First Off, Huge thanks to F50+ This man sacrificed his tab to locate these resistors.
introduction
I'm not kidding when I say UnBrickable. Modifying the OM pins means you can boot from USB, UART or MMC. This makes the device quite UNBRICKABLE. There is nothing you can do software wise to prevent the device from booting into this mode. We are communicating with the unrewritable, efused IROM on the processor. It's the thing that makes the system on a chip into a "system on a chip".I am here now to tell you how to turn your Samsung P1000 into a KIT-S5PC110 development board. The KIT-S5PC110 development board is the platform used to develop our phones. There are some differences between this mod and the official development platform. The S5PC110 has a removable internal SDCard and no touchscreen.
Why would you want to do this? When you plug in the battery and connect it to the computer in "off" mode, it will become an S5PC110 board awaiting download of a program to run. This occurs long before anything like software or firmware enters the processor. This is the IROM of the device awaiting commands or a power on signal.
How could it possibly be better then JTAG? Let's count the ways....
1. The only part required is a wire.
2. No shipping time.
3. No cost for a box to interface the computer.
4. Permanent.
5. Can be done as a preventive measure.
6. Gives the ability to test new Bootloaders temporarily.
7. Allows development of the entire system.
8. Removes worry about flashing and acts as a backup.
After performing this mod:
Remove the battery, replace the battery, your phone will connect to the computer via USB and await commands. Otherwise it will pretty much act like a P1000. See the Special Instructions section.
Part 1:Hardware Modification
You will need:
1. Get someone who knows what they're doing with a soldering iron. If they don't know what flux is, then they don't know what they're doing. You can send me a PM(or email my [email protected]) or Connexion2005(aka MobileTechVideos.com).
2. Soldering iron - make sure it's sharp, if it's not sharp, then sharpen it, flux it and retin it.
3. fFux
4. Solder
5. Tweezers
6. A relay (possibly- for the wire within to use as a bridge)
7. A #1 tri-blade driver
performing the modification:
1. tear apart your Galaxy Tab... Make sure to take out your SIM and external SDCard before you do this.
1A. Remove the screws.
1B. Separate the top case from the bottom case
****VIDEO OR PICTURES NEEDED*****
2. Perform the mod as follows: remove the xOM5 resistor and jumper the non-grounded pad of xOM5 to the same side of xOM0 or xOM3.
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I will be able to give more detail after I have performed this modification myself.
3. reassemble the Tab.
Special Instructions
This replaces the battery charging sequence. The normal battery charging sequence can be activated by holding power for 4 seconds, then plugging in the device, or you can use an authentic Samsung Charging Cable for charging the battery
To turn on the device, and operate in normal mode, you must hold the power button for 5 seconds.
Part 2: Software Based Resurrection
You Must have UnBrickable Mod applied to your device. If you're not sure, run this tool under Linux: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1257434
This currently only works for Linux based computers or Windows based computers with proper drivers installed, with a Linux Virtual Machine, Get Ubuntu here: http://www.ubuntu.com , Get Virtualbox Here: http://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads
You must have Java installed on your computer: http://www.java.com/en/download/
The entire software resurrection can be summed up like this
Here is a Galaxy Tab specific video
Unbricking:
1. Apply UnBrickable Mod to your device: see Hardware Modification section
2. Run The Ultimate UnBrickable Resurrector. You can find the Resurrector here in our SVN repository http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
When you see this image you are in S5PC110 SEC SoC mode. When you see this mode you must proceed to step 2.
If it will only show this image, then you have not performed the modification correctly, or you have a hardware problem.
If it shows this, regardless of what's on your screen, you're in download mode. Proceded to step 3.
2. Click the Download Mode button (then click the one next to it). I find it's easiest to click Download Mode, type a password, plug in the device, then press enter.
3. Run Heimdall One-Click to flash firmware on your device. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1323527
4. repeat steps 2 and 3 with bootloader flashing enabled (Heimdall One-Click has a safety mechanism which requires you to flash once before flashing bootloaders).
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software.
reading material
Creating your own Samsung Bootloaders: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1233273
KIT-S5PC110 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?94krzvvxksvmuxh
how to use DNW: http://tinyurl.com/dnw-how-to
Flash using openOCD and DNW: http://www.arm9board.net/wiki/index.php?title=Flash_using_OpenOCD_and_DNW
another DNW example: http://www.boardset.com/products/mv6410.php
ODroid dev center: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
drivers and utilities
This will be an ever expanding list
Linux Automated UnBricker:http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
Windows Drivers http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678937&d=1312590673
Windows Download Tool DNW: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678938&d=1312590673
Windows Command Line tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=17202523&postcount=27
Linux DNW Utility: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
Linux ModeDetect tool: http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
firmware
Bootloader Hello World by Rebellos http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=698077&d=1314105521
UnBrick tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1242466
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software. See here for setting up the UART output http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1235219
Omg this is incredible!!! You are a genius!!!
Summoned by my Heretic Tab
Yeah this is a genius idea for our galaxy tabs. With this, I no longer have to worry about bricking my device via odin because of my ****ty faulty HP laptop. (it happened once and i had to send it overseas for warranty repairs, 2 months w/o my tab )
lambstone said:
Yeah this is a genius idea for our galaxy tabs. With this, I no longer have to worry about bricking my device via odin because of my ****ty faulty HP laptop. (it happened once and i had to send it overseas for warranty repairs, 2 months w/o my tab )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still need to prove it works.
Good going Adam
Congratulations~~~~~
guaiwujia said:
Congratulations~~~~~
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its way too early for that... save that for the how-to thread.
how to
Looking forward to trying this on my tab. You mentioned firmware would need to be made,I assume stock boot loaders could be used right away?how do we know which is grounded pad? What is the relay for?
Cheers
david
diagdave said:
Looking forward to trying this on my tab. You mentioned firmware would need to be made,I assume stock boot loaders could be used right away?how do we know which is grounded pad? What is the relay for?
Cheers
david
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally!
diagdave said:
Looking forward to trying this on my tab. You mentioned firmware would need to be made,I assume stock boot loaders could be used right away?how do we know which is grounded pad? What is the relay for?
Cheers
david
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Until I'm able to actually perform this mod on a device, I can't tell you anything. I don't know any more than what's in the first post.
AdamOutler said:
Until I'm able to actually perform this mod on a device, I can't tell you anything. I don't know any more than what's in the first post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm gonna go ahead and guess that you don't have a device to test this on? Or just lack of time?
A bit of an update... Someone contacted me via PM to let me know that they bricked their device in the rare S5PC110 mode. This can happen if you damage your IBL from the IBL+PBL partition, or if the device realizes it cannot boot before attempting to do so. They were able to get their tab into download mode using the Linux Resurrector from the first post.
So, we've got the software part verified. Now, we need confirmation that the hardware mod will allow the device to enumerate as a "S5PC110 SEC SoC" on a Linux based system.
Someone please confirm that after the modification the device shows "S5PC110 debug mode" in Linux with the ModeDetect utility here: http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
AdamOutler said:
A bit of an update... Someone contacted me via PM to let me know that they bricked their device in the rare S5PC110 mode. This can happen if you damage your IBL from the IBL+PBL partition, or if the device realizes it cannot boot before attempting to do so. They were able to get their tab into download mode using the Linux Resurrector from the first post.
So, we've got the software part verified. Now, we need confirmation that the hardware mod will allow the device to enumerate as a "S5PC110 SEC SoC" on a Linux based system.
Someone please confirm that after the modification the device shows "S5PC110 debug mode" in Linux with the ModeDetect utility here: http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pinged you on IRC, but ModeDetect shows "S5PC110 UnBrickable Debug"
Found a well-documented teardown manual at ifixit
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-Teardown/4103/1
lilstevie said:
I pinged you on IRC, but ModeDetect shows "S5PC110 UnBrickable Debug"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great.. Can you run the resurrector and verify that it goes into download mode?
AdamOutler said:
Great.. Can you run the resurrector and verify that it goes into download mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep, it does, only difference is that it is not a bootloader designed for this device, it turns the LED flash on, and doesn't bring the screen up, but in any case, heimdall can communicate, although I have not tried flashing from it yet
lilstevie said:
yep, it does, only difference is that it is not a bootloader designed for this device, it turns the LED flash on, and doesn't bring the screen up, but in any case, heimdall can communicate, although I have not tried flashing from it yet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Try running a heimdall print-pit or a close-pc-screen to verify everything works. Ill get a one-click back to stock and a one-click CWM prepared for testing later tonight if that works.
If you have the tools available, it would be good to probe around for the UART output from the device. UART is the first step to porting other OSs to a device.
My setup is an Arduino Mega. For probing I connect the RX line to a small piece of wire with a sewing needle attached. I ground the ground on the Arduino to the ground on the board. I then run minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0. Set the options to 8n1 flow control off. Then probe around on the board while repeatedly pressing the power button so as to trigger UART transmission without turning on the device. Once you find a point with weird question marks, hold the power button, take a picture and annotate it.
The most common points are on the JTAG port. Usually they are opposite of the processor 's pin 0 dot. The RX and TX are always side-by-side. This would help people develop this device.
guys, you're **cking best! I was waiting for that! so, I have 2 questions:
1) if I disassemble my tab I will lose my warranty any way, isn't it?
2) I'm not sure with my english so can anybody translate it in russian (please no google translate, I don't want to loose my beutiful device).
thanks for answers
p.s. is there any disassemble instuctions?
AdamOutler said:
Awesome. Try running a heimdall print-pit or a close-pc-screen to verify everything works. Ill get a one-click back to stock and a one-click CWM prepared for testing later tonight if that works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did that before posting it worked, that was part of my confirmation
---------- Post added at 10:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------
AdamOutler said:
If you have the tools available, it would be good to probe around for the UART output from the device. UART is the first step to porting other OSs to a device.
My setup is an Arduino Mega. For probing I connect the RX line to a small piece of wire with a sewing needle attached. I ground the ground on the Arduino to the ground on the board. I then run minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0. Set the options to 8n1 flow control off. Then probe around on the board while repeatedly pressing the power button so as to trigger UART transmission without turning on the device. Once you find a point with weird question marks, hold the power button, take a picture and annotate it.
The most common points are on the JTAG port. Usually they are opposite of the processor 's pin 0 dot. The RX and TX are always side-by-side. This would help people develop this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
UART is pin 20 (RX) and 21 (TX) on the docking port, we have actually had this for a while, The jtag port is different on this device, it is along the edge of the board and coated so you need to scrape them back to get access.
---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------
devilng said:
guys, you're **cking best! I was waiting for that! so, I have 2 questions:
1) if I disassemble my tab I will lose my warranty any way, isn't it?
2) I'm not sure with my english so can anybody translate it in russian (please no google translate, I don't want to loose my beutiful device).
thanks for answers
p.s. is there any disassemble instuctions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah you will lose your warranty when opening the device,
before getting someone to translate I would really make sure you know how to solder, I needed to use liquid flux to aid getting this done, and I don't normally use it ever, the points where you need to solder are fairly small.
Related
Around one year ago I bricked mine Mio P550m performing the same wrong flashing procedure as many people did here in the forum. I’ve flashed unofficial wm6.5 not using dnw flashing application but using flash memory card. After flashing with checksum errors and restarting, Mio was in error mode with all LEDs on without possibility to load into bootloader.
Recently I’ve decided to try to take corrective actions. Although I was not thoroughly convinced that I would succeed I overcame few difficulties and finally Mio was successfully repaired. There is one motivating picture for introduction.
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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Messing around the web I’ve found many useful flashing tutorials but basically I started from this site: onyx.motronik.com.pl/mio/
Following the tutorial the biggest problem was that using the mentioned JTAG flasher the connection between PC and Mio was unstable. I thought that it resulted from the wrong connection of self-made connector with Mio board. Thus I decided to solder cables to the board (Originally I wanted to eliminate this possibility as much as possible. There is a big risk of tearing off the copper plates). To reduce the cable pulling forces to copper plates I made connection between plates and cables with short slices of very thin and so easily bendable solder tin (beware of short circuit caused by flexion of tin slices). Only connection to TCK copper plate that is the most critical for breakaway was made by needle contact. Result was the same as with home-made connector. I was “very happy” about it but I already knew that the problem was in JTAG. I added some pull-up resistors to JTAG flasher and then there was not any more problem with connection. See modified scheme below. Anyway I recommend to use some home-made connector to establish connection.
For flashing I have used modified SJF2440 utility which supports besides others also 512MB flash memories (K9F4G08). Here is link to download:
megaupload.com/?d=SK6LLMR2
Usage of SJF utility:
1. Install and start giveio drivers, make commands from located directory loaddrv install giveio and loaddrv start giveio
2. Run SJF2440 utility with flash filename parameter sjf2440 /f:BOOT.nb
3. There are only two possibilities Program Page and Program Block. First I have chosen Program Page (start from page 0, block 0), there is most important automatical start of erasement before programing of block 0.
4. Select Program Block (block 0)
5. Directly after reflashing bootloader turn Mio off, hold joystick down and turn it on. Hold the joystick until boot menu appears.
6. Make low level format from boot menu (memory can contain some error marked blocks and when you do not access boot menu directly after reflashing, second time after system recognition of these errors, access could be blocked and reflashing procedure must be repeated – this is only theory based on my “play” with flashing, actually without low level format it was not possible for me to access boot menu for the second time.).
7. Flash OS from SD card – First flash original wm5.0 – This will reflash whole memory (also original BL/os boot section again). File MioP550-Osc260AR05_P09.nb0 also could be flashed directly by JTAG but I didn’t try this possibility.
8. Optional. Flash wm6.1 (CrashOverHead version) using SD card. This reflashes only OS section of memory. When you flash this version directly after BL reflash, OS will not boot.
I wish you success with unbricking and the same amazing feelings of success which I had!
Note: This procedure can be used to reflash all other ARM devices based on Samsung S3C2440.. processor.
sksolarp said:
Around one year ago I bricked mine Mio P550m performing the same wrong flashing procedure as many people did here in the forum. I’ve flashed unofficial wm6.5 not using dnw flashing application but using flash memory card. After flashing with checksum errors and restarting, Mio was in error mode with all LEDs on without possibility to load into bootloader.
Recently I’ve decided to try to take corrective actions. Although I was not thoroughly convinced that I would succeed I overcame few difficulties and finally Mio was successfully repaired. There is one motivating picture for introduction.
View attachment 707678
Messing around the web I’ve found many useful flashing tutorials but basically I started from this site: onyx.motronik.com.pl/mio/
Following the tutorial the biggest problem was that using the mentioned JTAG flasher the connection between PC and Mio was unstable. I thought that it resulted from the wrong connection of self-made connector with Mio board. Thus I decided to solder cables to the board (Originally I wanted to eliminate this possibility as much as possible. There is a big risk of tearing off the copper plates). To reduce the cable pulling forces to copper plates I made connection between plates and cables with short slices of very thin and so easily bendable solder tin (beware of short circuit caused by flexion of tin slices). Only connection to TCK copper plate that is the most critical for breakaway was made by needle contact. Result was the same as with home-made connector. I was “very happy” about it but I already knew that the problem was in JTAG. I added some pull-up resistors to JTAG flasher and then there was not any more problem with connection. See modified scheme below. Anyway I recommend to use some home-made connector to establish connection.
View attachment 707681
View attachment 707679
View attachment 707680
For flashing I have used modified SJF2440 utility which supports besides others also 512MB flash memories (K9F4G08). Here is link to download:
megaupload.com/?d=SK6LLMR2
Usage of SJF utility:
1. Install and start giveio drivers, make commands from located directory loaddrv install giveio and loaddrv start giveio
2. Run SJF2440 utility with flash filename parameter sjf2440 /f:BOOT.nb
3. There are only two possibilities Program Page and Program Block. First I have chosen Program Page (start from page 0, block 0), there is most important automatical start of erasement before programing of block 0.
4. Select Program Block (block 0)
5. Directly after reflashing bootloader turn Mio off, hold joystick down and turn it on. Hold the joystick until boot menu appears.
6. Make low level format from boot menu (memory can contain some error marked blocks and when you do not access boot menu directly after reflashing, second time after system recognition of these errors, access could be blocked and reflashing procedure must be repeated – this is only theory based on my “play” with flashing, actually without low level format it was not possible for me to access boot menu for the second time.).
7. Flash OS from SD card – First flash original wm5.0 – This will reflash whole memory (also original BL/os boot section again). File MioP550-Osc260AR05_P09.nb0 also could be flashed directly by JTAG but I didn’t try this possibility.
8. Optional. Flash wm6.1 (CrashOverHead version) using SD card. This reflashes only OS section of memory. When you flash this version directly after BL reflash, OS will not boot.
I wish you success with unbricking and the same amazing feelings of success which I had!
Note: This procedure can be used to reflash all other ARM devices based on Samsung S3C2440.. processor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you , i have a mio p350 , can i use these procedure to unbrick my p350
is the same way?
Hello, yes of course you can use it. P350 is based on the same architecture. You will choose only different memory type in SJF2440 menu (I think K9F1G08). There also could be more possibilities for this memory type in menu (as Save Block To File – for example you can use it for saving content of Block 0 – bootloader section to file, Erase entire memory). When you also follow tutorial on site onyx.motronik.com.pl/mio/ you can’t make mistake.
Hi,
I don't know how to build the JTAG cable, there are some on e-bay, but I dont know if they are the same as this one.
Can anyone sell me one (you possibly don't need it anymore, as you unbricked it already)?
Thanks in advance...
I think in your situation the easiest and probably cheapest way could be let build up j-tag or maybe better let repair your mio following described procedure with somebody experienced. There are some delicious “arm watch handling needed”. Without previous experiences can easily happen your mio will be irreversible destroyed and you can regret money for repairment. For sure there are some guys in your neighborhood which can do it for you for an invitation to beer
I wish you good luck and let me know when you will succeed.
mio p550 bootloader
Witam,
First, I would like to thank you for a very helpfull post!
but I need some extra help (if possible), I did everything as per instructions fromnyx.motronik.com.pl/mio/
I build the Jtag, connected to mio and computer,run sjf2440j and everything went well until I got to the point where I had to program the "boot.bin" back to the nand flash.
The problem is that mine boot.bin is 124kb instead of 128kb, i tried several times to retrive it and every time was 124kb, I looked into it on Hex editor and in some parts of it it had all ff, but most was fine, so I went ahead and programed it back to mio, and now after restarting all the leds are on but nothing happens, can't go to bootloader (down arrow+reset) I tried up arrow+reset or power switch and nothing, before programming the boot.bin back to mio I had no leds lid-up exept the orange one when attached to ac charger or all of them for a brief second when pressed reset button.
I'm guessing that the boot.bin was not blocked but partially damaged!
Then I went searching on the net for a good boot.bin but I can't find it anywere there is lots of programs but everything comes down to geting into bootloader first.
So my bigest problem/question is how can I restore that booloader when mine is/was damaged? or where can I download a working one to program it back to mio with Jtag.
The person in the instructions had a good one but it was only blocked.
Sorry for the long post but I really need help on this one.
And thank you in advance, if you could help!
Hi, thanks for your reply.
I already asked everybody I know, and even asked in a few forums, but have found no one that would unbrick my baby even for a price...
HEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please...
link not working
or flashing I have used modified SJF2440 utility which supports besides others also 512MB flash memories (K9F4G08). Here is link to download:
megaupload.com/?d=SK6LLMR2
link not working
pleas re post the link
Yes link is not working Please any new link for it.
Thankyou.
Reupload link.
[CDMA][SPRINT][VZW]P100/P800 GTab Dev Platform AKA UnBrickable Mod && Resurrection
Introduction
I'm not kidding when I say UnBrickable. Modifying the OM pins means you can boot from USB, UART or MMC. This makes the device quite UNBRICKABLE. There is nothing you can do software wise to prevent the device from booting into this mode. We are communicating with the unrewritable, efused IROM on the processor. It's the thing that makes the system on a chip into a "system on a chip".I am here now to tell you how to turn your Samsung P1000 into a KIT-S5PC110 development board. The KIT-S5PC110 development board is the platform used to develop our phones. There are some differences between this mod and the official development platform. The S5PC110 has a removable internal SDCard and no touchscreen.
Why would you want to do this? When you plug in the battery and connect it to the computer in "off" mode, it will become an S5PC110 board awaiting download of a program to run. This occurs long before anything like software or firmware enters the processor. This is the IROM of the device awaiting commands or a power on signal.
How could it possibly be better then JTAG? Let's count the ways....
1. The only part required is a wire.
2. No shipping time.
3. No cost for a box to interface the computer.
4. Permanent.
5. Can be done as a preventive measure.
6. Gives the ability to test new Bootloaders temporarily.
7. Allows development of the entire system.
8. Removes worry about flashing and acts as a backup.
After performing this mod:
Remove the battery, replace the battery, your phone will connect to the computer via USB and await commands. Otherwise it will pretty much act like a P1000. See the Special Instructions section.
Part 1:Hardware Modification
You will need:
1. Get someone who knows what they're doing with a soldering iron. If they don't know what flux is, then they don't know what they're doing. You can send me a PM(or email my [email protected]) or Connexion2005(aka MobileTechVideos.com).
2. Soldering iron - make sure it's sharp, if it's not sharp, then sharpen it, flux it and retin it.
3. Flux
4. Solder
5. Tweezers
6. A relay (possibly- for the wire within to use as a bridge)
7. A #1 tri-blade driver
performing the modification:
1. tear apart your Galaxy Tab... Make sure to take out your SIM and external SDCard before you do this.
1. Remove the two(2) screw covers on the bottom of the unit. Remove two(2) #1 tri-blade screws
2. separate the top cover from the bottom cover
3. Remove eight(8) screws and four(4) connectors securing the board to the unit.
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
4. Remove four(4) screws securing the EMF shield to the board
5. Perform the mod as follows: remove the xOM5 resistor and jumper the non-grounded pad of xOM5 to the same side of xOM0 or xOM3.
6. *OPTIONALLY* hook up UART connections for kernel and/or bootloader debugging at the locations shown in the picture above
7. Reassemble the tab
Special Instructions
This replaces the battery charging sequence. The normal battery charging sequence can be activated by holding power for 4 seconds, then plugging in the device, or you can use an authentic Samsung Charging Cable for charging the battery
To turn on the device, and operate in normal mode, you must hold the power button for 5 seconds.
Part 2: Software Based Resurrection
You Must have UnBrickable Mod applied to your device. If you're not sure, run this tool under Linux: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1257434
This currently only works for Linux based computers or Windows based computers with proper drivers installed, with a Linux Virtual Machine, Get Ubuntu here: http://www.ubuntu.com , Get Virtualbox Here: http://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads
You must have Java installed on your computer: http://www.java.com/en/download/
The entire software resurrection can be summed up like this
Here is a Galaxy Tab specific video
Unbricking:
1. Apply UnBrickable Mod to your device: see Hardware Modification section
2. Run The Ultimate UnBrickable Resurrector. You can find the Resurrector here in our SVN repository http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
When you see this image you are in S5PC110 SEC SoC mode. When you see this mode you must proceed to step 3.
If it will only show this image, then you have not performed the modification correctly, or you have a hardware problem.
If it shows this, regardless of what's on your screen, you're in download mode:
3. Click the Download Mode button (then click the one next to it). I find it's easiest to click Download Mode, type a password, plug in the device, then press enter.
4. Run Heimdall One-Click to flash firmware on your device.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1341666
5. repeat steps 2 and 3 with bootloader flashing enabled (Heimdall One-Click has a safety mechanism which requires you to flash once before flashing bootloaders).
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software.
reading material
Creating your own Samsung Bootloaders: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1233273
KIT-S5PC110 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?94krzvvxksvmuxh
how to use DNW: http://tinyurl.com/dnw-how-to
Flash using openOCD and DNW: http://www.arm9board.net/wiki/index.php?title=Flash_using_OpenOCD_and_DNW
another DNW example: http://www.boardset.com/products/mv6410.php
ODroid dev center: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
drivers and utilities
This will be an ever expanding list
Linux Automated UnBricker:http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
Windows Drivers http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678937&d=1312590673
Windows Download Tool DNW: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678938&d=1312590673
Windows Command Line tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=17202523&postcount=27
Linux DNW Utility: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
Linux ModeDetect tool: http://code.google.com/p/hummingbird-hibl/downloads/list
firmware
Bootloader Hello World by Rebellos http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=698077&d=1314105521
UnBrick tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1242466
You got it working... Great work.
Could you perhaps expand a little more? Such as stating things to avoid to prevent it from bricking? For instance before this mod should a power failure occur when flashing via ODIN = brick. Once this mod is performed. Are there any similar issues?
Wow! very interesting. Makes me want to find a bricked tab.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
Awesome job Adam!!! Glad to see the Tab get some unbrickable love!
^^ Thanks
lambstone said:
You got it working... Great work.
Could you perhaps expand a little more? Such as stating things to avoid to prevent it from bricking? For instance before this mod should a power failure occur when flashing via ODIN = brick. Once this mod is performed. Are there any similar issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need to worry about it. Before your device even starts up, the first thing it does is go into UnBrickable Debug mode and you can boot it into Download Mode from USB. There is no need to worry about anything at all after this. No known firmware can harm your device. You can flash Bada, WP7, just about any bootloader you want, see if it bricks your device... If it does, then just flash back.
If you want, you can flash a Justin Beiber MP3 as a Secondary Bootloader and a LOLCat as a primitive bootloader... You can still recover your device. Just pull the battery out, insert the battery, plug into USB on the computer and click the download mode button.
I am very tempted to do the mod just because I can. Much easier than doing it to my Epic (since I need a working phone) which Adam had added to the list of unbrickables as well
Once again great job on all the unbrickables on the list!
this mod also works on SCH-i800
AdamOutler said:
this mod also works on SCH-i800
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Adam what about the SPH-P100 SPRINT CDMA model? If it does would it be possible to flash the gsm model version firmware and software onto it? I do not have a sprint account and will not be so I only use it via wifi. Thanks
Sent From My KickAss ATT SGS2 SPORTING CM7
RockRatt said:
Adam what about the SPH-P100 SPRINT CDMA model? If it does would it be possible to flash the gsm model version firmware and software onto it? I do not have a sprint account and will not be so I only use it via wifi. Thanks
Sent From My KickAss ATT SGS2 SPORTING CM7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes' but I had problems with the modem, so I did not include it. Check the modem thread for modems.
I just did this mod on my hard bricked vzw galaxy tab, and it saved the hard bricked paper weight to a fully functional tab again. This is definatly a must have mod..
Wondering whether this mod is able to fix a broken/messed up Cache partition ? Thanks
Bro is This method work with GSM galaxy Tab P1000
i hope this work coz i have one in hand when connect to PC show SEC S5PC110 TEST B/d
is that will work in my case ??
ahmed49850006 said:
Bro is This method work with GSM galaxy Tab P1000
i hope this work coz i have one in hand when connect to PC show SEC S5PC110 TEST B/d
is that will work in my case ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I started another thread for P1000 I think. You will need the UnBrickable resurrector and a firmware to flash.
Hi AdamOutler!
I just wanna say thank you, really. I just can't believe my galaxy tab verizon cdma sch-i800 is back and running again.
My hard brick came after i uploaded a wrong bootloader. I thought that i would never see it running again but you made me wrong. So thanks for that again.
I've followed every step you said and now it works.
It was not easy for me though, since i didn't (don't) have soldering skills.
Just for the record, and maybe to help someone else, in my case i've removed the xOM5 resistor and used a wire to make a link with the xOM0 resistor. After making the link between the resistors i've used a tape to keep them together.
Yes, i've used a tape, it's too damn small to use a solder. I know it is not the best option but i reassembled it back and works perfectly now. Ready to try new firmwares again =).
THANK YOU
@AdamOutler Can I apply the mod after a hardbrick has occured? I'm thinking of using the unbrickable mod as a repair method instead of a preventive method as I don't think there is any chance I would hardbrick my tab anytime soon but just in case...
So, this morning at 5am (yes, stupid time to be playing) I flashed a zip. I have stored on my phone zips for both this and my tablet, and guess what genius did? flashed the wrong friggin one! Very surprised it went through without fault, but hey, **** happens.
So, basically what happened, is my phone became a brick. Black screen, could not boot it up, couldn't et to bootloader or download mode or recovery, tried several things like pulling battery for 30 secs then putting back in, plugging into PC without battery and putting battery in, leaving without battery or SIM for 30 minutes and putting back in, NA friggin DA. Still a brick. Not even the vibration when it first kicks in. Nothing
Starting to think time to call tech support, but as I was trying to plug into PC, I noticed something trying to install, then disappearing real fast. That was my first clue. I opened device manager, plugged phone in, and watched what was happening. A device called OMAP4460 was trying to install for half a second before disappearing, failing, but still, it was something. Even though screen was still blank, and not even bootloader would come up, this was happening. So I googled.
I found this site/thread: http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f63...-i9100g-via-usb-cable-freeeeeeeeeeee-1465412/. Legija, is a friggin genius Downloaded and unzipped the package, ran the bat, and plugged in the phone. But alas, still no joy
Reread his post - install drivers first...So, putting on my tech hat, how to install drivers if device is not listed, I went into the Actions menu in Task Manager (Win 7), and selected to add legacy hardware. I then chose to install manually, then selected have disk, and browsed to the drivers in the zip package from Legija (all this without device plugged in BTW). I installed the OMAP flash driver successfully, and now showing in task manager with the nice yellow triangle/exclamation mark.
Ran the bat file again, plugged phone in **WITHOUT** battery in phone, and off it went scrolling through it's processes, ninja'n away my f'up. When it completed, put battery back in, held down power, and up she came! Woot! Got back into OS no issues, and I'm one very happy camper.
So I thought i'd share, not thinking anyone else may do the same bloody stupid thing, but maybe a variance, or just have the same symptom (black screen, attempt to install OMAP when plugged into USB), this may just help you! AS for me...deleted all files not for GNEX, i'll continue to stuff around before work, so this is safe
EDIT:
1. Download the zip file from http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f63...-i9100g-via-usb-cable-freeeeeeeeeeee-1465412/, created by Legija
2. Extract zip to whatever location you're comfortable with (I used Android directory)
3. Open up Device Manager (Hold down Windows Key, press R, the type in devmgmt.msc and press OK)
4. Go to actions menu, select Add Legacy Hardware
5. Choose install manually, then have disk. Browse to where you extracted the zip, select the 'inf' file in usb_drv_windows
6. Choose OMAP, you'll get a popup if on Win 7, continue anyway (driver not signed)
7. Once completed with driver, pull battery out of phone, then plug it into USB
8. Double click omap4460_tuna_hs_pro.bat to start the process. Once you see "Press any key to continue..." close the CMD window and proceed to step 9
9. Unplug from USB, put battery back in, and power-up!
10. Extra step - depending on what's been done, it may 'brick' again - suggest to do a restore or a wipe reinstall afterwards to be certain (mine bricked again next reboot)
Thanks for sharing this find, I'm sure others will find this to be useful
No problem, true believer in sharing my stupid mistakes so other may not follow, or if they do, know how to fix
Oh, in my write up - one change now edited - run the bat with the phone connected to USB **WITHOUT** battery in, once it's finished insert and boot up
Next time I'll be more safe while flashing roms to my phone.
Great find.
wow, this is possible? i thought cwm will prevent you from flashing wrong zips and even if not, why would it kill the bootloader? i was under the impression gnex is close to unbrickable but this topic you linked opened a whole can of worms for me, whats with all these hundreds of people who hard(!)bricked their nexus ... did i miss something?
This was a custom zip I had created myself to do some things on my tab, it ran from install script an install.sh that then went and installed a recovery img. Pretty sure i've never seen this before from any install zip, it was the behaviour I put in mine that allowed it to go through, and I hadn't put into the script to stop if not correct device - lesson learned
BUT - that said, you can do things like this to your phone running scripts, very easy to actually if it's running from su... So never run scripts unless you trust he person whose created it (or have written it yourself and certain of it), know it's definitely for your device, and, most importantly - never miss this step - have had 3 cups of coffee first :good:
Nice find OP, but honestly, how people manage to hard brick a Galaxy Nexus is beyond me.
Though, I am glad you learned from this and actually USED Google to search beforehand. ^^
Theshawty said:
Nice find OP, but honestly, how people manage to hard brick a Galaxy Nexus is beyond me.
Though, I am glad you learned from this and actually USED Google to search beforehand. ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL - easy thing to do if you're screwing with stuff before you're awake, especially scripts. Anything running under superuser can do this effectively, especially scripts working in /dev/block/... All it takes is one FAIL and you're bricked - the question then becomes is it permanent or not! And I always google before I ask questions, otherwise i'd lose my right to abuse others who don't!!! :angel:
rekrapg said:
LOL - easy thing to do if you're screwing with stuff before you're awake, especially scripts. Anything running under superuser can do this effectively, especially scripts working in /dev/block/... All it takes is one FAIL and you're bricked - the question then becomes is it permanent or not! And I always google before I ask questions, otherwise i'd lose my right to abuse others who don't!!! :angel:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not permanent, it's not, and never was, a brick.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
efrant said:
If it's not permanent, it's not, and never was, a brick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True - but in how many cases would the above be considered a brick?
If I wasn't such a stubborn son of a *****, I would have just called it a brick after the standard revive tricks failed
Theshawty said:
Nice find OP, but honestly, how people manage to hard brick a Galaxy Nexus is beyond me.
Though, I am glad you learned from this and actually USED Google to search beforehand. ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it happens my dude.....at least he took the time out to give a guide and explained how he fixed it just in case someone else does something similar
---------- Post added at 08:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 AM ----------
efrant said:
If it's not permanent, it's not, and never was, a brick.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True....but most people would not know what to do in this situation and call it a day....at least he searched Google and fixed his problem. Wish more people were like him ya know
---------- Post added at 09:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 AM ----------
rekrapg said:
True - but in how many cases would the above be considered a brick?
If I wasn't such a stubborn son of a *****, I would have just called it a brick after the standard revive tricks failed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly I said most people would have called it a day.....ZOMGZ MA FONEZ NO LITE UPZ IT HARDSOFT BRICKED!! .....lol all joking aside man your like me I wouldn't have stopped until I was absolutely sure I needed them JTAG boys
Persistence pays off...remember that
Yup. In most cases, there's a way around a problem, you just have to dig until you find it
Congratulations
Saludos desde Ecuador
Though I don't want to have chance to perform your provided method, it's really good to know, in case....
Congratulation and thanks!
rekrapg said:
5. Choose install manually, then have disk. Browse to where you extracted the zip, select the 'inf' file in usb_drv_windows
6. Choose OMAP, you'll get a popup if on Win 7, continue anyway (driver not signed)
7. Once completed with driver, pull battery out of phone, then plug it into USB
8. Double click omap4460_tuna_hs_pro.bat to start the process
9. Once completed, unplug from USB, put battery back in, and power-up!
10. Extra step - depending on what's been done, it may 'brick' again - suggest to do a restore or a wipe reinstall afterwards to be certain (mine bricked again next reboot)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In step 6 you say choose omap, but which one? omap flash drive? omap p4460? also i cant install any of those it says it is not signed and it wont install, i tried booting in safe mode and no luck, i tried using the 'bcdedit /set nointegritychecks ON" , rebooted, no luck either
My galaxy nexus is not exactly bricked but i cant get into bootloader, recovery or fastboot , do you think this method could be useful to me?
Chad_Petree said:
In step 6 you say choose omap, but which one? omap flash drive? omap p4460? also i cant install any of those it says it is not signed and it wont install, i tried booting in safe mode and no luck, i tried using the 'bcdedit /set nointegritychecks ON" , rebooted, no luck either
My galaxy nexus is not exactly bricked but i cant get into bootloader, recovery or fastboot , do you think this method could be useful to me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Choose the one closest to what displays on the device manager. I started with the OMAP Flash Drive one and it worked for me, but you can always choose the 'update driver' option and install another if required. Turn off User Account Control in Control Panel/Users and make sure you're on an admin account, as it may by default block the ability to install unsigned drivers, to be honest not sure on that one as it's always been first port of call for me on Win 7 (and Vista).
I also found this that might help: http://www.techspot.com/community/t...signed-drivers-in-windows-vista-7-x64.127187/
Wish I would have found this a week ago! The exact same thing happened to me, except I had been running a working JB ROM for a day or so.
Went jogging, was listening to music, came home, music stopped, screen wouldn't turn on with power button or USB cable with a charger or a computer, but there was a notification LED flashing. No amount of pressing and holding the power button would bring it back to life, so I pulled the battery. After that it was in the exact state your GNEX was in. Not even the vibrate when trying to power it up. After a few hours of charging and trying all sorts of things to breathe life into it (including a battery swap) I ended up returning it to the brick and mortar VZW store and they replaced it because I was under 2 weeks with the phone.
Thanks for posting!
I ran the OMAPFLASH_tuna on my GNex and now, I seem to be stuck at "Sending Data"(SEE last line in the image attached)
The values of 131072 has been like that for over 20 minutes and have not changed. What data is it sending and to who or where?
to those who've used this too, What should happen after this?
thanks...
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I would be lying if I said I knew exactly what this wonderful tool is doing mate With mine, it ran through in like 30 seconds to completion. I ran it 3 times to be sure! I have 2 suggestions,
1. Sign up to those forums and ask the expert
2. If your device is already 'bricked', it may be worth just disconnecting, closing the CMD window, reconnect and re-run it.
I'm no expert on this application though, I simply found it, it worked for me, so I shared. So option 1 may be your best shot. It's quite likely the bloke who created the tool will be able to let you know the proper path to go down.
EDIT: I am at work atm, so I can't 're-run' it on my device to show you the screen - but I recall it comes up with a 'press any key to continue' prompt after completion (pressing any key just re-runs it).
Funny because another person on GSMHosting is experiencing the same problem and says that his just stops downloading... Just like mines and at the same stop too... hummm...
JIAYU G2S
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The Jiayu G2S was released on January 1, 2013. It was a significant upgrade to the G2 with a lot of hardware changes. For the price, it had an impressive list of specifications:
MTK MT6577T ARMv7 Cortex-A9 Dual-core 1.2GHz processor
GPU: PowerVR SGX531
4 inch QHD IPS screen, 960x540 pixel display, OGS (One Glass Screen)
Dual SIM cards supporting GSM 850/900/1800/1900mhz & WCDMA 3G 2100mhz network (only one 3G slot)
1GB RAM / 4GB ROM
Supports up to 32gb class 12 microSD card (TF card)
8MP rear camera, 2MP front camera
Supports WiFi a/b/g & WiFi hotspot, Bluetooth with EDR & A2DP, GPS & AGPS
Android 4.1 OS (Jelly Bean), multi-language
FM Radio
Gravity Sensor, Proximity Sensor, Light Sensor, Magnetic Sensor, Gyroscopic Sensor
2200mah battery
Size: 125 x 61x 9.9mm
Weight: 145g with battery
Overall, I really like the look and feel of the phone. Except for the ear speaker hole, the front is one solid piece of glass, wrapped around with a very solid metal frame. The metal frame is not just a thin piece of sheet metal, but is cast metal, provides for complete rigidity for the whole phone, and should do a good job of protecting that large piece of screen glass. This also means that the phone has a bit of weight, but that feels good in my hand. Additionally, I like the more rectangular design of the phone and the more square edge down the sides that the flat metal frame provides. It is very easy to hold onto.
Call quality is very good for me. Reception seems on par with other phones I've used. The wifi might be a bit weaker than my Huawei G300, but it is fine. The screen is very nice to look at and very sensitive, but you should read below about the "jump screen" problem. You should also read below about potential problems with GPS connection issues. I've now owned two of these phones. The first had the jump screen problem, and was replaced under warranty. The replacement has terrible GPS pickup, but no jump screen problem.
The large battery means that I have no problem getting through a day of use, and I probably could use it for two days without a charge most of the time. (But I do not use the phone for gaming.) The phone runs most of the time at 1001mhz or 250mhz when on, and will only jump to 1200mhz in extreme conditions. "Deep sleep" mode is for when the screen is off, but the phone will run at 1001mhz when charging no matter if it is on and being used or not. That is an issue for phones based on this MTK chipset and not exclusive to the JY G2S.
Jiayu includes a few apps targeting the Chinese market for this phone, but other than that, the OS is mostly "vanilla" Android Jelly Bean (AOSP). The phone comes already rooted, so freezing or deleting unwanted apps is a simple solution for what you don't want. There are a number of modified roms available already, including the Lewa rom (http://www.needrom.com/phone-roms/jiayu/g2s/). But you should note that later hardware versions of this phone have different components. You should make a note of what the rom version is that came installed on your phone so that you know what hardware version you are using.
"Jump Screen" Problem Solved?:
Many of the first batch of phones were plagued with screen problems. Commonly referred to as the "jump screen" problem, the result is that when scrolling through screens of data, the screen just "jumps" to a different location without any apparent reason. The screen also "quivers" when touching it, even if you aren't moving your finger. Jiayu promptly acknowledged the problem and tried to correct it with a quick ROM update released on January 9, 2013. (The build number of the ROM is: G2S 20130108-104044.) This ROM update did seem to work for some, but for others the problem persisted.
At this point, I personally don't know if the problem has been completely solved in the manufacturing of subsequent batches of the phone. My phone had the problem, and flashing the new ROM did not solve it. I returned the phone for replacement under warranty and did receive a replacement phone that does not have the problem. So whether or not there still is a manufacturing problem, Jiayu can replace the phone with one that works. However, see below for the GPS connection problem that I now have.
GPS Connection Problems:
There are also a number of users here who are reporting difficulty with weak GPS fix. My GPS fix on my first phone was excellent, but my replacement phone is not good at all. It has been suggested to install "Faster GPS" from the Play Store, which will let you set your location. Also, you can look at this post from later in this thread for more information: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39975417&postcount=209. (Please post any solutions you discover in this thread.)
ROM Flashing:
One of my initial struggles was getting the official rom flashing tool to work. I finally got things going, and I hope I can help others who "just don't get it". So if you want some detailed instructions in English for how to flashing a new official ROM onto the Jiayu G2S, have a look at the second post. (If you are flashing a third-party rom, follow the rom builder's instructions.)
ClockworkMod Recovery:
"Thingbreaker" has provided us with a working CWM Recovery. Here's his post link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=37521066&postcount=28
There are two ways to flash the CWM Recovery image: using the ROM flashing tool (harder) or using Mobileuncle Tools (easier).
To use Mobileuncle Tools, install it from the Play Store (free). Copy the CWM Recovery image file to the root of your SD card, making sure there are no spaces in the filename. Run Mobileuncle Tools and choose Recovery Update. Choose the recovery image file that Thingbreaker provided.
To use the ROM flashing tool, you first you need to understand how to flash a complete rom as explained in the second post of this thread directly below. After you know how to do that, then look at this post to learn what is different about only flashing the recovery image: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=37499848&postcount=23
Conclusion:
I do not recommend purchasing this phone. Period. Until Jiayu can do a better job of quality control, I don't recommend their products. There are other companies out there who's phones are only slightly more expensive, but who have a much better reputation for quality control.
Jiayu, if you are reading this, you need to do better! And you really need to improve your repair department as well. Sending me a replacement phone with a GPS problem causes me to wonder if you are using the "shuffle" method of passing around bad phones instead of repairing them. I'm NOT a satisfied customer.
“Unofficial” Guide to Flashing the Official Jiayu G2S ROM
Disclaimer: I’m just one guy who got this to work after a lot of trial and error. I’m only telling you how I did it. I don’t claim it will work for you. I don’t guarantee you won’t brick your phone by following these instructions. And you should understand that if you don’t bother to read carefully and do exactly what I say, you really can brick your phone. Also, it seems there has been an upgrade to some of the components in later versions of the phone released in March 2013, and you will want to verify which version of the phone you have before installing any roms. You should be able to check the rom build information for the date on your particular phone. This guide only describes how to flash the official rom from Jiayu for the G2S. If you intend to install some other third-party rom, please follow that rom builder's instructions.
Pre-requisites:
You need a PC running Microsoft Windows 2000 or higher.
If you haven’t previously installed msxml 6.0 and .net Framework 4.0 or higher on you Windows PC, do so first. Get them directly from Microsoft. (I assume you know how to search.)
Download the following:
Latest Jiayu G2S ROM update; the rom I installed was the G2s_20130109-104044 stock rom: http://pan.baidu.com/share/link?shareid=157669&uk=839171988 (Note: the build number of the ROM after installation is: G2S 20130108-104044; don't be confused by the name of the file.) Use Google Translate if you need to see which button to push to start the download. Also note that there is a newer official rom for newer versions of the phone. The rom date is 20130306. I don't know what happens if you install the newer version on an older phone.
This zip file contains the Android USB driver, VCom drivers, SP Flash Tool, and a document of these instructions (ReadMe.doc): http://www.mediafire.com/?tc4q3wy5eabowhf
Unzip the files you downloaded and move/copy folders and files where they need to go:
Within the rom zip that you downloaded from the Baidu website, you can find the \G2s_20130109-104044 sub-folder. This folder contains the actual rom files (14 files). Move this entire folder onto your desktop. The reason for doing this is that there are folders within the zip file whose names contain characters that your version of Windows might not be able to read, even if you can see them in Windows Explorer (the filemanager). This will cause you trouble when you try to flash the rom.
After unzipping the driver and flash tool zip file, you will find the \USB-VCOM-Drivers folder with \INF and \SYS sub-folders. In the \INF folder there are three other sub-folders: \ 2K_XP_COM, \Vista, and \Win7.
Copy the \INF\cdc-acm.inf file into your C:\Windows\inf folder. (You may have to give permission to do this.)
Based on your version of Windows (2K-XP, Vista, Win7, 32-bit or 64-bit), locate the one correct usb2ser_????.inf file and copy it to your C:\Windows\inf folder. (You may have to give permission to do this.)
Copy both the \SYS\androidusb.sys and \SYS\usbser.sys into your C:\Windows\System32\driver folder. (You may have to give permission to do this.)
Install the drivers:
Plug your phone into your computer with a USB cable. If you had not previously installed the drivers, the system will start trying to install them.
If the system asks you to choose to install the drivers, click on “install the software automatically” and proceed.
If system is unsuccessful in locating and installing the drivers, you can try to go back and locate the drivers yourself by pointing to the individual files, but this should not happen if you properly copied the drivers over to your C:\Windows system folders.
BACKUP YOUR DATA NOW!
Proceeding beyond this point is going to mean that EVERYTHING on you phone is going to be deleted and a new system will replace it.
You have been warned!
Warning!
Attempting to install a rom that does not use the correct “scatter” file (see description below) will brick your phone. Don’t do it. If you aren’t sure a rom is made for your phone, don’t attempt to install it.
Install the updated ROM:
1. Turn off your phone, open the back, and remove the battery.
2. Plug your USB cable into your PC and phone. If your PC attempts to install drivers, let it finish.
3. Unplug your phone from the cable.
4. Start the SP Flash Tool program by clicking on the Flash_tool.exe file. If you get a security warning, allow it to run.
5. Click on the “Scatter-loading” button on the right side.
6. Browse to your \Desktop\G2s_20130109-104044 folder and choose the MT6577_Android_scatter_emmc.txt file. All other files will be chosen automatically.
7. Click on the “Firmware -> Upgrade” button.
8. Plug your USB cable firmly into the phone. The Flash Tool will automatically start flashing your new rom. Wait for it to finish and show you the green circle.
9. Unplug your phone from the cable.
Rebooting the phone:
1. Install your battery.
2. Very carefully, without touching the screen, push the power button.
3. Do not touch the phone as it boots!
4. After it has completed booting, you may again use your phone normally.
Following the advice that it might help if the phone is very cold when updating to the new rom, I tried putting it in the refrigerator. Unfortunately, that did not seem to help in my case. The phone still has the "jump screen" problem.
Of course, any other ideas would be appreciated as well.
Has anyone yet been successful in creating a Recovery mod (i.e. ClockworkMod Recovery)?
Tell Me Some Unofficial Way Of Hacking Based On Geograohical Location
Any Jealousy people Tell Me Some Unofficial Way Of Hacking Based On Geographical Location.
twrock: Make sure you do not have screen protector applied and you do not touch the screen during the first boot after flashing.
Thanks for the advice. But I'm not using a screen protector, and I am being very careful about not touching the phone. Nothing seems to help.
Sent from my G2S using xda app-developers app
Have you identified production date of your phone? Is there a sticker anywhere? We might come to a conclusion later on, of which date onward the factory has solved the problem... It might be a hardware problem after all.
Still waiting for mine to arrive...
hi there, for those who already have in their hands the g2s is it possible to give more reviews about its gps and the camera especially at night? thanks
Hi.
I have just created a ClockWorkMod recovery image for the Jiayu G2S.
I don't have the phone yet, it is still on its way, so I can't guarantee that it will work.
Download: http://db.tt/vFO4S6Mc
When flashing this recovery, use the same scatter file as for the stock rom.
If you don't have the scatter file here it is: http://db.tt/Z4TWPowQ
Please try it at your own risk, and give me feedback.
I received mine today. I am stunned. This thing is amazing. After all the HTC's I have this is a dream.
Mine doesn't seem to have the screen problem, but has the 20130108 firmware. I will wait a couple of days and see how it's running and the flash it.
CWM for this would be amazing and unabridged CyanogenMod would be even greater. Wonderful times!!!
fcsabika said:
Hi.
I have just created a ClockWorkMod recovery image for the Jiayu G2S.
I don't have the phone yet, it is still on its way, so I can't guarantee that it will work.
Download: http://db.tt/vFO4S6Mc
When flashing this recovery, use the same scatter file as for the stock rom.
If you don't have the scatter file here it is: http://db.tt/Z4TWPowQ
Please try it at your own risk, and give me feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give it a try.
What method did you use to create it? Did you use Koush's "builder"?
I also tried to make a CWM Recovery using the builder. The builder said it was successful, but the resulting CW recovery would not boot.
I'll let you know when I have the time to try it. Thanks.
Anyone know how to get rid of the Google search bar at the top of the standard Launcher? I'd guess that Google doesn't want us to be able to get rid of it.
sdssss said:
hi there, for those who already have in their hands the g2s is it possible to give more reviews about its gps and the camera especially at night? thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if my experience is much help. I live in Taiwan, so I suspect my GPS satellite locks were about the same as they would be in China. So for what it's worth....
My first GPS use locked in less than two minutes. I was outside in a parking lot on a clear day when I started. I got into the car after about 30 seconds and put the phone on the dashboard. It was locked in before the screen shut off (which is set at 2 minutes). I did not have Wifi connected, so no help from that. Subsequent to that first use, locking in took less than 15 seconds.
I haven't taken any pictures at night, so I can't help you there.
I'll mention here that if I decided to order this phone today, I'd find a way to get it straight from Jiayu. I ordered mine from Etotalk.com (and wasted money on their "Etotalk mod rom"), and they aren't being very helpful with aftersales follow up. I finally gave up on them and am now talking straight to Jiayu support. But I have to wait until after Chinese New Year to send it back. They said that they would not be able to replace the phone until after Chinese New Year anyway, so sending it back now would only mean I would be without the phone longer.
hello, i'm G2S first batch too, what do you mean about shaking problem? is it shake hard ? i got the problem while charging the phone, but if it's unplug, it's seems to be normal.
i'll try the new firmware from this thread, thanks for the link :laugh:
by the way, i've ported the CWM recovery for G2S, i'll upload it if you need it
For those who already have the phone, is the signal strong even if you are inside buildings?
I'm asking this because many users report that jiayu g3's signal is very week when you get indoor, and i'd like to know if it was corrected in this version.
sempracurtir said:
For those who already have the phone, is the signal strong even if you are inside buildings?
I'm asking this because many users report that jiayu g3's signal is very week when you get indoor, and i'd like to know if it was corrected in this version.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my phone is work normally even inside the buildings it depends on the network carrier, except you're in the basement
by the way, i've flashed the newest firmware from the page1, and the "jumpscreen" error while charging is now fixed. More stable touchscreen, thanks man :laugh:
Gps
fix ok, but not accurate.
The worst gps that I have had.
Solutions?
Hello
verbal
twrock said:
I'll give it a try.
What method did you use to create it? Did you use Koush's "builder"?
I also tried to make a CWM Recovery using the builder. The builder said it was successful, but the resulting CW recovery would not boot.
I'll let you know when I have the time to try it. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have used the builder.
So did anyone try my CWM recovery?
fcsabika said:
Yes I have used the builder.
So did anyone try my CWM recovery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, how can I install it?
I read your post yesterday but I didn't understand.
Can you explain me better?
Thanks.
lelepanz said:
Sorry, how can I install it?
I read your post yesterday but I didn't understand.
Can you explain me better?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can install it the same way as the official rom.
See the second post by twrock.
I am new to the android programming world. I own an iQR70 device from MLS that is using -if I read well- the kiosk mode for its own application called MAIC (something like Amazon's Alexa virtual assistant).
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The real pain with this device is that the application is buggy does not get any updates and overall does not work properly.
So, my questions are, a) is there any way to disable the kiosk mode and work with it as a normal tablet? or desperately b) Can I install a compatible firmware? I don't care for the data inside.
You can check for update. Look for android version of tablet. You can check their site for any upgrade of software.
You can flash other firmware. Find compatible firmware as per your model.
You can disable apps same as you do on android mobile.
My tablet currently Is dead boot and I am trying to find the test points. Anyway, I have no access to the android os to disable apps. The virtual assistant is the only app I can use, all others are forbidden.
Hi sdancer,
I got the same device and it's stuck in bootloop as well, after I experimented a bit too much. Stock recovery ist not working (when I select it in the boot menu it just reboots again), I can only get into Fastboot mode, but the PC won't recognize the device at all, because I guess I don't have the necessary drivers, USB connection never worked.
Did you manage to get it back on? And does your PC recognize your device?
zeetotheuno said:
Hi sdancer,
I got the same device and it's stuck in bootloop as well, after I experimented a bit too much. Stock recovery ist not working (when I select it in the boot menu it just reboots again), I can only get into Fastboot mode, but the PC won't recognize the device at all, because I guess I don't have the necessary drivers, USB connection never worked.
Did you manage to get it back on? And does your PC recognize your device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you send commands under fastboot from your pc; if the drivers are the problem then try to fix them. In my case I deleted the Preload partition so I can not even power up the device. The only solution in my case, is the hardware reset using kolo connection pin shorted with ground and immediately flash from a stock Rom or a previously saved backup. I didn't find time to try it yet.
sdancer said:
Can you send commands under fastboot from your pc; if the drivers are the problem then try to fix them. In my case I deleted the Preload partition so I can not even power up the device. The only solution in my case, is the hardware reset using kolo connection pin shorted with ground and immediately flash from a stock Rom or a previously saved backup. I didn't find time to try it yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I can't send any commands, unfortunately. I can't finx the drivers either, because I never had them. The MTK drivers I installed did never work. I could never connect it to the PC before, because it was never recognized. Did your PC recognize device at all? Or does it recognize the other one you have, which is working?
I opened MAIC and tried to find the test spot, but there is really NOTHING written on the spots (No GND, no Kcolo, just nothing at all). I tried connecting some of the spots, but it didn't work.
If you try it and find out, would you be so kind to share?
By the way, I was able to get into the developer options by chance. When you press the small sun (swipe down on the main screen, and tap on the small sun on the right side, where you set the display brightness, several times)
Usually a prompt will pop up and ask for a password (which I couldn't find anywhere, not even their support would tell me)
But I was lucky once and got into these settings when there was some kind of bug in one of the previous versions. But I couldn't flash anything onto it, because as I said, my computer wouldn't recognize the device.
zeetotheuno said:
No, I can't send any commands, unfortunately. I can't finx the drivers either, because I never had them. The MTK drivers I installed did never work. I could never connect it to the PC before, because it was never recognized. Did your PC recognize device at all? Or does it recognize the other one you have, which is working?
I opened MAIC and tried to find the test spot, but there is really NOTHING written on the spots (No GND, no Kcolo, just nothing at all). I tried connecting some of the spots, but it didn't work.
If you try it and find out, would you be so kind to share?
By the way, I was able to get into the developer options by chance. When you press the small sun (swipe down on the main screen, and tap on the small sun on the right side, where you set the display brightness, several times)
Usually a prompt will pop up and ask for a password (which I couldn't find anywhere, not even their support would tell me)
But I was lucky once and got into these settings when there was some kind of bug in one of the previous versions. But I couldn't flash anything onto it, because as I said, my computer wouldn't recognize the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, the developer mode is very essential to use the adb (Android debug bridge) and finally disable the kiosk mode. Can you explain how to enable it, because I am not sure if understand well.
My device is dead boot, does not power up currently, but I have another one that works. Before that, yes it connected with my windows, that's how I flashed it and finally bricked it. I have the drivers and they works just fine. In you case you don't have dead boot device, cos you can power it on and use fast boot.
So you don't need hardware reset. Just fix the drivers, if you need them, I can send them to you.
PCB does not have any indication of kolo pin joint. I didn't find anything either, but I am gonna use the mediatek pinout diagram I found, and proceed with test & trial method.
sdancer said:
Hi, the developer mode is very essential to use the adb (Android debug bridge) and finally disable the kiosk mode. Can you explain how to enable it, because I am not sure if understand well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, basically just try this, (for the one that still works):
- You just let it boot normally until you see the MAIC woman on the main screen.
- Swipe down from the top of the screen, so you can get to this menu, you know, where you can access "Home", "Music", "Video Call" etc.
- You will see the brightness adjustment bar with a big sun and a small sun. Tap the sun on the right side of the bar about 9 times
- Now you'll see a message pop up, which asks you for a password
And this is where I got stuck for a long time. And usually you can't get past this point I guess.
But one day, when they updated the software to V 4.01 I just could access the developer options and enable ADB and stuff. I have no idea how that worked, it must have been a bug within the version. After another update of the MAIC software (V 4.02), I couldn't access it anymore either.
Maybe you're lucky and you'll be able to get into it too, if you didn't install the latest update yet.
What I did was, I installed a launcher (I was able to use the devices browser and access the apk) and then I could switch between Kiosk mode and the "normal" android display. If you could manage to install any launcher (I used Evie Launcher and it worked great) you can use it like a tablet (it's slow as hell, though).
sdancer said:
My device is dead boot, does not power up currently, but I have another one that works. Before that, yes it connected with my windows, that's how I flashed it and finally bricked it. I have the drivers and they works just fine. In you case you don't have dead boot device, cos you can power it on and use fast boot.
So you don't need hardware reset. Just fix the drivers, if you need them, I can send them to you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be soooo great, if you could share the drivers! It would help me a lot. Because like you, I would try flashing a stock ROM, too, and maybe we'll find a way to enable ADB with a modified ROM.
sdancer said:
PCB does not have any indication of kolo pin joint. I didn't find anything either, but I am gonna use the mediatek pinout diagram I found, and proceed with test & trial method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, let me know, if you find something! I gave up already, because I really didn't find the right spots. On the small PCB on the left, if you unscrew it and turn it around, there are several more gold points, btw. Maybe you'll find something there. And on the small board (where the Buttons for Power, Volume + and Volume - are located) there are some golden points too.
zeetotheuno said:
Well, basically just try this, (for the one that still works):
- You just let it boot normally until you see the MAIC woman on the main screen.
- Swipe down from the top of the screen, so you can get to this menu, you know, where you can access "Home", "Music", "Video Call" etc.
- You will see the brightness adjustment bar with a big sun and a small sun. Tap the sun on the right side of the bar about 9 times
- Now you'll see a message pop up, which asks you for a password
And this is where I got stuck for a long time. And usually you can't get past this point I guess.
But one day, when they updated the software to V 4.01 I just could access the developer options and enable ADB and stuff. I have no idea how that worked, it must have been a bug within the version. After another update of the MAIC software (V 4.02), I couldn't access it anymore either.
Maybe you're lucky and you'll be able to get into it too, if you didn't install the latest update yet.
What I did was, I installed a launcher (I was able to use the devices browser and access the apk) and then I could switch between Kiosk mode and the "normal" android display. If you could manage to install any launcher (I used Evie Launcher and it worked great) you can use it like a tablet (it's slow as hell, though).
That would be soooo great, if you could share the drivers! It would help me a lot. Because like you, I would try flashing a stock ROM, too, and maybe we'll find a way to enable ADB with a modified ROM.
Well, let me know, if you find something! I gave up already, because I really didn't find the right spots. On the small PCB on the left, if you unscrew it and turn it around, there are several more gold points, btw. Maybe you'll find something there. And on the small board (where the Buttons for Power, Volume + and Volume - are located) there are some golden points too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem at all, I will attach them (drivers) on Monday when I return back to my office. I will attach you also screenshots from my device manager to know how windows recognize them.
This is all you need in your case, don't bother with the hardware reset.
sdancer said:
No problem at all, I will attach them (drivers) on Monday when I return back to my office. I will attach you also screenshots from my device manager to know how windows recognize them.
This is all you need in your case, don't bother with the hardware reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's awesome! Thank you in advance.
Yeah, I guess the hardware reset really takes some time and a lot of trial and error.
But if you manage to do it, let me know, I'm just curious in general, if that's possible with this device.
To Flash your device,
1) Install the drivers
2) Press Download from SP Flash Tool
2) Connect USB
3) Connect the power outlet from your device (in this case) or connect the battery
****WARNING: DONT FORMAT THE PRELOAD or you will get a DEAD BOOT device, use ONLY DOWNLOAD and not download+format
AutoInstall
=================
MediaTek_Preloader_USB_VCOM_drivers.exe
File on MEGA
mega.nz
Manual Install
=================
MediaTek_Preloader_USB_VCOM_Drivers_Setup_Signed.zip
File on MEGA
mega.nz
MediaTek_Preloader_USB_VCOM_Drivers.zip
File on MEGA
mega.nz
Hey @sdancer, thank you for the drivers. But I must do something wrong, because it's still not detected. It's not showing in my device manager and nothing happens in SP Flashtool.
I tried the automatic install and the manual install, but still nothing :/
Could you maybe explain how exactly you installed them? Maybe I'm making a mistake there.
1) Check the USB cable and make sure it works fine for data transfers (some cables are only for charging and does not contain the data wires inside)
2) Download the drivers https://mega.nz/file/ePITwCbA#DvF-SAOA8_nI0vFReV_fR1JuDJa_1us_SDnQKUstoZ4
3) Follow the instructions I recorded for you at
sdancer said:
1) Check the USB cable and make sure it works fine for data transfers (some cables are only for charging and does not contain the data wires inside)
2) Download the drivers https://mega.nz/file/ePITwCbA#DvF-SAOA8_nI0vFReV_fR1JuDJa_1us_SDnQKUstoZ4
3) Follow the instructions I recorded for you at
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi again, sorry it took a while to reply. So, I tried, and it does find the device now, but only as "Unknown device" and not as "Android Device". I tried several drivers but it won't connect, when I try SP Flashtool.
Really tough thing, this MAIC, haha.
zeetotheuno said:
Hi again, sorry it took a while to reply. So, I tried, and it does find the device now, but only as "Unknown device" and not as "Android Device". I tried several drivers but it won't connect, when I try SP Flashtool.
Really tough thing, this MAIC, haha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I suppose that this is a driver's problem, you should try to fix it someway.
Hello good people! I did a factory reset because this device was not working good and it was really buggy, I did this before when i had problem with the device, but now I'm stuck at location selection and can't pass it! Please take a look at my pictures, to clear the situation.
I'm seeking for help for months now, so, if anyone can help me, I will be really grateful
Thank you, Marko
Marko121212 said:
Hello good people! I did a factory reset because this device was not working good and it was really buggy, I did this before when i had problem with the device, but now I'm stuck at location selection and can't pass it! Please take a look at my pictures, to clear the situation.
I'm seeking for help for months now, so, if anyone can help me, I will be really grateful
Thank you, Marko
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any idea, Any fix?
paulos2951 said:
Any idea, Any fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no idea bro :/ Hoping that someone will help me
Marko121212 said:
Hello good people! I did a factory reset because this device was not working good and it was really buggy, I did this before when i had problem with the device, but now I'm stuck at location selection and can't pass it! Please take a look at my pictures, to clear the situation.
I'm seeking for help for months now, so, if anyone can help me, I will be really grateful
Thank you, Marko
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem with you
If you find a solution please send me a message !
Jim-Kyritsis said:
I have the same problem with you
If you find a solution please send me a message !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi friend! Are you Greek? Is there a way to contact MLS in Greece?