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So I was getting a bit frustrated with buying single and dual USB car chargers that were rated at 1Amp/Port and still having the EVO showing USB charging. I have five chargers now and they all show USB Charging while in spare parts. So being frustrated, I wanted to figure out and solve the problem. After a lot of surfing and digging, I came across the answer. If you check out this wikipedia link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Power
You'll find the answer in the Battery Charging Specification of the link:
"In Battery Charging Specification,[31] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
The key here is shorting the D+ and D- pins. Looking up the USB pinout can be found here:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
So, taking my cheapest charger that I bought from Walmart for $5.99 that had dual ports that said it was rated at 1A/Port, I opened it up and soldered pins 2 and 3 together for each port and put it back together.
So now with my modified cheapo USB car charger I went to the car and plugged it in and plugged in the EVO. Low and behold, it now says it's "AC Charging" and now it will pull the full 1 Amp.
So with the result to my satisfaction, I opened up my other chargers, ranging from three different Scosche chargers and one single port Belkin 1 Amp charger, soldered pins 2 and 3 together, and now all of my chargers are showing "AC Charging" using the "Spare Parts" app.
Once you take the charger apart, it's fairly obvious which pins are 2 and 3. I guess I should have taken pictures of each one as I had it apart so you could see it.
I hope this helps others with getting the full charging capacity out of their 1 Amp car chargers. Because running Google Navigation or apps such as Pandora/Subsonic will really suck down the juice.
Wow.. great info! Thanks for posting that!
What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...
RavenII said:
What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to everything that I've read on how the EVO and other phones charge, unless it can detect that the charger is a dedicated charger and not connected to a computer, the phone will only draw a max of 500 milliamps at 5 volts. Most of the time, it will only draw 400 milliamps at 5 volts.
There are a lot of threads here on trying to get chargers rated at 1 amp to actually have the EVO charge at 1 amp. The secret is that the 2 and 3 pins must be shorted before the EVO will even attempt to draw more amperage then a normal USB port.
Though you should only do this mod if the charger is truly rated at 1 amp at 5 volts.
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
The EVO will now see the charger as a dedicated charger and attempt to draw 1 amp. Though, based on what I have been reading, it wil more than likely draw 800 milliamps instead of 1000 milliamps. Same goes for USB charging at 400 milliamps instead of 500.
How did you get the belkin apart??
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
ntron1 said:
How did you get the belkin apart??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3
Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.
ChrisDos said:
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I knew I was missing something.
Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.
Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)
SteelH said:
Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JKGoodrich said:
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks all.
Now if I could find my soldering iron, I'll attempt this on my 1A wall charger from a time circa Rio Carbon
ChrisDos said:
I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, 5 minutes and worked like a champ.
Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Thanks. I'm planning a hardwired mod to make a physical mount (out of a $5 ebay belt clip that I'm going to saw the clip off of...) in the empty Nav hole on my car. Have been trying to find a cheap donar USB plug charger to wire straight into the fuse box, and this will make that search easier.
scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Andy S said:
Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to see that the modified charger is showing AC. Afraid I don't know about the car dock mode. Haven't researched that yet.
Thanks again OP. Just modified one and it worked perfectly.
ChrisDos said:
Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you understood my question...Grounding 4 (same as bridging it to 5) should kick the phone into dock mod. So if I can pull an amp and get it into dock mod in my car, it'd be perfect.
Andy S said:
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe pin 4 doesn't get used so it's the one missing on the regular USB side...Based on that it would make sense for a wire from pin 4 to not extend all the way. You might just be stuck with with opening it towards the micro usb end.
My htc wall charger shows AC charging. So does my motorola car charger. Do I need to modify anything??
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I just picked one up at walmart for $16. Its rated at 5v 2.1 amps. So it should work, but it still shows a red x on the tab when charging. I'm probably gonna take it back. Does anybody know of a car charger that plays nice with our Tabs?
Yadao said:
I just picked one up at walmart for $16. Its rated at 5v 2.1 amps. So it should work, but it still shows a red x on the tab when charging. I'm probably gonna take it back. Does anybody know of a car charger that plays nice with our Tabs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like it is not seeing some sort of required voltage or signal on one of it's pins to tell it to charge at full power. Or maybe it is charging at full power but because of this required voltage or signal the TAB doesn't show it. Someone on the Asus Transformer forum really delved into the Asus connector and found all kinds of interesting stuff like that,
Maybe I'll do some timed charging tests then.
It's probably not outputting enough power. You need 2amp charger like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-reVIV...NO4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1309665830&sr=8-3
It is a 2 amp charger.
Edit: Its this charger, just sold without the cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-PowerJolt-Charger-iPhone/dp/B003GAAQXM/ref=pd_cp_e_1
It's not the amperage - it's the pin configuration. The Samsung chargers have a different pin configuration that tells the tab to start charging. Note that the pin swap happens in the charger unit, not in the data/charging cable so it's not enough to use a stock USB charger with the cable that came with your tab.
You can get adapters off of ebay that turn a regular USB charger into a "Samsung tab charger", you'd plug the adapter into the USB charger then the cable that came with the tab into the adapter and it should start charging.
This thread has more info on the adapters:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1116496
Thanks for the info. It definitely wasn't charging. I had it plugged in for a half hour with no percentage increase. Just returned it.
I don't have the resistors to reproduce my findings but found that there is a residence of 8.28k ohms between ground and both d+ and d-. 8.43k ohms between 5v and both d+ and d-. 0.7 ohms between d+ and d-.
I expect that in these adapters that there are two resisters and a diode.
Can any one verify this?
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ericlmccormick said:
I don't have the resistors to reproduce my findings but found that there is a residence of 8.28k ohms between ground and both d+ and d-. 8.43k ohms between 5v and both d+ and d-. 0.7 ohms between d+ and d-.
I expect that in these adapters that there are two resisters and a diode.
Can any one verify this?
Sent from my GT-P7510 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Tab fast charges if you short D+ and D-, otherwise it's limited to 500mA.
I tried connecting the pins together, connecting both to ground and both to positive and none of those configurations put it into charge mode. When I test what comes out of my charger, I get 1.248 between the data pins and ground.
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ericlmccormick said:
I tried connecting the pins together, connecting both to ground and both to positive and none of those configurations put it into charge mode. When I test what comes out of my charger, I get 1.248 between the data pins and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to let the d+/d- pins float.
If you let them float, then you get the same red x. Before you said you needed to short them. What are you shorting them to?
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ericlmccormick said:
If you let them float, then you get the same red x. Before you said you needed to short them. What are you shorting them to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I thought I already tested my Tab with my adapter that seems to work for everything else. Turns out it gives me the red X too. I guess Samsung can't follow a standard (though not as bad as the Transformer's adapter/cable).
The 8.3k or so between both d+/d- and ground and d+/d- and +5V is misleading since we're seeing 1.2V at the data pins. This post implies that it's actually a 33K/10K divider from +5V to ground which makes the 1.2V make sense. I'll try this later tonight if I can find some spare USB connectors.
The 33k/10k spilt did the trick!
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See my post here.
Scosche makes Galaxy Tab specific 2.1amp car chargers with 1 and with 2 USB slots. Go here: http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/search/ and type USB in the search box on the top of the page. On the resulting page of USB devices you will find the Galaxy specific models.
They make identical models of "generic" USB car chargers which you can find cheap on eBay and just use the SAMSUNG CHARGING ADAPTER to make it work but the Galaxy Specific models are a cleaner install.
MisterEdF said:
Scosche makes Galaxy Tab specific 2.1amp car chargers with 1 and with 2 USB slots. Go here: http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/search/ and type USB in the search box on the top of the page. On the resulting page of USB devices you will find the Galaxy specific models.
They make identical models of "generic" USB car chargers which you can find cheap on eBay and just use the SAMSUNG CHARGING ADAPTER to make it work but the Galaxy Specific models are a cleaner install.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find. I saw those on Amazon, but they seemed expensive, and I couldn't find any info at the time about whether it worked on the 10.1 or just the original Tab. I like the low profile one, but it is only single port. The dual-port looks too large for my setup.
I also got 4x China chargers for the price of one of those. =/
The Scosche iPad chargers such as the reVIVE II for iPad can be modified. Mine's in the car so I can't provide the exact resistor location or pictures, however:
If you open the reVIVE II and you look at the board with the plug portion to the left and the USB jacks to the right:
The upper USB jack is the 2.1A port. You need to perform the following mods to make it charge the tab:
Take D+ and D- and short them together. Solder blob will do this.
At this point instead of having 2.0v on one pin and 2.8v on the other (Resistors used for telling Apple iDevices to charge at 1A+), you will have 2.4v on both pins.
On the upper edge of the board there will be three resistors. The rightmost one is the current limiter for the power LED. (It should have a trace going to the LED)
The next one is part of the voltage dividers for one of the USB pins. Specifically, the voltage divider that originally generated 2.8v. Remove this resistor. I believe it has "62C" printed on it. Remove it - it'll be a pain in the ass. Tiny part, lead-free solder with ridiculously high melting temp.
At this point, if you reassemble the charger, you should see around 1.2-1.24 volts on D+ and D-. Congratulations, you now have a Galaxy Tab car charger.
flarbear said:
You can get adapters off of ebay that turn a regular USB charger into a "Samsung tab charger", you'd plug the adapter into the USB charger then the cable that came with the tab into the adapter and it should start charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANKS!!! I was wondering why my 2.1A USB car charger wasn't working. Well, now I know and hopefully this adapter plug that I just ordered off of ebay will do the trick.
Hi bringing one charger around would be much convenient. Can i use ipad charger, with 2A output to charge galaxy note?
Tq.
Yes. I've charged mine with it many times.
Hey thanks...
Apple out of norms
Hi
Using a standard USB cable will get you a slow charge, even if the Ipad charger is very powerfull. This is because apple doesn't follow the rules.
Charging your Note may take 6 hours then.
To get fast charge, you need to modify your cable or charger, as stated in this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1497864&page=2
jabab said:
Hi
Using a standard USB cable will get you a slow charge, even if the Ipad charger is very powerfull. This is because apple doesn't follow the rules.
Charging your Note may take 6 hours then.
To get fast charge, you need to modify your cable or charger, as stated in this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1497864&page=2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The increased charge in this mod seems to work for charging via usb port, power from a pc. Charge from main ac lead still higher.
So does charging my Note with an ipad adapter + Note usb cable help increase charge since the ipad adapter has an 2A output??
I'll try to make it clear.
Using a common adapter or any pc USB II or ANY apple adapter will give give you a slow charge with a standard USB to micro-USB 4 wire cable.
This is simply because they can't usually deliver more than 0.5A. For apple, they have a specific standard out of the USB norm.
To go into fast charge mode, the gnote scans pin 2 and 3 of the USB link. If they are short circuited, the gnote tries to go into fast charge mode, and draws up to 1A.
The short circuit of data pins (2 and 3) is specified in the USB norm to state "this adapter can provide 1A"
Some adapters, such as the Samsung one I got with my gnote, already have these pin short circuited inside them and make your phone go into fast charge mode.
If you have an adapter able to supply 1A or more, such as your Ipad's, the simplest way to fast charge your gnote is to have a modified cable. No risk to harm your phone nor your adapter if you respect the wiring.
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I think i understand now. Thanks so much Jabab.
jabab said:
I'll try to make it clear.
Using a common adapter or any pc USB II or ANY apple adapter will give give you a slow charge with a standard USB to micro-USB 4 wire cable.
This is simply because they can't usually deliver more than 0.5A. For apple, they have a specific standard out of the USB norm.
To go into fast charge mode, the gnote scans pin 2 and 3 of the USB link. If they are short circuited, the gnote tries to go into fast charge mode, and draws up to 1A.
The short circuit of data pins (2 and 3) is specified in the USB norm to state "this adapter can provide 1A"
Some adapters, such as the Samsung one I got with my gnote, already have these pin short circuited inside them and make your phone go into fast charge mode.
If you have an adapter able to supply 1A or more, such as your Ipad's, the simplest way to fast charge your gnote is to have a modified cable. No risk to harm your phone nor your adapter if you respect the wiring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what i want to know is:
if the ipad charger is 2A, will the phone draw all that 2A or just 1A?
im asking because if it designed to work with a 1A charger - is the draw capped at 1A?
Hi
The draw of any phone is limited to its maximum power consumption ie phone consumption + battery charging.
I believe this draw is limited to 1A within the gnote.
Having a 2A charger only means it can provide up to 2A. It's the "pipe" size, in a way.
If there were a way to increase the gnote draw to more than 1A, by example in order to charge the battery faster while using the GPS, this could be :
Either telling the gnote, using a resistor on the 5th pin of the micro-USB plug.
Or using a specific app.
(or both)
I'm not aware of this possibility at the moment.
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Jabab, thanks for ur valuable expert info. I've notice that charging my gnote with the ipad charger isnt much faster. But charging iphone with ipad charger does gives a great boost. What makes it possible with iphone?
Apple uses a not so different system to tell the iphone or the Ipad that it is connected to a powerful charger: the data pins are connected to the power pins through a ladder of resistances.
I see one main advantage to this: apple could change the resistances values inside the charger to indicate to the device if it is an 1A, 2A or any other current charger.
The main drawback is that this system is compatible with nothing but... Apple devices. This why you get a slow 0.5A charge with a 2A capable Ipad charger.
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I found the original thread where I learned all this. It may be much clearer than my own explanations.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1384253
I believe though that you need a 1A (1000mA) at least charger to do the indicated mod on the charger for use with a Galaxy Note.
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Seeing as all of my old chargers are for my SGS2 and put out a measly 0.7A compared to the 2A of the note 2 charger, I was wondering if I can use a different USB cable with the note 2 charger and still get the full 2A from it?
The reason I ask is the original USB cable that comes with it doesn't seem to be well thought out and has difficulty staying in if you move the phone about while charging.
Got the same issue. Tried galaxy Nexus cable. And it barely charged several percent.
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Most cables should work. But it requires a good quality and moderately thick cable to provide close to 2A without a massive voltage drop.
You could try to shave a little of the excess plastic from the original SGN2 cable, so as to make the connector longer. My phone does not have a problem holding to the USB connector as is, but it seems quite a few other users have some trouble.
If you really need a new cable, try to avoid the cheapest ones. Also don't get one longer than what's needed.
D3_ said:
Seeing as all of my old chargers are for my SGS2 and put out a measly 0.7A compared to the 2A of the note 2 charger, I was wondering if I can use a different USB cable with the note 2 charger and still get the full 2A from it?
The reason I ask is the original USB cable that comes with it doesn't seem to be well thought out and has difficulty staying in if you move the phone about while charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a 3m long cable. Works just as the regular. This cable is about as thick as the original. I would avoid the very thin cables when using the 2Amp charger.
Just a warning... If a cable does not fit, do not make it fit. Mine did not at first. Adjust the "hooks" on the contact by pushing them in slightly. There will be less force needed when connecting and it will still sit more tightly than the original.
Just buy a USB extension cable.
I'm using the original charger with the cable from my Kindle paper white and it seems to charge just fine. What's the advantage of using thicker cables?
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---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:03 AM ----------
jujuburi said:
Just buy a USB extension cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would using an extension cable degrade the current?
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I noticed that the Note 2 is a hungry beast. Have it for two days and tried to charge it on my Note 1 craddle with the Note 1 charger. Charged for 6 or so hours but was only at 57% when I took it of. You definitely have to use the 2A charger and mind the cables!
My Note 2 came from Handtec and was in French packaging, and the Samsung 2A charger was a 2 pin version but Handtec had supplied another charger with the UK 3 pins. This works fine but is only 1A and I've been using a range of other micro USB chargers and they all seem to be ok.
prinzhernan said:
Would using an extension cable degrade the current?
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I was wondering. I will buy and use one, then give feedback.
Okay, just tried a cheap extended usb cable and initially it showed charging but within a minute it wasn't charging anymore. Enough of cheap cable, now I'm gonna search about Belkin usb extension cable.
Why the hell Sammy had to copy Apple damn it!
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jujuburi said:
Why the hell Sammy had to copy Apple damn it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think it's fair to say that, at least regarding the chargeing cable. Samsung uses a regular microUSB connector, just like all phones sold in the EU should. It's Apple that insists on proprietary connectors.
The Note II has a large capacity battery (good thing, right?) and Samsung decided to provide it with a power converter capable of chargeing the phone in a relatively short time. It requires a moderately good quality cable to allow a strong current to reach the phone within USB limits, but that's just physics. Not Samsung's fault.
(I do, however, blame sellers of very cheap cables. Buyers are the ones who suffer because the manufacturer decided to shave a cent or two from their costs.)
What I would recommend those that need a longer cable is to get an electrical extension instead.
prinzhernan said:
I'm using the original charger with the cable from my Kindle paper white and it seems to charge just fine. What's the advantage of using thicker cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Besides being physically stronger it can also have slightly thicker treads, allowing a bigger current, with less voltage drop until it reaches the phone. Orginal cable is 23AWG (power) and 30AWG (date). The thinner they get the more voltage drop, the longer they get the more voltage drop. The voltage drop is also affected by the material of the cables... The thickness of the cable may just be stronger shielding or better isolation, so look at the AWG markings and avoid too long cables.
My 3 meter, 24AWG (power) and 28AWG (data), error... sigh... AWG size is opposite towards milimeter... The lower AWG the thicker thread in the cable. The lowest AWG threads on the cable is for charging.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_drop
ElectroDroid can calculate voltage drops. I really need to little shorter cable
D3_ said:
Seeing as all of my old chargers are for my SGS2 and put out a measly 0.7A compared to the 2A of the note 2 charger, I was wondering if I can use a different USB cable with the note 2 charger and still get the full 2A from it?
The reason I ask is the original USB cable that comes with it doesn't seem to be well thought out and has difficulty staying in if you move the phone about while charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got saerm problem, the reason is that the micro usb tip ( the one you insert on the Note 2) is short. It can be easily solved by buying a different cable, or like what I did, I just filed the surrounding plastic to make the metal bit longer. It now latches perfectly with a click !!! Good luck
swejuggalo said:
Besides being physically stronger it can also have slightly thicker treads, allowing a bigger current, with less voltage drop until it reaches the phone. Orginal cable is 23AWG (data) and 30AWG (power). The thinner they get the more voltage drop, the longer they get the more voltage drop. The voltage drop is also affected by the material of the cables... The thickness of the cable may just be stronger shielding or better isolation, so look at the AWG markings and avoid too long cables.
My 3 meter, 24AWG (data) and 28AWG (power), error... sigh... AWG size is opposite towards milimeter... The lower AWG the thicker thread in the cable
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_drop
ElectroDroid can calculate voltage drops. I really need to little shorter cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I understand now. I've always wondered about this for the longest time since I started using Android devices.
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I have used both sgs2 and note 2 cables wt note2 charger both cales r propriety samsung i put my note 2 battery to 5% abd charged wt the note 2 charger
Both cables took 5 hrs to fully charge note 2
So i think if u use propriety samsung galaxy series cable it dosent matter
The i charged the phone wi sgs2 original charger
It took about 8 hrs to reach frm5% to 100%
So i think the output of the charger matters not the cable
I cant say the same about non propriety usb cables as i havent used those
I have a micromax a 7o usb cable which runs androud
I will use it wth the note 2 charger and post result
ashwaa said:
I have used both sgs2 and note 2 cables wt note2 charger both cales r propriety samsung i put my note 2 battery to 5% abd charged wt the note 2 charger
Both cables took 5 hrs to fully charge note 2
So i think if u use propriety samsung galaxy series cable it dosent matter
The i charged the phone wi sgs2 original charger
It took about 8 hrs to reach frm5% to 100%
So i think the output of the charger matters not the cable
I cant say the same about non propriety usb cables as i havent used those
I have a micromax a 7o usb cable which runs androud
I will use it wth the note 2 charger and post result
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not say there would be extreme differences, but if you want a good quality cable... It does not say what AWG the SGS2 cable has (I find no markings), but the cable is a factor, but a small one, than can be noticeable especially if you have some length on the cable. If you use 1Amp on a 1.8 m 28AWG copper cable there is almost 16% voltage drop. If you double the current you also double the voltage drop. That does not mean that the charging time will be changed much in some cases since there are other factors that affect it too (internal electronics that handles the charging, battery health, the real charge Voltage/Current at the battery leads....).
I just got a high quality cable from Manhattan Products and their website says:
http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/9204-hi-speed-usb-device-cable
28 AWG conductors
Shielded
Withstanding voltage: 300 V DC 10 ms
Insulation resistance: 5 MOhms
Contact resistance: 10 OhmsThermal plastic casing.
What's the AWG of the original cable? Is my cable's awg for the data or current?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Orginal is 23AWG power and 30AWG data. You can read it the cable actually. You even see that it has dual commons.
If it has dual sizes the bigger size is power (bigger is strangely enough a lower AWG). If it only mentioned one size then it is used both for data and power.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Today I picked up and installed two combo 120v/USB wall outlets so I can get rid of all the wall warts I currently have. The USB ports charge everything (tablet, HTC phone, Bluetooth) but the two galaxy S4's I have. Has anyone used one of the outlets before? Any ideas on why they will not charge the S4's?
The Specs for the USB side of the outlet is.
Switching Frequency Typical 140 kHz
Output Voltage Nominal 5V (+/- 10%)
Protection Current Limiting and Thermal Shutdown Protection
Output Current Constant Current Maximum 2.1A
The outlet is a Commercial Spec Grade Combination USB Charger made by Cooper Industries
Part number is TR7745 if anyone wants to look it up for any reason.
Thank you in advance for your help.
change usb cables
Try changing to a different USB cable. It's weird how often this is the problem.
What does it do when you plug it in? Does it do anything at all? Does it even act like it's connected? Does it TRY and charge but just can't keep up? I have ones by Leviton that work fine with my S4 and my fiancees iPhone/iPad.
EDIT: I just noticed if you look at the reviews on Amazon HERE it seems multiple people have had problems with the S4 and this model. One thing I noticed with most that I looked at before buying mine was that the listed current was shared between the ports, whereas the Leviton version has one port that's 2.1 amps and one that's 1 amp independent of each other. This one might be 2.1 amps shared, so anything else plugged in might not work out.
02CWRX said:
What does it do when you plug it in? Does it do anything at all? Does it even act like it's connected? Does it TRY and charge but just can't keep up? I have ones by Leviton that work fine with my S4 and my fiancees iPhone/iPad.
EDIT: I just noticed if you look at the reviews on Amazon HERE it seems multiple people have had problems with the S4 and this model. One thing I noticed with most that I looked at before buying mine was that the listed current was shared between the ports, whereas the Leviton version has one port that's 2.1 amps and one that's 1 amp independent of each other. This one might be 2.1 amps shared, so anything else plugged in might not work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm having the same problem. It's listed as "dual 2.1A". The first second I plug it in it flashes the charging indicator, then it goes off. No charging happening whatsoever.
farkmeil said:
I'm having the same problem. It's listed as "dual 2.1A". The first second I plug it in it flashes the charging indicator, then it goes off. No charging happening whatsoever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever have any luck with the S4 problem? Does it make a difference which side you plug the USB cable into?
re: charger
olneybrandon said:
Today I picked up and installed two combo 120v/USB wall outlets so I can get rid of all the wall warts I currently have. The USB ports charge everything (tablet, HTC phone, Bluetooth) but the two galaxy S4's I have. Has anyone used one of the outlets before? Any ideas on why they will not charge the S4's?
The Specs for the USB side of the outlet is.
Switching Frequency Typical 140 kHz
Output Voltage Nominal 5V (+/- 10%)
Protection Current Limiting and Thermal Shutdown Protection
Output Current Constant Current Maximum 2.1A
The outlet is a Commercial Spec Grade Combination USB Charger made by Cooper Industries
Part number is TR7745 if anyone wants to look it up for any reason.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try using a different usb cable from phone to charger,
be sure both ends have a snug fit and it should work.
I have one which is similar to yours.
Since it puts out 2.1ma just like the stock S4 wall charger
it should charge just as fast.
Good luck!
bitbang3r said:
Did you ever have any luck with the S4 problem? Does it make a difference which side you plug the USB cable into?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately no. I didn't mention before that I'm an EE, however, none of the troubleshooting steps I could think of had any effect. :crying:
Can use A Cooper USB Electric Outlet with S3 and S4
I saw this thread while trying to solve this very issue. I have the Cooper USB outlet and installed it thinking it would charge my phone and my wifes. It would charge her S3, but not my S3. She has the LTE version (SGH-I747) and I have the HSPA version (GT-I9300). Well I thought it would not charge my S3. After playing with it for a few minutes, I could get the charge light on the outlet to blink. No charging was happening as the charge light on the outlet would just blink and then stay off. On my wifes S3 I could plug it in it would start charging instantly.
After playing with my S3 and the cord (The same cord used for my wifes S3 as I had already tried numerous cords) I found I could slowly insert the micro usb end into my S3 and it would start charging. It was tricky, but after 30 minutes of wasted time, I got it to charge. I would have to ever so slowly plug it in, either at a sideways angle or at a slightly elevated angle. This was regardless of the usb cord used.
However my S3 died and I got an S4. Naturally my S4 would not charge just by plugging it in, but I tried the "slow insert" method, on both the micro USB side and the outlet side and both worked.
I am thinking there is some kind of tolerance issue surrounding the electrical connections. Sliding the USB connector in slowly at the outlet side, I beleive, would ground the connection first and then allow for charging, but this is where my knowledge of electricity starts to bad. That said it is possible to use the charge, but it is not plug and play.
I just picked up a couple of these for the kitchen to alleviate the eyesore of the wall warts and I can also confirm it charges everything I have thrown at it except my S4 (jfltezvw) =( I quickly found this post after googling it. I am currently doing some work on the phone now but I will attempt the super technical "plug it in slowly" later and see if it works =)
Has anyone had any luck with other brands? I find this REALLY odd.
just installed this same outlet, and sure enough it charges everything except the S4..."slow insert" doesn't seem to work...does anybody know of any other solutions besides not using it?
wall charger option
I also have one of these outlet/usb from cooper that will not work with my s4.
Has anyone tried to use a DUAL POWER micro USB cord (like the ones that comes with the portable hard drives) to see if that would do the trick?
unfortunately, I do not have one of these cables, or I would try it myself.
Here's what I am thinking is happening...
The S4 is equipped with a smart charger that can trickle charge after a complete charge cycle.
When first connected, the s4 starts a trickle charge while it tests the battery for the charge cycle.
The cooper is equipped with a current limiter that shares power between the two outlets.
The cooper unit sees the trickle charge, and switches to a lower current setting for the slot with the s4 plugged in. reserving current for the empty outlet.
The s4 then tries to engage a fast charge, but cant due to the lack of current, and shuts down the charge circuit.
If a dual usb cord to micro usb cable was used, both outlets would be tied to the s4, and full power would be available to the s4 at all times.
Of course, without a cable myself, this is almost all conjecture on my part, and I could be just blowing smoke up my own arse, huh?
LoVoltage
EDIT: Of course, remember that the cable you use has to have the D+ jumper to signify the 2.1 amp availability. If you don't, the cable won't work. (Most dual port usb cables have this jumper already. so does the OEM samsung cable)
Just installed one of these tonight. Specifically the Cooper TR7745/TR8245 15A/125V
I can charge my Note 2 (SGH-I317), Nexus 7 wifi, but not an Samsung Galaxy S4 (SGH-I337). Kinda weird.