require an internet connection, but am wondering if there is a workaround?
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A lot of talk, no conclusion about this yet. Some suggest tethering the phone should work. I've got one on order, should know next week.
cool, let us know! =]
I am working on getting mine to work in my car today. I bought it yesterday and didn't have much time to mess with it. I had it working as I tethered through my phone and using my gfs phone to play music but I'm going to see if I can get it to work without tether.
Got it working but not perfect
So the main thing is IT WORKS!!
Its just buggy getting it started but after that it plays fine for the whole ride. Here is what I did (notice: must have working tether on your phone to get it to work)
I am running a nexus 6 with Chroma ROM. Also I'm using Spotify to play my music.
Steps I did to try to get it working.
1. I first went through the setup process on my gf galaxy s5 and updated the chromecast through my tether.
2. I hooked everything up in my car.
3. Turned on my phones WiFi and press the button on the Chromecast first and then connect to the WiFi that my Chromecast gives out.
4. Then open the Chromecast app and make sure it sees it. (Mine still says it needs to be setup even though it already is. Don't worry about that)
5. Open Spotify and in the devices area it should say nearby cast or something like that. Try to connect and it will ask for a pin. Ignore that and hit cancel.
6. Then turn on your hotspot on your phone. It will then show your Chromecast name correctly in Spotify and you can connect and play music. (Must leave your tether on)
All in all I got it working without having a separate wireless connection to connect both of them and have audio playing through my car audio. I tried it twice now and it has worked.
Also the Chromecast app will not show its connected even though you're playing music through it. I have a screenshot of it at the bottom.
Nice - I have a ground-loop issue in my car and can't charge my phone the same time it is plugged into the stereo - this might solve that. I'm using mine to add streaming to a bedroom system, but if I like it, I may replace the streamer box on the home stereo, which cuts out on FLAC from time to time.
UPDATE: you do not have to go through all those steps everytime. I've tested further and found that it is much easier.
After you already have it setup in your car, to connect do these steps:
1. Turn on your phones WiFi and connect to your Chromecast audio.
2.After a few seconds turn your hotspot on(do not turn off the WiFi at any time).
3. After a few seconds Spotify will see your device and work perfectly.
OK,
I have had my Chromecast Audio working for the last day. I am using it with BubbleUpNP to stream audio of of my DLNA server on my home network. Working well, more reliable than the Soundmate that I was using. Going to order a micro-toslink SPDIF cable to use my on DAC. It isn't a DLNA renderer, so it won't work with software that is expecting UPNP/DLNA, but BubbleUpNP is working well.
I got one of these today, and the Hardware is really nice. It has a decent DAC, good WiFi, Dual (Analogue, Optical) output, so all good on that front. It also plays 24bit 192K FLAC from Qobuz without trouble. You should however make sure to turn the "High Dynamic Range" setting on in the CC app!
However, I don't like the way it's handled. I'm used to running Logitech Media Server with am Odroid U3 as Server and a couple of Raspberry Pi units with Hifiberry DAC/Digi/Amp addon boards, and with that setup starting music in the mornings is easy. I turn on the power, and that's it, after the Pi has booted, the music starts playing, choosing the last Playlist or Webradio Station I used when I turned it off. No need to even touch my phone.
With Chromecast I have to jump through a lot of hoops to actually get it playing any music, and that's it's biggest failure IMHO. It won't automatically reconnect, it won't resume playing where it left off, it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
This is a huge waste of potential! Sadly, I cannot use this neat piece of Hardware with Logitech Media Server, because it doesn't work as a DLNA Renderer, and LMS can't cast to Chromecast (since that only works from Android/iOS/Chrome OS).
So, while this COULD be great, it's currently badly underachieving. Maybe someone will work out a way to fix this by rooting CC and installing Squeezelite on it, of by some other means. There is always hope!
CommanderROR said:
I got one of these today, and the Hardware is really nice. It has a decent DAC, good WiFi, Dual (Analogue, Optical) output, so all good on that front. It also plays 24bit 192K FLAC from Qobuz without trouble. You should however make sure to turn the "High Dynamic Range" setting on in the CC app!
However, I don't like the way it's handled. I'm used to running Logitech Media Server with am Odroid U3 as Server and a couple of Raspberry Pi units with Hifiberry DAC/Digi/Amp addon boards, and with that setup starting music in the mornings is easy. I turn on the power, and that's it, after the Pi has booted, the music starts playing, choosing the last Playlist or Webradio Station I used when I turned it off. No need to even touch my phone.
With Chromecast I have to jump through a lot of hoops to actually get it playing any music, and that's it's biggest failure IMHO. It won't automatically reconnect, it won't resume playing where it left off, it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
This is a huge waste of potential! Sadly, I cannot use this neat piece of Hardware with Logitech Media Server, because it doesn't work as a DLNA Renderer, and LMS can't cast to Chromecast (since that only works from Android/iOS/Chrome OS).
So, while this COULD be great, it's currently badly underachieving. Maybe someone will work out a way to fix this by rooting CC and installing Squeezelite on it, of by some other means. There is always hope!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use it with your DLNA server, but you need to manage the Chromecast with BubbleUpNP on your phone. Not perfect, but more stable than the renderer that I was using.
I got mine yesterday and I must say that I am very happy with it. One thing though, when I play music via YouTube (via casting screen/audio in the CC app) the sound volume is really low. It is much higher when I play music via Spotify. Is there a way to boost the output from the phone? I tried the hardware buttons of course
Workaround for the Volume being too low: Use a cast-native app like Spotify to crank up the Volume.
CommanderROR said:
it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
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Yes, I see your point, but IMHO it's more than just a WiFi equivalent of a BT adaptor because, whilst you CAN stream from your device/locally with the right app, most "standard/consumer" use cases have the Chromecast streaming content direct from the Internet which is controlled by the app in your device. Your device doesn't do the streaming, saving power, you don't have to stay in range, etc. If I start steaming using Spotify as the app, for example, the Chromecast will continue playing my playlist even if I close Spotify on my device.
True. However, it still lacks a lot of features other multiroom systems offer. This little dingle has loads of potential, but Google will have to work hard to make it shine...
I have a 1st generation XBox that only has an Ethernet port. Is there a way to connect it to the Fire TV to get it access to my network through WiFi?
When Ethernet port is plugged in it disables wifi connectivity. after that a bunch more work making wifi the default gateway with routing... if it is possible. . prolly worth your time to just spend the $30 on an adapter for it or install dd-wrt on an old router you have laying around. . I had a similar request where I wanted to know if my firetv can double as a coffee maker but no-one has solved where to put the k-cup.
Its not so much the device in this case that is unfit for the purpose (well - unless it is, as described above.. ) - it is, that the minds that are interested in and forming around solving those problems are working on much better (reputation) and wider known projects - AND the devices they support cost anywhere from 10-30 bucks used already. So dont tell them why you bought a Fire TV instead.
I know that current "technophiles" see the world as app based solutions that will come to them if they ask around often enough - but really, we already are at the minimal knowledge and minimal cost stage - and they are in essence complaining about convenience.
I have a problem - and see the solution in this one ethernet port another device I bought already has. Let the internet work out the rest, I am waiting for my app - its already rooted, how hard could it be.
And thats not how this works.
First of - why should they be working on an app based solution? A functionality layer if you will - if they dont have control over the entire ecosystem and networking, I heard has something to do with security. Sometimes. And with devices that have to work longterm - quite unlike the little plastic box that currently sits under your TV. And that today is rooted but tomorrow might not be - because, well its not yours to decide. Entirely.
dd-wrt and openwrt are what you are looking for - but that was already mentioned by the person posting before me.
I'm just here to explain why the "asking for a service" mindset ultimately breaks, when it comes to open source movements. Especially when your demands get more and more specific. ("I have bought a...")
I can say all this, because I currently use ddwrt to service some of my needs and it works perfectly well, creating all kinds of synergies I actually actively use - many of which actually are real enablers for owners of Android based Kodi boxes.
Well - then again, it might actually work already... (Turn off WLAN in the gui, then enable it via the shell (maybe that way both can be set active at the same time) and start configuring iptables).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=444004
But understand that this would be very much a hack. So usability, interfaces, security concerns are not on the forefront of peoples minds. Also - have fun configuring ports that way (ftp mostly I suppose.. ) - if you dont want everything to be open.
Google and 2 minutes - btw.
When you read through the thread you start to recognize - that what you are actually looking for is implementation and support (Hence dd-wrt or openwrt). Also - it becomes very clear why this probably never will become an app (needs root, needs to install a new library (think of stuff only busybox does as a core function on android - this has to be vetted not to cause unexpected problems), still only circumvents Androids core functions (either ethernet OR wlan), isnt fully featured, and most of all - most technically inclined people who actually need the functionality simply buy into the dd-wrt or openwrt ecosystem and its all there already).
So to break it down to a few sentences - if you get a person willing to establish a very specific function for his/her own purpose against prior design on an open source OS, you are golden. But, you wont get them by randomly asking around for help on an internet forum. And dont expect to get entire featuresets or usability options alongside it. If you want those - and you do - go with the communities that are known for solving those problems and buy into the devices/ecosystems they use. 10-30 USD should be well worth it.
But if you are in a hacking state of mind - go for it and make those devices work like you want them to.
Hello all! I would like to ask you guys for some help. I just bought mentioned projector (see subject), and it seems its running some android tv system. I would like to get the latest system possible but i fail to get anything...it seems that projector is no longer supported and i cant find anything literally in the internet. I even wrote to brookstone company but they are not knowing anything either...
Things i was able to find is that current compilation number/build is:
KOT49H.20170626_163421_V1.1.3
I tried to tap multiple times multiple options in the projector to get into developper mode - no effect. Update through system fails as it cant connect to the server (i guess its off due to no further support).
The only thing i managed to find is that its the same projector as ioChow i04 and similar to miroir m220. Unfortunately for these two i also fail to get any info...
Is there anyway to "read" projectors spec through any app, or programme from PC perspective?
I also can disassemble the whole projector to check chip or whatever is on motherboard if this would help anyhow.
In general it works greats connecting with HDMi but i also would like to try make it work as standalone (if possible).
Any suggestions or help you can offer - i would appreciate!! . Thank you!
Hey! I just dug up my projector and decided to do some research on it and found your thread through google.
Unfortunately, I do not think you can do anything further than what is on the projector itself. The build of android used is naturally stripped down, and I don't think its possible to "push it" past it's limits (at least on the software side of things ). But who knows? Maybe someday we'll see someone smarter than me exploit some vulnerability, for now I can only hope.
Sorry that this reply wasn't very helpful. I just mainly wanted to let you know that you aren't the only one wanting to get the most out of this thing