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Hey All,
I've contacted OUYA support (and have a dialog going with them) about this, but thought I'd throw a line out here as well.
I've got a bluetooth Microsoft Entertainment Keyboard 7000 as well as a USB Logitech K400 keyboard.
Both work pretty well with the OUYA (though I don't use both simultaneously for obvious reasons).
One thing I've noticed, however, is that no matter what order I pair the OUYA controllers and keyboard (or connect the USB keyboard) in, the keyboard ends up being player 1 after a period of time.
Example:
Pair OUYA controller 1
Pair OUYA controller 2
Connect USB keyboard
After a day or so, and possibly a full power cycle of the device, the keyboard ends up being Player 1.
This doesn't pose an issue for the most part (the OUYA controllers display that they are players 2 and 3), but some games specifically rely on the device that is identified as Player 1 to actually be an OUYA controller in the game, and therefore I have to go through a whole rigamarole of unpairing all controllers / keyboards, disconnecting the USB keyboard, and doing a full shutdown of the device, then powering it back on and waiting for the pairing wizard to pop up so I can re-pair my controllers.
The real question here is, has anyone else experienced this, and if so have you found a viable workaround?
I'd prefer that the keyboard (whether USB or bluetooth) doesn't get detected as a controller period, but simply acts as an auxiliary means of input for fields where I need to type something in, move a mouse, etc.
Thanks!
pitcherj
Yes, I have exactly the same issue with a Logitech K400 as well. Very annoying, I haven't found a workaround yet.
I have an Ouya controller, a PS3 controller and the K400 in that order and after a while the K400 takes over controller position 1.
There needs to be some way of locking controller 1, or at least a way to quickly change controller positions from within the interface without needing to repair everything.
I had the exact same problem, after looking around for several days trying to find a way to get my controllers paired to slot 1&2. Installed the Blue Board app from the OUYA market.
I've been installed it on my phone, got to to to pair, and used it a couple of times. After that I noticed that my controllers properly paired to slot 1 & 2, and if I hook up my keyboard it properly goes into a different slot.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
Over here it is the same problem.
I use a Rapoo E2700 Keyboard with touchpad. It is connected via a seperate USB wireless-dongle.
[A little o.t. but i want to tell everybody thant the keyboard is working great! The Touchpad is super smooth and (unlike the Ouya Controller Touchpad) realy good to navigate a mouse cursor]
It would be nice if there was a menue where you could assign wich Device takes wich controller-slot. Working without a keypboard is a little annoying to me.
Same for all my keyboards, i think it might be intentional.
Everytime I plug in my keyboard dongle it causes the system to lock up and i have to restart, but if I boot with the keyboard hooked up its player 1. They need to get this fixed
Edit: It seems that removing my hub and pluging straight into the ouya works... but now I've no way to use xbox controllers...
After reading through this thread, I'm beginning to wonder if it has something to do with using keyboards meant for PC. The reason I say this is I have had my Motorola Bluetooth Keyboard made for the Xoom paired since the day i got it and it never took over any controller port, but 1 full power cycle with my Logitech USB keyboard and it took over 1st controller.
Does anyone else have a android BT keyboard they can try?
Xbox wireless dongle as well as a el'cheapo GE USB keyboard do the exact same thing... very very annoying
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk HD
JLCollier2005 said:
After reading through this thread, I'm beginning to wonder if it has something to do with using keyboards meant for PC. The reason I say this is I have had my Motorola Bluetooth Keyboard made for the Xoom paired since the day i got it and it never took over any controller port, but 1 full power cycle with my Logitech USB keyboard and it took over 1st controller.
Does anyone else have a android BT keyboard they can try?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think this is tied to USB taking priority over Bluetooth. Every USB HID I plug in ends up becoming player one.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
---------- Post added at 01:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 AM ----------
Sinderan said:
Everytime I plug in my keyboard dongle it causes the system to lock up and i have to restart, but if I boot with the keyboard hooked up its player 1. They need to get this fixed
Edit: It seems that removing my hub and pluging straight into the ouya works... but now I've no way to use xbox controllers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using a powered USB hub? My non powered USB hub does the same thing.
If a powered hub doesn't do it, it might have something to do with the power draw on that single port.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
ja450n said:
I think this is tied to USB taking priority over Bluetooth. Every USB HID I plug in ends up becoming player one.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its more just because The USB connects on boot, while the bluetooth controllers and keyboards have to be turned on. Since the USB where already there they get the first spot and the rest get whats there when they connect.
ja450n said:
Are you using a powered USB hub? My non powered USB hub does the same thing.
If a powered hub doesn't do it, it might have something to do with the power draw on that single port.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I think I need a powered hub. I left one at my moms house I'll probably go pick up today when I remember. (Wow I never thought that hub that came with Rock Band 1 on Xbox would ever be useful again lol)
https://support.ouya.tv/entries/247...A-controller-not-shown-as-Controller-1-or-if-
This is their solution.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2
Hey guys,
I just pre-ordered an Amazon Fire TV here in Germany and I have a specific question for which I didn't find an answer yet. Everybody is saying that the AFTV has basic CEC functionality. I just wanted to know what this means in detail? Which keys are working and which are not? I heard that the arrow keys and the OK/select key are working. But what about the back, the home and the multimedia buttons (play/pause etc.)? I would be very glad if someone could answer this question (espacially with a Sony Bravia TV).
Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward for an answer.
elmurato said:
Hey guys,
I just pre-ordered an Amazon Fire TV here in Germany and I have a specific question for which I didn't find an answer yet. Everybody is saying that the AFTV has basic CEC functionality. I just wanted to know what this means in detail? Which keys are working and which are not? I heard that the arrow keys and the OK/select key are working. But what about the back, the home and the multimedia buttons (play/pause etc.)? I would be very glad if someone could answer this question (espacially with a Sony Bravia TV).
Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward for an answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to know that too. I have a Samsung tv and the only cec function I can see fire tv performing is when I wake the device up from sleep it automatically shifts my tv from cable to fire tv screen and turns on the sound system if its off. But nothing on the TV remote works.
Sc0rp10 said:
I would like to know that too. I have a Samsung tv and the only cec function I can see fire tv performing is when I wake the device up from sleep it automatically shifts my tv from cable to fire tv screen and turns on the sound system if its off. But nothing on the TV remote works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my toshia the arrows and select were working. But there was no back or home.
Sony here, no back/home... seems the best u can have until a hack.
c0mm0n said:
Sony here, no back/home... seems the best u can have until a hack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn. So for now its unusable via CEC, right? Without a back button it's not possible to exit menus... Could you try the media buttons too, please? I mean play/pause/stop. Thanks!
elmurato said:
Damn. So for now its unusable via CEC, right? Without a back button it's not possible to exit menus... Could you try the media buttons too, please? I mean play/pause/stop. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure play/pause worked for me. But I just got a FLIRC. Much better and more flexible.
Not working for me. Panasonic TV.
with pi it works perfectly...
actually the TV DO recognize there's a hdmi CEC supported device but none of the buttons do something
Tested on Sanyo TV designed for use with roku.
Directions and media buttons work.
Back works (but brings up roku qr overlay)
the Exit button also functions as Back.
Hey,
My FireTV is connected to my Onkyo TX-NR626 amp and from there to my LG TV, I can control the FireTV with the remote of the Onkyo and everything is working, select, back, directions, play, pause, and skip
But you have to enter a code for a RIHD (CEC) enabled device on the remote, the code is 31612 if I'am not wrong
The only thing that is not working is you can't wake up the FireTV out of the standby
Gesendet von meinem HTC One_M8 mit Tapatalk
Sony Bravia Sync
Tested on an old KDL55-W4000!
Sony calls its CEC compatibility "Bravia Sync". With "Bravia Sync" activated, the following commands work via my TV's remote: Play, Stop, Back-Button, Forward, Rewind, Direction-Keys and Enter ...
With the Sony-Command "Sync Menu", the TV checks for connected devices at HDMI ports and even activates the FireTV from sleep-mode ... If the FireTV is activated, the same button "Sync Menu" opens the Options in FireTV (e.g. skipping to next episode or language selection)
Unfortunately, the only button not yet found by now via CEC, is the "HOME" button. By that button missing, you might get stucked, e. g. in the youtube app for FireTV, because the Back-Button does not go back to main menu of FireTV but stays in the YouTube-App and shows the Search-Site ...
If anyone has a Sony-TV, sending a "HOME"-command via CEC, please contact me, so I can properly set up my Harmony to send the command on my Sony-TV, too (sometimes, not all commands the tv is capable of, are buttons on the remote ... let's give it a try).
Hope, that has helped someone ... Please get back to me, if "Home" is available. Otherwise, I will not use YouTube-App
I don't know anything about CEC on other platforms. I just got a Fire TV two days ago.
I was very happily surprised when my TV's remote (Sony Bravia 47") worked on the Fire. My Girlfriend grabbed the TV remote as we were setting the fire up, and many of the commands were mapped to Sony remote buttons. Since I had cloned the remote to my Universal Remote URC20, it also works. I can create macros and treat the Fire TV like it has an IR remote. Very handy functionality.
All I have done is navigation, backward, forward, select, etc. Of course, you need the Fire remote for voice control.
Someone in another thread said that Samsung TVs didn't run commands back through HDMI. So, obviously ot depends on TV manufacturer.
On my LG TV, CEC is not working. In fact when Fire TV is connected CEC is not working for any device connected to the TV.
I had no problem with a rasberry PI used before I got the Fire TV.
Sc0rp10 said:
I would like to know that too. I have a Samsung tv and the only cec function I can see fire tv performing is when I wake the device up from sleep it automatically shifts my tv from cable to fire tv screen and turns on the sound system if its off. But nothing on the TV remote works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have a Samsung, I found out that Play/Pause and FF/REW are the only one's that works. lol pretty disappointing.
Latest TV firmware UE55D8000/5 v2 (there are later firmwares on the web than ota updates for some odd reason).
Latest Preerooted firmware on aFTV.
papars said:
On my LG TV, CEC is not working. In fact when Fire TV is connected CEC is not working for any device connected to the TV.
I had no problem with a rasberry PI used before I got the Fire TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. What year is the TV? My 2013 LG remote has no problem with the Fire TV.
Cec is a pita for me and my lg 55ub8500, it works fine if you have the TV on and then power the firetv on.. But if you have the firetv on and power on the TV.. It's a no go until you restart the ftv. Would be ok I'd the ftv would turn off but mine stays on like 24/7.
If your lg TV is new (2014) turn on simplink in the menus and setup your hdmi port to be a denon Avr(or any device that supports cec, not all do) and it should work
whazup2015 said:
Tested on an old KDL55-W4000!
Sony calls its CEC compatibility "Bravia Sync". With "Bravia Sync" activated, the following commands work via my TV's remote: Play, Stop, Back-Button, Forward, Rewind, Direction-Keys and Enter ...
With the Sony-Command "Sync Menu", the TV checks for connected devices at HDMI ports and even activates the FireTV from sleep-mode ... If the FireTV is activated, the same button "Sync Menu" opens the Options in FireTV (e.g. skipping to next episode or language selection)
Unfortunately, the only button not yet found by now via CEC, is the "HOME" button. By that button missing, you might get stucked, e. g. in the youtube app for FireTV, because the Back-Button does not go back to main menu of FireTV but stays in the YouTube-App and shows the Search-Site ...
If anyone has a Sony-TV, sending a "HOME"-command via CEC, please contact me, so I can properly set up my Harmony to send the command on my Sony-TV, too (sometimes, not all commands the tv is capable of, are buttons on the remote ... let's give it a try).
Hope, that has helped someone ... Please get back to me, if "Home" is available. Otherwise, I will not use YouTube-App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same on my 2013 Sony TV, the remote's HOME button functions as Android's MENU button, whilst the remote's OPTIONS button does nothing. Shame, so close to being perfect. Still hoping the Fire TV will get a working root and that we can change the HDMI-CEC options that way.
I just bought a Noname 40" TV (Hisense LTDN40D36SEU) and was really surprised that it supports CEC quite well!
Nav, OK, Play, Pause, < Skip > and even Stop (! Not even on the Fire TV Remote itself) are working perfectly.
Just hoping to find a way to get Home and Context working. As theres a way to go to a Developer-Page on the TV, even with dumping firmware Option, im optimistic to get it fixed one day. Or, even better as Spence1115 said, hopefully Someday Root on the FireTV and a way to change it over here.
i had conflict on my samsung smart tv 2014 when connecting the AFTV it also played havoc with my receiver so i have decided to use a cec less adaptor and it worked a treat just in case anyone wanted to know and if they get conflicts (mine was connecting and disconnecting all my devices randomly)
Hi.
I just got a LG 42lb5600 and I can't even see the simplink option.
No buttons work on the fire.
Is there a firmware update or something I can do?
I hope that one day we will get the ability to program certain key presses through CEC on the Fire TV. Works great with sideloaded Kodi on my fireTV Stick but sadly no context or home functionality.
When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
farfromuman said:
When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
navigates said:
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
farfromuman said:
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
cec less adaptor
i had conflict on my Samsung tv with other cec devices and the best way around it i got a cec less adaptor for the hdmi cable plugged into the AFTV this stops the AFTV conflicting with your other devices as thats what it sounds like it is doing like mine was
only downside it will not auto channel switch when waking AFTV from sleep
HeXDeMoN said:
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
navigates said:
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that would seem logical but the ARC is on HDMI2 so I would have to run an additional cable back to the Receiver. I switched to the FireTV Box and it works fine without interfering with my TV's HDMI inputs. The stick will go to the second TV in the house and if it has an issue there I will do a full reset.
Similar issue here with receiver (Denon X2000) switching to TV input (Samsung UN60F6350) in 1-2 seconds after I manually switch the input to Fire TV (box, not stick). This behavior developed over past 1-2 weeks or so, before I've been using Fire TV with no issues.
After setting HDMI control to "OFF" in receiver's Video settings it stopped switching, so my theory is that somehow my "smart" TV sends activation signal to the receiver and makes it switch. This is similar to any HDMI device starting to play, except in this case looks like TV keeps sending that signal constantly.
A quick fix, but annoying, is to just unplug the HDMI cable from the Fire TV box or Fire stick. I have had these devices for a long time and never had a problem until a few months ago. It is annoying! Every (about 30 minutes...almost like it was on a timer of sorts) time I am watching my DirecTV cable box HDMI input, it will just switch to the HDMI input that the Fire TV box (or Fire TV stick) is on. SO it has to be something that the Amazon box is sending out through the HDMI cable to the TV that causes the HDMI input to change. AMAZON needs to send out an update that eliminates that problem because it HAS TO BE in their software coding. As BIG of a problem as this is, you would think that they would have fixed this already. There are many other streaming boxes out there now that are much better, cheaper, and do not have issues like this. They stand to lose a ton of future dollars if they don't fix this problem. I have invested in 6 boxes for the 6 TV's in my home. They need to do something about this!!
Hi Everybody,
I upgraded my FireTV to the latest pre-rooted 51.1.5.0_515020820. Followed all the steps in FireTV News and used rbox's package.
The update was successful but right after update I begin to notice problems with my fire tv controller.
I takes too much time to start working, and for some reason, my Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse are not working after the update. Some times the screen saver even kicks in before the remote starts to work.
Has anybody experiencing the same kind of problems?
I'm attaching a logcat from the boot until the remote starts working.
EDIT: Just realized I had enabled USB debugging. Disabling that made at least my keyboard work again, but the mouse is not functioning. Both are connected to the same Logithech unifying dongle and both do work on a computer.
danielcbit said:
Hi Everybody,
I upgraded my FireTV to the latest pre-rooted 51.1.5.0_515020820. Followed all the steps in FireTV News and used rbox's package.
The update was successful but right after update I begin to notice problems with my fire tv controller.
I takes too much time to start working, and for some reason, my Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse are not working after the update. Some times the screen saver even kicks in before the remote starts to work.
Has anybody experiencing the same kind of problems?
I'm attaching a logcat from the boot until the remote starts working.
EDIT: Just realized I had enabled USB debugging. Disabling that made at least my keyboard work again, but the mouse is not functioning. Both are connected to the same Logithech unifying dongle and both do work on a computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Youre not the only one. I had something similar pointed out to me in another thread. Havent had time to test but logitech k400 mouse pad is having issues. Keyboard appears to work fine.
Any one else having these kinds of problems with the fire tv bluetooth control?
I also noticed that my remotes is disconnecting from FireTV randomly. Sometimes when I'm watching something, the remote does not respond. I have to wait from seconds to minutes until the remote starts to respond again.
I also have in the area my FireTv is several BLE beacons, I'm starting to think that they might have something to do with that problem.
Hi,
I tried plugging in a wired, USB mouse in the back of my Fire TV Box... I get nothing on screen. I tried a second mouse.. same result. Does the Fire Tv NOT support a mouse? I searched around online and found conflicting info. The only reason I wanted to use the mouse is to click the big "Start Test" button at the center of the screen in the Speedtest.net app I sideloaded... It can't be reached via the remote.
Thanks!
.
Well u can look for aft general tread download download an apk call wukong remote launch the app, it will search for aft in address that's what working for me
My firetv recognized my mouse with no special settings. I just plugged the mouse directly into the USB slot... same for a USB keyboard.
Mouse = old Gateway mouse
Keyboard = cheap Dynex
Did you happen to be on the default launcher when you tried? Since the last three updates the mouse cursor is invisible on the Fire TV launcher, when system menus are on the screen and inside some native Fire TV apps. I don't think the cursor being invisible effects everyone, cause only a few people said they experience the problem when I made a thread about it.It only happens if I use a USB or Bluetooth mouse, but if I use a remote mouse app like Wukong the cursor is visible on the whole system. Try opening an app that was not made for the Fire TV, like Kodi and see if it works, cause my cursor is visible inside all my apps, but if I go to the Fire Launcher it becomes invisible. Its kind of annoying not being able to see the cursor on Fire TV apps, but I have gotten used to it.
To be clear, the mouse still works its just invisible, so its kinda useless because you can't click on system menus, cause you cannot see where the cursor is. As soon as you open an app like Kodi the cursor will reappear.
Thnks everyone for the replies. I had USB debugging turned on in the developer options which knocked out my mouse. Everything is working now.