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For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.
I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.
I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
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Click to collapse
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
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Click to collapse
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.
Well, after 5 months of looking out for the best values, I've experimented and all and found out these to be the best. Even at lowest brightness, the screen is crisp and clear just like it's supposed to be.
People who have the Purple Screen issue, I highly recommend you use these values.
Requirements -
1. Franco Kernel Updater (TKT wouldn't give that much brightness/crispyness to the screen)
2. ICS Gradient Fix (Check Signature)
3. Franco Kernel
First up, flash Franco's latest kernel.
Secondly, make sure you don't have any 2 or more applications which have Color Control options (Like, Franco Kernel Updater and TKT - Remove TKT and stay with Franco). If you do have 2 or more installed, please set all values to default on all applications including Franco's. (In TKT, click on menu and select reset preferences and reboot).
Third, fire up Franco Kernel Updater and get to the CC options and set these :
Color Multipliers -
Red - 280
Green - 292
Blue - 350
Gamma -
Red - 4
Green - 0
Blue - 9
Disable Contrast Adaptive Brightness - Yes (Tick)
Contrast Control : -24
OMAP Gamma - 1.2
These values work BEST with MoDaCo's JB Build. Tested on Jr1, Jr.1.1, Jr2.
Please note : This is simply a band aid, not a total fix. The purple screen and grain issue is probably a hardware issue. This settings are extremely crisp on my device. You need to get adapted to them.
Thanks to -
1. Franco for his amazing kernel and application.
2. Morfic for introducing contrast control into the kernel world and of course for his kindness. (You're the sweetest developer I've talked to).
Best of luck with these settings guys!
Please, don't forget to click "Thanks"!
It made everything look over-saturated for me.. plus, is it safe to jack up the settings like this?
It did improve the grainy screen on low brightness problem, though.
Well, i think the best values i've EVER Seen.
Oh dear, so f****ng awesome.
via Google Galaxy Nexus
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thank you for this! By far the best optimization of colors I've ever seen. Maybe colors are a bit over-saturated but thats how Super AMOLED should produce.
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
craigbailey1986 said:
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try reducing every multiplier value by 40. 280 to 240, 292 to 252 and 300 to 260.
This can never be an all-in-one "fix" because of the way screen technology works. Everyone's screen will have different degrees of the problem itself (purple tint & grain), on top of that they will all have a slightly different color temperature, contrast level, saturation etc. By providing the values that worked for you, you're just going to have a thread where half the people think it looks great, half think it looks awful, and everyone thinks everyone else is crazy.
A better idea might be to describe the steps you took to arrive at your own numbers, things you looked for, how you tweaked them to get to the best values.
Look Excellent to me - Screen absolutely Pops, so vivid and the gradient issues are not visible.
Thanks so much!
Those high values are gonna kill your screen
OP settings work well for me (similar to my 200 215 280, -2 0 10, -23, CAB off), but OMAP always makes things worse IMO. With OMAP at 1.2 I instantly see banding again where with it off the gradients are smooth. OP settings with OMAP 1.0 are excellent however, reducing the magenta and yellowing I was seeing with my others. I am worried about the burn-in though..
What's this about burn in? Do these settings cause it?
I sort-of mispoke. Burn-in is possible, but high multipliers are more worried to wear out those pixels/degrade them faster.
Edit: I'm going for more of a "Trinity Blue" sort of solution now: 215 235 280, -2 0 15, -24, CAD off, OMAP unset. Still trying to find that balance that gets rid of the magenta/yellow at all points.
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
strumcat said:
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
arzbhatia said:
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been discussed few times already - going above 200 can lead to screen burn in. On SAMOLED screens blue color wear out first and peeps really shouldn't touch this setting. Better set lower red/green values. Screen will look a bit darker so don't cranck up contrast too much, -10 should be good enough.
herzzreh said:
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the graphs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29037317&postcount=1
herzzreh said:
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see where your gamma should by by installing the free version of Display Tester from the Play Store. Go to Color, Gamma, and slide the gray screen to the left to see the red page. Find the vertical bar that most closely matches the red bacground. The number on that bar is where your gamma should be set for that color. Mine is spot on at 2.3. Then slide to green page and do the same. Then the blue page. My green gamma reading is 2.8, meaning it isn't quite as bright as the red or blue, so I have to turn it up a hair. My blue is good at 2.3. The adjustment sliders in TKT only give me whole-number choices, so I get as close as possible with 2, 3, 2. I'm just guessing there, since TKT doesn't have normal gamma increments. Anyway good luck taming your gamma.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz
Just to share this with you guys..
With every display that I use, I try to have it calibrated and I was trilled that with the nexus I had so much control over the screen!! Never had a phone with so much control
You have here my results.
Just be aware that the "before" is with trinity kernel stock color scheme and I'm really grateful that his market tool and not to forget franco.kernel tool too,made possible for me to calibrate...
I used a 18% gray card to make sure white balance was spot on when converting the raw files into smaller jpg.
I did find that sometimes the changes did not apply so I did a double check by exaggerating the values when making the changes. Contrast was one of them..
On the graphs, the white dotted line is the reference
Only problem with this is that not all screens are the same so these settings will not work for everybody
My calibrated values
tint
red 200
green 169
blue 178
gamma
red 2
green 0
blue 0
disable dynamic contrast
contrast value 0
If you use franco.kernel tool
gamma 1.0
If you like image with more contrast, i would set it between -6 to -10
Very interesting and the before/after photos look good. Is there a problem with burn in?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
Looks a little red for me. Your results look great though.
The improvement in the color of the dog photo is drastic. Trinity kernel does come with the blue really cranked up for some reason. Looking good now.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz
chw2006 said:
Looks a little red for me. Your results look great though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is too red for me also
sd
little red for me as well, but i'm loving it.
sqjzb said:
little red for me as well, but i'm loving it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25
If you look at the calibrated rgb graph, red is a few points bellow reference. And again if you look at the color temperature line it is a little above 6500k. It is normal for first reaction about red when actually your missing blue because almost every screen you are used too has to much blue on it..yet again there's the tint problem on a bunch of nexus too.. if I get my hands on one of them I'll post here the results
Edit: for you "red guys" try to invert the red with blue values
Red 178
Blue 200
BUT keep gamma the same.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for sharing this. I can never get the color settings right. This helps immensely.
sublimaze said:
Thanks for sharing this. I can never get the color settings right. This helps immensely.
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Click to collapse
you're welcome.
Outstanding. I was wondering if using my colorometer would work on the phone. Looks like I have a nice project for this weekend I need to revalidate my HT and PC too so might as well throw the phone in there too :O
Use hcfr and the color swatch app from the Market..
If you get stuck on gamma, don't sweat it too much.. I spent an hour trying to get it right, no luck with this screen. Colors are bang on though.
For those who don't know, 6500k is the reference color temperature. To most people it looks too red or even yellow, but it's what the whole publishing and photography world uses.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
herzzreh said:
Use hcfr and the color swatch app from the Market..
If you get stuck on gamma, don't sweat it too much.. I spent an hour trying to get it right, no luck with this screen. Colors are bang on though.
For those who don't know, 6500k is the reference color temperature. To most people it looks too red or even yellow, but it's what the whole publishing and photography world uses.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
or you can install mxplayer,
get from here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration
the mp4 version, extract it, goto to:
ColorHCFR Fields folder,
10% Grayscale folder
and use that files with mxplayer.
My gamma is 99% spot on. I go for 2.3x since with amoled screen the black mml is almost zero, you will not sacrifice shadow content and have a great contrast
I don't get it, how you use hcfr with android? I tried but I just can test my monitor (pc) =/ is there a guide or something?
the way I do right now is testing with http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ and setting manually parameters on phone until it looks great.
badtzo said:
I don't get it, how you use hcfr with android? I tried but I just can test my monitor (pc) =/ is there a guide or something?
the way I do right now is testing with http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ and setting manually parameters on phone until it looks great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you don't !! you use a laptop with the colorimeter connected to it.
your phone just plays the mp4 for calibrating your screen.
adolfotregosa said:
you don't !! you use a laptop with the colorimeter connected to it.
your phone just plays the mp4 for calibrating your screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, just like you use it to calibrate your HT screen. I run a long usb cable to my PC and use a DVD I burned with an ISO of test screens.
Thanks for the tips on test screens for the phone. saves me the time searching them out
I was searching on web I found that I need a meter, for that is the usb port right? (like spyder2 or EyeOne) mmm I was conecting my phone XD first time trying this tools. Now I understand what all this is about.
That looks that I will be doing this as usual =/ with my only 2 eyes :cyclops: meter XDD ohh wait that's just one of them xDD
well thanks for answer and that pic looks great. Right now I'm on CM10 and config my screen with their "advance" tool and comparing to the webpage I shared. That looks good too but I perceive a little bit reddish on dark colors. Thats so F******* better than blue one XD now looks like Super Amoled plus the contrast is pretty similar to SGS3.
Great post, thank you!
Excellent information, thanks!
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
here are my settings :
color multiplliers
red:200
green:150
blue:210
red: -3
green: 0
blue: 2
trinity : 0
gamma interface : 1
is it normal that my LED colours seem to have multiple colours in them.. like example if i set the notification ligth to be orange ( with paranoid rom, but did the same on stock with lightflow) the light will be half light red and the other half will be yellow.. or green and blue if i want light blue.. it seems i have to mess around with the colours value (RGB) to get just one solid colour and not a mix of multiple colours..
this is hard to explain.. so if you know what i mean please let me know.. if not i can take a picture and upload them here!
Thanks
It's my understanding that although it IS an RGB LED, that doesn't necessarily mean that it will be able to recreate every color you could dream of. There's actually another thread here in the S3 section (Forget which part) where people are compiling a list of different Hex values of colors that turn out really well.
elementaldragon said:
It's my understanding that although it IS an RGB LED, that doesn't necessarily mean that it will be able to recreate every color you could dream of. There's actually another thread here in the S3 section (Forget which part) where people are compiling a list of different Hex values of colors that turn out really well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thing is is that im using ParanoidAndroid rom, and i dont see the option to add a hex value.. i can only pick a hue and slide the colour around ..
Well, in my experience with that, it seems to have a better color output for the LED if you don't have the saturation all the way up..... Say if you were shooting for a pure red color, have the slider down just a bit from as bright as it can get. Seemed like whenever i tried using that to set LED colors, if i had it all the way up, it had something else mixed in.... generally i think a bit more of a white color to it.
elementaldragon said:
Well, in my experience with that, it seems to have a better color output for the LED if you don't have the saturation all the way up..... Say if you were shooting for a pure red color, have the slider down just a bit from as bright as it can get. Seemed like whenever i tried using that to set LED colors, if i had it all the way up, it had something else mixed in.... generally i think a bit more of a white color to it.
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Click to collapse
yea thats what ive been doing, seems to work alright, was just wondering if it was normal for it to have mixed colours. thanks, what you said works !
I bought my phone from an online store in Romania on February 22.I have warranty and other things, it was brand new. I kept the screen on full brightness, and Dynamic color mode. That's how I like it. I was aware of burn in so I switched colors with a display tester every 3 days or so. Yesterday I noticed that the spot where status bar is used to be in portrait mode is brighter than the rest of the screen when displaying blue, white and grey colors. Brighter not Darker. I searched on Google images and that doesn't look like burn in. It wasn't here until yesterday when I spotted it. It's barely visible with display tester but in Games videos photos and multi colored things it can't be finded, You need to look with max attention. I used Nova launcher to hide the status bar. I also heard that there are 2 different things, image retention which is fixable and permanent burn in. I searched for something like this but I don't seemed to find something good. I don't know what it is,I never browsed the Web without changing the pixels where the status bar is for more than 20 minutes. I heard burn in occurs in extreme cases. I don't know how this happened so that's why I'm asking you guys. I don't know even what to do it bothers me only in display tester, but otherwise the screen is perfect. Please give me an advice because I don't want to have a faulty screen.. Can it even be repaired under warranty for that?
No one knows what's the problem?
Maybe you could post a photo ?
Look at the top of the screen...That's actually what I'm seeing when looking on a blue test background.This kind of discoloration/brightness where the notification bar usually is when in portrait mode.This is not a screenshot or photo ,it's just a blue image that i modified to show about i'm talking about.It also happens on grey and white and cyan .I couldn't take a photo because i have a crap 7 MP shooter ,and one crapper 2 MP shooter on my old Galaxy Y.I tried them both but noone of them can catch thatstrange discoloration/burn-in/brightness
Xda don't let me to post links..That's the link without the X'es so delete X from this link to go to the image hXttp://i4XX4.tinypic.coXXm/2w4g39j.jpgX
I really don't know what this can be.
I have the same problem! I noticed it a few weeks ago. The bar on top, when in full screen mode, is slightly brighter/lighter compared to the rest of the screen. I can see it the most when using the browser. The screen looks slightly more yellow compared to the grayer (or something like that) bar. Remember the bar is not actually there, just the discoloration in its place. I have no idea what is causing this and I'm hoping it's not hardware related.
It ain't hardware if it shows up in a screenshot. Looks like the exact dimensions of the status bar, almost as if it's compositing it or it's shadow placeholder where it expects it to be. Try a different ROM, or install the Simplistic Framework and try changing the status bar's colour and transparency setting, see if it makes any difference.
vanButton said:
It ain't hardware if it shows up in a screenshot. Looks like the exact dimensions of the status bar, almost as if it's compositing it or it's shadow placeholder where it expects it to be. Try a different ROM, or install the Simplistic Framework and try changing the status bar's colour and transparency setting, see if it makes any difference.
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I wrote that.It doesn't show up in screenshots.I edited a blue picture to look exactly like my phone screen.The problem I think it's the screen itself.And the reason for why I edited a picture is that as I said my shooters can't spot it.Any ideas?Also I use the stock ROM ,un-rooted..Everything stock ,including the notification bar.I just have a custom launcher wallpaper and widgets...
It shows up when you turn the phone in landscape mode as well. It remains on the side as a vertical discoloration where the notification bar resides when in portrait mode. I'm not pleased to say the least.
Techweed said:
It shows up when you turn the phone in landscape mode as well. It remains on the side as a vertical discoloration where the notification bar resides when in portrait mode. I'm not pleased to say the least.
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Exactly what's happening to me.
Made in china phones r crap..made in korea by samsung is gud quality
If you have the warranty the warranty, why not use it? Since the problem is from the phone itself.
This is same like what happen to OG note..i thought sammy already solve the problem when they using RGB instead of pentile on our note 2.. this is not good...
I check mine, so far nothing yet. But i afraid now!!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
naimmkassim said:
This is same like what happen to OG note..i thought sammy already solve the problem when they using RGB instead of pentile on our note 2.. this is not good...
I check mine, so far nothing yet. But i afraid now!!
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
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I also thinked that it won't happen on Note 2 too ,but here it is.I'll go further and I'll send it in the service ,after my holiday ends.This thread is good to maintain active because it may help people that also came along this problem
I always set brignest to auto and screen movie mode. So maybe it did save mine from that problem
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
naimmkassim said:
I always set brignest to auto and screen movie mode. So maybe it did save mine from that problem
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
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My phone was on Dynamic and Full Brightness all the time.I love oversaturated and bright screens.LOVE AMOLED <3
Well I found a solution to the problem. It takes time to pull off and is still a work in progress for me but it's working.
I created an image that matched the resolution of the phone screen. I then made a rectangle at the top of this image that presents the exact size of the status bar and colored it white. The rest of the image was colored black.
I installed an app that keeps the screen on without dimming when plugged into the charger. Overnight I display the image I created with the screen set to stay awake and don't dim at full brightness. So what you see is a black screen with a full brightness white strip where the status bar is supposed to be.
This process quickly "ages" the status bar area and it slowly starts to match the rest of the screen. I've been doing it for almost a week and the difference between the two sections of the screen is starting to diminish. I bet a couple more weeks of this and the difference between the two sections will be gone.
I got the problem as well. And I'm telling as many people as I can because I'm annoying like that. Seriously, I hate the fact that I spent such money on faulty phone...Samsung galaxy note 2. <blech>
Unfortunately, Camera has stopped.