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Can anyone please recommend some REALLY power saving Radio rom?
I'm currently using 1.54.30
I like 1.54.07.00. Its a good compromis between power and battery drain.
I think 1.47 was the version with the lowest battery drain for me yet...
1.47.00.10 seems to do the job for me.. moderate usage of voice & data (UMTS 2100)..
thank you so much for responding... i will try 1.54.07...
yes, 1.47 is the best radio I also have used.
i'm trying 1.54.07...using it now...will see how is the battery drainage...
what is so good about 1.47 anyway? just to compare...
2 cents on this topic - the observation of battery drain is somewhat subjective. I'd suggest someone do an extended test where the phone has a current drain logging program and track drain for each phone mode - data connection - transfer / phone use / idle and do a statistical comparison.
With a lack of good data? I'd think that the latest rev would have changes for some reason - hopefully a good one.
I'm using the latest 1.54 without performance issues.
hi all
I am using 1.54.07.00 radio, I use to get call from my gf every night for straight 3 hours. All these time my wifi is also active. Most of the days I get 40-50% of battery after I finish the call. So I think it is pretty impressive, isnt it?
Cheers
Jish
I'm working on a way to evaluate this.. I agree with mattk_r that it will probably vary drastically by region, usage, configuration, network, etc. But at least for my case, wi-fi is almost always off and my phone is in 'sleep'/'suspend' with Flexmail email running an IDLE (PUSH) IMAP email session in the background. Just a note, the way this works, the phone still gets to sleep and anytime a packet/data is received over the GPRS/3G connection the phone is woken up in unattended mode (no backlight) so that the maill app can process the message and notification then the phone returns to sleep state. So my goal is to pseudo-scientifically figure out which radio works best for my use.
To figure that out I have written a pair of programs that simulate the IMAP IDLE connection of an email client. (Why not use the real thing? I want the experiment to be the same everytime I run it, I can't guarantee that with email and software that I don't know the intricacies of.) One half runs on the phone to simulate the phone email client, and one half runs on a server that sends periodic messages to the phone to wake it up. When the phone is waken up it sends its current estimate of the battery life remaining (as reported by Windows API) to the server for logging.
In order to run my tests, everynight I have/plan to do the following procedure.
Flash a new radio to the phone for test
Charge the battery fully
Soft-Reset phone
Run my program
And then in the morning I dump the server log and generate a nice pretty graph of battery remaining v. hours on. This has obvious deficiencies such as
The phone never actually moves, it is on my nightstand so this won't simulate an active day where the radio is having to select the best tower.
When I wake up my battery is not dead, so I am not able to measure time from total charge to total discharge.
Even with these deficiencies and possibly more, I believe that this will give a decent benchmark as to which radios perform better than others. (in terms of battery life) So far I have conducted this for 2 nights and 2 radios, both running in 2G mode. The next two nights I will probably re-run the tests for 3G enabled just to see if that causes a significant change in the result.
So see this pretty graph to see what's happened so far... I'll post updates as I progress.
Oh yeah, I'm on ATT/Cingular Network in USA/TX.
Results in summary:
So far, I have tested radios 1.47.30.10 and 1.54.30.10 and gotten practically identical results for battery life. In my day of use for each radio, I have not noticed any call quality issues with either radio.
Other techniques: ?
There probably are other techniques to accomplish this, such as a program that measures battery discharge current. My gut feeling is to not trust these for this analysis because those programs typically have a low sampling rate and I don't know where they get there information and if that is a reliable source. And the other problem, I haven't found any such programs that can do it when the phone decides to go into the sleep mode and radio is having to maintain an idle but yet present connection to the cellular network.
Feedback anyone? Ideas?
dear experts, i've flashed 1.54.07 radio rom, but i soon discovered that i've lost my HSDPA connection to network. now i can only have 3G connection. Even though i tried to enable HSDPA in Schap's Config...but still no result...
Help please...or please suggest which radio rom which has got HSDPA enabled...
p/s: i think 1.54.07 is power consumption friendly becoz it has disable HSDPA connection...
what do u guys think?
HSDPA is enabled in that rom. Been using it with pandora naked rom with no issues whatsoever.
that's weird...hmmm....I'm using Schap's 3.57a ROM...previously have HSDPA b4 i upgrade to this rom...
mattk_r said:
2 cents on this topic - the observation of battery drain is somewhat subjective. I'd suggest someone do an extended test where the phone has a current drain logging program and track drain for each phone mode - data connection - transfer / phone use / idle and do a statistical comparison.
With a lack of good data? I'd think that the latest rev would have changes for some reason - hopefully a good one.
I'm using the latest 1.54 without performance issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
INDEED !!!
I was go with 1.54.30... then I have a trouble to find "3G" (somethimes it was hard to find "E") then I switch back to 1.50.00... and everything is ok (I mean from the same place I live, I found "3G" successfully). The battery drain should be have relation with the connection and that's vary in other country IMHO
Still on 1.43 and seem to be doing just fine with battery life. Maybe I will try the 1.47
Switch to 1.50.00....HSDPA returns...
So i can presume that 1.54.07 has got no HSDPA enabled for power saving...
What say experts?
Greetings all --
I am posting this request for help because I've exhausted just about every other resource. The community support and documentation is great and I have learned quite a bit in a matter of days. You all are great!
Here's my situation. I have the HTC 8900 (KAIS110). Not the 8925 like most seem to have. It is my understanding that 3 versions of the "Kaiser" were made, or at least submitted to FCC for approval, and that the 8900 was to go to AT&T (branded on phone), but was canceled in lieu of the 8925. This is the non-camera version.
For reference, the following information is listed in the battery compartment:
HTC 8900
KAIS110
FCC ID: NM8KS
SKU: 64760
P/N: 99HCY091-00
Made in Taiwan
Currently:
HardSPL 3.56
Radio: 1.71.09.01
Myn's Warm Donut RLS5
kallt_kaffe's kernel 2010-06-06 (kaiser/240x320/donut/panel 2/tilt options used in LoserSkaters NBH Editor)
Problems:
1. Installing OS (Sys+Data on NAND), dmesg output shows "Block 711 is bad". Under normal circumstances, this wouldn't be a problem as the OS would remap to a new block. This could also be an issue with yaffs, or a few other things, and not even be bad. But the question remains, is this causing problems?
2. Attempting to run Calibrate Screen results in error with the following message: "The application Calibrate Screen (process org.isageek.dasbrennen.CalibrateScreen) has stopped unexpectedly. Please try again. [Force close]". I have not seen a recent post in response to whether this problem persists with all builds, or if I am just lucky like that.
3. GPS does not want to play nice. From the app store, I install GPS by Andrea Baccega. Sometimes I get a single satellite to display, once I saw 3 on screen. Unfortunately, none of the other fields (long/lat) were populated which tells me something is wrong.
Dmesg output:
GPS:env_mask=0
GPS:date=00002000
GPS:time=000000 hlat=0 llat=0 hlng=0 llng=0
GPS:speed=0 bearing=0
GPS: has been tickled!
4. Using the phone on T-Mobile, why can I not get 3G working? It keeps going back to EDGE. I have the Android data plan as well.
5. Voice search is quite flaky. Sometimes it works great once, maybe a few times in a row, and then it just stops working and presents me with the Try Again / Cancel screen, after which, there is no longer audio for phone calls. From what I can tell using Dev Tools, looks like VoiceSearch is hanging due to an issue with Mediaserver. I recall seeing this issue, or a similar one, surface in the forums but there was not much information pertaining to it that I could find.
6. The following errors appear in the dmesg output; I am posting the list just in case one or more messages are beyond the scope of normal operations:
mmc1: host does not support reading read-only switch. assuming ite-enable.
Init: cannot open '/initlogo.rle'
[RR] ERROR no local ept for prog 02000031 replying anyway!!
audio_enable()
audpp: DMA missed
audio timer expired
audio_disable()
audmgr: DISABLED
binder: send failed reply for transaction 5448 to 149:221
7. As stated above, this phone lacks a camera. The slot where the camera goes, just has a cover over it. Looks like I should be able to pop a replacement in the spot. Anyone know the part number of the rear camera, or where I might find one? I can only seem to locate the front-camera on various web sites.
Thanks all!
1. bad blocks are common, yaffs reports them, and marks them as unusable, they have no effect on running Android, ( one of my kais130's has about 10 bad blocks, works fine).
2. Thats normal also, not sure if calibration app has ever worked, although i think there is a console based one that does, never had to use it though.
3. GPS may or may not work properly depending on a number of factors, which build and NBH are used, also which gps software is used also, best combo I have found so far are the Kallt_Kaffe NBH's and Myn's warm Eclair, with GPS test (free or pro). Also note that initial fixes take some time, up to, or over 5 minutes, depending on conditions, etc.
4. Not sure, could be a number of factors again, build, local 3G coverage, APN setup, etc.
5. Never used voice search, but it is known to be pretty flakey, again build plays a large part.
6. I know that there are normally errors on boot, the audio ones are not normal however, could be due to using an older radio, or perhaps some rare kais110 issue, can't actually recall anyone reporting issues with kais110 hardware.
7. Not sure if it's possible to just add a rear camera, it'll depend if the supporting electronics were fitted to allow it to work or not, also unsure where to look for one, although you may be able to get a part number off the service manuals, ( should be in the xda-wiki pages ).
TMobile and AT&T use different 3G frequencies, so an AT&T phone such as your won't do 3G on TMobile. The EDGE will work fine, but slow of course.
purpleonyx said:
3. GPS does not want to play nice. From the app store, I install GPS by Andrea Baccega. Sometimes I get a single satellite to display, once I saw 3 on screen. Unfortunately, none of the other fields (long/lat) were populated which tells me something is wrong.
Dmesg output:
GPS:env_mask=0
GPS:date=00002000
GPS:time=000000 hlat=0 llat=0 hlng=0 llng=0
GPS:speed=0 bearing=0
GPS: has been tickled!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use GPS Test (chartcross ltd), free version from Market. Configure it to not turn off display (keep it from going to sleep). Plug in a charger (if you wan to) and leave it near a window.
Within 5-10 minutes you should have a fix. After that, getting a fix normally happens within seconds. Depending on how much time has passed since you last used your GPS and also the distance you moved it while having it turned off also affects the time to get a fix.
Also blocking the top of the phone with your hand is not a good idea as it seems to be an effective way of blocking the GPS signals.
kallt_kaffe said:
Use GPS Test (chartcross ltd), free version from Market. Configure it to not turn off display (keep it from going to sleep). Plug in a charger (if you wan to) and leave it near a window.
Within 5-10 minutes you should have a fix. After that, getting a fix normally happens within seconds. Depending on how much time has passed since you last used your GPS and also the distance you moved it while having it turned off also affects the time to get a fix.
Also blocking the top of the phone with your hand is not a good idea as it seems to be an effective way of blocking the GPS signals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the response -- I had tried that over the past 2 nights, but it never took. It just did however, during the day, which is odd. I also switched to a 1.64.08.21 version of the radio today, and it worked. Previous attempts were under 1.71.09.01, 1.70.19.09 and 1.70.18.02 that resulted in failure. Odd.
Is there a way to view all roms installed, for everything? OS, kernel, radio, splash/boot, etc? I am wondering if something got hung up during flashing, or something didnt get wiped out.
Thanks!
purpleonyx said:
Thanks for the response -- I have done this several times (left it going for 10+ hrs at the max time), and it picks up 4-5 satellites, but nothing ever occurs. It sits there with the yellow light, and all of the numbers show in the 20's to very low 30's, which seems like it's a very weak signal, or a high signal/noise ratio. Could this be a radio issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
20-30 actually should be enough. Anything above 40 is excellent and not seen very often. And I'm using the same Radio so that should be the problem. Don't know really. Does it work in WinMo?
kallt_kaffe said:
20-30 actually should be enough. Anything above 40 is excellent and not seen very often. And I'm using the same Radio so that should be the problem. Don't know really. Does it work in WinMo?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had no problem working under winmo before i flashed android to nand. It had no delay in picking it up either. I just rebooted the phone and launched google navigator, and it's taking forever again, searching for gps it says.
If you want to use me as a guinea pig, feel free. I ended up ordering the nokia n900, as i need something working now. I am considering keeping the kaiser 110 to screw around with though. It would make a good backup device anyways. I tried Myn's Warm Eclair on it, but it dragged its legs and had too many problems. Myn's Warm Donut however, functions near perfectly and is quite fast. I've oc'd the processor to 450 MHz which provides a noticeable speed boost. I'm using your latest 2010.06.06 kernel with it. I've been questioning whether or not display 2 and 3 are the same on this model -- sure behaves the same.
-update: Phone comes to a crawl, and then locks up when GPS is used. Both the GPS Test and Google Nav.
The gps is not very good atleast it is not working very well in my phone.
I tried using cardio trainer. And the gps jumps about. Plus the gps signal shown is very low can anyone put their phone gps through the paces and then tell me should I ask for a replacement or its in all phones
Mines fine.
Mine works fine, GPS is actually pretty good as navigation tells you the road names..!
Dopedangel said:
The gps is not very good atleast it is not working very well in my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you clarify if you're talking about hardware or software?
And did you compare GS with other GPS at the very same time and place?
I too am seeing poor performance with the GPS. Seems to be a hardware issue.
I did a test over the weekend comparing my Galaxy S with a friend's HTC Desire. Using one of the many GPS utilities the Desire was consistently seeing and locking more satellites when stood in an open area outside. When running Google maps and showing the current location I found that the "accuracy circle" (for want of a better description) was growing and shrinking several times a minute causing the map to zoom in and out.
I've also noticed that the compass is almost unusable and showing a much lower signal compared to the Desire. I did perform the figure of 8 calibration several times.
Not tried the GPS yet, but I'm amazed how accurate network location is on this thing.
On my old G1 network location was laughable, but this thing knows pretty much exactly where it is without GPS.
MarvinTheAndroid said:
Not tried the GPS yet, but I'm amazed how accurate network location is on this thing.
On my old G1 network location was laughable, but this thing knows pretty much exactly where it is without GPS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
probably having wifi on? google can locate you more precise cause it has registered every wifi network during the streetview picture taking.
tommy34 said:
probably having wifi on? google can locate you more precise cause it has registered every wifi network during the streetview picture taking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this is with wifi turned off.
tommy34 said:
probably having wifi on? google can locate you more precise cause it has registered every wifi network during the streetview picture taking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol what kind of anti-google propaganda have you been reading?
Google streetview cars collected data of open wifi networks.
Besides from the fact that google doesn't use the data (which it isn't allowed to have), there are by far not enough open wifi networks to find your location.
Also. You have to have at least 3 networks to be able to determine a location using wifi access points.
So the statement you just made is rubbish and ofcourse nonsense...
BasieP said:
Lol what kind of anti-google propaganda have you been reading?
Google streetview cars collected data of open wifi networks.
Besides from the fact that google doesn't use the data (which it isn't allowed to have), there are by far not enough open wifi networks to find your location.
Also. You have to have at least 3 networks to be able to determine a location using wifi access points.
So the statement you just made is rubbish and ofcourse nonsense...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont care about it, i like it.
hmm. just figured this because where i live there arent any open networks and with wifi on it knows my exact location. Without wifi it has a 1600 m radius.
The GPS seems to work flawlessly for me at least.
BasieP said:
Google streetview cars collected data of open wifi networks. Besides from the fact that google doesn't use the data (which it isn't allowed to have), there are by far not enough open wifi networks to find your location.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google collected the SSID and MAC addresses for all of the wifi networks they found, with the explicit intention of using them as an additional source of location data. They also inadvertently collected more data from open networks, and that's what they're in trouble for.
googleblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/wifi-data-collection-update.html
yes and the new google navigation api in the i9000 and android appears to use this data as the damn thing turns on your wifi even when off when gps tries to get a fix!
lgkahn said:
yes and the new google navigation api in the i9000 and android appears to use this data as the damn thing turns on your wifi even when off when gps tries to get a fix!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can disable it in location settings then it wont look for wireless data
Dopedangel said:
you can disable it in location settings then it wont look for wireless data
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope it is disabled and try to get a gps fix.. wifi still comes on and then goes off.. not sure what it is doing.
I got mine and tested.
In the beginning I had a perfect fix on location. When I started moving, however, I experienced this "jumping around" issue with a huge loss of accuracy. The circle of accuracy was also changing constantly. I think I show something about the wifi seeing (or not being able to see - can't remember) some hotspots although my wi-fi was turned off.
Maybe indeed - the phone detects wifi networks even if the wifi as such is off and possibly compares it to an internal database (thus explaining the persistence of the problem even when the radio is off and the phone is not connected on the net).
Do you know any good free program that would allow me to get some test data - e.g. number of satellites / signal quality etc (unless there is already one somewhere in the interface - I am new to Android).
Can someone else run a test? Can some one run a test in an area where no wifi exists.
That's bad news,i'm really interested in this phone (money-forgiving for a while ),but i need great gps performances...
Evans_Prophet said:
Do you know any good free program that would allow me to get some test data - e.g. number of satellites / signal quality etc (unless there is already one somewhere in the interface - I am new to Android).
Can someone else run a test? Can some one run a test in an area where no wifi exists.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try "GPS Test" its on the market for free. From my test the GPS is actually quite nice, several 18-25 SNR connections and a few 26-30 SNR ones ( When outside I even find one or two 31-40 SNR ones which is really great).
Anyway I notice that GPS had become far more accurate when I disabled the Wifi-location option. The only problem is that locking down takes some time ( about 10-20 seconds max) in my area.
kitsune223 said:
Try "GPS Test" its on the market for free. From my test the GPS is actually quite nice, several 18-25 SNR connections and a few 26-30 SNR ones ( When outside I even find one or two 31-40 SNR ones which is really great).
Anyway I notice that GPS had become far more accurate when I disabled the Wifi-location option. The only problem is that locking down takes some time ( about 10-20 seconds max) in my area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok - i will test with that and revert..
By the way, in my wm6 Touch HD there was a utility called quickgps which would download data from server instead of having them downloaded from a satellite with a low speed connection. This increased speed of cold lock. Furthermore there was also another option to enable assisted gps (not sure whether this was different from the quick gps application and what this did exactly). I wonder whether these application / features are automatically enabled in our case.
Evans_Prophet said:
I got mine and tested.
In the beginning I had a perfect fix on location. When I started moving, however, I experienced this "jumping around" issue with a huge loss of accuracy. The circle of accuracy was also changing constantly. I think I show something about the wifi seeing (or not being able to see - can't remember) some hotspots although my wi-fi was turned off.
Maybe indeed - the phone detects wifi networks even if the wifi as such is off and possibly compares it to an internal database (thus explaining the persistence of the problem even when the radio is off and the phone is not connected on the net).
Do you know any good free program that would allow me to get some test data - e.g. number of satellites / signal quality etc (unless there is already one somewhere in the interface - I am new to Android).
Can someone else run a test? Can some one run a test in an area where no wifi exists.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can also be a problem of google navigation beta?? Did anyone try another gps navigator?
i felt the same thing about GPS, as it is not that good , as there's no wi-fi Google can detect hear. the performance was not that good at all!.
but tonight i used the GPS without the Wifi (i turned it off) and for a surprise the performance was amazing, I was with my friend in his car watching the road as he drive and watching the google map in my phone and was very good indeed.
that's strange!.
I have been having a lot of trouble with my Epic's radio behavior since the EC05 radio update. It seems that the normal Samsung "radio stupidity" that I have seen in several of their devices is worse than ever now. The best radio for call performance I have used so far was DG27's (though not data). Essentially, what it is as far as I can determine by using utilities to monitor radio operation, is poor CDMA handoff configuration.
What it does is, for no good reason, switch from a cell site providing a good signal level, to one providing a bad signal level for no reason. Either this, or it holds onto a weakening set of towers while moving, until it goes out of their range and the call drops. The phone will then display the no service message for a few seconds, and then will pick up perfect signal from a different set of towers. I can even watch this happen by driving down a given road while on a call, with another phone in my cup holder. The Epic will start to break up and show very low signal levels, while the other is doing perfectly. Additionally, the direction you drive down this (2 lane) road also has an effect.
I have fixed this before on non smartphones by altering some of the CDMA radio values. T_Add, T_Drop, T_Comp, T_Tdrop. My solution is to increase the threshold on T_Comp a little bit, and drop the T_Tdrop also a little bit. The problem is that I cannot figure how to do this on this phone. Very little radio information seems to be available, and the utilities I have do not work completely on this model.
This issue with how they program their radios seems to be a common Samsung problem, to a much greater degree than with other manufacturers. Sanyo, Palm, and Motorola seem to do a much better job with this, even in cases where they use the same radio chipsets.
I am feeling like a lot of people will find this matter interesting and/or of benefit to resolve.
The only problem I see and I'm sure someone will correct me is the RIL is closed source. Also android was designed around gsm and not cdma. This makes the manufacture and carrier to design a "wrapper" to get the RIL to work on cdma. Now if samsung would release the source.code I'm sure making changes wouldn't be so hard
On a side note I know there's a dialer code ( I forget what it is ) that you can go and play with some settings. One of them being able to switch to cdma instead of cdma/gsm that it is by default.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
Maybe try ##3282# or *#147852#
My data does the same thing on ec05. I'll have perfect signal and then all of a sudden nothing for like a minute and then it comes back. Least im not the only one
Sent From My Evo Killer!!!
musclehead84 said:
My data does the same thing on ec05. I'll have perfect signal and then all of a sudden nothing for like a minute and then it comes back. Least im not the only one
Sent From My Evo Killer!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isn't the data driving me nuts. Data sessions pick up again quickly. It's the dropped calls. Either way, it is partially a symptom of the same problem. The phone is promoting weak towers, sometimes in favor of strong ones, to the active set - which it should not be.
MysteryEmotionz said:
The only problem I see and I'm sure someone will correct me is the RIL is closed source. Also android was designed around gsm and not cdma. This makes the manufacture and carrier to design a "wrapper" to get the RIL to work on cdma. Now if samsung would release the source.code I'm sure making changes wouldn't be so hard
On a side note I know there's a dialer code ( I forget what it is ) that you can go and play with some settings. One of them being able to switch to cdma instead of cdma/gsm that it is by default.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No and yes. CDMA support was a hack in versions prior to 2.0. Android 2.0 (and later) has inbuilt features intended to support CDMA networks. Some of the companies are still using some legacy code, and some of nomenclature used within the system parameters still reflects GSM however.
This, however, is irrelevant in my belief. I do not think that these parameters are a function of RIL, as RIL is simply the intermediary between the "computer" and "telephone" components in a smartphone. I believe that these issues exist purely, or nearly so, within the "telephone" section of the device.
running_the_dream said:
Maybe try ##3282# or *#147852#
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is this ##147852#? I cannot find it in any information I have, and it has no effect on the phone itself.
Not ###47852#. *#147852#. I don't know the name of the dialer. I call it the master meenu. It basically let's you access various front end user settings on the phone. I have used it to reset my 4g radio. Anyway, you may try the testing/phone information menu to change the cdma setting. I'm totally taking a shot in the dark on that, but it does seem to allow you to alter the radio preference.
running_the_dream said:
Not ###47852#. *#147852#. I don't know the name of the dialer. I call it the master meenu. It basically let's you access various front end user settings on the phone. I have used it to reset my 4g radio. Anyway, you may try the testing/phone information menu to change the cdma setting. I'm totally taking a shot in the dark on that, but it does seem to allow you to alter the radio preference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, totally misread that. Nothing seems to apply however, as I do not think it is a software parameter on the phone end. The WiMAX radio is software controlled, through a driver in the operating system. The combination of CDMA radio and baseband processor are more or less an independent device which essentially lives on its own, with its own configuration. It is told what to do through the RIL, which is a piece of software that allows the computer aspect of the phone to talk to the radio, passing it instructions which it then acts upon according to its own programming and configuration. The RIL also allows the radio to communicate its status to the rest of the system.
I am really thinking that this will not be a setting that can be modified from within the phone itself, but will require some external involvement, similar to QPST. On this chipset, however, QPST does not appear to be able to manage these parameters.
If you find out any more info please pass it along. Thank you.
Sent From My Evo Killer!!!
Ah that's really interesting. Wish I could help.
Let me preface here with the following:
I'm on the latest Android 12 beta at the time of this post, and I will lose anywhere from 20-40% of my battery without doing the fixes I'm going to lay out in this post. My phone is an unlocked Pixel 6 pro straight from Google, in use for T-Mobile. I did move from physical SIM to eSIM a while back, which did resolve my Bluetooth or Wi-Fi constant drops somehow.
If you care more about 5G connection than battery, then move along and ignore this, as we'll be putting the phone to preference LTE.
Almost all of these fixes I easily found when googling my issues, save the last step, I don't recall seeing that posted anywhere and tried it on my own to finally get positive results. It ended up fully resolving the stand by drain of my battery.
Here are the settings and steps, followed by some battery results after some use.
Setting 1: Under Dev options, turn off "mobile data always active"
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Setting 2: Under Settings > Network & Internet, turn "Adaptive Connectivity" off. I have not noticed any issues with switching from WiFi to Mobile data, so I'm unsure how much help this setting actually is.
Setting 3: Under Settings > Network & Internet > SIMs (T-Mobile in my case), change "Preferred Network Type" to "LTE"
It will say 5G recommended, and that should be selected by default.
Optional, if you want to match me, change or confirm Wi-Fi calling to "Call over Wi-Fi", though I don't think this part matters.
Setting 4 (Final setting, and the part that actually saw the improvement to my battery)
In the same place as setting 3, Under Settings > Network & Internet > Carrier (T-Mobile in my case)
REMOVE the "Automatically Select Network" option, then ensure your carrier is selected under "Choose Network"
* I wondered if this would cause me issue during travel, and during easter weekend, driving 5 hours away to family, it caused me zero problems *
Within the first few hours, then days, I saw MASSIVE improvements to my battery life vs what it was before with defaults.
Example 1: Throughout my work day I lost only 11%, whereas before I would easily be at 70% or less without hardly picking up the device. I check my phone for alerts, MFA codes, and maybe a few other notifications throughout the day. Not much screen on time. IMHO any new phone should only be losing 0.5-1% with the screen off per hour, and this is the first time this has been the case with my P6P.
Example 2: Bed at 10pm, awake at 6:23am, and only lost 6%. I'd not thought this possible a week ago...
And there you have it. I hope this helps someone facing issues with stand-by drain, and I know (like all issues with P6P), this is not affecting everyone it seems. I've been waiting since November for a fix, and this is the best I can get right now. LTE is plenty fast for me, and I'm on my home Gig internet WiFi nearly all the time anyway. I don't know that every single setting in this post is absolutely necessary, but its what is working for me.
I know there have been other posts, but I only saw them as a post of the issue, with an assortment of fixes throughout the threads. I wanted to post this as more of a resolution (well workaround) to an issue many of us know of.
I'll put thread notables after this line (suggestions others have to improve battery life around networking)
This one is from @Morgrain
Turn off:
Wifi scanning
Bluetooth scanning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both settings can be found under location services. For a further battery life improvement, Google Location Accuracy can also be deactivated, even though I personally let the stay ON, since it makes a difference in GPS location, meaning if you turn it off, GPS becomes noticeably less accurate.
I never turned off the keep the data active, but one of the first things I turned off was 5G.
At 100% charge before bed, 8 hours later, I usually loose 2-3% of battery.
p51d007 said:
I never turned off the keep the data active, but one of the first things I turned off was 5G.
At 100% charge before bed, 8 hours later, I usually loose 2-3% of battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just turning off 5G didn't do much or anything for me. So weird how this issue hits people differently. Actually sounds like this issue may not have affected you at all, but you got some additional battery saving via the general 5G turn off.
Oddly enough I cant choose my network on Xfinity Mobile. Clicking the toggle brings me to the selection screen and selecting my carrier does nothing
You pay good money to get the latest greatest flagship and you disable one of the greatest benefits, 5g network capability. I don't get the logic.
scott.hart.bti said:
You pay good money to get the latest greatest flagship and you disable one of the greatest benefits, 5g network capability. I don't get the logic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a simple logic (speaking for OP here, and other people with the same issues).
The manufacturer of this phone used an inefficient, old modem (something that 99% of the customer base was not aware of before buying the phone) that causes massive (battery) problems when actually utilizing this feature. And now humans are trying to find a middle ground, meaning keeping the phone but improving battery life, by disabling features that have little meaning in everyday life (5G is cosmetic at best, 4G is plenty for YouTube streaming or music streaming). I never had a situation in my life, where I thought "man, having 200 MB/s more connection speed now would be super important on my phone!"
People scroll the web, watch videos, watch twitter/tiktok whatever feeds and listen to music. For that 4G (and 4G+) is more then enough. 5G only really makes sense if you want to use it as a hotspot for a PC or laptop, and even then 5G is only truly useful when downloading or uploading bigger data files - a use case that most people probably do not have (most people have WiFi where they spend their everyday life).
So I do not understand, why you do not see that obvious logic?
-------
Regarding OP: The manually "Select Network" sounds like an interesting idea. I'm not sure why it would make a difference (since the phone should only ever select the carrier network anyway), but I'll give it a try and see how it works. Personally, my battery life experience ever since updating to the march update (and now April) has been abysmal. Where I- before - went to sleep with 20% left in the battery, I now need to top up, every day, around 2000. Meaning I lost about ~30% of battery life since updating to Android 12l (nothing else changed, my usecase is the same, SoT is the same, wifi/LTE ratio is still the same). Hopefully your trick/idea can make a difference. I've grown annoyed at carrying a power bank with me (again), something that I didn't have to do since I bought the phone in October (until march).
-------
A trick that also saves battery life (OP should put it in his text) is deactivating
Wifi scanning
Bluetooth scanning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both settings can be found under location services. For a further battery life improvement, Google Location Accuracy can also be deactivated, even though I personally let the stay ON, since it makes a difference in GPS location, meaning if you turn it off, GPS becomes noticeably less accurate.
(my wifi scanning reactivated on it's own after march update, check yours!)
Gerr1985 said:
Let me preface here with the following:
I'm on the latest Android 12 beta at the time of this post, and I will lose anywhere from 20-40% of my battery without doing the fixes I'm going to lay out in this post. My phone is an unlocked Pixel 6 pro straight from Google, in use for T-Mobile. I did move from physical SIM to eSIM a while back, which did resolve my Bluetooth or Wi-Fi constant drops somehow.
If you care more about 5G connection than battery, then move along and ignore this, as we'll be putting the phone to preference LTE.
Almost all of these fixes I easily found when googling my issues, save the last step, I don't recall seeing that posted anywhere and tried it on my own to finally get positive results. It ended up fully resolving the stand by drain of my battery.
Here are the settings and steps, followed by some battery results after some use.
Setting 1: Under Dev options, turn off "mobile data always active"
View attachment 5592251
Setting 2: Under Settings > Network & Internet, turn "Adaptive Connectivity" off. I have not noticed any issues with switching from WiFi to Mobile data, so I'm unsure how much help this setting actually is.
View attachment 5592253
Setting 3: Under Settings > Network & Internet > SIMs (T-Mobile in my case), change "Preferred Network Type" to "LTE"
It will say 5G recommended, and that should be selected by default.
View attachment 5592257
Optional, if you want to match me, change or confirm Wi-Fi calling to "Call over Wi-Fi", though I don't think this part matters.
Setting 4 (Final setting, and the part that actually saw the improvement to my battery)
In the same place as setting 3, Under Settings > Network & Internet > Carrier (T-Mobile in my case)
REMOVE the "Automatically Select Network" option, then ensure your carrier is selected under "Choose Network"
* I wondered if this would cause me issue during travel, and during easter weekend, driving 5 hours away to family, it caused me zero problems *
View attachment 5592261
Within the first few hours, then days, I saw MASSIVE improvements to my battery life vs what it was before with defaults.
Example 1: Throughout my work day I lost only 11%, whereas before I would easily be at 70% or less without hardly picking up the device. I check my phone for alerts, MFA codes, and maybe a few other notifications throughout the day. Not much screen on time. IMHO any new phone should only be losing 0.5-1% with the screen off per hour, and this is the first time this has been the case with my P6P.
View attachment 5592263
Example 2: Bed at 10pm, awake at 6:23am, and only lost 6%. I'd not thought this possible a week ago...
View attachment 5592267
And there you have it. I hope this helps someone facing issues with stand-by drain, and I know (like all issues with P6P), this is not affecting everyone it seems. I've been waiting since November for a fix, and this is the best I can get right now. LTE is plenty fast for me, and I'm on my home Gig internet WiFi nearly all the time anyway. I don't know that every single setting in this post is absolutely necessary, but its what is working for me.
I know there have been other posts, but I only saw them as a post of the issue, with an assortment of fixes throughout the threads. I wanted to post this as more of a resolution (well workaround) to an issue many of us know of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Will try and see if I get any improvements.
Despite the battery I'm pretty happy with this phone.
Gerr1985 said:
Just turning off 5G didn't do much or anything for me. So weird how this issue hits people differently. Actually sounds like this issue may not have affected you at all, but you got some additional battery saving via the general 5G turn off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost like it has to do with your carier, data signal and how far you are from an antenna..
Anad it doesn't use 40% of your battery, it's used X% of Y% that has drained during the last 24 hours, so the less you use your phone the higher it will seem.
iRhyiku said:
Almost like it has to do with your carier, data signal and how far you are from an antenna..
Anad it doesn't use 40% of your battery, it's used X% of Y% that has drained during the last 24 hours, so the less you use your phone the higher it will seem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be carrier and radio for sure. I had maybe 1-2 bars at my parents' this past weekend, and still only lost 0.5-1% an hour with these fixes, so I'm not sure distance is a key factor in this case.
I know all about the % use variables, and its a bit confusing, which is why I didn't put any screenshots or data showing that in the OP. Focused on standby drain, and we all seem to get that its a primary result of some issues with the mobile network setup.
Morgrain said:
It's a simple logic (speaking for OP here, and other people with the same issues).
The manufacturer of this phone used an inefficient, old modem (something that 99% of the customer base was not aware of before buying the phone) that causes massive (battery) problems when actually utilizing this feature. And now humans are trying to find a middle ground, meaning keeping the phone but improving battery life, by disabling features that have little meaning in everyday life (5G is cosmetic at best, 4G is plenty for YouTube streaming or music streaming). I never had a situation in my life, where I thought "man, having 200 MB/s more connection speed now would be super important on my phone!"
People scroll the web, watch videos, watch twitter/tiktok whatever feeds and listen to music. For that 4G (and 4G+) is more then enough. 5G only really makes sense if you want to use it as a hotspot for a PC or laptop, and even then 5G is only truly useful when downloading or uploading bigger data files - a use case that most people probably do not have (most people have WiFi where they spend their everyday life).
So I do not understand, why you do not see that obvious logic?
-------
Regarding OP: The manually "Select Network" sounds like an interesting idea. I'm not sure why it would make a difference (since the phone should only ever select the carrier network anyway), but I'll give it a try and see how it works. Personally, my battery life experience ever since updating to the march update (and now April) has been abysmal. Where I- before - went to sleep with 20% left in the battery, I now need to top up, every day, around 2000. Meaning I lost about ~30% of battery life since updating to Android 12l (nothing else changed, my usecase is the same, SoT is the same, wifi/LTE ratio is still the same). Hopefully your trick/idea can make a difference. I've grown annoyed at carrying a power bank with me (again), something that I didn't have to do since I bought the phone in October (until march).
-------
A trick that also saves battery life (OP should put it in his text) is deactivating
Both settings can be found under location services. For a further battery life improvement, Google Location Accuracy can also be deactivated, even though I personally let the stay ON, since it makes a difference in GPS location, meaning if you turn it off, GPS becomes noticeably less accurate.
(my wifi scanning reactivated on it's own after march update, check yours!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can already tell it's giving me better battery life, and I added to the OP this morning. Will anything stop working with this off? Guess I'll find out
Gerr1985 said:
Setting 2: Under Settings > Network & Internet, turn "Adaptive Connectivity" off. I have not noticed any issues with switching from WiFi to Mobile data, so I'm unsure how much help this setting actually is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Adaptive connectivity is advertised as minimizing 5G use when the system/ai determines it's not needed.
Google's latest Pixel feature drop brings improvements to battery, connectivity, and audio
Also brings the new Hold for Me feature for other recent Pixel phones. Google is releasing its latest feature drop for its Pixel phones, which brings...
m.gsmarena.com
Adaptive connectivity is a feature from adaptive connectivity services, which does more than 4g and 5g hand off. Based on the play store listing.
Like how adaptive charging is a feature from device health services app, which also does other things besides adaptive charging.
scott.hart.bti said:
You pay good money to get the latest greatest flagship and you disable one of the greatest benefits, 5g network capability. I don't get the logic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't need that speed, and, in my area, 4G LTE is faster anyway. We don't have any 5mm towers.
gen10 said:
Oddly enough I cant choose my network on Xfinity Mobile. Clicking the toggle brings me to the selection screen and selecting my carrier does nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here.
It works! Thanks
scott.hart.bti said:
You pay good money to get the latest greatest flagship and you disable one of the greatest benefits, 5g network capability. I don't get the logic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed as some of us don't even have access to that due to Google having it locked on our network
I get this long list of networks to choose from when I disable Automatically Select Network. So if I select LTE, does that mean that if I get to an area that doesn't have TMobile LTE coverage, that I will lose connectivity, even if that area has the other TMobile networks listed below?
Prey521 said:
I get this long list of networks to choose from when I disable Automatically Select Network. So if I select LTE, does that mean that if I get to an area that doesn't have TMobile LTE coverage, that I will lose connectivity, even if that area has the other TMobile networks listed below?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure you follow the other steps first as you shouldn't see 5G or 3G listed otherwise.
As for your main concern...
Honestly I'm not positive what will happen. However, I did a test run of this by driving from IL to my parents house in Indiana (almost Ohio, 5 hours) on Easter weekend. Lots of farm land and I only lost signal 2 times for less than a minute. This also happened before all of my changes, so no change in behavior for me. Most carriers are in the process of sunsetting 3g, so I'd imagine you'll be fine.
scott.hart.bti said:
You pay good money to get the latest greatest flagship and you disable one of the greatest benefits, 5g network capability. I don't get the logic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ouch man... go easy now.
I don't want to have to turn it off, but Google needs to fix it first. 4G is still plenty fast for everything mobile, I'm not trying to run Internet for my whole house with it. That is about the best use case for 5g. I have zero problems streaming anything at full quality. I also am on my home WiFi 99% of the time so I could care less. I made a point to move along if turning off 5g is an issue, so thanks for following that instruction.
Gerr1985 said:
Setting 3: Under Settings > Network & Internet > SIMs (T-Mobile in my case), change "Preferred Network Type" to "LTE"
It will say 5G recommended, and that should be selected by default.
View attachment 5592257
View attachment 5592261
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of these options don't show up for some folks, myself included. I kept the two photos that I don't have access to on my phone. At one point I do remember having the option to "automatically select network," but now I don't.
I'm unsure why I can't choose my preferred network type, despite some custom roms giving this ability. I typically have to go into the phone dialer to change this option.
The steps you've outlined have been posted in numerous threads, albeit scattered lol. IMO having to do all these steps is unacceptable, and hope the new Pixel 7 resolves such issues.
RetroTech07 said:
Some of these options don't show up for some folks, myself included. I kept the two photos that I don't have access to on my phone. At one point I do remember having the option to "automatically select network," but now I don't.
I'm unsure why I can't choose my preferred network type, despite some custom roms giving this ability. I typically have to go into the phone dialer to change this option.
The steps you've outlined have been posted in numerous threads, albeit scattered lol. IMO having to do all these steps is unacceptable, and hope the new Pixel 7 resolves such issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your carrier will lock some of these options.