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I have travelled to devon on Saturday and used Google maps navigation which is simply superb as u could see the traffic jams in advance (believe me there were plenty of them) I had my phone charger charging my desire but the battery drained still any idea why surely the charger should charge it or keep the power at the same level ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Anyone surely someone must know why the car charger hasn't enough power to charge the phone when running navigation and the normal phone functions
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I have no solution but I have the same problem. Quite frustrating.
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
especially with some GPS apps that consume lots of juice...
Any suggestions which are the best chargers ? Does anyone know what the new HTC dock will incorporate ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
This is a common problem.
It bugged me sufficiently that I investigated it in detail.
The Desire, and presumably some (all?) other HTC phones, employ relatively complex charging circuitry.
When you plug a USB cable into the phone, the phone does at least two different checks to determine what type of power source you have just connected.
If you have plugged in a mains powered official HTC charger, which has a rated output of 1A, then the phone knows that it is safe to draw a maximum of 1A from that charger.
The phone will then draw enough current to power itself and, on top of that, charge the battery at the same time.
This current will typically be in the region of 800mA (0.8A) to 900mA (0.9A).
Under these conditions there is enough current to power all the functions of the phone, including WiFi, Bluetooth and GPS, as well as the usual GSM radio and the phone's other functions, as well as being able to charge the battery.
However, if the phone believes that it is connected to a power source with a lower rating such as a standard USB port, then it will limit the maximum current that it draws from that power source to between 400mA (0.4A) and 500mA (0.5A) as this is the maximum officially provided by a USB port.
In other words, the phone is intelligent enough not to overload a standard USB port but, when more power is available, it is able to use it.
The mechanism that HTC uses to detect a power supply capable of supplying 1A, as opposed to a USB port, is very simple indeed.
When the phone detects that an external power source has been connected, it checks to see if the two data lines of the USB connector on the bottom of the phone have been short-circuited.
If they have been short-circuited, the phone takes this to mean that a suitable power source has been connected providing a current of at least 1A.
If the data lines are not short-circuited, the phone assumes that the power is coming from a USB port or other device not capable of providing more than 500mA.
In practice, the way this has been implemented is that within the official mains powered HTC charger, the two data pins of the USB connector are shorted together.
As soon as you connect this charger to the Desire, the phone detects the short-circuit and knows that it is connected to a charger capable of supplying 1A.
This particular trick seems to be something unique to HTC rather than being a universal standard, although this is a bit of a guess on my part based on having looked at only a few other chargers.
What this means is that if you have a car charger that is rated at 1A or higher, your HTC Desire will still only draw a maximum of 500mA from this charger.
This problem is easily rectified by opening up the charger and soldering together the two centre pens of the USB connector so that the phone sees this short-circuit and realises that it can safely draw I higher current from the charger.
Unless you know what you are doing and fully understand what I have explained above, then please don't go fiddling around with your charger.
I have carried out this modification myself on a couple of non-HTC mains-powered chargers and a couple of 12V car chargers with 100% success.
I have, however, found that some 12V chargers, even though they are rated at 1A or even 1.5A do not result in the Desire drawing the expected current.
What I found was that the phone would draw only about 250mA and then, after I had shorted the data terminals within the charger, the phone would draw about 450mA but not the 850mA or so that I had expected.
I have yet to determine with certainty why this is but it appears that as the phone begins to draw current from the charger it is able to detect if there is even a relatively small dip in the voltage coming from the charger and, if so, the phone backs off on the amount of current that it draws.
I will be doing a few more tests in my electronics lab to try and get to the bottom of this and provide a more detailed analysis and, hopefully, a useful solution.
In the meantime though, I have at least solved the problem that I was having and, based on numerous forum posts, the same problem that many other people have been having with car chargers not effectively charging the Desire.
Tim
mercianary said:
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Snap!
I didn't see your post before making mine (above) but my experimentation agrees fully with what you've said.
You can do it the way you've described, by modifying a cable, or you can do it inside the charger itself.
Just make sure that the cable going to the phone has all four USB wires in it. Some of them only have the two power wires, so the phone will never detect the short circuited data lines.
Tim
If you do not want to open your car charger, you can always create a male to female adapter that shots D+ and D- on the female side like the one in the attached picture
Obviously, the charger needs to be able to provide the 1Amps that are needed. If not, it will at best shutdown in protection mode, at worst fry completely with a great chance of fire...
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
They want you to buy an official USB cable I guess ? Considering any microusb cable works I'm surprised they bother
Maybe because they just put the two VCC and GND wires in there, thus saving on the cabling cost.
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
_Crusoe_ said:
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you check your battery stats by dialing *#*#4636#*#* and look at battery info, then you can see if it is charged by USB (max 500 mA) or at AC (more then 500mA)
I bought the official HTC charger, works perfectly.
thanks a lot for the explanation. I went for an uprated USB car charger but was still using normal cables to plug into it and the phone wasnt keeping up when bluetooth and GPS was on and was flat by the end of a long journey. Have tried the mod and phone is showing as plugged into AC so hopefully this is going to sort my issues.
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Was thinking of shelling out for a Brodit kit, but at £50+, I'll stick with a cheap one.
Narco77 said:
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the offical charger and the usb cable is fine for data transfer.
Bingo Accent said:
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really.
For the "mod" to work, your charger must be able to source at least 1000mA which most can't anyway.
So you first have to find a charger that does and then, if it's not already the case, short the D+ and D- cables together.
Note that this can be done by disassembling the charger (not being sure of being able to put it back together), by using conductive glue on the USB plug itself (a bit invasive) or by using an adapter like the one I shown in my previous message (but you need to do it yourself or have someone do it for you)
Ok, well...
I'm Korean, and I've searched almost every Korean tablet forums, yet can't find the reason :crying:
So I came to here, XDA.
The problem is, my Tab Pro 8.4 won't charge at all.
It's looks like an usual charging problem of Tab Pro 8.4, however, mine's little bit different.
With the charger plugged in and tablet is on, I can see the lighting shape on the battery icon at the status bar (which appears the charger is plugged in) ,
but no matter how long I charge the tablet, it's 0% and turn off after like...10 secs.
With the charger plugged in and tablet is off, I can see the battery pic appears on the middle of the black screen.
BUT, like the former situation, no matter how long I charge the tablet, I turn it on and it dies quickly.
SO, my problem is this, and i can't find a tiny reason why my tablet got (or how to fix) this battery problem.
Never seen a battery problem like I have right now.
I got several ideas about this. (Hope this will help you to fix my situation )
1. My tablet's rom is not pure. (But not rooted.)
As far as I remember, I applied the Ukrainian version about 3 weeks before.
Is it possible the this is the reason?
If so, wiping the original rom and applying the new one would help me?
2. Is it possible that the battery and the tablet connection got a problem?
If so, open it by myself and re-positioning the battery would help me?
3. The battery charger part might be damaged.
Then it leaves me the one option {GO TO THE SERVICE CENTER} ?
4. well...not 4.
have no idea.
Using same charger which is official SAMSUNG's.
I will keep monitoring this thread.
Little help to poor man would be really grateful, THX
PS
I just tested download mod.
With the charger is plugged in, it's working.
to see if the charger is bad, fully shut tablet down and then try to plug the tablet into a USB port on a computer and wait about 8 hours, then unplug it and see if the tablet holds any charge (battery might still be low but it should have enough charge to run awhile), if above works then it means you need another wall charger (5v 2.1A).
if it still just powers off or dies then it means the battery is bad or not connected or something else is wrong with it.
1. Try another USB cable
2. Try another 5v 2.1A wall charger
3. Try charging on a PC
4. replace battery.
To verify your tablet is charging, you need this little tool
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
Current should be 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, voltage should be 5 to 5.2 V
If the charging current is under 1.5 A, you should change different USB cable or adapter
If cable and adapter are fine, the next is charging port, it's easy to replace if your is defective.
Never use usb port on computer to charge, it only supply 0.5 A and your tablet needs at least 2 Amps for charging properly.
These are basic steps you need to do, without basic information I cannot tell what is wrong with your tablet: not charging or bad battery, or the worst: bad main board.
The one you have to verify: your tablet is drawing normal charging current around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps when plugged in. You can not troubleshoot problem just by guessing.
The most common problem of Samsung tablets are cracked Battery connector, a simple re-solder will fix the charging problem.
There are many unknowns, you have to eliminate charger, usb cable, usb charging port as the source of problem first. Then next look for battery or battery connector.
Otherwise, you will confuse yourself and others what causing the problem. Elimination is the key to figure out problem from many unknowns, one by one at a time. There's no short cut , otherwise, you can not figure out where the problem comes from.
I see many users send their tablets for service and the problem just comes from a bad cable because they have no idea what's wrong with their tablets.
Beut said:
To verify your tablet is charging, you need this little tool
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
Current should be 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, voltage should be 5 to 5.2 V
If the charging current is under 1.5 A, you should change different USB cable or adapter
If cable and adapter are fine, the next is charging port, it's easy to replace if your is defective.
Never use usb port on computer to charge, it only supply 0.5 A and your tablet needs at least 2 Amps for charging properly.
These are basic steps you need to do, without basic information I cannot tell what is wrong with your tablet: not charging or bad battery, or the worst: bad main board.
The most common problem of Samsung tablets are cracked Battery connector, a simple re-solder will fix the charging problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can charge from a computer fine just as long as the tablet is fully shutdown first (so you see the battery icon scrolling), this will ensure the 500ma will go directly to the battery and not running the tablet and os, it will charge very slowly but it will eventually reach 100% as nothing is drawing power from the battery to drain it (though I would only charge to 20%, to see if it holds a charge), however this method is just for diagnosing if the charger is bad and have no current alternatives, obviously this should not be a long term solution and never used when the tablet is running, but rather to see if the battery can hold any charge at all.
if you have another 5v 1+A charger laying around then use that instead., if the charger is the problem you can pick them up pretty cheap off ebay (make sure the hallmark icons and model number match to avoid knockoffs)
otyg said:
if you have another 5v 1+A charger laying around then use that instead., if the charger is the problem you can pick them up pretty cheap off ebay (make sure the hallmark icons and model number match to avoid knockoffs)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To see what is wrong with charging problem, you should never use wrong charger like 5V, 1 A or a USB port on computer. If using a 5V, 2A charger and a correct USB , any reading is under 1.5 A, there is something wrong with charger, or USB cable, or USB charging port, or battery connector. Even wrong USB cable, the one has only max of 1A, also is the source of slow charging.
His issue is not with slow charging, it was as soon as he unplugged it the tablet instantly powered off, in this case if the battery is 100% dead then damage is already done and once a lithium battery is completely discharged then most likely no charger whatever the mA is will bring it back...this is why I was saying to charge it from whatever source since you need to get a charge into the battery before it's irreversible damage.
However after re-reading ops post I think it's safe to rule out the charger as the problem because he said he could run the tablet with it plugged in (so that means the Charger is providing enough power to run the tablet) according to my mA reader this alone is around 500-700mA in standard use / full brightness
This also mean we can rule out a bad Micro USB port on the tablet since a broken one wouldn't allow power to the tablet.
the problem likely lies with a bad battery or a bad battery connection, the probably only option at this point would be for him to have samsung service it or take the chance to replace the battery.
(BTW I have all the tools nessasary and I know what can and can't charge this tablet)
Yes I know it needs a 2.1a charger to charge it while it's actively running since a good portion of that power will go into running the tablet and LCD if needed, it does not need a 2.1A charger when it is powered off and 500mA to 2.1mA will still charge it.
Three is a thread here talking about reseating the battery. Look it up. That may help.
Agree with otyg. I recently had a similar problem. My galaxy tab s 8.4 would power off immediately after being removed from power. It would register as having 100% charge while turned off, but once powered on, the tablet would show 4% charged or lower. Another thread on this site mentioned that the battery contacts on the motherboard have cracked for some owners creating symptoms like ours. I resolved the issue by applying a low resistance conductive adhesive to the cracked pins linking the battery to the motherboard. If this happens to be your problem be very careful because there are other contacts next to the battery pins. Good luck!
Hi there everyone,
I have been trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 installed into my car seamlessly without problems since December 2015. I have Timur's Kernel v4 (6.0.1) running on it, and it was working flawlessly.
However, I decided that the no battery mod needed to be done as I just could not leave that battery inside a hot car - way too risky.
So, I did the Kevdav no battery mod - with success.
However, once the battery connection was receiving 5v via a usb car charger the OTG cable connected to the tablet's mini usb port would not wake/suspend the tablet properly. It would wake it up, but once it was awake the little battery icon at the top would forever show that it was 'charging' and once power was cut to the otg y cable / mini usb, it would not suspend (would still show as charging).
I did research, and bought a Drok DC-DC step down converter. I lowered the voltage to the battery mod connection to 3.7v (and tested up to 4.7v) and this alleviated the problem of suspend/wake. I think since the original battery gave out less voltage then the otg/charging connection, this needed to be replicated in order for the otg to work.
However, I now have a new problem that I cannot seem to fix. This problem only seems to happen in the car and does not occur when testing it in the house using normal wall chargers.
For clarity, this is how everything is wired up in the car.
Nexus 7 battery mod side of things:
Nexus 7 battery terminals > 22awg usb cable > drok dc dc step down power supply (this board has a female usb port for output) set at 3.7v (tested up to 4.7v) > input is connected to car's constant 12v connected directly to battery on a fused wire.
Nexus 7 mini usb port side of things:
Nexus 7 mini usb port > usb otg y cable > mini usb cable > 2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire.
The link to the drok dc dc step down is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FDBY66Y/ref=twister_B01GO268W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I turn on acc ignition to send power to the otg connection. It'll power up. However, if left in standby overnight the tablet won't power up. If I physically press the tablet's power button it'll wake up, show the wake up animation, and react as normal (including any subsequent power downs). However, if I don't press the power button and I turn off the ign again, an icon on my car's instrument cluster will be faintly illuminated - this is odd behaviour and should be completely out. When this is the case, if I get out and try to lock the car the remote central locking doesn't work.
This light will go out if I physically disconnect the otg y cable from the tablet, and low and behold the remote central locking works.
I'm no expert on electronics and such, but it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Does this make sense? Sorry for the long question, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with troubleshooting or any advice? I've this one problem and then I'm set but I just can't seem to figure anything out and need someone's advice who is in the know rather than take wild stabs in the dark using my own logic because if I do the latter, not only will I waste money on needless components but I'll more than likely break something. I've read stuff about diodes or something in order to regulate power flow but I'm not even sure I'm using the correct terminology here so if anyone can tell me I'm onto something here or I'm talking complete nonsense then anything is appreciated!
I did search these forums and google but I really cannot find anything that is similar to my problem.
Thanks for any input guys, whether it be any tips on what I'm missing or what I need to change (software or hardware, electrical, etc) - it's all very much appreciated.
Antony
Edit: so sorry I think I posted this is the wrong n7 2013 sub section. I can't delete the post but if a mod could please kindly move it to the relevant forum I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
antc101 said:
it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, indeed, and your "2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire" requires a small mod to prevent the power feedback. It needs an extra 1A+ diode connected directly to 12V input. You could modify the adapter's PCB or simply replace the fuse's internal wire with a diode where its cathode goes to the spring and its anode to 12V input. Or just place the diode somewhere along the adapter's hardwire. $0.16 1N4001 is good enough ([email protected] is OK for [email protected]).
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Neo2020Marz said:
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
Been a while since I posted on this thread but just wanted to update on what I have done so far.
Since my last post, I don't have any issues. I placed a diode as mentioned above on the +12v for the accessory power. This seemed to have fixed any back flow of power.
Concerning the power off over night, I'm pretty sure this was something to do with Timur's kernel. I forever had issues with that thing - eg, suspect and wake issues, accessories connected to my usb hub..
I switched to a stock version of android 6.0.1 - MOB30X if memory serves... and installed Elemental X version 5.16. No issues with this setup what so ever.
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
GTMoraes said:
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You better have more luck.
My nexus was put under the dash and was fine for around 3 years. And it became expanded in just 2 days, separating the screen and the case. So I have urgently remove the battery.
As of today, when I plug in the charger it will show the Dash charging symbol, then cut in and out a few times before it stays charging. I updated to 5.0.3 yesterday if it means anything.
Is this normal? I couldn't find anyone else reporting this.
It happens to me too, even back in Nougat. It starts as regular charging and then a couple of seconds later, switches to Dash. I figure the delay is due to the charger and phone figuring out how much battery the phone has left to determine how much amps to push through. Dash charging operates at different amperages depending on the voltage of the battery. Thing is, that either that never seemed to happen on my OnePlus 5 or I never noticed it, but on the 5t it does.
I think I'd be more comfortable with your issue. When I see the charging LED flashing and the charging notification disappearing and reappearing, it's unsettling.
My Nexus 5X would do this as pocket lint would build up in the USB port, preventing the USB cable from fully seating. Every so often I would have to take a small needle (something non conductive would probably be better) and carefully clean around the edges to pull out the lint. I was always amazed at how much build up really does end up in the USB port and headphone jack.
I used to have that issue with old micro USB ports and this definitely reminds me of that. I'm concerned though because I've had the phone less than a week and the port is clean. I also get that satisfying 'click' when plugging in the charger.
Ah, well that probably isn't your problem then. I would try another charger and cable to try and isolate the problem between the phone, cable, and charger.
Remember the OnePlus cable is unique, you can't use just any USB C cable with the dash charger. I believe IIRC the OEM cable has a 10k resistor, while most in spec USB C cables will have a 56K resistor. However you can use another charger and cable and see if it cuts out as well.
OhioYJ said:
Ah, well that probably isn't your problem then. I would try another charger and cable to try and isolate the problem between the phone, cable, and charger.
Remember the OnePlus cable is unique, you can't use just any USB C cable with the dash charger. I believe IIRC the OEM cable has a 10k resistor, while most in spec USB C cables will have a 56K resistor. However you can use another charger and cable and see if it cuts out as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We have three 5t phones here all purchased last week. I tried all three charges that came with the phone and it does this with each one, all plugged into different outlets.
We updated a 2nd one to 5.0.3 and now this one also has the charging notifications flicker on and off about 7 times before it stays charging normally. I haven't tested the 3rd yet because it was fully charged when I came home.
It's odd that it is two of our devices now doing this and I haven't seen anyone else with this problem. I would assume that we got phones out of a defective batch, but they were definitely not doing this before the update.
Just an update, I wiped system and cache and it still does this.
It didn't do it when I plugged in at 88% immediately after wiping. But it does do it when I plug in at around 30% like I usually do.
I'm wondering now if they all do this after the 5.0.3 update and no one really notices.
Hi,
Have searched this forum and other sources on the web. Can't resolve my issue. Hope I can get some help.
Running the most recent stock update. This is a Wi-Fi model only.
I will explain what happened.
Had the tablet plugged into outlet.
Had the Chrome browser open, was logged into a NHRA drag racing website and watching live racing.
Was Chromecasting to my 55" Sony tv.
The tablet was in this configuration for about 4 hours, the screen went black and lost Chromecast connection to tv.
Could not see if the battery was running low, as the tablet was at full screen.
Left the tablet charging in a different outlet. And with different cables.
Have tried all the Power, Volume and Home button combinations.
Have had the back cover off. Disconnected the various battery cables. Took the battery completely out.
No response from the tablet. No vibrations or flashes.
Am I missing any other solutions.
Thanks in advance.
does it attempt to charge?
NJ_RAMS_FAN said:
does it attempt to charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. The charger gets warm. Took back off, and checked with multimeter. 4.09 volts and 3.44 amps.
Going to order a replacement battery. Though I don't think the battery is bad. I think something has to be reset on the Tab S.
Thanks.
Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.
Beut said:
Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.
Robls said:
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These measurements won't give you any glue what is wrong along the charging circuit which involves many parts.
Use the USB voltage amperage tester when charging, it will tell you how much charging current is drawing.
If it's less than 1.5 Amps, then using elimination method to find where is the defective part. You must have known working parts for testing.
Start from USB cable, charger, USB charging port, then battery connectors: this one requires technical experiences to see what is wrong. Most average users don't see the cracked solder joints on battery connector which requires microscope. With the naked eyes most won't see anything wrong because the crack in underneath of solder joints
From my experiences, changing the USB port won't see any differences, then problem is mostly from battery connectors. The one from mainboard needs to be resoldered, the one from battery needs to fix the cable clips. I have been fixed hundreds of them, so this is not an opinion.
You need to read from here to understand Samsung tablet's problem
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63133996&postcount=131