[Q] Best Camera setting for Concert Hall - Galaxy Note II Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hi,
When at a concert the stage is often very bright, and the Hall very dark.
I tried several setting and ended up using HDR, but it is not that great, on the picture people on stage turns like they have a light spot on them (which is the case of course) and are hard to recognise.
I see sometimes recommendation for Low Light, but it feels like actually there is too much light.
Has anybody found a setting that fits this situation ?

Related

T-Mobile TP2 Camera Stutter

Is it normal for the TP2 picture to stutter when trying to take a picture. If there is perfect lighting in the picture there is no stuttering in the picture, but if there is a light source or if it goes from the dark to a light area it stutters badly as it attempts to balance light levels and focus.
Does anyone else have this issue or is this normal?
When you say "stutter" I suppose you mean that your pics come out blurry due to your device shaking in your hands?
This is normal in low light conditions. Since there's not enough light, the camera compensates by slowing the shutter speed to allow more light to pass through the lens. The bad side to this is the slow shutter speed will also exaggerate any camera movement and this translates to blurry photos unless your device is fixed on a stationary object (and your subject is not moving).
yes! that is exactly what I am seeing. Yeah, i did not know that was normal. the screen refresh was so choppy it is hard to take a clear picture in low light. This is my first nice phone ive had and i am not used to all the features. Thanks for explaining that to me, I appriciate it!
You're very welcome, man. Just so you know, this isn't specific to our TP2. It applies for all cameras. Those with a flash would help a bit, but not much if it is really dark.
If you try to take a picture with any camera outdoors at night without a tripod and flash, it'll come out terrible.
I just laughed when I read the TP2 camera was 3.2 with no flash.
I will never use the camera because the pictures will come out looking like crap 90% of the time.
The camera for me is honestly useless. But oh well, the rest of the phone makes up for it.
camera works good with barcorama app. takes decent pics in well lit areas

Camera question - Washed out pictures?

Hey Guys....thanks in advance for any replies...
Can anyone give me some tips on how to take decent pictures with the Evo? In most cases I am taking pictures in dimly lit restaurants or bars (no comments please, heh heh) and most of the time the pictures are completely washed out due to the flash coming on and lighting up the subjects faces like a Christmas tree.
Does anyone know if there are settings, other software or any other tips that can be used to help me take better pictures??
Thank you!
From the camera app,there is a tab on the left side in landscape mode. If you slide it open, choose settings, then brightness a slider will open. I've found that in dim to dark conditions, best results with flash on are with the brightness set to around -2.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Theres an old photographer's trick, not the most elegant of solutions but putting a piece of scotch tape over the flash will help diffuse the light and also get rid of the harsh shadows from the flash.
bluehaze said:
Theres an old photographer's trick, not the most elegant of solutions but putting a piece of scotch tape over the flash will help diffuse the light and also get rid of the harsh shadows from the flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly this has started to cross my mind too. The two flashes 'sounds' like a good idea...but they are WAY TO HOT for a close up (within 6 feet or so). Now they did actually work pretty well at dusk for a test shot about 12 feet away. (So that should tell you they are too bright for close work)
I am thinking of maybe taping just one and testing.
But you could use scotch tape as posted, because the frosted look of the tape would help diffuse the light. (Remembering it will diminish ability to flash far away.)
Have to start treating this more like cameras now...they are going to require more than point and forget.
Idea
I asked the same question a few weeks ago - why doens't the EVO do light metering.
One though would be to use a LED application to turn on the LED light - maybe on low, and don't use the flash on the camera application? I know a pain to do (and a loss of coolness points) but might work?
if you really want to be photo savvy go to a photo store and get a sheet of diffusion gel, and just place a small cut out in between the flashes and the battery cover. also always shoot as low as you can go with the ISO, the problem with the EVO camera is that when in low light situations it switches to a high ISO, but it doesn't factor in the fact that the flash is going to go off, so when the flash goes off, the high ISO coupled with the strong flash means super overexposed picture. so either leave the camera at iso 100 or 200 and try shooting that way or try the diffusion i stated earlier.
the camera is just very badly coded. for instance what the camera should be doing is lighting the flash to focus, read exposure and compensate, then take the picture with the proper level flash. as it is now all it does is try to focus completely in the dark, then just flash the flash at full power while its taking the picture. it really is a terribly coded camera.
its like the people over at HTC basically just added the lcd's just to add them, i mean we already know that the LCD can be used at various levels of intensity...its a damn shame...
Are there no apps out that improve the cameras function? i figured there would be.

[Q] Camera Flash too bright? or Delay?

Guys, I cant use my camera led flash, since all the photos taken with it produces pics that are too bright.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/20120617233517.jpg/
am I the only one who has this problem?
I do find the flash rather bright, but I think it's a distance thing. I would generally only use it from distance of 3-5m in poor light. Most of the time I set my flash to forced off as I generally find the pictures are better even in lowish light.
Guys problem solved. It was the Capdase soft jacket case I bought.
for some reason the case is affecting the LED light of the flash.

My pictures all turned out horrible! (blurry and over-exposed)

Ok, let me start out by saying I know very very little about photography. I pretty much just leave it on Auto. I mean, I know how to switch between different presets (Auto, Portrait, Night, HDR, etc.) and that you can tap to focus there.... that's about it. I don't know how to set ISO levels or anything else.
Anyway, so I was at a 3-day event a few weeks ago, and was hoping that my M8 was going to be a huge quality boost over my EVO 3D. Sure, the photos would be 4MP instead of 5 (Though most of my photos were 2MP anyway since I mostly shot in 3D) but I figured the phone being several years newer and having high low-light performance would offset that.... boy was I wrong.
I noticed that my indoor photos were kinda fuzzy and blurry, even with my hand held still (thank you HTC for removing the OIS...) so I resorted to taking the same photos 2-4 times and hope I can pick a "best shot" out of the batch later when I could review all my photos on a PC. (Yes, I know I can hold the shoot button to make it auto-snap quick images, but I wouldn't have time to review and select the best out of each one for each photo I took). Even with this many of them even with perfect focus were still pretty terribly grainy/noisy, some even out of a batch of 5-6 remained blurry.
Outdoor where there is a lot of sunlight...... had it's OWN problems! Any object, sign, wall, or person clothed in white was overexposed to near comical levels! I had taken many shots, both with the subjects in focus and out (on a shaded area so it used more light on the subjects) and both on auto and flash off. This resulted in photos that were kinda badly over-exposed to photos that were so badly overexposed anything with white in it just looks like a bunch of white blobs! Even of the ones where it managed to get decent exposure on the subjects, the image was overly dark and anything not in focus which was white was still overexposed to the point of any and all detail being lost. (Seriously, it was so bad that there were signs which just looked like a solid white rectangle or circle, no words or symbols could even be noticed on them).
I took over 2000 photos (over 4 gigs worth) during those three days, mainly just mashing the shutter button at slightly different settings and angles hoping one out of every 20 or so would at least be usable... and to say that I can even get 100 to 200 "passable" photos out of these 2000+ would be a stretch!
The other day I was experimenting with the HDR option that I was advised to try which should hopefully alleviate these under/over exposed issues. Purposely shooting white objects in bright outdoor conditions in different conditions with HDR on and off. Didn't really help. The condition or light focus on which I shot them in HDR mode seemed to not matter, but the image was still fairly over-exposed. Not AS bad as when the focus is off the white object, but still pretty close (and still nowhere near as good as when the focus IS on the white object). On top of that, many of the HDR photos looked washed-out and with dulled colors (I thought HDR made colors more vivid?).
So I am at a loss, I don't know if this is a problem with my new expensive phone which I am stuck with's camera, if I am just using it horribly incorrectly, or both. (I remember several reviews mentioning over-exposure being an issue, but I didn't expect it to be worse than my EVO 3D, and it was mostly for background objects).
Does any have any tips or advice on what I can do?
Cyber Akuma said:
Ok, let me start out by saying I know very very little about photography. I pretty much just leave it on Auto. I mean, I know how to switch between different presets (Auto, Portrait, Night, HDR, etc.) and that you can tap to focus there.... that's about it. I don't know how to set ISO levels or anything else.
Anyway, so I was at a 3-day event a few weeks ago, and was hoping that my M8 was going to be a huge quality boost over my EVO 3D. Sure, the photos would be 4MP instead of 5 (Though most of my photos were 2MP anyway since I mostly shot in 3D) but I figured the phone being several years newer and having high low-light performance would offset that.... boy was I wrong.
I noticed that my indoor photos were kinda fuzzy and blurry, even with my hand held still (thank you HTC for removing the OIS...) so I resorted to taking the same photos 2-4 times and hope I can pick a "best shot" out of the batch later when I could review all my photos on a PC. (Yes, I know I can hold the shoot button to make it auto-snap quick images, but I wouldn't have time to review and select the best out of each one for each photo I took). Even with this many of them even with perfect focus were still pretty terribly grainy/noisy, some even out of a batch of 5-6 remained blurry.
Outdoor where there is a lot of sunlight...... had it's OWN problems! Any object, sign, wall, or person clothed in white was overexposed to near comical levels! I had taken many shots, both with the subjects in focus and out (on a shaded area so it used more light on the subjects) and both on auto and flash off. This resulted in photos that were kinda badly over-exposed to photos that were so badly overexposed anything with white in it just looks like a bunch of white blobs! Even of the ones where it managed to get decent exposure on the subjects, the image was overly dark and anything not in focus which was white was still overexposed to the point of any and all detail being lost. (Seriously, it was so bad that there were signs which just looked like a solid white rectangle or circle, no words or symbols could even be noticed on them).
I took over 2000 photos (over 4 gigs worth) during those three days, mainly just mashing the shutter button at slightly different settings and angles hoping one out of every 20 or so would at least be usable... and to say that I can even get 100 to 200 "passable" photos out of these 2000+ would be a stretch!
The other day I was experimenting with the HDR option that I was advised to try which should hopefully alleviate these under/over exposed issues. Purposely shooting white objects in bright outdoor conditions in different conditions with HDR on and off. Didn't really help. The condition or light focus on which I shot them in HDR mode seemed to not matter, but the image was still fairly over-exposed. Not AS bad as when the focus is off the white object, but still pretty close (and still nowhere near as good as when the focus IS on the white object). On top of that, many of the HDR photos looked washed-out and with dulled colors (I thought HDR made colors more vivid?).
So I am at a loss, I don't know if this is a problem with my new expensive phone which I am stuck with's camera, if I am just using it horribly incorrectly, or both. (I remember several reviews mentioning over-exposure being an issue, but I didn't expect it to be worse than my EVO 3D, and it was mostly for background objects).
Does any have any tips or advice on what I can do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is an Anti-shake mode. I'd check your lenses for scratches, sometimes the coating gets scratched and causes problems. It can be removed.
Incidentally my lens is perfect and nothing at all wrong with the photos it takes.

Note 10+ camera - smeared looking photos

Is anyone having camera issues?
For whatever reason, when I try to take a photo of my dog, the face looks smeared. Roughly 80-90% of the time. While on my iphone it looks great...I'm kinda bummed out about this and wondering if this is either an issue with my unit, or if this is a common thing with Samsung.
Also, just for some more info, I've tried turning on/off hdr, scene optimizer, and whenever I am ready to take a picture, it looks stunning. Then I hit the shutter button, and it turns out like poop. Barely half the quality of what it looked like before I hit the shutter button.
Here are two pics to compare so you can see what I mean. If anyone has any info regarding this please let me know, thanks.
Samsung
Iphone
resetoriginal said:
Is anyone having camera issues?
For whatever reason, when I try to take a photo of my dog, the face looks smeared. Roughly 80-90% of the time. While on my iphone it looks great...I'm kinda bummed out about this and wondering if this is either an issue with my unit, or if this is a common thing with Samsung.
Also, just for some more info, I've tried turning on/off hdr, scene optimizer, and whenever I am ready to take a picture, it looks stunning. Then I hit the shutter button, and it turns out like poop. Barely half the quality of what it looked like before I hit the shutter button.
Here are two pics to compare so you can see what I mean. If anyone has any info regarding this please let me know, thanks.
Samsung
Iphone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have always seen this happen on Samsung phones (S8, S9, and S10) when taking pictures in certain lighting situations. Especially inside when taking pictures of a rug or anything slightly fluffy. It is as if it is trying to apply the beauty mode to everything.
Try to get the AF to lock on to the animal's eyes.
A good pro cam can most times; it's a small but high contrast target.
-If you don't grab the eye(s) you lose the shot-
I haven't done any research how this cam's AF works; normally you would point focus AF although it may still target the hair as it's a high contrast target too.
There are a lot of high contrast targets in this shot, the dog's nose, that chair, the dog's hair and the floor boards. Try to limit potential AF targets by keeping the composure simpler and less cluttered with high contrast targets if you intend on capturing a face with the eyes in focus.
Getting closer to the subject makes an AF lock on the eye more likely. Try punching up the yellow focus/tracking square.
Worse with this cam's large aperture it makes for a shallow DOF which means a spot on focus is needed. The aperture setting is fixed so you can't stop it down to something reasonable like f/5.6 however this cam is sharpest at it's fixed aperture. Backing up therefore may help get more of the subject in focus. You need to learn to see through the camera's eye, as it sees rather than your eyes.
It is much more limited than the superb human visual system...
Manual focus is sometimes the only sure fire way to do it. In the pro mode it does have manual focus but lacks the smooth ring control of a good piece of glass found on stand alone cam systems.
A trade off... it's only a smartphone.
First, nice looking dog.
A couple of questions.
What were the lighting conditions?
Was your dog moving?
Sent from my SM-T727V using Tapatalk
Samsung applies way to much noise reduction destroying the details of a photo. This is why it appears like that. Also, there's nasty shutter lag with the stock cam...so you press the shutter to take the pic but it doesn't happen right away simply because hdr is always on no matter if you have the switch off or not. Basically Samsung have rendered there stock camera useless. Get the latest GCam port from arnova....all problems solved.

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