Develop Bugs

Better control over brightness

For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.

arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.

For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.

arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.

To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.

arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.

I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.

I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..

1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).

arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.

msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.

arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.

msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.

[Q] AOKP Screen Brightness

The lowest brightness setting is not dim enough for me in low light conditions so I've been looking to alter it.
After reading around the capabilities of some apps it seems that they only add an overlay which reduces contrast. I would much prefer to do it natively.
I then realised that the AOKP ROM has this functionality!
However, I can't seem to get it to work.
Settings>Display>Custom backlight settings
Changing the screen dim level doesn't seem to change anything for me.
Can anyone offer some tips or advice?
Thanks

Works fine for me. I know it doesn't help your problem any...

danger-rat said:
Works fine for me. I know it doesn't help your problem any...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your display dim more when you select a lower than default value or did you have to change something else?

Did you change the corresponding value in "Edit Other Levels" as well (if you're on auto brightness)? Not on AOKP, but mine is fully functional both on manual, and auto.
Their implementation is the same as CM9 (which is nearly identical, if not the same as the CM7 implementation).
Edit: just a thought, not sure if the AOKP status bar brightness slider is hardcoded to a certain minimum level? Are the results the same if you adjust your brightness via the Settings>Display>Brightness slider?

Settings>Rom Control>Performance>color multipliers.
Drag the three bars all the way down.
As far as your problem...
Are you on auto brightness?
And have you adjusted the "Dim Level" prior to adjusting the screen levels?
(Dim Level is the level your screen dims to after not touching it for 15 seconds or whatever).

Jubakuba said:
And have you adjusted the "Dim Level" prior to adjusting the screen levels?
(Dim Level is the level your screen dims to after not touching it for 15 seconds or whatever).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Screen dim level is the minimum brightness value attainable (I lower mine to 12 so I can enter a screen value of 12 in my custom levels), but also does correspond to what you mentioned.

Another AOKP user expressed similar concerns but found an app called Root Dim or something that solved his problem.

OpusX11 said:
Another AOKP user expressed similar concerns but found an app called Root Dim or something that solved his problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The implementation must be still broken then; haven't tested the latest AOKP releases. Root dim apps tend to create lag.

Implementation works perfectly here.

Jubakuba said:
Implementation works perfectly here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same.

Jubakuba said:
Implementation works perfectly here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attaining an altered screen dim level when on auto as well?
Edit: comment wasn't an indictment; just remembering issues that were there on b35 or b36 (?).
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Yep.

Microwave. said:
Does your display dim more when you select a lower than default value or did you have to change something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I select a lower than normal default brightness, and it appears to just work. The auto brightness decreases, which is what i was looking for at night, and also the overall min brightness decreases. The max brightness seems unaffected...

remember when making these changes you do have to save and apply. many people forget that step.

tspderek said:
remember when making these changes you do have to save and apply. many people forget that step.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's an especially annoying mis-step after entering 23 custom levels.

CMNein said:
That's an especially annoying mis-step after entering 23 custom levels.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.
And no offense taken at all, man.
And me personally, I just use 5 levels.
One that goes all the way to 600[whateverambientlightismeasuredby] and a screen level of 5.
This keeps my phone from dicking about with it's brightness when I'm indoors...and I have no problem reading it. I don't mind a super-dim screen in general.
The remaining levels I ramp up fairly aggressively for two "by a window" scenarios...
And outside.
And OMGSUNNY outside.

Jubakuba said:
Lol.
And no offense taken at all, man.
And me personally, I just use 5 levels.
One that goes all the way to 600[whateverambientlightismeasuredby] and a screen level of 5.
This keeps my phone from dicking about with it's brightness when I'm indoors...and I have no problem reading it. I don't mind a super-dim screen in general.
The remaining levels I ramp up fairly aggressively for two "by a window" scenarios...
And outside.
And OMGSUNNY outside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I add 2 levels for the high end, and reduce the other brightness levels considerably. Ultimately I usually end up with the perfect'ish level for most scenarios. I hate having to adjust brightness the old fashioned way
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

CMNein said:
Screen dim level is the minimum brightness value attainable (I lower mine to 12 so I can enter a screen value of 12 in my custom levels), but also does correspond to what you mentioned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which values do you change in the custom levels?
OpusX11 said:
Another AOKP user expressed similar concerns but found an app called Root Dim or something that solved his problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I know an app could potentially solve the problem but I don't like using 3rd party apps when the solution can be more elegantly achieved using native tweaks.
Jubakuba said:
Lol.
And no offense taken at all, man.
And me personally, I just use 5 levels.
One that goes all the way to 600[whateverambientlightismeasuredby] and a screen level of 5.
This keeps my phone from dicking about with it's brightness when I'm indoors...and I have no problem reading it. I don't mind a super-dim screen in general.
The remaining levels I ramp up fairly aggressively for two "by a window" scenarios...
And outside.
And OMGSUNNY outside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you send me a screenshot of your custom levels, that sounds like the exact thing I'm after - a dimmer screen in general, and having a lower min brightness.
So am I correct in thinking that you need to lower the dim value in order to set lower values in the custom levels?

[FIX] Optimum Color Control Values for Purple Screen/Grain Issue [JB]

Well, after 5 months of looking out for the best values, I've experimented and all and found out these to be the best. Even at lowest brightness, the screen is crisp and clear just like it's supposed to be.
People who have the Purple Screen issue, I highly recommend you use these values.
Requirements -
1. Franco Kernel Updater (TKT wouldn't give that much brightness/crispyness to the screen)
2. ICS Gradient Fix (Check Signature)
3. Franco Kernel
First up, flash Franco's latest kernel.
Secondly, make sure you don't have any 2 or more applications which have Color Control options (Like, Franco Kernel Updater and TKT - Remove TKT and stay with Franco). If you do have 2 or more installed, please set all values to default on all applications including Franco's. (In TKT, click on menu and select reset preferences and reboot).
Third, fire up Franco Kernel Updater and get to the CC options and set these :
Color Multipliers -
Red - 280
Green - 292
Blue - 350
Gamma -
Red - 4
Green - 0
Blue - 9
Disable Contrast Adaptive Brightness - Yes (Tick)
Contrast Control : -24
OMAP Gamma - 1.2
These values work BEST with MoDaCo's JB Build. Tested on Jr1, Jr.1.1, Jr2.
Please note : This is simply a band aid, not a total fix. The purple screen and grain issue is probably a hardware issue. This settings are extremely crisp on my device. You need to get adapted to them.
Thanks to -
1. Franco for his amazing kernel and application.
2. Morfic for introducing contrast control into the kernel world and of course for his kindness. (You're the sweetest developer I've talked to).
Best of luck with these settings guys!
Please, don't forget to click "Thanks"!

It made everything look over-saturated for me.. plus, is it safe to jack up the settings like this?
It did improve the grainy screen on low brightness problem, though.

Well, i think the best values i've EVER Seen.
Oh dear, so f****ng awesome.
via Google Galaxy Nexus

Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Thank you for this! By far the best optimization of colors I've ever seen. Maybe colors are a bit over-saturated but thats how Super AMOLED should produce.

Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium

craigbailey1986 said:
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try reducing every multiplier value by 40. 280 to 240, 292 to 252 and 300 to 260.

This can never be an all-in-one "fix" because of the way screen technology works. Everyone's screen will have different degrees of the problem itself (purple tint & grain), on top of that they will all have a slightly different color temperature, contrast level, saturation etc. By providing the values that worked for you, you're just going to have a thread where half the people think it looks great, half think it looks awful, and everyone thinks everyone else is crazy.
A better idea might be to describe the steps you took to arrive at your own numbers, things you looked for, how you tweaked them to get to the best values.

Look Excellent to me - Screen absolutely Pops, so vivid and the gradient issues are not visible.
Thanks so much!

Those high values are gonna kill your screen

OP settings work well for me (similar to my 200 215 280, -2 0 10, -23, CAB off), but OMAP always makes things worse IMO. With OMAP at 1.2 I instantly see banding again where with it off the gradients are smooth. OP settings with OMAP 1.0 are excellent however, reducing the magenta and yellowing I was seeing with my others. I am worried about the burn-in though..

What's this about burn in? Do these settings cause it?

I sort-of mispoke. Burn-in is possible, but high multipliers are more worried to wear out those pixels/degrade them faster.
Edit: I'm going for more of a "Trinity Blue" sort of solution now: 215 235 280, -2 0 15, -24, CAD off, OMAP unset. Still trying to find that balance that gets rid of the magenta/yellow at all points.

Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!

I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz

for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25

Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
strumcat said:
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

arzbhatia said:
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been discussed few times already - going above 200 can lead to screen burn in. On SAMOLED screens blue color wear out first and peeps really shouldn't touch this setting. Better set lower red/green values. Screen will look a bit darker so don't cranck up contrast too much, -10 should be good enough.

herzzreh said:
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the graphs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29037317&postcount=1

herzzreh said:
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see where your gamma should by by installing the free version of Display Tester from the Play Store. Go to Color, Gamma, and slide the gray screen to the left to see the red page. Find the vertical bar that most closely matches the red bacground. The number on that bar is where your gamma should be set for that color. Mine is spot on at 2.3. Then slide to green page and do the same. Then the blue page. My green gamma reading is 2.8, meaning it isn't quite as bright as the red or blue, so I have to turn it up a hair. My blue is good at 2.3. The adjustment sliders in TKT only give me whole-number choices, so I get as close as possible with 2, 3, 2. I'm just guessing there, since TKT doesn't have normal gamma increments. Anyway good luck taming your gamma.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz

Nexus Screen

A friend of mine got a little problem.
His screen went "crazy" , it displayed a "negative" effect on colours (I think like the negative effect that photos editor have) for a while, and then turn back by default (not the values he set in the first time through trickster mod).
My question is, what problemi is this? Do someone have encoutered this? Is it a good idea to lower the values of the screen?
he got
-15
0
-4,0,5
240 245 275
Xenon Hd and Lean Kernel

AkaGrey said:
A friend of mine got a little problem.
His screen went "crazy" , it displayed a "negative" effect on colours (I think like the negative effect that photos editor have) for a while, and then turn back by default (not the values he set in the first time through trickster mod).
My question is, what problemi is this? Do someone have encoutered this? Is it a good idea to lower the values of the screen?
he got
-15
0
-4,0,5
240 245 275
Xenon Hd and Lean Kernel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is a post by marhensa that might help you decide regd colors.
Be careful with too high colors as warned below.
marhensa said:
actually, every device suffers different screen defect.. in its own degree.
some suffers the yellow which too strong.. (yellowish)
some suffers the purplish color..
at its own degree.
so my opinion is,
it's better to find out the correct RGB combination value of your device (and also it's up to your personal taste)
mine is R=140, G=136, B=200.
but, like i said, it may looks weird when it's applied to yours..
one thing for sure is,
do not set it too high.
200 is enough.
(at least it's what cm rom says when we tried to tune the color combination)
more than 200 and then your color could be "drained" faster,
also your screen could "burned" much faster, because it's amoled..
cmiiw.
---
Sent from Android Device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope this helps

If turn my individual color gamma values too low in trickster mod I get a completely green screen. I've never had it happen any other time and my screen looks amazing. I figure setting the values that low equates to being an invalid value. I don't think anything is wrong.

[Q] Z1compact: getting minimum brightness LOWER

Hello Everyone,
I have a problem with my amami and I doubt I am the only one but for some reason people do hardly complain: the brightness even at lowest possible setting is still too bright.
I had this back when I had original FW and I am having the same issue with CM11 (latest nightlies). Using manual control or auto-brightness doesn't make much difference, i.e. in a totally dark room the ambient light sensor reports 0Lux and the screen is still too bright.
I found a workaround already (the ScreenFilter app that people recommend all over the internet) but it sucks because it heavily reduces the picture quality, i.e. visibly reduces contrast and especially the gray color resolution. And it also doesn't reduce power consumption like real brightness value change would do.
I looked around for possible solutions and there is a trick with writting a new value of current limit to Linux settings (some mA value between 0 and 20 to some max_current file in procfs). And this really helps but also impacts the maximum brightness, the screen is hardly ready in sun light with reduced current.
Is there a silver bullet? I am thinking about writing an app for that but it would require SU permissions and is kinda dirty to implement. Can anyone recommend a better solution?

have you tried the xposed Modul "minimum brightness" ?

Install Lux Brightness. from play store.
You can overboost it or make the screen so dark that you can't even see it.
Another great screen mod is Twilight which basically dims the screen red based on clock so it helps fall sleep faster when using phone before bed.

New Folder said:
Install Lux Brightness. from play store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, another vote for Lux. It lets you set brightness to negative levels, mine is usually around -50%. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vito.lux&hl=en

Vote for Lux here too.
Nothing comes close

camaro322hp said:
Yes, another vote for Lux. It lets you set brightness to negative levels, mine is usually around -50%. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vito.lux&hl=en
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Thanks for the hint. I tried the Lite version and AFAICS it simply uses the same trick as ScreenFilter and other "sub-zero" regulators, putting an alpha overlay on top of the image stack.
You can identify this kludge easily by looking at the button areas, they don't get darker anymore. And you can see the black level not getting real black, i.e. the power consumption is not reduced.
However, Lux seems to be one of the better toys because of the plugin interface. Unfortunately there is no HW plugin for Sony devices but judging by the quick look at the Nexus-4 plugin (it's open source!!) it should be possible to adopt this method to Z1 as well. So, maybe when someone could eventually implement that.

xposed Modul "minimum brightness" works, i tested it for you. you can make the screen dim to complete black with your normal display brightness slider without grey or black overlay. it just sets down the minimum brightness level to 1 or 0 (default is 10 or 20), so it should also work with enabled auto brightness

chertVdetali said:
I looked around for possible solutions and there is a trick with writting a new value of current limit to Linux settings (some mA value between 0 and 20 to some max_current file in procfs). And this really helps but also impacts the maximum brightness, the screen is hardly ready in sun light with reduced current.
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As far as i remember, /proc is only used to call upon information, not to set specific values. What you are looking for is placed within /sys.
To be precise in /sys/devices/leds-qpnp-ee125e00/leds/wled:backlight/. There you will find a file called max_current with which you can easily control the brightness and set it to a very low level. Note that this actually dims the screen and not just applies a filter like most apps do...
One drawback is that the value will change again after you restarted the device. I set up a little flow with Automate β that takes care of this for me. I find this solution a lot better than all the screen filter apps.
This is true for CyanogenMod 11 and GreatDevs Kernel. It might be different on Stock. I know that the path for my Nexus 7 is sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight.
I hope this helps you a little bit.

rob rich said:
xposed Modul "minimum brightness" works, i tested it for you. you can make the screen dim to complete black with your normal display brightness slider without grey or black overlay. it just sets down the minimum brightness level to 1 or 0 (default is 10 or 20), so it should also work with enabled auto brightness
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I am wondering how you can claim that the result is complete black. Calling this black is like saying "TN monitors have good black values" (I know such people, they change their mind quickly when they see my Eizo with a VA panel at night).
No, seriously, the default was already 10 (see config.xml in cm11 repo) and the difference between 1 and 10 is hardly visible. It's still way too bright for work without eye strain in the darkness.
@Wooaarr: thanks, this is apparently the way to go, I just need to find time to configure it. And yes, of course, the file is in sysfs and not procfs (automated typing, when I grew up with Linux there was no sysfs out there ).

chertVdetali said:
I am wondering how you can claim that the result is complete black. Calling this black is like saying "TN monitors have good black values" (I know such people, they change their mind quickly when they see my Eizo with a VA panel at night).
No, seriously, the default was already 10 (see config.xml in cm11 repo) and the difference between 1 and 10 is hardly visible. It's still way too bright for work without eye strain in the darkness.
@Wooaarr: thanks, this is apparently the way to go, I just need to find time to configure it. And yes, of course, the file is in sysfs and not procfs (automated typing, when I grew up with Linux there was no sysfs out there ).
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when i disable autobrightness and push the slider to the left my screen goes completely off, so you wanna say that screen off isnt black? funny

chertVdetali said:
Thanks for the hint. I tried the Lite version and AFAICS it simply uses the same trick as ScreenFilter and other "sub-zero" regulators, putting an alpha overlay on top of the image stack.
You can identify this kludge easily by looking at the button areas, they don't get darker anymore. And you can see the black level not getting real black, i.e. the power consumption is not reduced.
However, Lux seems to be one of the better toys because of the plugin interface. Unfortunately there is no HW plugin for Sony devices but judging by the quick look at the Nexus-4 plugin (it's open source!!) it should be possible to adopt this method to Z1 as well. So, maybe when someone could eventually implement that.
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Click to collapse
Interesting information, I did not know that. You are correct, the navigation buttons are brighter than the rest of the screen at negative values. I had noticed that before but didn't know why. Works well enough for me though.

rob rich said:
when i disable autobrightness and push the slider to the left my screen goes completely off, so you wanna say that screen off isnt black? funny
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Well, you claim that it works for me because you tested it on your device. So... yeah, why not, I could say what you mentioned above just following the same logics. :silly: