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I have an on-going project of creating a battery extender for my xda and I want to share it.
This is composed of 8 rechargable NiCAD or NiMh battery connected in series to produce a 9.6 v. The 9.6 v will be regulated by a 5v regulator (LM7805) then it will be connected in the XDA power dongle.
With this project, the battery life can be x4 or more depending on the batteries used.
I'm currently (no pun intended) trialling a Mugen 4500mAh battery which looks likely to give me >16 hours continual use ob my XdaII. Probably much more expensive than your solution but perhaps more convenient being 'built-in'.
Good idea though, I could have done with your solution two years ago!
Update on my project
I already assemble it and have try it already and here is the update.
The good news is the battery is charging.
The fall back is that the regulator that I have used is emitting too much heat.
I also have done some bench test and here are the data for those who are interested.
1. XDA IIs is drainning about .700 Amperes when charging supplied by 5v
2. XDA IIs will not charge with 4.8 V or below
-I got this data using a adjustable power supply with an Ampere meter
Project Fall down
For the fall down, I think it is because of two reason:
1. It is because the total Voltage supplied by the batteries is 9.6V and the out put regulation is 5V, therefore the 4.6V is being converted to heat.
- I should have use 6 battery insted of 8 to 7.2v instead of 9.6.
2. Since 5v is the out put of the regulator and it is charging the battery with a 4.8v (for i.e.) this will mean that the .2v drop will be in the line between the charger and battry which also mean the current is the max output of the regulator (Applying OHMs Law I=V/R, and R being 0 will result to infinity in theory and maximum in reality)
____________
| |
V1=5V V2=4.8V
|___________|
-I think I should have put a resistor to control the current or I should have designed a regulated current supply instead of a regulated voltage supply
For the #2 reason i'm not still sure about this because, this can only be true if the XDAIIs or it's battery does not have a built in charging circuit.
I have read some articles on mugen battery that it has a overload protection circuit my guess is that XDA also have it my I dont have any information yet. Incase XDAIIS or the battery alreadhave a charging circuit I only need to resolve my #1 Fall down.
I think I need to do more research, but if anybody could provide me information it will be highly appreciated. XDAIIs service manual maybe a greate help.
resolved
My project is now working, the over heating was resolved by putting a heat sink on the IC regulator and reducing the numbers of AA battery to 6 pcs (6 x 1.2 =7.2).
I'm still not sure where the over charging protection circuit is installed (XDA unit, battery or in the power supply/Craddle) incase it is not with the xda or the battery then I need to be carefull not to overcharge my battery with my project but if it is in it then my project is now perfect.
Any body knows where the over charging protection circuit is please help.
Re: resolved
there is a russian link for the same project - http://forum.pocketz.ru/index.php?showtopic=11339&hl=battery extender&st=100
Adapter:
http://wince.box.ru/russian/caradapter.htm
typically you can take any car adapter, give 12v to its input and take 5v from output for charging your PocketPC battery. Most car adapters would give 5V output if input is between 8...12V
hi kabayan,
i think the over current protection is in the device.
i converted an external battery charger (using 4x AA battery) intended for blue angel to my himalaya. there's nothing inside it except for a 10K resistor in series with the output.
i also noticed that even with the correct regulated voltage applied, my hima won't charge without a current limiting resistor, so its definitely an over current protection in the device!
congrats in your project!
Schematic Diagram
Anybody has a schematic diagram of XDA? Please share
If you have the money might as well buy additional battery so no need for you to go thru all thoses stuffs. My project had work for me actually it is easy just basic ohms law. The challenge I have encountered in the project was the heating up of the regulator but it was resolved. by the way the reason I made a battery extender is because that time extra battery is not easy to find and I dont have a budget for it so I just salvage some electronic parts from my previous projects. But now I already bought an extra battery- a lot convience than before
just wondering if it's safe to use my hp touchpad charger on the gio
Wall AC to USB power adapter, which has input specifications of 100-240 Volt 50–60 Hz 0.4 Amp AC, and output specifications of 5.3 Volt 2.0 Amp DC. It is cylindrical roughly the size of a "D" battery with a foldable 2-prong AC connector and Standard-A USB socket on its two ends.
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pretty high amperage, is it safe to charge with it? done it twice already
Standard charger have 5V output and 0,7A out. I do not recommend the use of higher voltages and currents, can lead to overcharging and thus the explosion.
The internal "censor" of the cell can and wil be fried wen you continue.
0.7 vs 2.0 is about 3 times faster, truth but also a bigger ammount in a shorter time.
If the cell not capable for that, it wil overheat and at worst case it wil blow up in your face...................
And take a second gues, those are not the most expensive celles.............
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Good question....hope someone has the answer for you.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
executionist said:
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
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Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Gkikas said:
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
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No one plugs their phone directly to the wall socket :/ Thats what the charger is for, it only gives 5v to the phone. Just need to know if it can regulate that 6v to a safe level.
*edit. I think no one here would know about the hardware aspects of a phone. Can someone point me to a forum or anywhere where they may know the answer to a question like this?
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
TieNN89 said:
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
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A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
executionist said:
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
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ah yeah
My brain has already flicked off for the day LOL
if you use IRC, try the freenode server in the ##electronics channel. they should help you out there. pretty nice ppl in general there.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
?
I'm interested as well. Will 6 volts @ 500mAh fry the phone?
Ok, I am an electronic engineer so a few comments.
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones, could probably look it up but ..... in my opinion only 10% above 5V is to be considered safe.
Now you are talking about a 6V battery. That battery is not always 6V. A nice example is the 12V battery in your car which is 12.8V when fully charged. Another example are the cells inside our phones which have a nominal Voltage of 3.7V but are charged to 4.2V.
The Voltage they put on those things is the nominal Voltage.
I would check if there is no electronic circuit in that lamp since I would not connect anything directly to a battery at all.
If you go camping I would check this thing coolook pb-2000. Insert 4 x 18650 batts and you can do a couple of recharges. Very good box for the price and you can salvage 18650 from broken laptop batt packs ... but google and youtube a bit before you do that to make sure you do it the right way.
I'm also interested, any news?
You can see the specs of this type of batteries here. The 6V is nominal, as already mentioned above. The maximum noted is 6.9V and TBH, i would be rather reluctant to test is my SGS3 charging circuit likes the idea of being fed with 40% higher voltage than usual.
Are you sure there is nothing in the lantern that would limit the voltage under load? Could be something as simple as 2 diodes in series, in this case measuring the voltage on the open circuit, totally unloaded, with a DMM that barely draws microamps from it, would show the battery voltage. Try drawing some current from it (use a resistor, a USB LED lamp, etc) while measuring. I seriously doubt a self-respecting vendor would setup a USB port on that thing that would potentially output 40% more than specs, really.
PS: if the port is, indeed, fed straight from that battery, i would rather avoid hooking my SGS3 to it. Even though, it would probably survive.
---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
lukesan said:
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones...
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MAX77686. Good luck finding the datasheet. And good luck trying to guess if there is anything else potentially fed straight from the USB connector. The bottom line is - i wouldn't dare
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
GR0S said:
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
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Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
lukesan said:
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
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I'm not sure about how practical it would be to be cutting usb cables and wiring zener diodes just to use this lamp....
I think I had a charger that supplied too much voltage (I'm not positive I didn't measure the voltage output or anything), but I can say that the phone did not like it. It would eventually charge somewhat, but the touch screen wouldn't work and would go bezerk if touched lol.
Again I'm not sure how much V it supplied, but I would assume it was more than 6V. It didn't really damage the phones either, I would try it.
Here's your answer, definitively:
6v at the source (the lantern in this case) will probably be 5v or less at the phone because of the resistance in the USB cable itself. The longer the cable is the higher the resistance will be and thus the more voltage you lose to it. Also, the cheaper the cable (the thinner the wires) the more voltage you will lose per foot.
Here's some specs you can plug into THIS VOLTAGE CALCULATOR:
The USB definition specifies up to 5.3v.
Most USB cables will use 30awg wire or maybe 28awg for the better ones.
Depending on which of the sources I've read, some USB cables/chargers use one pair of wires for charging, and some will use two pairs. You can see that using two pairs of conductors drastically improves the voltage transmission but even still, at 28awg over a 6foot cable you're still losing .75v which puts you at 5.25v and well within the USB spec.
So the lantern is fine to use with your phone with your average 6-foot USB cord.
If you're like me and prefer 10-15 foot USB cords in some places you would actually benefit from a 6v or even 7v power supply at the wall. I've found that even on the OEM Samsung wall charger, when I use a 10-foot cable I don't get enough juice to actually charge my S4. With the screen on the battery charge level still drops. The Galaxy Charge Rate app shows something like 500ma charge rate and that's because there's not enough voltage / too much voltage-drop across the long cable. (Radio Shack sells a modular, adjustable voltage wall-wart power supply as well as USB and micro-USB adapters for it. I'm starting to experiment with it and the long cables.)
USB voltage vs charging current
This is an old thread, but I can confirm that my moto G charges at 6v. Apparently the original Motorola charger outputs 5.75v. I hooked up a variable power supply to my phone. The data lines are shorted together to indicate a high current power source is present. The moto G will test load the power supply before settling on a stable charging current. One that does not cause the voltage to sag excessively. When I applied 5v the charging current was approximately 600 mA. At 6v the charging current was approx 1200 mA. The charging current was measured directly on the phone using an app called ampere.
So I conclude that Motorola use this tactic to ensure their phones charge fastest with their chargers. On the up side, its fun watching my phone go from 40% to 100% in 45 minutes
So I'm in my junior year of electrical engineering and seeing the incredible things done with smartphones is something I really would like to be a part of one day. I wanted to discuss, considering the limits of current technology, if it would be possible to create a safe Dash Charging power bank for this device? For those who don't know how dash charging works I'll post a few links and my understanding of how it works and if I'm wrong at any point feel free to correct me.
Dash Charging - The Technology
The way dash charging works, as I understand it, is that the USB-C cable wires are made wider in diameter to accommodate a larger amount of current being passed through to the battery. The charger plugged into the wall takes on the burden of the extra voltage pushing the current through the wire and keeping it away from the phone's internal battery (which is brilliant). That means that the charger takes on the extra heat which isn't a problem because passive components are often more tolerant of heat than batteries are.
Links:
http://www.phonearena.com/news/How-it-works-Dash-Charge-fast-charging-on-the-OnePlus-3_id82646
http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/what-is-dash-charge-oneplus-3
The Issues
A dash power bank could be charged up exactly like the phone; with the dash charger it could fill extremely fast. However, using the battery pack to charge the phone means that the internal Li-Ion batteries of that charger will be taking on the extra heat from within the case which could:
a) shorten the power bank's life span
b) Possibly lead to unsafe power banks if it got too hot
I also see there being limitations with the power bank's ability to maintain a full speed charge similar to wall charging along with what types of batteries would be needed to provide the power output similar to the dash charger.
The Solutions
So in my limited knowledge I think that the biggest enemy here is heat generated in the power bank. I feel like the rest could be overcome with a fairly large bank of 18650 batteries. It is possible to have a passive cooling system built into the power bank for heat dissipation but that might make the battery bank difficult for users to hold on their Pokemon Go outings. Also, reducing Dash Charging specifications just a little, decreasing the speed at which it could charge the device, would alleviate some of the concern. So while you might not get 60% in 30 minutes from the wall, perhaps aiming for 45-50% charge in that amount of time would increase the power bank lifespan and total amount of charges.
What do you all think? I'll readily admit I don't understand completely how current battery bank internals work to limit over-current and over-voltage scenarios as I've never taken one apart. If anyone wants to educate me and say whether they think Dash Charging is possible I'd love to hear about it. This is the kind of stuff I imagine the OnePlus engineers are sitting around working on every week.
i think that would be too expensive to make for consumers, u figure if a dash charge block is almost $30.00 this thing would be well over $500.00 which would be too much for a regular consumer to purchase just to have a portable charger, maybe in about the 3rd or 4th generation of this technology we could see one in about 5 years, they would rather make a ton of 30.00 purchases and have you buy their charge block opposed to very little purchases of about 500.00 for power bank
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
otonieru said:
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
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Click to collapse
I had no idea that even existed. I'm going to look into the specs of that device and see what it has under the hood. Thanks for letting me know about it!
AlkaliV2 said:
I had no idea that even existed. I'm going to look into the specs of that device and see what it has under the hood. Thanks for letting me know about it!
Click to expand...
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Here,
the information page from the maker itself :
http://www.oppo.com/en/accessory-vooc-power-bank
and where to get it :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/OPPO-VOOC-Flash-Charge-Power-White/dp/B00SINEEXA
I'm going to build power bank using Dash Charge car charger. The power banks higher voltage (12V if using car charger) means less current for individual cell while charging. I have bought battery holder case 10 x 1,5V for AA batteries. http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ (I already have plenty of Eneloop AA batteries for other accessories.) Each Eneloop has at least 1,5Ah (1500mAh) capacity while retaining voltage at or over 1,2V. http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php I'm going to attach 12V socket to the battery holder case so I can use my car charger both in car as well while at camping.
Battery bank consisting of 10 x AA Eneloop has a total capacity of: 12V*1,5Ah=18Wh.
Dash chargers input is rated at 12V/2.5A so each individual Eneloop would have about 250mAh discharge rate.
My old Galaxy Note 3 had 3,8V 3200mAh battery and the capasity was ~12,2Wh. I don't know the nominal voltage of OP's battery but I would estimate it's about the same as Samsung's so the capacity should be lower than in Note 3. Maybe around: 3,8V*3000mAh=11,4Wh.
10x Eneloop batteries has a capacity to give energy for charging OP3 from 0% TO 100% at least. (18Wh/11,4Wh = ~1,6)
I think in India it's not available
Sent From My One Plus 3
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/new-product-survey-dash-charge-power-bank.457920/
Squabl said:
I'm going to build power bank using Dash Charge car charger. The power banks higher voltage (12V if using car charger) means less current for individual cell while charging. I have bought battery holder case 10 x 1,5V for AA batteries. http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ (I already have plenty of Eneloop AA batteries for other accessories.) Each Eneloop has at least 1,5Ah (1500mAh) capacity while retaining voltage at or over 1,2V. http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php I'm going to attach 12V socket to the battery holder case so I can use my car charger both in car as well while at camping.
Battery bank consisting of 10 x AA Eneloop has a total capacity of: 12V*1,5Ah=18Wh.
Dash chargers input is rated at 12V/2.5A so each individual Eneloop would have about 250mAh discharge rate.
My old Galaxy Note 3 had 3,8V 3200mAh battery and the capasity was ~12,2Wh. I don't know the nominal voltage of OP's battery but I would estimate it's about the same as Samsung's so the capacity should be lower than in Note 3. Maybe around: 3,8V*3000mAh=11,4Wh.
10x Eneloop batteries has a capacity to give energy for charging OP3 from 0% TO 100% at least. (18Wh/11,4Wh = ~1,6)
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We're going to need a hardware XDA for people like you. I never would have thought to string together Eneloops to make an external charger since most of your power banks contain 18650 with overcharge protection and stuff built in. The wall dash charger is spec'ed to run 5V at 4A and the car charger loses half an amp to land in at 3.5A max. Car charger voltage varies between 3.4~5V from what I can tell probably based on the car's cigarette lighter specs.
What kind of case are you using with the eneloops and what are you using for overcurrent/voltage protection?
otonieru said:
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So... can you tell me if a normal VOOC charger block charge the OP3 as fast as the original dash charger in package?
I saw it is the same current rate, but the technology, is it interchangeable?
Just wait oneplus is planning to release a dash charge powerbank with 10000mAh so stay connected no need to buy oppo 6kmAh one
AlkaliV2 said:
The wall dash charger is spec'ed to run 5V at 4A and the car charger loses half an amp to land in at 3.5A max. Car charger voltage varies between 3.4~5V from what I can tell probably based on the car's cigarette lighter specs.
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Click to collapse
You are right, the car charger uses lower current and is probably a bit slower. When I receive my car charger I will do some testing and will report back.
The voltage variation is needed on all chargers. When the battery is almost full the charging voltage drops.
AlkaliV2 said:
What kind of case are you using with the eneloops and what are you using for overcurrent/voltage protection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have ordered a case like this: http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ
The car charger has been designed to be used as it is. The charger itself does not require additional overcurrent protection but in case of a short circuit a 5A fuse is needed to protect the wiring and Eneloops. Overvoltage is not a problem as the maximum voltage with Eneloops is going to be under 15V.
DouglasDuZZ said:
So... can you tell me if a normal VOOC charger block charge the OP3 as fast as the original dash charger in package?
I saw it is the same current rate, but the technology, is it interchangeable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is. I've posted it in another thread as eell. Just check through my post history.
This is pure logical, since Oneplus is just a subsidiary company of OPPO, so they surely can share few technologies between each other, and VOOC/DASH is one of it,
Just make sure your usb c adapter quality is good when you decide to use it with VOOC charger.
I have recently bought an Oukitel K6000 Plus.
I also own an HTC One M8, several chargers, and several USB meters.
The HTC One M8 was sold with a classic 5V 1.5A charger, but the phone by itself has a QC2 chip, and can accept 9V chargers (QC2). When you put a USB meter between a QC2 charger and the M8, you see that after 5s, the charger goes for 9V.
With very recent phones, and QC3, you should see 12V.
QC3 protocol is designed to never burn an uncompatible phone; but, take care about your USB meter, some USB meters may not accept above 7V. I have various USB meters, some take 7V, some 9V, some 13V, some 20V. The protocol is harmless for active devices; but since the USB meters is a spy, it may burn if not designed for high voltage.
On my desk, I have set-up a classic 9V PSU with a USB plug; this way, my phone does not negocate; and I have put a thick copper cable, to have no loss. My HTC M8 was happy with this; the QC2 chip can accept direct 9V. All other devices would burn on this plug, because on this plug, I send raw 9V without any protocol or negociation. This is home made.
Note that older HTC phones like the Sensation do not implement yet Quick Charge (Sensation is not even QC1), and still it accepts up to 7V (it's written in some file under /sys). So, while most people used to use 5V USB chargers for the Sensation, I have already built my fixed 7V charger for this phone ... and i was charging twice faster than any one else; and I was probably the only person on the planet to charge the Sensation at 7V.
Now, I own two 9V phones, and two official 9V chargers. When I plug the K6000 on the provided charger, USB meter nicely adverts 10V. When I plug my M8 on a QC2 charger (from Amazon), USB meter also shows a nice 9V. This means super fast charge (90-100 min to fully charge from 0% to 100%; at most 120mn if I am using the phone during charge).
The issue I had was when I tried to swap the chargers: put the M8 on the Oukitel charger, and the K6000 on a QC2 charger. Then, in both cases, the USB meter sticks to 5V.
This means ... neither the Oukitel charger, or K6000 phone are QC2 compatible. Oukitel does a fast charge, at 9/12V; but not with the Quick Charge protocol.
This means, if you buy any faster charger from anywhere, the Oukitel phones will charge at only 5V; and when you count on voltage loss over the USB cable, I sware you will be luck if you charge your phone in 4h, phone switched off.
After spending a few hours on Google, I have those three sellers, who sell the original Oukitel charger:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...51960957.html?spm=a2g0w.search0304.4.9.Si9JZR
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Ouki...730221.html?spm=a2g0w.search0302.4.142.rUQMcL
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...129853.html?spm=a2g0w.search0302.4.180.ZOEQRv
Out of this, I have been completely unable to find any 9/12V charger for Oukitel on any other website: Ebay, Amazon, BangGood ...
This becomes a huge issue for car chargers: since absolutely no-one builds "Oukitel compatible" chargers, and Oukitel does not seem to build any car chargers ... there is no car charger for the Oukitel.
The workaround is to buy a 9V car supply, and solder a USB cable on it. Most Oukitel phones take 9V (K6000 pro and plus; several K4000). IMHO, the K10000 takes 12V (but, you should check this yourself).
Even if the K10000 accepts 12V, you can not provide the raw 12V from the car, because the car voltage may vary from 11.4 to 15V (strictly, all car devices must be 18V compliant; truck devices must be 36V compliant). Your phone may dislike the 15V peaks (which occur frequently).
I am not yet sure about the exact voltage my K6000 Plus wants. My USB meter shows 10.4V, on PSU side. I don't know if this ought to be a very low 12V because PSU has a poor design, or if the Oukitel protocol includes a fine tuning communication, so that the phone receives 9V on phone plug, and PSU has to over-voltage the output voltage to compensate the loss over cable. When USB meter says there are 10.4V on USB-A plug, the phone claims 9.2V on phone side. Not sure the reason of this. More testing would need a few hours digging (insert the USB meter at the micro-USB-B side).
So, can any one give any detail on the Oukitel protocol used for charger voltage tuning ?
When I plug my Oukitel on the raw 9V USB plug, if Android is running, the phone is happy, and will charge the battery. If the phone is turned off, then, the phone will refuse to charge from 9V (you either need a 5V charger, or start Android - have not tried to dig what happens with TWRP, Recovery, FastBoot, FactoryTools ...).
I am very sad to see this phone completely uncompatible with classic protocols. I understand that the license for QC2 chip is very expensive, and the Oukitel phones are designed to bring huge power at low cost; they walked around the QC2 patents by redesigning the Faster Charger; I can understand this from a dev point of view; but I completely reject it from a user point of view. All my QC2 chargers are useless; and without the original Oukitel charger, charge time has to be 4-8h, with phone iddle or off.
Unless you solder a USB plug on a 9V PSU ... which is very dangerous if you accidently plug an uncompatible device (earset, power bank, old phone ...).
And, don't just take any 9V PSU; it needs to be able to feed at least 1.5A !!!
I feel disapointed.
Quick Charge just came out with a good standard, and more and more phone brands were starting to use it (Samsung, Nokia); and chinese companies now re-invent the wheel ... this brings me back to the old times of Mac being uncompatible with Windows ... when saving a word document on a floppy was the most complicated thing on earth because you had to take care about bitwise issues (a file written on a floppy with Microsoft-Word from a MAC could not be read with Microsoft-Word on Windows-PC ... then, after a few years, they published an update to fix the issue )