Related
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
I have searched high and low for an answer on how to replace a scratched screen of the SGS2 by yourself and have finally found the answer.
This will definitely VOID YOUR WARRANTY so don't say you haven't been warned.
I suggest you only use this guide if you were desperate like me. My phone didn't come with an official warranty so I was as good as screwed if I wanted a new screen.
Step 1: Obtain the part
Just ebay for lcd screen and digitizer galaxy s2 (however u may wish to buy it with the faceplate see below note). You want both the super amoled plus screen and the digitizer together. You can get this for about 120-130 USD.
There are some vendors that sell just the 'lens' but you need a specialized machine to replace it and is simply not worth the trouble.
Note that if you go to an original Samsung service centre, when they order the part, it comes together with the face plate and is therefore a breeze to install. This part is for sale on Ebay too. http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0. I would recommend you to buy this type instead of just the LCD and digitizer.
Follow this disassembly guide (not mine).
Now using a thin metal flat tool with a wide flat surface area, dig at the small gap from the top of the screen and pry the screen from the frontplate. It is held entirely by double-tape so don't worry about any screws, catches. Be careful of not damaging the bezel in the process.
Clean off the old black tape and double tape as best as u can, and be careful of the bottom buttons. The attachment shows how it looks like after cleaning it.
Reapply the double tape in strips and try to shape it to fit as much as you can. This is tiresome but necessary since the adhesive behind the lcd screen is very weak and you don't your screen falling out of you halfway.
Push it in and it should stick. That's it! Then reassemble.
Confirmed working!
thanks for the write up, do you have any more photos of your process?
OMG, it's like watching an autopsy.
Could a better resolution screen or even 3d screen be used/upgraded later on?
Nice to know for something happens, Hope not
Hope wont be necessary. How did you scratch the screen so hard that it had to be changed? I tought the Gorilla Glass is almost unscratchable.
Man,,u shud handle it a bit gently ,,,,i mean,i flinched every time u "threw" the phone on the table.
On second thought, I might as well buy that screen protector
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
wow that is the definition of T H I N !!!!!
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
Thanks also full part with bezel here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samsung-G...062?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cb9ff0e4e
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
With Housing Bezel front cover ,Home Button, Flex Cable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Touch...669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cb9ff0cc5
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
With Housing Bezel front cover ,Home Button, Flex Cable Without Samsung logo
White house soon on site
psp888 said:
thanks for the write up, do you have any more photos of your process?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately not at this time. I will do it the next time around (which will be soon as there is a slight imperfection with my button sensitivity so I might be inclined to try it again) but trust me it's not a beautiful process. Needs lots of guts. Nothing technical about it. Shove the flat tool in the gap and keep on loosening the glue as much as u can then take it off.
podgo said:
Hope wont be necessary. How did you scratch the screen so hard that it had to be changed? I tought the Gorilla Glass is almost unscratchable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's more like cracked. I dropped it on some rocks from waist height and it cracked. It seems that gorilla glass is not shatter proof. There are also some scratches/mini cracks from where the rocks cut it.
Lesson learnt, get a screen protector that hopefully will reinforce it a bit more.
I wonder how these replacement parts compare to the quality of the original parts.
Is your new screen a Super AMOLED+ screen? all ebay listing just says LCD. Is it original Samsung part?
psp888 said:
Is your new screen a Super AMOLED+ screen? all ebay listing just says LCD. Is it original Samsung part?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There some listed as Super AMOLED+ screen just search on ebay or even drop the sellers a question about their iteams.
It is a Super Amoled + screen (don't see any difference in quality between the old and new one). Most sellers don't really know much of their products unfortunately but they do say it's original and I do believe mine is.
There's no Samsung print on the front plate but it does have a part number which corresponds closely to the original one. Everything else looks exactly the same, even the black sponge at the back and the microchips have Samsung wording on them.
BarryH_GEG said:
OMG, it's like watching an autopsy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have stomach to watch dead bodies, but not a GSII LOL
Dropped SGS2 from bikemount : broken screen.
OK,
I broke my screen this weekend. I was on a bike tour with the SGS2 mounted on the steering bar. For some unclear reason, the universal holder came off the bikemount at 25 kmh... Dropped on the paved road, and although still in the universal holder, which is made of soft rubber (which I would expect to break the fall), the screen of my beloved SGS2 was cracked !!! Apart from the cracked screen, everything else seems to work as before.
So, today I ordered a replacement set with bezel from aliexpress.com at 148USD.
When I get the part, I will try to post some pictures of the replacement process.
I had an HD2 before ... just sold it last Friday :-( ... I think over a period of 1,5 year, I dropped the HD2 about 6 times on hard surfaces ... also it fell off my bike once ... the HD2 never broke.
So, is it just bad luck this time, or is the built quality of the SGS2 just not as good as the HD2 ?
Regards,
DirkB
DirkB19 said:
OK,
I broke my screen this weekend. I was on a bike tour with the SGS2 mounted on the steering bar. For some unclear reason, the universal holder came off the bikemount at 25 kmh... Dropped on the paved road, and although still in the universal holder, which is made of soft rubber (which I would expect to break the fall), the screen of my beloved SGS2 was cracked !!! Apart from the cracked screen, everything else seems to work as before.
So, today I ordered a replacement set with bezel from aliexpress.com at 148USD.
When I get the part, I will try to post some pictures of the replacement process.
I had an HD2 before ... just sold it last Friday :-( ... I think over a period of 1,5 year, I dropped the HD2 about 6 times on hard surfaces ... also it fell off my bike once ... the HD2 never broke.
So, is it just bad luck this time, or is the built quality of the SGS2 just not as good as the HD2 ?
Regards,
DirkB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is very easy to do. Just unclip each component and transplant it to the new case.
I have to do my friends one this weekend as he has dropped it and damaged the screen and the bezel .
I have managed to source the screen and the bezel for him all as one piece .
Now all the guides i have seen just rip the phone to pieces , surely if we have the right bits like i have bought this fix is very smple to do??
I am thinking it is just a case of undoing the 7 screws at the back of the phone , opening it up and then disconnect the screen cables from the mainboard . Does the whole front then come away??
If not i take it i have to undo the screws on the main board to release the screen? but this means the componets of the main board may come loose etc??
Has anyone that has done this got any info on just swapping the screen with the complete part? when i say complete part i mean the one that comes with the bezel and home button etc like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0
Thanks in adance for any guidance
buxz777 said:
Has anyone that has done this got any info on just swapping the screen with the complete part? when i say complete part i mean the one that comes with the bezel and home button etc like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0
Thanks in adance for any guidance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for me.
I received my screen including bezel.
I've removed the main board just like the guy in the Youtube video.
But now I still have to transfer (from original front to my new front):
- the bottom PCB (where the microUSB sits)
- the camera
- the speaker
etc ...
I can not find a description/movie of how to do this ?
The bottom PCB for example has 2 screws, but after removing them the PCB itself looks like glued to the front assy'.
I prefer to see or get proper instructions before starting the rest of this adventure
...
PS : I got my part from aliexpress.com within 2 weeks (via airmail). It's with the Samsung logo on it and the package included all required tools (screwdrivers) to do the job. Would be nice to see some written instructions included as well.
Grtz,
DirkB
Hi all. Quick searching leads me nowhere as there are thousands of problems concerning issues I'm NOT having. Sorry for the crappy 3ds camera pic, it's the only thing I have at my disposal right now besides the phone. As I said in the title, I'm not using a screen protector - this is a stock phone right out of the factory with no accessories, albeit aged a bit.
If you'll take a look, you'll see two screen bubbles. The huge funky-looking one at the top started out looking like the one at the bottom, and grew over a period of a few weeks. The bottom one started out really small and doubled in size to what it is now, but has since stopped.
It's really annoying and starting to bother me, but I was wondering if anyone had experienced similar issues, or has any input whether or not I can maybe fix this thing without having to get a whole new screen/digitizer/whatever. No replacement plans on this phone so gotta figure something else out. Any idea what's going on?
D-Lew said:
Hi all. Quick searching leads me nowhere as there are thousands of problems concerning issues I'm NOT having. Sorry for the crappy 3ds camera pic, it's the only thing I have at my disposal right now besides the phone. As I said in the title, I'm not using a screen protector - this is a stock phone right out of the factory with no accessories, albeit aged a bit.
If you'll take a look, you'll see two screen bubbles. The huge funky-looking one at the top started out looking like the one at the bottom, and grew over a period of a few weeks. The bottom one started out really small and doubled in size to what it is now, but has since stopped.
It's really annoying and starting to bother me, but I was wondering if anyone had experienced similar issues, or has any input whether or not I can maybe fix this thing without having to get a whole new screen/digitizer/whatever. No replacement plans on this phone so gotta figure something else out. Any idea what's going on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the plastic actually raised up? Can you see it when the screen is off? To me it looks like the digatizer may be going out, but its hard to tell from a pic.
It appears to be sealed and working fine... just has bubbles. I don't really know much about the insides of this phone, but it almost looks as if whatever is behind the digitizer is slightly warped and might be causing some contact with the glass or something like that. Reflections (off what is behind the screen - lcd? Not the reflections off the glass) tend to bend near the bubbles, whereas everywhere else behind the glass is pretty straight.
Essentially it just looks like water droplets or air bubbles forming on the inside surface of the glass, but it's never seen water before. I don't think the digitizer is failing.
Same problem, can I fix this myself?
Hi guys, I have the exact same problem on my HTC Desire. Touch is working fine, the pixels underneath are ok... yet this thing is expanding. What used to be 3 little bubbles near the very corner moved and turned into this amoeba looking thing after a few months.
Here are a few other shots.
Hope someone can let me know the possible verdict? Is it gone? Can it only be repaired by a professional or can I expect to be able to "clean up" the inside of the screen if I dismantle my phone as it is done here?:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1566313
Maybe the liquids from the lcd are boiling from the heat? Sounds dumb but is a possibility
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
Yikes. Mine is still having the same issues. I'm thinking about just tearing it down soon and figuring it out myself. A little nervous working on something with such small components. Any tips for a first teardown? I need to get a T6 torx and I've already looked at a couple disassembly guides, was a while ago though.
As far as I can tell, I will have to replace either the digitizer/glass or the LCD. If it's the latter I'll probably just upgrade the phone cause they seem pretty pricey.
Ok, I did what I said and investigated myself. Unfortunately, I broke my phone doing it.
The problem is the front glass/digitizer. I couldn't get the LCD off, but I pried it back enough to see bubbles through the glass looking from the inside.
I broke my LCD prying on it, now I have an ugly black spot. Guess I'll be buying an LCD and a digitizer now. Anybody have some spare ones, or know the cheapest place to get them?
D-Lew said:
Ok, I did what I said and investigated myself. Unfortunately, I broke my phone doing it.
The problem is the front glass/digitizer. I couldn't get the LCD off, but I pried it back enough to see bubbles through the glass looking from the inside.
I broke my LCD prying on it, now I have an ugly black spot. Guess I'll be buying an LCD and a digitizer now. Anybody have some spare ones, or know the cheapest place to get them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are some digitizers on ebay for about $20 USD. i dont know about LCDs cause i never needed to replace mine but i would assume that they would be a little more expensive. Also, make sure you get the digitizer WITH the bezel because it will make your life a ton easier.
I'd better not touch it then
Sorry to hear about your LCD, D-Lew
Guess I wont be touching mine on my own. I'll definitely break it trying to do the same thing as you. I wonder if it's gonna break my phone if I just leave it as is. I mean, apart from the fact that it is there, it is not affecting the performance at all.
The bubble might get bigger. That's all you have to worry about.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using xda app-developers app
My GF broke the screen on her Droid Incredible, Verizon insurance wants $100 to replace it, so not sure it is worth it for this phone, and she has a few months left before her upgrade is ready. If i am going to try to fix it for her, can anyone with experience tell me what parts specifically I would need? The LCD seems fine, so i would think i can replace just the digitizer, which i can get on Amazon for $16
http://www.amazon.com/Incredible-Sc...ement-Adhesives/dp/B005TGX6X8/ref=pd_cp_cps_0
They also sell with front housing
http://www.amazon.com/Touch-Screen-Glass-Digitizer-Incredible/dp/B005L0XRRM/ref=pd_cp_cps_1
any tips which to buy or what to do etc?
Why would one/How does one know if they need to replace the LCD as well?
All touch aspects of phone working fine and seems like it's just the glass cracked.
Dillsnik said:
My GF broke the screen on her Droid Incredible, Verizon insurance wants $100 to replace it, so not sure it is worth it for this phone, and she has a few months left before her upgrade is ready. If i am going to try to fix it for her, can anyone with experience tell me what parts specifically I would need? The LCD seems fine, so i would think i can replace just the digitizer, which i can get on Amazon for $16
http://www.amazon.com/Incredible-Sc...ement-Adhesives/dp/B005TGX6X8/ref=pd_cp_cps_0
They also sell with front housing
http://www.amazon.com/Touch-Screen-Glass-Digitizer-Incredible/dp/B005L0XRRM/ref=pd_cp_cps_1
any tips which to buy or what to do etc?
Why would one/How does one know if they need to replace the LCD as well?
All touch aspects of phone working fine and seems like it's just the glass cracked.
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I am no expert, but it would seem that if anything under the glass was broken, you would need to replace the lcd (that is, if you could see the lcd "leaking" or being distorted)
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Nothing under the screen seems broken.
Anyone done this?
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Dillsnik said:
Nothing under the screen seems broken.
Anyone done this?
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Unfortunately I have had the pleasure of replacing my digitizer twice. You definitely wanna buy it WITH the frame or housing. The adhesive is like industrial strength and you will end up breaking the original anyways when trying to remove the digitizer from it. I have to warn you that doing this repair yourself will void your warranty. Make sure the digitizer you get comes with the tools required to get the phone apart. You can get this as a package on eBay fairly cheap too. There are about 3-4 circuit strips that will have to be removed from their clips, don't be intimidated by them, but be gentle. Your first time is gonna take you a while, just be patient. If you need to do it a second time, its gonna be a breeze. PM me if you have any concerns during your repair.
yea get a digitizer also,
I had the same thing happen to me, it was a pain but there are a few videos on youtube
that should help you through it, though it doesn't sound like its that bad
Definitely go with the digitizer and housing replacement together. Bottom line, it will make your life so much less of a headache while replacing it.
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I just replaced mine this weekend. I attached some before, during, and after pictures...
These were the guides that I followed:
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfpPS7oO4Q8
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJMAmKpk20c
Personally, I went with just the glass/digitizer (your first link) and it went fine. The glass is difficult to get out of the housing, but it's not that bad. It probably took me 20 minutes to get the old glass out, maybe 5 minutes of cleaning goo from the old adhesive, and probably another 5 minutes to put the new glass back on.
Some Tips:
The pry tool that comes with it is very cheap. I would suggest using it sparingly until you get to the LCD panel extraction and glass removal. You want it to be as in good of condition as can be when you get to those later steps.
Use a blow-drier to heat up the adhesive, and get it to the point where you almost cant touch it. I used some yellow kitchen gloves so I could get it a little hotter and still be able to hold it. I used a combination of my hands and the pry tool and worked mostly along the sides and top first, then separated the bottom last.
The guy in the youtube videos uses glue, but you shouldn't need that. It comes with pre-cut adhesive strips, which work great. One word of caution though... The sheet that they come on is scored for you, but I suggest using an x-acto to cut them out. This is especially important for the thin rectangle that goes around the outside of the glass. You really don't want to pull on that... you don't want it to get stretched or twisted. Summary: the strips work great, just be careful extracting them from the sheet they come on, and placing them on the phone.
Don't forget to get the red earpiece grill off of the old glass before throwing it away. You'll need to super glue that back onto the housing, but it's really easy to see where it goes. This should be the only thing you need glue for.
When removing the glass, cleaning up gunk from the old adhesive, and applying new adhesive, be careful of the electronics at the bottom for your capacitive buttons... you definitely don't want to harm or obstruct those.
This should probably go without saying, but make sure not to touch the inside of the new glass, or the LCD panel. You don't want fingerprints or dust inside the phone. Even if you don't touch it, I would still give it a shot of compressed air right before putting it in, just to make sure there's no dust.
I would say that it's probably worth the extra $10-12 bucks to get it with the housing already included, but it's definitely not necessary if you want to save a little money. As I said above, it only took me about a half hour to get the old glass out and the new glass in, and from what it sounds like, there is still some effort involved even if you get it with the housing (moving the circuitry from the old one). I wouldn't worry about breaking the frame... it's pretty strong. If you break it, you're doing it wrong. Although, if your frame has some scrapes and other assorted road rash on it like mine does (see first picture), then maybe you might want a new one anyway. Another consideration... the reviews on Amazon for the one without the housing are much better, but that could just be because of people who don't know what they're doing... who knows.
If you have any questions, I'd certainly be willing to help... PM me if you want. And if I'm going to be around when you go to actually do the replacement, I can give you my gchat address in case you have any questions during the process.
I cracked my screen a while back and every time I look at it I get sad. Now recently I found on YouTube that it actually seems fairly simple to replace your screen yourself. I'm just wondering if anyone else has replaced their own and has any tips before I order the parts.
You can replace just the glass but the correct way to do it is replace the complete digitizer glass set. There is a special adhesive film which bonds the digitizer to the glass and you can never duplicate it as if you where doing the complete set up.
You will notice it more when using your device in the sun, the screen will be very difficult to see
Have a great day!
Dont do the glass only fix. Spend the extra money and get the front half of the phone and re-mount everything to it.
atleast they've dropped in price a bit, use to be a 250 dollar fix, now its around 150.
Just make sure youre getting the one thats compatible with Sprint. Theres a slightly almost unnoticeable size difference between verizon/att/sprint models and sprint motherboards will not fit in to att/vzw frames. IDK Why they did this.
Have a pro do it. I learned that back on my iPhone 3g and buy OEM not a eBay knock off that breaks easier.