Hi,
I have an issue with a FireTV Box. We bought it pre-rooted at the beginning of the year but didn't get on with it all that well.
We have since factory reset it, which in turn got rid of Kodi & now the box just appears to be as if we purchased it directly from Amazon.
Just recently the box doesn't appear to boot up. When I apply power to it, it switches on, the TV briefly (for about 3 seconds) displays the white Amazon logo and then everything disappears. Just a blank screen.
The screen is still receiving a signal from the box as it doesn't enter sleep mode etc. The box also appears to have booted (not sure what into) but i can see it/ping it over the network.
I have tried a factory reset (at least i think i have - right button & back button for 10 seconds) but without visual confirmation on-screen its hard to tell. Not sure if this combination of button presses actually initiates a reset, or it simply brings up the factory reset dialogue box whereby I would need a screen to confirm that option. I have also tried the button combination to switch between screen resolutions - this did do something in that the TV detected the resolution change, but through each change there was still only a blank screen - when i say blank, i mean black. Nothing at all displayed.
It appears I can't do anything with it. I have tried plugging it in to different TV's around the house, and using different HDMI cables.
I have searched and read many posts, but I'm unable to find something/someone who's had the same issues as me.
Hope someone can help!
Thanks in advance.
mrmcmint said:
Hi,
I have an issue with a FireTV Box. We bought it pre-rooted at the beginning of the year but didn't get on with it all that well.
We have since factory reset it, which in turn got rid of Kodi & now the box just appears to be as if we purchased it directly from Amazon.
A
Just recently the box doesn't appear to boot up. When I apply power to it, it switches on, the TV briefly (for about 3 seconds) displays the white Amazon logo and then everything disappears. Just a blank screen.
The screen is still receiving a signal from the box as it doesn't enter sleep mode etc. The box also appears to have booted (not sure what into) but i can see it/ping it over the network.
I have tried a factory reset (at least i think i have - right button & back button for 10 seconds) but without visual confirmation on-screen its hard to tell. Not sure if this combination of button presses actually initiates a reset, or it simply brings up the factory reset dialogue box whereby I would need a screen to confirm that option. I have also tried the button combination to switch between screen resolutions - this did do something in that the TV detected the resolution change, but through each change there was still only a blank screen - when i say blank, i mean black. Nothing at all displayed.
It appears I can't do anything with it. I have tried plugging it in to different TV's around the house, and using different HDMI cables.
I have searched and read many posts, but I'm unable to find something/someone who's had the same issues as me.
Hope someone can help!
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried pressing up and rewind at the same time on the remote and holding it for 5 seconds?
Try that (Hold it for 8 seconds t9 make sure)
This will cycle through resolutions incase your on an unsupported resolution.
sconnyuk said:
Have you tried pressing up and rewind at the same time on the remote and holding it for 5 seconds?
Try that (Hold it for 8 seconds t9 make sure)
This will cycle through resolutions incase your on an unsupported resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have tried that, I think i mentioned that in original post but probably didn't make myself clear. When i tried that, i could see the TV changing something on-screen (ie a message appeared telling me what the screen resolution was) but this message was generated by my TV, not the AFTV device. The screen remained blank the whole time. At no point did anything appear on the TV generated by the AFTV box.
I'm at a loss with this now.
To summarise:
Blank screen after white Amazon logo (I can see approx the first 3 seconds of boot process on-screen)
I can't factory reset as i cant see the option on the screen
I have tried plugging device into different TV's
Tried different HDMI cables
Tried button combination to change screen resolution
All TV's that i plug the AFTV box into first display the resolution of 1920*1080 60 for the first 3 seconds of boot, switches to 480 thereafter which is when screen goes blank
mrmcmint said:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have tried that, I think i mentioned that in original post but probably didn't make myself clear. When i tried that, i could see the TV changing something on-screen (ie a message appeared telling me what the screen resolution was) but this message was generated by my TV, not the AFTV device. The screen remained blank the whole time. At no point did anything appear on the TV generated by the AFTV box.
I'm at a loss with this now.
To summarise:
Blank screen after white Amazon logo (I can see approx the first 3 seconds of boot process on-screen)
I can't factory reset as i cant see the option on the screen
I have tried plugging device into different TV's
Tried different HDMI cables
Tried button combination to change screen resolution
All TV's that i plug the AFTV box into first display the resolution of 1920*1080 60 for the first 3 seconds of boot, switches to 480 thereafter which is when screen goes blank
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it fire tv 1 or 2?
Honestly not sure, it's the one without an optical connection if that makes any difference.
Thanks
mrmcmint said:
Honestly not sure, it's the one without an optical connection if that makes any difference.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it the fire tv 2 box.
Can you tell me what firmware version it was on before the trouble started?
If it is not on the very latest, you always have the option of using an A-A usb lead and recovering it, the guide is on here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/development/firetv-2-unbrick-image-t3313349
sconnyuk said:
So it the fire tv 2 box.
Can you tell me what firmware version it was on before the trouble started?
If it is not on the very latest, you always have the option of using an A-A usb lead and recovering it, the guide is on here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/development/firetv-2-unbrick-image-t3313349
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Thanks for this, i'll have a read.
I have no idea what version of fw it was on, I really never messed with it other than the factory reset.
If there's any way i can find that out, i'll post it on here.
Thanks again
Write it off.
Its only so fun to support people that bought prefab boxes because they had the label "free stuff" on it, then don't know what they bought, or what firmware they were on.
Long story short - if you are on an older firmware - you might be able to recover, using the USB A to A (male to male) cable brick recovery method.
If you are on a newer firmware - this is not an option (didn't doublecheck it, but I'm quite sure).
Also - none of this may be possible, or fix your issue - depending on the cause of the issue. I had mine give out on the second day of using it - with the same error profile. I had a custom recovery on there by theat point - I could reflash the stock rom successfully - same error profile. Wiped TWRP and took the box back (of course I didn't pay shady thirdparties for the privilege of "free stuff").
Other people have reported, that taking the box off power for a view hours "magically cured" an issue like this in some cases - I'd be sceptical it does, but you can try it.
If the animated (colorful) Amazon boot logo doesnt show up, the OS isn't even booting - so something is messed up on the HW or the partition level, or on the file system level. Hard to diagnose, hard to fix remotely. The only way you "might" be able to "talk to the device" is the USB A to A (male to male) unbrick method - try that if you want to. You'll find the tutorial on XDA.
harlekinwashere said:
Write it off.
Its only so fun to support people that bought prefab boxes because they had the label "free stuff" on it, then don't know what they bought, or what firmware they were on.
Long story short - if you are on an older firmware - you might be able to recover, using the USB A to A (male to male) cable brick recovery method.
If you are on a newer firmware - this is not an option (didn't doublecheck it, but I'm quite sure).
Also - none of this may be possible, or fix your issue - depending on the cause of the issue. I had mine give out on the second day of using it - with the same error profile. I had a custom recovery on there by theat point - I could reflash the stock rom successfully - same error profile. Wiped TWRP and took the box back (of course I didn't pay shady thirdparties for the privilege of "free stuff").
Other people have reported, that taking the box off power for a view hours "magically cured" an issue like this in some cases - I'd be sceptical it does, but you can try it.
If the animated (colorful) Amazon boot logo doesnt show up, the OS isn't even booting - so something is messed up on the HW or the partition level, or on the file system level. Hard to diagnose, hard to fix remotely. The only way you "might" be able to "talk to the device" is the USB A to A (male to male) unbrick method - try that if you want to. You'll find the tutorial on XDA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, understand all your points. This is merely a last-ditched attempt at some sort of success before it gets thrown out. I wouldn't have bought it in the first place - wife found it on a popular social networking site and had bought it before i had any input. Agreed about the 'shady' nature of the device - who knows what is on here. If i could completely wipe the device and make it so it was like we had bought it directly from Amazon, I would. If i wanted something similar, I would have built it on a raspberry pi probably, but more for fun and learning curve than anything else. That said, I do understand why people would want to root their own AFTV devices and play with them - they have more control this way, and I quite like the hardware.
You mention the colourful Amazon boot logo - this never appears. But... It must be booting into *something* as i can ping the device on my network. It's almost like it has fully booted and is ready for action, just that the 'graphics chip' or drivers die and it fails to display anything on the screen. Another reason I suspect it has successfully booted into *something* is because the button combinations work to scroll through the screen resolutions. Whether it needs to have booted fully to enable that feature, I don't know.
I'll have a go at the above guide when i'm home and see what happens - at this point there is absolutely nothing to lose - only time.
At least you are open about it and willing to learn. Have to give you props for that.
The issue with "give us money for free, casual" (last posting about this) is that you dont get support with it. Usually. ("I found it on facebook - it told me it would give me free for only 99.99...") So what happend to this community initially is that it got the "frenzy fun - bought for simple and free and it worked yesterday" crowd during the entire popularity peak of this device.
The Kodi community lost Android maintainers to the "i think we can make money here as well" pull and resulting internal conflict (and thats fair, but...), had to push through a public statement about its zero tolerance policy on piracy addon support, because they were swamped (30 postings a day - with people that never read anything but the tagline sold to them by shady thirdparties) with people looking up "Kodi" and then going on to solicit "help requests" from a dev community "facebook style ("my girlfriends old mother, ...")".
Reddit was full with bad advice, some of which was popularized by bloggers that saw it as a commercial opportunity (mostly talking about the youtuber scene, but not exclusively).
Kodi was removed from the Amazon Appstore on grounds of "public perception" (thanks "free and easy for a onetime payment of 99.99 crowd") alone - Amazon was allowed to start heavily overreaching and deciding what apps people would be allowed to use on the device (almost no one even had an issue with anything they did (ruined the basis of existence for the homebrew scene (if you are an app developer - how about you submit the app to our store?), by stripping out basics that we needed (which is why you probably won't be able to recover the device - even if it is recoverable ("is it running recent Amazon software"?)) - people just were afraid to loose free and as a result complacent to the actions that took place - people shushed you if you had nothing but cursewords for Amazon actively destroying the ecosystem - because as long as they left piracy working - "maybe it wasnt that bad") and what apps would have to be disabled (the ones that reduced their advertising effectiveness) - and the most popular people at that time were the bloggers that decided, that the crowd should enjoy "easy and free" (as in advertisment supported, as far as they were concerned), all the way until Amazon switched the rails and led them just as "easy and free" back into the subscription model again. Bloggers and all.
The subscription model needs channel exclusivity (or backroom deals) and heavy DRM safe guards, so If thats what people wanted all along, why did they cosy up with the hacking scene? (Which is strongly linked to consumer and device rights ideals, the open source ethos, ....) Those are two basically contrary vantage points.
You factory reset your Fire TV, right? It was easier that way - right? Using Plex - also, very easy. Its right there on the frontpage. Just sign into your account, pay the monthly fee...
So two lessons
- Never underestimate a crowd pulled by the sentiment of "free" to be able to ruin a community and leave only ashes.
- If they get pulled back into a subscription model again - let them. They want easy - they don't know how. They pay 10 USD a month and they get someone to talk to them for that, on the other end of a phone line.
But why should the hacking community ever provide product support essentially "for Amazon?" We arent responsible if a device becomes defect on its own. We arent the ones that told you to buy from a shady source that eliminated the warranty and "gesture of good will" exchange options. We are just the ones the "free and easy crowd" would never pay 50 bucks an hour (or more), because it probably would turn out to be more than they paid for the entire set up device (automated) in the fist place. The one that was supposed to give them free.
So this becomes a charity. (If people are in it to learn, it becomes a learning environment.. - but everyone just wanted easy - so...)
And what do you do with charities as a majority group? You try to exploit them. In some cases. Nature of the beast I guess..
harlekinwashere said:
At least you are open about it and willing to learn. Have to give you props for that.
The issue with "give us money for free, casual" (last posting about this) is that you dont get support with it. Usually. ("I found it on facebook - it told me it would give me free for only 99.99...") So what happend to this community initially is that it got the "frenzy fun - bought for simple and free and it worked yesterday" crowd during the entire popularity peak of this device.
The Kodi community lost Android maintainers to the "i think we can make money here as well" pull and resulting internal conflict (and thats fair, but...), had to push through a public statement about its zero tolerance policy on piracy addon support, because they were swamped (30 postings a day - with people that never read anything but the tagline sold to them by shady thirdparties) with people looking up "Kodi" and then going on to solicit "help requests" from a dev community "facebook style ("my girlfriends old mother, ...")".
Reddit was full with bad advice, some of which was popularized by bloggers that saw it as a commercial opportunity (mostly talking about the youtuber scene, but not exclusively).
Kodi was removed from the Amazon Appstore on grounds of "public perception" (thanks "free and easy for a onetime payment of 99.99 crowd") alone - Amazon was allowed to start heavily overreaching and deciding what apps people would be allowed to use on the device (almost no one even had an issue with anything they did (ruined the basis of existence for the homebrew scene (if you are an app developer - how about you submit the app to our store?), by stripping out basics that we needed (which is why you probably won't be able to recover the device - even if it is recoverable ("is it running recent Amazon software"?)) - people just were afraid to loose free and as a result complacent to the actions that took place - people shushed you if you had nothing but cursewords for Amazon actively destroying the ecosystem - because as long as they left piracy working - "maybe it wasnt that bad") and what apps would have to be disabled (the ones that reduced their advertising effectiveness) - and the most popular people at that time were the bloggers that decided, that the crowd should enjoy "easy and free" (as in advertisment supported, as far as they were concerned), all the way until Amazon switched the rails and led them just as "easy and free" back into the subscription model again. Bloggers and all.
The subscription model needs channel exclusivity (or backroom deals) and heavy DRM safe guards, so If thats what people wanted all along, why did they cosy up with the hacking scene? (Which is strongly linked to consumer and device rights ideals, the open source ethos, ....) Those are two basically contrary vantage points.
You factory reset your Fire TV, right? It was easier that way - right? Using Plex - also, very easy. Its right there on the frontpage. Just sign into your account, pay the monthly fee...
So two lessons
- Never underestimate a crowd pulled by the sentiment of "free" to be able to ruin a community and leave only ashes.
- If they get pulled back into a subscription model again - let them. They want easy - they don't know how. They pay 10 USD a month and they get someone to talk to them for that, on the other end of a phone line.
But why should the hacking community ever provide product support essentially "for Amazon?" We arent responsible if a device becomes defect on its own. We arent the ones that told you to buy from a shady source that eliminated the warranty and "gesture of good will" exchange options. We are just the ones the "free and easy crowd" would never pay 50 bucks an hour (or more), because it probably would turn out to be more than they paid for the entire set up device (automated) in the fist place. The one that was supposed to give them free.
So this becomes a charity. (If people are in it to learn, it becomes a learning environment.. - but everyone just wanted easy - so...)
And what do you do with charities as a majority group? You try to exploit them. In some cases. Nature of the beast I guess..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh i agree completely - i wouldn't have the time nor the inclination to support these DIY boxes, let alone support them remotely on a voluntary basis with someone who hasn't got a clue what they're doing at the other end. I fully appreciate that. For the record, there are no lessons learnt here for me (although for others that read this there might be) - I was already aware of this and have exactly the same opinion as you Like I said - I never would have bought it in the first place. I'm just grateful to anyone who takes the time to reply to me & others with similar issues.
I'm back home, i'll see if i can find the right cable, I know I have one somewhere from an old 2.5" HDD caddy I had lying around. If I can't bring this thing back to life & get rid of all the third party stuff, its heading for the bin. Next stop Amazon to buy a retail item with warranty & support.
Did you ever find a resolve for this? I have the same problem right now. It will work on my TV, but not through my projector (which it has now since day one 6 months ago).
If you can ping the box then try to adb connect to it. If you can connect then adb reboot it to recovery
same problem. can't connect with adb
The Problem is with the TV
i think the problem is with the TV i have two TV's this happens on my Sony TV but works well on my Other TV
my sony TV already has some problem, some devices recognize the TV some don't.
one amazon tv box fix
on my amazon tv box 3rd gen i think. my device would kinda start but then blank. i got my tv remote not fire tv remote. element tv remote i pressed menu then display and changed from user to dinamic and then movie and pc and then i was able to see my fire tv screen. problem is compatability with the tv i think.
Check cable. In My case direct Connect to projector working but when conneced to 7m hdmi cable projector showing only logo Amazon then black screen.
I have to reinstall my firmware each time this happens. Good thing for TWRP recovery!
Related
I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?
nighthawk777 said:
I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is some strange stuff...netflix errors are common but a reboot almost always fixes it. I don't know what's going on but amazon actually has great customer service so make a call and more than likely they'll either walk you through it or possibly send you a new one.
i have the same issue, it stopped working after a day. No power LED no nothing.
I was holding "select and play" in an attempt to restart the box because i encountered sluggish performance on Kodi.
Afterwhich, i am not able to turn it back on again despite changing socket points and random clicking on the remote.
While i am waiting for a new set from Amazon, is there anyone who has encountered the same issue but have managed to power up the box??
I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.
brickspeed said:
I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was reading the feedback on Amazon fire tv product page, apparently we are not the only ones.
Based on the users' feedback, seems like Amazon engineers have acknowledged that it's a known issue. SCARY.
I have the exact same thing, there is definitely a bad batch going around.
My Fire TV arrived on Monday, 2/16/15. I plugged it in and took an update as part of the setup. I installed several apps and logged in to accounts, watched about 3 hours of stuff on it that night. The next day it was dead as a door nail. No lights, no amount of button mashing on the remote made any difference. I have a replacement being sent out. The AFTV is currently out of stock, I'm curious if this is related.
I read another person complaining another site. Do we have anything resembling a common link? It seems so far this is effecting non-rooted aftvs with the latest update but not all aftvs. Are all of these units relatively new? Purchase date?
I just want to figure out if it's hardware or software related. I purchased another one after Xmas and no issues so far.
Just got mine, set it up, used it maybe for 2 hours, unplugged, connected to the TV and same thing. Dead.
Haha same thing happened to me. Got Kodi and everything installed. Unplugged the Fire TV and now it's bricked.
same happened to me.
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.
teng247 said:
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone who have gotten their replacement units, may i know if you guys encounter the same issue again?
I am still waiting for my replacement set.
I'm guessing from the symptoms mentioned that it is their recent efuse blow up related. Maybe recent update did not update bootloader for some reason. If that so then box is not booting bootloader and sits in qualcomm recovery mode in which you can hook up it with usb "male a - male a" cable to pc and have full emmc access for flashing correct bootloader.
Add me on the list for a broken 1 day use on the AFTV. I sideloaded Kodi and was using it last night. Put it in sleep mode and then went to sleep myself. Woke up this morning and no lights/repsonse or anything on the box. Contacted Amazon customer support. One for the first few questions they asked is if I had sideloaded anything. I of course denied I did such a thing in case they try to back out of warranty issues. Customer Service Representative talks to her supervisor and instead of issuing a replacement unit they are sending me a new power adapter instead. Customer service rep states that her supervisor says from their experience that is usually the issue. I tell her with my voltage tester that i am detecting current running through the line. They still insist on power adapter.
Just to see if there is commonality among the AFTVs, did you guys get your boxes during the Sling TV promotion? Maybe a bad production batch?
How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.
All,
I have rooted at least 10 boxes, none fo my family or friends have report this issues. Of course, all these AFTV has Rbox pre-rooted firmware installed so i am going to guess folks who have reported this issues are non rooted boxes running the latest Amazon firmware.
It would ideal, If users who have reported this could provide the following info, this will help to identify a patter.
1) Serial number (it generally starts with 70900xxx)
3) Purchase date
4) Box purchased from?
4) Is your box rooted? If so what is have you installed (boatloader unlock (partial or fully) CWM, prerooted rom, ect)
5) what firmware is the box running (Amazon stock or Rbox), please provide the actual firmware version.
6) Was the firmware ever updated, if so from what version to what?
6) Sideloaded app
7) how long did you use the box before it went dead.
Thank you
tylerxm84 said:
How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a "common issue" is pretty subjective. What matters is its happened to several people in a short span of time, and xda members account for a tiny percentage of aftv owners. I contacted amazon for a different issue recently and what I realized was that rep giving support has never actually used a fire TV.
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
For curiosity sake I'd like to hear what happens if they try a different power supply. Not amazon stock as that's been tried. But that might be academic, those boxes seem dead and unrecoverable. Since amazon will surely send a replacement, I'd open it up and see if there's anything noticeable. You won't find a blown efuse since that's not visible to the naked eye.
KLit75 said:
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.
Ck-NoSFeRaTU said:
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.
KLit75 said:
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had first hand experience with a blown efuse. After certain pre-rooted ROM was loaded, it was ON,After the first reboot, unit had no LED light, nothing on screen. Using A A USB cable I can see the file structures of the unit, I was able to partially recovered (lost root) afterward.
These new units show the exact symptoms, dead after first reboot.
Unit won't come back on
I have the same problem. I am on my second unit. It powered up correctly, I re-registered, and I re-selected my favorites, I watched one show. I finished and turned it off. Now, nothing! I cannot turn it back on. This was the same problem with the first unit. I've tried all the basic hardware fixes - new batteries, new HDMI, etc, but still nothing. I have followed all the basic troubleshooting suggestions from Amazon. Still nothing. Can someone please suggest the right fix?
MTC8-KLD6-V2.81
Rooted with Malaysk's latest ROM
For the past month or so, my phone (HTC M8) has flawlessly mirrored with my Head Unit. THEN came a Marshmallow update. Now my HU/phone mirroring is as follows;
1) Plug Phone into USB port.
a)bug icon shows on phone's top banner
2) Press Easy Connected on Head Unit
a) Four blue bars on HU light up as expected
b) Phone now asks if USB should be used for Screen Mirroring (can only press "Just Once", because "Always" is grayed out)
c) I have tried several different ways to deal with 2.b., but I get the same end result
3) Phone enters Drive Mode (I have also turned this off, but no different result)
4) Head Unit spins its wheels for a while, then claims to enter Screen Mirroring, but all I get is a blank screen with the "Home", "Back", "Exit" buttons on the bottom
a) Phone itself never shows on the Head Unit.
As an aside, I tried to use my phone on Chromecast last week. It look forever to play a single YouTube clip, and when I tried to play a different one, "play" and "pause" would work, but it never actually went to the next video. Pressing play on my phone would start the second video on my phone and also start the FIRST video on the tv.
Any ideas?
Thanks
I also have the same problem. I changed my Note3 on GalaxyS7 and said goodbye to ScrenMirroring I really do not like it. Autoradio should update to Android Lollipop and the problem would disappear. But if even our AndroidAutoradio live to see the renovation
NYCAR said:
MTC8-KLD6-V2.81
Rooted with Malaysk's latest ROM
For the past month or so, my phone (HTC M8) has flawlessly mirrored with my Head Unit. THEN came a Marshmallow update. Now my HU/phone mirroring is as follows;
1) Plug Phone into USB port.
a)bug icon shows on phone's top banner
2) Press Easy Connected on Head Unit
a) Four blue bars on HU light up as expected
b) Phone now asks if USB should be used for Screen Mirroring (can only press "Just Once", because "Always" is grayed out)
c) I have tried several different ways to deal with 2.b., but I get the same end result
3) Phone enters Drive Mode (I have also turned this off, but no different result)
4) Head Unit spins its wheels for a while, then claims to enter Screen Mirroring, but all I get is a blank screen with the "Home", "Back", "Exit" buttons on the bottom
a) Phone itself never shows on the Head Unit.
As an aside, I tried to use my phone on Chromecast last week. It look forever to play a single YouTube clip, and when I tried to play a different one, "play" and "pause" would work, but it never actually went to the next video. Pressing play on my phone would start the second video on my phone and also start the FIRST video on the tv.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your need updated EasyConnect app that fixes this issue. Due to android versions, here is the updated version of it
xterm305 said:
Your need updated EasyConnect app that fixes this issue. Due to android versions, here is the updated version of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly, I already purchased a new phone. But thanks for the updated app, I'll hold onto it in case my new phone gets an update.
I was looking all over for this, thanks
My new phone updated to Marshmallow last night (against my wishes and despite my efforts to stop it). Now I'm back to not working.
I'll try that updated app, but I'm not holding my breath. All my searching has revealed threads where people have said that the apk will not update and I have not found a single example of someone with Marshmallow who has Screen Mirroring working.
I am pleased to report that the above update to EasyConnected worked and I am now able to mirror my phone (Marshmallow 6.0.1) once again.
I was ok with Marshmallow on my Nexus 6P but cant to mirroring not that I upgraded to Android Nougat 7.0
Hopefully someone like xterm305 will come along again and provide a link to an updated .apk.
In the meantime, try rebooting your head unit. That has worked for me in the past when my phone wouldn't mirror (but, that was not when it updated).
Malaysk has a link to this thread that might help, DanB0Y. Please let us know.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66305928&postcount=2978
I think you need to remove an .apk from your phone and then connect it to your stereo again though the usb.
Hey everybody i have a problem with Easy connected in Honda connect by HRV and i have an error 0x11 its adb-ec not found not exist. Whats is this?
PIFS2 said:
Hey everybody i have a problem with Easy connected in Honda connect by HRV and i have an error 0x11 its adb-ec not found not exist. Whats is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Enable USB Debugging in Developer settings
Just a quick note to say to anyone thinking of buying the Nut Pro to use in Europe: It definitely works in the UK. I am on the PlusNet (EE) network, living in the UK and the 'phone works very well. I am getting 4G (when available) and had no problems getting the phone to register on the network, just put the SIM in, switched on and was connected straight away.
Almost everything on the 'phone appears to work correctly. The weather app looks lovely but struggles to locate me (it thinks I'm in a city 60+ miles away) but I can live with that. Many of the apps I transferred from my old 'phone that were then installed from the Smartisan app store didn't work correctly so I ended up deleting them and re-installing them from the Google Play Store which was very easy to install. They then worked without problems. The Smartisan browser has a home page that is full of Chinese news and/or links to Chinese web pages, which I can't seem to change, although it works well in all other respects. I have a preference for Opera on my 'phone so I use this in preference to the Smartisan installed one meaning this isn't a problem anyway.
Everything else? It all works really. I haven't found anything that doesn't work properly that I can recall. The music player app forgets what it was playing after a Bluetooth device has been disconnected from it which means I have to open the music player to re-start the music, again not a huge issue anyway.
If you were thinking of buying the Nuts Pro I can't recommend it more. It is one of the most wonderful 'phones I've ever had. The modifications made to the Android OS make everything more beautiful to do and add so much style to the operation of the whole 'phone. This is a wonderful device, I absolutely love it. Don't let the fact that it isn't officially supported in Europe put you off. Assuming you can speak English (no other European languages are installed) you should have no problems, network support not withstanding.
What's the camera quality like... I've heard good things about it. Is it rooted?
Sorry, as you probably can tell, I don't visit often enough to respond to questions in a timely fashion.
Regarding the camera question (probably long forgotten by the poster) the quality is good. Every 'phone I get I take some comparison shots of local landmarks to compare them too.
If I was to rate it against 'phones that you might have experienced, and score them out of ten:
Blackberry Priv. 10
Huawei P9. 9
SmartisanNut Pro. 8
Sincere apologies for not responding until six months after your question, sorry.
Since the most recent update to the software (V 6.0.0.1) my 'phone battery has been draining itself overnight, from 70% or more at bedtime to 0% by breakfast.
I have been trying for two days to downgrade the software to a previous one, with little success. I've actually today ordered an inexpensive 'phone to reluctantly replace the Smartisan (I still absolutely love the 'phone). Not an hour after I placed my order, you guessed it, I finally managed the magic combination of key presses required to enter recovery mode.
In a few steps, here's how I did it:
1. Download a full copy of the Smartisan OS, I used V 4.1.0.2 as I had a copy of this saved on my iMac already. According to the (Chinese) Smartisan Forum, 3.7.9 is favoured, but I didn't have a copy of that. File size for this file is around 1.8Gb
2. Copy the downloaded .Zip file to the root drive of the Smartisan internal storage.
3. Turn off the 'phone screen by pressing and holding the 'Home' button. [Not sure if turning off the screen using the 'Home' button is important, if it is you might have to enable this option in the button shortcuts settings]
4. Press and hold: Volume+, Volume-, Power and Home. Ignore any prompts on the screen to power down. Keep all four buttons pressed in until the 'phone switches off.
5. As soon as the boot logo (Hammer icon) appears on the screen, release all buttons.
6. Use the Volume +/- buttons to select 'Update System from SD' then press the power button.
7. Use the Volume +/- buttons to navigate to the location that you saved the update file to. [This is why it is recommended to save it in the root directory of the 'phone storage]
8. Press the Power button to start the update.
The whole time to update took about 5 minutes or so, then I had to select 'Reboot'. The boot time took a little longer than normal but once rebooted all my apps were in place, almost everything worked normally, immediately.
Some of the Google apps (including the Smartisan Mail and Calendar apps which I have linked to a Google Account) failed to sync which concerned me for a while. I simply deleted my Google account from the 'phone and then set up the account again and my Email, Contacts and Calendar all returned.
I did not wipe the cache, return to factory settings or anything else as I was hoping not to have to re-install all my apps and accounts one by one again if I could help it. As the underlying "Android" OS is still V7 between the V4 and V6 Smartisan OS versions, I hoped this wouldn't be needed. Perhaps other people won't be so lucky.
I'd already ordered a replacement 'phone so if I'd bricked the Smartisan, I'd be upset, but not I wouldn't be without a 'phone.
I would suggest you back up everything important to you, before trying this downgrade as it is possible you will be left with a totally non-working 'phone.
I do still really like the 'phone. If reinstalling a previous operating system fails to cure the problem of the excessive battery consumption I shall be really sorry.
One of the previous updates to the system added a very effective Face Unlock feature. It is possible that this isn't very secure, I have no way to tell, but it works reliably (unless the light is coming from behind me) and I've not found a way of fooling using pictures, photographs or other people.
First of all thanx to mkstevo for opening this topic. I own three Nut Pro phones and they really are wonderful devices. My story is a bit more complicated so maybe it will help someone. I gave a red Nut Pro 4/64 to my girlfirend. It was updated to the latest Smartisan OS OTA (6.X). After only a few days the phone restarted by itself and displayed only Smartisan logo. If you connected it to pc, red notification blinked for a few times (never a good sign).
With my experience with flashing i sensed the phone didn't have a hardware error but it was connected with sw. And also the thought you could never actually brick Snapdragon phones to the point of no return kept me optimistic.
I could get into recovery but couldn't load a rom onto my internal storage. The sd card and OTG usb drive were not recognized (no matter how i formatted them). I could only use adb sideload which was working but the end result was always 0. SO no progress.
It is really hard to find any info or rom about this phone, but unbrick guides are virtually non existent. After hours of Google translate I found a link on a russian site to this rom which should be QFIL flashable (pass: 5pn2) After downloading it for 2 days a lot of captchas and jdownloader sessions i got the rom from baidu.
Next challenge was to put the Nut Pro into EDL (i already had a edl cable prepared). It turns out you should press volume+, volume- and edl button when starting the device and when Smartisan logo appears - you should let them all go. The device starts blinking red constantly and you have Qualcomm Qloader 9008 in the device manager.
After that i loaded the firehouse and xml files and the flashing actually proceeded to the end with success. But the phone still didn't boot up but rather went straight into Smartisan recovery. Something told me to try and "adb sideload" one last time. Not really expecting anything I took the oldest rom i could find (3.6) and sideloaded it and this time adb sideload said success and 1. And to my surprise the device booted up normally.
I do not know what caused the crash. Maybe it was an incompatibility with some app or just a bug in the latest version of Smartisan OS. After 2 weeks of use we couldn't recreate the problem. Other 2 devices are also running fine. EDL flashing obviously reached the partitions that were messed up and couldn't be repaired otherwise.
SO if you ever run into a problem, this is probably the only source you can find about this phone. And it's a great phone, a joy to use and something totally different software wise. There are newer and better Smartisans out, but this one is fairly cheap, has a great screen, great battery, solid camera and is build like nothing on the market.
p.s.
if anybody has a hard time finding roms on bbs.smartisan or on their official site, here is a collection of Nut Pro roms.
Please send link again
The link is broken, smartisan nut pro firmware
My FireTV is stuck in boot. I get a black screen with white amazon logo (no orange colours). The white light slowly flashes on the front box, and eventually my TV eventually gets a no signal response.
The device registers the remote, (every click gives the white light comes on) but I am unable to go into recovery (Right button + Back Button). Opening up ADBLink, I am able to connect to the device by IP address, and I can reboot the device remotely and I can enter reboot recovery. When I enter reboot recovery, the FireTV reboots and in red writing I get
"Your Amazon Firetv will restart in a few minutes, and show resume normal operation, If it does not restart please unplug the power cable and plug it back in to force a restart. If you need assistance please contact support at Amazon" .
However nothing happens, and when I restart I get stuck at the white amazon logo.
I have tried 3 separate keyboards and tried ALT + Print screen, or ALT + i + Print Screen, or ALT+ Home, or ALT + i + home. None of them worked.
It has the stock OS installed (Dont know which version but assume the latest update), and the only action beyond normal operation has been the sideloading of a couple of common APKs. (No rooting, bootloader it locked). As it is out of warrrenty Amazon are little help (15% discount on next FireTV purchase).
Is there anything I can do, or is my box now a paper weight ?
If you swear that it is an unmodified device, then there seems to be a hardware defect where you can't do anything anymore, e. g. the internal eMMC memory is broken!
However, your phenomenon still sounds like a brick through a failed root attempt or rom update or something similar.
rainman74 said:
If you swear that it is an unmodified device, then there seems to be a hardware defect where you can't do anything anymore, e. g. the internal eMMC memory is broken!
However, your phenomenon still sounds like a brick through a failed root attempt or rom update or something similar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply, it is completely unmodified . So you are probably right about it being a hardware fault.
I have a toddler who likes to play with everything (at times even pulled out the fire TV) so guessing she did something. As a last resort I am going to take it apart. Perhaps I will be lucky and see something obvious
abfmdf said:
Thanks for reply, it is completely unmodified . So you are probably right about it being a hardware fault.
I have a toddler who likes to play with everything (at times even pulled out the fire TV) so guessing she did something. As a last resort I am going to take it apart. Perhaps I will be lucky and see something obvious
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck to you! :fingers-crossed:
Before I will trough it away, I was wondering if there is still some chance...
So last few months my nVidia Shield TV Pro 2017 was somehow lagging - it took quite a long time to even start for example NetFlix. This issue was randomly re-appearing like 4x a month (eg. for days/two) and reboot didn't help, then it went away and repeated after 1-2 weeks etc. I'm not using it for game play at all.
I was thinking myself that maybe it's HDD issue (like dying after 4 years...) or it's CPU thermal throttling. So I disassembled it, cleaned it using pressured air, assembled back and it was working just fine (but it could have been again just temporary). I have decided to replace thermal paste on the heat-sink together with replacing SSHD by SSD (due to the different sizes, I had to use method described in another thread). And here I'm with probably hard bricked Shield.
I don't know if I hard-bricked it during heat-sink disassembly (for sure I didn't put too much thermal paste) or when trying to migrate to SSD, however :
- there is no logo when turning it on
- CPU FAN is not spinning, green LED is shining just bright (eg. never turn to lower brightness)
- I can't enter fast boot - I see it's stuck with APX mode, when connected to the PC via MicroUSB
- testing new SSD and even putting back previous SSHD, seems that it doesn't boot at all, as /cache partition - log folders, it just contains old early_boot_dmesg.txt and last_boot_dmesg.txt files
(when booting using SSHD, the hard-drive start spinning and in like 6 sec I hear noise like head get parked)
- I kept it like that for 1 hour - no change / fan not spinning / no logo / just black screen
- tested it on TV as well on another LCD
- I have checked using microscope if I damaged any SMD but I don't see any damages and it's not first time I was performing such activity
Did it die or you may have some ideas ? I don't believe it's SSD/SSHD issue but most probably some HW failure.
I was wondering, if the logo would show up eg. when you turn it on just without hard-drive connected ?
Thank you.
shaarky said:
Before I will trough it away, I was wondering if there is still some chance...
So last few months my nVidia Shield TV Pro 2017 was somehow lagging - it took quite a long time to even start for example NetFlix. This issue was randomly re-appearing like 4x a month (eg. for days/two) and reboot didn't help, then it went away and repeated after 1-2 weeks etc. I'm not using it for game play at all.
I was thinking myself that maybe it's HDD issue (like dying after 4 years...) or it's CPU thermal throttling. So I disassembled it, cleaned it using pressured air, assembled back and it was working just fine (but it could have been again just temporary). I have decided to replace thermal paste on the heat-sink together with replacing SSHD by SSD (due to the different sizes, I had to use method described in another thread). And here I'm with probably hard bricked Shield.
I don't know if I hard-bricked it during heat-sink disassembly (for sure I didn't put too much thermal paste) or when trying to migrate to SSD, however :
- there is no logo when turning it on
- CPU FAN is not spinning, green LED is shining just bright (eg. never turn to lower brightness)
- I can't enter fast boot - I see it's stuck with APX mode, when connected to the PC via MicroUSB
- testing new SSD and even putting back previous SSHD, seems that it doesn't boot at all, as /cache partition - log folders, it just contains old early_boot_dmesg.txt and last_boot_dmesg.txt files
(when booting using SSHD, the hard-drive start spinning and in like 6 sec I hear noise like head get parked)
- I kept it like that for 1 hour - no change / fan not spinning / no logo / just black screen
- tested it on TV as well on another LCD
- I have checked using microscope if I damaged any SMD but I don't see any damages and it's not first time I was performing such activity
Did it die or you may have some ideas ? I don't believe it's SSD/SSHD issue but most probably some HW failure.
I was wondering, if the logo would show up eg. when you turn it on just without hard-drive connected ?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's definitely hardware failure. I have been there done that, no coming back Nvidia says apx mode is hardware failure
@jionny and would you have any idea, what that HW failure could be ?
I'm still not able to get any answer on if nVidia Logo shows up or not when SSHD is disconnected - eg. that would possbly narrow it down to the broken ribbon cable (even it looks completely okay)
I don't have a solution for you, unfortunately. But I did want to say don't throw it out. I have one too, but the fan is going out on it and it's so loud that I have my Shield unplugged and haven't used it for I think about a year.
Point that I'm getting at is you could part it out, or sell to someone that can use parts from it. If your worried about your data, then you could just part out the other stuff, which if I remember correctly might just be the heatsink and the fan. Not sure. If you can't find a solution though, recycling is better than the landfill.
Let me know if you decide to part it out or if you want to sell it. Obviously only if repairing either isn't possible or practical.
Mine recently died too, the HDD is the most common weak link. I would get a green light and heard the ticking of the stuck drive. Taking it apart, and manually unsticking the drive didn't get me any further. I'm working through the procss of installing an SSD.. have gotten it to boot to the point of asking for a google sign in, but even though the email and password are correct, it is not accepting them. Still trying to track down the solution.
Nothing will display without a working drive. My tv would detect something was connected to it, but that was the only indication that it was alive.
Thank you for update...I still didn't figure myself though, why why even with ssd nothing shows up :-(
If there is not a bootloader/program on the ssd then there is nothing for it to read from to show. Try creating the PRO 500G ssd first and see what you get. An ssd without a program on it won't have anything to read from. Look for the SSD done posts.
I have 128GB SSD and I tried to copy it with partition size adjustment...I can read the drive, I see the smae structure...seems to be okay, I can also read previous HDD without problem (also SMART do not report any issue). I think it really died....
Have you read the posts under "Nvidia Shield TV SSD - done"? The change to a different size drive can be very tricky and requires hex edits. I'd advise getting the 500G SSD and following this guide to see how far you get. Other than that I've run out of ideas, good luck.
Thanks for trying to bring up new ideas. I know that thread very well, I even tried original image with hex modifications, using calculator, then I used the automated script, I'm quite confident I did it right. Don't forget that even with original image/previous HDD it doesn't boot and I don't want to touch the previous HDD to ensure I still have some backup. It's really pity there is not any serial console..
I can also read both disks using Linux reader, the partitions are identical (except size naturally) etc.
Just the behaviour is really strange...
Sorry I wasn't any help. It is too bad there are so many hoops and you can't just install from an ISO like I can for my linux programs or to run a VM. If you are sure of your drive, might be worth watching ebay for an inoperable shield to put it in. I'm sure that's all mine needs.. just trying to get around the log in issue.
Hi, I got a 2015 pro 500GB, went to do the ssd swap, got an evo 870 500GB SSD...
Thought I'd cloned it ok ( with hd guru HDD raw copy tool )
But I get no video signal at all ( not a black screen ) "no display detected" on TV, green light on shield, no fan spinning...
Is this apx mode, can I get out of it..
Not sure what happened with the original HDD as put it back into pc and was showing unallocated space,
( Booted a gparted live usb, it shows a basic small windows efi partition & the rest as unallocated space ( I think when I tried to clone it, windows may have :initialised the HDD and nuked it...)
??
Thanks