Develop Bugs

[DIY] Galaxy Note (or any Phone) Dock under $15

Hi All,
As Promised I am putting a little a guide here.
Any Suggestion, Question, curse words keep in Thread only.
This MOD is not hard anyway. So here we go.
Sometimes ago I posted THIS, Its a nice little Dock for about $7.
Only Down side is it dosent do MHL or USB OTG. The Reason is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together. But unfortunately there is no way just to use one extra wire and solder it a two ends.
So I boutht THIS, Its true Micro USB cable Extension for about $5.
** You can use this Guide to MOD any DOCK to make it work with your MHL or USB OTG cable.
All You have to do is, Open the Dock (There are 6 screws in the bottom of Dock) take the existing micro USB Male to Female extension out and replace it with the Motorola SKN6258.
I have used THIS dock for this tutorial. But you can MOD almost any Dock this way.
1. Unscrew the Dock from bottom. To do that you have to peel off the Rubber Pad stick to the bottom. Do it little Slowly so you can stick back the Rubber Pad.
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2. Take the 3 pieces apart and take off the Micro USB male to female part. Which is almost useless. And also remove the part shown in Circle.
3. Take the Bottom piece and using Knife cut the Groves as Shown for the Back Female Micro USB Connector.
4. Now Take the Motorola Micro USB Extension Cable and remove the Protective Plastic Ends.
To do this Cut along the line where two part are stick together. Please refer to the pics below.
And also remove the Black outer cover around the wires. You can do this later too but this gives more flexibility while working.
5.This is the ONLY HARD PART. Be very careful and remove the WHITE plastic part around Female USB connector PCB covering the wires soldered to PCB. Please be Very patient
while doing this. Use the sharper blade(The Sharper the Safer). Removing all the plastic really helps putting it in place with bottom of the Dock.
Also as shown in the pictures, trim the plastic Under and on Both Sides of Female Micro USB Connector so it fits perfect in the place.(See pictures)
Otherwise it will not align with bottom edge.
6. Be little Extra Careful. As you can see in Pic 1 our new Male Connector is thicker and little shorter compare to the original Connector came with Dock.
So Using pliers we are going to take the Metal Housing around the Male Micro USB. This will lessen the thickness of the end so we can slide it easily
into existing housing without further modifications.
7. Cut some rubber pads to keep things in place. Use the two tiny pieces as shown in picture to place it around Male Micro USB Connector.
8. We almost there. Now as show in pic below you have to make another cut to make space for Male connector to fit right. Also Cut a little piece of rubber pad
to put in that groove to give cushion as shown. Also remove the little T like plastic under the tiny female connector Cover,
9. Put Everything in place and Carefully close the dock. Put couple of screws and check to see everything works as it should.
10. In my case I had to open the Dock again and trim the Front Part of Female Micro USB connector. Because if you have MHL or Micro USB cable with short length Connector
it dosent stay connected in the Dock. And this way removing unnecessary plastic housing, you can connect the cables firmly. Refer to pics below for better understanding.
The Only Reason Stock Dock dosent work is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together.
And there is no way to use an extra wire because they are shortened right on the tiny PCB attached to both the Ends.
Enjoy your New MHL and USB OTG compatible Dock.

the guide is ready to go guys.

i bought this docks from the deal you posted. opened it and was thinking about how to make things work. so thank you so much for this guide.
how long dose it take to get motorola micro usb cable?

[DIY] Galaxy Note Dock under $15

Hi All,
As Promised I am putting a little a guide here.
Any Suggestion, Question, curse words keep in Thread only.
This MOD is not hard anyway. So here we go.
Sometimes ago I posted THIS, Its a nice little Dock for about $7.
Only Down side is it dosent do MHL or USB OTG. The Reason is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together. But unfortunately there is no way just to use one extra wire and solder it a two ends.
So I boutht THIS, Its true Micro USB cable Extension for about $5.
** You can use this Guide to MOD any DOCK to make it work with your MHL or USB OTG cable.
All You have to do is, Open the Dock (There are 6 screws in the bottom of Dock) take the existing micro USB Male to Female extension out and replace it with the Motorola SKN6258.
I have used THIS dock for this tutorial. But you can MOD almost any Dock this way.
1. Unscrew the Dock from bottom. To do that you have to peel off the Rubber Pad stick to the bottom. Do it little Slowly so you can stick back the Rubber Pad.
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2. Take the 3 pieces apart and take off the Micro USB male to female part. Which is almost useless. And also remove the part shown in Circle.
3. Take the Bottom piece and using Knife cut the Groves as Shown for the Back Female Micro USB Connector.
4. Now Take the Motorola Micro USB Extension Cable and remove the Protective Plastic Ends.
To do this Cut along the line where two part are stick together. Please refer to the pics below.
And also remove the Black outer cover around the wires. You can do this later too but this gives more flexibility while working.
5.This is the ONLY HARD PART. Be very careful and remove the WHITE plastic part around Female USB connector PCB covering the wires soldered to PCB. Please be Very patient
while doing this. Use the sharper blade(The Sharper the Safer). Removing all the plastic really helps putting it in place with bottom of the Dock.
Also as shown in the pictures, trim the plastic Under and on Both Sides of Female Micro USB Connector so it fits perfect in the place.(See pictures)
Otherwise it will not align with bottom edge.
6. Be little Extra Careful. As you can see in Pic 1 our new Male Connector is thicker and little shorter compare to the original Connector came with Dock.
So Using pliers we are going to take the Metal Housing around the Male Micro USB. This will lessen the thickness of the end so we can slide it easily
into existing housing without further modifications.
7. Cut some rubber pads to keep things in place. Use the two tiny pieces as shown in picture to place it around Male Micro USB Connector.
8. We almost there. Now as show in pic below you have to make another cut to make space for Male connector to fit right. Also Cut a little piece of rubber pad
to put in that groove to give cushion as shown. Also remove the little T like plastic under the tiny female connector Cover,
9. Put Everything in place and Carefully close the dock. Put couple of screws and check to see everything works as it should.
10. In my case I had to open the Dock again and trim the Front Part of Female Micro USB connector. Because if you have MHL or Micro USB cable with short length Connector
it dosent stay connected in the Dock. And this way removing unnecessary plastic housing, you can connect the cables firmly. Refer to pics below for better understanding.
The Only Reason Stock Dock dosent work is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together.
And there is no way to use an extra wire because they are shortened right on the tiny PCB attached to both the Ends.
Enjoy your New MHL and USB OTG compatible Dock.
ALSO PLEASE POST YOUR EXPERIENCE/ SUGGESTIONS OR JUT A BUMP !

the guide is ready to go guys.

with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?

brolee93 said:
with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that will change anything.

brolee93 said:
with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It dose not change anything as far as the appearance of dock. However if you have noticed blinking LED on top behind the phone, that will not be there.
And as far as performance is concerned as long as you use Motorola SKN6258A cable, you should not have any problem at all.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Case + Cradle? Impossible? NOT ANYMORE!

So, you have a shiny new Galaxy S3 and you know that you're prone to dropping it into caves, diving into oceans with it in your pocket, or running it over with your tank, so like any smart individual you opted to buy yourself a super protective case like Otterbox Defender or similar. Problem is now you've just taken out the possibility of placing it in a charging cradle, or some sort of desktop holding device, right? Not Anymore!
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With a few simple and cheap items, you can make yourself one that doesn't look like a 7 year old kid put it together during arts and crafts!
Here's a list of what you'll need, starting from most expensive to possibly free if your boss isn't looking
Logitech MX Revolution Mouse - you only need the charging cradle, but it'll be tough finding just the cradle without this fantastic Wiltron recommended mouse - eBay average pricing at time of posting was about $15-30 dollars for the mouse and cradle. We're going to be removing the guts of the cradle so the mouse wont be able to be charged any more after this.
USB Cable - The same one that came with your phone or an aftermarket one. Should have a good plastic head on it for stability, but the stock cable is fine too (that's what I'm using).
Tools - Drill, Screwdriver (+), Knife, Hot Glue or epoxy if you're fancy
(Optional) Expanding non-flammable foaming insulation - this is only for stability and additional weight, and is purely optional. I used it in one of the two cradles I made.
Once we've pilfered the office supply cabinet, it's time to get to work. Start by turning it over and peeling off the warning label and rubber feet. Save the little feet thingies as you'll need them later. There should be one or more screws to remove. My home cradle had 4 in a box shape, but the one I have at work only had one screw in the center. Once removed, hollow out the guts and kick them in a stylish fashion as you'll no longer need them. Seen in red below, push out that separator plate as that's what you'll be working with for drilling and gluing. Ignore the green part for now, that comes later.
You'll want to either stick the metal portion of the USB cable through a small drilled hole (or cut hole with the knife, depending on how badass you are), or if your case is substantially large, put a portion of the plastic housing around the USB head through a larger drilled (or cut) hole.
Once you've tested the seating of your phone with the position of the cable so that it will charge when seated, glue it in place in the red plate, and re-seat it into the cradle. Glue that plate in if it's loose. When the glue is dried, if you've opted to use the expanding foam, get foaming. Cut/file away excess foam, and then re-seal the bottom plate after 24 hours (so the foam is set and has stopped expanding).
Now, remember that green line in the image above? You can leave that as is, or file it down. I left it as is and it causes no ill effects. A little balancing game is required if I want to "dock" it in portrait mode, but landscape mode is fine (abet unable to charge in this fashion).
It does work though

Higher resolution photos:
http://i.imgur.com/zhrPgOo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vpAxPxt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ooaI9w3.jpg

Samsung Galaxy Note II Screen Replacement Repair Guide

Is your Samsung Galaxy Note II screen cracked or broken? Our step-by-step repair guide will help you replace the screen and most other internal components. The guide helps take you through each of the essential steps that are required in executing a safe opening of the device and repair the specific part.
This guide will help you install the following Samsung Galaxy Note II part (s):
Samsung Galaxy Note II LCD + Touch Screen Replacement w/Housing - Grey
Samsung Galaxy Note II LCD + Touch Screen Replacement w/Housing - White
Other internal components
Essential Tools:
Safe Pry Opening Tool
Spudger Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Heat Gun/Blow Dryer
Samsung Galaxy Note II Take Apart Repair Guide:​
First, to begin the repair you will need make sure to completely power down your device.
Following powering down the device you can start by taking out the stylus pen and removing the battery cover on back. After the battery cover is removed, take out the battery, memory card, and sim card.
Next use a Small Phillips screwdriver and remove the eleven Small Phillips screws from the device's back housing. In the image below all of the screws are highlighted in red.
Once you have removed all of the screws, take off the device's back housing using a safe open pry tool. Wedge your pry tool into the seam between the chrome bezel and the housing and shim the tool along the sides and edges of the device. This releases the clips in order to remove the housing. Be advised that one of the clips is found just above the battery tray.
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The motherboard should be exposed following the removal of the back housing.
Then you will need to remove four more Small Phillips screws, shown in the image below highlighted in red.
After all the screws have been taken out you can remove the loud speaker assembly near the base of the device.
Using the pry tool you can now release the antenna and pop connectors which hold the motherboard in place. In the diagram below the connectors and antenna are highlighted in green.
While releasing the connections you will also remove the button flex cable, held to the housing by a small amount of adhesive. The cable is highlighted in orange below and is located on the left side of the device, it should be put to the side for now.
Now that the connections have been released, the motherboard can be completely removed. Cautiously remove the motherboard and be sure not to rip or tear the connections that have been released.
You will notice the main camera located on the motherboard. Using your pry tool release the pop connector which holds the camera to the motherboard. Set the motherboard to the side for now.
After you remove the motherboard, additional parts will need to be removed using the pry tool and a Small Flathead screwdriver.
*Figure 3.1* Take out the headphone jack along with the ear speaker.
*Figure 3.2* Remove the front camera and it's sensors.
*Figure 3.3* Using a Small Flathead screwdriver wedge beneath the vibrate motor in order to remove it. The vibrate motor is held in place with relatively strong adhesive and is most easily taken out with the Small Flathead screwdriver.
*Figure 3.4* Next, use the pry tool and lift the antenna cable up and away from the slot and lift away the flex cable.
*Figure 4.1* Using either a heat gun (on low heat) or a blow dryer (on medium heat), heat the sides and corners of the screen for 35 - 50 seconds about an inch from the touch screen to loosen the adhesive holding the front housing to the screen assembly. Do this carefully as to not overheat the screen which could create permanent damage to your device. While heating the device you may encounter stubborn areas that will need to be re-heated so that all of the adhesive is loosened.
*Figure 4.2* Next wedge between the seam along the touch screen and front housing using the pry tool. You will most likely find it best to begin with the seam located on the side of the device, and then work toward the bottom of the device while making sure to avoid any damage to the lower flex cable.
*Figure 4.3* Keep prying along the seams of the touch screen in order to release it from the housing and loosen the adhesive holding it in place. The top of the device is more easily loosened using a spudger tool to ensure no damage is caused to the flex cables. While still using the spudger tool, pry above the LCD screen in order to capably feed the cable through the housing slot.
*Figure 4.4* Remove the remaining adhesive that covers up the flex cable.
*Figure 4.5* Near the bottom of the device, using the spudger tool, remove the home button flex cable.
*Figure 4.6* Lastly, take out the home button by simply pushing it out of its housing.
Finally, put in the new parts and throw out the damaged parts that need to be replaced, and reverse the above steps in order to reassemble your device.
Repairsuniverse's Repair Guides are for informational and instructional purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.

i have note n7100 screen cracked and nothing sees on screen.
i need buy a touch digitizer to replace cracked one from ebay.there are lot of chinese sellers who sell touch screen of n7100.
do you think those touch digitizer wiil work on mine?
any specific number to check wether it is compatible to n7100?

Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini Screen Replacement Guide

This repair guide will show you how to take apart the Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini to perform a basic repair and help you fix any problem you may come across such as a cracked or shattered touch screen digitizer, a damaged LCD screen, or other faulty internal parts such as blown speakers, buttons not reading and torn flex cables. We welcome you to use this repair guide to help you in the disassembly of your Galaxy S4 Mini to fix or replace to get your device looking and working like new again!
This guide will help install the following Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini part(s):
Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini LCD + Touch Screen Assembly - Blue
Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini LCD + Touch Screen Assembly - White
Other Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini parts
Tools Required:
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Safe Open Pry Tool
Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini Repair Guide:​
When starting this repair make sure that your device is completely powered off.
Now start by removing the back battery cover. Note, to remove the cover it’s easiest to remove it by lifting the tab near the power button. Once this is done, take out the battery and the sim card, and memory card (the cards are found directly beneath the battery).
(Figure 1) Now with a Small Phillips Screwdriver, remove the ten (10) Small Phillips screws that are located on the back housing (circled in red).
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(Figure 2.1 - 2.2) Now with the screws removed you can remove the back housing. Using either a Safe Open Pry Tool or even your fingernail, wedge between the seam of the housing and the screen assembly and slide it along all the sides releasing the clips that hold the housing in place. (including top and bottom)
With the back housing removed, you will have to release all the motherboard connections in order to remove the motherboard from the housing.
(Figure 2.3) At the top left corner you will remove a small metal cover with some tweezers, which covers the camera and proximity sensor.
(Figure 2.4) Now there are (6) pop up flex cable connectors on the motherboard that need to be released and disconnected using the pry tool (all highlighted in green). Pop them up from under the connections and lift up to release them.
(Figure 3.1) Now you can swing over the motherboard to the right (Be careful! There is still a cable connected from underneath the motherboard), Now lift up the left side and slowly flip the motherboard to the right taking notice where its connected still to the motherboard. Note, during this step the ear speaker flex cable (top right) might fallout (this is normal), place it to the side for your reassembly later.
(Figure 3.2) With the motherboard exposed, you will now release the screen by releasing the flex cable. This will release the motherboard fully.
(Figure 3.3) Now that the motherboard has been removed, you’re able to access and remove the main camera which is held in by its own jaw connector. Using the pry tool lift the black tab to the left of the camera, and lift and release the camera.
(Figure 3.4) The Headphone Jack located near the top right may now be taken out.
(Figure 4.1) The next component to remove is the Vibrate Motor; this is located near the top left (highlighted in purple). This part will take a little more prying because it is held down with surprisingly strong adhesive. It is important to use caution as the flex cable is very fragile.
(Figure 4.2) Using the pry tool remove the Dock Port flex cable, this is done by releasing the microphone (highlighted in orange) and pry beneath the cable in order to loosen and remove it.
(Figure 4.3) Lastly, you will remove the sim card and micro SD card flex cable. To release the cable lift up on the tab, and then pull out the flex cable holding it in.
(Figure 4.4) Now you can lift out the flex cable using your pry tool, use caution as the flex cable is easily torn.
You have now completed the disassembly of your device.
Notice: Repairs Universe's guides are for informational purposes only. Please perform this repair at your own risk.

Howto continue disassembly of Samsung Galaxy S4 mini to replace Touch Screen Assembly
Dear Repairs Universe Team,
thank you for this excellent guide and the detailed photos provided!
I have, however, a question about continuing the assembly of the Samsung Galaxy S4 mini on order to perform the complete glass/screen and digitizer replacement.
After purchasing the "Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini LCD & Touch Screen Assembly - Black Mist" from your online shop and watching the corresponding disassembly video guide posted on the same site, it seems to me that the process is not completed yet.
Judging from similar videos about the 'not mini' Samsung Galaxy S4, it seems to be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the glue of the old glass/screen and digitzier in order to remove it from the plastic frame of the phone.
Is this correct?
Would it be possible for you to add this part of the disassembly process in order to help with caveats such as heat limitations of the components and menu/home/back button disassemby?
Thanks again for your help!

Thank you for your clear guidance！