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Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.
Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.
Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.
Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks
Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).
Hi Guys,
I have a Seicane PX5 octa core, 4GB RAM/32GB storage unit installed in my Mitsubishi L200 pickup. Had it for over a year now, and has worked perfectly from day 1, steering wheel keys all good, bluetooth calls, navigation, audio (much better than the stock radio), etc. Got a DAB+ box hooked up, reverse camera, etc. Really happy with it, upgraded to Android 10/latest MCU over the last week, again no problems.
So, why the post ?
There is one issue I had initially. The unit came with one of the can bus decoder boxes that connects to the loom at the back of the stereo. Once fitted and I started driving, I started getting all sorts of warning lights flashing on the dashboard - airbag warnings, engine lights, etc. Reading the OBD codes it was complaining about canbus communication errors. I cleared the codes and disconnected the canbus decoder from the loom. Ever since then, no codes, and the unit works perfectly - including things like the steering wheel controls.
So my question is, should I care that the canbus box caused errors ? Does it actually do anything worthwhile ? I guess it might depend on the vehicle it's installed in. Door Open warning maybe ? Speed sensitive volume adjust (although could use GPS for that) ? I'm just wondering if it's worth trying to get a replacement or just forget about it as it doesn't do much anyway.
Thanks.
Did you get this sorted and was it a dasaita head unit thanks
scottydoguk said:
Did you get this sorted and was it a dasaita head unit thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
scottydog, apologies for not replying to this sooner, I never got a notification that someone had replied to this, and I have had cause today to revisit this issue.
The head unit I wrote about was a Seicane unit. Aside from the can bus issue described, the unit has been flawless. My solution was to just omit the can bus box, the unit worked just fine, steering wheel keys, etc al worked perfectly so I just left it.
However, I decided for Christmas to upgrade the unit to a Dasaita PX 6 unit, it will be faster, has higher resolution screen, etc. This unit also came with a can bus decoder as part of the vehicle specific unit. So I fit it, and guess what - exactly the same as with the Seicane unit - weird dashboard warnings all over the place, airbag, traction control, etc.
So, I think, no problem, just ditch the can bus box. But there are two problems this time - (1) unlike the Seicane, the Dasaita unit won't power on unless the can bus box is connected, and (2) the Dasaita unit has an application pre-installed that allows tweaking of a lot of vehicle specific settings (headlamp on time, etc) that you used to be able to set with the factory head unit, and I'm guessing can bus connection will be needed to make those work.
So I would like to get to the bottom of this and get the unit working with the can bus unit in place. I've logged an issue on the Dasaita forum so we'll see what happens there. I don't think it's the can bus decoder, I can't believe two would display the same problem, I'm pretty sure it's the can bus settings in the Factory Settings of the unit - I can certainly make the problem worse by altering those, but I haven't found anything that makes it better !
I've attached an image showing the can bus settings on the device as I installed it. My car is a 2016 L200 UK version right hand drive, it's a Totan model that didn't have sat nav as new but does have steering wheel controls, etc.
Any ideas would be appreciated !
Thanks
hi guys,
I have the same problem with my Mitsubishi Lancer 2009.
I installed a android head unit over a year a go and didn't had any problems until recently when my ABS and ASC light start being on in my dashboard. The lights keep switching on and off at irregular intervals and when i put a car tester on it showed beside the ABS error code (C2116 code) other errors on airbags and engine immobilization, all related with that android unit, errors on car CAN line.
My car has an Rokford Fosgate amplifier from factory and the sound system doesn't work without the Canbus box installed, so ditching the canbus is not an option for me.
I also ordered a new canbus box from China and i will receive the package sometime in January. I'll keep you posted how it works with new one.
If you have any other information on this topic or you find something on line, I'm really interested since the android head unit is a big upgrade for my car and i will hate to come back to original radio.
Had a problem earlier where the head unit couldn't get a GPS lock. Occasionally I need to close and re-open the satnav application to get a position, however today it just didn't work. After a few resets and it still not working I opened up the GPS Info app and it could see satellites, however it was a bit erratic. I thought it would settle down, however it didn't. I took the video of it but I can't upload it here as video's don't seem to be allowed?
Anyway it just said 'Invalid', the date, time and speed all showed 0 and the number of satellites kept flipping from 1 to 12 with varying levels of signals (23 through 43).
I had to remove the glovebox yesterday as my wife managed to rip out my USB charging socket when trying to connect her phone (AND spilt a can of Pepsi, and she wonders why I don't like her using my car...). The GPS receiver is installed above the glovebox under the dash. Its possible I damaged the cable on re-installing the glovebox but I was pretty careful.
I'll take it apart tomorrow and have a look. Is this likely the cause or could it be something else? It seems odd that it sees a lot of satellites if the GPS receiver is not connected (i.e. cable broken).
Andy
Is it an MTCD?
marchnz said:
Is it an MTCD?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a PX5 MTCD (says MTCE with MCU update). Its a GS (Xtrons) unit.
I took the head unit out this morning and tried a spare GSP antenna and it worked straight away.
I then took the glovebox out, removed the original GPS antenna, put the spare in there and re-routed the cable so it hopefully won't get crushed if I remove the glovebox again.
All working now. The GPS cable is quite flimsy. I can see on the original one where it is slightly flattened so it must have been this.
Andy
I've searched and searched but only find bits and pieces of information. So far, I haven't been able to connect enough dots to understand how this works.
Back in 2016 I purchased an Android head unit from Auto Pumpkin. I stumbled upon it by pure accident, thought it looked slick, and decided give it a shot. The radio body was Chevrolet specific so it popped right into my Express van. It also came with a canbus decoder box which I didn't know anything about but hooked up anyway and was impressed by the integration. Door status, reverse overlays, brightness control, and some other cool stuff.
Fast forward to last year, I bought another head unit for a new Chevy van but I couldn't find one that came with the canbus integration so it's installed as a standalone radio. The unit has the canbus pins on the back, but the corresponding wire harness didn't have any conductors to match up with them. It also didn't come with any type of canbus decoder. The config area in Factory Settings is still there, though.
That brings me to my first question: Are the pins on units like these still ready/capable to be connected to *something* even though the wire harnesses that come with them don't have the specific wires for it? What I'm asking is, if I purchase a Chevrolet canbus decoder separately, can I hook it up (adding the required wires) and expect it to work?
Lastly, I recently purchased yet another head unit, this time from Dasita, for my RV. It's built on a Ford chassis. Same as before, the radio has the pins (and they're labeled as canbus!), but the wire harness doesn't have wires connected to those pins.
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?
nomaxtech said:
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, just make sure you order the right one for your head unit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000875414226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2d785d7aDFgDYy&algo_pvid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7&algo_expid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7-3&btsid=0b0a556e16134130756217144e212d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_