Develop Bugs

Sprint PS3 Controller -wired *Now Working on Some Games*

OK, so I've hijacked enough to want to create my own.
Stock Sprint S3 (two actually) and I cannot seem to get PS3 controllerS to work. 2 Phones, 2 Controllers, 1 USB OTG (known good, works with flash drives perfectly), Several USB cables. Tried the JoyCenter test app and it also shows no movement on the controller. USB reads connected, controllers power up (flash "slowly") but have been told I should see a "control box" that never shows. My phone has had all kinds of settings tweaked (although still not rooted), so figured I would try the wife's as hers is nearly out of the box and got same results as I figured it was something I did or changed.
Tonight I will be going by GameStop (new/used game store) and seeing if I can try one of their controllers to make sure I didn't somehow buy two counterfeit controllers (bought from two sources locally and do not have PS3 to test although I saw one working on seller's PS3).
Any ideas/tips/suggestions/etc?
-Have charged the controllers overnight to make sure they were full charge as well.
Thanks so much! DYING to get this working and I'm leaving on road trip this weekend, which would be PERFECT to have this working!
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HOW TO GET IT WORKING!!!
OK, well after some incredibly frustrating days of trying to get this to work... I think I have it solved. Well, at least for some games.
I got it working on ShadowGun perfectly. NOVA 3 I am still working on, Emulators seem to work as long as you don't need the right analog stick.
*I know VERY VERY little about programming and the such. Just enough to root phones and "acquire" apps.* That being said, apparently Sprint S3 does not play nice with PNP. I plugged, it didn't play.
NOT ROOTED
What I needed to get wired PS3 controller working:
PS3 Dualshock 3 Sixaxis Controller
Mini Male => USB A Male cable
USB OTG (On-The-Go) Cable
"PS3PairingTool" App **I know this is for wireless per the app's info, but this is the only thing I got the controller to read and MUST keep the cable connected. Can turn BT off once controller is fully connected**
"USB/BT JoyCenter" App
Finally, how to connect them up:
1. Plug everything in (Controller to USB cable to USB OTG to Phone)
2. Open "PS3PairingTool" and let it find the controller, click and "PAIR"
3. Once paired, open "USB/BT JoyCenter" and then let it find the controller, select the controller
4. Press the PS button on the controller, light on controller should now go to "1"
5. Test the controller to make sure buttons are reading
6. Once in ShadowGun (for example), you will need to assign an action to whatever button you want
7. Click the THANKS and/or Donate to buy me a much needed drink after hours cursing to figure this out!
8. ENJOY!!
As I said, I know just enough to be dangerous, so if you're having any problems LMK and I'll see what I can do. I am still working on getting this 100% and possibly finding an easier way to hook it up while not having to Root.

My guess is that isn't an original controller but a aftermarket had this happen before
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Xparent ICS Blue Tapatalk 2

ok, fair enough... but two controller from two sources both fakes?
Thats why I will be seeing if the store will let me just try one of their used controllers they know are legit to see if it does anything else. I will be very upset if BOTH of them I bought are fakes!

FYI, I think I just verified Sprint doesn't allow the wired method. 3rd known Legit controller, same results.
EDIT: DLed the PS3 controller connectivity app and it now reads, but none of my emulators will use the buttons. Anyone care enough to help a moron figure out mapping? *I WILL POST HOW I DID WHAT FOR OTHERS WHEN COMPLETED!*
EDIT #2: I got all working on both controllers besides the right analog stick. In the Joystick app, it reads, but not a single emulator will let me map or read this stick at all. Ideas?

Seems like sprint traded native ps3 controller support for google wallet... haha...

any ideas on how to get the right analog stick to read elsewhere besides the connectivity app? it reads when testing, but nowhere else

flawedlegacy said:
any ideas on how to get the right analog stick to read elsewhere besides the connectivity app? it reads when testing, but nowhere else
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Sixaxis or how ever it is spelled app over bluetooth should work.

only if rooted... and i am not

flawedlegacy said:
only if rooted... and i am not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then root?

dont want to for now, want to try and keep it stock. Thing that gets me is every other button is working fine, just not the second analog stick. USB/BT Joycenter should be able to map the second analog differently to fix it, right?

I apologize in advance for necroing this thread.
With that said, I'm having a incredibly difficult time getting my PS3 controller to work with my Sprint SGS3, stock. For Christmas, my husband got me a GameKlip with the wire so I wouldn't have to root my phone. The wire has micro USB on one end and mini USB on the other, so one end for the controller, one for the phone. I can skip the USB On The Go cable.
After purchasing two apps (I'm getting a little impatient now tossing money away), reading instructions like that in the original post, and having the pairing tool not work, I'm at a loss. When I have the phone and controller connected, all 4 lights on the top of the controller slowly flash on and off. And when I go in to the Sixaxis Controller app and click "Pair Controller" nothing comes up. It's as though it doesn't see the controller at all.
I have the controller set as the default input device on the phone as well as the gamepad enabled in the app. The BEST part out of all of this is that most buttons on the controller natively do control the phone. The start button acts like the home button. Triangle and Circle are the return/back button. Cross is the confirm button. And the d-pad/left analog stick navigates through the apps/widgets/pages that I have on display.
I just can't get the thing to work natively in a game. Even when I create .map profiles, it doesn't work. I also have the USB/BT JoyCenter app and it sees the controller connected via USB. But when I try to map buttons, it doesn't seem to really do anything. And the controller still does f'all in games, regardless of what settings I choose. I'm assuming I'm missing a step or two somewhere.
Any help is appreciated. I'm about ready to send the GameKlip back and just play how I used to.

XBOX 360 wireless controller won't stop flashing

I have the official Microsoft XBOX 360 wireless USB dongle to connect 360 controllers. I plugged it directly into my Fire TV, and much to my surprised, it worked immediately with no configuration. My only issue is that all 4 LEDs on the controller blink constantly (The lights that show if you are Player 1, 2, 3 or 4.) I have brand new batteries in, and have tried multiple controllers. They all do the same thing. I have seen lots of posts with people saying this happens, but couldn't find anyone that figured out how to turn it off. Is this something I just need to get used to, or has someone figured it out?

martyxng said:
Is this something I just need to get used to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep. Everyone with this setup gets the constant flashing. Learn to ignore it.

Fire Tv Stick remote suddenly stopped working

Like it says up top, but it's relatively new. Of course I tried new batteries. I had been using the originals from when I bought it in late March. All I was doing was syncing mysql to the stick and I needed a mouse to move some stuff around in ES file explorer (got side tracked actually and installed task manager to clear the cache) so I installed WuKong remote. It was then I noticed some serious lag--takes about 10 seconds or less on fire tv console to clear cache. This took about a minute at least then it just froze in the app, couldn't press home. Tried 3 sets of new batteries but nothing worked.
BTW--this new faster screen timeout on aftv is all the more annoying when you're trying to do something like update a library because if I leave for a couple of minutes I need to reboot since neither Yatse nor wukong were able to wake up the display BUT you can still hear the clicks.
I don't mean to go on but something tells me this is more than just a remote control issue. I thought if anyone had a similar experience they might be of some help. Thanks.

Did you try to pair the remote again? Press the home button for 5-10 seconds after powerup.

Calibaan said:
Did you try to pair the remote again? Press the home button for 5-10 seconds after powerup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. A few times with different batteries, but it just won't pair. I might try a factory reset. If I had to pin point it it would've died when i first started using wukong app. I've used that on other devices with no issues but that's the only thing i did differently last night. I'll probably do a factory reset and if that don't work call amazon.

You could try the Android phone remote app for calling the pairing function from menu. Probably this does the trick.

Calibaan said:
You could try the Android phone remote app for calling the pairing function from menu. Probably this does the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And had I caught your post a bit earlier...I may have lol.
I still have no idea the root cause but a factory reset did the trick. The remote responded immediately (actually a lot faster then when i wipe my rooted atvs.) I wonder if the wukong remote somehow highjacked it?) Just remember the reason i installed it was to be able to mouse click "show hidden" on ES file explorer. The stupid part is I now know there's another way to accomplish this without a mouse by going into the app's settings. No big deal. Thanks for the help!

This has happened to me thrice in one week. This on a rooted FTV, not stick. Three times, the remote just died. Changed batteries, but no joy. The first time, a simple reboot fixed it. The second time, I had to use the FTV app on my iPhone to un-pair and re-pair it. The third time, the reboot did the trick. Not sure what happened. Since then (around a month back), no issues. No change in firmware/apps/any sort of configuration on FTV (or any new devices in the house) before the problem or after the problem. The problem came for a week and then simply went away.
I don't have the Wukong app installed. I have one another FTV in my bedroom and made sure that the problem remote did not somehow got paired to it, and it wasn't. I need to read up on BT interference, that seems to be my wild and ignorant guess. Or some hardware within the remote is going bad... But, I am not sure about that reason, the remote is used everyday and works fine since the mishap.

Today while watching a video via my AFTV, the whole thing just locked up on me. Had to remove the power cord to reboot it. After it rebooted I noticed that my controller wasn't doing anything, and the same with my amazon game controller. But my logitech K400 worked. So I go to settings because I know for a fact the batteries aren't bad. Put in some new one on the remote first thing and you can see the led light up on the controller. Anyways, in Settings it said my controllers were paired, but said Battery, like the batterys were dead. So I used my keyboard to unpair my gamepad. Then I had no problem pairing it up and controlling stuff, so I did the same with my remote and boom, now it works.
tl;dr Check settings, if it says just Battery on the controller, unpair it, and then pair it again.

Can some one help my fire stick controller it's working correctly it goes up & down but it won't go on the mouse bit to click on the show box films I want to watch I'm new to all this technology stuff lol

fire sitck dead
I had my firestick for a week and used it, maybe four times. Went to use it again and it would not come on, no LED light, nothing. I changed the batteries, several sets of new ones. Nothing. I am not a tech guru, so if you have some ideas for me, dumb them down.
Oh, and I tried the new batteries in another remote and they work fine.

Had the same problem too... I had to hold down the Home button while being 4inches away from the receiver before it synced

i've had no luck with my firestick remote, i connected the firestick to my tv but the firestick remote won't sync with the firestick so now i'm stuck at the first screen, i've tried changing the batteries for new ones, cleaning the remote's battery contacts, plugging and unplugging the firestick from the tv and the electrical outlet. I've also plugged the firestick to a brand new tv and still can't find the remote. I've remove the batteries for 2 hours and tried again to sync it to the firestick and no luck. rebooted my router several times, put the remote next to the firestick to see it would sync and still no luck, changed hdmi ports and nothing, went to a friend's house and not working there either. called amazon to be sent a replacement firestick and remote, they sent both and still the same problem. I would like to factory reset the firestick but i don't know how since i can't use the phone app or the remote. I'm at the very first screen where it asks you to press the home button so it can find the remote. btw, i've also did the hold 3 button remote reset and didnt work either. i have the firestick with voice first generation, i had kodi installed so i don't know if that means it was rooted or not.... Any suggestions on what else i can do to pair it would be greatly appreciated.
TL;DR firestick with voice remote won't sync no matter what and need help with syncing.

If you are still having this trouble it is because your firestick does not recognize that the tv is on. It's doing that because it is plugged into the wall. If you unplug the USB part of the plug from the wall and plug it into your USB slot on your tv it will solve the problem. Switched mine over and it hasn't happened since.

TommyCallahan said:
If you are still having this trouble it is because your firestick does not recognize that the tv is on. It's doing that because it is plugged into the wall. If you unplug the USB part of the plug from the wall and plug it into your USB slot on your tv it will solve the problem. Switched mine over and it hasn't happened since.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes absolutely no sense at all.
@nachumama So you have a new FireTV Stick and a new remote and it still doesn't work? Two separate sets of stick+remote and none of them works on your TV or the one at your friend's house? That's not good.

FireStick remote not working properly
My Firesticktv remote was working very slowly. I would hit a button on the remote and nothing would happen for about 30 seconds. I changed the batteries(no change). I fixed it by going to Settings- Network- whatever network it says you are connected to. hit the Forget this network, Then connect to the next network on your router. It was my 2.4GHz channel. For some reason my channel was changed and was on my 5GHz channel, It didn't work on the 5GHz channel. The remote works like new again

my firestick is not working tried very thing that other people has tried what to do next

Fire Tv Stick remote suddenly stopped working issue or Amazon Fire Stick not working issue usualy occured due to Inadequate Power Supply, Damage Fire Stick’s remote batteries, Outdated Software, Corrupted Fire Stick Cache, and Overheating of Fire Stick devices.
However, there is some workaround solutions available on the web 'https://techsmagic.com/how-to-fix-amazon-fire-stick-not-working-after-update-reset' page detailing it. Here is the solution:
Method 1: Restart your Fire Stick
Method 2: Check your Internet Connection
Method 3: Update FireStick Software
Method 4: Clear the Fire Stick Cache
Method 5: Reset your Fire Stick to Factory Settings
If you have some other and better solutions to fix this issue, must share with me. Thanks

New Shield Controller on 2015 Shield Pro

Got the new controller for the Shield Pro 2015 edition. Great form factor, much better than the original. However, it cannot be used with the 2015 unit yet. Problem is when you take it out of box and turn it on, it immediately goes into pairing mode, the unit detects it but when you try to push an action key on the controller to accept the new controller on the pairing screen, it will not respond. Then it will finally go back to main screen only to endlessly repeat the pairing screen. There is no light on the power key anymore so there is no way to tell if the thing is on or off. Also, long pressing the gamepads on button will not stop the repeating of the pairing signal. Called Nvidia, they said this is normal but it should work as a normal controller for now, until update/ if plugged into unit via USB. No go there either. There is not indicator other than when you first plug in a power cable and it vibrates to let you know that it's getting power but no indicator light to tell you when it is fully charged. I had to put it back in the box and move into another room far away from shield unit just to be able to stop it from trying to pair every two minutes or so. Anyone else have any success with this. I'm thinking the controller may be a defective one.
Found solution in another blog: I got the new controller for the 2015 shield pro and found out the hard way that it doesn't quite work as it's supposed to yet. However instead of "adding shield accessory" (which continuously found it but failed to pair it) I was able to "add a Bluetooth device" and it paired and works perfectly. For anyone else that may have jumped the gun on the new controller with the older system.
It works fantastic.

I think you need the new 5.0 update, that hopefully coming soon.

Question S22 OTG Gamepad Gamesir x2

I have an S22 with Stock Android and bought Gamesir X2 to play XBOX Cloud and Retroarch games with it.
For some reason I decided to buy the USB-C version over the Bluetooth (I thought I was neat to be able to charge the phone while playing and also less input lag due to BT delays).
Thing is, gamepad arrived, I rushed to plug it in and found out nothing happened. Gamepad blue light stays blinking (its supposed to stay blu when connected) and the phone doesnt even detects anything.
This is supposed to be a simple OTG gamepad, so should be plug-n-play.
I reached to Samsung about 'how do I enable OTG to use my gamepad' and the answer was 'OTG is enabled by default'
I also reached out to Gamesir, they told me to try press G+S buttons on the pad while connected, but nothing happened
There's a Gamesir app that is suppsed to be used to detect it (and also map the gamepad on some touch screen games) but doesnt work for me
I also found some guy on youtube claiming I should enable ADB debug and set USB default to 'File transfer'. Doesnt work either
Anyone having the same issue?
Anyone having a USB-C Gamepad working?
Any ideas on what to try out to get it working?
Thanks in advance

I've recently run into a similar issue however on a S23+. The device I'm trying to use is a Seek CompactPro FF USB-C which uses powered OTG. No need of a cable as it has USB-C built into the device itself.
It didn't work at first, it detected it and tried to open the "Seek Thermal" app which is normal but in the app itself the device was not being detected. Did a ton of searching until finally I found another person having a similar issue where the work around was to plug in the OTG device, then reboot the phone with the device still plugged in.
Give that a try? IMO it shouldn't be like this, and it isn't very well documented anywhere I look...but that worked for me for my device. Did not work any other way. Device works perfectly fine after rebooting phone with it plugged in.

86brown said:
I've recently run into a similar issue however on a S23+. The device I'm trying to use is a Seek CompactPro FF USB-C which uses powered OTG. No need of a cable as it has USB-C built into the device itself.
It didn't work at first, it detected it and tried to open the "Seek Thermal" app which is normal but in the app itself the device was not being detected. Did a ton of searching until finally I found another person having a similar issue where the work around was to plug in the OTG device, then reboot the phone with the device still plugged in.
Give that a try? IMO it shouldn't be like this, and it isn't very well documented anywhere I look...but that worked for me for my device. Did not work any other way. Device works perfectly fine after rebooting phone with it plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply 86, tried that but didnt work for me. I saw a couple of videos where the blinking blue light might mean that its not connecting well (its supposed to stay blue) so I guess its something to do with how the cable is connecting. Since Gamesir already told me I have no warranty nor support from them as I bought it on Amazon instead of their site I'm thinking on tearing it appart during the weekend.
If I break it I'll end up with a nice pouch case for my cables (the most expensive pouch ever).