Related
Looking for those of you who know what is a safe operating temperature for these qualcomm processors. With the kingklick kernel overclocked, the CPU can get hot quickly and I'd rather not fry my chip for a measley 10% speed increase.
So... I want to put some failsafes in. Right now I have it so my CPU will revert back to the stock 1ghz when it hits 40 degrees celcius, which is fairly easy to hit when watching streaming video (ie. Hulu) or heavy web browsing. I have a second failsafe at 42 degrees celcius which underclocks the CPU to about 500hz.
Is this too conservative? Looks about right? I honestly have no clue, I just wanted to put something out there for now until I can figure out an acceptable temperature range.
The processor, in a lab environment, may have a different operating range. And I think that's what you're asking for (manufacturer's spec). If I find the docs for that, I'll edit this post.
But in actual use (i.e., inside a phone, near other hardware components), you probably want to consider other things. And with that point in mind, the key statement relating to operating temperatures:
The Battery Pack has [an] ..
Operating temperature range: 32 °F to 104°F (0°C to 40°C)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is from the user manual. [Edit: Rather, from the ProductSafety &Warranty Brochure.]
the processors can stand temperatures up to 170 F for an extended period of time
will your phone ever get that hot? no. the phone will freeze and cease to operate at around 140-145 F.
not to mention the battery itself will be pretty hot.
Ok EVO nation!
Here's my scenario. I'm running a fresh flash of MikFroyo 4.5 and Netarchy's 4.2.2. cfs nohavs. With almost nothing else running on the phone.
So far I've seen a the stand-by battery drain hover around 100-180mA, with an occasional dip into the 50's. The CPU usage is always just below 10%.
I've seen references all over the forums about users claiming low 40's and idle CPU usage around 3% and I'm wondering WHY I'm not able to achieve the same thing.
Now I've done all of the standard battery tweaks, tried various kernels, and can remember a time last fall when one kernel I flashed seemed to give me incredible battery life.
So...Let's hear what your average stand-by battery drain and CPU usage is.
(And any thoughts you might have about my battery situation)
Get 4.3.2 with more havs. It'll drop the voltages nice and low. When I had mikfroyo with netarchy 4.3.2 with setcpu screen off at 128mhz I had about 30-40 idle drain.
Sent from my (insert daily ROM name here) Evo 4g
I wouldn't worry too much about your idle current draw unless you're having a battery drain problem. The issue with the current draw methodology is it's taking the current consumption that instant in time. Unfortunately, you can't monitor instantaneous current draw without affecting the reading itself.
If you idle for an hour or two (or 5), and your battery only goes down 0-1%, i'd say you're in good shape. Also, it helps if you specify what software you're using to monitor these values with? Mine is based on Battery Monitor Widget (bmw).
Edit: There's more to cpu tweaks than just kernels. Along with kernels, there are governors, and then there are governor parameters. Each will directly affect your battery consumption and cpu load.
I'm definitely having a battery drain problem. At idle, it's falling 3-4% per hour, according to the Battery Monitor Widget.
I've got SetCPU set to 128min/998 max with Conservative scaling, and I've one profile enabled for Screen off settings of 128min/128max.
I did notice that when I try to set the min cpu to 128, the clock speeds jump all over the place. But if I set the min cpu to 245 it quiets right down.
Perhaps I a have CPU that's become finicky?
fsmith3x said:
I'm definitely having a battery drain problem. At idle, it's falling 3-4% per hour, according to the Battery Monitor Widget.
I've got SetCPU set to 128min/998 max with Conservative scaling, and I've one profile enabled for Screen off settings of 128min/128max.
I did notice that when I try to set the min cpu to 128, the clock speeds jump all over the place. But if I set the min cpu to 245 it quiets right down.
Perhaps I a have CPU that's become finicky?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had an issue similar to this where my battery would drain quicker than usual when the CPU min was set at 128 and having a screen off profile of 128/128. I think the problem stems from just setting the CPU way too low and having it use more power to bring the phone 'up to speed'. From my personal experience, I think you'll still be just as good setting your mins to 245, but by all means you're more than welcome to continue experimenting with 128
First off, you need to determine if you have a wake lock issue. Use "spare parts" to see. Look in the battery history, partial wake lock section. It will show you what programs are causing wake lock, and what amount of time they are in a state of wake lock.
Example, my phone was last off the charger 42 hours ago (awake time 7h36m), battery still at 32%, and should last the remainder of the day so long as I don't do too much data. My two biggest wake lock listings are Android system at 1h26m, and my email at 20m.
All it takes is 1 misbehaved program, or even a particular setting within a program to cause wake lock. If that is the cause, then regardless of what your sleep settings are, the phone will still draw the battery down quickly.
You can also look in "/sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/stats" at the time_in_state file using a text viewer/editor. It will show how much each cpu frequency is being utilized. I don't recall what unit it's in. But the point here is that if your 128/245 Mhz values are lower than your upper mhz values, something is not right.
The governor parameters will control how much cpu swing is occurring under various load. That is, if you're reading an email, there's little reason for the cpu to be pegged at 998mhz. These parameters control the thresholds (contingent upon which governor is used) at which the cpu scales up or down.
Edit: Each value in time_in_state represent 10ms, or .01seconds. So multiple each value below by .01 to get actual time in seconds. If you notice, the total time in us equal to my awake time of 7h36m, not total uptime.
Mine looks like this
Code:
Mhz cycles seconds
128000 1264017 12640
245000 201083 2011
384000 72728 727
422400 4 0
460800 133450 1335
499200 0 0
537600 72174 722
576000 53479 535
614400 78771 788
652800 38230 382
691200 0 0
729600 87258 873
768000 29579 296
806400 98273 983
844800 18476 185
883200 0 0
921600 599503 5995
960000 0 0
998400 2821 28
Total 2,749,846 27,498
27498seconds = 458min = 7.63h or 7h37m.
gpz1100 said:
Example, my phone was last off the charger 42 hours ago (awake time 7h36m), battery still at 32%, and should last the remainder of the day so long as I don't do too much data. My two biggest wake lock listings are Android system at 1h26m, and my email at 20m.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gpz1100, Please describe your setup and usage. I'm curious to know how you're getting that kind of battery life.
Anyway....
Good morning gang!
I gave this a couple of days for the fresh install to settle in, and hopefully let it learn how to use the battery more efficiently. But it's still a power hungry beast.
Yesterday I calculated it's use ate 3.9% an hour, based on battery % / time unplugged.
Mind you, I made 2 short phone calls yesterday, and checked my Exchange mail a few times throughout the day. No Angry birds while I'm trying to sort out batter life.
It's still using 100-150mA in standby, and it seems like the governor (SetCPU) is working like it should.
Right now the battery is at 97% and has been off the charger for 1.5 hours. That's 2% an hour. Which isn't bad, but I doubt the average will be that low by the end of the day.
For those of you who like numbers, here's some stats for you. Do you see anything that raises any red flags?
Looking at Spare Parts, in the wake lock section, I see these values.
Android System: 9m9s
UID 10020: 54s
Facebook: 39s
Voicemail: 30s
Mail: 14s
Maps: 11s
Tasker: 9s
WidgeLocker: 6s
Other Usage...
Running: 36.1%
Screen on: 16.7%
Phone on: .9%
Wifi On: 100%
Wifi Running: 100%
The values from my 'stats' file:
128000 0
245000 84095
384000 20371
422400 9
460800 0
499200 127
537600 4743
576000 100
614400 9
652800 75
691200 4238
729600 0
768000 23
806400 1358
844800 2439
883200 0
921600 0
960000 976
998400 18361
1036800 0
1075200 0
1113600 0
1152000 0
1190400 0
1228800 0
1267200 0
fsmith3x said:
gpz1100, Please describe your setup and usage. I'm curious to know how you're getting that kind of battery life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My setup is as described in the sig. The only additions would include custom conservative governor settings of 80/55/10 % on the up/down/freq steps thresholds; min/max cpu of 128/921 Mhz respectively. I don't use setcpu, tasker, or anything similar. Background updates is on, but nothing is checked (no gmail, facebook, etc.). I used to have email push enabled (using k9 mail), but decided to turn off push altogether, and just poll the server manually when I need to check email when away - little reason to getting emails as they come in if I have access to a computer at the same time.
I have found that even with wifi, the quality of your voice signal drastically affects battery life. I'd say I have average signal, (3-4 bars most of the time) for voice. However, sprint provided an airave because data speed is terrible here. A byproduct of the airave is it provides excellent voice signal. So, just with that in place, consumption while the phone is sleeping/idling is reduced by a good 10-20% over connecting to the tower directly. I'd say most of my usage is voice, some texting/emailing, and on occasion, heavy browsing. No games or videos, no facebook/twitter. It's hard to quantify use, but I think that's the bulk of it.
Yesterday I calculated it's use ate 3.9% an hour, based on battery % / time unplugged.
Mind you, I made 2 short phone calls yesterday, and checked my Exchange mail a few times throughout the day. No Angry birds while I'm trying to sort out batter life.
It's still using 100-150mA in standby, and it seems like the governor (SetCPU) is working like it should.
Right now the battery is at 97% and has been off the charger for 1.5 hours. That's 2% an hour. Which isn't bad, but I doubt the average will be that low by the end of the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you need to keep in mind, is that unless you're using an sbc kernel, your battery may or may not stay above 90% for too long after being removed from the charger. Unfortunately, battery consumption is not constant. Demand on the battery is changing depending on what the phone is doing. Also, 1.5 hrs really isn't a large enough time period to draw an accurate average from. Based on your cpu usage below, it indicates your device was actually on for 22 min.
Your wakelock numbers don't look bad, but the data is inconclusive. The question is, when these readings were taken, what was the up time, and what would you say was the time with the screen off (rough estimate is the diff between uptime and awake time). Leaving wifi on is a good idea, as it draws much less energy than using 3g.
One number that does seem surprising (assuming total run time of 1.5h's since removed from charger) is your running % of 36.1%. If the phone was not used during this time, that seems excessive. In fact, looking at the next value, screen on - 16.7%, would suggest that 20% of the awake time was when the screen was off.
I would start by disabling or uninstalling(if you use titanium backup, the FREEZE) tasker and widgetlocker. Running % - screen on % = % of time spent not sleeping even though the screen is off - things like receiving email, performing weather updates, etc...
OK, so I'm testing out custom auto brightness settings to share with everyone to help improve battery life, its definitely a wip and I need testers to help find the perfect balance of darkness vs being able to see the screen clearly
Auto brightness settings can be found in "settings>display>custom backlight settings>edit other levels" in many custom roms just make sure screen dim level is set to 1 and use custom is checked
OK, so far I have the following settings which seem OK though might be a little dark, please test and report back
Only change values in the "screen" column
5
7
10
13
17
20
24
25
30
40
50
60
65
70
85
95
115
135
165
255
(Last value is just to ensure max brightness in very strong light)
Good to see someone already started this thread. I have some settings I collected from xda and android forums that have been working well so far for my needs...
Window Length: 5 seconds
Reset Threshold: 400Lux
Sample Interval: 2sec
Screen Dim Level: 5
Allow Light Decrease : Yes
Lower Upper Screen
0 199 10
200 399 20
400 599 25
600 799 30
800 999 40
1000 1249 50
1250 1499 60
1500 1999 70
2000 2999 80
3000 3999 90
4000 5999 100
6000 9999 125
10000 ∞ 255
If anyone can tweak these and get better results by all means do share!
retareq said:
Good to see someone already started this thread. I have some settings I collected from xda and android forums that have been working well so far for my needs...
Window Length: 5 seconds
Reset Threshold: 400Lux
Sample Interval: 2sec
Screen Dim Level: 5
Allow Light Decrease : Yes
Lower Upper Screen
0 199 10
200 399 20
400 599 25
600 799 30
800 999 40
1000 1249 50
1250 1499 60
1500 1999 70
2000 2999 80
3000 3999 90
4000 5999 100
6000 9999 125
10000 ∞ 255
If anyone can tweak these and get better results by all means do share!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, i just tried these values, and for me its way to dark. I think that the display of the galaxy looks realy bad, if the value is under 1/4 of max.
retareq said:
Good to see someone already started this thread. I have some settings I collected from xda and android forums that have been working well so far for my needs...
Window Length: 5 seconds
Reset Threshold: 400Lux
Sample Interval: 2sec
Screen Dim Level: 5
Allow Light Decrease : Yes
Lower Upper Screen
0 199 10
200 399 20
400 599 25
600 799 30
800 999 40
1000 1249 50
1250 1499 60
1500 1999 70
2000 2999 80
3000 3999 90
4000 5999 100
6000 9999 125
10000 ∞ 255
If anyone can tweak these and get better results by all means do share!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think most slots should be raised by 5-10 for best visibility but I would suggest adding a slot or 2 at the beginning of it for best low light (mainly nighttime) settings
beama said:
Hi, i just tried these values, and for me its way to dark. I think that the display of the galaxy looks realy bad, if the value is under 1/4 of max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try my values? I think its a little easier to tweak some different light levels just to your liking, also the only thing that really doesn't look all that great are dark backgrounds on the home screen and launcher background but by raising some of the brightness levels by 5 or so at a time, its easily correctable... this is mainly to be a baseline guide since the stock values are wayyy to high in most cases
Fyi, before doing this I considered 2.5 hours on extended battery good, now I easily get 3+ even 4 hours on screen time with overclocking (1344 MHz) and interactive governor
I get 4 hours easy. I agree its a bit dark but I have no idea on what to modify because I don't really understand how its set up. To the guys who tried it already can you post your modified values that might be brighter ?
retareq said:
I get 4 hours easy. I agree its a bit dark but I have no idea on what to modify because I don't really understand how its set up. To the guys who tried it already can you post your modified values that might be brighter ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just try upping the values in the "screen" column by 5-10...even with increasing by 10 its still far lower than stock (stock setting has 50 as lowest value when even 15-25 should be plenty bright
To determine what level you are currently on look at the very top for filtered/raw values and see which level they fit between the first 2 columns (lower and upper)
Ok I tried metalspring way and this is what I have now :
Window Length: 10 seconds
Reset Threshold: 400Lux
Sample Interval: 10 seconds
Screen Dim Level: 10
Allow Light Decrease : Yes
Lower Upper Screen
0 199 20
200 399 25
400 599 35
600 799 45
800 999 55
1000 1249 65
1250 1499 75
1500 1999 85
2000 2999 95
3000 3999 105
4000 5999 115
6000 9999 125
10000 ∞ 255
Oh I also have the color calibrated from franco kernel app using the values suggested in app so I'm REALLY liking this now. No gradient banding or grain, looks sweeet.
updated: after todays field test I modified the values to allow for gradual dimming as much as possible. I will keep tweaking and posting results here.
Hi, how can I get gradual change like stock does? More values? Less? I hate the pop high/low u get with this
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
does it happen to anyone else that changing the number of levels/steps for custom auto brightness from the stock 20 to anything less causes the screen go go MAX (255) brightness?
miguel.b said:
does it happen to anyone else that changing the number of levels/steps for custom auto brightness from the stock 20 to anything less causes the screen go go MAX (255) brightness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to bring back this thread, but this is the exact issue that has shown up in CM10 ROMs and reported by quite a few users. If you use any number of levels other than 20, brightness is locked to 255 no matter what your thresholds or sensor is registering. Have you found any workaround or fix for this?
AuraspeeD said:
Not to bring back this thread, but this is the exact issue that has shown up in CM10 ROMs and reported by quite a few users. If you use any number of levels other than 20, brightness is locked to 255 no matter what your thresholds or sensor is registering. Have you found any workaround or fix for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really thought I was the only one. I have NOT found a work around unfortunately. Rather, I've just stayed with the stock steps/levels all the while. the behaviour is still present, and I've not found any other resource or posts on the issue.
I have brought this up in another thread over at rootzwiki and others have chimed in. Perhaps I'll create a brand new thread to acknowledge it (as opposed to responding to relevant threads already created) since it doesn't appear to be getting traction in finding a solution.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Hi everyone, finally I managed to calibrate my aged battery of HTC Desire. Anyway I'm stuck at this point:
theGanymedes said:
ADDENDUM:
Since the battery age value is somehow rewritten to 94% when you charge your phone off, I recommend editing the full40 value accordingly. In order to do that, first start and successfully complete a learning cycle; and then reboot (or power on/off). After this, you shall see the age value of your battery (say XX%).
Now, you should calculate "real" mAh value using this:
Code:
Code:
REAL Capacity = "Real" Full40 Value (1452 in Stock etc.) x Age Percentage (0.XX)
Now, we must recalculate the "fake" Full40 value and write it to EEPROM, so that our battery will be always calibrated (even charged off):
Code:
Code:
"Fake" Full40 = Real Capacity / 0.94
Write this value to Full40 assignment area in the Learn Prep app in the application, press Save and you're done.. Congrulatulations, you just calibrated your battery, even when it's charged off.
NOTE: Since some internal calculations also use Full40 value, I recommend you to write rounded to next value, rather than truncated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is simple math
But I want to make sure I'm not doing wrong - then being obliged to recalibrate again.
My real full40 value is 1452mAh, and Age% is 100%
Real capacity = 1452 x 0,100 = 145,2 ==> Is that so?
Fake Full40 = 145,2 / 0,94 = 155
Now I shall go to the LearnPrep tab and set that 155 value to Full40. Is that possible to set such a low value?
I'm sure I'm mistaking some calc :|
I guess the right calc for Fake Full40 is (1452x100)/94 = 1545.
Tell me please, and sorry for the nobbish question.
And thanks in advance.
Also I can't get this:
theGanymedes said:
Capacity (to set) * 15 (Rsns value) / 6.25 (constant) = AC register value
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where the hell do I know that "Capacity (to set)" number?
Maybe I am stupid, maybe my english comprehension is not perfect, maybe both.
But please, help me!
I think these LiION batteries reserve a certain percent of power to stop them fully discharging as that is quite bad for Li-IOn.
So for example, when you see 1% battery power there might actually be 6% left but the phone will power off to avoid damaging the battery.
I used an app on the app store to recalibrate my battery [Battery Calibrator
Jon Richards] based on a thread here somewhere. It worked and I went from gettign about 8 hours where the phone would power off to about 16 hours and I'd still have 10 - 20% left.
However, I think I might not have followed the instructions correctly and allowed the battery to discharge too much, damaging it. Last week my battery died - this could of course be coincidence but err on teh side of caution when playing around with Li-ion thresholds.
I may have also taken other steps - I can't remember - the whole adventure of prolonging battery life was quite a chore
Properly calibrating battery which gives you accurate readings and more battery life is
Follow these steps
1. Switched On phone charge till 100% and wait 1 hour more don't unplug charger, after that time unplug charger and power off your phone.
2. Charge your phone switched off till 100% then unplug charger
3. Switch on phone and again follow step 1, then unplug charger and reboot into recovery/advanced settings/ wipe battery status. Now turn on your phone again and follow step 1 and that's all.
Your battery will be properly calibrated enjoy friends
Sent from my GT-S5660 using xda premium
rakijaman said:
Properly calibrating battery which gives you accurate readings and more battery life is
Follow these steps
1. Switched On phone charge till 100% and wait 1 hour more don't unplug charger, after that time unplug charger and power off your phone.
2. Charge your phone switched off till 100% then unplug charger
3. Switch on phone and again follow step 1, then unplug charger and reboot into recovery/advanced settings/ wipe battery status. Now turn on your phone again and follow step 1 and that's all.
Your battery will be properly calibrated enjoy friends
Sent from my GT-S5660 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...1oCIBA&usg=AFQjCNHUrHK2SdcwIXgUdqFMed-PZcDJ7Q
i think u best read this
Sent from my HTC Desire
100% age after successful calibration
KengoNakamura said:
Hi everyone, finally I managed to calibrate my aged battery of HTC Desire. Anyway I'm stuck at this point:
That is simple math
But I want to make sure I'm not doing wrong - then being obliged to recalibrate again.
My real full40 value is 1452mAh, and Age% is 100%
Real capacity = 1452 x 0,100 = 145,2 ==> Is that so?
Fake Full40 = 145,2 / 0,94 = 155
Now I shall go to the LearnPrep tab and set that 155 value to Full40. Is that possible to set such a low value?
I'm sure I'm mistaking some calc :|
I guess the right calc for Fake Full40 is (1452x100)/94 = 1545.
Tell me please, and sorry for the nobbish question.
And thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also calibrated successfully and age was 100% .. so according to fake full40 formula it needs to be reset as 1452/0.94 = 1545 ;
can you answer what you did or how you approached further .. because 1545 does not seem to be proper value to be set
kindly reply...
Hello,
What's your current Battery Capacity of your HTC10?
It's supposed to be 3000mAh right? Tought so myself, but maybe my battery has been used too much already, or it never was that great.
How to find out?
If you have a Terminal app installed, simply type:
Code:
dumpsys batteryproperties
If you're on a Computer with ADB running, connect the phone and type:
Code:
adb shell
dumpsys batteryproperties
You will get a result similar to this:
Code:
htc_pmeuhl:/ $ dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 1 usb: 0 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 57 voltage: 4282 temp: 382
current now: -2140032
current now: -2141
Full charge: 2769000
And you see my point? Full charge: 2'769mAh That's like quite a bit too low.
So i asked a friend and he got this:
Code:
htc_pmewl:/ # dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 81 voltage: 4121 temp: 375
current now: 220183
current now: 220
Full charge: 3049000
Now then dear XDA we need as many results as possible, so if you can spare 5 minutes, please type this command and share your result.
And also mention how old your device is.
Mine is bought in May so almost a year old now.... and has seen some heavy usage^^
Update:
Using this trick you can RESET the Battery Sensor.
Black-FR said:
For those of you, with lower values.
Switch off the device.
Then push and hold all three buttons (power / volume up / volume down) for approximately 1-2 minutes.
This will reset the battery calculation.
In my case, I had a value of 27.... and after the reset, I'm back to the 3049000.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But Reset does not mean calibrate. 3049 is the Stock value set by manufacturer.
If you wan't to Calibrate the Battery i recommend:
using this Reset
Drain it until it reaches 0% and force shutdown the phone
Charge it for more than 3hours. 1.5h would be until 100%, let it connected for at least 2 more hours.
Drain it again until it reaches 0% and force shutdown.
Charge it again for more than 3hours.
After that, try the Command again and see the result.
Production Date related to Low Battery?
Let's see if the Devices with Low Battery are anyhow related
According to LlabTooFeR deciphering Serial Number goes like this:
FS YMD ID XXXXX
Where:
FS – Factory Site, it’s divided into
HT & TY: Taiwan Taoyuan A factory
FA & 5A: Taiwan Taoyuan B factory
SZ & SC: China SuZhou
SH & KC: China ShangHai KQ factory
HC & KD: China ShangHai KD factory
LC: LongCheer (Mainly ODM/MTK devices)
CC: CEI (Mainly ODM/MTK devices)
YMD – Year/Month/Day
Y (Year): the last digit of the year in which the product was produced
M (Month): 1-9=Jan.-Sep.; A-C=Oct.-Dec.
D (Day): 1-9=1-9; A-Z=10-31
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F G H J K L M N P R S T V W X Y Z
ID – Device ID
For example M9 is YJ, M8 is WM, M7 is W9, Desire EYE is Y8 and etc…
XXXXX – is the identification number of the device produced in the specific day. It’s calculated in decimal system.
So lets, take as example serial number FA 4AY Y8 04757 and figure how this is working:
FA – Taiwan Taoyuan B factory
4AY – 2014/10/30
Y8 – Desire EYE
04757 – this is 04757 unit produced on the Taiwan Taoyuan B factory 2014/10/30
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source: http://llabtoofer.com/2015/12/14/htc-devices-serial-number-explanation/
So mine was produced in Taiwan Taoyuan B, 2016 April 12th, BN should be HTC10 Device 01XXX (1000 devices Privacy should be enough)
Thanks for your cooperation,
Greetz
haldi
Code:
ac: 0 usb: 0 wireless: 0 current_max: 1500000
status: 3 health: 2 present: 1
level: 40 voltage: 3764 temp: 305
current now: 373075
Purchased in June 2016.
Sent from my HTC 10
I get this:
Code:
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 5 health: 2 present: 1
level: 100 voltage: 4405 temp: 200
current now: -102691
current now: -124
Full charge: 3049000
Purchased July 19th
Code:
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 63 voltage: 3955 temp: 332
current now: -266874
current now: 304
Full charge: 3049000
Last minute pre-order
Code:
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 51 voltage: 3830 temp: 370
current now: -289762
current now: 583
Full charge: 3091000
Purchased Dec 2016.
Holy crap it's degrading....
Code:
htc_pmeuhl:/ # dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 0 usb: 0 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 3 health: 2 present: 1
level: 98 voltage: 4286 temp: 282
current now: 269316
current now: 336
Full charge: 2492100
Anyone knows of a way to reset battery sensor stats on this phone?
The dry to absolutely zero and shutdown then charge is the next thing I'm trying.
When I type the command into terminal app, I get unknown error. Do I need root for that to work?
Haldi4803 said:
Holy crap it's degrading....
Code:
htc_pmeuhl:/ # dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 0 usb: 0 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 3 health: 2 present: 1
level: 98 voltage: 4286 temp: 282
current now: 269316
current now: 336
Full charge: 2492100
Anyone knows of a way to reset battery sensor stats on this phone?
The dry to absolutely zero and shutdown then charge is the next thing I'm trying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the exact thing I was affraid will happen. I think this degradation is due to quick charge. Sure, it's nice to have your 3000 mAh battery charged in under one hour, but the price of it? Battery degradation... I don't belive HTC went Samsung on us, giving us faulty batteries
Hmmm.....
[email protected]_pmeuhl:/ $ dumpsys batteryproperties
dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 curren_max: 1500000
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 92 voltage: 4265 temp: 272
current now: -281523
[email protected]_pmeuhl:/ $
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does this say now? I do not receive full charge line as output. ... maybe mine is not fully charged? Could it be it shows you the capacity (mah) remaining scaled according to your current charging level.
If this was the case maybe the battery shows 100 % while it was not completely cycled to 100 percent due to quick charge. Maybe you want to try when it is really full.
Correct me if i am wrong, please. I will try the command again in a while when mine reaches 100 percent from USB. Then im going to enter the output result here:
Reading here about Quick Charge 3 in the meantime:
http://www.androidauthority.com/quick-charge-3-0-explained-643053/
Thats what i meant. The last few values might take much longer until it is "really" full. That might take up to an hour then.
Now it shows me the green LED (still no such Line):
ac:0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current max: 1500000
status: 5 health: 2 present: 1
level: 100 voltage: 4404 temp: 250
current now: -228880
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i can not join your poll?
Full charge: 3049000, 7months old.
Mostly i charge via PC, rarely i use quick charger. Its just pure logic that quick charger shortens battery life, short and long term, its just how batteries work..
donkeykong1 said:
This is the exact thing I was affraid will happen. I think this degradation is due to quick charge. Sure, it's nice to have your 3000 mAh battery charged in under one hour, but the price of it? Battery degradation... I don't belive HTC went Samsung on us, giving us faulty batteries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you are right. That's why I recommend to use a non-QC-3.0-charger (such as one by Anker with IQ charge for example). And/or I have found some code lines anywhere. I have searched for it in the forum, but I haven't found it anymore and I didn't remember who has made it. I have only re-written the code lines a bit, added some lines and created a script. So this is not my work, I would give credits to the person who was written the lines, but unfortunately, I don't remember where I found this.
So what does this script do? It limits the charging current to 800mA. That's why the phone will charge slower of course, but the battery will be spared. Another thing is that the phone will only charge till 90%, which spares the battery as well.
You can always run this script in a terminal with root access. Run it just before you start charging and you will be fine. I haven't managed to get it run automatically unfortunately. By all means, enjoy! (and remove the .txt at the end)
htc_pmewl:/ $ dumpsys batteryproperties
ac: 0 usb: 1 wireless: 0 current_max: 0 voltage_max: 0
status: 2 health: 2 present: 1
level: 66 voltage: 3967 temp: 202
current now: -299528
current now: 234
Full charge: 3049000
mine is 8 months old and I always use quick charge at home and in the car, I do not think this issue is related to quickcharging the device, might be a bad batch of batteries maybe ....
Fullcharge: 3045000
Bought May 2016...were the first available.
Used quick charger maybe to times...but most of the times I use my SuperCharger with 1.5A output on my laptop.
Since I debug/develop a lot on it, it's connected there nearly the whole day when I'm at home.
RogerF81 said:
I think you are right. That's why I recommend to use a non-QC-3.0-charger (such as one by Anker with IQ charge for example). And/or I have found some code lines anywhere. I have searched for it in the forum, but I haven't found it anymore and I didn't remember who has made it. I have only re-written the code lines a bit, added some lines and created a script. So this is not my work, I would give credits to the person who was written the lines, but unfortunately, I don't remember where I found this.
So what does this script do? It limits the charging current to 800mA. That's why the phone will charge slower of course, but the battery will be spared. Another thing is that the phone will only charge till 90%, which spares the battery as well.
You can always run this script in a terminal with root access. Run it just before you start charging and you will be fine. I haven't managed to get it run automatically unfortunately. By all means, enjoy! (and remove the .txt at the end)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those values doesnt seam to be correct, HTC has one extra digit
echo 800000 > /sys/class/power_supply/battery/constant_charge_current_max
800 000 while mine shows curent 290 000 0
So that script needs fixing if you attempt to use it
EDIT:
Also changing values doesnt work, it immediately reverts to original values..
ivicask said:
Those values doesnt seam to be correct, HTC has one extra digit
echo 800000 > /sys/class/power_supply/battery/constant_charge_current_max
800 000 while mine shows curent 290 000 0
So that script needs fixing if you attempt to use it
EDIT:
Also changing values doesnt work, it immediately reverts to original values..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this is completely right and as I want it to be. 2900000 means 2,9A means QC 3.0. But I want to limit it to 0,8A, means 800 mA, means 800000 cause this is a safe value for batteries. This is ok:good:
The advised charge rate of an Energy Cell is between 0.5C and 1C; the complete charge time is about 2–3 hours. Manufacturers of these cells recommend charging at 0.8C or less to prolong battery life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries) (C means current, its unit is 1A)
And for me it's working correctly. This script runs every 3 minutes and therefore the values should persist. Don't know why this isn't working for you...
https://twitter.com/TeamVenomROMs/status/820945706814939136
retweet pls (-:
RogerF81 said:
No, this is completely right and as I want it to be. 2900000 means 2,9A means QC 3.0. But I want to limit it to 0,8A, means 800 mA, means 800000 cause this is a safe value for batteries. This is ok:good:
And for me it's working correctly. This script runs every 3 minutes and therefore the values should persist. Don't know why this isn't working for you...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im connected to PC, and output shows 290 000 0, man if im drawing 3amps from PC it would explode
Ampere shows around 300mA of charging current..
But also im on stock kernel that may be a reason it doesnt work for me.
BTW, did you take in account that its not all about current, it uses different voltages also depending on what type of charging is done, you can see this differences on original htc charger.(think there is 3 different voltages and currents for charging)
ivicask said:
Im connected to PC, and output shows 290 000 0, man if im drawing 3amps from PC it would explode
Ampere shows around 300mA of charging current..
But also im on stock kernel that may be a reason it doesnt work for me.
BTW, did you take in account that its not all about current, it uses different voltages also depending on what type of charging is done, you can see this differences on original htc charger.(think there is 3 different voltages and currents for charging)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, then Ampere shows it right:good: So where do you see that output?
And yeah but I can only influence the charging rate, not the voltages. And I think the battery itself always uses the same voltage, only the charger's voltage can change as you mentioned (5V/2.4A or 9V 1,7A for example). And this is all about the output of for example 24W which stays constantly. All in all, the kernel controls the charging current and I want it to be limited. On top, only charging current should influence the battery health, as this is the amount of elecrical enegery which "flows into" the battery.
But yeah, I think it's complicated:laugh:
I think M7 had both voltage and current charge control, so the original charger from my M7 should charge my 10 just fine. If QC proves to have a bad impact on battery capacity, I'll simply use the good old M7's charger ?
donkeykong1 said:
I think M7 had both voltage and current charge control, so the original charger from my M7 should charge my 10 just fine. If QC proves to have a bad impact on battery capacity, I'll simply use the good old M7's charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage charge control? How does this work?
I learned that voltage is the amount of "current" that could be transported and that the amperage is the amount of "current" which is actually transported. So I don't know how the voltage could be controlled, it should be limited to hardware and the "kernels" of the charger and the device could change it as required.