So I purchased this case off ebay- its from a korean store. Not much regarding the store or the company the case is made by: Neim
I was looking for a high quality, nice looking with features to set it apart but also to protect the phone.
It is made out of genuine leather, dark navy blue and yellow accent latch (which is magnetic) and yellow CC/license (3) holder inside, which allows you to hold cash. There are 2 cut outs for camera/led flash and speaker.
The interior is lined in felt. The case portion where the phone sits in is plastic but that rubbery smooth texture. The top and bottom (on sides) are what clips the phone to stay in. I wish the top corners were covered like the bottom is. All buttons and ports are easily accessible. The phone though is very tightly secured.
The case can be opened and used as a stand in landscape. its quite sturdy and stays in place.
An added bonus which I liked was the included matte finish screen protector. It was easy to apply. I like it cause there are little/no finger prints.
Overall I like the case. It does add bulk to the phone, which I dont mind.
2 pictures uploaded. Will take HD pictures and video when i have some time
Looks pretty neat.
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
Can be done. The camera plastic cover is glued to the back cover from the inside?
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
bookworth said:
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
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Shouldn't kill them (maybe it will be tricky with NFC). The thing is that the frame around the phone is plastic, so that should be enough for the WiFi.
Guids said:
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
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Click to collapse
THat's a good idea. I thought about it and was wondering about the Faraday effect. But then again I would settle with anything that is not glass to be honest.
I'm sure that anybody with a CNC could make a custom backplate in POM or any other resistant plastic...
Now to find somebody on the forum with a CNC and spare time!
I made my own in acryllic plastic.
1. Cut out in 1mm acryllic sheet using the old back as a template and then cut with Exactoknife(Needs to cut/draw a line several times with exactoknife, acryllic is tough to cut, also needs to be sanded down to same size as old cover. Sanded evenly and not to fast to prevent friction heat that messes up the acryllic)
2. Take out camera lens from the old frame (Adhesive tape, easy to remove with exacto)
3. Drill a hole for camera lens using old back as template.
4. Sanded both sides from 80 to 120(Wood) then 400>600>800>1200 Silicone carbide paper(Wet)
5. Heated it up evenly with a flame on both sides to give it a darker smoked color then stuck it between two flat objects to prevent it bubbling or deforming until it cooled down.
(Heated back and forth so it didnt get too hot and had time to cool)
6. Once cool, washed with water.
7. A few smooth strokes against 1200 Silicone Carbide (Wet) to even out any irragularities
8. Dried, then a few smooth strokes with 1200 Silicone Carbide dry, sideways to have an even pattern and smooth surface.
9. Took the camera lens, glued into hole. Let dry then 1200dry sanded around camera hole to remove glue residue. (Dont sand the camera lens or you have to polish it. Major PITA..)
10. Took the top part of the black sticker from the inside of the old glass cover, cut out the top camera part as a square and stuck it around camera and flash to prevent flash bleeds.
11. Reapply new adhesive tape to the cover and reapply it and voila, waterproof again
This is my 3rd, made it last night, rushed job as I was tired wanting to sleep, so did not care about looks.
Also couldn't find one of my previous glass covers so I had to reuse the camera lens and sticker from the old plastic cover.
Resulting in the camera lens outer ring breaking off and the sticker being semi sticky and filled with bubbles. But it functions, which was the main idea.
Didnt bother about sanding it decently so there's still scratches, but it gives you an picture what it looks like.
If done properly and more patiently you can get a smoother texture, no air bubbles and a non broken lens, but once superglued that lens is stuck rocksolid.
Hey guys, is there a drawing of the back cover available?
I would like to try a 3D-print, after the second back cover is broken.
But I don't have a radius gauge and need the radius of the corners.
Thanks for your help.
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Doing this, part one
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
Barrel_Trollz said:
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
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Click to collapse
I assume that the glass they use for the camera lens is of a convex design such to scatter the light intensity for maximum coverage of the subject. It won't be so easy as just using any untreated material unless you want a dull-flash. Assuming you've already made your cuts to good tolerances, then why not just source your adhesives from the OEM itself? Save yourself some work. The proper way to apply those adhesives(as such to retain the water-resistant nature) is to use a hot plate up to 100 C and place it on the plate for a few seconds before pulling it off.
I'm mainly worried about the cut at the bottom left. It's not at all made to a good tolerance. I did buy the adhesive sticker, and I plan to use it, but some silicone wouldn't hurt on that one place.
Also, there is a bit of distortion when I look through it, so you're right. Not much I can do about it, though, but pray to the gods of diffraction.
allerd said:
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't visit this site quiet a wile.
I lent me a radius-gauge and I think I found some good values.
Unfortunately I don't have them in mind, because I gave them to a colleague, how will 3D-print the cover for me.
As I only made hand-drawing, he will transcript it into any 3D-data-file, which I will provide you here, as soon as I received the results.
So stay tuned.
The cover for the camera is still usable and I plan to insert it into the new back-cover, but I'm quite at a loss about the flashlight.
p.s. Yesterday I mounted my 4th back-cover
Accurate 3D model and curves for creating z3c back cover:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998130
Mission complete
Hi all!
I finished my metal back cover. Still a new user, so can't post images, but I just wanted to let you guys know that I completed it and the phone is 100% functional (aside from NFC, RIP).
In the end, I anodized the aluminum and used a thin plastic sheet sealed with superglue around the flash (flash works fine BTW), and gave it a little brushed finish afterwards that cut into the anodized piece ever so slightly.
I'm very happy with it, the finish on this phone is unlike any I've ever felt. Smooth, yet solid, soft, yet sturdy. The phone is cool to the touch when in standby. The camera was a bit wonky at first, but as I pressed down into the metal back it stabilized, and now seems very resilient. The anodization itself didn't go all that smoothly (took four tries), with the metal part itself ending up with an uneven finish. It being black and brushed helps, as the texture undulates, making up for the inconsistencies.
I made a post to /r/Android with images and more details. Same username as on here. Go check it out if you're interested.
Eric
Mission also complete
I finished now my 3D-printed backcover and it is quite satisfying.
I made it by using the file railpl posted.
Unfortunately it is about half a mm to short so there is a small gap on the short side, but for me it is okay.
I used the lenscover from my old glassback and drilled a tiny hole for the flashlite.
So I think it is not waterproof anymore.
I feel $60 CDN is way too much for a screen protector, so decided to experiment a little and build my own kit.
Parts used:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32841571492.html
This covers the display area perfectly, has a cutout for camera and proximity sensor
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5ML-UV-Glue...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I don't recommend this glue, it was very thick and does not flow well
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Blacklight-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
build quality is bad, but does it's job
First I had to remove the adhesive from the screen protector, do this slowly or you risk cracking the glass.
Used masking tape to cover the speaker grills. Not very useful, glue still end up it, but I cleaned it with q-tip and alcohol before curing, no issue there.
I failed on the first attempt because of the thick consistency of the glue, I had to use double the amount, most of it end up spilling off the side before it reached the full screen.
In the end, I'm very happy with the results. I do have some air bubbles visible under direct sunlight and a piece of dust off the screen. It was worth the extra work to put it on.
I haven't been following what's out on the market now, everything was ordered back in first week of January, and I just received everything this week.
I will pull out my DSLR and take some pictures later.
Could you please share the pics..
I just installed 3 amFilm Glass Protectors with black borders. Yes, I can vouch for this protector.
Pros:
- Truly edge to edge, with a tiny gap at the edges for case-friendliness
- Does not block any part of the OLED
- Clear, practically looks like a naked screen
- Smooth (wifey said: feels so smooth!)
- Fingerprint-resistant
- Black borders means no visible edges
Cons:
- Can't really think of any. I used Vivid NG gesture app and have to turn increase "Touch Sensitivity" on display settings. No biggie.
- Installation takes longer; more elbow grease to get the bubbles out.
Installation tips:
- Allow at least 15-30 minutes for a good result
- Don't follow the myth of hot shower! That's just a waste water. Seriously.
- Have a roll of masking tape. Use it to clean the screen and sides of phone. Do this by sticking the tape vertically top to bottom starting on the left edge, then peel and move slightly to the right. Repeat until all screen and sides have been 'stripped' of dust specks.
- After placing the protector on the phone, start looking for any remaining specks. Do this by gently squeeging around. Bubbles will move and can be taken care of later. Specks will stay, so you want to spot and remove them now.
- To remove a speck (most likely it would stick to the film and not the screen), fold a length of masking tape in two, so both sides are sticky, then gently lift the closest corner and slide the masking tape underneath. Careful, do not let the masking tape rub the sticky side of the glass film such that it would leave a mark. Once on the right spot, press the film down gently and re-lift it. The speck will stick to the masking tape. Slide out the masking tape and let the film drop down.
- Repeat until all specks have been removed.
- Now squeegee the bubbles out. This takes a while on this screen protector, but you'll be happy with the result!
Ps: I don't use the provided dust stickers. Masking tape works better for me.
Attached are some photos after the installation on the second phone.
Got one of these on the way, hope it installs ok and works nicely with otterbox case. Mine is a work phone and they stipulate the otterbox must stay on. I hate the thing but the S10e is a nice phone.
This supposedly case friendly screen protector had so much potential....
Feel and fit is fantastic but it does NOT classify as case friendly. I cannot get air out of it with my case on. Awesome otherwise.
The case presses on the edges and distorts it, causing some lift.
I had my screen protector installed at a phone shop and the case somehow lifted the top part abit. Couldnt get the airbubble out no matter what so i tried using a hairdryer .. 15 seconds later no more airbubble.
Took mine off. Work insists the otterbox is used so if a screen protector doesn't work with it, too bad. There's no way it was going to fit under the edges of the case.
With a normal TPU type case it should be good though.
It's good enough a fit to even have a naked phone.