I have a couple of SGS2 phones that after a bit of trial and testing I've bought Case Mate Tough cases for.
I want to put a small coloured dot on the Silicon inner casing, preferably fluorescent and luminous as I would like to see the coloured dot in no/low light conditions.
I don't want to paint the whole case or anything like that.
Can anyone suggest a suitable fluorescent paint or marker that they have had personal experience with?
Thanks in advance.
Based on personal experience I would suggest you drop the paint idea and go for a tritium vial instead. Those are tiny vials of tritium, a self luminous radio active (but not harmful) material that is used in high end watches etc. Think of it as always on glow-in-the-dark. Been a while since I ordered any myself but I used this guy when I did: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?242634-B-rt-s-Tritium-Thread-Part-Deux
You also need some sort of transparent proxy or similar to glue it in place. But once you do, you have something that's visible in the dark, not just for 30 seconds after the light goes out
Related
So... I've purchased a Vodafone v1640 from eBay a while back.. and I'm sick of the silver housing! I'd rather have a white or black housing, so I plan on opening the sucker up to paint it! I'm pretty sure I have no warrenty anyway, as I purchased from eBay and am not on a Vodafone plan (Cingular here in the USA)...
My question is... what's the best type of paint to do this with? Any special sort of paint?
Or, I guess, if there's anywhere I could buy different housings for it, pre-painted.. that'd work too.
Any input at ALL would be greatly appreciated! ;D
I want some infos too on this case for a new housing because black housing for Universal looks the best.
From my experience of disassembling the HTC Charmer, I think the HTC stuff are kinda tightly fitted, it might not be that easy to have it painted. I mean, I'm not sure how good you are at painting, but for the paint job I did (on other stuff, toys, cars, shelves, not the phone, yet), I usually end up with a thick (relatively) layer of paint on it, which I think may cause problem when you try to assemble the phone up again.
So, my advise, make sure you can really do a skin tight paint job before you try it on the phone, as it seems that it is really difficult to get a spare casing for HTC stuff.
BTW, you may want to look at some of the web site for PC modding, where they tend to mod their keyboard and mouse, giving them new paint job, probably such forums will have experts on the paint that you should be using.
you might have to experiment a bit if you haven't painted before...
The most impoportant thing is to find a dry place with no humidity.
You can get the retouching spray for cars called deco paint. It will work well.
p.s. IMO black housing will look good if you have a black keyboard.
Hmm black keyboard...
very good point.
i once painted my dreamcast controller black 8)
just used a normal spray can for it (didn´t have an airbrush at that time yet)
works very easy:
- open it up and remove all things you dont want to spray
- clean everything very good (with terpentine/gasoline/ammonia for example)
- let it dry
- spray it (very thin, because you don´t want to make drops of paint on it) from about 15-20cm away (any closer and it will be more difficult to avoid paintdrops and keeping the paint thin
- let it dry in a clean enviroment
after a few months of usage the paint will shine on spots where you hold it much...
so you might want to spray some colourless shine stuff (sorry: don´t know the name for it in english, it is ´lak´ in dutch) on it after the paint is drie to have the color remain the same way
or you could just touch it everywhere so the shine is everywhere :wink:
heh, it's close in english, it's pronounced 'lak-ker', spelt lacquer
Anyone have any luck with this repainting the case idea? Any pictures?
i did my old mpx 220 before black cases were out, i used a special, plastics spraypaint from krylon. flat black ,and clear topcoat. i dont have the pictures anymore but it was nice. just take your time read up on painting . thin light coats and follow the directions on the can.
Hi all, i've painted my BlueAngel yesterday and i want to show you the results...
Many thanks to all of those who wrote many many tutorials about disassembling and painting the BA.
Here are the photos!
Any comment about this job would be very appreciated
SWEEeet! - Noobies this is a BA!!
SWEEeeT !
looks very good, nice photo's too, (I'm going to REDO my front now - Thanks) (maybe)
what rom/skins/manila are you showing us, though!
(I'm struggling with white enamel ( radiator paint ) or met med blue, on alu front/frame) whilst awaiting new digi
(pimp post?)
DroidDotBot said:
SWEEeeT !
looks very good, nice photo's too, (I'm going to REDO my front now - Thanks) (maybe)
what rom/skins/manila are you showing us, though!
(I'm struggling with white enamel ( radiator paint ) or met med blue, on alu front/frame) whilst awaiting new digi
(pimp post?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using xplode's wm 6.5 R6, with titanium (Not manila, even if it's nice), and default skin. Maybe i will try manila, to see if it fits with the new paint.
I decided to use plastic primer and brilliant black spray for plastics. the secret is to use "water grain paper" very softly all over the surface to paint on.
White and blue? Very nice colors, but actually all of the best phones are BLACK, and that's why I chose that color: to make it look like a 400$ touch HD !
Like I said . . This is a BlueAngel
My metallic Medeterrain Blue does'nt / Wont show
Laquor coat / daylight may do, <still no digi >
Windows flag on face, still 50/50%, white enamel, (hard wearing, when dry {looking like 6months time}), going to a Dark Blue, (Maybe?)
Your Black BA looks, <Realy foolcin good, like a 300/500 money phone>, "with Titanium", ARRrrgghh(homer), sounds "Tasty, yet temptingly, expensive. !"
iCube? TouchFlo ? - Let us "Know &/ See" - "BeeHive / Titanium" on "PH20B"
(if you change your battery, are you as snookered as me?) -
nice job mate
Well done!
I love it!
How have you created that uneven surface?
Can't you draw the symbols like Mail,ok,IE,... on top of their buttons?
raizaM said:
Can't you draw the symbols like Mail,ok,IE,... on top of their buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there 8 (at least) buttons, that are "SoftKeys", loosing the logo's are a bonus!! (everything is on homepage)
Received the touch screen today(it's about 1.1mm thick, made from 2 sheets of glass!!!!!, and the cable maybe tricky ), and will await daylight for photo shoot (during soldering)
edit in 24
Hmm... after some time ... This is the result:
Did this happen to anyone? Can I avoid this peeling? It only passes on the front face (Metal), and the back is perfectly conserved...
I sanded, given primer... This is so frustrating
Did you ROUGH sand it and apply PRIMERS first ?
Rough surface is for primer to bond better and primer is for SPRAY PAINT TO BOND better.
I see that your surface of BA is quite smooth which means u did not sand it first.
The original BA face plate has already got a coating of paint, that coating of paint is stain resistance which means it wont stain paint too..
Majes said:
Hmm... after some time ... This is the result:
On alloy you need an eching primer ( DTM Epoxy Prime/Seal) for alloy to stop it Oxidizing and gives you a good bond, apply directly on to the alloy and not over paintwork,
for Plastic you can all so use the same primer sealer, its what we use in the motor trade. ps you can get this in many colours to suite and for a better final paint finish Lacquer it.
A better method for the alloy parts would be to get it Anodized to the colour you want or chromed plated.
an Airbrush for small parts will give you a far better finished result than using tin spray can paint and to finish off you can use a clear protector ricochet density film on the parts that get daily contact wear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great job!
I was thinking( and when I find some time) to make an new cover all together.
Something as low and flat as the screen it self.
I'll come back on that later..
But I have an good tip for you all.
If you close off the gaps behind the speaker(remove cover), fill up with some foam (black kind)you will improve the sound quality considerable.
Sound wil be louder, and will have more Bass.
About 20% more sound power.
A lot of the sound output goes to wast through the gaps in the back.
Check it out.
ebsbow said:
Great job!
I was thinking( and when I find some time) to make an new cover all together.
Something as low and flat as the screen it self.
I'll come back on that later..
But I have an good tip for you all.
If you close off the gaps behind the speaker(remove cover), fill up with some foam (black kind)you will improve the sound quality considerable.
Sound wil be louder, and will have more Bass.
About 20% more sound power.
A lot of the sound output goes to wast through the gaps in the back.
Check it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was thinking of that too...
I finally received my Cyclops Case after waiting weeks to get it! I have found a "bug" in the case, and I have diagnosed the problem even. Everyone who has this case will notice a sort of blue tint when using the FLASH when taking a picture. I found out why, when the flash goes off, the plastic covering the camera lens actually channels the light from the flash through it, this can be seen with the naked eye, it illuminates the PET material at the right time right when the camera takes the photo, thus a blue tint. It is basically as if a blue filter has been placed over the camera lens. I think this could be fixxed by placing a small piece of opaque plastic between the 2 pieces of PET, which I believe are currently one solid piece! Just thought id share with you guys, love the case, now I feel my phone is protected!
Post this in the cyclops thread too
So if you take a picture without flash this does not happen? I don't have my case yet, but should be here soon.
scoobdude said:
So if you take a picture without flash this does not happen? I don't have my case yet, but should be here soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct. Pictures taken without the flash look normal.
A week ago I had the same idea, to block the light of the flash from illuminating the plastic. I cut a narrow strip out of the plastic, separating it into two sections. I then cut a piece off a rubber band and placed it into the gap.
Unfortunately, while I did notice some improvement, the blue tint still persists. Adjusting some camera settings also helped a lot. But so far I haven't eliminated it completely.
I have some more testing to do, but if that fails I will try removing the section of plastic over the flash.
-SLS-
White Trident
I just got the white trident and found out that it fits so tight that the proximity sensor freezes. When you make a phone call, the screen goes into sleep mode and the only way to hang up the phone is to remove the case so the screen will wake up. Otterbox has several cases out for the evo now. I am going to try one of those
kevinoliva113 said:
I just got the white trident and found out that it fits so tight that the proximity sensor freezes. When you make a phone call, the screen goes into sleep mode and the only way to hang up the phone is to remove the case so the screen will wake up. Otterbox has several cases out for the evo now. I am going to try one of those
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
take a black sharpie and color the inside of the case around the proximity sensor. problem solved
Blitzpwnage said:
I finally received my Cyclops Case after waiting weeks to get it! I have found a "bug" in the case, and I have diagnosed the problem even. Everyone who has this case will notice a sort of blue tint when using the FLASH when taking a picture. I found out why, when the flash goes off, the plastic covering the camera lens actually channels the light from the flash through it, this can be seen with the naked eye, it illuminates the PET material at the right time right when the camera takes the photo, thus a blue tint. It is basically as if a blue filter has been placed over the camera lens. I think this could be fixxed by placing a small piece of opaque plastic between the 2 pieces of PET, which I believe are currently one solid piece! Just thought id share with you guys, love the case, now I feel my phone is protected!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
take a small drill bit the size of the LED holes and drill through the PET. problem solved. no more blue/purple tint. wait! make sure the phone is out of the case first. or you can simply remove the PET over the LEDs with a small razor blade color the inside of the case with a black sharpie. problem solved.
The Real Fix for Trident Case Blue Tint Issue - WINNING!
The window that goes over the flash has two protective coverings on it.
Here is what causes the blue tint:
1) Take off covering by pulling on the tab.
2) Install on back of case.
To solve the problem add this step:
3) After the window is placed correctly on the back of the case, remove the second piece of protective film (on the inside of the window). This film is blue, probably so that we see it.
Yeah, the Trident Case instructions are lacking, but my Netgear router's instructions told me to go to http://www.routerlogin.net/ to access the router's settings Web-app. HELLO! NO DNS UNTIL THE ROUTER IS ALREADY SETUP.
maybe their router redirects that address to a local ip? still, weird.
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Hello!
I was just wondering if the owners of the white version of the Motorola Defy
could tell me if they have had any problems with the white part being prone to dirt?
Or is it still looking as new? Is there any easy way to clean it?
I picked up my old white sony PSP today and noticed that the back part (which is not glossy) had some slight yellowish color to it even though I havent used it very often. I figured a white defy might get "dirty" alot easier since I'd pick it up alot more often than a PSP.
Also, is the white part made of some kind of rubber material or is it all hard plastic like the psp?
In short, is this something to worry about? Did anyone here take this into consideration when choosing between a black vs a white one?
I would think that at least some of you chose this one since you perform some kind of "dirty work" (you know, like construction of something)?
Kind of a funny color choice by Motorola then, for a "rugged" device I mean...
I didn't notice any yellowish color on my 6 months old Defy, I think this phone is too new for that kind of dirt. Cleaning is no problem: just take it into the bath. Keep in mind, that the side border around the screen is kind of rubbered on the white model, meanwhile the black ones have some shiny coating, which isn't so resistant. I prefer the white one, looks way better.
Muznyu said:
I didn't notice any yellowish color on my 6 months old Defy, I think this phone is too new for that kind of dirt. Cleaning is no problem: just take it into the bath. Keep in mind, that the side border around the screen is kind of rubbered on the white model, meanwhile the black ones have some shiny coating, which isn't so resistant. I prefer the white one, looks way better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
totally agree. White is simple cool I mean there is not a single mark of dirt on after 4 months of serious rough use., and it doesnt have any shiny part excep the display. So the grip in hand is quite good. and i have to admit i am a man of black and white(not only for desy, i love that color combination on anything)!
Guide on changing your watch band color
Quick run through of how to change the colour of your watch band that came with the watch.
I love the watch so far, but didn't think the Stone went so well with a silver watchface. This video shows you how to prepare the leather and make it ready to be stained.
Firstly I used a solvant or stripper to help remove the gloss on the band which will stop the dye from staying there. Some people used Sandpaper.
I used three layers of leather dye, with each layer making it be darker. Each layer I waited about 15 minutes, and it helps if you do it in sunlight to have a good idea of what the colour is - it's initially darker and then dries to be lighter.
Misc tips:
The back being fragile plastic with people worrying about putting in big bands or just doing anything with them, I was worried about taking it out using a flathead screwdriver to push the stripe bar down to take it apart.
I found that if you push from the top, you have less chance of pushing up and putting too much pressure to that area. Tried to take a photo to make it more obvious at the end of the video.
Any questions fire way It's a nice way to personalize your watch.