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Hola!
I'm trying to work out how to make my own XDA car kit cable. I have the pinout for the XDA - thanks to the XDA Developers Site
- http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors
I also Have a pinout for the back of my Stereo (Philips CAR 400 From a Vauxhall Astra - '02) thanks to
- http://carradio.hit.bg/philips.htm
I have done some preliminary testing with small cables and connectors that go into a standard phono input on my big stereo in my room and have been successful at making a mini-kit, but am having real trouble working out what the pins on the back of the car stereo do (i.e which is for audio input from the phone)
Labels are as follows:
PHILIPS CAR400
01 - SVD
02 - SAC
03 - SCL
04 - Tel. Mute
05 - TIS
06 - Batt. +
07 - MRQ
08 - Power Antenna
09 - DDL
10 - Lights
11 - ACC ( 12 v + )
12 - GND
13 - SDA
The only one that make any sense is Tel. Mute (Anyone any idea what voltage I have to put accross this to get the system to mute)
If anyone knows what the rest of the pins stand for your help would be much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Will
You put the mute to earth to mute the stereo - normally it's floating.
1 down
Good good, one down, 12 to go.
Now I've read your question.
Answer is probably none of them. All the mute does is silence the audio (and pause the CD on some radios) - the assumption is either that you have a remote speaker for the phone or you use some commercial adapter like Autoleads to intercept the output to the car speakers via a relay. Autoleads sell a huge range of car/stereo specific leads that all provide a "generic" phone interface for Nokia phones. There are also a number of patch leads that enable you to plug specific car kits to the Nokia interface (which is just Battery, switched +, ground and mute with a 3.5mm jack for mono audio. Most knowledgeable guy for this stuff is Terry White on http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/ (he'll sell you the appropriate leads or make up what you need).
Note that the Autoleads solution (which mutes the stereo and uses relays to swich the audio from the phone to front speakers) renders the stereo automute unnecessary, but it is nice to pause the CD anyway and usually you get a front panel indication of phone call which is useful.
I note that the Philips connector also has an audio L/R/Gnd input. This is probably for an aux source like an MP3 player (eg XDA) but of course this needs to be selected on the radio and will also be muted when the mute pin goes to ground.
Hope that helps
I guess the other pins are things like CANBus, D2B wakeup etc. a bit like Siemens/Bosch
Last one. The Autolead you need is 06-078B - £47 + pp from Terry.
http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/06-078B.html
Phew!
That's a mighty big cable?
I notice that it has a 'big connector' (I've marked it in yellow on the image I've attached with this post). There is already one of these on the existing setup. This wouldn't mean I have to completely rip out all of the existing wiring would it?
Also, the jack (Red on the image) looks like a mono jack, I assume this is the bit that plugs into the phone or which I can adapt to plug into the phone?
Seems a bit expensive too, is it really necessary? Can I just forget the auto mute feature and have the phone output go through the 'MP3 In' inputs? That way I can listen to the music on the XDA through the car stereo as well as any sat-nav stuff I decide to install later on.
The main aim of my question is to try to develop a cheap solution to an XDA-Car audio interface. Do none of the connections on the back of my stereo allow me to wire in some sort of auxiliary input?
Yes it is big but it does the job and you can usually find room.
The connector(s) go in line with the ISO and stereo specific plugs, so routing all the power and speaker outputs via the relay module. You don't rip anything out, or need to break into existing wiring, so you reduce risk of problems or warranty issues - it really is the lowest hassle solution.
Yes the red plug is the phone audio input and is designed for Nokia kits.
Expensive? Not really, considering you avoid any hassles and can remove the kit after with no changes or damage to the car wiring. Replacing connectors and fixing car wiring can be expensive.
Yes you could go into the Philips cnnector from the XDA, but you would have to manually select Aux in on the radio, and it wouldn't mute anything. If you were listening to the car radio you'd need to answer the phone and also switch to aux in on the radio to hear anything. Sounds a mess to me!
OK
Ok, so assuming I use the new connector to wire in the phone and have it working through a seperate speaker, how do I connect the MP3 Outputs of the XDA into the stereo. I have no problem using a seperate speaker for the voice on the XDA but I really want to play the XDA music through the Car's built in speakers.
I understand I'll have to come up with some way of getting the sound from the XDA to the speaker AND the car stereo but I don't mind that, It's just something I'll have to worry about.
Most car stereos I've seen have a seperate set of Phono Sockets for auxiliary inputs but this philips doesn't. What do the pins on the back actually stand for in english? (Laymans terms please because I don't understand the long names but I will be able to fathom how to use them if you tell me what they actually do, long names might be ok too cos I can always look on Google to find out what the various bits do.)
Actually I screwed up - looking again at that wierd Bulgarian* site the CAR 400 looks like it has the 26 pin connector and the phone lead would be Autolead 06-053B.
http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/06-053B.html
Also it looks as though the CAR400 does NOT support Aux in - sorry about that - although you could try putting signals onto pins 9 and 10 (using 3 as Ground) and see what happens (that's what the CAR660 uses). No warranty actual or implied!!
* This guy is promoting software to crack EEPROM codes on car radios and to clock cars with digital instrument clusters. Not sure I'd be so keen to build a close relationship there mate!!
No Fear
Thanks anyway, I've got a few exams to sit this coming week so no chance to fiddle for a bit but I'll post back again once I work out how it goes. Looks like I'll have to find some sort of seperate amp and patch it in somewhere to output to the car speakers.
No connection between me and the Bulgarian bloke, just found the site on google as a means of showing you the pinout on the back of the CAR 400.
I'm assuming Pins 9 and 10 CDR and CDL stand for CD - Left and CD - Right respectively?
One last quickie before I go, can I source ISO connectors (Just the plastic bits) from anywhere so I can maybe make a patch through cable? I'd need a male and a female one.
i.e.
CAR STEREO (FEMALE ISO) ---> Wiring (MALE ISO)
becomes
CAR STEREO (FEMALE ISO) ---> NEW MALE ISO --------> MY STUFF ---------> NEW FEMALE ISO ---> Wiring (MALE ISO)
Cheers for the help, I'll have a mess about over the next few weeks and post back with my results in case anyone's interested.
Just a note to say I've found some ISO Connectors. You can get them from maplin.
http://www.maplin.co.uk
codes
QK25C (headunit end) @ £4.99
MZ76H (car end) @ £6.99
Anyone finds them a bit cheaper let me know...
Another quick note. I've found a small amplifier from Maplin (Code N67AW) 40W 6-16V. (MONO ONLY)
The instructions say it is a 'bridge type' amplifier and that the speaker connections should therefore not be to ground (As in a car).
The setup works fine on my test rig at home, but I was wondering, will I just get lots of noise if I connect it up in the car, or will I blow everything up?
So far my plan is to make a patch through cable that amplifies the XDA signal direct to the car speakers and has some form of automatic switch to detect if audio is coming through the XDA. If it is, then it mutes the signal from the car stereo and patches the XDA through.
Any suggetsions?
I'm after an adapter to work with my WinMo device which allows me to connect up my own Mic.
The one that almost fits the bill is this ExtUSB 3-in-1 Adaptor but the problem is with the Mic!
I have my own Mic already wired in and a fair way from where the adapter is going to be located. Ideally, I just need a 3.5mm jack for the Mic to go into, just like the 3.5mm jack for the audio out.
The final result being I have a handsfree solution in the car, connected up through the car stereo speakers and a handsfree mic.
Can anyone see any issues with this setup? Does anyone know where I can obtain such an adapter?
1) I tried that adapter with my Touch PRO and it messed up somehow the audio managment so after plugging it in once - after receiving a call I could speak but the device become totally unresponsive only reset worked until a next call... so I hard reseted device and bought the HTC original one.
2) You might get a ground loop when using audio together with charging. I have had it with different cars, devices (laptops/handhelds). The ground loop will give you loud unwanted digital noise while charging. There are workarounds but might not be easy to reach. Basically you need to get the power from the SAME WIRE as the amplifier does.
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
bsell1 said:
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
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How about the charging?... Is there any change in the audio when plugging in? Try lowering the vol of device as low as possible and maximize the vol of amp.
not at all. The way I have it set up, it is charging or powered the whole time. Of the 3 inputs on the adaptor, one goes to the aux in on my car stereo, one goes to a car power adaptor I installed under the dash, and the 3rd goes to the microphone. I have bluetooth on, so it works with the gps reciever I have(I have an older model without built in gps) and I programed 1 of the buttons to turn on the gps program. Another button is programed to turn on the audio player(I think it is pocket player), which feeds audio to the car stereo anytime I have the aux button pressed on the car stereo. When a phone call comes in, the song pauses and all I have to do is hit the little green answer button on the phone to use it as a speakerphone. Audio is great. I have all the wires snake into one of those little pockets on the dash so there are not a lot of wires going everywhere. Takes about 5-10 seconds to set it up when I get in the car, and about 3 seconds to disconnect when I leave.
I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
ElAguila said:
I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
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I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
thenewguy821 said:
I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
muzz3256 said:
I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 3 contacts (The metal part between the black separations) on a Headphone plug. +Left, +Right, and -Common (Used both L and R). A Stereo Phone headset has 4 contact points ( +L, +R, Mic and -Common) The Speaker in a headphone acts as a resistor in the complete circuit from the +L to -Common and +R to -Common. While it is true that FM doesn't require a loop antenna, the Phone, which requires a headset to be used as an antenna will not recognize there is a headphone connected if there is no circuit. (If there is no Speaker between the positive and negative lead of the headphone wire)
To add to this, if you use a regular headphone, rather than a phone headset, it doesn't make a very good connection, and has very limited, if any FM reception.
With regard to the bluetooth question, all you need to do is connect to bt after you plug in the headphones. I believe the evo just outputs to the last connected item.
Why bother cutting up the headphones and then not being sure if it works. Just leave the headphones plugged on as is and connect to you bt.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
ElAguila said:
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pick up a cheap set of earbuds. They are small enough they shouldn't be too bulky in your pocket.
This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...
I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You
Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?
I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.
Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black
I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!
I have a standard att galaxy note 2, not rooted.
Typically I use my bt headset to talk on the phone. Recently I learned my car has an aux line in so I can also listen to music.
I used a 3.5mm jack for a while with respecrive rca adapter to my phone. This was nice, and added bonus if my bt headset battery died, the phone conversation would play over the car's speakers and the phone's mic picks up my voice.
The cables were irritating, so I purchased a miccus bt rx thing. Small, slides right on the side of my center console, out of the way.
Music plays fine, but cannot figure out for the life of me how to get the phone conversation onto the car speakers. Instead, the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Is this possible?
Thank you for your time, sorry for the silly question.
Are you sure that the phone audio option is selected in the BT settings?
zakerny said:
I have a standard att galaxy note 2, not rooted.
Typically I use my bt headset to talk on the phone. Recently I learned my car has an aux line in so I can also listen to music.
I used a 3.5mm jack for a while with respecrive rca adapter to my phone. This was nice, and added bonus if my bt headset battery died, the phone conversation would play over the car's speakers and the phone's mic picks up my voice.
The cables were irritating, so I purchased a miccus bt rx thing. Small, slides right on the side of my center console, out of the way.
Music plays fine, but cannot figure out for the life of me how to get the phone conversation onto the car speakers. Instead, the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Is this possible?
Thank you for your time, sorry for the silly question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zakerny said:
the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply put, the problem is with the 3.5mm male plug that goes into the headset port. Does this new cable have 3 or 4 pins? If it has 4 pins (the regular 3 pins plus the one for the microphone) then if the resistance (measured in OHMs) isn't correct, then the phone should switch over to SpeakerPhone (as set in the firmware).
So in effect, there isn't a problem with your phone, its just that you may have a cable with the 4 pins, but since your radio-adapter isn't doing anything with the microphone portion, then the phone switches over as it is supposed to.
Edit: Ignore the above, I didn't realize you were doing this with a bluetooth connection. Your Bluetooth receiver may be outdated and not support the "handsfree" profile.