Related
*edit - apparently this is for ICS roms only. Gb does not have the setting.
Go to advanced in wifi settings and change to 2.4 only. Stop letting the 5 GHz bands eat the crap out of your battery.
This could be why some have stellar battery life and others not so much. As the router will dictate the band used.
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I'm gonna give this a try!
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Is that setting only on ICS? I'm not seeing it anywhere. I've only had 5 beers today fishing so i'm not blind yet lol
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Hmm, i don't see that setting for picking 2.4 or 5GHZ in my Epic Touch. I am running GB by the way.
Yeah this is for ICS only. Unless I'm missing something
Sent from my iPhone killer.
System settings wifi menu advanced then wifi frequency band and then you have options then can change 2.4, or 5ghz
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I don't see this option on aokp
Sent from my slim n trim Galaxy S II.
jamesey said:
Go to advanced in wifi settings and change to 2.4 only. Stop letting N eat the crap out of your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you trying to say 2.4 Ghz N is eating less power than 5Ghz? Because 802.11N Operates on both frequencies and most inexpensive routers are 2.4 ONLY. Then there are dual band routers which in base only do one or the other and then simultaneous dual band which usually fetches a decent price tag.
It just seemed like you were saying putting it in 2.4Ghz disables N connectivity and that would be simply false. I have seen plenty of people mistakenly believe N is 5Ghz only. Despite the lower interference on the 5Ghz band 2.4Ghz has better material penetration and I wont go 5.
If you don't need N speeds in your house at this point and are doing this to save energy (a point I won't even bother going into) you could always configure it to G only or B/G only. I actually have mine (2.4Ghz) set to N only so I don't have to worry about the laptop trying to connect in G.
Why would this work? I will try this with my new router soon
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hayabusa1300cc said:
Why would this work? I will try this with my new router soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depending upon the router it should have no effect at all. This is the router I replaced a slightly more powerful ASUS RT-N16 with but its 2.4Ghz N, 2x2 MIMO for up to 300 Gbps with appropriate devices across the network - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704038
Going from Auto to 2.4Ghz on either one of those routers would do nothing as well as on a hundred other N routers made of the last couple years. Only Dual band routers set to 5Ghz or simultaneous Dual Band and the phone set to 5Ghz or Auto would have any effect on changing it to 2.4. If you had a Dual Band set to 5Ghz and you went 2.4 you would just lose WiFi entirely were as Simultaneous dual band would just switch from 5Ghz N to 2.4 Ghz G/N.
RainMotorsports said:
Are you trying to say 2.4 Ghz N is eating less power than 5Ghz? Because 802.11N Operates on both frequencies and most inexpensive routers are 2.4 ONLY. Then there are dual band routers which in base only do one or the other and then simultaneous dual band which usually fetches a decent price tag.
It just seemed like you were saying putting it in 2.4Ghz disables N connectivity and that would be simply false. I have seen plenty of people mistakenly believe N is 5Ghz only. Despite the lower interference on the 5Ghz band 2.4Ghz has better material penetration and I wont go 5.
If you don't need N speeds in your house at this point and are doing this to save energy (a point I won't even bother going into) you could always configure it to G only or B/G only. I actually have mine (2.4Ghz) set to N only so I don't have to worry about the laptop trying to connect in G.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me rephrase, 5GHz band uses alot more battery. So the tweak remains a positive gain in battery performance.
Yes, apparently I was wrong in the fact it doesn't turn off N as it can run in both spectrums and I will adjust the thread. Thx for sharing.
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jamesey said:
Let me rephrase, 5GHz bands uses alot more battery. So the tweak remains a positive gain in battery performance.
Yes, apparently I was wrong in the fact it doesn't turn off N as it can run in both spectrums and I will adjust the thread. Thx for sharing.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just wanted to make sure, you know how the noobs are when they come and "read".
Yeah I haven't invested in a Simultaneous dual band router myself so no worries. If I lived in a loft or something I would go for it but I have too much trouble with material penetration. I actually had to run cat 6 to each floor and run AP's on each one. Without it I can not access from my front porch or my back yard either. Top floor AP serves the backyard and the middle floor AP serves the front.
As far as Turning of N I am not 100% on if it defaults to G but the point is it can do N in 2.4. When I was on EK02 and I had the main router in BGN I had a feeling the damn thing was in G for the phone but without connectivity information from the phone I couldn't test it. I mean how do you do 75 Mbps plus from phone to a machine on the network?
RainMotorsports said:
Depending upon the router it should have no effect at all. This is the router I replaced a slightly more powerful ASUS RT-N16 with but its 2.4Ghz N, 2x2 MIMO for up to 300 Gbps with appropriate devices across the network - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704038
Going from Auto to 2.4Ghz on either one of those routers would do nothing as well as on a hundred other N routers made of the last couple years. Only Dual band routers set to 5Ghz or simultaneous Dual Band and the phone set to 5Ghz or Auto would have any effect on changing it to 2.4. If you had a Dual Band set to 5Ghz and you went 2.4 you would just lose WiFi entirely were as Simultaneous dual band would just switch from 5Ghz N to 2.4 Ghz G/N.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Running on auto with use being the same at times I'd cook through the battery in 1.5 hours straight screen time with phone burning up and other times 4-5 hours with phone remaining cool. So far it looks like it was my culprit hence the post. Maybe there is an underlying bug with the auto option who knows. Either way we'll find out soon enough.
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Thanks for the link, I'm gonna pick up a TL-WR2543ND
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RainMotorsports said:
I actually have mine (2.4Ghz) set to N only so I don't have to worry about the laptop trying to connect in G.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might be mistaken, but isn't N backwards compatible? I could swear I remember B/G devices being able to connect to a router that only broadcasts N
Apk07 said:
I might be mistaken, but isn't N backwards compatible? I could swear I remember B/G devices being able to connect to a router that only broadcasts N
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
N is backwards compatible. Unless you ask Cisco or well anyone involved in creating N hardware. Its actually considered a bad idea to mix G and N. The performance and stability is rather unideal but it works.
However if you set a router to N only you should not be able to connect a G only device. If you can then that router has some serious firmware issues. I don't know of any consumer N hardware that isn't designed by default to be compatible with B G and N. Though the reason I am concerned with the laptop connecting in G is because of syncing files over the network. Id hate for it to connect in G for no reason.
I will fire up the laptop and force G mode in the driver see what happens. I do not have any G adapters. I think my PSP is 802.11 B but im not bothering with it right now lol.
---------- Post added at 03:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 AM ----------
Nope. Both the Intel 5100 and Intel 6200 adapters in the laptop set to G only will not connect to the router in N only. Takes a really long time before it would let me enter a key and very shortly after I did it said it could not connect. The reason given by diagnostics is "The capabilities of the wireless adapter on this computer don't support the requirements of this network."
RainMotorsports said:
Depending upon the router it should have no effect at all. This is the router I replaced a slightly more powerful ASUS RT-N16 with but its 2.4Ghz N, 2x2 MIMO for up to 300 Gbps with appropriate devices across the network - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704038
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why did you switch routers? I've got the ASUS RT-N16 which works great and I can put Tomato on it. (I'm assuming that the 300 Gbps is a typo and you meant Mbps...). Just wanted to see if I was missing out on something, because that TP Link sure is a great price.
RainMotorsports said:
N is backwards compatible. Unless you ask Cisco or well anyone involved in creating N hardware. Its actually considered a bad idea to mix G and N. The performance and stability is rather unideal but it works.
However if you set a router to N only you should not be able to connect a G only device. If you can then that router has some serious firmware issues. I don't know of any consumer N hardware that isn't designed by default to be compatible with B G and N. Though the reason I am concerned with the laptop connecting in G is because of syncing files over the network. Id hate for it to connect in G for no reason.
I will fire up the laptop and force G mode in the driver see what happens. I do not have any G adapters. I think my PSP is 802.11 B but im not bothering with it right now lol.
---------- Post added at 03:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 AM ----------
Nope. Both the Intel 5100 and Intel 6200 adapters in the laptop set to G only will not connect to the router in N only. Takes a really long time before it would let me enter a key and very shortly after I did it said it could not connect. The reason given by diagnostics is "The capabilities of the wireless adapter on this computer don't support the requirements of this network."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To expand a bit on the above post:
I use a dual band Linksys (cisco) E3000 router running DD-WRT for dual band 2.4 Ghz (N+G) / 5 Ghz (N-Only) operation. 2.4 Ghz has much better penetration for low power/antenna devices (phones, tablets, etc). Speed is not usually an issue on these devices as you would not be transferring or streaming large files.
The downside to having N+G on is that performance of the whole network drops to barely above G speeds (54 mbps) when a G devices i connected. Backwards compatible? Yes. Ideal for speed? No
Hence the 5 Ghz operation on N only connected to high speed "real wireless devices." There is less interference on the spectrum but penetration is terrible; so brick houses, multistories, etc without proper antenna devices get poor signal (phones). Great for streaming or file sharing over wireless though - 720p? No problem.
If you are like me and have 10+ network devices on at a time that is a lot of traffic, especially on the limited G 2.4 Ghz channels with an already crowded spectrum of wifi area. Splitting the bandwidth was the best thing I ever did for network performance across all devices. Hardly anyone is using 5 Ghz right now and even when it becomes widely adopted (3+ years) there is a lot more channel (room) in the standard.
TL;DR: 2.4 Ghz is all around better for the phone. Buy a dual band router on sale, but leave the 5 Ghz on the phone off, it isn't worth it.
Just wanted to drop my thoughts here...
First thought, Heck Yeah! I wondered why it was randomly deciding to eat my battery when sitting at home browsing on the couch with my phone. I didn't even realize this thing was capable of N. LOL Didn't really care to know at the time.
I have quite a bit of time working with N style wireless devices. In the place I lived before here, I had both of my home servers on different sides of the house. And being servers; sometimes they needed that massive bandwidth that N is capable of. But like was said previously; 5.0Ghz doesn't like walls too much. Just look at cordless phones in your house, most are either 2.4Ghz or now that Direct6.0 or whatever you want to call it. However, the 6.0 isn't that great for penetration either as the signal wavelength gets too choppy. 2.4Ghz is about as far as you want to go if it's a radio signal you're willing to drop through any physical barrier.
Now as for the discussion on N/G. Yes, almost every router to date that supports N, whether it be draft N, N150, N300 or whatever other determination they come up with; they must support G. A/B, not so much but usually radios today are integrated with G/B/A support either way. I've actually had people call me to find out why their laptops won't use their massive 50mb/s connections as well as their desktop simply to find that the laptop is using B or A to connect even though it's so close to the router.
As for these phones, I'm not sure if they are the same, but most of the "draft" N devices actually separated the bands from A/B/G and N as it was so "new". Cisco routers were the first to actually compile them together as I remember researching these for a school project in "Introduction to Routers" in college.
So, basically this could be entirely true, as our phones may have a single chip providing the entire 2.4Ghz bands and a secondary to simply run 5.0Ghz. I'm going to test my results here at home and see the differences but I can almost be 100% positive that it is true in this situation. Sounds like a fun experiment to try when in reach of my charging cord!
steddora said:
Just wanted to drop my thoughts here...
First thought, Heck Yeah! I wondered why it was randomly deciding to eat my battery when sitting at home browsing on the couch with my phone. I didn't even realize this thing was capable of N. LOL Didn't really care to know at the time.
I have quite a bit of time working with N style wireless devices. In the place I lived before here, I had both of my home servers on different sides of the house. And being servers; sometimes they needed that massive bandwidth that N is capable of. But like was said previously; 5.0Ghz doesn't like walls too much. Just look at cordless phones in your house, most are either 2.4Ghz or now that Direct6.0 or whatever you want to call it. However, the 6.0 isn't that great for penetration either as the signal wavelength gets too choppy. 2.4Ghz is about as far as you want to go if it's a radio signal you're willing to drop through any physical barrier.
Now as for the discussion on N/G. Yes, almost every router to date that supports N, whether it be draft N, N150, N300 or whatever other determination they come up with; they must support G. A/B, not so much but usually radios today are integrated with G/B/A support either way. I've actually had people call me to find out why their laptops won't use their massive 50mb/s connections as well as their desktop simply to find that the laptop is using B or A to connect even though it's so close to the router.
As for these phones, I'm not sure if they are the same, but most of the "draft" N devices actually separated the bands from A/B/G and N as it was so "new". Cisco routers were the first to actually compile them together as I remember researching these for a school project in "Introduction to Routers" in college.
So, basically this could be entirely true, as our phones may have a single chip providing the entire 2.4Ghz bands and a secondary to simply run 5.0Ghz. I'm going to test my results here at home and see the differences but I can almost be 100% positive that it is true in this situation. Sounds like a fun experiment to try when in reach of my charging cord!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please share the results. It's the only thing I could think of causing random fast drains on wifi
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so i have a fairly new lg smart TV with built in chromecast..or their alternative..i can connect fine to it from my the phone, image comes up, looks clear, but its so choppy and stuttery that its unusable really..
the same thing happens with my asus memo pad..and one else experienced this or got any tips, cheers
I have had this problem when my internet speed just wasn't fast enough for streaming. We were suppose to have 30 mbps but in reality it was 2-3 mbps, Hargray said we lost all that speed due to it being a wireless connection. We got rid of Hargray, got TimeWarner, paid for 50 mbps, and in reality wirelessly we still got 50 mbps wirelessly and streaming was no longer a problem. This was not with miracast, but netflix and amazon streaming- but the principle is the same.
works very well with cm11.. yay
back to stock 4.6.1 and its ****, whats the difference between stock and cm11??
How fast can the Google pixel go on a 1 gig up and down internet? I'm only getting these speeds:
I also have the Netgear x10 router and should get way faster speeds. Wired to computer is over 900. Possibly wireless function not working great.
That's pretty low. I get 350 mbps down and like 30 Up at home and my wireless download speed beats that. This is using an ASUS RT1900P Router connected to a Motorola SB6190 Gigabit Modem. There are many things that can come into play here.
First of all, let's understand what the Pixel is capable of. According to Qualcomm, the Snapdragon 820/821 is capable of 802.11ad and 802.11ac 2x2 MU-MIMO. This means a peak speed of 867 mbps. Pretty close to your gigabit connection's speed and more than you'll probably ever need for your cellphone. I must mention, however, that there is a thread around here somewhere that seems to have confirmed that wifi speeds throttle when the phone is not plugged into a charger. I'm not sure if that has been fixed but Google is aware of it. I have a feeling that this is by design.
You seem to have the right, if not the best, router for the job. Just try to keep in mind there's a lot of sorcery that goes on behind the scenes with routers and there might be options, depending on how savvy you are, that you can enable or disable to make things faster. QoS comes to mind, which I'm sure the router has enabled by default. If there are other people in your home or on your network streaming or downloading/uploading things the router is going to prioritize traffic a certain way so everyone's experience stays the same. Not to mention this will take a chunk out of the bandwidth available from your ISP. Additionally, the 802.11ad sounds awesome, but cannot get through walls that well. Like at all. It's purely Line of Sight. So unless you're in the same room as your Router, you're not going to experience the benefit of the Wireless-AD 60GHz madness. Channel Width has a direct effect on the theoretical speeds you can achieve with your wireless network. I have a feeling the router automatically chooses channel width based on the other networks in the area. Most of the time, the 160 MHz or 80 MHz channel width won't be selected by default, which seems like what you want. Read up on Channel Widths and why it isn't always beneficial to choose the widest one. The wider the channel width, the more channels you utilize, which means an increased chance for a nearby network to be using the same channel.
It's a good idea to micromanage which devices on your network are connected to which band. Try to keep slower, legacy and non-essential devices on the 2.4 GHz band. This preserves the speed of the 5 GHz band. In my home, I've passworded the 5 GHz network differently than the 2.4 GHz network and made sure to only add smart TVs, Streaming devices and phones to it. Other slower devices like older laptops, thermostats, and devices out of, what I would call, acceptable signal strength range of the 5 GHz network etc. are connected to the 2.4 GHz band.
I didn't originally intend for this post to be so long-winded but here we are. Basically, it could be any number of things. Try connecting your phone to the charger, connect to your 5GHz network, and run the test. Make sure you're running the test to the same server that you used when you ran the test on your hardlined computer. This way the numbers are directly comparable. If you live in a heavily populated area like an apartment building, there can be a fair amount of interference that will affect your experience. Luckily that band isn't as crowded and there are many channels that the router or you can choose from but, again, the wider the channel width the more likely you are to have interference. Speaking of playing with router settings, you can try optimizing your experience with things like channel width, channel, beacon interval, and QoS settings to start. Perform these tests at night when most people are sleeping to give you the fastest results.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
Source: The Internet, Netgear, Qualcomm, Cisco, Intel, my B.S. in Computer Security
Alcolawl said:
That's pretty low. I get 350 mbps down and like 30 Up at home and my wireless download speed beats that. This is using an ASUS RT1900P Router connected to a Motorola SB6190 Gigabit Modem. There are many things that can come into play here.
First of all, let's understand what the Pixel is capable of. According to Qualcomm, the Snapdragon 820/821 is capable of 802.11ad and 802.11ac 2x2 MU-MIMO. This means a peak speed of 867 mbps. Pretty close to your gigabit connection's speed and more than you'll probably ever need for your cellphone. I must mention, however, that there is a thread around here somewhere that seems to have confirmed that wifi speeds throttle when the phone is not plugged into a charger. I'm not sure if that has been fixed but Google is aware of it. I have a feeling that this is by design.
You seem to have the right, if not the best, router for the job. Just try to keep in mind there's a lot of sorcery that goes on behind the scenes with routers and there might be options, depending on how savvy you are, that you can enable or disable to make things faster. QoS comes to mind, which I'm sure the router has enabled by default. If there are other people in your home or on your network streaming or downloading/uploading things the router is going to prioritize traffic a certain way so everyone's experience stays the same. Not to mention this will take a chunk out of the bandwidth available from your ISP. Additionally, the 802.11ad sounds awesome, but cannot get through walls that well. Like at all. It's purely Line of Sight. So unless you're in the same room as your Router, you're not going to experience the benefit of the Wireless-AD 60GHz madness. Channel Width has a direct effect on the theoretical speeds you can achieve with your wireless network. I have a feeling the router automatically chooses channel width based on the other networks in the area. Most of the time, the 160 MHz or 80 MHz channel width won't be selected by default, which seems like what you want. Read up on Channel Widths and why it isn't always beneficial to choose the widest one. The wider the channel width, the more channels you utilize, which means an increased chance for a nearby network to be using the same channel.
It's a good idea to micromanage which devices on your network are connected to which band. Try to keep slower, legacy and non-essential devices on the 2.4 GHz band. This preserves the speed of the 5 GHz band. In my home, I've passworded the 5 GHz network differently than the 2.4 GHz network and made sure to only add smart TVs, Streaming devices and phones to it. Other slower devices like older laptops, thermostats, and devices out of, what I would call, acceptable signal strength range of the 5 GHz network etc. are connected to the 2.4 GHz band.
I didn't originally intend for this post to be so long-winded but here we are. Basically, it could be any number of things. Try connecting your phone to the charger, connect to your 5GHz network, and run the test. Make sure you're running the test to the same server that you used when you ran the test on your hardlined computer. This way the numbers are directly comparable. If you live in a heavily populated area like an apartment building, there can be a fair amount of interference that will affect your experience. Luckily that band isn't as crowded and there are many channels that the router or you can choose from but, again, the wider the channel width the more likely you are to have interference. Speaking of playing with router settings, you can try optimizing your experience with things like channel width, channel, beacon interval, and QoS settings to start. Perform these tests at night when most people are sleeping to give you the fastest results.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
Source: The Internet, Netgear, Qualcomm, Cisco, Intel, my B.S. in Computer Security
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for this post. This phone is able to pick up on 802.11ad?? I am not seeing that on my list of wireless options. I am in the same room as the router. Something is not right with the router. will def plug in the phone and try to do the speed test again tonight when I get home.
lucky_strike33 said:
Thank you for this post. This phone is able to pick up on 802.11ad?? I am not seeing that on my list of wireless options. I am in the same room as the router. Something is not right with the router. will def plug in the phone and try to do the speed test again tonight when I get home.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not had the chance to connect to an 802.11ad source yet, so I'm not sure what the experience is like as far as connecting to it. It might be seamless as long as the router has band steering. That is, when looking at the WiFi list, I'm not sure if there will be three networks there or just two. Try to think of 802.11ad as complementary to your current 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Wireless AD was really just a concept or in testing when I was in school for this stuff so I don't have a huge amount of knowledge of how the experience works. Might have to wait for someone else to chime in in that regard.
Alcolawl said:
I have not had the chance to connect to an 802.11ad source yet, so I'm not sure what the experience is like as far as connecting to it. It might be seamless as long as the router has band steering. That is, when looking at the WiFi list, I'm not sure if there will be three networks there or just two. Try to think of 802.11ad as complementary to your current 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Wireless AD was really just a concept or in testing when I was in school for this stuff so I don't have a huge amount of knowledge of how the experience works. Might have to wait for someone else to chime in in that regard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the x10 has 3 different bands, 2.4 , 5 and 60 hz . I am thinking the 60hz is 802.11 ad, I could be wrong??
lucky_strike33 said:
the x10 has 3 different bands, 2.4 , 5 and 60 hz . I am thinking the 60hz is 802.11 ad, I could be wrong??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct. I just don't know if 802.11ad is complimentary to the 5Ghz band in a way where the client will switch between the two seamlessly or if you have to explicitly tell the device to connect to the 60 GHz band.
Have you ever gone to your router configuration page or is that stuff kind of over your head? I wonder if the 60 GHz band is disabled out of the box
Alcolawl said:
You are correct. I just don't know if 802.11ad is complimentary to the 5Ghz band in a way where the client will switch between the two seamlessly or if you have to explicitly tell the device to connect to the 60 GHz band.
Have you ever gone to your router configuration page or is that stuff kind of over your head? I wonder if the 60 GHz band is disabled out of the box
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's enabled and my phone is unable to pickup that band. I'm gonna test some more tonight when I get home. Plug in the phone and test it out. The router could be a lemon.
This may have been the problem...
By default, 20/40 MHz Coexistence is enabled on your NETGEAR router to avoid interference between wireless networks. You can disable this feature to help your devices connect at the maximum supported wireless speed.
lucky_strike33 said:
This may have been the problem...
By default, 20/40 MHz Coexistence is enabled on your NETGEAR router to avoid interference between wireless networks. You can disable this feature to help your devices connect at the maximum supported wireless speed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I suspected. My first post explains exactly why this is the default setting on that router. If you live in a neighborhood where the houses are a decent distance apart, you can try enabling the 80 MHz or 160 MHz channel widths, but if you're in a more densely populated area, this wouldn't be a good move. Download a WiFi Analyzer app from the Play Store to be sure. I believe Netgear makes a good one. The goal is to not use any channels that the other networks reaching your home use. If you still have the instruction manual for your router you can try playing with the settings yourself on your hardlined computer. I'm not familiar with the Netgear UI but it should be pretty straightforward. Nothing to be apprehensive about, really, almost anything can be reversed or undone. Usually the default IP is 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1. Type that into an internet browser and you can tweak everything from there.
Most people just plug their routers in and never touch any of the settings. The settings in there are powerful and can be used to harness the full potential of your router and really optimize your network. It usually takes a lot of time, wifi analyses, and a decent amount of reading to get it just the way you want it. But when you do, it's awesome.
Bumping this because I'm upgrading to 1gbps connection and I was searching how much speed does the Pixel og support.
I found this article and I think it's useful because it's a real test made on the pixel. I'ts a little bit old, but just in case someone is interested, here it is.
Ok so I have a fire stick gen 2 which ive run into a pretty big issue with, just so we can get all this information out of the way my isp is cox. My download speed is 50 mbps normally without the vpn and its jumping all the way down to 10 mbps with it (im doing all my testing with Arnu speed test on kodi) and the vpn im using is Windscribe (great deal btw 37 dollars for a lifetime subscription) As well as to eliminate a few potential factors ive also tried to use PIA and tried my firestick on multiple different peoples internet connections. All of these different attempts show up with the same results. Kodi works great on my phone with the same vpn and same wifi connection with little to no speed loss . I even bought real debrid so i know its not being caused by the sources of my streams. Is this a common issue with fire sticks ? does anybody know if its hardware or software? If no one knows of a fix do you recommend i buy a new fire stick or just buy a fire tv? Any info on this problem would be greatly appreciated, thanks .
I tried searching this and posting elsewhere but not getting traction, though I see many with similar complaints, and a lot of youtube traffic about 'FIX Fire 4K buffering" etc. A close friend asked my help with an issue with their new Fire 4K. Long story short, after checking all the other potential problems, indeed I was able to isolate the Fire 4K itself as producing WIFI throughput that is about a tenth of where it should be, on a 2.4ghz band. It is sitting about 2 feet from the router. Every other device [one pc, two handsets, one macbook] get from 5x to well over 10x what the Fire 4K is, and even then it is unstable. The througput varies widely, resulting in really annoying performance.
I was quite sure that the 2 units I personally own were up to speed, ... until I tested repetitively. Though better than what I saw at my friend's place, both of these produce about the same throughput on 5ghz or 2.4ghz - seems little different, and that throughput, especially compared to good devices on the 5ghz band, is fractional also, about 30% of the average of other devices in the same exact spot, all things equal.
Anyone been through this? What is the cure?. Where are the advanced network settings for this thing? the menu shows next to nothing, and I applaud them for simplicity but the performance is out of line with the industry