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I'm designing a dock for the N7v2 for use in a car. It will have Qi wireless charging and Bluetooth audio receiver, with a standard 3.5mm audio output. It should be compatible with most cases.
I am also currently designing a mounting method that should be close to universal between different cars, and should not fall off like most other docks in the market.
I designed one for the N7v1 using the Pogo pins, and I can never go back to not having a dock for my tablet in my car. It's amazing the difference it made for me.
I want to know a couple things.Please reply with the following template:
1. Would you want a dock like this?
2. How much do you expect to pay for it?
Thank you everyone, in advance!
lorddralnu said:
I'm designing a dock for the N7v2 for use in a car. It will have Qi wireless charging and Bluetooth audio receiver. It should be compatible with most cases.
I am also currently designing a mounting method that should be close to universal between different cars, and should not fall off like most other docks in the market.
I designed one for the N7v1 using the Pogo pins, and I can never go back to not having a dock for my tablet in my car. It's amazing the difference it made for me.
I want to know a couple things.Please reply with the following template:
1. Would you want a dock like this?
2. How much do you expect to pay for it?
Thank you everyone, in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a great idea. Do you have any links showing your work with N7v1? Heck, I may be interested in that version since the v1 tablet can be had for cheap these days and is more than capable for the limited functions needed in a car. At any rate:
1. yes, would be interested
2. no idea what a fair price would be, but $50-$100 seems like a fair ballpark
I would think very carefully why you need a wireless charger in a car.
Heat kills batteries; tablets in cars get hot. Why add heat to your woes?
The tablet is likely to be busy playing music and navigating, often in full sunlight. Why add to the heating problems by using a wireless charger when a 5v cord charger attached to the car supply will do the trick?
The wireless car mount/charger iterations for the Nexus 4 were a failure, I recall.
rant said:
Sounds like a great idea. Do you have any links showing your work with N7v1? Heck, I may be interested in that version since the v1 tablet can be had for cheap these days and is more than capable for the limited functions needed in a car. At any rate:
1. yes, would be interested
2. no idea what a fair price would be, but $50-$100 seems like a fair ballpark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've attached 4 pictures of the dock I made for the first Nexus 7. You'll notice that it inst exactly a dock you can put in just any car. I realized I made a little too rugged... and big!
croques said:
I would think very carefully why you need a wireless charger in a car.
Heat kills batteries; tablets in cars get hot. Why add heat to your woes?
The tablet is likely to be busy playing music and navigating, often in full sunlight. Why add to the heating problems by using a wireless charger when a 5v cord charger attached to the car supply will do the trick?
The wireless car mount/charger iterations for the Nexus 4 were a failure, I recall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that's why I don't leave the tablet in the car, I keep it with me. While I'm in the car, if it's hot out I will have the A/C on anyways, so heat has not been an issue.
Most of my broken devices are dead because the USB port broke because of wear and tear. One of the points of this dock is to reduce that. Plugging in a device everytime I get in the car is partly to blame for such failures. I would have used Pogo Pins, like with the first Nexus 7, but they don't exist on the second.
Shared app developing ideas
Hey everyone,
my name is joseph and i am new to this website. I am also new to the whole rooting phones as well as i am learning the basics of computer science-- os, rom, ram, eprom, android, custom roms.....etc.
I honestly have no idea what i am looking to read and study up on so if you have any ideas than please let me know so i can educate myself. I end goal is to be a program developer.
Also i have an amazing ideas of a great new app. I have the layouts for the app but don't have the knowledge to build the app myself. If you are interested in learning more about my idea and possibly collaberate pleae let me know and we can possibly exchange numbers.
Another thing, i am an inventor and creator.
-----trickyspartan
lorddralnu said:
Most of my broken devices are dead because the USB port broke because of wear and tear. One of the points of this dock is to reduce that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look at active Brodit car mounts - say for a Nexus 4. There the device is supported and aligned as it glides onto or off the USB. There is no possibility of twisting or yawing.
I think your proposal maybe over-kill - simplest solutions are always best IMHO. A guy in the Nexus 4 forum came to no good end and had a lot of unhappy 'subscribers'. Just saying.
croques said:
Look at active Brodit car mounts - say for a Nexus 4. There the device is supported and aligned as it glides onto or off the USB. There is no possibility of twisting or yawing.
I think your proposal maybe over-kill - simplest solutions are always best IMHO. A guy in the Nexus 4 forum came to no good end and had a lot of unhappy 'subscribers'. Just saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would normally agree. I was hoping to make one that doesnt require a case to be removed to use. I designed my previous dock the way you describe (except it used the Pogo pins on the side), but I always had to remove the case and eventually the first case was showing signs of damage from being removed so often.
My hope is that the base platform of the dock I want to build will be compatible with multiple models of smartphones and tablets that are Qi capable. That'll require a lot more planning, but may be worth it.
lorddralnu said:
.
My hope is that the base platform of the dock I want to build will be compatible with multiple models of smartphones and tablets that are Qi capable. That'll require a lot more planning, but may be worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if you're set on the route you've described; ... I see you've picked up on the Peltier pump in another thread. Credit me somewhere if you make it!
But I might consider an approach made by Philips in an Android Bluetooth Speaker and dock. The adjustment for USB and its placement on an edge, plus 180 degree rotation needed for some models, was catered for physically. A much cheaper approach which copes with tablets and phones!
croques said:
Well if you're set on the route you've described; ... I see you've picked up on the Peltier pump in another thread. Credit me somewhere if you make it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I will use a Peltier pump. And yes, I'll make sure you get credit for that idea I'll mount the transmitting coil onto the cold side (probably with a layer of copper in between, we'll try several things) and have the hot side of the pump mounted to the aluminum/sheet metal of the back plate (probably with thermal paste as well). I'll have the pump on a simple thermostat. Good thing I have an EE helping me with this project
Hopefully the final product won't need a Peltier pump, but I will definitely have it in the prototype.
croques said:
But I might consider an approach made by Philips in an Android Bluetooth Speaker and dock. The adjustment for USB and its placement on an edge, plus 180 degree rotation needed for some models, was catered for physically. A much cheaper approach which copes with tablets and phones!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had very good experiences with using that type of dock The results of daily use tend to be USB ports that are stretched and loose. At least that's how it has been in my experience.
lorddralnu said:
I'll mount the transmitting coil onto the cold side (probably with a layer of copper in between, we'll try several things) and have the hot side of the pump mounted to the aluminum/sheet metal of the back plate (probably with thermal paste as well). I'll have the pump on a simple thermostat. Good thing I have an EE helping me with this project
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't forget to talk to your EE about eddy current loses in any conductors (copper, aluminium) you have nearby to your induction coil.
Interesting read, but with the cooler this is going to be a very expensive dock. Without it, look to Canada for your market.
I rigged up one for my Nexus 4 last Winter. Based on some testing, I used the most efficient charger I could find for that phone (the LG wcp-700). It worked very well... until late spring when the mercury broke 70. To make a long story short, I pulled it last month as the phone was getting too hot. This in a suv with a 4 liter v6 with plenty of air conditioning, front and rear.
Without the cooler, the tablet needs to be located directly in front of a vent, or even in moderate climates the unit will get hot enough to significantly reduce charging current.
One more thing to consider... the Nexus 7 is polarized vertically. This means that it is invisible in landscape orientation for anyone wearing polarized driving glasses, which I am willing to bet is a large percentage of your prospective market (tech savvy, auto enthusiasts). Most displays designed for vehicles are polarized at 45°, making this not such an issue.
While the tinkerer, software developer, and electronic geek in me wanted a fully integrated tablet in my truck, I soon came to the conclusion that it was simply not practical. What is really needed is a properly done appRadio, where a head unit can mirror the display of a mobile device (ideally wirelessly - miracast, etc.) with a control link set up to pass touches on the head unit back to the mobile device. We're about 30% there now, but a lack of standards, and major players wanting proprietary solutions is a problem.
I wish you much success with your endeavor, but just wanted to share my experience and feelings that this will not be all that marketable a product.
The problems you had with the nexus 4 does not necessarily effect the nexus 7. The nexus 4 was pretty terrible at wireless charging. I had a car setup with a qi charger with the lumia 920 and it worked great even in hot weather. I am not saying the nexus 7 will work, but it might.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
txaggies07 said:
The nexus 4 was pretty terrible at wireless charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What makes you say that? I ask as I have seen relatively similar performance with both the N7 and N4. The tricky thing about the N4 is that the coil is not centered in the vertical dimension, so for folks making the assumption that it is, there will be quite a bit of offset.
Solutions Etcetera said:
What makes you say that? I ask as I have seen relatively similar performance with both the N7 and N4. The tricky thing about the N4 is that the coil is not centered in the vertical dimension, so for folks making the assumption that it is, there will be quite a bit of offset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I say that because of all the issues people had with car docks. It also had issues with the dt-900 qi chargers when it shouldn't have. It heated up excessively with most chargers.
I wonder if there will be an Official dock that lets you:
1. Charge
2. Expand TV HDMI out
3. USB port for Hard drive access
I really want the Nexus & FHD to be a Home entertainment player...may be a remote/ Or Kinect like gesture control app built in with the dock
Hope this comes true...it will be the best Combo for a home unit!
Hello everyone. I am new to the site, and fairly new to car audio.
I was hoping I could get help figuring out what I need to buy so that I can setup my audio for my car,
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX with infinity sound system( Minus the stock infinity amp, and oem radio/headunit)
I want to run all new wires to each of my speakers. I was thinking I need 14gauge wire.
I want to use a Nexus 7 Tablet as my head unit.
I would like to use a wireless charger for the tablet but I don't know if that's practical. If not then I will need a solution for charging the Nexus 7.
I want the tablet to be removable. I want to be able to tune into local radio stations.
So what I am not understanding is do I need to keep my current headunit and connect the nexus tablet to it via auxilary cord?
My headunit does not have bluetooth, and it was designed for use with an iPhone.
If I keep my current headunit how will I adjust the radio station from my nexus 7. I don't really want to be pulling the tablet out each time I need to change stations.
Then my other question is, do I need to keep that headunit to use a nexus 7?
I think that keeping the headunit paired with the nexus will probably be easiest because then I know I have a receiver for radio stations, and cds.
Also I need some help deciding what amp to get, what sub, and new set of tweeters.
I think I need a 4 or 5 channel amp
A 10 or 12" sub
I dont really know much about what brands to get, if I do or don't need crossovers.
Also some sound deadening. - which to get.
This was put in by local audio shop but they screwed me over. So I want to do it right this time myself. I am new to car audio, but I am familiar will basic electrical.
This is what is installed currently.
Deck (Pioneer DEH-6300UB)
Front Door speakers (RockFord Prime Full Range 6.5" 4ohm 3-way)
Rear Speakers (Rockford Prime 6x9" 4ohm 3-way)
PrimerPlus said:
Hello everyone. I am new to the site, and fairly new to car audio.
...
I want to run all new wires to each of my speakers. I was thinking I need 14gauge wire.
I want to use a Nexus 7 Tablet as my head unit.
I would like to use a wireless charger for the tablet but I don't know if that's practical. If not then I will need a solution for charging the Nexus 7.
I want the tablet to be removable. I want to be able to tune into local radio stations.
...
If I keep my current headunit how will I adjust the radio station from my nexus 7. I don't really want to be pulling the tablet out each time I need to change stations.
Then my other question is, do I need to keep that headunit to use a nexus 7?
I think that keeping the headunit paired with the nexus will probably be easiest because then I know I have a receiver for radio stations, and cds.
Also I need some help deciding what amp to get, what sub, and new set of tweeters.
I think I need a 4 or 5 channel amp
A 10 or 12" sub
I dont really know much about what brands to get, if I do or don't need crossovers.
Also some sound deadening. - which to get.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
best thing you can do is to split your project in to smaller parts. get them done in the order you think you can do it.
i recommend you get an N7, get the Behringer UCA 202, get a DAB stick and get SDR touch working. then figured out other parts as you have the time. it will be time consuming.
research what others have done.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I picked up google nexus 7 32gb 2013 version from bestbuy.
I will look at the other items on amazon in a little bit.
If you know a good thread that describes the process to help that would be great too!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
PrimerPlus said:
Hello everyone. I am new to the site, and fairly new to car audio.
I was hoping I could get help figuring out what I need to buy so that I can setup my audio for my car,
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX with infinity sound system( Minus the stock infinity amp, and oem radio/headunit)
I want to run all new wires to each of my speakers. I was thinking I need 14gauge wire.
I want to use a Nexus 7 Tablet as my head unit.
I would like to use a wireless charger for the tablet but I don't know if that's practical. If not then I will need a solution for charging the Nexus 7.
I want the tablet to be removable. I want to be able to tune into local radio stations.
So what I am not understanding is do I need to keep my current headunit and connect the nexus tablet to it via auxilary cord?
My headunit does not have bluetooth, and it was designed for use with an iPhone.
If I keep my current headunit how will I adjust the radio station from my nexus 7. I don't really want to be pulling the tablet out each time I need to change stations.
Then my other question is, do I need to keep that headunit to use a nexus 7?
I think that keeping the headunit paired with the nexus will probably be easiest because then I know I have a receiver for radio stations, and cds.
Also I need some help deciding what amp to get, what sub, and new set of tweeters.
I think I need a 4 or 5 channel amp
A 10 or 12" sub
I dont really know much about what brands to get, if I do or don't need crossovers.
Also some sound deadening. - which to get.
This was put in by local audio shop but they screwed me over. So I want to do it right this time myself. I am new to car audio, but I am familiar will basic electrical.
This is what is installed currently.
Deck (Pioneer DEH-6300UB)
Front Door speakers (RockFord Prime Full Range 6.5" 4ohm 3-way)
Rear Speakers (Rockford Prime 6x9" 4ohm 3-way)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This might help: http://youtu.be/K6OWTnoPZYA
I'd recommend getting a compatible amp and linking your nexus straight to it. Also, if you have a wifi hotspot, you don't need a radio, just use tune-in radio. it has all the local channels.
Thanks for the video! Anxiously waiting to see the rest.
I decided that the wireless charging is not going to be practical seeing as the tablet basically has to be touching the pad anyways. So hard lines will be fine.
Here is list of parts I think I am needing. Let me know if it looks good.
Nexus 7 32gb 2013 edition (Have)
Double Din Dash kit for my car ( I can't seem to find a kit that is made for my car? 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX) I have a single din dash kit maybe I can modify it to work...
Right Angle Micro-B to Micro-B Female - 5 wire
Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power for Nexus 7 Galaxy S III & Galaxy Nexus
PowerGen 4.2Amps / 20W Dual USB Car charger Designed for Apple and Android Devices USB
StarTech.com Mountable 4 Port Rugged Industrial USB Hub (ST4200USBM)
Fosmon Snap-On Hard Rubber Protector Cover Case for Google Nexus 7 - Black
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface
Audio
Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4 300-Watt Multi-Channel Amplifier
Which sub (or different)
12" Rockford Fosgate P2D4-12 Punch P2 DVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 400 Watts RMS 800 Watts Peak Subwoofer
10" Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 Prime R2 DVC 4 Ohm 10-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer
Tweeters:
I don't know suggestion please.
Sound Deadening :
Some cheap but reliable: Suggestions
Wiring:
Anything special I should use or just some 14gauge?
Accept for what goes to amp which I will use 4gauge
I want to make this a removable install so I can attach it when I get in the car and take it out when I get out if I want to.
Also I decided that I will keep the current headunit I have because I do not have a dedicated hot spot for wifi and my cell phone plan only allows me 2gb per month. (AT&T)
So I will need to figure out how to push my current headunit further back.
Does anyone know if there is some app that will allow me to control my current headunit through auxilary or usb from the nexus 7? All I really want to be able to control is radio station, and volume.
Also I have a plan for making the tablet removable I just don't know what would be required. I want it to be a push in push out motion. You press it in to lock in and press again to release it.
So any suggestions for what to get would be helpful.
I was looking at another site and a guy made a box out of plexiglass. That would be good. Then figure out what i need to make the push release work.
Suggestions are needed and appreciated.
If I am missing anything let me know :good:
I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
01.11.2018
I forgot to mention, there are no issues with porlarized sunglasses (vision impaired like I have, or regular). Usually LCD screens are polarized so if you have polarized glasses you only see the full display colors and brightness at a fixed angle 0 or 90 degrees (head straight or tilted to one side). This unit does not suffer from this issue like older phones did. (after posting I noticed I did mention this in my previous note )
28.10.2018
I'm really happy with the unit:
- response time is as fast as you expect it to be (as in touch - do stuff vs. click - you got it, hold on it's comming, almost there, just keep spinning windows/macos stuff)
- display is bright/direct sunlight, polarized sunglasses not an issue
- you can disable most of the inputs that source (steerwheel button) cycles through, except of A/V in (which I think is the LaneWatch camera)
- switching between radio, music, Waze and other apps is instant
- Waze only crashed once during a 450km ride, in the same area it crashes on my phone as well ... really Google ?
In the end I guess it's all about personal prefference about the preinstalled software which you can replace with apps from play store (or other sources) to your liking, so I'm not gonna comment on that as most of the defaults are fine for me it's fine. There are however a vew caveats to consider:
- Since I don't use my google account and created a new one for the unit I don't have access to my contacts. Altho the unit syncs your contacts via bluetooth to the phone app, 'OK Google' cannot use that.
- The default phone app does not have any favourites options, so your best bet is to use the last recent calls. But that list is not synced with your phone, it's only the list from when your phone was connected with the car (tried MTCDTelephonyBridge, did not work).
- There are some volume issues which I could not figure out (yet ). Navigation volume is set on MIXIN and has a range from -10 to + 10. At first I had it on -5, it was very low, then I moved to +7, fine for a while until it became too loud, lowerd to +5 and it was very low, bumped it again to +7 and it was the same low. I wish they would do the 'smart' thing like the original HU and just output navigation to front left speaker (that's the only clever thing I noticed in the decade old default Honda unit)
- Only one screw can be used to fix the unit, the original ones don't fit as they have huge integrated washers. You don't really need to fix it as it won't go anywhere but still, worth mentioning. Also I wanted to insulate all the cables with the same kind of foam that you find around air conditioning pipes, so that the cables don't touch the back plate of the unit. After taking the dashboard off again, I realized there is a ton of space there so the cables will not touch the back of the unit holding the radiator, which anyway is just for the TDA amp, so there was no reason to. If you go for a 2din unit, extra space will be smaller but still plenty of room on the bottom part.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.
kind3r said:
I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
ikerg said:
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you be more specific ? There is a link to the unit I bought and pictures in the first post. I asked the seller about compatibility and other stuff before purchasing and he assured me that all is ok. I'm not saing I'm not happy with the unit, the small differences don't bother me, but others might be bugged by those details. Overall I'm just sharing my experience while highlighting differences between expectations (aka product description) and reality
@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.
Is the wheel button works good??
hafidelbazdari said:
Is the weel button works good??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's a weel button?
Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 5 mit Tapatalk
Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?
kind3r said:
....the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
kind3r said:
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.
HNDXCRV said:
@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
hafidelbazdari said:
Is the wheel button works good??
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Click to collapse
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
dgcruzing said:
Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Manfred.62 said:
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.
kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wanted to change the date & time in my IMID display thats why im looking for workaround.. AC app? what's the name of the app? is it built in? i want to see the climate settings for novelty
kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?
hafidelbazdari said:
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.
kind3r said:
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.
Manfred.62 said:
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.
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Click to collapse
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?
hafidelbazdari said:
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).
hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sligthly better bicture of the mic in the final position.
Manfred.62 said:
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, nice find. I was actually looking for that before buying a unit but could not find any schematics.
The back pannel arrangement of the connectors is not similar to my original unit see a picture of the back of mine here, but connectors seem to be more or less the same. Now, not all the connectors on the car have a corespondend on the harness and viceversa. The connector you are reffering to must be the Sirius XM receiver (? satelite radio) which as far as I know is not available in EU. Also, the USB connectors look the same in your document but in my case they are a bit different by just a small notch. What is the functionality you are interested in so I can tell you if it works for me or not.
On a side note, I have tested the unit during the last few days using the auto sleep feature, witch does not do a shutdown + cold boot so the unit starts in 1-2 seconds after you start the car. There is still a small delay after that when you get notifications about the SD card and USB stick that are being mounted so that's another 2-3 seconds until playback resumes, so it's still faster than the cold boot which takes around 25 seconds. But as android tends to be like windows on the long term, I will stick with the cold boot 'mode'.
As @HNDXCRV and others mentioned, I could not find a way to set the clock on the factory display. But as DST changed in my country, with a big bang I might add (earthquake during the night, could not sleep after that :/) to my surprise the car's clock changed as well. So I guess there is some communication from the HU, at least for time. My guess is playing in Factory Settings could result in AC being controlled from the unit as well. But I don't really see the point in doing that since dedicated hardware buttons are better than touching a display.
Some were concerned about the performance of the display in direct sunlight. Today was a sunny day, I took a trip to the seaside and I can tell you I had no issues looking at the display with my polarised sunglases on. Also the angle of the polarisation did not seem to matter as tilting my head did not do anything to the brightness level or colors, so kudos for that, it's a really nice display. At some point I was looking through the settings and realized it was only at 75% brightness.
Overall I really love this unit. Of course it's not perfect and there is some room for improvement here and there, but there are no words to describe the difference of (first and foremost for me) performance, sound quality, level of customization, size and quality of the display. Most of the small things that bother me are due to software ergonomics say like the radio app having a dedicated button for stereo lock, instead of something more useful (not that anything comes to mind right now). You have to customize a bit to your liking, I have uninstalled/disabled apps that cycle via the source button on the steering wheel, changed the volumes of navigation, radio, music, a2dp etc. to my personal preference. Also there are a ton of replacement apps for the stock ones, play store is full of choices if you have enough time to try them out, like launchers, dialers, music apps etc.
I still have to update to the latest Android version (unit came with 20180809, latest is 20181011, but with newer MCU 2.98_1) but since there is no reason to, I will hold off for the moment. I am tempted to do a full reset of the unit as there are some leftovers from the seller testing the unit like paierd phones etc. (not that it matters too much).
@kind3r
thanks a lot for your infos. Seems like this device is really worth it. I can not decide yet.
What I like to do if...
connect the original GPS (via adapter, found in ebay)
connect the original microphone (via adapter, not found yet)
Questions:
the radio has RDS fully working (channel names, radio text, traffic TP/TA) ?
is the Dasaita usable without internet connection (only radio or mp3) or does it throw error messages?
does "Ok Google" work? Or do we need the MtcDialer
Because of updates: maybe it's best to do it at the beginning.
For the GPS adaptor it will still take around 2 weeks to get to me so I can post some feedback about it.
I could not find any reference in the connectors for the integrated mic. I'm not sure if an adapter exists. At first I thought this will bother me but it tursn out it's not really that big of a deal. Sound quality is way better than with the original mic/HU combination.
RDS is working but unfortunatelly I cannot test traffic as it is not available in my country. The radio app has switches to enable disable TA and TP but since there is no broadcast for that ... they don't do anything for me.
It should not throw errors without an internet connection but for me the whole point was to use it with Waze for the realtime traffic information. There is a version of iGO preinstalled with Europe maps on an 8G SD card. I will probably buy a bigger card that can fit the iGO maps and music so I have an offline navigation as a backup just in case.
'OK Google' is working but unfortunatelly I think it uses the contacts from the google account and does not use the contacts synced via bluetooth from the paired phone. Since I created a new account for the car I don't have any contacts but I will add some just to test. MTCDialer did not work for me, it always crashes on launch.
Hi,
I'd like to introduce my project...
I'm building a vintage kit car using the BMW Z3 (2000 model year) as the base car. I want the car to have access to tech but for the tech to be hidden in the centre console, actually on the underside of the top of the console. The concept is that when no tech is needed (for example at shows) the car will retain its vintage looks but when tech is required (i.e. when being driven) the tech becomes available. I'm imagining a top section of the console which will hinge up and reveal the tablet. There isn't going to be much space on the underside of the console which is why I'm going for a tablet rather than one of the many Chinese android units.
As an aside, I've just ordered an Icebox Octa core 64G Rom / 4G Ram unit (TTF1983 ) for my facelift (2015) Vauxhall Insignia which I expect to arrive in the next week or so.
I've already researched other people's projects which has helped me to get to where I currently am. Where I currently am is ordering many of the bits and pieces which I expect to need.
My tablet project is intended to be a much simpler affair than the Icebox unit:
DAB and FM radio
Rear and, hopefully, front camera
Sat nav
OBD II
Mirror my phone if needs be
What I won't need includes:
Steering wheel controls
Air con management
Electric roof control
Pretty much everything else that an android head unit offers
What I might need is:
BT Phone but in a convertible that's going to be a bit of an issue any way
Because the car will only be used sporadically I need an effective power management system, one which will kick in after perhaps a month's lack of use.
My tablet of choice is a Galaxy Tab S 10.5 (SM-T800) which I happen to have lying around, it's currently running stock Android 6.01 . The tablet is a wifi model so the plan is to hotspot it to my Galaxy S8 when I'm on the road
I've already ordered
a 12V to 5V 3A dc-dc converter
a 4 port USB2 hub
an OTG Y cable to take power from the dc-dc converter to feed the tablet and to move data between the devices
an easycap UTV007 video capture device (for the parking camera units)
a USB to USB relay to allow the easycap to feed the video through to the USB when reverse is connected
an 'intelligent' video selector which has two video inputs (front and rear cameras) and one video output (to the head unit via the USB relay). The unit keeps the relevant camera connected to the output. I need to take delivery of this and play with it to see what it can really do.
an ELM327 bluetooth OBD II device
a NooElec Smart DVB+ device
a Creative Soundblaster DAC
I know that I'm going to need a decent amplifier between the DAC and the speakers (suggestions and recommendations welcome). I might also want a manual volume control, possibly with a push button mute facility. I've probably missed a bunch of stuff...
I've rooted the tablet and tweaked it (overwritten lpm) so that when the ignition is switched on then the tablet will boot. I've used MacroDroid to tell the device to switch off 10 seconds after the ignition is switched off (unless the ignition gets switched on again within those 10 seconds)
I'm looking very closely at the Agama Car Launcher to pull much of it together. There are some aspects of this launcher that I'd like to see improved. For example I'd like to be able to get back to the home screen from the maps screen (or other screens) CarWebGuru places a button on the screen to allow this. It would be nice also to have a split screen so that I can have maps on one side and Audio / OBD / any other app on the other side. I'm aware that I might not get all that I wish for
One thing I'd REALLY like to see improved is the cold boot time which is currently 50 seconds. I might consider a custom ROM if anyone knows of a ROM that will fire up quickly, or any other tweak which will significantly shorten the cold boot time. 10 seconds or less would be nice. I've looked at Cyanogenmod 12.1 or 13 with the quick boot utility but I understand that the quick boot is basically hibernate and may not survive a month without the ignition being switched on.
Hopefully I've given a reasonable overview of what I'm looking to achieve and hopefully there will be people out there that can help tie everything together and troubleshoot when the time comes.
Russell
nice project, good luck with it..
Keep us posted on your project progress...
Wondering how this is coming along?
My question for you is, will the tablet charge and use data via the OTG cable simultaneously? Did you need to run a custom kernel to enable that?
thanks.
Quite in consonance with what I've been wanting to achieve. Nevertheless, the plan was frustrated by other priorities. Would love to see how this emerges. Meanwhile here's a basic experiment I've tried.
Hi all, Im looking for a modern alternative to the classic Nexus 7 withs Timur's for a new car install. For last couple of years Iv had this. Its been great for it primary use (Spotify) but am just finding it old and tired now, never got round to getting GPS, DAB or all the other things I planned on, mainly its just a bit slow and buggy but I learnt alot about USB connectivity, noise control, power etc.
Being an audio quality freak Iv always used USB audio into a miniDSP. Just wondered if anyone knows what would make a good tablet for a modern replacement? A list of requirement are:-
1) Size . maximum width for my Audi is 211mm, other dimesions are fine. As long as same or bigger than the Nexus.
2) OTG power and data at same time (does this always require rooting?)
3) My first Huwaii experience put me off all other makes of touch screen other than galaxy or iphone. Are other makes just as good?
4) Automatic deep sleep mode when power to the tablet is off. (maybe tasker app?)
5) Operating speed
6) bells and wistles. The nexus has a suprising amount of tech inside for an old device
I was thinking of a pre owned S series galaxy. Just wondered if anyone has has success with a modern in-car tab install??
thanks
mamba76 said:
Hi all, Im looking for a modern alternative to the classic Nexus 7 withs Timur's for a new car install. For last couple of years Iv had this. Its been great for it primary use (Spotify) but am just finding it old and tired now, never got round to getting GPS, DAB or all the other things I planned on, mainly its just a bit slow and buggy but I learnt alot about USB connectivity, noise control, power etc.
Being an audio quality freak Iv always used USB audio into a miniDSP. Just wondered if anyone knows what would make a good tablet for a modern replacement? A list of requirement are:-
1) Size . maximum width for my Audi is 211mm, other dimesions are fine. As long as same or bigger than the Nexus.
2) OTG power and data at same time (does this always require rooting?)
3) My first Huwaii experience put me off all other makes of touch screen other than galaxy or iphone. Are other makes just as good?
4) Automatic deep sleep mode when power to the tablet is off. (maybe tasker app?)
5) Operating speed
6) bells and wistles. The nexus has a suprising amount of tech inside for an old device
I was thinking of a pre owned S series galaxy. Just wondered if anyone has has success with a modern in-car tab install??
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey @mamba76 wondering if you ever decided on a device? I'm in the same situation, can't seem to find anything that fulfills all the requirements. I have the same idea as you, using USB audio vs BT or analog. I'm thinking USB C is the way to go, newer tech, and hopefully can do data and charging simultaneously? Let us know what you decided on!
jivenene said:
Hey @mamba76 wondering if you ever decided on a device? I'm in the same situation, can't seem to find anything that fulfills all the requirements. I have the same idea as you, using USB audio vs BT or analog. I'm thinking USB C is the way to go, newer tech, and hopefully can do data and charging simultaneously? Let us know what you decided on!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I forgot I started this thread recently. Although the 2013 Nexus 7 with Timur's kernel has served me well over the last 3 or so years Iv been using it, its now just too buggy, slow and hardware is failing. I could have bought a new tab for the money I spent on spares, 2x USB PCBs, just ordered a battery as its given up. Iv been looking for a replacement, probably a Galaxy Tab A, I started researching but got bogged down with unknowns and Im hoping someone on here who's used the Timur's kernel and knows about custom car tablet installs can jump in here and help the car audio customization world move with the times.
For me I suppose Im stuck on- , do I still need to modify a devices kernel to comply with the deep sleep functioning that the Timur's kernel provided? Im pretty sure the audio to USB is not a problem but the audio to USB AND having the device charge at the same time IS. ie. data AND charge. Can anyone confirm that its possible to allow simultaneous data and charge on the Galaxy Tab A??
ps. in my opinion USB audio is the only way to go..
mamba76 said:
Hi, I forgot I started this thread recently. Although the 2013 Nexus 7 with Timur's kernel has served me well over the last 3 or so years Iv been using it, its now just too buggy, slow and hardware is failing. I could have bought a new tab for the money I spent on spares, 2x USB PCBs, just ordered a battery as its given up. Iv been looking for a replacement, probably a Galaxy Tab A, I started researching but got bogged down with unknowns and Im hoping someone on here who's used the Timur's kernel and knows about custom car tablet installs can jump in here and help the car audio customization world move with the times.
For me I suppose Im stuck on- , do I still need to modify a devices kernel to comply with the deep sleep functioning that the Timur's kernel provided? Im pretty sure the audio to USB is not a problem but the audio to USB AND having the device charge at the same time IS. ie. data AND charge. Can anyone confirm that its possible to allow simultaneous data and charge on the Galaxy Tab A??
ps. in my opinion USB audio is the only way to go..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*update
jivenene
Hi, yes I bought a Lenovo M8 FHD tab (about £150) same width as the nexus so will fit in my car ash without too much hassle. Better spec than the Galaxy, very happy!
ps. see my other threads / posts about the OTG )