Related
Hey Guys....thanks in advance for any replies...
Can anyone give me some tips on how to take decent pictures with the Evo? In most cases I am taking pictures in dimly lit restaurants or bars (no comments please, heh heh) and most of the time the pictures are completely washed out due to the flash coming on and lighting up the subjects faces like a Christmas tree.
Does anyone know if there are settings, other software or any other tips that can be used to help me take better pictures??
Thank you!
From the camera app,there is a tab on the left side in landscape mode. If you slide it open, choose settings, then brightness a slider will open. I've found that in dim to dark conditions, best results with flash on are with the brightness set to around -2.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Theres an old photographer's trick, not the most elegant of solutions but putting a piece of scotch tape over the flash will help diffuse the light and also get rid of the harsh shadows from the flash.
bluehaze said:
Theres an old photographer's trick, not the most elegant of solutions but putting a piece of scotch tape over the flash will help diffuse the light and also get rid of the harsh shadows from the flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly this has started to cross my mind too. The two flashes 'sounds' like a good idea...but they are WAY TO HOT for a close up (within 6 feet or so). Now they did actually work pretty well at dusk for a test shot about 12 feet away. (So that should tell you they are too bright for close work)
I am thinking of maybe taping just one and testing.
But you could use scotch tape as posted, because the frosted look of the tape would help diffuse the light. (Remembering it will diminish ability to flash far away.)
Have to start treating this more like cameras now...they are going to require more than point and forget.
Idea
I asked the same question a few weeks ago - why doens't the EVO do light metering.
One though would be to use a LED application to turn on the LED light - maybe on low, and don't use the flash on the camera application? I know a pain to do (and a loss of coolness points) but might work?
if you really want to be photo savvy go to a photo store and get a sheet of diffusion gel, and just place a small cut out in between the flashes and the battery cover. also always shoot as low as you can go with the ISO, the problem with the EVO camera is that when in low light situations it switches to a high ISO, but it doesn't factor in the fact that the flash is going to go off, so when the flash goes off, the high ISO coupled with the strong flash means super overexposed picture. so either leave the camera at iso 100 or 200 and try shooting that way or try the diffusion i stated earlier.
the camera is just very badly coded. for instance what the camera should be doing is lighting the flash to focus, read exposure and compensate, then take the picture with the proper level flash. as it is now all it does is try to focus completely in the dark, then just flash the flash at full power while its taking the picture. it really is a terribly coded camera.
its like the people over at HTC basically just added the lcd's just to add them, i mean we already know that the LCD can be used at various levels of intensity...its a damn shame...
Are there no apps out that improve the cameras function? i figured there would be.
Hi everyone, just a few minutes ago i was looking for a completely black wallpaper and it came to my mind to just put my finger over the camera and take a pic, as soon as i put my finger over the lens i saw a few red and blue spots on the screen...i then put it over a black cloth and i could still see the red and blue dots(look like dead pixels but on the sensor?) its best visible when camera is set to 8mp. I am just wondering if this is normal or if i have a faulty camera..the dots dissapear as soon as there is some light i will post a pic in a sec. Please can anyone test it out by turning on the cam set to 8mp and put your finger over the lens so its completely dark wait a bit ( 30-40sec) and look at the screen.
Edit: Also when you put the exposure to max you can see it even better.
Did a little research and it is called a hot pixels.
Hi,
At 1st excuse my english please!
You dont need to be afraid of this, this is totaly normal an youre camera is ok!
The sensor generate colors from RGB (red, green and blue) and what you see there is no more then the try of the sensor to put colors in the dark!
Greetings
Alef
Yes but they are on the same spot every time and they are flickering, the only way you can notice it is in a dark room and when you put somthing over the lens so its completely dark then i get flickering hot pixels on the same spots. Please can anyone else try this and let me know if you see it on the display/viewfinder.
A lot of sensors can suffer from that, that's why normal cameras offer pixel mapping to disable hot pixels. Unless you see those spots show up in final images I would say don't worry about.
It does show on the final picture. That is why im asking people to check if they have same thing.. if every one has it i wouldnt worry about it but if not i will go exchange it while i can. Its bright flickering white, red and blue dots. Looks exactly like a stuck pixel and not the rgb noise ones that are visible on the whole screen.
Sent from my LT15a using XDA App
Hi,
I found an explanation for this:
The CCD-Sensor interprets residual voltage (<----Hope the right word! ) as brightness information what results in those colored spots!
As I said, its totaly normal!
Greetings
Alef
If you take a picture in a dark room, the camera will boost the gain in order to try to take a decent picture. It will boost the gain until it sees enough content in the image. The darker the room, the more the gain will be boosted.
By covering the lens youve removed all of the light. The camera is therefore boosting the gain as much as it can until it's picking up what is effectively noise in a few of the pixels (some will always be more noisy than others). This wont have any noticable effect on a picture taken at normal light levels.
Thank you everyone for the explanation
Sent from my LT15a using XDA App
I actually noticed this, too. I thought I had a dead/hot pixel on the screen, but it only appears when it's on viewfinder mode. It doesn't really appear in the image taken itself (or maybe I just don't notice) so I never really minded it after the initial discovery. Glad to know this is just normal
I'm noticing this too.
except differently, i'm not seeing individual spots, i'm seeing hair-like artifacts.
Pictures:
any suggestions?
Hmm that looks really bad.. did you solve it?
You will have to send the phone where you bought, I think it's a manufacturer's faulty
Something that's been annoying the crap out of me.
I know that the T-Mobile G2/Desire Z only has a 5 Megapixel camera, but the quality of the pictures I'm taking is absolutely atrocious.
What can I do to keep my pictures from looking extremely blurry? I noticed when I try to take a picture with the camera, if I hold the primary button down for a few seconds, it clears up, but as soon as I let go of the button the camera loses focuses and picture ends up getting blurred. Am I simply doing it wrong or is there some sort of trick to this in the camera settings?
I notice the camera likes to take extremely high resolution low quality pictures, is there a way to configure the camera to instead take low resolution higher quality ones instead? I don't need my pictures to be more than 1920 x 1080 but it looks like it tries to do that all the time.
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try holding the camera button down halfway for it to focus, then push it down the rest of the way to take a picture, that might help.
Otherwise I'm not sure of any settings you could change, maybe see if there's any 3d party apps that'll work good?
-Nipqer
or you can download 3rd party apps like camera360, WHICH I HIGHLY recommend.
I've tested ALL of the camera apps and I am quite fond of Camera360, partly because it takes the clearest pictures in my opinion.
i also have problems with pic quality with this phone. lots of grain...
I've found that using touch-to-focus and the software shutter button gives me the best pictures. Depending on where in the frame you pick your focus lighting can change dramatically. Try pointing at the horizon and shift focus from the sky to the ground - huge difference!
I always take pictures with maximum resolution and mostly just pass on a snapshot if it's not daylight.
camera360
the best camera app
Keirnoth said:
Something that's been annoying the crap out of me.
I know that the T-Mobile G2/Desire Z only has a 5 Megapixel camera, but the quality of the pictures I'm taking is absolutely atrocious.
What can I do to keep my pictures from looking extremely blurry? I noticed when I try to take a picture with the camera, if I hold the primary button down for a few seconds, it clears up, but as soon as I let go of the button the camera loses focuses and picture ends up getting blurred. Am I simply doing it wrong or is there some sort of trick to this in the camera settings?
I notice the camera likes to take extremely high resolution low quality pictures, is there a way to configure the camera to instead take low resolution higher quality ones instead? I don't need my pictures to be more than 1920 x 1080 but it looks like it tries to do that all the time.
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The default camera app takes the shot at the last moment until you hear the click sound.
Whenever you are taking the picture just let the camera look at it and it will automatically focus, adjust exposure, etc. after that when you click the button on screen it optimizes the settings and only at the last moment it takes the picture.
It you'll change the camera position or the object moves, then the picture will appear blurry. So, the trick is to keep your hand steady and the object should also be steady and keep your hand at one position while clicking photograph until the camera is ready to take another photograph.
Another trick is to install HTC Amaze camera app for Vision available on xda and flash it.
While taking the photograph, change its mode to action, now it will take the best shot out of all possible positions of the object but it won't implement any exposure correction or face detection so efficiently.
Ok, I'm about to break out a bit of Photography 101 up in here. I'm sure a lot of you know some or all of this stuff, but I'm going to try not to assume anything and pretend I'm trying to teach a caveman from 10,000 BC how to take good pictures. I'll try not to write a book, but no promises... but since this is the internet and people have short attention spans, I'll also do a TL;DR summary at the end for the ADD people. ;p
---------------------------------------------------------------
Note: I'm going to start by talking generally, and then I'll try to get a bit more specific about cell phone cameras, the G2/DZ camera, a specific app, and techniques you can use to create optimal pictures. So, the beginning will start out sounding obvious to most of you, but will gradually get more into some (hopefully) useful specifics.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Alright, photography is all about capturing light. This might sound obvious, but it's useful to keep in mind when you're trying to think like a camera, so you will be able to know what it wants in different situations. Cameras want light - lots and lots of light. You can almost never have too much light. The less you have to depend on the wimpy and crappy flash, the better your pictures will look. The BEST pictures won't need to use flash at all. So IF you can, get as much light as possible on whatever you're taking a picture of. You often can't control any lighting, but what you can do is maximize what lighting there already is. This means if you're shooting outside in the sun, you want to try to have the sun shining on whatever you take a picture of. But you want the sun behind you, and shining on your subject. If the sun is behind your subject and shining towards you, you'll end up with with plenty of light, but your subject will look like a silhouette. It's the same if you're shooting inside or even outside in relative darkness - you want as much light as possible shining on your subject, but as little light as possible shining *directly* into the camera. So try not to take pictures of people or things that have lights or bright things behind them - if possible, you want those things behind you and shining/reflecting onto the subject. So, when you're inside, turn on all the lights you can, as long as they're not behind the subject or shining directly into the camera.
The way a camera makes sure it gets as much light as it needs is by adjusting how long the shutter (ok, CMOS sensor) stays open. When there's plenty of light the shutter will open and close really fast - this is generally good, and this is what you want to shoot for. When there's not a lot of light, the shutter will need to stay open for longer - this is generally bad, and this is what you want to avoid. The main reason you want to avoid this is that it's impossible to hold your cell phone completely steady in your hands, and the longer the shutter needs to stay open, the more blurry the picture will be from the motion of your hands and the subject, and the more "noise" artifacts will show up in the image because of the nature of digital image sensors. LIGHT, LIGHT and more LIGHT is the key to good pics. Light is your friend, so learn how to work with it.
But you can't always control light, so what else can you do? The answer is to practice ways to hold your phone as steady as possible when you're taking a pic. First, always hold your phone with two hands, particularly in lower light situations. Also, you can brace your arms by pressing your elbows up against your body. If possible, brace your body by standing against or leaning on a wall, or sitting down. In situations where you can, rest the phone itself or at least your hands/arm/elbows on a solid surface like a table or whatever. After maximizing the lighting, anything you can do to hold the phone steady will have the second biggest impact in the quality of your pics.
This brings me to my app recommendation, which is called Camera Magic. I saw that two people previously recommended Camera 360 - I haven't tried it because some of the reviews and the permissions it requires scare me. A camera app needs access to personal log data? No thank you. But for all I know, it could be a real kickass and legit app, and I'm missing out... Anyway, among other things I like about Camera Magic is that it has a "Timer" and "Burst" mode. The timer mode is the key here. Using the timer will allow you to set the phone on a table or whatever and have it take a pic by itself, without having your shaky hands mucking up the image quality for pictures you want to come out extra good. For group shots, or self-pics, you can also set the timer so that you can strike a pose and get yourself in that higher quality image you'll get. And here's the really neat trick specific to our G2/DZ's that might make reading all this worth it - our phones have a built in tripod! Sort of... If you halfway open the keyboard, so that the screen and the keyboard halves are at the points farthest apart from each other, you can set the phone on a table and it will stand up on it's own!! Now be careful, because I'm not responsible for any cracked or scratched screens if your phone falls over. But I doubt that would happen even if it fell over, because it would fall flat and should be ok. Just don't do this in a precarious situation with your phone on a ledge or something it could fall off of.
Ok, I need to wrap this up for now, but here's a quick note about auto-focus. You don't usually need it. Most of the time it will just slow you down if you need to take a quick snapshot. The only time auto-focus helps is when you are taking a picture of something *closer* than 4 feet away. If you turn off auto-focus, everything farther than 4 feet away will always be in focus anyway, and you'll be able to take pictures a bit faster.
Ok, one last note about using zoom. You don't need it either. It's not a real zoom, it's just digital zoom, which just leads to lower quality images. Just take the picture (following all above guidelines) without zoom and your subject centered in the frame. You can always do any cropping or digital zooming later in Gallery, QuickPic, or even better Photoshop or whatever image editor you use, if necessary. That way, you'll have more time and control to get it framed just right.
--------------------------
TL;DR for those with ADD:
- LIGHT - You want as much light as possible ON your subject, but NOT behind your subject or directly into the camera.
- FLASH - Try not to depend on it. The best pics won't need to use flash at all, because you already have plenty of light.
- STEADY - Hold the phone steady with two hands. This is extra important in lower-light situations. Brace your hands/arms/elbows against something like a wall or table, or sit down, or if you can't and there's nothing to brace against, then press your elbows up against your chest/body and try to hold as still as possible. Use the app called Camera Magic so you can take advantage of the Timer function, among other features. Also see the G2/DZ-specific "tripod" trick (bolded) above, so you can take a completely steady pic.
- AUTO-FOCUS - You don't usually need it, it's only good for taking pictures of things closer than 4 feet away, otherwise it just slows you down when you want to take a quick picture. With auto-focus off, everything farther than 4 feet away will be in focus anyway.
- ZOOM - Don't use it, it will lower quality since it's not a real zoom, and you can always crop/zoom later with software, when you'll have more time/control.
I hope this helps some of you take some better pics!
(Edit: Hmmm, I guess bold doesn't work... maybe just a new user thing?)
Try a Sense 3.0 or 3.5 rom, they tend to produce the best quality photos from their camera app.
CM7 camera picture quality is terrible. I dont know if it has been fixed but I remember reading somewhere its caused by CM7 compressing the pictures.
Apologies in advance for bringing back old posts, but I wanted to followup on this post just to see if more people have any other ideas.
Thank you to all of you for your assistance. Not sure what software touch focus was, but what I did was take some of the guidelines from voltaic's posts and also switch over to Camera360. I took some tests shots with it and they seem to be pretty decent. Loads of image altering features similar to its iOS competitor. I just needed basic picture taking and from a few test shots, they seem to be a bit clearer. It also allows me to lower the image resolution so instead of taking giant grainy shots I can take smaller clearer looking shots.
I suck at using the default Camera app. The only thing I know how to do is adjust the Flash, and zoom that are on the right side when you take a photo (horizontal orientation).
Not sure if changing the Brightness/Contrast/Saturation/Sharpness, White Balance, and Focus mode does any good. I see Continuous, Auto, Infinity, and Touch. I don't mind having to press an extra button if it will help stop these grainy looking pictures - would switching it to Touch help a bit?
I just made a long post of tips on another thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1478405
Touch focus lets you tap on the screen to focus a particular part of the screen; whereas default is center focused, with maybe face detection (don't know if 360 has face detection).
Grain or nose is a function of high ISO. Lowering the ISO will reduce the grain, but may result in not enough light for a decent shot (will be underexposed or too dark). Increase the light if possible, so you can lower the ISO. Sometimes just changing the angle of the camera, your position, or simply turning on more lights in the room can make a huge difference. Manually setting the ISO and white balance might help a bit. But the fact of the matter, is that if there isn't enough light, you are going to need high ISO to get a decent shot.
Special effects can be fun. But most (or all) of these effects can be applied to a photo after the fact (Picsay Pro and Vignette are my favorite phone apps for simple photo edits). On the other hand, if you take a picture with the effect, it can't be undone afterwards. OF course, there may be times when you don't care for the "raw" photo (
Manipulating brightness is useful if the pic looks too dark or light. For instance, the picture looks much lighter than what your eyes see (outdoor night photos is a good example). But those settings (brightness, contrast, saturation) usually won't change graininess or the overall quality of the picture (how its captured). Again, these are all things that can be fixed after the fact. However, I've found setting white balance manually to be very helpful. Setting white balance manually (while it takes time to do so for each different environment) gives much better results than Auto. Auto takes extra time to evaluate the light conditions when you hit the shutter, and sometimes does so incorrectly. Technically, white balance can be fixed after the fact. But the fact Auto white balance delays the capturing of the photo, means it can often cause a blurry picture.
Long story short, learning the basics of how a camera works, and simple camera techniques (angle and position) have much more influence on photo quality than messing with different apps or effects. Aside from settings that fundamentally change how the photo is captured (ISO, focus, white balance), the rest is just frosting on the cake. And you can't polish a turd.
I'd noticed battery drain with Camera360, even if I've cut the localisation.
Anyone else?
Try using HDR Camera+ it's been HIGHLY recommended by PocketNow.com to get the best quality pictures out of your android phone.
Available in the android market.
Ok, let me start out by saying I know very very little about photography. I pretty much just leave it on Auto. I mean, I know how to switch between different presets (Auto, Portrait, Night, HDR, etc.) and that you can tap to focus there.... that's about it. I don't know how to set ISO levels or anything else.
Anyway, so I was at a 3-day event a few weeks ago, and was hoping that my M8 was going to be a huge quality boost over my EVO 3D. Sure, the photos would be 4MP instead of 5 (Though most of my photos were 2MP anyway since I mostly shot in 3D) but I figured the phone being several years newer and having high low-light performance would offset that.... boy was I wrong.
I noticed that my indoor photos were kinda fuzzy and blurry, even with my hand held still (thank you HTC for removing the OIS...) so I resorted to taking the same photos 2-4 times and hope I can pick a "best shot" out of the batch later when I could review all my photos on a PC. (Yes, I know I can hold the shoot button to make it auto-snap quick images, but I wouldn't have time to review and select the best out of each one for each photo I took). Even with this many of them even with perfect focus were still pretty terribly grainy/noisy, some even out of a batch of 5-6 remained blurry.
Outdoor where there is a lot of sunlight...... had it's OWN problems! Any object, sign, wall, or person clothed in white was overexposed to near comical levels! I had taken many shots, both with the subjects in focus and out (on a shaded area so it used more light on the subjects) and both on auto and flash off. This resulted in photos that were kinda badly over-exposed to photos that were so badly overexposed anything with white in it just looks like a bunch of white blobs! Even of the ones where it managed to get decent exposure on the subjects, the image was overly dark and anything not in focus which was white was still overexposed to the point of any and all detail being lost. (Seriously, it was so bad that there were signs which just looked like a solid white rectangle or circle, no words or symbols could even be noticed on them).
I took over 2000 photos (over 4 gigs worth) during those three days, mainly just mashing the shutter button at slightly different settings and angles hoping one out of every 20 or so would at least be usable... and to say that I can even get 100 to 200 "passable" photos out of these 2000+ would be a stretch!
The other day I was experimenting with the HDR option that I was advised to try which should hopefully alleviate these under/over exposed issues. Purposely shooting white objects in bright outdoor conditions in different conditions with HDR on and off. Didn't really help. The condition or light focus on which I shot them in HDR mode seemed to not matter, but the image was still fairly over-exposed. Not AS bad as when the focus is off the white object, but still pretty close (and still nowhere near as good as when the focus IS on the white object). On top of that, many of the HDR photos looked washed-out and with dulled colors (I thought HDR made colors more vivid?).
So I am at a loss, I don't know if this is a problem with my new expensive phone which I am stuck with's camera, if I am just using it horribly incorrectly, or both. (I remember several reviews mentioning over-exposure being an issue, but I didn't expect it to be worse than my EVO 3D, and it was mostly for background objects).
Does any have any tips or advice on what I can do?
Cyber Akuma said:
Ok, let me start out by saying I know very very little about photography. I pretty much just leave it on Auto. I mean, I know how to switch between different presets (Auto, Portrait, Night, HDR, etc.) and that you can tap to focus there.... that's about it. I don't know how to set ISO levels or anything else.
Anyway, so I was at a 3-day event a few weeks ago, and was hoping that my M8 was going to be a huge quality boost over my EVO 3D. Sure, the photos would be 4MP instead of 5 (Though most of my photos were 2MP anyway since I mostly shot in 3D) but I figured the phone being several years newer and having high low-light performance would offset that.... boy was I wrong.
I noticed that my indoor photos were kinda fuzzy and blurry, even with my hand held still (thank you HTC for removing the OIS...) so I resorted to taking the same photos 2-4 times and hope I can pick a "best shot" out of the batch later when I could review all my photos on a PC. (Yes, I know I can hold the shoot button to make it auto-snap quick images, but I wouldn't have time to review and select the best out of each one for each photo I took). Even with this many of them even with perfect focus were still pretty terribly grainy/noisy, some even out of a batch of 5-6 remained blurry.
Outdoor where there is a lot of sunlight...... had it's OWN problems! Any object, sign, wall, or person clothed in white was overexposed to near comical levels! I had taken many shots, both with the subjects in focus and out (on a shaded area so it used more light on the subjects) and both on auto and flash off. This resulted in photos that were kinda badly over-exposed to photos that were so badly overexposed anything with white in it just looks like a bunch of white blobs! Even of the ones where it managed to get decent exposure on the subjects, the image was overly dark and anything not in focus which was white was still overexposed to the point of any and all detail being lost. (Seriously, it was so bad that there were signs which just looked like a solid white rectangle or circle, no words or symbols could even be noticed on them).
I took over 2000 photos (over 4 gigs worth) during those three days, mainly just mashing the shutter button at slightly different settings and angles hoping one out of every 20 or so would at least be usable... and to say that I can even get 100 to 200 "passable" photos out of these 2000+ would be a stretch!
The other day I was experimenting with the HDR option that I was advised to try which should hopefully alleviate these under/over exposed issues. Purposely shooting white objects in bright outdoor conditions in different conditions with HDR on and off. Didn't really help. The condition or light focus on which I shot them in HDR mode seemed to not matter, but the image was still fairly over-exposed. Not AS bad as when the focus is off the white object, but still pretty close (and still nowhere near as good as when the focus IS on the white object). On top of that, many of the HDR photos looked washed-out and with dulled colors (I thought HDR made colors more vivid?).
So I am at a loss, I don't know if this is a problem with my new expensive phone which I am stuck with's camera, if I am just using it horribly incorrectly, or both. (I remember several reviews mentioning over-exposure being an issue, but I didn't expect it to be worse than my EVO 3D, and it was mostly for background objects).
Does any have any tips or advice on what I can do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is an Anti-shake mode. I'd check your lenses for scratches, sometimes the coating gets scratched and causes problems. It can be removed.
Incidentally my lens is perfect and nothing at all wrong with the photos it takes.
Is blue tint on pixel 2xl dangerous for eyes?
P2xl said:
Is blue tint on pixel 2xl dangerous for eyes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I (med student) am pleased that my knowledge can be shared here. I'm still a student and not an expert in ophthalmology, but I have basic knowledge about the matter.
In general, blue light has more effect on your brain than your eyes themselves, it keeps you awake. Reading mode or "night mode" or every other features that adds a red filter to your screen is made to filter blue light, thus not keeping you awake.
The main thing that's harmful to your eyes are the intensity of the light, the intensity contrast (a moderate light in a bright environment won't be harmful, but the same intensity in a dark room will surely harm your eyes in the long run), and the focus.
What I mean by the focus is that every activity (would it be reading books, reading on a screen, examining very small objects, ...) that forces your eye to accommodate (=focus) a long period of time or repeatedly is to be throughly limited by pauses in the viewing effort. Otherwise it could lead to acquired astigmatism or hypermetropia.
Often your works requires you to work on a screen nowadays, but you shall make pauses (I'd say 5min each hours) to rest your eyes.
The pauses to "rest your eyes" should consist in viewing as far as your glance can reach, perfect if you're in a building, or high up. That exercice will rest your eye's muscles and preserve your sight longer.
Have a good day
Raiz said:
I (med student) am pleased that my knowledge can be shared here. I'm still a student and not an expert in ophthalmology, but I have basic knowledge about the matter.
In general, blue light has more effect on your brain than your eyes themselves, it keeps you awake. Reading mode or "night mode" or every other features that adds a red filter to your screen is made to filter blue light, thus not keeping you awake.
The main thing that's harmful to your eyes are the intensity of the light, the intensity contrast (a moderate light in a bright environment won't be harmful, but the same intensity in a dark room will surely harm your eyes in the long run), and the focus.
What I mean by the focus is that every activity (would it be reading books, reading on a screen, examining very small objects, ...) that forces your eye to accommodate (=focus) a long period of time or repeatedly is to be throughly limited by pauses in the viewing effort. Otherwise it could lead to acquired astigmatism or hypermetropia.
Often your works requires you to work on a screen nowadays, but you shall make pauses (I'd say 5min each hours) to rest your eyes.
The pauses to "rest your eyes" should consist in viewing as far as your glance can reach, perfect if you're in a building, or high up. That exercice will rest your eye's muscles and preserve your sight longer.
Have a good day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very detailed reply, thanks a lot bro