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Any adaptors that will allow me to use proper 3.5 inch headphone jack in place of the mini USB ones ( i dont like the in ear phones) checked ebay and couldnt see anything?
you want get one of these http://www.expansys.com/p.aspx?i=142090 - Mike
Ouch, that thing is both horribly badly designed and prohibitively expensive- it's going to stick out what looks like an inch by itself, most headphone plugs will add another inch on top of that- I need something that fits flush with the bottom of the phone (comes out at a right angle) AND supplies an input for the charger. One can only dream!
The orbit would make a great on-mains Wifi internet radio if such a gubbin existed- hook up some speakers, start TCPMP, sorted!
in which case if you don't like wires stop messing around and get a set of A2DP compatible headphones - the quality is very good, but far more costly than a cable addaptor - the choice is yours - Mike
Might have been worth while if I didn't use an iPod for all my portable audio needs- have you seen any A2DP compatible speakers around?
Looks like there are hacks out there, but no official products, the combination really would just turn the Orbit into an incredibly expensive Wifi radio! But where's the fun in just going out and buying a proper one!
Have a look at the products made by Parrot there are a few Bluetooth audio add on boxes, I fail to see the relevance to WiFi?? as the A2DP profile is Bluetooth - it even works on the T-Mobile MDA-CIII which has no WiFi - Mike
I say wifi radio because I listen to internet radio stations around the house using the Orbit, and the ol' tinternet comes via the wifi doohickey!
A2DP is, of course, a bluetooth profile and would be the method over which I get decent sounding audio from the Orbit to some speakers whilst still having the Orbit plugged into mains so the battery doesn't get sucked dry... that said I think the Orbit will last a good few hours streaming internet radio, although I have yet to put that to the test.
My other solution would be, as mentioned above, an adaptor that allows both the charger AND headset to be plugged in- I can't see this as being technically impossible.
With a brief cursory investigation I have discovered, I think, that the headset uses a proprietary 6-pin connection on the opposite side of the mini-usb connector. The headphones do not use the 4-pin standard mini-usb connector on the other side, but a connector that uses both should be reasonably simple to produce. Ergo it should be childs play for a third party to produce an Artemis dock that contains not only a connection to USB but a standard 3.5mm amplified microphone socket alongside a standard 3.5mm amplified stero audio jack... not to mention a button on the front of the dock for picking up calls and a volume slider if you really wanted them.
Call me crazy, but I want one of those!
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
Dear lord! You've made my day! Hmmm, a little jiggery pokery and I might even be able to incorporate that into a dock but it'll be fantastic for charging and listening to net radio at work- takes that little extra load off my desktop PC.
Cheers!
Glad I could help
richiev4 said:
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Does anyone know if the above would work with a set of mini stereo speakers with a 3.5mm headphone jack (like the walkman speakers i used to have, back in the day...) to listen to the FM radio while charging the phone from mains? Or would you still need the headphones plugged into get any FM reception?
Daft question maybe, but I wondered whether the device would just use the speaker wires as an antenna instead of the headphone wires?
It will work fine, I am going to use mine to connect my orbit to my home stereo and charge it at the same time.
Rich
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
http://www.expansys.com/s.aspx
try doing a search for "2.5mm"
A very good Items for the Artemis on EbaY :
look :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/FOR-ORANGE-SPV-E...ryZ14419QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adatper
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
cegmawr said:
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this so you can listen to music from the Orbit? I've had difficulty on my bike with this...music cuts out and wont restart after phone call is over. In the end, I bought the Autocom bluetooth dongle and now bluetooth the Orbit to the bike. I get phone calls and GPS just fine, but I use a wired iPod for music.
cegmawr said:
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this support the Artemis? It isn't in the list....
There was a posting for the mini USB PinOut some Time ago. Look in the wiki Section to find it. Here is what they showed up with.
Maybe This will Help someone to build their own Adapter or whatsoever.
Greetings
Jabami
so what was the general concensus with using Autocom? Did the 2.5mm jack work?
I want to avoid using the bluetooth option on autocom, since I might just as well go for a Scala bluetooth headset instead if the jack doesnt work...
I am on my third Incredible replacement (first one would superheat and enter a reboot cycle; second came to me with an already blown speaker; this one seems fine), but I have been unable on ANY of them to get the AUX INPUT on my car to play in stereo when hooked up. Headphones work fine.
This leads me to believe that it may be the cable, but an ipod works fine (=stereo) with that cable.
Any thoughts?
I believe that modern ipod cables have 4 conductors. You need an old school 3 conductor cable.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Aux should work in your car, if your having general problems with the input - download "Headset Blocker" from the market and add it as a widget on your homescreen then enable it and try again. This disable any headset voice actions because for some reason incredibles have trouble with determining headsets from auxiliary inputs.
I have had the same problem and I had to end up buying audio video cables and getting the old school three prong adapter to work. But I am going to try his method about downloading the app off the market and I will see how it works.
Thanks
psalm462 said:
I have had the same problem and I had to end up buying audio video cables and getting the old school three prong adapter to work. But I am going to try his method about downloading the app off the market and I will see how it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you recommend a cable that worked for you ... maybe from Monoprice?!?
Thanks!
It looks like product id 644 should do the trick, if the picture is accurate. I am also assuming you need 3.5mm male connectors on both ends. They also have higher quality versions of the cable. Check out the Audio Cable - RCA / 3.5mm section.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Just got mine; ordered directly from their site on Saturday, received it today... $39.99, free shipping, no tax.
I was using a Logitech unit previously, and while it sounded fine, it had the disadvantage of not being very good at automatically reconnecting to the phone, and of course it had no hands free capabilities. As with pretty much all bluetooth units, there are a ton of reviews on the Kinivo; both good and terrible, so I thought I would offer this up strictly within the context of the Moto X.
Short story... I am thrilled with it!
Pros:
Amazing connectivity. It reconnects under every condition possible; moving out of range and then back in range, power off and then on, Bluetooth off and then on. My vehicle's power ports are always hot, except when cranking. This gave the Logitech fits, and I was concerned about the Kinivo as well. Bottom line... if bluetooth on the phone is on, it is always connected!
Reasonable audio quality, and contrary to a number of online reviews, both in call and media volume are good. See my cons below for more on audio.
Very positive buttons. While the thing looks a little cheap, it feels surprisingly good.
While not as good as a quality headset, I thought the in call quality was pretty good. Tried it in town on some bumpy roads, as well as on the freeway and intelligibility was good. I mounted it on the side of my center console so I can access it with my thumb when my arm is on the armrest.
Interoperability with voice commands works very well. Long press the main button and speak after the prompt. Bingo!
Cons:
In my Ford truck with Eclipse head unit, it requires a ground loop isolater, as has been the case with any 12v powered device in this vehicle. However this IS a 5v device. I suppose I could've cut the 12v adapter off and power it from my daqstuff isolated 5v supply to eliminate the need for the isolation transformer, but didn't want to mangle it before checking out how well it worked. Obviously, the audio will be much better without the transformer, but it is still bluetooth, and I primarily listen to podcasts while driving. Plus, all the music on my phone is from Google Play Music, which is notoriously poor quality anyway. I doubt I will be rewiring this to the 5v supply as I am happy enough with it as is. I can always pop in a CD when I really care about audio fidelity.
While in call quality seems completely acceptable to me (it sounds easily as good as my brother's fairly recent Sony unit), if you're doing business while driving, and expect it to sound like your not, this is not for you.
While voice commands work perfectly, the initial prompt to say a command is very low in volume; like 10db lower than anything else. The rest of the prompts / confirmations / responses are fine, so this is a mystery I have yet to figure out.
Wires are thin. While I suppose this makes it easy to route them, they will not stand up to a lot of stress. The interior of my truck is dark gray, and I felt it prudent to use some black gaffer's tap to secure all dangling wires to surfaces.
Bottom line... How well this works, and being able to locate this little button practically anywhere, makes this thing insanely convenient.
I have been using mine for over a year and am still loving it. Coming from the Belkin one, this one is much better since it auto-connects/disconnects with vehicle power. This can also be a con for some vehicles though, since some vehicles give the outlet constant power even when powered off, the unit won't know to disconnect and will keep your phone paired. This was a problem for me since my vehicle is close enough to my desk in my office that it would stay paired until I manually disconnected. What I ended up doing was hard wiring an outlet into my fuse panel that was switched on and off with vehicle power.
I've been using one in my work vehicle and my personal vehicle for a month or so and love it. I thought the audio quality of music was really good, as is hands free phone calls.
My phone does not auto connect on either device, but its not a big deal. I just push the main button on the BT and it connects immediately. This may be because I have my phone paired with more than one BT audio device, not sure.
Either way, I'm very happy with the Kinivio.
Mr. Orange 645 said:
My phone does not auto connect on either device, but its not a big deal. I just push the main button on the BT and it connects immediately. This may be because I have my phone paired with more than one BT audio device, not sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Moto X is paired with no less than five devices with three of them both HF and A2DP protocols, so I doubt that is the issue.
The Kinivo however will only automatically reconnect to the last device that connected with it.
Solutions Etcetera said:
My Moto X is paired with no less than five devices with three of them both HF and A2DP protocols, so I doubt that is the issue.
The Kinivo however will only automatically reconnect to the last device that connected with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Moto X is the only device that's ever been connected to the Kinivio. How long does it usually take to auto connect? Maybe I'm just impatient? And are you on stock 4.4.2?
Mr. Orange 645 said:
My Moto X is the only device that's ever been connected to the Kinivio. How long does it usually take to auto connect? Maybe I'm just impatient? And are you on stock 4.4.2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It connects as soon as I get in range or almost immediately after it powers up, unless the Kinivo has dropped into standby mode (then I have to push the button). I am stock 4.4.2, unrooted xt1053.
My truck's power outlets are always hot, but cranking the starter shuts them down momentarily. The only time I have to press the button is if I don't start the truck and it's been a while with BT off or out of range.
Solutions Etcetera said:
It connects as soon as I get in range or almost immediately after it powers up, unless the Kinivo has dropped into standby mode (then I have to push the button). I am stock 4.4.2, unrooted xt1053.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bet my Kinivio is going into stand by mode then.
I have had this for a while and mostly happy with it, but recently people have been telling me that its way too hard to understand what I am saying when I am on the phone with them using the kinivo, and every time I have had to switch to speakerphone for them to hear me right. Other than that I have been happy with it. I also am able to connect my moto x and nexus 7 2013 with it at the same time, using the nexus 7 on media and the moto x on phone. The key is I must connect the nexus 7 first and the moto x 2nd. If the moto x is connected first the nexus will not connect.
Just an update regarding how I was able to eliminate the need for a ground isolation transformer, and hence significantly increase the audio quality.
Last year I installed one of these in my center console to charge my mobile devices...
http://daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
Since the Kinivo runs on 5v, I was planning on ripping apart the 12v power plug and wiring 5v from the DaqStuff supply to it. But the power plug HAS a 5v USB port on it. Surely that was in parallel to the 5v being supplied to the Kinivo.
I asked Kinivo whether I could just plug a 5v supply into it via the USB port rather than plugging it into a 12v power port. Their answer was that the USB port was an output. I understood that, but it is only an output when the thing is plugged into 12v. Rather than belabor the point with a CSR who most likely has no knowledge of electricity, I just decided to try it.
Success! After verifying the Kinivo operated normally with 5v plugged into its USB port, I removed the isolation transformer from the audio line. No noise, much better audio quality (sans transformer), and all without having to hack the power plug!
I too just picked one of these up from Amazon and am pretty happy with it. It so happens that this thing also supports apt-x codec in addition to standard SBC audio codec, so music should sound a little better too.
Question here: If a pare the device to a galaxy s4 and I push the middle button, what application opens to receive the voice command? google voice or s voice?
mnunez2 said:
Question here: If a pare the device to a galaxy s4 and I push the middle button, what application opens to receive the voice command? google voice or s voice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it will pop up a window asking you which one you want to use and the option to set as default. When I press it with my Moto X connected it gives the option to select touchless control or google now as the voice command application, so I think any app that offers that functionality would show up.
alk195 said:
I believe it will pop up a window asking you which one you want to use and the option to set as default. When I press it with my Moto X connected it gives the option to select touchless control or google now as the voice command application, so I think any app that offers that functionality would show up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good.. Thanks...!
Solutions Etcetera said:
Just an update regarding how I was able to eliminate the need for a ground isolation transformer, and hence significantly increase the audio quality.
Last year I installed one of these in my center console to charge my mobile devices...
http://daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
Since the Kinivo runs on 5v, I was planning on ripping apart the 12v power plug and wiring 5v from the DaqStuff supply to it. But the power plug HAS a 5v USB port on it. Surely that was in parallel to the 5v being supplied to the Kinivo.
I asked Kinivo whether I could just plug a 5v supply into it via the USB port rather than plugging it into a 12v power port. Their answer was that the USB port was an output. I understood that, but it is only an output when the thing is plugged into 12v. Rather than belabor the point with a CSR who most likely has no knowledge of electricity, I just decided to try it.
Success! After verifying the Kinivo operated normally with 5v plugged into its USB port, I removed the isolation transformer from the audio line. No noise, much better audio quality (sans transformer), and all without having to hack the power plug!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you just use a cable like https://www.computercableinc.com/ccinc/images/USB-A-A-Black-BestLink.jpg or something else to do this?
Yup, standard usb A, male to male.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Just an update regarding how I was able to eliminate the need for a ground isolation transformer, and hence significantly increase the audio quality.
Last year I installed one of these in my center console to charge my mobile devices...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the very solution I've been searching for. The ground loop isolator I have connected introduces way too much noise for my liking. I checked out the site... I understand what the IN +12V and IN GND are for, but what's the OUT DGND connected to? The vehicle chassis?
waybeyond said:
This is the very solution I've been searching for. The ground loop isolator I have connected introduces way too much noise for my liking. I checked out the site... I understand what the IN +12V and IN GND are for, but what's the OUT DGND connected to? The vehicle chassis?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the negative(gnd) terminal for the wired 5V output. If you're using only the USB connected outputs, the wired OUTputs will not be used.
Solutions Etcetera said:
It's the negative(gnd) terminal for the wired 5V output. If you're using only the USB connected outputs, the wired OUTputs will not be used.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahhh. That makes a lot more sense. Okay, got it. Thank you!
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup, standard usb A, male to male.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought one of these but didn't realise the 12V adapter was hard wired. I want to use it in a centre console cubby hole on my car which has Aux-in and USB power - no 12v adapter.
So what you're saying is that with a simple USB A-A cable, I can take the USB power socket in my car, plug it into the USB output socket on the 12v adapter of the kinivo, and it'll power it? That'd be fantastic if true - save me returning it or hacking the cable. Especially as this sounds like a pretty great receiver too.
rplumb said:
So what you're saying is that with a simple USB A-A cable, I can take the USB power socket in my car, plug it into the USB output socket on the 12v adapter of the kinivo, and it'll power it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. You may run into ground loop issues if your 5v supply is not isolated, but can't say for certain as mine is.
OK. So 2 years ago I saw a thread on the Nexus 7 tablet forums where someone essentially turn it into a car deck. At the time it was complicated, convoluted and buggy to say the least. Since then its been a thought exercise to make this work. How I wanted it to work. This is what I wanted:
Simple plug&play. One USB connection to carry high quality audio out from the device while still allowing it to charge. This is the most difficult. On the Nexus 7 it required a special kernel and plus the accessories had to be connected in the right sequence. Not exactly the one action set up I was going for.
The easy way to accomplish this was to use a standard USB charger and then use the headphone jack to send audio to the Aux input of the stereo. Great in theory! However the phones/tablets I have used always allowed alternator whine into the sound. Not ideal either.
Third common way is to use bluetooth audio. My Pioneer deck does support this. But we all know the quality of the sound from this is OK at best. Play some ripping guitar or something melodic and you can really hear the compression (watery, slurred "S"s sound). Not good enough for me.
Now when I had first read about this concept I started accumulating various adapters and parts to play with. First was a Behringer 202 External DAC. Its low cost but had decent reviews. Perfect for my installation. Plus the added benefit of several output format options, so a deck with an optical input could also be used if yours has one. With this I got a simple USB OTG with the Micro USB charger Y-cable. The one that has a standard female USB, the charger connection and the one to the device. Now this whole thing never worked properly. I ended up using the OTG cable with the DAC, but on my home stereo where I could place a Qi Pad under the Nexus (and my S4 before) to charge and the DAC for audio. At least I was using what I spent money on. Just not the way I wanted.
Fast forward to yesterday morning. I have had my Nexus 5 for a few months but had not tried this set up. The fussing with kernels on other devices and units over the years had me giving up. But I figured why not try with the DAC and standard charger connected (they were just sitting there after all). Low and behold it worked! And I mean perfectly! It was a big light had been turned on and the world was beautiful! Then I tried my M8 and it failed......but the Nexus 5 for the win! Oh, and even when connected to the power the DAC turned off when I disconnected the phone. So it shouldn't drain my truck's battery (though I parked on a hill tonight just in case!).
So! Here is my car installation that I was finally able to complete. I have included photos of the installation and the parts I used. It's in a list format that I hope follows the pictures. it will take me a post or three to get it all in! So bear with me.
Ingredients:
Nexus 5 (I am running Liquid Smooth for my ROM, I have not tested it on other ROMs at the time of this post).
External DAC. Like the Behringer 202 I used, but I would assume most would work.
USB OTG and Charging Cable
RCA to 3.5mm headset adapter.
Standard car charger. I have a Belkin 1A one that works like a charm. In theory you could use the USB on the stereo if included, but you may not charge reliably.
Standard USB to Micro USB cable
iBolt xDockPro for the HTC. This is optional, but i like the iBolt and their right angled USB is the right way for the Nexus. Which made the set up cleaner.
Car Home Ultra from the Play Store
So. The first photo shows all the stuff I used (minus the car deck and truck).
Second you will see I am in fact using the HTC Dock
Next is the DAC I used
Followed by the adapter cable
The the RCA adapter
The before picture. The sticky pad for the mount was there cause I was already using my iBolt with just a charger tucked in.
This one you will see I have taken the y-cable and connected it to the iBolt adapter. My dash had the room for this, you may need an extension as the y-cable is really short!
Dash is coming apart!
To be continued (I can only post so many pics at once!
Part Deux!
So the next photo shows my deck's AUX input. Now I bought this unit because it had a rear jack. So connected the headphone plug into the AUX jack.
These next four pictures are just to show which power supply I used and how the USB cable is run up to the y-adapter. Now it would be possible to use your stereos USB for power if equiped. I didn't for two reasons. First, the phone/stereo may think your connecting a flash drive (both unit could be trying to be the "host"). Second the stereo may not put out enough amperage to run both the phone and the connected DAC. So I just went with the separate supply. Plus its easy to disconnect it should I need too.
This is me connecting the DAC. Now I wanted to show this particular step as you can see the power light is NOT lit even when connected to vehicle power.
RCA cable is now connected to the DAC.
The set up all buttoned up!
To be continued.....
Trio!
This post is more about the proof of concept and the Car home Setup. Here it is!
Basically once the hardware was all set (1 & 2) I fired it up, and used Play Music (and others) making sure Bluetooth was NOT paired yet. Sounds AWESOME! Makes a night and day difference! Then I paired it for hands free while making sure the media wasn't connecting. Now went into Car Home Ultra and just set it to launch with the my stereo's bluetooth connection. My only next goal I need to finish is to get an NFC tag to control Bluetooth on the iBolt. Car Home is set to turn WiFi off automatically when its running, but my set up is reliant on BT running all the time (or have me remember to turn it on/off, but defeats my plug'n'play concept).
That's the gist of it. If you would like more details or suggestions please let me know!
So it's not just my Ford Fiesta that sends lots of noise to the charger? I am a little relieved, but it sucks to find out that this is somehow a "standard"...
Nice setup there!
daniel_loft said:
So it's not just my Ford Fiesta that sends lots of noise to the charger? I am a little relieved, but it sucks to find out that this is somehow a "standard"...
Nice setup there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a fix. They make something called a "ground loop isolator" that can usually fix the noise generated from you alternator. Here is an example, quick google search brought it up. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5..._sim_pc_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FEVW0RPFQ5W3V742E6G
You could put a more temporary/portable set up like mine, wouldn't be hard if your still having issues. Put all the parts together, stuff it all in an old cassette or floppy disk case with a few holes for the cables to stick out of.
Yeah, now the challenge is to find ways to make it work on more devices. It's really unfortunate that the M8 doesn't on Sense based ROMs (I plan on trying a GPE ROM in a few days to see if that makes a difference).
And I may now invest in a proper proclip mount so it's not up on the dash like that. But it works like a hot damn as is for now. Even with LTE on, display always on and streaming audio it charges, though pretty slow. Still. Better than not at all. And I can always turn the screen off if I wanted to give it more juice.
I have my Nexus 5 w/o the case using an iBolt mount I already had and a cheap qi charger and works great.
Nice Setup... I was actually looking for something like this. Thanks for posting
There are a lot of microUSB to USB + aux splitters on amazon for the Samsung Galaxy phones. Would these have worked all the same? Or does the Nexus 5 not have a docking capability that would sense the plug?
For those that don't know BlackBerry sells a blutooth adapter that uses power from the usb charging port on your after market stereo. I use it on mine. This thing is crazy small I hide it in the gap behind my stereo and the reception is good you have around a 10ft radius depending on where you hid your dongle.
http://shop.crackberry.com/blackberry-music-gateway/9A172A11438.htm
Nice I see you have a Colorado. I have a Nexus 7 in mine. I can say that after hours and days of troubleshooting ground noise I could not get rid of it. I had to use a ground loop isolator
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
Hey guys,
Bought some nice headphones with the 3 button control on it. The center button works for pausing/playing and skipping to the next track, but the volume controls don't work for some reason... Can I do something to get them working? Maybe download something? Change some settings?
Thank you!
I don't think the phone supports that, did you try the mic? In some of the three buttons headsets the mic does not work.
Mic does not work either, is there a way to make the headset supported?
Have you tried Tasker?
Not very familiar with the program? Could you recommend what to do?
Jeanxito said:
Have you tried Tasker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any suggestions?
Thank you!
From my point of view, you can always try to create a profile for your headphones, that can control the way you want, signing buttons to work like you want. You can always use other automate programs but, tasker is the most complete and powerful IMO.
If you can not use it, our can't find the your way to work with it there's always a wiki for it (just search for it) our try to use others like "Smartkey" or "RemoteControl for Earphones" (search playstore).
I tried an app called headset button controller and it recognized the center button clicks but did not recognize the volume button clicks. Can I somehow in tasked or another program get the volume buttons to recognize?
It sounds like you've got a iPhone compatible headset rather than an android one. I've only just started looking into this myself (as I'm in the market for a new headset) but as I understand it Apple have swapped the pin out on the TRRS connector. I think there might be adapters available if you're married to you're current headset but I haven't really investigated that as I haven't bought anything yet and I think an adapter would end up being clumsy.
On mobile so don't have my links in front of me but hopefully that's enough to give you an appropriate Google query.
obzbdc said:
It sounds like you've got a iPhone compatible headset rather than an android one. I've only just started looking into this myself (as I'm in the market for a new headset) but as I understand it Apple have swapped the pin out on the TRRS connector. I think there might be adapters available if you're married to you're current headset but I haven't really investigated that as I haven't bought anything yet and I think an adapter would end up being clumsy.
On mobile so don't have my links in front of me but hopefully that's enough to give you an appropriate Google query.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The headset I have has an extension that I put on to make the cord longer, I wouldn't mind buying the trrs adapter and using this new cable/adapter instead of my current one.... Would this fix my problem of the buttons not working?
Nope, sorry!
arty93 said:
The headset I have has an extension that I put on to make the cord longer, I wouldn't mind buying the trrs adapter and using this new cable/adapter instead of my current one.... Would this fix my problem of the buttons not working?
Click to expand...
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Hiya,
I finally got around to doing some more research into this, apparantly there are two different issues with using Apple headsets with Android devices.
1 - Wiring change on 3.5mm TRRS connector. - This is why the microphone doesn't work for calls, Apple changed the pin out on the headphone jack to the reverse of most other manufacturers. This is the problem that can be solved by the adapter I was talking about originally.
2 - Different resistance on the button commands. - In addition to the wiring changes Apple also use a different electrical resistance on the buttons (and have patented their specific level). The adapter doesn't fix this unfortunately so even with it the buttons still won't work.
Looks like there isn't a solution to #2 unfortunately so it might be time to start looking at a different headset entirely.
Sorry for getting your hopes up with my original post.
BDC