My note 2 battery temperature sensor broke. Well whenever I put it on charge it says "charging paused battery temperature too high" it shows battery temperature at 60 degree Celsius but battery is very cold.
I have flashed few times with odin, factory reset etc., used a different battery etc. problem is still there. I also replaced the usb port reflex with new one. Took it to service center and they are insisting me to change the whole motherboard which cost 8k rupee, they said the problem is in motherboard part and not the usb port. I am in india and I took it to few electronic stores and they said they are not able to repair it.
So I was thinking how I can disable the security feature which prevents battery to be charged. I know my phone battery is fine and its just the sensor that's broke. I know the risks behind it but I want it done.
If someone can guide me which component needs to be replaced on motherboard or How the disable the security feature which blocks charging at high temperature. Where this file is located so I can edit it.
Sorry for bad english I am in hurry.
my phone is rooted so I was looking through all .xml's
there should be something like "stop charging when battery temp= 50 degree"
well I think I should go to some other forum, I thought this community was helping.
Related
Hello you there. I have a problem with my beloved xperia play and i think this will be one of the best places where i may get any advice with my problem. It all started when my Play fell of my hand and the digitizer glass has broken. Although it the glass was broken the digitizer was working just fine. It is obvious that broken glass is nothing esthetically nice so i decided to buy new digi. and replace it. And so i did it. Unfortunatelly something went wrong. Play was booting, vibrating, and recieving the calls BUT there was no visual. The lcd was not working. I was 'playing' with the phone for two days trying to guess what the heck is wrong. I even managed to update the software (baseband etc) with pc companion thinking the problem lied in software. Nothing more false. The software was ok. I decided to go with my phone to the nearest phone service so they can check what has gone wrong. They told me that there was a tiny (possible to see only though microscope) scratch on the flex cable from the lcd and that it has to be replaced (whole lcd). I was really despareted because i needed the phone a lot. It serves me more like a tiny pc rather than ordinary phone. I found a small shop/phone repair center where they had this lcd. Without any hasitation i've bought and replaced it. But my xperia didnt turn on! Moreover it didnt even turn on when i pluged it to the charger. Neither of my three computers found it properly after connecting via usb cable. It just prompting the message 'unknown device'. Instead the red light was constantly flashing (not 3 times in a row, but all the time). As i browse the internet i found that it may be battery issue. And so i wend to buy third part - a new battery. After insterting the phone has booted and it was working. I thought that it is all ok but no. The battery was draining realy fast. I mean realy by from 100 to almost 0 in about 6/8 hrs - of cource with wifi turned off, as well as gps, 3g etc. Well the other option was that the battery has to be calibrated properly. Unfortunately one night i fell asleep and didnt plug in the phone to the charger. When i woke up it was turned off. I couldnt turn it on again. The battery was drained 'below' zero so even with pluged it into charger it didnt boot. The red light was blinking the same as with previous battery. Neither taking the battery off or charging it for 5 hrs and more helped. yesterday i took it again to the phone service center. Today thay said that it is a problem with motherboard and it has to be replaced eventhough the phone boots up when the battery is charged with external charger. It still drains the battery a lot and didnt stop draining till battery level reach zero, the phone turn off and it could not be awaken without external interfere. I thought that it could be because of the update. I've found many posts on the internet about some faulty working sony devices after updating. But the guys from the phone repair told me that this is not a problem and the only problem is the motherboard. I mean - c'mon -replacing lcd, replacing digitizer, replacing battery and now i have to replace my r800i motherboard. I hardly believe that i am such a bad luck. Maybe you can give me some hints what to do with it. I really dont see me going to the other phone repair center and paying for another part. It is to much for me. Is it possible that it is only the usb /entrance/ fault, or is it the software problem. Please help me!!!!
Hello guys,
I'm facing a very troublesome problem,
Whenever I plug in my GT-N71000 to my charger or the computer, the phone shows that error "Charging paused. Battery temperature too low", or if the phone is off it shows the yellow exclamation point with a thermometer.
I know that must be a really common thread here at XDA-Dev but I have searched the entire internet to find out a solution for this. What have I already done:
When it appeared for the first time I could take the battery off and put it again and sometimes it would charge whenever the phone wanted (I didn't know before that Note II had personality). I downloaded apps that monitor the battery temperature and it showed -20°C. Really freaky. Then I moved to another country and sometimes it worked. I opened it up cleaned and I could charge for some time, then it came back. I went to the Samsung Service and replaced the charging mechanism and the phone worked fine until last friday after a drunken night when this problem showed again!
It happens even with other batteries, so battery problem is ruled out. I opened the phone again and checked the PCB it looks fine, doesn't have any damage of water or any corrupt paths.
I even rooted, deleted battery stats.bin . Reflashed to stock and it's no use. What makes me believe it is some hardware problem with the thermistor that reads the battery temperature, since it was stuck in -20, -19.
Is there a way to reprogram the kernel or whatever coding is responsible for this reading to fool the phone that the battery temperature is at normal levels, so this way I could charge and use my phone normally? Has anyone any solution that I haven't tried? I want to try everything before going to Samsung again because I'm really sure they will say they have to change the whole PCB.
Thank you very much
Well, just a quick update.
I haven't found a solution yet. I bought an external charger so I can at least use my phone but haven't arrived yet. I searched and searched and the only place that I found about anyone having some sort of solution is on this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=47008088 .
But i have no idea how to patch that kind of code in my phone, nor I know if it is on the Kernel.
Anyone might wanna help? Thanks!
Hey,
My LG G3 battery's holding a charge seemingly well, but it isn't able to power the phone anymore, for some reason. Off the phone, I've managed to have six common DC motors and 12 High Intensity SMD LED's running for two days, to test the battery capacity, and it managed this feat with 30% battery remaining. It seems OK by me.
But after plugging a single high power DC engine, the battery kinda "shuts down", like it tripped a breaker or something, and only turns on again after I remove the connected device. Several other batteries I own (notably many Nokia BL-5C, originals and knock-offs) are able to hold the high power DC motor flawlessly. Using an amperimeter to hit the terminals, it briefly shows 1.1A before "turning off", while other batteries just keep powered, showing 1.4A, 1.5A on the display.
On the phone, I think that when it tries to pull a high load from the battery, the battery turns off and the phone resets. On a charger, though, it is able to run indefinitely. If I disconnect the charger and don't touch the phone, with the screen on, it'll most likely keep on, until a notification arrives, or when I touch the screen (probably the touch boost that draws energy)
The battery isn't stuffed (i.e. "fat"), looks healthy visually and it seems to hold a charge pretty well, so I don't think it's internally shorted... right? What's possibly wrong with it?
P.S.: I've already ordered two new batteries.
ilmec PM'd me, as he cannot post yet.
ilmec said:
I can't reply on the tread you open so I send you a PM
I have the same problem. The phone works only with the USB cable pluged in. Without the cable, the phone goes out to the first notification. Problem starts with the 23/12 CM13 and the 26/12 the phone turn off. I try with the solution in the CM13 tread but nothing works. Stores tell me that it is a hardware problem and not the battery. Service centers are closed until the end of the holidays. I will buy a new battery but I think it is not the solution.
Please let me know if a new battery is the solution to the problem.
Sorry for my bad english...
PS: i post the link for the CM13 tread with the guide that I tried to use thinking in a hard brick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64531740&postcount=1041
http://open-freax.fr/guide-unbrick-your-lg-g3/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/sprint-lg-g3/general/guide-fix-hard-brick-recovery-guide-t3132359
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough, it happened after a freeze and discharge overnight on CM13.
I do think it's the battery, though, because it also does that in TWRP, and my tests on the battery itself showed a weird pattern of sudden shutdown on heavy power consumption. Perhaps CM13's freeze contributed in damaging the battery, but I think the remaining of the hardware is in good shape. Mine would die on the first notification if sound is enabled, because it'd die just milliseconds after starting playing the notification sound, or just at random after I remove the power cable. I'm 98% sure it's the battery, at least in my case. I've managed to access TWRP, backup CM13, wipe the system and install the new LG Marshmallow ROM, all by using the charger cable. I've managed to boot up on the ROM, set it up and restore my Titanium Backup.
From my experience, stores always lies about "shorts" in the phone motherboard. It's a inexplicable excuse that most of the customers bite. I've had a friend taht was told his "wifi card" from his G3 had "busted", and it needed a "replacement" of the "wifi module only". As you know, the wifi module is integrated in the Snapdragon 801, so that'd be impossible if not replacing the entire SoC. He asked for my help, but I couldn't reach him. Most likely a hard reset and reflash of a stock KDZ would fix his issue, but he had to take it to a "professional", which asked for a good amount of money for "fixing" it. Probably they just did what I suggested, and took his money after a lame excuse.
I could be wrong, too. Although both our phones had similar issues after 12/23 CM13's, my case can be different than yours. One thing that I was willing to try was to rig another battery (like I said, I have many from different models) to the probably damaged LG G3 battery, to see if it holds the phone. Unfortunately, just connecting a different battery to the G3 will show a "?" mark on the screen, similar to that when you plug it in without a battery. Rigging it with the stock battery would fool the phone thinking the battery is original and is running fine, but unfortunately I cannot reach the terminals safely when the battery's connected. I'd rather just wait for the new batteries to come.
Can I post your PM to the thread? It seems very pertinent.
Thanks
I have seen batteries do all kinds of stuff. Most deff hold nominal operating voltages not just on phones but all things theyll hold nominal voltage but the actuall amperage to drive whatever isnt there. Not like a dead cell where forsay a 12 volt car batt has 6 cells 3 pos 3 neg each cell a. 2 volts per cell equalling 12 volts 1 cells bad 10 volts. Now back to even though u tested the batt i would still try a cheap bat and see the g3s are real finicky on batts normally i dont recomend a cheap batt or the bigger batts i always use the oem bat
Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?
Paleskin said:
Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"
ShadySquirrel said:
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?
Paleskin said:
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.
ShadySquirrel said:
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That plastics are the softkeys, and in the middle are the home button and micro usb port
Tried many cables, all give the same result
Hi all,
I have been running my Z1 Compact on 4.4.4 for the longest time, mainly due to sound issues after updating to Lollipop.
Recently, the battery has been dropping randomly from 60 odd percent to 3 or 4 and then shutting down all within a few seconds. The last time it did this, I tried charging it when I got home but the charging light would not stay on, thus it was not charging. All typical signs of battery failure due to age.
Having already replaced the battery successfully on my Z1, I bought a replacement original Sony battery and replaced it. The problem persisted. On first boot, the phone got to the blue waves then black screen, and power off. Charging screen just showed the battery at about 40%.
I risked it and flashed the latest software with Flashtool, having done a complete wipe. The result of this proved no better, but I did get a different message on the charging screen, a message saying the phone had shut down due to overheating. Picture is attached.
The phone is in no way overheating and I've even booted it while sat on a shelf in the fridge to help dissipate any heat generated but with no luck.
So, the old battery maybe did overheat and caused the phone to shut down, I'll accept that as a probability. It may have even damaged something, but I don't think that's likely.
After changing the battery, I would have expected the problem to resolve itself, but it seems like some kind of hardware 'flag' has been raised that is now not allowing the phone to boot in case it overheats again.
Does anyone know of any way to resolve this, reset the 'flag' per se, other than going to Sony? The phone is definitely out of warranty due to its age, never mind me taking the back off lol
It is a shame because it has been a great phone over the years, and I would like to fix it if possible, even if to give it to one of the grandkids. I have my Z3 still (which I won't part with for anything) and I have an XZ too and both are great phones. I would just like to save the XZ1c if I can.
The phone is not, and has never been modified in any way, no rooting, no bootloader unlocking. Only stock roms have ever been flashed, and then only once or twice, to put it back on 4.4.4.
I have tried reflashing just the kernel, or just the system too, to no avail.
In desperation I even left it in the fridge for a few hours in case the temperature sensor was on the fritz, but that did nothing at all.
I just feel like there's nothing actually wrong with the phone, apart from this trigger that won't reset.
Any help greatly appreciated of course.
Thanks,
Mick
Maybe theres lot of consideration:
1. Rom Bugs
2. The Kernel not supported well
3. Battery Issues (But you already change it right)
There are two temperature sensors afaikin our phone. One in the SOC and another one in the battery (hence three pins).
The battery is probably the one giving the high temp report. Try yet another battery.
A bad battery normally heats up very fast inside and the battery temp sensor stops the battery from charging and/or working to protect the phone and the battery.
I changed my battery before when it had symptoms like yours 100-90-0 drop and after replacing with a battery from eBay it was OK. I gave it a full charge then complete discharge and then complete charge to full cycle the battery once and let the phone Guage its full capacity. one year later now my battery is acting funny again (not charging past 30%) and getting so hot when charging it triggers overheat control service in Android.
Any luck?
Apologies for the necro. But did you ever fix this issue, having the same problem
Karter Ires said:
Apologies for the necro. But did you ever fix this issue, having the same problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I never did figure it out. I've been loathe to spend more money on another battery when I've got other much newer phones. I really have no idea why it would not reset once the battery was replaced, maybe it's the replacement battery.
Have you tried changing the battery?
I've tried flashing different stock roms, Kit Kat, Lollipop, and it doesn't help.
Short of going to Sony, I'm not sure what else to do.