Develop Bugs

FIX BAD RECEPTION PROBLEM

I tried looking all over the net and within the many forums and could not find any articles relating to repairing the bad reception on the universal units.
Here is my solution, 1) download the UNIVERSAL SERVICE MANUAL from the ftp site here on forum.xdadevelopers.com 2) Follow the instruction on disassembling the unit up to the point where it shows how to remove the antenna. 3) Remove the antenna and from the back of the antenna unit you will see two metal prongs on top and two metal prongs on the side.
4) There is a large metal plate on the front of antenna housing and a small metal strip off to the side of the plastic housing. 5) Take a small strip of aluminium foil (or cigarette pack foil) and roll it into a small roll that covers the back of the plastic housing and fits neatly into the grooves of the back of the white plastic antenna housing. 6) The two metal prongs that correspond to the large metal plate must be lifted gently to allow the foil to make contact with them and be placed underneath the prongs and not on top of the prongs. DO NOT PLACE THE FOIL IN CONTACT WITH THE TWO OTHER PRONGS OF THE SMALL METAL PLATE AS THIS WILL SHORT THE UNIT. 7)Reinstall the antenna.
You will notice once you have finished assembling the unit and have turned it back on that the reception indicator does not show full strenghth, however from my experience the call quality and reception is excellent even when there is only 1 or 2 bars showing and as of yet I have had no hang up or missed calls.
PLEASE NOTE THE ABOVE PROCEDURE VOIDS ANY AND ALL WARRANTIES

how about some pictures mate ?

adolfotregosa said:
how about some pictures mate ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just download the Service manual from link:
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Universal/UNniversalL_Service_Manual_CONFIDENTIAL.pdf

pictures of what he did

how do you get those littel rubber plugs out for the external antenna.
thanks!
Sky

the above link requires a password ... would u tell us about the theory behind this ???

Username and password: XDA

hell yeah! BUMP!! please tell us more about this! I'm having reception problems but I wish pictures before tearing this unit appart!

Has anyone (besides the poster of this topic) tried this.
And I know there are pictures in the manual, but we do want some more pictures of the procedure.
Like a picture of the two metal prongs on top and two metal prongs on the side
Thnx

[MOD][UPDATED][PICS] Inductive Charging with Palm Touchstone

Alright so I think I have success with the using the touchstone inductive charging dock and palm pre coil on the Incredible 2. I unfortunately dont have a camera other than the one on my phone so I will have to update this post with pictures later.
The process was fairly simple seeing as HTC did most of the work for us by exposing the 4 pins below the battery.
The top two pins are positive and the bottom two are negative (I believe as it is working for me)
I taped the palm pre coil directly to the inside of the battery cover. The top solder point on the palm pre coil's chip is negative and the bottom solder point is positive. I ran two thin wires down to the 4 posts and soldered them on. I put putty in between the 4 posts and solder points so that no flexing and shorting would occcur. The 4 posts are springy so the wires were able to move and shut the phone off on me on more then 1 occasion.
After putting the battery cover carefully back on the phone I was able to magnetically stick the phone to the touchstone without having to sand or shave the plastic. Phone has been charging for a little over an hour now and it appears to be working. Ill keep this updated in case anything changes
HOW-TO
Follow along in the pictures.
Step 1:
Remove the Inductive coil and magnets from the Palm Pre battery door. If you use the original sticky piece you can put this directly on the inside of your battery door (same way it looked on the palm pre)
Step 2:
Solder a thin black wire to the top solder point on the inductive coil chip.
Solder a thin red wire to the bottom solder point on the chip
*Note - I taped my wires down so they wouldnt bundle up and cause the back to pop up. The antennas for the cell radio are built into the battery door so if the case sticks up any you will notice a drop in reception
Step 3:
Solder the red wire to both of the two top pins.
Solder the black wire to both of the bottom two pins
Step 4:
I put putty (wall hanging blue stuff) over the solder points and in between the wires so that neither solder point would touch. If it happens the phone will shutoff and you will have to remove the battery and replace it to get the phone back on
Step 5:
Test before replacing the battery door - It is such a pain to get the cover on and off you mine as well make sure it works the first time
Step 6:
Replace the battery door and make sure it sits snug - shouldnt stick up at all.
Step 7:
PROFIT

And we have success. Overnight charging didn't produce any adverse results. Charges to 100% battery is draining at a normal rate today.
Sent from my ADR6350 using xda premium

Awesome dude. Hopefully you can post pictures soon. Time to go order a touchstone and the battery cover
Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk

I would love to see pics/a guide for this, especially since you can get both the Pre Touchstone and the inductive case for so cheap now. ~$12 not including shipping on Amazon.

I wonder if it would at all be possible to use conductive glue instead of solder, so that you wouldn't melt any plastic by accident as shown in the pictures. lol

this is great! thanks for the pics and the clear step by step tutorial. my parts are all coming in friday. can't wait to try this out. this will be great if it works the way yours does. hopefully i won't mess up anything.

Try try try again...
times_infinity said:
I wonder if it would at all be possible to use conductive glue instead of solder, so that you wouldn't melt any plastic by accident as shown in the pictures. lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes. Well this was a majority my fault. The soldering tip was too large and I ended up resoldering the wires two or three times do to the flexibility of the pins. Thats when i decided to put the putty between the solder points. unfortunately the damage was already done. Ive been having issues with the phone prior to doing this install so I will probably just exchange it under warranty anyhow.
Solder glue isnt a bad idea - I may pick some of that up for the replacement phone.

This looks great! Awesome work! Just picked up a Inc2. Got tired of my DX. Do you think this would work with an extended battery/door? Would definitely love to have this working.

jacket1 said:
This looks great! Awesome work! Just picked up a Inc2. Got tired of my DX. Do you think this would work with an extended battery/door? Would definitely love to have this working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Entirely depends on how much room is between the extended battery and the battery door. The pinouts and traces wouldnt change.
Ive never been a big fan of having an extended battery so I dont have one lying around to test with. Im sure if you cut a quarter of sheet of paper and then folded it 3 times it would be about the same thickness. You could slide it in there for testing.

hmm.. soo.. tried it.. be careful when doing this! i have no idea what i did wrong, maybe it was the heat from the iron (even though i made sure to lower the temp on my iron) but my phone no longer charges even through the usb. thankfully i have an extra battery with an external battery charger. but yeah this sucks.. thankfully i'm upgrading sometime next month so i'll just have to suck it up switching out batteries every time my phone dies but yeah, be careful when doing this.
EDIT: to make matters worse, it didn't even work. i'm assuming those 4 pins are pretty finicky, and that's probably where my problem lies.
EDIT2: tried to remove all excess solder from the 4 pins and now my charging is working again.. really wanting to try it again but don't want to risk messing something up more permanently this time. ahh!! don't know what to do. i already have 3 touchstones on their way. eventually i'll have to try it again. just seems like soldering for those 4 pins is gonna be a bit tricky.

Not to hate, but why hack up and solder to your phone like that? What's wrong with USB charging again?
I'm not seeing the benefit to this considering one user already broke his.

so i'm gonna try it again.. but, any tips on how i should solder the wire to those 4 little pins? that's defintiely where i messed up the first time. i'm not sure exactly what i need to make sure of when i'm soldering it.

Custom Connector
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Remember to cleanup the area with very little fluid and a Q-tip. These LCD screens are effected by too much alcohol and the rosin will etch the circuit if left dirty.

cac2us said:
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like the ring idea. i'll have to try that out

cac2us said:
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Remember to cleanup the area with very little fluid and a Q-tip. These LCD screens are effected by too much alcohol and the rosin will etch the circuit if left dirty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome idea. I kind of wish I would have done it this way. Im getting a replacement soon anyway since the metal around the outside of the screen has separated and began to lift up. I may go with the sim card idea instead. that actually sounds a bit safer and more aesthetically pleasing.
---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
shoman24v said:
Not to hate, but why hack up and solder to your phone like that? What's wrong with USB charging again?
I'm not seeing the benefit to this considering one user already broke his.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well on a lower level it can be considered innovation. Making a product do something it wasnt intended to do in the first place. I find hardware hacking to be just as much fun as software hacking.
Not to mention on those dark drunken nights when i have a hard time plugging the phone in, now all i have to do is plop it on the touchstone and i have a fully charged phone come the next morning.
Note - I tried installing this in the car using a USB adapter but it doesnt power the touchstone enough. Im looking for a dual usb to single micro usb to see if that works any better.

http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12663&accessoryId=47610
Then all you need is a wireless charging pad.

that adds bulk and costs way more than this mod though.
---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------
cac2us said:
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
having a hard time imagining what that would look like..

shoman24v said:
http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12663&accessoryId=47610
Then all you need is a wireless charging pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bulk is what i was trying to get away from. Not to mention I had one of these already lying around from my Nexus 1 days - when this was actually a really cool mod. Im not a fan of thick devices. If you look at the one from Verizon you realize it adds some significant depth to the phone. I would however like to get my hands on one so I can see how their wiring is done.

Yeah it is noticeably thicker. Not sure how I feel about the price lol.
Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

bik2101 said:
that adds bulk and costs way more than this mod though.
---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------
having a hard time imagining what that would look like..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is single sided copper. You might want to find double sided with plated through holes.
Edit:
To the OP,
You might want to re-up your pics without your ESN...
The fingerprint might pass tho...

Infuse car dock modification

I was uncomfortable on how close the usb connector sat with the S3 installed in the Infuse car dock. You could actually scratch the S3 bezel if you weren't careful inserting the phone into the dock. This is because the bottom of the Infuse is flat and the S3 is rounded, it makes the S3 sit ever so slightly closer to the usb connector. I took apart the dock and lengthen the "channel", trimmed the retention plate, and removed the middle retention clip that holds the rear cover on. End result is it opens up about 1.0-1.5mm more then normal making ample clearance for the S3
Attached are pictures of the modified dock..

How hard was it to remove the sliding part from the rest of the dock? I am planning to take it apart soon (after my microUSB extension cable comes in) but didnt want to try it until I knew the cable worked. It seems like it would just pop off, but I didnt want to apply too much force yet.
I just need the bottom part to maintain charging and audio out. I plan on hiding it under the dash and just using the extension cable.
Appreciate the info.
the_buzz_man

the_buzz_man said:
How hard was it to remove the sliding part from the rest of the dock? I am planning to take it apart soon (after my microUSB extension cable comes in) but didnt want to try it until I knew the cable worked. It seems like it would just pop off, but I didnt want to apply too much force yet.
I just need the bottom part to maintain charging and audio out. I plan on hiding it under the dash and just using the extension cable.
Appreciate the info.
the_buzz_man
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Getting the back cover off without breaking it is a bit tricky. There aren't any screws at all and is held in by only clips. I used two really small flay head screwdrivers and popped it up using the location of the Infuse speaker hole. I then wedged in a hobby knife it and used it to pry up all the edges until the rear popped off. Once off you'll need a #00 Philips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the retention plate on.
Here are some more pics of the modifications.
First pic: Lengthen channel and trimmed retention plate
Second pic: This is how much it opened with out any mods.
Third pic: This is how much it opens after the mods.

Good work, I've taken this apart before on the D710 mount I used previously for my Skyrocket and before I got an Infuse mount for the SIII since everyone was raving about them, but I also noticed that it was a little too close for comfort.... I've just been very careful putting it in, but as much as I drive, it's not something I'll be able to protect every time, so I know what my quick little Sunday project will be today!

I also flipped the Samsung logo around

Feel free to use any of these steps I made for the D710 dock modifications I did in order to get a Skyrocket to fit, it may help others with the disassembly of the back portion in order to get to the screws and the sliders:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24453360&postcount=52

Thanks for the tip! I couldn't get the screws loose, so I carefully dremeled the retention bracket in place. Works like a charm!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

First off, THANKS to vw671!! Soon as I get my dock, I will do this to spare my S3!
KryptosXLayer2 said:
Feel free to use any of these steps I made for the D710 dock modifications I did in order to get a Skyrocket to fit, it may help others with the disassembly of the back portion in order to get to the screws and the sliders
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any link by chance? Searched your created threads and couldn't find it... and too lazy to search more

flawedlegacy said:
Any link by chance? Searched your created threads and couldn't find it... and too lazy to search more
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I get for trying to post the link in the text on my phone! Sorry for being stupid..... Haha, here it is:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24453360&postcount=52

lol, thanks!

sblees said:
Thanks for the tip! I couldn't get the screws loose, so I carefully dremeled the retention bracket in place. Works like a charm!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know what you mean...I had to go to the hardware store to buy a #00 screwdriver to get off the screws! I thought about doing exactly what you did, both will work.

happened to get mine moments ago.... anyone care to explain how to get the back part off exactly? I know you said two clips but where do I pry?
-also, how was the Samsung plate turned around? Already modding it, might as well do that!
EDIT: I GOT IT! -and will try to make a video!
Still interested in the Samsung plate though. tried same method with that and couldn't get it

flawedlegacy said:
happened to get mine moments ago.... anyone care to explain how to get the back part off exactly? I know you said two clips but where do I pry?
-also, how was the Samsung plate turned around? Already modding it, might as well do that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clip locations in attached pic.
To flip the Samsung logo around you have to get it off obviously. I used a single sided razor blade to pry it up. Then you have to trim two tabs off the back, you'll know which two when you try to put it back on.

flawedlegacy said:
happened to get mine moments ago.... anyone care to explain how to get the back part off exactly? I know you said two clips but where do I pry?
-also, how was the Samsung plate turned around? Already modding it, might as well do that!
EDIT: I GOT IT! -and will try to make a video!
Still interested in the Samsung plate though. tried same method with that and couldn't get it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The op mentioned to pry at the headphone jack but I pried it at the rectangle hole (not the usb hole).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

sblees said:
The op mentioned to pry at the headphone jack but I pried it at the rectangle hole (not the usb hole).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did NOT say pry it from the headphone jack.
I said:
"I used two really small flay head screwdrivers and popped it up using the location of the Infuse speaker hole."
Which is the rectangular hole.

yeah, i got that after pulling my head from my @&# and actually trying. Started from the sides and worked around. Not too bad. All I used was razor and screwdriver. Tried the Samsung plate and snapped the razor, lol.
So I just noticed your "dock" part doesn't have any writing on it. Mine says "LOCK" with a triangle showing to slide it up. odd...

vw671 said:
I did NOT say pry it from the headphone jack.
I said:
"I used two really small flay head screwdrivers and popped it up using the location of the Infuse speaker hole."
Which is the rectangular hole.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I must have misunderstood. When you said speaker hole, my first thought was the 3.5mm hole.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

flawedlegacy said:
So I just noticed your "dock" part doesn't have any writing on it. Mine says "LOCK" with a triangle showing to slide it up. odd...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha...waiting for someone to notice that I scratched the front surface trying to pry open the back so I sanded down the front with 2,000 grit sandpaper. I was going to buffing it back to be polished but ended up liking the matte finish. The finish looks better in person than in the pic because a flash was used...the finish sort of matches the Pebble Blue's texture.

any chance of modding it to fit it with a slim case? someone mentioned heat gun in another thread to expand it a little. thoughts?

socalwrx said:
any chance of modding it to fit it with a slim case? someone mentioned heat gun in another thread to expand it a little. thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would have to be an ultra thin case. I'm going to try this out.
http://www.bodyguardz.com/armor-car...-iii-verizon.html?dir=asc&order=sort_priority
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[MOD] Wireless Charging For Your Galaxy S3

First off I take no credit for this post I am simply copying it from the Verizon thread all credit goes to android94301, I just wanted to make this information accessible to the users here. I can tell you this works 100% I've been using it on my phone for a couple days and have been very happy works flawlessly in my car as well as at home (FYI I do have the AT&T variant). The link to the original post is:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1877191
His post was:
Here's my 5 minute wireless charging mod. Now new and improved so that NFC performance is not affected at all. I've also posted step-by-step pictures to aid in explaining the hack.
You need to make one decisions before you start, do you care more about using NFC or using a magnetic compass app? The reason for this is that the magnetic sensors are in the bottom part of the phone. If you use magnets instead of metal disks, this will affect the accuracy of the magnetic sensors, so a compass app will not work well. But if you use the metal disks that come with the Palm case, and you do the hack with the coil very low in the phone case, it won't hold through a case, so you may need to build some sort of rest for it. I use NFC all the time, and never use the compass, so decided to go with replacing the metal disks with N42 magnets. Also, this charging mod works fine through most cases, I've tested it with TPU and with the Rock cases. It might not work through an Otterbox, I haven't tested it. Using magnets makes it more likely to work with cases. Alternatively, you could use the nonmagnetic disks, but rig up some sort of support so that the phone would sit in the right place on the charger without depending on magnets.
No soldering, no carving, the only tools you need are a knife, and some scotch tape! Some sort of plastic tool, even a plastic knife is helpful too.
The shopping list is below, and totals about $17-$19 depending on which vendors you buy from. The links below are from Amazon, for simple one-stop shopping. You may want to buy two Touchstones for home and office. I wouldn't try to cheap out and use another AC adapter, as most of the adapters I tried failed to work with the Touchstone base.
Palm Pixi Charging back
Palm Touchstone charger
Palm Touchstone AC adapter (important, most chargers won't work)
Copper Tape
OR
Copper tape from Michael's
50% off coupon for Michaels
If you want to replace the metal disks with magnets, to make the phone hold better to the charger, then buy these magnets from Amazon, or
http://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnet...s+1/4+1/32
these from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190734931794
Total = $17-$19
Time: 5 minutes.
Okay, here's what you do.
Picture 1: Shows the Palm Pixi charging case as you will recieve it. (I recommend the Palm Pixi, not the Palm Pre, as the polarities are reversed on the Palm Pre.) After you get all the parts, gently peel the black tape off the Palm pixi case, (Picture 2 and 3). Then gently and carefully remove the circuit board (Picture 4), the silver metallic tape (Picture 5), the coil (Picture 6), and metal discs. Preserve the silver foil tape, you will need it. You may also want to preserve the black tape.
Next, I show that you can make a template for positioning the coil and discs/magnets by cutting up the Palm Case (Picture 7), and then drilling out holes where the metal discs and the center of the copper coil are (Pictures 8 and 9). I then made a paper template, which is easier to use (Picture 10).
Now here's the clever part of the hack. Put the coil into your Samsung battery cover upside down, as shown in Picture 11. Then fold the L shaped flexible circuit board up as shown in Pictures 12 and 13. This positions it so that you can make an easy connection to the phone using just copper tape. You will run small pieces of copper tape from the top and the bottom power terminals, which are those little square metal terminals shown in Picture 13. (Picture 14 and 14-5). You can then position the discs or magnets. The easiest way to do this is to plug in your Touchstone base, and then lay the back cover on the Touchstone charger. Put your magnets or discs in, and make sure they align with the magnets in the Touchstone base. Note that if you use magnets, you may have to flip them to get them into the right orientation. Use the template you made to check the alignment. Once you get it like the picture, just tape everything down with scotch tape. (Not the terminals.) (Picture 14-5 shows this clearly.) Note that you need to put back in the silver tape over the coil as shown in Picture 14-5, otherwise it won't charge.
Cut the copper tape down to about 1/8 of an inch, and tape two extensions from the charging terminals in the phone. I used a pencil to poke the tape down into the little wells so there was a good contact. Next, lay down the cover and the phone, and tape copper tape to the charging terminals on the charging coil so they will hit the tape on the phone when you close the cover. I folded under the final 1/8 of an inch to make a little lump, to make it more reliable. (Picture 16).
It's useful to check your work with a voltmeter. Place the battery cover with the mod onto the Touchstone base, and check to make sure you are getting 5.5 volts off of the two terminals. Then after you add the copper tape extensions, make sure they are reading the same voltage. If you are not getting voltage, press the tape harder onto the terminals, as the sticky side is less conductive. You could also fold over the copper tape onto the terminals, and scotch tape it down.
Finally put the back onto the phone, and test to see if you get the popup message in Picture 19. If all is good, then you can open it up again and add back the black tape to make it pretty (if you care). (Picture 15). Then should be no real bulge as shown in Pictures 17 and 18.
If it's not working, there are three possible reasons. One, you have a bad connection between the terminals and the copper tape. Check it with a voltmeter. Two, the copper tape that goes into the phone's charging terminals is not making good contact. Fold over a bit of the tape, and gently jam it down into the terminals. (Gently so that you don't break them off!) The third reason is that the tape pieces from the coil are not making contact with the pieces on the phone, see Picture 16 for how the alignment should be. If you are getting the popup repeatedly, then you have an intermittent connection.
Oh, one more thing. Be sure to test this with your phone at less than 100% charge, as it won't work if your phone is 100% charged! I found this out the hard way!
Close the cover and you are done! It sounds complicated, but actually if you just copy the picture, it takes 5-10 minutes.
Here are the pictures, numbered as in the instructions:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qpymo0x6r...harging Hack
Thank you's appreciated.
A FEW UPDATES: Here are a few updates from clever ideas from our members.
You can use hotglue to attach everything once you are sure of the location.
The disks in the Pixi cover are metal, not magnets. Replace them with magnets for a better hold.
The magnets (and the coil) could go in a case like an otterbox, instead of inside the phone. Then you'd run thin wires into the battery case.
BE aware, the Palm Pre polarities are reversed, so if you use a Palm Pre back, you will have to reverse the polarity.
IF YOU AREN'T GETTING VOLTAGE:
The most common problems are:
1. You are not using a palm charger and cable for the Touchstone. Most chargers/cables won't work, it's better to just use the Palm charger, they cost $4 on Amazon. Are you using the Palm charger/cable?
2. Your copper tape is not making good contact with the little prongs on the flexible circuit board. Try removing the tape and checking voltage on the prongs themselves. Then put the copper tape on firmly, and check the tape for voltage.
3. The coil is not in the right place. You may want to make a template like I suggested to get everything aligned properly. You won't get voltage if the coil is not just right. Use scotch tape to get everything working, then you can use more permanent methods.
4. You used a Palm Pre back instead of a Palm Pixi back, and you forgot that the polarities are reversed on the Pre back.

Link to pics is down
Sent from my SGH-I747

See the original post for a good link to the pictures until the OP fixes his link.

I did this to mine, works great
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda premium
---------- Post added at 02:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 AM ----------
But expect longer charging times
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda premium

On the subject, I've seen that Verizon has a replacement cover for their GS3 that has inductive charging built in. Anyone know if it's compatible with the AT&T GS3?

gamerzworld said:
Anyone know if it's compatible with the AT&T GS3?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reportedly, it's compatible with all models of the GS3.

[Q] Help

I was trying to fix one problem and ended up making another.. Anyone know if the plastic piece that has the latch on the mother board (zif connector maybe?) that holds the ribbon for the charger can be replaced? The tablet still works but I can now no longer charge it or plug it into the computer. If its not possible to fix that then is wireless charging possible? I know I still wouldn't be able to sync with the computer but I would be good with that as long as I can charge it.
Below is a pic of what im talking about

Erm ouch, im no electrician but i think you may have ****ed it...
Right well best thing i can suggest is that a Samsung repair agent might have to look at it.
(Or you could find the pieces on the Interwebs for it)

I've done this a few times to laptop motherboards years ago. Just use some high quality tape to make sure the connection is complete. If it comes undone you'll just have to redo it, but if you use good tape you shouldn't have to. Definitely not the end of the world, they're just cheap plastic clips.

wbaner said:
I was trying to fix one problem and ended up making another.. Anyone know if the plastic piece that has the latch on the mother board (zif connector maybe?) that holds the ribbon for the charger can be replaced? The tablet still works but I can now no longer charge it or plug it into the computer. If its not possible to fix that then is wireless charging possible? I know I still wouldn't be able to sync with the computer but I would be good with that as long as I can charge it.
Below is a pic of what im talking about
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even u manage to wireless charge it and how is tablet suppose to get power from the battery?
The zif connector is cheap, but alot hasssle to remove the board and dont know if the EMI shield is soldered into the board or with screw like Note 10.1 had.
Hard to see from this disassemble video. (scroll to end)
If u got good soldering skills and can find the zif connector part. Then its worth a try.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOzrRu8PB2Y&list=WL&index=3

Backyard repairs
All you need to do is achieve 2 things.
1. Locate it so that the cable contacts line up with the pins in the connector.
2. Apply pressure on the cable so it has good contact.
Using your fingers put pressur on it and check that its charging when plugged into the usb.
Then tape it in position.
To get the pressure on it, cut a piece of plastic and tape it on the area where it contacts the pins.
Then cut some rubber so that its thick enough such that it puts pressure on that plastic bit when its put back together.
Tape that rubber in position and put cover back on.
Should last, but if not just redo it again and get the rubber thickness right.

warboat said:
All you need to do is achieve 2 things.
1. Locate it so that the cable contacts line up with the pins in the connector.
2. Apply pressure on the cable so it has good contact.
Using your fingers put pressur on it and check that its charging when plugged into the usb.
Then tape it in position.
To get the pressure on it, cut a piece of plastic and tape it on the area where it contacts the pins.
Then cut some rubber so that its thick enough such that it puts pressure on that plastic bit when its put back together.
Tape that rubber in position and put cover back on.
Should last, but if not just redo it again and get the rubber thickness right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha.. I was messing around and figured this out.. only I put a piece of cardboard box on it and taped it.. put the cover back on it and its charging again.

wbaner said:
haha.. I was messing around and figured this out.. only I put a piece of cardboard box on it and taped it.. put the cover back on it and its charging again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it says charging but the percent is still going down?
Going to power off the tablet and see what happens.. ugh
Also watched the video that was posted and I cant really tell much from the video.. if you can just buy one of those sockets and have it put on the motherboard then I will go that route.