[Q] T210 driving down new battery to 0.37v - Galaxy Tab 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I have a t210
its totally dead, tried loads of psu, cables, removing the battery and reinserting it.
Holding down keys everything.
I took the plung and bought a new battery.
Its out of the tablet the both batteries read 2.74v on a fluke dvm, inserted in the the tablet they read 0.37v.
wont charge or detect in a pc,
could be failed component, loads of smd components some are diodes etc.
could be usb socket knackered.
What I need is a schem or picture showing diodes or resistors or fuses.

Photd the whole board.
belled out the usb, all ok, only the two pins showing continuity.
Ebay battety not even registering power now.
original 2.67volts.
tested a few components. Diodes, fuses and capacitors. All ok.
was working ok then dead, kids were using it so im sure the battery was depleted to death.
will not odin recovery as will not power up at all.
any ideas

cracker666 said:
Photd the whole board.
belled out the usb, all ok, only the two pins showing continuity.
Ebay battety not even registering power now.
original 2.67volts.
tested a few components. Diodes, fuses and capacitors. All ok.
was working ok then dead, kids were using it so im sure the battery was depleted to death.
will not odin recovery as will not power up at all.
any ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But The battery voltage is to low.
Is The battery Bull charged you Have normale 4.1 Volt.The minimum Voltage for use are ~ 3.4Volt .

bierma32 said:
But The battery voltage is to low.
Is The battery Bull charged you Have normale 4.1 Volt.The minimum Voltage for use are ~ 3.4Volt .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can these be charged with a rc model nimh charger, shame I dont have 2x of these pads

New battery from eBay just not charging up properly.
Ohh well tried many leads and charger from 10.1, galaxy s4, googlechrome cast. 12v

cracker666 said:
Can these be charged with a rc model nimh charger, shame I dont have 2x of these pads
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can charged with a one RC model, but with low Ampere.

Offcourse you can try charging a lithium battery with a non lithium charger. But I'll tell you now DON'T!
theres a 80% change it will blow up.
Lithium batterys that are on to low voltage for long are DEAD (as in not living anymore and not able to bring back either).
You need a special lipo charger for this. Ask some of your RC friends or something, as i dont know anyone who still uses NIMH (or NICAD for that matter) anymore.
If you treat your Lithium battery good, it will be good to you too. If you muck around with it its gonna burn you or even poison you with its dangerous vapors.
Have fun with it.
ps heres a little bit of info for yah: https://learn.adafruit.com/li-ion-and-lipoly-batteries/voltages Read the text in the red.

Related

Electrical question - charging - power

Hello everybody,
Since the best phone ever died (or better: drown) on me (HTC Universal OFCOURSE!). I had to look for a replacement and TP2 seemed like the best of bad things. LOL!
I noticed that the wall charger had a 5V -1A(mpere) output. My (standard) car charger has a 5V - 0,5 A output. So I got the notice "your current power supply... not enough ...close some ...."
Besides the fact that e.g. tomtom uses more than the charger can give, i was wondering :
is it BAD for my battery charging at 0,5A instead of 1A ?
how much A does a laptop give when charging my TP2 trough USB port?
HAs this got sth to do with the fact that in some programs there is an option like "do not charge while connected to PC?"
I know this is more of an offtopic question, but I hope there is somebody with enough electrical knowledge to help me out! I posted it also in the general section, but since it is an TP2 issue maybe it is better placed here.
Sorry for possible inconvenience!
THX!
Kjoere
Each USB port churns out 5V at 500mA max (i.e., 0.5A).
Thank you mesquire,
Do you have any idea what the effect is of charging with different AMpere?
E.g. my BT-earphone has 180mA - so better not charge this through laptop I suppose (too much is never a good thing) - but the otherway charging with less A, that I haven' got a clue ...
C.
You can face problems that it starts to charge, but stops after x minutes.
I have replaced my carcharger with the original HTC CC C100 which delivers 1Amp.
Never had any charging problems with that one.
Hi ronh,
replacing is ofcourse an option, but I was mainly wondering what the possible effects could be on the battery. On a Dutch site I found that Lithium-Ion batteries have no memory effect so all ampères below should be "theoretically" be ok.
Greetz,
C.
Curehead said:
Thank you mesquire,
Do you have any idea what the effect is of charging with different AMpere?
E.g. my BT-earphone has 180mA - so better not charge this through laptop I suppose (too much is never a good thing) - but the otherway charging with less A, that I haven' got a clue ...
C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can expect longer charge times through USB port than with the supplied charger.
A USB flash drive draws only about 100mA from the port, so the port should provide just enough power to charge your Bluetooth handsfree (but do make sure the device needs 5V to operate or you could fry it).
Hi mesquire,
thanx again, but I am still in the dark. You seem to make a difference between a USB port (500mA) and a USB flash drive (100mA), but i don't understand this (maybe my english isn't good enough ).
Do i understand you correctly is i say that the device connected also has sth to say in how much power comes out?
I thought the ampere is sth like a 'flow of current' and when more comes out than wanted by the receiver, it euh likes ... flood (too much current) the device (and does damage). Does this make any sense?
Ciao,
Kjoere
Your device will only pull the amount of amps required,
as long as the input voltage is the same you should be fine.
you will be OK to charge the phone at 500ma however this will take longer to charge,
I charge mine using my laptop regularly - that matches your car charger at 500ma,
you may find however, when using gps etc, that you are draining more power than being supplied by the charger and the battery will begin to discharge.
hope this makes sense,
Steve
Curehead said:
Hi ronh,
replacing is ofcourse an option, but I was mainly wondering what the possible effects could be on the battery. On a Dutch site I found that Lithium-Ion batteries have no memory effect so all ampères below should be "theoretically" be ok.
Greetz,
C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they do have a memory, but the software/charger will not let you damage the battery.
anyway, assuming the battery can be charged at 1C (up to 2C is possible with some batteries, but can adversely affect battery life) you can theoretically charge the battery at a maximum of 1.5 amps safely. (assuming 1,500Mah battery)
TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.
fraser said:
TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.
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Click to collapse
are you sure ?? i went to the power settings and it says main battery: Li-ion
which i presume stands for lithium ion ?
Lithium Ion doesn't have memory.
Nickel Cadmium and Nickel MetalHydride have meory: i.e. if you charge it when it's at 70%, the next time it gets down to 70% it will think it's empty as it "remembers" that as the charging point.
With Lithium Ion you can charge them at any moment, ergo no charge. Adn they too have a life of about 500 charges.
fraser said:
TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery in my TP2 says LI-ION on the back, so perhaps some are LI-Po and some LI-ion? may go some way to explaining why some people are happy with their battery life and some not so.
Tom
Shouldn't really matter truth be told. As long as they have a rating of 1500mah they should last the same amount.
frogfoot said:
The battery in my TP2 says LI-ION on the back
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Click to collapse
Are you sure it doesn't say "Li-ion Polymer"? There is a distinction, particularly in cost!
fraser said:
Are you sure it doesn't say "Li-ion Polymer"? There is a distinction, particularly in cost!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my australian TP2 says Li-ion in big letters, and Li-ion Polymer in the fine print
The difference is in cost, and weight, but the end result in a cell phone or pda is more or less the same due to the low power demands.
My TP2 battery says Li-ion on the actual label itself.
thanx
rosebud said:
Your device will only pull the amount of amps required,
as long as the input voltage is the same you should be fine.
you will be OK to charge the phone at 500ma however this will take longer to charge,
I charge mine using my laptop regularly - that matches your car charger at 500ma,
you may find however, when using gps etc, that you are draining more power than being supplied by the charger and the battery will begin to discharge.
hope this makes sense,
Steve
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Steve,
Thx man! So now i Know i only have to worry about voltage. So I can charge my earphone in my car (which only wants 180mA) and my phone (1A). You are right that it sometimes (navigation, BT) uses more power than it gets (500mA), I get some message saying that by the way.
Any way thanx a lot !
Cureheaded

Warning about fastboot on Evo

Just want to give everybody a heads up about fastboot on the Evo. First I'll give a little background of the things I have done with my phone.
Root & Nand Unlock
Running CM7 Nightly build #26
Custon Splash Screen and Bootloader
Nothing special about it but it was a work in progress..
Now onto the warning.
I had my phone in fastboot mode working on pushing a different Splash Screen to my phone when I realized that I was late for picking my girl up from work. Looking back now this was a dumb idea, but I decided to just leave and pick her up and I would finish when I came back. Meaning that I left my phone plugged into the computer in fastboot mode and I had the command prompt up as I was typing in the code to push the image. When I returned home my phone was off. I also realized that the charging light wasn't on. I tried turning on the screen and nothing. Tried booting into recovery and nothing again. So i decided to unplug it from the computer and plug it straight into the wall hoping that might help. I was wrong. 30 minutes later still no charging light at all. Not even blinking. Not exactly sure what caused the bricking of my Evo. If it was leaving it in the fastboot screen to long, having it plugged into my computer, having the command prompt up or maybe a combination of all of them.
So moral of the story is don't do this lol.
Wow, sorry to hear that. Have you tried removing the battery for a couple minutes? then put back in and plug in to charge?
My sisters phone was absolutely dead and wouldnt come on and no charge light. It took several attempts of pulling the battery, re-inserting it before the charge light came back on. (If im not mistaken the phone does not charge in fast boot, so maybe your battery is super dead like hers)
Yea, I would definitely try a known good battery before letting your Evo RIP. Sometimes li-po batteries get dead to the point that they wont take a charge.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
elegantai said:
Wow, sorry to hear that. Have you tried removing the battery for a couple minutes? then put back in and plug in to charge?
My sisters phone was absolutely dead and wouldnt come on and no charge light. It took several attempts of pulling the battery, re-inserting it before the charge light came back on. (If im not mistaken the phone does not charge in fast boot, so maybe your battery is super dead like hers)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fantastic call!!!! My girl also has an Evo so I stole her battery and put it in my phone and presto it works just fine. So now I have my battery in her phone on the charger. It has been a little over 2 1/2 and still nothing. So I am thinking that the battery might just be permanently dead. If that's all that happened then I am satisfied. I can handle buying a new battery but I really didn't want to get a new phone. Thanks to both of you guys "elegantia" and "k2buckley". I appreciate your posts
obrien84 said:
Fantastic call!!!! My girl also has an Evo so I stole her battery and put it in my phone and presto it works just fine. So now I have my battery in her phone on the charger. It has been a little over 2 1/2 and still nothing. So I am thinking that the battery might just be permanently dead. If that's all that happened then I am satisfied. I can handle buying a new battery but I really didn't want to get a new phone. Thanks to both of you guys "elegantia" and "k2buckley". I appreciate your posts
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to help, and glad you got it going again! What a relief for you! Yea, these batteries don't like to die completely, despite what some people say. The fact is, lithium polymer/lithium ion batteries don't like to be drained to 0. But at least it's just a bad battery. Check on ebay, I've heard good results about some of the cheap ones on there. And best buy also has a 1750mah battery, that is the same physical size as stock, but has a little more juice (stock is 1500mah). Good luck.
You can pick up a brand new OEM battery off of Amazon for $13. I'd go that route before the 1750 mAh batteries off eBay. The tests I've seen show they actually have less capacity than the stocker.
Also, this may be kind of pseudosciency but try putting the battery in the freezer for a few minutes and then popping it right on a charger.
k2buckley said:
Glad to help, and glad you got it going again! What a relief for you! Yea, these batteries don't like to die completely, despite what some people say. The fact is, lithium polymer/lithium ion batteries don't like to be drained to 0. But at least it's just a bad battery. Check on ebay, I've heard good results about some of the cheap ones on there. And best buy also has a 1750mah battery, that is the same physical size as stock, but has a little more juice (stock is 1500mah). Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's so wierd because my phone was fully charged when I left the house. So unless fastboot drains your battery like "super quick" I am shocked to say the least. I'm willing to try anything with the current battery I have so I might take the advice of "eventer289" and throw it in the freezer and then on the charger. Not sure what I will do yet if I have to purchase another battery but one thing is for sure, my girl is definitely not going to let me keep her battery so whatever I decide I am going to have to do it quick lol. Thanks again for all the advice
Let me know if it works. I've read about the freezer thing to revive lithium ion laptop batteries, so I figure what the hell, give it a shot.
Your battery got to low and that's why it won't charge it, I had the same thing happen to me last week. I just cleaned up my phone using my spare and took it in to sprint with the bad one back in it. They gave me a new one for free.
eventer289 said:
Let me know if it works. I've read about the freezer thing to revive lithium ion laptop batteries, so I figure what the hell, give it a shot.
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Click to collapse
I will let you know for sure. I accidentally left it in the freezer overnight lol. I just pulled it out and put it in the charger. It isn't showing a charge light but I will keep you posted.
xHausx said:
Your battery got to low and that's why it won't charge it, I had the same thing happen to me last week. I just cleaned up my phone using my spare and took it in to sprint with the bad one back in it. They gave me a new one for free.
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Click to collapse
My girls phone isn't rooted. So I might just take hers in with the battery and do this. Not a bad idea at all. Thanks
Update- Have had battery plugged in for four hours now and nothing. So final conclusion is that the battery is shot!!! Sprint, here I come lmao!!
yes.. take it to sprint.. you have 1 yr warranty..
99% sure they will just give you a new battery. if they have one!
Dan330 said:
yes.. take it to sprint.. you have 1 yr warranty..
99% sure they will just give you a new battery. if they have one!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's wha I'm hopin
The problem is, I think in certain modes - such as fastboot, the charging code isn't present. If you leave the device unattended, it drains and drains, even if plugged in (notice no charge light in recovery mode either, when plugged in). As stated, if the voltage falls too low, it won't accept a charge. There's probably some way of reviving the battery, but why bother. Hopefully the OP learned his lesson.
Lithium chargers have a built in safety that will check for minimum voltage before attempting to charge the battery. The EVO has this safety mechanism built in. The method to bring the battery back is to charge it in a dumb charger until the voltage reaches high enough for the EVO to recognize it as a proper battery and then charge it. I've never had to do this on a mobile battery but have done it a few times on Lithium Polymer packs for R/C planes. Some cheap Chinese chargers don't check voltage before charging. You could try jumping the terminals from a good pack to the dead pack for a few minutes being careful to jump the exact same terminal on both batteries. It's worth a shot. Excessive discharge can ruin the battery life going forward but you won't really know until you try. I would monitor both packs for excessive heat just in case but in all likelihood you'll be fine connecting them for a few minutes to boost the voltage on the dead pack. You can always get a two pack of batteries and an external charger on eBay for around $20.
^^^^ good info.. on why it is not taking a charge
Probably should change the topic now since this has nothing to do with fastboot. Simply having cmd open with stuff typed in it won't do anything to your phone.
gpz1100 said:
The problem is, I think in certain modes - such as fastboot, the charging code isn't present. If you leave the device unattended, it drains and drains, even if plugged in (notice no charge light in recovery mode either, when plugged in). As stated, if the voltage falls too low, it won't accept a charge. There's probably some way of reviving the battery, but why bother. Hopefully the OP learned his lesson.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh believe me I have learned my lesson lol.
ENCXBG1 said:
Lithium chargers have a built in safety that will check for minimum voltage before attempting to charge the battery. The EVO has this safety mechanism built in. The method to bring the battery back is to charge it in a dumb charger until the voltage reaches high enough for the EVO to recognize it as a proper battery and then charge it. I've never had to do this on a mobile battery but have done it a few times on Lithium Polymer packs for R/C planes. Some cheap Chinese chargers don't check voltage before charging. You could try jumping the terminals from a good pack to the dead pack for a few minutes being careful to jump the exact same terminal on both batteries. It's worth a shot. Excessive discharge can ruin the battery life going forward but you won't really know until you try. I would monitor both packs for excessive heat just in case but in all likelihood you'll be fine connecting them for a few minutes to boost the voltage on the dead pack. You can always get a two pack of batteries and an external charger on eBay for around $20.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely good advice. I'll have to try this for sure
sirmx said:
Probably should change the topic now since this has nothing to do with fastboot. Simply having cmd open with stuff typed in it won't do anything to your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't think it did but I like I said in the OP I was so shocked to see this had happened when I came home that I really wasn't going to rule anything out.

Project: Wiring two batteries together

I recently got a Seido extended battery case and I thought I could fit two regular batteries in order use one battery and have another battery there in the unit as a spare. As I thought about this however, why beat the bush?
Why not think of a way to connect the two batteries with a piece of electrical tape and have a cheap ~$6 3000mah battery. Thoughts?
Well..you could always wire the contacts together, that way the contacts on the phone hit both of them at the same time. However, you would have to worry about over powering the phone (too much current to it). So..probably wouldn't be worth it. However, if you have insurance you could always try it...
I actually thought of this before and was about to run to radioshack when I ran into a snag....
I was going to wire them up using a relay so when there was no charge on the original battery it would auto switch to the other. E.g. only one battery connected at a time.
Problems:
1. Phone would shutdown when the relay switched, not too big of an issue as you would just turn phone back on.
2. I think phone would shut off before relay would switch, due to Android turning phone off before battery is truely dead
3. Charging would be an issue due to relay
4. All the relays I found were pretty big
As far as wiring two batties at once to increase capacity. There's only 2 ways to do it:
1. Parralell (Wiring + to + and - to - and one battery entirely to load) which will end up with the same voltage as one battery but twice the amps!
2. Series (wiring - from one battery to load, + from other battery to load, then remaining - and + together) which will double the volts but the amps will be the same!
P.S. I'm not a licensed electrician...
Well ur gonna have to do alot of thinking. What ur gonna have to do is hok up 2 battery's to 1 circuit board otherwise you will blow up the battery's and fry your phone. So be careful and solder right. Do a good job and don't mess it up completely.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Kept thinking about it and here is the easiest way to do it...and the reasoning why it will work.
1. If you are to do it you will need 2 identical batteries. Same make, model, and age...preferably new. Otherwise one will degrade.
2. Running in parallel WILL double mAh or discharge rate. I didn't think so at first but it will.
3. Since we can't supply the phone with more volts than it can handle we cannot wire the batteries in series.
4. So we must wire them in parallel, this will double batteries mAh, volts will remain equal to one battery, and double the amps.
5. Doubling the amps should not hurt phone as it will only use what it needs. It is bad to have less amps but not more.***
So, according to my original battery specs if I were to wire two together the end result would be:
3000mAh 3.7V @ 2A
To my knowledge this should work fine.
There is only 2 things that should be verified by an electrician - i.e. not me.
***1. I know more amps is OK, but doubling them I am not sure about. The phone SHOULD only draw at 1A regardless.
2. Charging with the batteries connected together should be OK, this is why I said to make sure their identical. But I would still recommend charging them separately as this is where most damage can be caused to batteries.
You would be fine with them in parallel, amperage is a nonissue as amps are pulled not pushed, charging I'm not sure about I don't know how the charging circuit works in these phones.
Ps I am a licensed electrician
If you ever take one of those cheap Chinese 3500 mah batters apart its just two smaller batteries hooked together and wrapped up.
Well that is all any battery is, a groping of cells. And the cells inside of a single battery are paired to match the exact specs the phone requires.
P.S. I actually have another battery on its way in the mail. I had my warranty send me one so I have a spare. If it is identical to my current one, which it should be, I will test this idea out.
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
rugedraw said:
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More or less just to do it, and I have warranty with no down payment so I can get new phone.
rugedraw said:
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This ^
Why spend the time and risk damaging your phone?
I can understand the curiosity, as this has crossed my mind before as well, but i figured it simply wasn't worth the time/money/effort
dowmace said:
You would be fine with them in parallel, amperage is a nonissue as amps are pulled not pushed, charging I'm not sure about I don't know how the charging circuit works in these phones.
Ps I am a licensed electrician
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm an electrical engineer and this is correct. The circuit (phone) will draw the amperage needed to run regardless of capacity.
This is the same deal if you get a laptop charger. If your laptop takes 12VDC at 5A and you use a 12VDC that is capable of 12A, you won't hurt your laptop, as the laptop will only pull 5A max from the charger. If you use a 14VDC at 5A you will probably fry something on your mainboard.
Similarly, if your phone takes a 5V .5A charger and you use a 5V 1A you don't fry your phone.

Is it ok to leave device connected to computer at 100% battery?

Hi is it OK to leave our device connected to the computer at 100% battery level? I develop android apps and there are times I need to debug and have my device connected for hours for debugging. At 100% level, I noticed the device is not heating up and I assume this wouldn't damage the li-ion battery or would it?
Does this device have an ic chip to handle overcharging ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
geocine said:
Hi is it OK to leave our device connected to the computer at 100% battery level? I develop android apps and there are times I need to debug and have my device connected for hours for debugging. At 100% level, I noticed the device is not heating up and I assume this wouldn't damage the li-ion battery or would it?
Does this device have an ic chip to handle overcharging ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not good for the battery. Lithium batteries don't like to be fully charged all the time.
I don't know about chips, but it must have overcharge protection, otherwise the battery would go up in flames.
geocine said:
Hi is it OK to leave our device connected to the computer at 100% battery level? I develop android apps and there are times I need to debug and have my device connected for hours for debugging. At 100% level, I noticed the device is not heating up and I assume this wouldn't damage the li-ion battery or would it?
Does this device have an ic chip to handle overcharging ?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lithium batteries does have overcharge protection.
Sent from my Nexus 7 (2013) using Tapatalk 4
I've had no issues doing it with a few devices and my battery has never had issues, I always plug my devices in and let them charge overnight whether they need it or not
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
From what I have read, there isn't a need for concern. The device automatically cuts off charging at 99-100% and there is overcharge protection. Unless I am missing something.
Great now i can sleep at night without worrying my phone getting overcharged
LoVeRice said:
Great now i can sleep at night with worrying my phone getting overcharged
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've noticed that (at least when it's close to being full) that the kernel watches it like a hawk. It seems to be checking on things every 20 seconds according to the dmesg output. It's reporting the voltage, temp and calculated charge level each time around.
Muikkuman said:
Lithium batteries does have overcharge protection.
Sent from my Nexus 7 (2013) using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am really curious if it does really have because I have an li-ion battery on my Samsung galaxy ace and I have been doing the same thing. But now the battery performance is a lot lower compared to when I first had it. What seems to be the reason? Is it true for all lo-ion batteries?
geocine said:
I am really curious if it does really have because I have an li-ion battery on my Samsung galaxy ace and I have been doing the same thing. But now the battery performance is a lot lower compared to when I first had it. What seems to be the reason? Is it true for all lo-ion batteries?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has been said before, but here we go again: Things that are BAD for your LiIon/LiPoly battery:
-storing your battery at full charge (which is essentially what you are doing)
-running down the battery to "0%", i.e. < 3.40 V repeatedly
-heat
-very fast discharges (not possible with a smartphone)
-very fast charges (again not possible)
So, if you want to get the best life out of your battery, it is definitely NOT advisable to leave it connected to the charger at all times. It will (or should) not get overcharged, but simply being at full charge for a prolonged time damages the cell more than being used in a normal fashion.
And yes, all LiIon batteries in phones have overcharge protection, because LiIon batteries burst into flames at just about 4.55 V (which is obviously very close to the full charge voltage) and companies want to avoid that in general.
I'm just going to leave this here.
The HTC one has a hardware circuit, as well as software on a PMIC (Power Management Integrated Circuit -- a tiny chip that acts as a micro processor) that shunts current away from the mainboard and battery once the battery has been fully charged. You could leave it charging for weeks at a time and have little to no effect on the battery or the device.
Most consumer electronic devices have the same protection, and have for years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taken from: http://forums.androidcentral.com/htc-one/288313-safe-charge-battery-overnight.html#post2859433
Valynor said:
Has been said before, but here we go again: Things that are BAD for your LiIon/LiPoly battery:
-storing your battery at full charge (which is essentially what you are doing)
-running down the battery to "0%", i.e. < 3.40 V repeatedly
-heat
-very fast discharges (not possible with a smartphone)
-very fast charges (again not possible)
So, if you want to get the best life out of your battery, it is definitely NOT advisable to leave it connected to the charger at all times. It will (or should) not get overcharged, but simply being at full charge for a prolonged time damages the cell more than being used in a normal fashion.
And yes, all LiIon batteries in phones have overcharge protection, because LiIon batteries burst into flames at just about 4.55 V (which is obviously very close to the full charge voltage) and companies want to avoid that in general.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a very clear explanation. Is it possible to disable charging when connected to computer (programatically)?
It is really a pain to disconnect it every time I hook it up on a computer for debugging and it wouldn't even guarantee to discharge when I hook it up and disconnect when not debugging since I do it frequently. When debugging, everytime I change and compile code I need to hook it up to the computer. I am debugging games and sometimes smali files so an emulator is not really an option.
geocine said:
That is a very clear explanation. Is it possible to disable charging when connected to computer (programatically)?
It is really a pain to disconnect it every time I hook it up on a computer for debugging and it wouldn't even guarantee to discharge when I hook it up and disconnect when not debugging since I do it frequently. When debugging, everytime I change and compile code I need to hook it up to the computer. I am debugging games and sometimes smali files so an emulator is not really an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it would be possible by modifying the Android kernel.
The best practical advice is probably: Buy only smartphones with exchangeable batteries. :cyclops:
Valynor said:
Has been said before, but here we go again: Things that are BAD for your LiIon/LiPoly battery:
-storing your battery at full charge (which is essentially what you are doing)
-running down the battery to "0%", i.e. < 3.40 V repeatedly
-heat
-very fast discharges (not possible with a smartphone)
-very fast charges (again not possible)
So, if you want to get the best life out of your battery, it is definitely NOT advisable to leave it connected to the charger at all times. It will (or should) not get overcharged, but simply being at full charge for a prolonged time damages the cell more than being used in a normal fashion.
And yes, all LiIon batteries in phones have overcharge protection, because LiIon batteries burst into flames at just about 4.55 V (which is obviously very close to the full charge voltage) and companies want to avoid that in general.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have we gone back to 1985?
Where's my tinfoilhat?
Aliens n stuff!
kitch9 said:
Have we gone back to 1985?
Where's my tinfoilhat?
Aliens n stuff!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you don't know much about LiIon battery chemistry, perhaps you want to research a little bit?
Valynor said:
If you don't know much about LiIon battery chemistry, perhaps you want to research a little bit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Facepalm.gif.
Op said he connects his machine for HOURS. If he said YEARS I'd agree with you, all li-ion modern batteries have circuits which moderate their charge cycle to condition the battery when plugged in. When your device is plugged in it doesn't actually mean the battery is charging if it doesn't need it then it won't be. You might want to research that.
kitch9 said:
Facepalm.gif.
Op said he connects his machine for HOURS. If he said YEARS I'd agree with you, all li-ion modern batteries have circuits which moderate their charge cycle to condition the battery when plugged in. When your device is plugged in it doesn't actually mean the battery is charging if it doesn't need it then it won't be. You might want to research that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course its not charging if its full, otherwise it would go up in flames. But Valynor is right, storing lithium batteries fully charged is not good for the battery.
poisike said:
Of course its not charging if its full, otherwise it would go up in flames. But Valynor is right, storing lithium batteries fully charged is not good for the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which is awesome, but that was not what the OP was asking. All Li-ion batteries have overcharge/discharge protection which means the OP can do as he has asked without worrying.
Banging on about how he might die in a fire is a little..... Hyperbolic?

Couple Battery Questions

Got 2 new batteries and I want to keep them for a while, so I have a few questions:
1. Is the OEM fast-charge charger and cable okay to use every day, or will it degrade the battery faster than a slower/regular speed charger/cable?
2. Since I have 2 batteries now, which is the best way to charge them both up? charge 1 in the phone, then swap and charge the other in the phone? Or buy a battery charger (and if so, which one)?
3. Any other helps regarding the chargers and/or cables?​Thank you for your help.
Faster charging will always generate more heat and put more stress on the battery, so slower charging would be better for a battery's lifespan, but I don't think you'll see a huge difference within two years.
By far the fastest way to keep going is having the second battery charged in an external battery charger and then swap when the other battery gets low, followed by charging the low battery in the external charger. Doing it this way also puts the least wear-and-tear on the phone's charging port since you'll rarely use it. I use LG's OEM external battery charging cradle (BCK-5200), but it may be hard to find nowadays. There's currently a used one up for sale in an auction by an American seller on eBay, and there are new ones from a South Korean seller for a higher fixed price. I wouldn't pay more than $25 for one. As for charging time, for me, it takes about 4 hours to charge my MaxxxJuice 4100 mAh batteries from ~5–10% to full. External chargers do not fast-charge, so you'll never put too much stress on the battery that way. Of course, swapping may not be for everyone as it may be inconvenient to take a case off and put it back on.
Unlike the older microUSB cables, bad USB Type-C cables that are not built to certain specifications can draw higher currents and destroy the devices they are charging. A few years ago, a Google engineer reviewed lots of USB-C cables on Amazon to give his view on those. If you need a third-party cable, make sure you get one from a reputable source with good reviews. My preferred USB cable is Anker's Powerline+ due to their extra strength/thickness, and I don't need much flexibility/twistability in my cables. Also, I like how the USB-C end connector is made of one single piece where you don't see any connecting lines around the middle (you can see an example here).
Other thoughts:
As long as there is a supply of extra batteries around and you can afford to buy them when the time comes, then you shouldn't worry much about how you charge your phone. In my opinion, that is one of the main selling points of having a hand-removable battery. I imagine a paranoid person on a phone with a sealed battery would be trying to keep the battery level between 40 and 80% at all times. So really, the only thing to worry about is having a decent USB-C cable and making sure the phone's charging port is clean and not worn out.
In case you are really interested on my detailed charging habits and related things on my V20, I discussed them while reviewing my batteries a while back on the V20 Subreddit.
Thanks!
C D said:
Faster charging will always generate more heat and put more stress on the battery, so slower charging would be better for a battery's lifespan, but I don't think you'll see a huge difference within two years.
By far the fastest way to keep going is having the second battery charged in an external battery charger and then swap when the other battery gets low, followed by charging the low battery in the external charger. Doing it this way also puts the least wear-and-tear on the phone's charging port since you'll rarely use it. I use LG's OEM external battery charging cradle (BCK-5200), but it may be hard to find nowadays. There's currently a used one up for sale in an auction by an American seller on eBay, and there are new ones from a South Korean seller for a higher fixed price. I wouldn't pay more than $25 for one. As for charging time, for me, it takes about 4 hours to charge my MaxxxJuice 4100 mAh batteries from ~5–10% to full. External chargers do not fast-charge, so you'll never put too much stress on the battery that way. Of course, swapping may not be for everyone as it may be inconvenient to take a case off and put it back on.
Unlike the older microUSB cables, bad USB Type-C cables that are not built to certain specifications can draw higher currents and destroy the devices they are charging. A few years ago, a Google engineer reviewed lots of USB-C cables on Amazon to give his view on those. If you need a third-party cable, make sure you get one from a reputable source with good reviews. My preferred USB cable is Anker's Powerline+ due to their extra strength/thickness, and I don't need much flexibility/twistability in my cables. Also, I like how the USB-C end connector is made of one single piece where you don't see any connecting lines around the middle (you can see an example here).
Other thoughts:
As long as there is a supply of extra batteries around and you can afford to buy them when the time comes, then you shouldn't worry much about how you charge your phone. In my opinion, that is one of the main selling points of having a hand-removable battery. I imagine a paranoid person on a phone with a sealed battery would be trying to keep the battery level between 40 and 80% at all times. So really, the only thing to worry about is having a decent USB-C cable and making sure the phone's charging port is clean and not worn out.
In case you are really interested on my detailed charging habits and related things on my V20, I discussed them while reviewing my batteries a while back on the V20 Subreddit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On that Subreddit, you mentioned you cycled a couple batteries. Did you have to do the whole fully charge and fully drain thing each time you switched to the new battery, or just when you first bought the batteries?
Would like to know the answer to ^this^ as well.
baldybill said:
On that Subreddit, you mentioned you cycled a couple batteries. Did you have to do the whole fully charge and fully drain thing each time you switched to the new battery, or just when you first bought the batteries?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pistacios said:
Would like to know the answer to ^this^ as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I only did the full cycle with the first battery three times, and that was it. The only reason to do that is for the Android software of the phone to get a better sense of your battery level. Of course, it won't be as accurate the longer you go swapping between batteries as undoubtedly they will differ a bit in capacity over time. But fully running down and then fully charging a battery isn't good for its lifespan if you do it too often. The only other times you'd have to really repeat the calibration is when switching to a battery with a different capacity or switching ROMs / doing a factory reset.
C D said:
No, I only did the full cycle with the first battery three times, and that was it. The only reason to do that is for the Android software of the phone to get a better sense of your battery level. Of course, it won't be as accurate the longer you go swapping between batteries as undoubtedly they will differ a bit in capacity over time. But fully running down and then fully charging a battery isn't good for its lifespan if you do it too often. The only other times you'd have to really repeat the calibration is when switching to a battery with a different capacity or switching ROMs / doing a factory reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, I got a 4000 Powerbear that I'm calibrating now.
I'm also getting a 4100 Perfine.
Are they close enough that I shouldn't have to recalibrate for the 4100?
baldybill said:
So, I got a 4000 Powerbear that I'm calibrating now.
I'm also getting a 4100 Perfine.
Are they close enough that I shouldn't have to recalibrate for the 4100?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely yes. I imagine most of these 4000–4300 mAh Lithium polymer batteries that started popping up this year are very similar, and some may just be rebranded from the same common factory source. Barring a defective battery, if the two batteries had a significant difference in capacity, you could see things like early shutdowns on the smaller capacity one or being stuck at a low percentage for an unusually long amount of time on the larger capacity one.
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
pistacios said:
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty much this. I suppose one could try keeping separate copies of the batterystats.bin file from /data/system when rooted and swap them alongside the different batteries. But that sounds like too much of a pain to deal with, even if it works.
C D said:
Most likely yes. I imagine most of these 4000–4300 mAh Lithium polymer batteries that started popping up this year are very similar, and some may just be rebranded from the same common factory source. Barring a defective battery, if the two batteries had a significant difference in capacity, you could see things like early shutdowns on the smaller capacity one or being stuck at a low percentage for an unusually long amount of time on the larger capacity one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pistacios said:
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C D said:
Pretty much this. I suppose one could try keeping separate copies of the batterystats.bin file from /data/system when rooted and swap them alongside the different batteries. But that sounds like too much of a pain to deal with, even if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to add to this, I found your pics @C D for the charging instructions and there's a note about using 3200mah batteries along with the 4100mah batteries.
pistacios said:
Just to add to this, I found your pics @C D for the charging instructions and there's a note about using 3200mah batteries along with the 4100mah batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does that mean that if you switch between the batteries, they'll both last as long as they should (the 4100 longer time than the orig. 3200), but the system's percent will be wrong?
My understanding is that if you calibrate the phone to recognize the full 4100mah and then use a 3200mah battery, it will shut down early (but still use the full 3200mah).
Correct. They are warning you that swapping between batteries of significantly different capacities will throw off the accuracy of the phone's battery percentage indicator at all times, especially at the high and low percent values (so an early shutdown can happen when the smaller capacity battery is used). Of course, this won't affect either battery's true capacity.
I'd pay good money for a system that can correctly handle different battery capacities of any amount, but we all know where the future of hand-removable batteries has been heading for the last 3–4 years.
Does anyone charge their phone ONLY to 80 % or so?
If so, what apps do you use to limit this? Any other tips/advice?
baldybill said:
Does anyone charge their phone ONLY to 80 % or so?
If so, what apps do you use to limit this? Any other tips/advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use AccuBattery and it has a notification sound that plays when you hit the target charge percentage, but it's still up to you to remove the phone from the charger or else it continues charging to 100%.
Since our phones have replaceable batteries, I haven't made any special effort to take care of them. I have a pair of May '17 OEM 3200 mAh batteries that are going to get switched out for a pair of new 4100+ mAh Li-Po batteries once I get my second V20 set up. Every charger I use is QuickCharge 3.0 certified except for USB on my PCs and my Pioneer Android Auto headunit USB connection in one car. The vast majority of the time, I charge via QC 3.0. Pretty much the only time I let the battery charge via PC USB is when I actually need to transfer files between the phone and computer.
Before my phone started having issues in the past month with a phantom power drain, I would let the phone charge from 30-40% to 80-90% and then remove it from the charger at night before going to sleep. In the last half year as the batteries have aged, I've let it get up to between 90-95% before unplugging. For the past month, I've been charging the phone four times a day from 40-100% to combat the power drain issue, but that comes with knowing that I don't care about these old batteries or the state of the firmware on this first V20 anymore.
As for when I swapped the two batteries I have, that entirely depended on when I actually ran one down so far that I needed a 0-100% battery swap, which could be months at a time and usually happened while on vacation or away from a charging source for a longer period of time than what my usual home/car/work routine allows.

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