I have been using zooper for over a month now. the conditional advanced formulas make no sense to me. ive tried looking at the formulas for built in widgets such as the clocks to get a better understanding but the numbers for radius and such make no sense to me what so ever. does anyone have a legend breakdown or anything remotely useful for beginners in the advanced stage of zooper?
i am out of mind in this ask and coming up to the thread to have any ideas suggesting me best in the issue .. i guess it is going to take some time
The only conditional I usually use is when charging my battery. Like right now I have a header for my battery piece that just says "battery" but when it's charging, it says "charging" instead.
So my Conditional formula for that says:
Code:
$#BSTATN#=2?Charging:Battery$
It's kind of like this: $IF?THEN:IFNOT$... so If BSTATN is 2 (charging), then write Charging, if not, write Battery. The original formula for this was an "IF NOT" at first but this is easier for what I want to do.
I haven't gotten into any radius stuff with it though... like I said, this is about the most I do with conditionals... maybe it'll help?
So I think I figured out the clock bit... First thing I found was this. I also added their WallAnalog default template to look at its pieces.
If you look at their example, they have [ar], [as], and [r] for each of the hands.
AR is the Arc Radius... think of this as the center point of whatever rectangle you make for the hand. It is not the center of the circle, but the distance from the center of the clock to the center of your hand.
AS is the Arc Sweep... this tells it what the position of the hand should be based on the time (not really the rotation, but it's point in the circle).
R is the Rotation... this rotation is actually the rotation of your hand as an object. That is, if you make a rectangle for a hand, it has to rotate itself along with the time and AS to look right, otherwise it would just be a level, flat rectangle moving around a circle.
Not sure if that makes any sense, but let's see if I can show what it means.
If you want a simple clock with just 2 hands that tell you the time, here's what you could do:
Minutes Hand:
Size: 5w x 100h
AR: 50
AS/R: $(360/60*#Dm#)$ (this will basically always be this for the minutes - it converts the minutes to a number of degrees within a full circle - 15 min is 90 degrees, 30 min is 180 degrees, etc.
This minute hand would begin at the center of the clock and extend out 100 pixels from there - because the AR number is equal to half of the hand length.
Hour Hand:
Size: 5w x 60h
AR: 30
AS/R: $((#Dh#*60+#Dm#)/2)$ (again, another calculation that will be the same for any hour hand you use, just calculating the # of degrees of a circle for the current hour)
This hand is shorter, but again it extends from the center of the clock outward as the AR is again half of the hand length.
If you want to get a little overlap on the other side of the clock center, you basically make the AR smaller. If you make the minutes hand AR 35 and the hour hand AR 15, you get an overlap on the opposite side of the clock hand of 15 pixels (each AR was reduced by 15).
You can see both examples here. The top is the first one and the bottom is the "overlap" I'm talking about. The hands are the same length in both, but the 15 pixel AR difference shifts the hands inward.
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If you want to get crazy, you can add some dots or squares at the end. Again, this is just a matter of getting the rectangle sizes and ARs correct... everything else stays the same. You need to create new rectangles for each of the "dots" at the end of the hands.
If we use the second clock above as the example, maybe we want to put a 5x5 red box at the end of each hand. You need to figure out at what point the hand ends.
So the minute hand is 100 pixels, its center is at an AR of 35, so it extends another 50 pixels past that. So the end of the minute hand is now 85. The hour hand is 60 pixels with an AR of 15. This one goes 30 pixels past the AR for an end point at 45. Now your 5x5 red box needs to be at the end of these. The midpoint of the 5x5 box is at 2.5 pixels. Add this number to the end of the hand distance and you have the AR of the dot. So the minute dot AR is 87.5 and the hour dot is at 47.5. That all make sense?
Plugging in all that with the exact same AS and R values gets you the bottom clock shown here:
Do you follow any of that? I literally just learned this all tonight and it makes sense now. I do have one suggestion though - when you are placing your clock components, Use Center as the Screen Anchor for ALL of the pieces. I seem to get some strange positioning if I try to start from any other anchor point.
PLEASE do ask questions if you have any questions on this.
Im going to play with this tomorrow. Ive been slammed at work. This does make a great deal more sense. Thank you very much for the explanation. I just cant read code for these things without understanding what the numbers represent.
Sent from my SM-N900P using xda app-developers app
My only question really after is what do the $ signs "dm" and all stand for? Thank you this has helped alot.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda app-developers app
$ stands for calculation and 'dm' stands for minute and 'dh' stands for hour.
ack154 said:
So I think I figured out the clock bit... First thing I found was this. I also added their WallAnalog default template to look at its pieces.
If you look at their example, they have [ar], [as], and [r] for each of the hands.
AR is the Arc Radius... think of this as the center point of whatever rectangle you make for the hand. It is not the center of the circle, but the distance from the center of the clock to the center of your hand.
AS is the Arc Sweep... this tells it what the position of the hand should be based on the time (not really the rotation, but it's point in the circle).
R is the Rotation... this rotation is actually the rotation of your hand as an object. That is, if you make a rectangle for a hand, it has to rotate itself along with the time and AS to look right, otherwise it would just be a level, flat rectangle moving around a circle.
Not sure if that makes any sense, but let's see if I can show what it means.
If you want a simple clock with just 2 hands that tell you the time, here's what you could do:
Minutes Hand:
Size: 5w x 100h
AR: 50
AS/R: $(360/60*#Dm#)$ (this will basically always be this for the minutes - it converts the minutes to a number of degrees within a full circle - 15 min is 90 degrees, 30 min is 180 degrees, etc.
This minute hand would begin at the center of the clock and extend out 100 pixels from there - because the AR number is equal to half of the hand length.
Hour Hand:
Size: 5w x 60h
AR: 30
AS/R: $((#Dh#*60+#Dm#)/2)$ (again, another calculation that will be the same for any hour hand you use, just calculating the # of degrees of a circle for the current hour)
This hand is shorter, but again it extends from the center of the clock outward as the AR is again half of the hand length.
If you want to get a little overlap on the other side of the clock center, you basically make the AR smaller. If you make the minutes hand AR 35 and the hour hand AR 15, you get an overlap on the opposite side of the clock hand of 15 pixels (each AR was reduced by 15).
You can see both examples here. The top is the first one and the bottom is the "overlap" I'm talking about. The hands are the same length in both, but the 15 pixel AR difference shifts the hands inward.
If you want to get crazy, you can add some dots or squares at the end. Again, this is just a matter of getting the rectangle sizes and ARs correct... everything else stays the same. You need to create new rectangles for each of the "dots" at the end of the hands.
If we use the second clock above as the example, maybe we want to put a 5x5 red box at the end of each hand. You need to figure out at what point the hand ends.
So the minute hand is 100 pixels, its center is at an AR of 35, so it extends another 50 pixels past that. So the end of the minute hand is now 85. The hour hand is 60 pixels with an AR of 15. This one goes 30 pixels past the AR for an end point at 45. Now your 5x5 red box needs to be at the end of these. The midpoint of the 5x5 box is at 2.5 pixels. Add this number to the end of the hand distance and you have the AR of the dot. So the minute dot AR is 87.5 and the hour dot is at 47.5. That all make sense?
Plugging in all that with the exact same AS and R values gets you the bottom clock shown here:
Do you follow any of that? I literally just learned this all tonight and it makes sense now. I do have one suggestion though - when you are placing your clock components, Use Center as the Screen Anchor for ALL of the pieces. I seem to get some strange positioning if I try to start from any other anchor point.
PLEASE do ask questions if you have any questions on this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice explanation. Thanks for that. I had a few confusion issues on the analogs a month or so ago and used this to help. It helped me create this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.scottech.zwskin.analogpro
Related
I recently discovered this on a white lumia 900 and wonder if this is normal or if I need to get my phone exchanged.
The camera always gives a slightly discolored halo in the middle of a picture taken without a flash. I took a picture of a blank white wall and the effect can be seen clearly in the piture. (I adjusted the brightness a bit) (since i cant post links)
imgur.com/caiBu
Also, it doesn't take really good pictures in the dark. One weird thing that I saw is in this picture below. I took a picture with the phone in complete darkness and then opened the picture on the phone. The screen looks black but then when you pinch-to-zoom and increase the picture size, all sorts of weird dots and stuff appear and also can be seen if you auto-correct the final image using any picture software. I clicked the picture of the phone screen in a dark room.
imgur.com/bnp0F
I got same problem
Vignetting, digital noise, and the laws of physics
randomlightspeed said:
I recently discovered this on a white lumia 900 and wonder if this is normal or if I need to get my phone exchanged.
The camera always gives a slightly discolored halo in the middle of a picture taken without a flash. I took a picture of a blank white wall and the effect can be seen clearly in the piture. (I adjusted the brightness a bit) (since i cant post links)
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Lulz. Welcome to the world of photography. You have discovered two things that have been discussed in photography for well over a century vignetting and noise/grain.
I have a $300 NONZOOM lens that if used on a $3000 camera will show vignetting if you shoot it wide open (f/1.4). Not sure why anyone would think the tiny lens on a mass produced phone handed out for free would be immune to that.
A guy bought a DSLR for $6,000 new and put a $1,500 lens on it. This is what he found...
randomlightspeed said:
Also, it doesn't take really good pictures in the dark. One weird thing that I saw is in this picture below. I took a picture with the phone in complete darkness and then opened the picture on the phone. The screen looks black but then when you pinch-to-zoom and increase the picture size, all sorts of weird dots and stuff appear and also can be seen if you auto-correct the final image using any picture software. I clicked the picture of the phone screen in a dark room.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Lumia 900 is an awesome phone but it has to obey the laws of physics. You can't cram eight megapixels into a space the fraction of the size of a fingernail and expect to get noise free images. That's why miniaturization and the megapixel race are an anathema to good photography. I'll put it to you this way one of the greatest photographers ever prefered to shoot his work with an 8x10 camera. That's right a camera with film that measured 8x10 per a frame. Now you are shooting in terrible lighting conditions with a sensor that is a fraction of the size of your fingernail. My question is what did you expect?
Here's a little primer on sensor sizes...
For professional photography Canon APS-C is really the minimum. Sigma Fovean can be used but it is a very unique technology. Four thirds cameras take some decent pictures as well but that is about the limit. FYI see that tiny green box on the left? The sensor you are critiquing is a fraction of the size of that. Also when I really want to take I nice shot I use a medium format FILM camera. It's negative is even bigger than the medium format sensor on that chart.
Arizona Highways is considered to be at the pinnacle of photographic magazines. It usually only uses images taken with FILM cameras like this...
So bottom line is that vignetting and digital noise are present to some degree in EVERY camera phone. Are they at an unacceptable level in your particular unit? I don't know. I would have to know a lot more about your testing methodology and see similar sample pics taken under the exact same conditions by a variety of phones. Your phone may be defective or you may just be one of those special people that really pays attention to the quality of photographs. Some people for whatever reason are just really tuned in to what looks good and what looks bad. I love showing people like that my pictures. They can actually appreciate them or at least tell me what looks bad.
ggg said:
I got same problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah so do people with three thousand dollar cameras. It's all a matter of degree.
Unfortunately, the camera on this phone sucks. I have one and it takes horrible pictures 90% of the time. 10% of the time you will be amazed at how great the pictures look, the rest of the time you will be disappointed.
Not sure how how Nokia screwed it up this bad.
randomlightspeed said:
I recently discovered this on a white lumia 900 and wonder if this is normal or if I need to get my phone exchanged.
The camera always gives a slightly discolored halo in the middle of a picture taken without a flash. I took a picture of a blank white wall and the effect can be seen clearly in the piture. (I adjusted the brightness a bit) (since i cant post links)
imgur.com/caiBu
Also, it doesn't take really good pictures in the dark. One weird thing that I saw is in this picture below. I took a picture with the phone in complete darkness and then opened the picture on the phone. The screen looks black but then when you pinch-to-zoom and increase the picture size, all sorts of weird dots and stuff appear and also can be seen if you auto-correct the final image using any picture software. I clicked the picture of the phone screen in a dark room.
imgur.com/bnp0F
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
randomlightspeed said:
I recently discovered this on a white lumia 900 and wonder if this is normal or if I need to get my phone exchanged.
The camera always gives a slightly discolored halo in the middle of a picture taken without a flash. I took a picture of a blank white wall and the effect can be seen clearly in the piture. (I adjusted the brightness a bit) (since i cant post links)
imgur.com/caiBu
Also, it doesn't take really good pictures in the dark. One weird thing that I saw is in this picture below. I took a picture with the phone in complete darkness and then opened the picture on the phone. The screen looks black but then when you pinch-to-zoom and increase the picture size, all sorts of weird dots and stuff appear and also can be seen if you auto-correct the final image using any picture software. I clicked the picture of the phone screen in a dark room.
imgur.com/bnp0F
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me see if I can give a simple explanation..
For your halo effect or as you can see its yellowish in the middle a been a noted problem in the lumia phone ( Samsung SGS2 forums are filled with similar problems what they call as the pink spot).
Apparently the phone might have a problem of adjusting the white balance and hence giving the yellowish tint.
Solution : I would try and see if you can manually adjust the white balance on the camera setting and see if it makes a difference to you as people have seem to found better results then the auto settings.
Regarding the Second problem as mentioned above its Noise which you probably get with low light photography.
SOLUTION : Try using flash with lower iso if possible, The higher the iso the more the noise, the lower the iso the less the noice will be and also make your pictures more darker, best to use flash.
Just my humble thoughts... and I dont have the lumia yet, but hoping to purchase one soon.
There are quiet a number of bugs in the lumia 900 which nokia has acknowledged and will be addressed in future updates
bitemydonkey said:
Unfortunately, the camera on this phone sucks. I have one and it takes horrible pictures 90% of the time. 10% of the time you will be amazed at how great the pictures look, the rest of the time you will be disappointed.
Not sure how how Nokia screwed it up this bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your Lumia 900 is taking "horrible" pictures 90% of the time it is either defective our you aren't using it correctly.
There are several adjustments on the camera. I suggest playing with them. I definitely change the color balance depending on the lighting conditions and I mess with the scene settings as well.
When you say the pictures are "horrible" what are you comparing them to? Frankly I've never been impressed with the low light capability of sensors smaller than Canon APS-C. Especially if you decide to go pixel peeping the way the OP did. I pixel peeped an image from a point and shoot camera years ago... I never did it again. You see all kinds of things you don't really want to know about.
I've had a note2 since day1 and the spen on my note2 always acted weird at the edge of the screen. It is impossible to draw a straight line on the right side of the screen. It's hard to describe the problem so I actually drew a couple of lines on the right side of the screen as well as on the left side of the screen for comparison. I uploaded a screenshot showing the difference. I want to know if anyone else can test this using their note2 to see whether this is just a limitation of the spen accuracy or if my note2 is defective.
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I cant post a screenshot because usb mass storage mode doesnt work right on linux so id have to email the note i made an i dunno how to do that at this time.
However I tried to make straight lines on the right side moving the spen from lower left to upper right and they had the same hump yours did although not as pronounced.
And then I concentrated and very slowly and deliberately made straight lines again on the right side starting from upper right to lower left and they were near perfect just like the lines on the left side.
My conclusion for what its worth is I think the hum my be a natural variation in your hands movement translated through the stylus. Cause when I really concentrated on drawing a straight line. I did .... no problem.
So I dont think its the device itself. I think your hands wants to naturally curve to the right creating that hump in the point of referrence in the line.
Some_dude36 said:
I cant post a screenshot because usb mass storage mode doesnt work right on linux so id have to email the note i made an i dunno how to do that at this time.
However I tried to make straight lines on the right side moving the spen from lower left to upper right and they had the same hump yours did although not as pronounced.
And then I concentrated and very slowly and deliberately made straight lines again on the right side starting from upper right to lower left and they were near perfect just like the lines on the left side.
My conclusion for what its worth is I think the hum my be a natural variation in your hands movement translated through the stylus. Cause when I really concentrated on drawing a straight line. I did .... no problem.
So I dont think its the device itself. I think your hands wants to naturally curve to the right creating that hump in the point of referrence in the line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as much as I'd like to believe that is the case, It wasn't. The first set of lines i drew on the left side, and then i rotated the phone 180 degrees and drew lines on the right side (which is now the left side since its upside down) in the same manner.
Also, its not only S Note that this happens in; this issue also occurs in Sketchbook mobile, Draw something... etc. Basically any app that I can draw with the spen is when this problem becomes noticeable.
Edit: I just tried again using a ruler to try and make a couple of straight lines and the same thing occurred so its definitely not natural variation lol
I get this too. If you go slowly in a straight line you can see the drawing point migrate upwards, deviating from the actual pen point, before coming back down as you near the edge...hence the hump. Software or hardware issue?
Mine occurs much closer to the edge of the screen and less severely though compared to yours. On the s note grid pad the hump peaks at about 2.5units from the edge.
not very noticeable on sketchbook but it's still there. Here are 3 screen shots.
snote
idea note
sketchbook
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda premium
I'm fairly confident now this is a software problem. I did a factory reset and I can draw straight lines now. However, considering there is no calibration option for the spen, I'm assuming the software "learns" how you write and auto calibrates accordingly. That's probably why over time the center becomes incredibly accurate and the edges start to suck. I could be wrong though.
sephiroth1439 said:
I'm fairly confident now this is a software problem. I did a factory reset and I can draw straight lines now. However, considering there is no calibration option for the spen, I'm assuming the software "learns" how you write and auto calibrates accordingly. That's probably why over time the center becomes incredibly accurate and the edges start to suck. I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting that a software update fixes it, there's been a few discussions of this (I've been following the Note II since it was announced) on the international Note II forums... And the conclusion they came up with is that the wacom digitizer isn't very accurate near the edges because well, the bezels aren't that large and yet it has to be able to detect like the S-pen hovering, and there was discussion about this being a problem on lots of wacom tablets, etc. Although intresting that yours works now after factory reset
Luckyly I haven't experienced this issue with mine...
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda premium
2 days old note 2
got my note 2 two days ago and it has the same problem on the middle right part of the screen, i don't know whether its from the spen or the screen itself.. has anyone found a solution? i'm gonna take it to the shop today and see if its software related.. otherwise then i'll make them give me a new one :crying:
CUBOT V1 Smart Band
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Specs:
Chipset: Dialog DA1458 Low Consumption Bluetooth 4.0 chip (same one as Xiaomi)
Sensor: Freescale MMA8652 tri-axis accelerometer
Display: 0.88 inch, OLED screen with 128x32 resolution
Battery Capacity: 80mAh, 30 days of standby time declared
Charging method: Standard Micro-USB
Protections: Waterproof & Dustproof (IP65)
Material: Bayer TPU (?)
Compatible OSs: Android 4.3 version and above, iOS 7.1 version and above
Official Website: http://www.cubot.net/wearables/v1/
Disclaimer: I do not own this device, do not ask me support question because i won't be able to reply you.
This is first of its kind for this company in this category. To me this band appears like Logical next step in comparison with the introduction of a LCD Screen. However the device is only useful if the Fitness measurements are accurate.
UNBOXING AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS -
the Packaging is compact and tidy. The Flat box has basic Specifications of the band on the back. The Band is Sold in 3 Colors of Black, Blue and Grey. I had asked for Blue color. The Box is Packed inside a Plastic wrap which is although good for water proof protection, can be little bit difficult to open. The box too is a tight fit and is slightly difficult to open. As seen, Inside the box we have the Band a MicroUSB Charging Cable and Instruction Manual. The Felt packing is an additional touch.
DEVICE SPECIFICATIONS -
The Key Technical Specifications are as follows, Rest of the specs can be found on Cubot's Website.
Battery -
Lithium Polymer 80mAh Input current：45 mA Max 65 mA (2 to 3 Hours to Charge. Lasts about a Week and Half.)
Weight - Net weight：9.5g
Waterproof - IP65
Screen -
0.88inch OLED screen Resolution 128 * 32. Communication -
Bluetooth chip DA14580
Dimensions - Total length：235 mm
Adjustable Length：120-210 mm
Material： Aluminium alloy
Compatibility - Bluetooth 4.0 Android 4.3 and above, IOS8.0 and above
INITIAL SET-UP AND APP -
The Device's screen has a thin transparent plastic Screen. This you will want to remove before using. There is a MicroUSB Port along the right edge of the device on the back for charging. The port also has a small tab to protect it from Sweat or water.
The LCD Screen has a small plastic film on it. This is not a Screen Protector and you will be removing it during daily use. On the back you have Band name and the Micro USB charging port along the right edge in the picture above. There is a small plastic tab which protects the port during normal use.
Out of the Box, the band's battery was completely drained.I had to plug in for about 3 hours to charge it fully. One thing I noticed is that the Battery Icon displayed on the Device Screen appears to be about 2/3 filled and 1/2 remaining to be charged. This is despite the battery being fully charged. This is a small inconvenience and bit getting used to. While it was charging, I explored the app. For the app, there is a QR code in the user manual (Which is in English and German). The QR Code leads to Cubot Band App.
The App is fairly similar to the Mi Band App. Translations are better and more importantly, unlike the Mi App, the app does not require any Registration of any Kind. It does not however integrate with Google Fit app, since this Band is not certified by Google I suppose.
In order to Pair the band with the App, you will need to get into the Device Management Screen. Also make sure the Device Bluetooth is turned on. If its not on, the app will prompt for the same. Please note, the device will not be able to pair with the Band on its own but the App will be able to do so. Within the app, there are 2 main Screens and 2 Settings Screens. There is a Steps screen which gives Number of Steps measured compared to Daily Goal set if any. The Sleep screen show Quality of Sleep Broken into Light (REM) Sleep and Deep (Non-REM ) Sleep. Please Note, the Sleep tracker is not enabled out of Box. You will need to get into the Reminders Screen in order to Turn on Sleep Management.
In addition to all this, the Device provides Sedentary Reminder, to be configured in the app along with Alarms. Sedentary Reminder is one where the device buzzes if you have been sitting for too long in one place and one Post ion. Also you can set optional Lost Device Alert which kicks in if the phone is too far from the band.
DEVICE OPERATION FITNESS TRACKING -
The Device Operation is pretty straight forward. You can Swipe from Right to left to turn on the Screen. By Default the band shows Time. Turning into a watch. 2nd Swipe will switch to Steps taken. 3rd Swipe switches to Calories Burnt. 4th Swipe takes you to Distance Traveled. Two Points to be Noted. The Display turns off Real Quick. Perhaps to conserve the battery. Also the screen is a Standard LCD Screen. The display looks bit faded but all right indoors. However it is highly difficult to read outdoors in sunlight. You can notice this in the 4th Picture above.
Compared to the Mi Band, it appears that the steps measurement is comparable. The Steps count is slightly higher than actual count. For 20 actual steps the band measured 32 steps. However it is not fooled when driving. The steps count remains the same. This is about same as the Mi Band.
Now as to the Sleep tracking, the device appears to come up Short. No matter how long you slept, the band only seems to measure about 4 Hours to 5 Hours of total Sleep. This does not change no matter what you do.
NOTE - The Cubot V1 is available on TomTop for $13
There is a way to let the band pick up notification other than calls, sms and wechat?
I need Whatsapp notification but the app won't let it.
guez87 said:
There is a way to let the band pick up notification other than calls, sms and wechat?
I need Whatsapp notification but the app won't let it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry for the late reply.
Unfortunately no, the app needs to be hacked/modded in order to add new apps.
I have a Xiaomi Mi band which is $17 on Amazon. It works well. It's just... I realize I wasn't in that much need for it.:crying:
Hello, I just got one of this. But it won't turn on, after i opened the package I plug it in charger, but nothing happened. Now was on charger more than 10hours and still nothing on display. Anyone have suggestion?
Hi guys, I know could be a weird post but, did someone know if there's any way to improve the notification led, via hardware?
Because it's placed inside the upper audio speaker, I was wondering if a very small cilinder of palexiglass, or fiber or something similar could be inserted inside the corrispondent hole, perpendicular to the led axis. I would also be willing to make a very small hole in the audio speaker just to provide a better way to insert this hypothetical optical stuff (see screenshots). This shuold bring up the led-light on the external surface of the phone, allowing you to see it even at short distance from the phone.
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PS
Please don't reply "change you're phone", thanks :laugh:
It is possible, but unlike on the M8, where you can just pry open the speaker grills, on the M9 you have to disasemble the whole phone to get to them.
Just get a new phone. ??
Or take a small drill screwdriver and make the hole larger. (Just kidding. Don't do this.)
Yeah... There is no practical way of making the led bigger or brighter
Myrmeko said:
It is possible, but unlike on the M8, where you can just pry open the speaker grills, on the M9 you have to disasemble the whole phone to get to them.
Just get a new phone. ??
Or take a small drill screwdriver and make the hole larger. (Just kidding. Don't do this.)
Yeah... There is no practical way of making the led bigger or brighter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But I wasn't kiddin :laugh: I mean, using something like this
and then fits a very small lens upon
Marko Indaco said:
But I wasn't kiddin :laugh: I mean, using something like this
and then fits a very small lens upon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have one of those go for it.
Try to make the hole a little bit wider, but not too much that it looks bad. If a lens would be there, it would kinda make it look like it came like that from factory.
Or i dunno. Just put the itty bitty tiny lens in the already existing hole without making it larger.
The front plastic plate is really hard to replace.
You decide. Make it subtle or make it obvious.
Myrmeko said:
If you have one of those go for it.
Try to make the hole a little bit wider, but not too much that it looks bad. If a lens would be there, it would kinda make it look like it came like that from factory.
Or i dunno. Just but the itty bitty tiny lens in the already existing hole without making it larger.
The front plastic plate is really hard to replace.
You decide. Make it subtle or make it obvious.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The factory holes for the audio speakers are too small imo (seems half a millimeter, or something like that). It's almost impossibile to find a lens with that measures, but... making a larger hole which also includes the other closer holes could be an option. This also shuold increase the visibility of the notification led, bringing on the surface the light.
In the screenshot I supposed 1 mm, but I think they would be better 2, also to have ease in finding the lens.
Marko Indaco said:
The factory holes for the audio speakers are too small imo (seems half a millimeter, or something like that). It's almost impossibile to find a lens with that measures, but... making a larger hole which also includes the other closer holes could be an option. This also shuold increase the visibility of the notification led, bringing on the surface the light.
In the screenshot I supposed 1 mm, but I think they would be better 2, also to have ease in finding the lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just measured it and the space between 4 holes is 1mm^2.
But i think you could break a 2x4 grid to still keep the symmetry.
And above the 2 lenses you could fit inside the 2mm^2 hole, you could superglue put a small piece of glass to make it look "official".
I've attached 2 photos. One with possible scenarios.
And the other one with my already broken holes from another phone, which i edited poorly to look like there are only 2 rows broken (the actual phone has a 4x4 hole there, which im gonna attach anyway, because why not.).
Myrmeko said:
I've just measured it and the space between 4 holes is 1mm^2.
But i think you could break a 2x4 grid to still keep the symmetry.
And above the 2 lenses you could fit inside the 2mm^2 hole, you could superglue put a small piece of glass to make it look "official".
I've attached 2 photos. One with possible scenarios.
And the other one with my already broken holes from another phone, which i edited poorly to look like there are only 2 rows broken (the actual phone has a 4x4 hole there, which im gonna attach anyway, because why not.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, thank you for the screenshots. I was thinking about somenthing like in the second screenshot. Preferibly the 2x4 holes, but that it's way more difficult to do bore because it's not a rounded hole, and also i guess it's difficult to find a square lens instead of a rounded one. Anyway that's it, you got it :laugh: Of course must be very careful not to broke the upper audio speaker, which is one of the best features of this phone.
Marko Indaco said:
Yes, thank you for the screenshots. I was thinking about somenthing like in the second screenshot. Preferibly the 2x4 holes, but that it's way more difficult to do bore because it's not a rounded hole, and also i guess it's difficult to find a square lens instead of a rounded one. Anyway that's it, you got it :laugh: Of course must be very careful not to broke the upper audio speaker, which is one of the best features of this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you should just find a good way to do this.
I think there are cheap M9 front plates on Aliexpress for you to test on them.
Here is my inexperienced sollution.
Try filing down the connection points, until the middle part breaks off, then file the plastic excess. (Like with an electrical file with one of those precision heads. I dunno how they are called)
And about the lens, why not use 3 of them?
Put one right above the led. One next to it and one above both. Then seal them with a drop of clear epoxy. (Gray = front plate plastic, blue = epoxy, white = lens, orange = how the light might disperse)
Because i dont think people can (or want) make only one custom recangular lens.
But the most useful thing would be a tiny fresnel lens. But i think it might be impossible to make such a small one.
Hey all. So long time i come back to post here for a small update. Well, after scrubbing (manually, with a hand-cutter) a bit around the hole where is situated the led, I can confirm that the overall size of the led it's much bigger than it looks at the fist sight. Also, by doing this the led angle view is more wide, you can cleary see it also if you spin the phone by is vertical axis (the diameter of the hole it's around 3mm now).
Now I have to plug the hole by putting a very small lens, but I'm not finding yet for the moment.
I made a short video. I know, it's dark because the need to focus on led, of course, anyway, look at the angle of the phone when it's spinning around You can cleary see the led. Once the lens where puttin over should be further visible because shuold bring the brighness on the surface level :good:
https://streamable.com/3p0go
The next huge step forward is to create a tri fold screen. Obviously major improvements to reducing the weight and even more so the width of each fold needs to improve greatly. Also the hinge needs to be much less cumbersome so as to fold flat/flush. To achieve the same width and weight of the current Fold you would have to reduce the weight and width by 33% in producing the Tri fold. It's a significant improvement, but definitely feasible.
Folded Screen
5.33 x 3.0 = 6.1 inch diagonal (16 x 9 aspect ratio)
Unfolded Screen
5.33 x 9.5 = 10.9 inch diagonal (16 x 9 aspect ratio)
Note: the third fold would face outward and serve as the outer screen. So you actually don't have a separate screen. This would keep the costs down significantly.
The biggest challenge would be how to protect the edge of the screen where the second fold occurs. It would be exposed. Creating a case for this phone would also present a huge challenge.
I genuinely have no interest in a phone with a display that's over 9" diagonally. I'm sure most people feel the same way. The current display size is great. Even when unfolded, it's pretty easy to hold the Fold3 with one hand in portrait orientation. Anything larger would be unreasonably cumbersome.
pieces of cake said:
I genuinely have no interest in a phone with a display that's over 9" diagonally. I'm sure most people feel the same way. The current display size is great. Even when unfolded, it's pretty easy to hold the Fold3 with one hand in portrait orientation. Anything larger would be unreasonably cumbersome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You make a valid point.
I would personally love it.
I just have a issue with such awkward aspect ratios on both the front and unfolded screens. If you make the front screen a more typical form factor, then the unfolded screen almost becomes a perfect square, which is much more undesirable than as it currently stands.
I have no problem with a larger screen, but the weight needs to go down significantly.
New Samsung patent reveals a double-folding Galaxy Z Fold 3 successor
A new patent depicting a device with two folds suggests that Samsung may add a third display to its future foldable smartphone.
www.androidcentral.com
Well that's exactly what I described above.
islstl said:
The next huge step forward is to create a tri fold screen. Obviously major improvements to reducing the weight and even more so the width of each fold needs to improve greatly. Also the hinge needs to be much less cumbersome so as to fold flat/flush. To achieve the same width and weight of the current Fold you would have to reduce the weight and width by 33% in producing the Tri fold. It's a significant improvement, but definitely feasible.
Folded Screen
5.33 x 3.0 = 6.1 inch diagonal (16 x 9 aspect ratio)
Unfolded Screen
5.33 x 9.5 = 10.9 inch diagonal (16 x 9 aspect ratio)
Note: the third fold would face outward and serve as the outer screen. So you actually don't have a separate screen. This would keep the costs down significantly.
The biggest challenge would be how to protect the edge of the screen where the second fold occurs. It would be exposed. Creating a case for this phone would also present a huge challenge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not quite sure why this is not understood to be the goal anyway. Samsung's own videos show this tri-fold phone, so it's obvious that they are trying to go there.
The name itself, the 'Z' fold is a massive giveaway too.
Please no more 16:9 screens! That aspect needs to die now!
you mean this one?
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jeromepearce said:
The name itself, the 'Z' fold is a massive giveaway too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's true ...
Currently, we have a V fold with additional front display, and who knows, maybe we'll get a W fold one day with an additional front display
小林 卍 said:
you mean this one?
View attachment 5495409
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one. Soon to be on the market, once Samsung gets its deliveries of unobtainium sorted out.
cpufrost said:
Please no more 16:9 screens! That aspect needs to die now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In preference to what?
Fine with inner display size. Outside screen though is too narrow.
I feel like what keeps the Fold (and other phones) from being very thin are the batteries. If they can get the batteries to be thinner, then a lot of possibilities are there to make phones whatever they want, multiple folds, etc.
skally said:
In preference to what?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
16:10
pieces of cake said:
I genuinely have no interest in a phone with a display that's over 9" diagonally. I'm sure most people feel the same way. The current display size is great. Even when unfolded, it's pretty easy to hold the Fold3 with one hand in portrait orientation. Anything larger would be unreasonably cumbersome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Truth be told if you have two hinges nothing prevents you from only unfolding one side when you don't need a larger size/don't wanna hold a tablet, and then expanding the other fold when you can enjoy it. The Z fold was the first thing that came to my mind when thinking of foldables.
islstl said:
The next huge step forward is to create a tri fold screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung might want to work on reducing or completely eliminating the CREASE before they introduce an extra one! Only saying lol.
cpufrost said:
Please no more 16:9 screens! That aspect needs to die now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why as most media created are natively 16:9 aspect ratio? Personally I miss the old 16:9 screens.
I much prefer a proper 16:10 screen for work purposes. 16:9 has always been for TVs.
The outside screen fold would be too vulnerable. With all the excuses Samsung uses to avoid a warranty screen replacement, it would be a nightmare. I love the idea, but I don't think it's practical until Samsung's screens are more durable.
cpufrost said:
I much prefer a proper 16:10 screen for work purposes. 16:9 has always been for TVs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But most media created these days are in the 16:9 format ratio, that is why I prefer that the inner screen be 16:9 so that the media I view on the inner screen will fill up the entire screen.