My brother bought 2 off ebay... for $8 (IDK if I can post the double facepalm image here, so Ill just leave the placeholder)
П
Apart from having compatibility issues with many devices, and being very short. Can they damage my device?
I am thinking of a cold heat soldering iron, where you have a very high resistance conductors (the chinese cable in my case) and a short thin segment which connects them and which melts (my phone´s battery)
I bought 3 6ft micro usb to usb cables to use with various stuff on eBay for like $5. I haven't had a problem or compatibility issues with anything I've used so far.
Sometimes it's just the luck of the draw with Chinese stuff on ebay. I also have bought cheap cables off ebay and they work perfectly fine. There is a higher probability that the cable's construction will not be as well done as from a legit company manufacturing these cables. With questionable quality work, chances of over heating while charging, and cause of fire may be higher. These issues also can be said about legit cables too where somehow, a faulty one passed QA testing. Usually you probably won't have any problems, but I would assume a chance for issues may be higher for cheaper cables, and cheap anything for that matter.
Better buy directly
I think thats is better buy directly to the chinnesse shop, bad quality but more cheap.
I would not recommend that you use them, because I had a really bad experience bought one such pretty cheap it did not work My advice buy directly from the shop or official distributor.
battery charger
I've stayed away from these as they can supposedly shorten batter life. Not sure if this is verified though.
veriessa system
Charging electronics are in the battery, but maybe a bad charger can give so bad voltage that the electronics cannot filter it out properly.
Some chinese cables are too thin and cause your phone to charge slowly or not at all.
It's cheap but bad quality
Related
No, this is not another "what's a good car charger."
This is simply a warning post and I have a question about car chargers.
My warning is that the car charger that I bought, started burning after using it couple of times. Now this is the first time that it has ever happened to me. The product is this ebay link. So just putting this out there for those that will search in this forum in the future.
Now, the question is (which should go in the Q&A forum, but might as well just put it in this topic). I'm pretty sure the fault is of the car charger. So for those that know a lot about chargers and cars, do you think it was the chargers fault or the cigarette port in the car's fault for burning?
I don't have another car charger to test out and want to get your opinions before buying another car charger.
Thanks
I'd guess it is the charger. The design looks very similar to this one. From the reviews and the comments the DE design doesn't have a fuse, so if something goes wrong it will go up in flames. There was one mention of it causing sparking and car fuse blowing but that was related to the long rail touching the wrong place and causing a short.
The problem with eBay is you don't really know where that part comes from. It can be overstock of a know good charger (best case), it can be rejected 2nd quality stuff w/ or w/o reworks (can be ok, but more often not - some have reported loose solder flying around in the case) or it contains inferior parts to keep the cost or basically defraud the buyer. From my observations the 500mA chargers are a well known quantity in the market and you can get good ones easily. The 1000mA are not that frequent, but becoming more popular. I have bought 5 such chargers (3 wall, 2 car) all were sub-standard designs. Luckily I just complained to the eBay seller and the game me a full or partial refund. At <$3 a piece it's not worth it to send them back.
My preference is to find a US seller (if they have been around they screen what they sell to avoid problems) or get it from dealextreme who has user reviews and a name brand for a china seller. I'm looking to get their blackberry 2A charger and maybe a couple of 1A usb one as soon as I heard back (~1-2 weeks) from someone who has bought them.
Thanks for your input. just bought a motorola charger from amazon. Hopefully I don't experience this again.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
The USB Mini-B jack (the USB port) on my LG P930 Nitro HD needs replacement. (This is partly because the battery life on the device is so short I have had to connect the thing constantly, using a variety of cables). The metal guides in the socket first appeared to separate from the male plug and are now a mangled mess, mostly at the back of the connector.
Does anyone have experience with do-it-yourself (DIY) replacement of this port?
The phone is rooted and running a custom ROM, so I can't take it for warranty.
I find many tutorials on screen replacement, but all I can find online are the replacement parts (such as this). Not a word, anywhere it seems, on replacing that port.
It's not easy to tell from either phone teardown video or the part itself, but it appears the socket is soldered to the board. . If that's true, I won't attempt it.
Also, does anyone have experience with the national myPhoneMD franchises regarding hardware repair ?
I can't speak to the level of complexity for doing this replacement, but I can tell you that indeed it requires soldering and not your run-of-the-mill soldering that you can do with any hobby soldering iron either. The 4 posts from that part you linked are just to hold the component in place...(If I'm not mistaken) there's still the actual USB connectors and they're likely surface-mount (magnifying glass and pinpoint soldering skills required here).
You might be better off with buying extra spare batteries and using apps like WiFi Explorer for accessing files on the SD Card remotely.
micro soldering definitely required
Namuna said:
I can't speak to the level of complexity for doing this replacement, but I can tell you that indeed it requires soldering and not your run-of-the-mill soldering that you can do with any hobby soldering iron either. The 4 posts from that part you linked are just to hold the component in place...(If I'm not mistaken) there's still the actual USB connectors and they're likely surface-mount
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Interesting idea using batteries & WiFi ADB, but this device gets heavy field use and serves as my GPS on long trips. Plus, removing and replacing the Ballistic case is time-consuming. It's really too bad because after the better part of a year, I finally found a stable ROM where the battery would not drain in 2 hours or where the phone spent 1/4 of the time rebooting.
I found a close up photo confirming your observation. The signal lead connections are definitely smaller than my hobby-level solder skill can manage. The part is available from multiple suppliers, so someone somewhere has the skill set to replace it. I just hope it's not a three-week ordeal.
I feel your pain. My young son has been playing with my Nitro and he's nowhere near as anal as I am about not straining the USB cable when connected. Lately I've been noticing that I'm not getting good connections with all the USB cables I usually use (won't charge from the car adapter anymore. )
I'm glad you're even able to use the GPS for extended periods. I'm using a Hyperion fatty and CM10.1 ROM and when the car adapter *was* working, it couldn't keep my Nitro charged while using the GPS...If I couldn't get there within a couple/few of hours, I was screwed....And it's a high-capacity car adapter too.
...These guys need to get this magnetic USB connector to market, ASAP!!!
http://outsmartingtechnologies.com/project/magnetic-usb-connection/
Namuna said:
I'm using a Hyperion fatty and CM10.1 ROM and when the car adapter *was* working, it couldn't keep my Nitro charged while using the GPS...If I couldn't get there within a couple/few of hours, I was screwed....And it's a high-capacity car adapter too.
...These guys need to get this magnetic USB connector to market, ASAP!!!
http://outsmartingtechnologies.com/project/magnetic-usb-connection/
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Click to collapse
GPS: I have the same problem with battery longevity on trips. I could not run the phone continuously--even with the screen off--without going to 0%. On long trips there has to be a "refractory period" for the phone either off or in minimal consumption mode, if I want some battery left at the end of the journey or when I really need the GPS. I've tried a variety of DC chargers, but even the Stanley PC1A09 inverter powering the stock LG A/C adapter ultimately loses the battery fight. I am guessing that the inverter's output does not provide the A/C waveform as a wall outlet.
That magnetic connector looks great, but there would have to be a micro-format version.
None of the local repair shops in New Orleans, Louisiana will take on solder work at this scale. I ordered the $6 part but probably won't even try to install it, as I might destroy the board. Now I'm deciding between a local used locked phone, or a "new" unlocked phone on eBay. One particular seller with the best price has 99% positive reviews, but nearly all the negatives are from people who got used when they paid for new.
Have you tried bringing it to an actual AT&T store? I think we can give up the hope that they'll fix it under warranty, but at least they should be able to fix it at a cost...And if it ends up being cheaper than buying another Nitro used, then you've got a better deal.
My quit working I can charge it by putting something under the cord u might want give that a try it work for me
Sent from my LG-P930 using xda premium
stickman1981 said:
My quit working I can charge it by putting something under the cord u might want give that a try it work for me
Sent from my LG-P930 using xda premium
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That's been my mode for a couple of months. I had ordered a Monoprice cable that didn't fit tightly, but just on my phone (all the other Androids in the house worked fine with it). In retrospect, that was an early sign of trouble.
I think the housing was stretched or distorted by an accidental cable yank months ago, and the socket just deteriorated from there. The short battery life made for more frequent connect-disconnect cycles on the hardware than I would have liked.
I ended up ordering a new replacement with a warranty that I'll probably trade with my son, and then he'll have a plan-protected phone to take to college. He's going to be in Canada and will need an unlocked phone (or else win the lottery). I'll take his locked AT&T phone for myself.
And I will take the bad-socket phone to the AT&T Device store in my area and see what it will cost to replace that port. If it's under $80-100, I'll probably go for it.
Hello.
I bought an used Nexus 5 recently, but it has extremely long charging time (5 hours) with included charger (LG MCS-02ED with 850mA power output). The charger seem to be dying, since it gives c.a. half of the output of my second Motorola 850mA charger, that charges the phone in c.a. 2,5 hour. I also guess that MCS-02ED is not the charger that is originally shipped with Nexus 5, right?
So I am looking for a replacement and I found the mcs-04er on aliexpress for US $6.80 (can't post link as a new user, but there are only two auctions there and only one with that price, from edre international trade co . , ltd ).
Any chances that it is really genuine and won't fry my phone? I prefer to buy LG branded charger, in case of warranty repair.
Regards
Michael
Ask yourself... is anything from china genuine?
Why don't you buy any of the those genuine micro usb chargers. You can try searching for Blackberry Folding Blade charger as well. Go for it in case you're able to find one.
Or just get this one http://www.androidpolice.com/2015/0...er-for-just-7-99-8-off-with-coupon-on-amazon/
Hey !
Thanks for answers.
peachpuff, I generally agree, although considering that genuine chargers are sold with similar prices in USA I hoped that this charger could be genuine for almost 7 USD. I am from Poland (didn't mention it, sorry), so shipping cost from from USA are too high (for a charger), that's why I was searching aliexpress (low or no postage cost).
I am looking for LG chargers, because in case of warranty repair I am affraid, I will have problem, if I don't return phone with original LG charger.
Lg g4 1.8a charger (mcs-04ed) teardown
I want make new thread but I was not able because my posts is less than ten
my charger cable is not good (OEM) and my phone(G4) charge with this slowly and i found a shot length power bank cable that can charge my phone from0-100% only in 98 min(01:38).
after 30 min the charger and cable ( usb A side) heat and after several time it made a bad smell(overheated PCB smell) and I decide to open charger.
the problem was from output schottky diode and it was warmed and burnt pcb(fiber glass)
but the charger had not any problem so I add some flux and re solder this part and I wash PCB with acetone
but unfortunately when I assembled charger for test it was a little wet and it exploded .
two sr4,sr5 resistor and fusible resistor and mosfet are damaged
and also i cant attach image
Mob came with charger made in china by dogee or dongdee not sure about model, my suggestion don't go for lg chargers they are mostly cheap copies rather you should buy form some quality brand like remax which offers great quality in comparatively less price
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Auk...bile-Phone-Smart-Charger-for/32636318473.html
I bought this one a couple of weeks ago, it charges at 1700mAh easily (net). It's able to charge up to 3 iPads at full speed (I've tested 1 iPad, my nexus and a samsung, it worked).
I have been browsing the web when suddenly my apps shut down and I got this message. This happened twice. What's going on?
Here are some screenshots
Maybe find the offending app?
Try booting in safe mode.
The same thing happens in safe mode. I suspect it has more to do with the fact that I recently opened the back cover to replace the USB connector and left speaker. Maybe I have disturbed contacts or some cooling components on the mainboard.
Akopps said:
The same thing happens in safe mode. I suspect it has more to do with the fact that I recently opened the back cover to replace the USB connector and left speaker. Maybe I have disturbed contacts or some cooling components on the mainboard.
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Did you disturb the heat sink on the cpu?If you did you will need some heat sink compound to mount it properly to the heat sink.
I run geekbench with the cover open and as the tablet was heating up I touched the backs of all mainboard parts and it appears that the part that gets hot is where the USB charger cable plugs into it. So I am guessing that this is related to the incident when I apparently "fried" the USB charger by plugging it into a malfunctioning USB hub. I changed the USB charger and its connector, but I guess this did not help.
I could change the mainboard if I could find one cheap. Gosh, those things are expensive. I see vendors selling them on ebay for well above 100USD, a surprising price for a three year old, used part. Those that are cheaper are sold already defective. For comparison, the mainboards of Samsung Galaxy S5 phone, which was a 2014 device of comparable performance are sold for just 30 bucks.
Akopps said:
I run geekbench with the cover open and as the tablet was heating up I touched the backs of all mainboard parts and it appears that the part that gets hot is where the USB charger cable plugs into it. So I am guessing that this is related to the incident when I apparently "fried" the USB charger by plugging it into a malfunctioning USB hub. I changed the USB charger and its connector, but I guess this did not help.
I could change the mainboard if I could find one cheap. Gosh, those things are expensive. I see vendors selling them on ebay for well above 100USD, a surprising price for a three year old, used part. Those that are cheaper are sold already defective. For comparison, the mainboards of Samsung Galaxy S5 phone, which was a 2014 device of comparable performance are sold for just 30 bucks.
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Click to collapse
try to resolder the USB connector, if there is bad joint, that could cause a larger than expected resistance on the 5v or 0v return, this will act as a heating element at the solder joint.
In normal operation there can be up to 2A flowing through that connector, it will heat +10 degree even when functioning correctly, any extra resistance at that point is dangerous since its almost maxed out on thermal dissapation anyway.
Akopps said:
I run geekbench with the cover open and as the tablet was heating up I touched the backs of all mainboard parts and it appears that the part that gets hot is where the USB charger cable plugs into it. So I am guessing that this is related to the incident when I apparently "fried" the USB charger by plugging it into a malfunctioning USB hub. I changed the USB charger and its connector, but I guess this did not help.
I could change the mainboard if I could find one cheap. Gosh, those things are expensive. I see vendors selling them on ebay for well above 100USD, a surprising price for a three year old, used part. Those that are cheaper are sold already defective. For comparison, the mainboards of Samsung Galaxy S5 phone, which was a 2014 device of comparable performance are sold for just 30 bucks.
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Click to collapse
Actually there's no need to change mainboard. This is a common problem of Samsung tablets when battery connector has cracked solder joints.
This is an example
Anyone knows how to solder can do it within 5 minutes
This is an example for a Tab 3, but similar to any Samsung tablets, most use the same battery connector
I fix mine and other tablets having problem of quick discharge, charging or overheating just by resolder the battery connector.
I just picked up an allegedly working T800 with 32GB board (!!) and a cracked screen for only 89 bucks on ebay. Considering my mad soldering skillz, I probably would need to have a backup board anyways, plus I could use this tablet for other spare parts, like the battery. The attachment shows precisely the area that seems to get hot to touch.
so would 50c for the cpu and battery be normal for this tablet? (was running a game)
?my was boost on 1600Mhz 81°C all the time
What should I do now? I bought the device on Gearbest.
Pics: http://imgur.com/a/9aZVH
I don't think you can do anything. You were not using the original charger so most likely any warranty claims will be rejected.
Yup, not a stock cable there. Try to remove it gently with pliers. And buy Anker cable
The best advice is to try your best to clear it up. Hope hard that it didn't break the port...
And I also stand by Anker charging cables. Get ones CERTIFIED for quick charge 3 if you want to use the stock charger.
Really sucks but that's what the cheap cables do with the higher voltage / amps of new phones
That happens when you use cheap cables.
Most damage seems to be cosmetic and to the plastic cover of the Mi6 and the cable itself. With care remove the cable and melted plastic