This should allow you to remove the security and CID locks from the HTC Hero.
Do *not* attempt this if you haven't done this sort of thing before or are at all unsure; I can't be held responsible if you break your phone.
You will need:
* An HTC debug *serial* cable. There are instructions on how to build one elsewhere on xda-developers.com.
* Serial terminal software - I use minicom under linux myself.
* A USB cable.
* The zip file downloaded from here.
* A PC with a copy of the "fastboot" program.
* A HERO handset with the 63.18.55.06_6.35.04.25 radio firmware version and the 1.76.0004 HBOOT version. Other versions can probably be supported, but I've no interest in doing this myself. However, source is included in the download for others to do so if they wish.
Overview:
The MSM7201A used on the Hero has two CPU cores, an ARM9 and an ARM11. The ARM9 runs the radio software, and the ARM11 runs android. The ARM9 boots its own bootloaders first, which sets up the radio, and security. It then boots the ARM11 CPU, which runs its own bootloader, providing the "fastboot" functionality amongst other things.
Both CPUs use the same DRAM, but there is a hardware paritioning system built into the MSM7201A which prevents each CPU from writing to each others memory spaces. Luckily this can be disabled.
The ARM9 bootloader can be entered by holding VOLUP when powering up. The phone will vibrate three times and the power LED will be green. However the screen will remain black. This supports many serial commands, only a few of which are available in security-locked mode.
The ARM11 bootloader can be entered by holding VOLDOWN or BACK when powering up. It shows the three-androids-on-skateboards logo. It supports USB control using the android-specific fastboot protocol, but also has a serial HBOOT mode which supports a few commands. There is a second hidden set of commands which are not accessible without software patching.
This patch will:
* Temporarily enable the additional ARM11 commands.
* Temporarily disable checks on a few ARM9 radio AT commands to allow the removal of locks.
The patches to the software are done in RAM, so the patches will "vanish" on a powercycle. However, executing the patched AT commands below will write to HTC config area in flash, so the security-off and super-CID modes /will/ persist.
Instructions:
Note: all commands obviously need <ENTER> pressed after them
1. Connect the serial cable and start your terminal software (115200 8N1)
2. Power up the phone holding down VOLDOWN (this boots into the ARM11 HBOOT mode). You should see various messages and get a command prompt.
3. Type "rtask b" and wait for a while until it says "AT-Command Interpreter ready" (this starts the radio software running on the ARM9 and accesses its AT interface).
4. Type "retuoR" (this returns to the ARM11 HBOOT software).
5. Enter fastboot mode by pressing the "BACK" button on the phone.
6. Unplug the serial cable and plug in the USB cable.
7. Boot the hackspl.img by running "fastboot boot hackspl.img" on your PC.
8. The screen will go black and show the normal boot logo. However if you press "VOLDOWN" the screen should clear and you'll re-enter HBOOT mode.
9. Unplug the USB cable and plug in the serial cable again.
10. Type "rtask b" - This will enter the radio AT interface.
11. Type "ATE1" - this will enable character echo mode, which helps with typing a lot!
12. Type "[email protected]=8,0" - this will disable security. It should print "0" when done, which may take a few seconds.
13. Type "[email protected]=11111111" - this will set the "Super-CID". It should print "0" when done, which may take a few seconds.
14. Type "retuoR" - returns to the ARM11 bootloader.
15. Type "erasebcid" - this will erase the "backup CID" from the ARM11.
After this lot, your phone should be security unlocked and be super-CID. On reboot, the ARM11 skateboard screen should say "S-OFF" instead of "S-ON"
on the top line. On a normal boot, you should see "Device is Super-CID" printed over the serial port at some point before it boots android.
You will be able to flash system/boot/recovery etc directly using the fastboot command from your PC.
If you type "h" after step 15, you'll see a much bigger list of commands than normal - these are the ARM11 hidden commands.
If you boot into the ARM9 bootloader (hold VOLUP on powerup) with security-off, and type "h" you'll see a list of some of the ARM9 commands. There are actually more; it just doesn't list them in the help screen.
Thanks for this hack adq. Just tried this now and can confirm it worked fine.
For console I built a TTL console cable using "HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300". This connector has 2xEXT USB (1 for headphone and 1 for data/charge) pluss 2xheadphone plugs. Inside there is two boards. 1 board connected for USB Data/Charge and one for the others. So removing the board for headset and connecting the pins to TTL adapter I got both console and USB connectivity at the same time. Hence, I did not have to replug during your process
My device was factory programmed with hboot 1.76.0007 and radio 63.18.55.06EU_6.35.06.18. I downgraded from both these to the ones you specified before attempting the hack.
I have now upgraded back to hboot 1.76.0007 and radio 63.18.55.06EU_6.35.06.18. The security and cid is still keept from the hack!
Great job adq,
Best regards,
Exion
great work adq, works fine!
Exion said:
I have now upgraded back to hboot 1.76.0007 and radio 63.18.55.06EU_6.35.06.18. The security and cid is still keept from the hack!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even if the bootloader says HERO CVT SHIP S-OFF, the fastboot boot command does still not work in 1.76.0007 bootloader. So I have reverted back to 1.76.0004 again for now. Maybe there is more we need to modify ?
Exion said:
Thanks for this hack adq. Just tried this now and can confirm it worked fine.
For console I built a TTL console cable using "HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300". This connector has 2xEXT USB (1 for headphone and 1 for data/charge) pluss 2xheadphone plugs. Inside there is two boards. 1 board connected for USB Data/Charge and one for the others. So removing the board for headset and connecting the pins to TTL adapter I got both console and USB connectivity at the same time. Hence, I did not have to replug during your process
My device was factory programmed with hboot 1.76.0007 and radio 63.18.55.06EU_6.35.06.18. I downgraded from both these to the ones you specified before attempting the hack.
I have now upgraded back to hboot 1.76.0007 and radio 63.18.55.06EU_6.35.06.18. The security and cid is still keept from the hack!
Great job adq,
Best regards,
Exion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello . can u please take some photos on HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300 and the inside of it so i cnow what i need to do
Quick question to adq:
Is the unlocking with serial cable the only way to get this done? Or is there a way to flash a S-OFF SPL using normal methods?
If not, then I guess it's time to bring out the ol' good soldering iron
Thanks, made this a sticky, file moved to a more permanent location
Nice!
I need to make myself a cable now...
P
Could it be possible to make the cable using a USB2serial adapter and than use an extUSB breakout board and a rs232 connector and solder them together (correct pins) and then just connect the rs232 to the USB2rs232 adapter and the adapter in PC?
B
packetlss said:
Quick question to adq:
Is the unlocking with serial cable the only way to get this done? Or is there a way to flash a S-OFF SPL using normal methods?
If not, then I guess it's time to bring out the ol' good soldering iron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, not with the code as it is right now. However, there's no reason someone else couldn't take the code and remove the serial requirement; this was simply the fastest way to get the thing working. I'm not very interested in doing this myself though, as I want to get on with looking at other things.
oblika said:
Could it be possible to make the cable using a USB2serial adapter and than use an extUSB breakout board and a rs232 connector and solder them together (correct pins) and then just connect the rs232 to the USB2rs232 adapter and the adapter in PC?
B
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I use a USB->(3.3v) serial adapter with the HTC serial breakout board soldered to the other side of it; my laptop doesn't have a serial interface otherwise.
hi!
just to ask, what will be advantages of this??
greetings
adq said:
Hi, I use a USB->(3.3v) serial adapter with the HTC serial breakout board soldered to the other side of it; my laptop doesn't have a serial interface otherwise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I currently have a Digitus USB 2.0 -> rs232 (http://www.digitus.info/en/products/accessories/?c=1216&p=3530). Does this adapter seem ok to you?
I have done some googling and found out that it has FTDI chip (FT232BM)? I just want to make sure that it uses 3.3V.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/FT232BM.htm
http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataSheets/DS_FT232BM.pdf
---
Where did you order the breakout board? I'm from Slovenia (Europe). Where would be the best place to order?
B
Can somebody with S-OFF dump their SPL?
oblika said:
I currently have a Digitus USB 2.0 -> rs232 (http://www.digitus.info/en/products/accessories/?c=1216&p=3530). Does this adapter seem ok to you?
I have done some googling and found out that it has FTDI chip (FT232BM)? I just want to make sure that it uses 3.3V.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/FT232BM.htm
http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataSheets/DS_FT232BM.pdf
---
Where did you order the breakout board? I'm from Slovenia (Europe). Where would be the best place to order?
B
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah - if that's specifically a USB->RS232 adaptor, that will most likely run at 12v, so it'd fry the phone.
www.sparkfun.com have the HTC breakout boards; they also have USB->3.3v serial adaptors such as http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=198, but you'll have to make certain its *definitely* 3.3v; even 5v might fry it. I paranoidly checked at the last minute with a voltmeter.
There's an instructables article about it here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Android_G1_Serial_Cable/
Looking about, I see www.coolcomponents.co.uk have such things in the UK.
Adq, sorry to bother you again.
Looking at your suggestions above, would these items make a good start off point to for making a cable then?
http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=100
http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=266
felikz said:
just to ask, what will be advantages of this??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to know this too, thanks.
O MY GOD,Can someone translate it into Chinese?It is very important to me...................
thank you adq!
KinkyGolab said:
hello . can u please take some photos on HTC Multifunction Audio Cable YC A300 and the inside of it so i cnow what i need to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi KinkyGolab,
You can get the pinout details/pictures from my wiki http://www.suphammer.net/Hero/ExtUSB
Please note there is two PCB's in the dongle. I have only investigated the connections for the audio board (where the TTL serial signals are available).
Please use a TTL 3v level serial adapter when connecting to the serial pins. Connecting the serialport of your pc directly to the serial pins of the HTC will damage your HTC.
Best regards,
Exion
erm guys, what should be the reason to break the security of one's phone?!
Related
I have a problem. My Exec is stuck on the bootloader screen. All I see is Serial at the top, and v1.00 at the bottom.
When I connect my exec via USB, the screen continues to say Serial (rather than switching to USB) and the PC I connect to 'installs' the device as 'unknown device' in device manager.
I've seen mention of the problem elsewhere on the site, but the only solution I can find seems to be to keep trying, and eventually it's recognised. So far, after three days of trying, it has not been recognised.
I am aware of Buzz tool to get the device out of bootloader mode, but that required a connection to be established, which at the moment, I can't do.
Has anyone got any experience of this, or any ideas as to what's causing this, or how this can be fixed? I have tried uninstalling the 'unknown device' from device manger, restarting the PC (and hard reset of the Exec) then reconnecting, but the same thing happens every time.
Any ideas would be appreciated, as I'm currently staring at a rather expensive paper weight.
Try this it shld work
hdubli said:
This is based on my experience with two UNis..one Exec and other JASJAR..both had same problem...this is how I solved :
-Put yr device in bootloader Mode
-Disable USB in Active Sync
-Now connect woth USB cable and open mtty utility
-Select the "WESUSB... " port
-You shall see a blank white screen..press Enter to get "USB>"
-Then type ( as BUzz has informed) set 14 0
(here I wud like to inform that after doing the above I did not get success so I typed set 14 10,then set 14 9 for two three times)
-Then I ran the ROM Upgrade directly(After enbabling the USB)
-I then followed the procedure as informed on the COngratulations Screen that is hold the two "-" buttons and soft reset and then pressed 0
-I got them back to normal..
I hope this helps to all my friends...Pls feel free..pls do not trouble our Buzz..he might be busy in inventing something more to our devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guru Meditation said:
I have a problem. My Exec is stuck on the bootloader screen. All I see is Serial at the top, and v1.00 at the bottom.
When I connect my exec via USB, the screen continues to say Serial (rather than switching to USB) and the PC I connect to 'installs' the device as 'unknown device' in device manager.
I've seen mention of the problem elsewhere on the site, but the only solution I can find seems to be to keep trying, and eventually it's recognised. So far, after three days of trying, it has not been recognised.
I am aware of Buzz tool to get the device out of bootloader mode, but that required a connection to be established, which at the moment, I can't do.
Has anyone got any experience of this, or any ideas as to what's causing this, or how this can be fixed? I have tried uninstalling the 'unknown device' from device manger, restarting the PC (and hard reset of the Exec) then reconnecting, but the same thing happens every time.
Just noticed your user name, I was a big Amiga fan a few years back, still fire up Amiga forever occasionally on my PC when I feel the need.
Any ideas would be appreciated, as I'm currently staring at a rather expensive paper weight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try it with a different USB cable or in a different USB port (don't go through a hub and if you've been using a laptop then try it on a desktop PC since some laptops have hubs built into them). If that doesn't work then you're out of luck as your Universal isn't detecting that you've connected to your PC and its time to send it in for repair.
Thanks Niketkumar - unfortunately it's the step before your suggestion kicks in thats the problem - the device won't connect to the PC, so when using mtty WESUSB..... isn't an option, only COM1 and COM2.
Shuflie, I've tried with three separate USB cables on a laptop and desktop (neither through a hub, and the same device has worked fine on both laptop and desktop before).
I fear a trip to the doctors is in order ...
Very frustrating because the PC sees a device, but installs it as unknown device. Anyone know if theres a Windows CE device driver that I could try and install as an overide (i.e. in device manager on the PC go to update driver and browse to a WinCE.inf or equivalent?)
Failing this, has anyone got any clue what needs to be fixed? Or how much it might cost?
i am stuck on the same problem and wondering the forum for almost 3 days now with no luck.... please help my device is in boot loader mood but not turning the serial to USB ......... please HELP.......
solution
Guru Meditation said:
Thanks Niketkumar - unfortunately it's the step before your suggestion kicks in thats the problem - the device won't connect to the PC, so when using mtty WESUSB..... isn't an option, only COM1 and COM2.
Shuflie, I've tried with three separate USB cables on a laptop and desktop (neither through a hub, and the same device has worked fine on both laptop and desktop before).
I fear a trip to the doctors is in order ...
Very frustrating because the PC sees a device, but installs it as unknown device. Anyone know if theres a Windows CE device driver that I could try and install as an overide (i.e. in device manager on the PC go to update driver and browse to a WinCE.inf or equivalent?)
Failing this, has anyone got any clue what needs to be fixed? Or how much it might cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please follow the steps:
1. Plug in ur usb cable in bootloader mode while it is showing 'serial' and version 'x.xx'.
2. Soft reset by pressing Backlight+power+reset pin WHILE KEEPING THE USB CABLE CONNECTED
3. your phone will now reboot into 'usb' mode. Don't remove the usb cable yet.
4. Remove the Memory card while keeping the usb cable still connected and VOILA,your pc starts recognising your phone as Microsoft usb sync.
5. Do whatever you want to do now (upgrade)
Hope it solves the problem now.
Press thanks if it does.
Something else to try
Having had a few issues with my G3 Uni, I've been through my fare share of Uni bootloader issues. When I find that I can't get the 'serial' to go to 'USB', I normally find it's because I haven't taken the memory card or the SIM card out (usually the memory card).
Make sure your memory card is out, then try to enter the bootloader and see if this cures it. If it does, then use mtty and the command 'set 14 0'
This tells it to reboot on reset. if you were to use 'set 14 1' it would go back to the bootloader on reset.
my Htc hd2 t-mobile won't recognize usb on boot-loader mode
hey guys i have a big problem!!!! my Htc hd2 t-mobile won't recognize usb on boot-loader mode. Here is the story my phone was running android 2.3.7 cyanogen 7 but i wanted to update it to ics android 4.0.4, So to do that i restarted my phone while holding down the down volume button and the boot-loader with the three colors came-on saying serial but when i connect my usb cable it won't show usb. even when i tried to run the dft.exe it shows an error saying usb connection failed. BY the way it lets me access the sd card using the usb cable on my pc, so i don't know what the problem is. PLEAS HEALP i am begging u guys pleas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
kaleb2954 said:
hey guys i have a big problem!!!! my Htc hd2 t-mobile won't recognize usb on boot-loader mode. Here is the story my phone was running android 2.3.7 cyanogen 7 but i wanted to update it to ics android 4.0.4, So to do that i restarted my phone while holding down the down volume button and the boot-loader with the three colors came-on saying serial but when i connect my usb cable it won't show usb. even when i tried to run the dft.exe it shows an error saying usb connection failed. BY the way it lets me access the sd card using the usb cable on my pc, so i don't know what the problem is. PLEAS HEALP i am begging u guys pleas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have the wrong forum friends! This Htc Universal section
to update Android on HTC HD2, you can use the Clock Work Mod Recovery !! for more details should refer to this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1021837
I-MATE JASJAR hung
Guru Meditation said:
Thanks Niketkumar - unfortunately it's the step before your suggestion kicks in thats the problem - the device won't connect to the PC, so when using mtty WESUSB..... isn't an option, only COM1 and COM2.
Shuflie, I've tried with three separate USB cables on a laptop and desktop (neither through a hub, and the same device has worked fine on both laptop and desktop before).
I fear a trip to the doctors is in order ...
Very frustrating because the PC sees a device, but installs it as unknown device. Anyone know if theres a Windows CE device driver that I could try and install as an overide (i.e. in device manager on the PC go to update driver and browse to a WinCE.inf or equivalent?)
Failing this, has anyone got any clue what needs to be fixed? Or how much it might cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi every one,
i have a serious problem with my HTC I-MATE JASJAR what's blocked in white screen (Serial / USB) and i cannot do anything on it, no boot, no reset soft, no reset Hard, no upgrade.
The issue is related to:
I tried to upgrade Radio ROM from 1.09.00 to 1.12 and i'm using Windows 7 Pro and when starting Flash, my PC shutdown because an electrical issue and since that, i cannot boot my device, i cannot flash or reset, my device is hung on white screen with Serial when no USB cable bluged in the PC and USB when Cable is pluged.
I Tried many times to boot it but no response, it's still hung and nothing can move on it.
I Just have one detail: when i plug the USB cable in my PC, the device is reconised but when starting upgrade or flash, i have error 101, no connexion.
Plz someone help me
bechir2013 said:
Hi every one,
i have a serious problem with my HTC I-MATE JASJAR what's blocked in white screen (Serial / USB) and i cannot do anything on it, no boot, no reset soft, no reset Hard, no upgrade.
The issue is related to:
I tried to upgrade Radio ROM from 1.09.00 to 1.12 and i'm using Windows 7 Pro and when starting Flash, my PC shutdown because an electrical issue and since that, i cannot boot my device, i cannot flash or reset, my device is hung on white screen with Serial when no USB cable bluged in the PC and USB when Cable is pluged.
I Tried many times to boot it but no response, it's still hung and nothing can move on it.
I Just have one detail: when i plug the USB cable in my PC, the device is reconised but when starting upgrade or flash, i have error 101, no connexion.
Plz someone help me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look here
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5456317&postcount=6
the first point...
A lot easier than to root this device
All of the instructions I found for doing this weren't exactly clear, so I'm writing this out in a way that even dummies like me can understand. So, my Nvidia Shield TV got soft bricked when I tried to update my TWRP to this version.
First, you have two options for the cables:
This: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=9724
and this: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5443
Plug them into each other so they're just 1 cable now.
The second option is to use a USB to micro USB data/charging cable, like the one that it came with.
Here are the steps, read it completely through 1 time before doing anything. I find that makes things easier to understand when you're ready to actually do it.
Install FASTBOOT DRIVERS: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload#?search=SHIELD Family Windows USB
Install Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
Download OS Image: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload
Extract the OS Image to your desktop.
Go to the installation folder for Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB and copy its contents into the OS Image folder you just created.
Open a Windows command prompt in this folder.
Make sure power cable & USB OTG cable on NSATV are UNPLUGGED.
Make sure HDMI cable is PLUGGED IN.
Plug the standard USB end of the USB OTG cable pair into a PC.
*** DO THE STEPS BELOW IN THE EXACT ORDER ***
Plug in USB OTG end of the USB OTG cable pair into NSATV.
Plug in the power cable. The next step follows quick.
Quickly touch and hold the power button until the FASTBOOT screen appears on your TV, then release.
Now, go back to your PC.
In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
Make sure the fastboot device appears.
If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions in the HowTo-Flash-Recovery-Image.txt file.
I hope this helps. If there's any part that's confusing, let me know and I'll edit it.
Yeah, you guys are awsome, it worked!!!!!
Thanks so much for all your help and advice :good:
You could also just use the charge cable that you get for your controllers rather than buying the extra cables, it works fine.
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
gffmac said:
You could also just use the charge cable that you get for your controllers rather than buying the extra cables, it works fine.
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't need an OTG cable?
Nope, using the supplied cable just connect the micro usb end to shield other to PC and bobs your uncle ?
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
any idea if this will work for my shield 16GB? since i was updating it to 3.0 this morning and the electric went now all it does it boot right to TWRP recovery. also i still have access to fastboot.
beefy143 said:
any idea if this will work for my shield 16GB? since i was updating it to 3.0 this morning and the electric went now all it does it boot right to TWRP recovery. also i still have access to fastboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It should?
tried and no it does not just left at the nvidia boot creen with the odd black screen reboot back to the nvidia symbol any ideas as to what i can do to fix my shield?
beefy143 said:
tried and no it does not just left at the nvidia boot creen with the odd black screen reboot back to the nvidia symbol any ideas as to what i can do to fix my shield?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Follow the instructions EXACTLY. I have the 16Gb model and mine was doing the same thing as yours.
Just to repeat what others said the back of the shield TV has a microusb port so you don't need a otg cable just use any standard microusb cable you have laying around plug small end into shield TV and big end to laptop/computer
Hi!
I tried but failed. The issue is, that it reboots directly after showing the recovery menu.
Only see it 2 seconds, then reboot. No reaction on menu choices...
I guess it happened when I tried to copy the SD card to another one.
You should be using fast boot to do this. Plus, there's no SD card in the instructions. Not sure what you are trying to do.
JoCamel said:
Hi!
I tried but failed. The issue is, that it reboots directly after showing the recovery menu.
Only see it 2 seconds, then reboot. No reaction on menu choices...
I guess it happened when I tried to copy the SD card to another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try again without an sd card attached maybe. Also try 'fastboot boot recovery.img' instead of flashing it.
Neo3D said:
[*]In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
[*]Make sure the fastboot device appears.
[*]If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
All fine up to that point... Fastboot Devices... nothing shows up!
? anyone?
My box is stock, I have not messed with it at all.
if i not enable debug? how to do?
fredphoesh said:
Hi
All fine up to that point... Fastboot Devices... nothing shows up!
? anyone?
My box is stock, I have not messed with it at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be a driver issue? Make sure the drivers are properly installed and working? Try rebooting?
Will these steps work with the 2017 16GB version? Cause I want to have full Android on the Shield but the processes I've seen are pretty confusing.
I want to try this, will this work with the new 5.2 update?
Jabadabaduu!! It solved my problem
Hey Neo
First of all, your guide saved my day! - Thanx!
I know this must be a strange question, but is the person on your XDA profile picture, and the one that has written the article really the same person ?
Neo3D said:
All of the instructions I found for doing this weren't exactly clear, so I'm writing this out in a way that even dummies like me can understand. So, my Nvidia Shield TV got soft bricked when I tried to update my TWRP to this version.
First, you have two options for the cables:
This: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=9724
and this: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5443
Plug them into each other so they're just 1 cable now.
The second option is to use a USB to micro USB data/charging cable, like the one that it came with.
Here are the steps, read it completely through 1 time before doing anything. I find that makes things easier to understand when you're ready to actually do it.
Install FASTBOOT DRIVERS: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload#?search=SHIELD Family Windows USB
Install Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
Download OS Image: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload
Extract the OS Image to your desktop.
Go to the installation folder for Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB and copy its contents into the OS Image folder you just created.
Open a Windows command prompt in this folder.
Make sure power cable & USB OTG cable on NSATV are UNPLUGGED.
Make sure HDMI cable is PLUGGED IN.
Plug the standard USB end of the USB OTG cable pair into a PC.
*** DO THE STEPS BELOW IN THE EXACT ORDER ***
Plug in USB OTG end of the USB OTG cable pair into NSATV.
Plug in the power cable. The next step follows quick.
Quickly touch and hold the power button until the FASTBOOT screen appears on your TV, then release.
Now, go back to your PC.
In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
Make sure the fastboot device appears.
If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions in the HowTo-Flash-Recovery-Image.txt file.
I hope this helps. If there's any part that's confusing, let me know and I'll edit it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, works like a charm
my a2 lite does not connet to my pc, I have installed drivers, put it on usb debug, but my pc does not recognize de phone, I have tried different usb ports and cables with no success, it does charge eventually with some cables, but I don't know if this is hardware problem or there is any setting I am missing, it does not give me any choice of chosing the usb kind of conection
it is a new phone just prepped for everyday use, not hacked or modded in any way
USB OTG is working but only reading, I cannot write in external usb drive with es file explorer, or the includer file aplication, it says unsupported operation
any help?
Set hardware id in the adb_usb.ini file perhaps
cpu004 said:
Set hardware id in the adb_usb.ini file perhaps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you, but I cannot acces from adb as there is absolutely no conection from my computer, it only starts charging but as if it were just a charger, there is no usb mode options avalaible y my phone, and the pc does not recognize anything conected
I have tried to connect with another computer with the same results, it only gets power, but no data comunication whatsoever
as nobody gives any clue or info about some hidden setting, I must assume this is another case of bad quality control in xiaomi products, I will check with the seller
Did you specifically set file transfer mode via the notification drawer or left it on charge only?
cpu004 said:
Did you specifically set file transfer mode via the notification drawer or left it on charge only?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the phone does not detect either that it is connected to a computer, so the notification to select the mode of connection does not even show
I have tried usb otg and I can read fine but I cannot write at all in a pendrive
I have installed also an sd card as internal memory and have storage errors all the time so I have removed it
I have tried also conection in fastboot mode but the computer still does not recognize anything connected
I have uses several cables, usb ports and even 2 different pc with same results
My only guess is that there were some hidden config setting that is messing with the phone, that's the reason I am asking before going to the seller.
Seems like a broken USB pin then
cpu004 said:
Seems like a broken USB pin then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
an usb pin should not affect internal sd memory, and usb does not work like water pipes, one pin data in one pin data out, they need both data pins for reading also, so as it can read from pendrive the problem is somewhere else, not in the connector.
This could be a hardware problem. Have you tried to connect it to another computer?
I have already tried on 3 diferent computers with same results. The only diference so far is that it actually does not read either the content of a pendrive connected through OTG, the first day it read it, now it only detects but reads nothing.
Also when sd is configured as internal memory, instead of reading internal memory, that seems to be the normal result, I can read only the sd card with android file explorers
I have the same problem.
No connection data with pc/mac, it only charges.
I'm italian and like many other italians, I've also the problem with Sim slot 2 with no connect..
robiox said:
I have the same problem.
No connection data with pc/mac, it only charges.
I'm italian and like many other italians, I've also the problem with Sim slot 2 with no connect..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is good to know I am not the only one.
F**k, this phone starts to look like a piece of garbage I dont connect to USB, I dont use SD not 2nd sim, so I did not experience these issues, but, f**k again..
Have you tried rebooting? Press the power button for 15secs. to power it off. Use another cable, use another PC, make sure the cable is plugged in properly... bla bla bla. Oh, have you tried placing the phone into a dry rice bowl? Haha (sorry, I had to). I'm sure you've tried it all.
So, I have not much to say. Only that I had a similar problem with a Moto G after I flashed a LineageOS ROM. It worked fine before, but with the new ROM, the USB didn't work at all (it could only read OTG). It was stuck in the "charging" mode. No notification nor option to turn it to file transfer. The PC didn't recognise it at all, either.
Solution? Initially, I turned on USB debuging option and the PC saw the phone (on windows device manager, it was there, but not on MyPc). It was some advance. I can't remember if adb detected it.
Final solution? Luckily my phone was rooted and had a custom recovery, so I could easily flash the same ROM from the TWRP recovery and everything works fine now.
You might try using Xiaomi's flash tool to try to flash the orginal ROM again IF the phone is recognised by the tool (try if it can see the phone) http://en.miui.com/download-354.html
And I suggest contacting Xiaomi for a warranty claim if needed, 'cause it looks like a harware problem (a pin the the microUSB port issue). But be ready to answer the questions posted above several times haha.
Good luck!
adriakus said:
Have you tried rebooting? Press the power button for 15secs. to power it off. Use another cable, use another PC, make sure the cable is plugged in properly... bla bla bla. Oh, have you tried placing the phone into a dry rice bowl? Haha (sorry, I had to). I'm sure you've tried it all.
So, I have not much to say. Only that I had a similar problem with a Moto G after I flashed a LineageOS ROM. It worked fine before, but with the new ROM, the USB didn't work at all (it could only read OTG). It was stuck in the "charging" mode. No notification nor option to turn it to file transfer. The PC didn't recognise it at all, either.
Solution? Initially, I turned on USB debuging option and the PC saw the phone (on windows device manager, it was there, but not on MyPc). It was some advance. I can't remember if adb detected it.
Final solution? Luckily my phone was rooted and had a custom recovery, so I could easily flash the same ROM from the TWRP recovery and everything works fine now.
You might try using Xiaomi's flash tool to try to flash the orginal ROM again IF the phone is recognised by the tool (try if it can see the phone) http://en.miui.com/download-354.html
And I suggest contacting Xiaomi for a warranty claim if needed, 'cause it looks like a harware problem (a pin the the microUSB port issue). But be ready to answer the questions posted above several times haha.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done all your sugestions previously, even reseting phone with a new gmail account so no config setting from other phone could interfere, I have also tried fastboot, but although phones goes to fast boot mode the pc does not recognize connection either
it is not an usb pin issue, tried 6 cables, 4 computers, 10 or more usb 2 an 3 ports, I am negotianting in aliexpress a refund, we'll see
If I go into recovery mode with power vol+ a broken android appears.
elsita said:
I have done all your sugestions previously, even reseting phone with a new gmail account so no config setting from other phone could interfere, I have also tried fastboot, but although phones goes to fast boot mode the pc does not recognize connection either
it is not an usb pin issue, tried 6 cables, 4 computers, 10 or more usb 2 an 3 ports, I am negotianting in aliexpress a refund, we'll see
If I go into recovery mode with power vol+ a broken android appears.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you already did this, but try using a PC with Linux (you can use Ubuntu without installing it on the PC, then install the fastboot package).
Hi,
I had no problem with fastboot and adb with Mac!
Phone recognized by the machine and do transfer boot.img for magisk...
Now I Win!
I can see the internal memory with Android File Transfer (Trasferimento File Android in italian!) - this is the link https://www.android.com/filetransfer/.
My version of Build is V.9.6.8.0.
Solution:
- Connect the phone to pc/mac;
- Go to: Settings -> System -> Developer Options -> Select USB Configuration -> select first "Charge" and then "MTP" (Media Transfer Protocol)
- The system recognize the phone!
[for italian, like me, andare su Impostazioni -> Opzioni Sviluppatore -> Seleziona Configurazione USB -> scegliere "Ricarica" e poi "MTP" (Media Transfer Protocol) ]
robiox said:
Hi,
I had no problem with fastboot and adb with Mac!
Phone recognized by the machine and do transfer boot.img for magisk...
Now I Win!
I can see the internal memory with Android File Transfer (Trasferimento File Android in italian!) - this is the link https://www.android.com/filetransfer/.
My version of Build is V.9.6.8.0.
Solution:
- Connect the phone to pc/mac;
- Go to: Settings -> System -> Developer Options -> Select USB Configuration -> select first "Charge" and then "MTP" (Media Transfer Protocol)
- The system recognize the phone!
[for italian, like me, andare su Impostazioni -> Opzioni Sviluppatore -> Seleziona Configurazione USB -> scegliere "Ricarica" e poi "MTP" (Media Transfer Protocol) ]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
somehow i was able to connect through fastboot with the help os some advanced users, I unlocked boot and managed to flash original firmware using fastboot mode, the result: no usb connection, no pendrive otg, sd card as internal memory gives storage errors all the time ...
so the phone is faulty, now I am at aliexpress hands claiming for a refund and send back phone
elsita said:
somehow i was able to connect through fastboot with the help os some advanced users, I unlocked boot and managed to flash original firmware using fastboot mode, the result: no usb connection, no pendrive otg, sd card as internal memory gives storage errors all the time ...
so the phone is faulty, now I am at aliexpress hands claiming for a refund and send back phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you from? Where did did you purchase the phone (the actual store, is it in China)? Depending on where are you from and what country did you buy the phone from, by law, you'll get manufacturer warranty. So, any "official" distributor in your country will have to provide a warranty solution for you. If Ali Express is unable to provide you with a solution, look into that.
Let us know how it work out for you
adriakus said:
Where are you from? Where did did you purchase the phone (the actual store, is it in China)? Depending on where are you from and what country did you buy the phone from, by law, you'll get manufacturer warranty. So, any "official" distributor in your country will have to provide a warranty solution for you. If Ali Express is unable to provide you with a solution, look into that.
Let us know how it work out for you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am from Spain, and the aliexpress seller has store in Spain, but you know how chinese vendors act ... no agreement so far, and now aliexpress decides, whenever they turn back to work, because China as you may know is a whole year vacation place for workers ...
TCL dont want to help fix this issues when i contact them with this issues they just tell me buy a TV frome another brand if am not happy with TCL.
This issues was direclty out of box never rooted it, so this problie is becouse of a systemapp some is pre-installed had not this issues with my old 2017 TCL Android TV.
And i dont get any help frome TCL for get the adb and stuff i need to try fix this on a TV, on a phone feels like mutch easer becouse i have cabel everything but they dosent relly even send with a cabel on a TV for do some adb.
So i think ask here see if i can get help frome the communty to fix this.
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has ben doing a recovery reset of the TV with a new download file frome tcl webpages, and used the powerbutton on the TV for flash the OS frome scratch again.
The only thing its was going was to create a dubbel device into my Google Play Device list, after that was finnish noting mutch else happens.
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
fuqi said:
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will try it, becouse this fil i have frome TCL webpages only is V8-R851T02-LF1V179, this look like to be 187 returning back after trying it.
Edit: done the update now still the same issues.
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
fuqi said:
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have order one, get it on like 16th, its still far away. But am return when am get the cabel.
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB Type A to USB Type A its that connection i have.
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That i did not know, cold you write the steps for debug on this device?
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
fuqi said:
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not anymore am just pack it down and send it back to the retailers, was feeling like easer go buy me a Sony ZG9 and skip all the issues, at the same time am upgraded frome a 4K to a 8K TV.
recovery , root
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you tell us how to root tcl ep680?
When I press and hold power it enter briefly in a screen with a dead android - no command , and after that it continues booting.
you need a hdmi to uart cable.
if you need more infos just ask
I have only usb to usb cable , I can enter in service menu , and I have acces via adb-wifi. My tv is 55ep660 but it look very similar as platform it is also rt2851.
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
mihaianti said:
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
fuqi said:
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok , thank you!
it can not download.......
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please @fuqi, if there's a way, could you please show us how we could wire HDMI to USB connection so I could install an update since HDMI is the service port and whatever image I put in USB it doesn't work.
Basically I want to downgrade from rbox's pre-rooted version 5.2.7.2_r1 back to 5.2.6.3_r1.
I use ADB via Windows 10 with no problems, I've access to SU, FireTV is rooted and TWRP 3.0.0.7 is installed.
In the past I would just boot into TWRP recovery and select any of rbox' pre-rooted rom and hit install/upgrade and all went well since 2016.
This is the first time trying to downgrade, TWRP recovery went well 5.2.6.3_r1 got installed, but no way to login into my Amazon A/C (kept saying login/password combinations not correct, but they were 100% correct).
One thing interesting is before I could see my bootloader as fully unlocked as "[email protected]", but now I see its only partial unlocked ([email protected])?
Update:
It seems like I do have rooo#bueller? from this picture after typing adb shell and su?
Any help will be much appreciated!
In regards to your original post on the bueller thread - have you tried re-enabling updates? A few other members here found that disabling updates on their sloane (see here) stopped them from using particular apps on 5.2.7.2 until they re-enabled updates, allowed the Fire TV to download updated apk files & then disabled them again
If that doesn't work: I had a Fire TV recently that I thought it was blacklisted by Amazon (wouldn't log in with the correct details), but turns out it was just never registered as a AFTV on their end & was being refused a connection. This obviously won't be your case, but something similar could be happening, so I would suggest you remove the device from your account (here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hz/mycd/myx#/home/devices/1) & then attempt to log in again - if this doesn't work, maybe talk to Amazon via their live chat, ask them to register your device to your account manually (they'll happily do it) & attempt login again after a hour or two (that worked for me).
edit: I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8 due to changes within the partitions, therefore, if you do so, you essentially brick your device after reboot as the prerooted zip only flashes boot/preloader/LK, then at boot, the rpmb checks to see if all those files match & when they don't, sends the device into a bootloop. If this was a Fire TV 2, you'd be in luck, but unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.
DanielF50 said:
I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
DanielF50 said:
there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
DanielF50 said:
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.[/B]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Hi Daniel, thanks for taking the time to write.
Yes my bootloader is fully unlocked, and my unit is rooted with TWRP installed.
Hi Sus_i, where are you at? If you can try the "hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron)" thing on my FireTV, I will compensate you for your time and ship the unit to you (I'm near the border, so US/CAN addresses are fine with me).
Ok, this is what happened in my case:
My FireTV 1 background - bought directly from Amazon, rooted back in 2015/2016, bootloader fully unlocked and TWRP installed in 2017.
1) Was running on rbox's pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1
2) Updated to rbox's 5.2.7.2_r1 and discovered that upon resuming/waking up from sleep the unit always return to the Home page instead of whatever page/Tab you left it as in 5.2.6.3_r1, also Alexa and few other APPS were automatically installed in 5.2.7.2_r1.
I only use 4 APPS on my FireTV, an APK from my IPTV (90 %), VLC to watch videos from my own local Network (5%), CX_File Explorer to move/transfer files (3%) and NewPipe (alternative to YouTube) (2%).
rbox’s pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1 is perfect for my needs above, as I NEVER need to see the Amazon Home screen or any ads. Only the 1st time after a power off/on that I would ever see the Home page and from there on I would navigate to the “Settings” Tab – “Applications” Tab – “Manage Applications” and I only see a few pre-installed APPS from Amazon and my 4 APPS above and going to sleep mode and waking up sleep mode always stays in the “Manage Applications” Tab and NOT Amazon Home page as in 5.2.7.2_r1.
3) Flashing back from 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1/5.2.6.9_r1 to no avail because I would always get an error stating Login ID/password combinations were in errors (Login ID/password were 100% dead correct), also the Developer Options would also no longer showing under My Device/My FireTV Tab. Amazon FireTV support would be quick to add the FireTV under my profile (because they could see I bought it directly from them back in 2014 and they also could see my serial numbers and all along I was the only one registered for this unit), but still no go, so I tried to de-register/re-register again during all the testing and Amazon must had added the FireTV to my profile at least 10 times and in the end it escalated to the point they credited my account $25.00 (this is usually the price of the FireTV Stick 4K during sales/promotions) and also at the same time sent out a FireTV Stick 4K to me FOC.
I’m not a FireTV expert, but just an ordinary user with some sys/programming backgrounds during my early years. I reckon Amazon must had implemented some sort of hard coded checks either on their side (registration) or in the firmware since 5.2.6.3_r1.
4) So now my unit is flashed with 5.2.6.3_r1 and couldn’t get passed the registration screen, what do I do? I re-flash it to 5.2.7.2_r1 and bingo, everything is back to normal again and don’t even need to register the unit. (For testing purposes, I removed my A/C from the unit and re-register again and this time Login ID/password got no errors).
5) Thinking that back from Windows 98SE/2000/XP Pro/W7 Pro and now Windows 10 Pro, no matter what kind of messed I created, I would just format the drive/write zeros and re-image (Ghost image Back-ups) and everything would be normal again. My fireTV is rooted, bootloader is fully unlocked and TWRP installed, I told myself what’s there to afraid of , so I tried to re-flash 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1 and it would always back to the registration error and now double icons under settings, lol.
6) I suspect during one of the re-flash I made a mistake of after clearing/wipe Cache/Dalvik, instead of the default reboot, I ESC back out and redo the install/re-flash thinking that might get rids of all the leftovers that cause the double icons under Settings.
7) Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself. I like to think that the motherboard or the power unit are still alive, just that the software part of it got messed up by ME big time!
Matt_7 said:
Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Sus_i said:
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good information to know, thanks Sus_i :good:
Reading Matt's response, it looks hopeful that he should be able to fastboot into the device to recover it then.
Sus_i said:
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Update:
OK, dfound out I already have fastboot in my platform-tools folder,
From AFTNews:
Enter the command:
fastboot devices
If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.
Download the latest version of ClockworkMod custom recovery from AFTVnews.com/recovery
Rename the file you just downloaded to “recovery.img”
Enter the command:
fastboot flash recovery recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Enter the command:
fastboot boot recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Your Fire TV should now boot into ClockworkMod recovery. Proceed to follow the steps in the next section below labeled “Resetting with Recovery Mode”.
Resetting with Recovery Mode
If you can successfully enter ClockworkMod recovery, then follow the below steps to reset your Fire TV, regardless of what state it is in and what has been done to it. You can also follow these steps if, for example, you want to update your ROM but aren’t sure if you’ve unlocked your bootloader or aren’t sure if you’ve installed the boot menu.
[OPTIONAL] From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe data/factory reset”. This will delete all of your settings and user data. It is an optional step, but is recommended.
From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe cache partition”.
Follow my guide to install pre-rooted Stock ROM version 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated. Note, you are NOT installing the latest pre-rooted ROM on purpose. Do NOT skip ahead and install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Restart your Fire TV. You should be able to boot normally.
Follow my guide to install BusyBox.
Follow my guide to unlock your bootloader.
Follow my guide to install the boot menu.
Follow my guide to install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Matt_7 said:
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, bundled with android-sdk so runs just like you'd use adb, but obviously has a different purpose/commands - I should think there would be info on the full bootloader unlock thread on how to use it to recover from a bootloop using fastboot?
Matt_7 said:
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Sus_i said:
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Matt_7 said:
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would try to boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img and recovery.img
Update 3:
Gosh, I got it to the point of checking for updates and unplugged the internet cable hoping to issue via adb to block OTA, and the FireTV detected no internet connection and asked to unplug the power for a few minutes and I did that, but now no whatsoever light on the FIreTV itself, don't tell me its now dead not because I bricked it the other day, but because of the power unit?
Tested the power adapter with a multimeter, got 6.18V (6.25 is printed on the power adapter), since 6.18V is close to 6.25V, its not the power adapter right?
Update 2:
OK, figured out I could remove the USB A to A cable and use the USB port on the FireTV to connect my Logitech K400 ! (see, I'm not a very smart person!)
- I deleted "Data"
- Tried to wipe cache and got a message "No OS installed"
- No choice but to select install option and install 5.2.7.2_r1
- Now at least I'm seeing the Colourful Amazon logo again, and now its doing the "Optimizing system storage and applications...", wish me luck!
Update 1:
Just received my USB A to A Male to Male (LOL) cable today.
Don't know to jump for joy or cry!
- When I typed "fastbbot devices", I got exactly from "AFTNews - If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.", I got the screen showing me my device/serial number and the word fastboot, so I think its working!
- I then typed "fastboot boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img" and the white Amazon logo was gone I was back in TWRP screen, but I couldn't do anything, the USB port is already used by the USB A to A cable (USB splitter couldn't work either), I see the mouse pointer, but how to move it to reboot/wipe/install/advance etc?
Mayday, help!
Matt_7 said:
Update 1:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 2:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 3:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pull all the plugs from the box + tv and try again...
6.xx v seems ok. Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Sus_i said:
: Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Matt_7 said:
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
Matt_7 said:
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
Matt_7 said:
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Sus_i said:
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try to open up the FireTV.
No light/LED when plugging only the power adapter to the FIreTV, already tried different power outlets throughout the house
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Thanks again.
Matt_7 said:
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will forget about that!
Once I got the FireTV opened, will take some pixs and report back!
OK, here are the pixs.
Now that I look at the Multimeter, I'm not sure I'm using it correctly. Bought this few years ago (just in case I need to test my car's battery).
AT the bottom of the multimeter, there are 3 holes, one red on each side and black hole in the center, which two am I supposed to use?
I tested the power adapter again with multimeter using the center black and red on the right, and I'm reading 4.2V?
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would it be possible just by looking at the board if its kaput?