Hello all.
I dropped my phone pretty hard the other day. I dropped it many times before so I didn't think there would be any damage besides that the battery popped out.
Once I got home and wanted to charge my Artemis I noticed that my USB connector is gone!
Well, I found myself a spare one on eBay, but as I looked at the connections on the circuit board of my Artemis I started to doubt the possibility to put another USB connector in there.
Some pins seem to be damaged real bad but not all of them, and then again I only want to be able to charge my phone and will not use the USB connector for syncing or using a headphone.
Can someone take a look at the picture I took and see if its still possible to attach a new USB connector to my Artemis and if it will at least be able to charge the battery?
Photo of circuit board:
Many thanks!
Repair of the USB mini port
Hey,
Could you send a picture with more sharpness, because i can't see it that well.
I already see that you have been soldering on top (close to your serial number).
Kind Regards
Bramatus
As long as you have got the correct connector then the way you do it is to remove the solder that is on the pads on the board and apply solder PASTE to the pins of the connector, then with a very COOL soldering iron gently touch the pins just long enough to flow the solder on.
The micro-USB connector on my HTC Desire is damaged. Charging is not a problem. However, trying to connect it to a computer causes shows flaky behavior. I took it into the vendor who are estimating a charge of $140 to fix it.
I can solder/desolder the connector quite easily as I have SMT facilities at work.
I would like to source the connector first however.
Anyone know the part number or where I can source one from?
Hi
try to sample one from eg Molex.com
I think you have to pay for the shipping oid
http://www.molex.com/molex/products...pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=usb_products
Good luck
Thanks.
Would be good to get a more definitive part. Dont want to desolder and realize I have the wrong part.
Has anyone seen the unsoldered PCB footprint for the device?
Is the connector a bottom or midmount?
Images taken from the HTC disassembly video (is on youtube)
But maybe there's just a cold solder joint and you don't have to replace the whole connector.
Thanks. Those pictures are neat. I took some of my own after opening up the back casing.
The damage is inside the connector (the cable wont stay connected). So not a dry solder joint problem.
I guess I could try and buy a few different connectors and try to see which fits.
Seems my USB port needs replacing, I first thought I may have had some lint or something inside there as it wouldn't charge but after checking with a flashlight one of the pins had bent completely.
The only thing I can find for the original desire is eBay ID 380759842289
Can anyone confirm if this is right, or where I could purchase one from the UK.
Are they hard to replace? Would it just be the case of removing the 2 lower t5 screws, taking the antenna out of way and then what? Are they soldered on or ribbon cable?
Cheers
I had a similar problem, my device couldn't connect via usb but it was able to charge, so my first thought was the same as yours (about the lint). I tried to clean it and I found something like a little wire which was out of its place.
I ordered a usb port (about 1.50 euros) for that model and I followed this guide on youtube to disassemble the device /watch?v=8sYB_AM_jHE
You have to dissolder the old one and then solder the new which is a little bit tricky. It Worked!
For the replacement parts you can search on ebay for htc desire g7 its the same or use google you will find a bunch of them.
Hi all, sorry for my bad english first, I broke my vivo tab rt so I tried to self repair with lcd+digi assembly, but I pinned 2 cables into lcd and boards but not working now(display just lights, but I cant see anything on screen, I think I plugged cable wrong. please help me!
p.s.: I have pulled boards for plug the lcd cables, is this ok?
well for a start in that second picture you can clearly see contacts on the board and casing which should be connected.
Anywho, those flexi ribbon cables are not designed for user interaction. They are placed at installation only, they are *very* delicate if not handled with care. Damage to those could easily cause your issue, or a poor insertion to the socket.
thanks to ur post
SixSixSevenSeven said:
well for a start in that second picture you can clearly see contacts on the board and casing which should be connected.
Anywho, those flexi ribbon cables are not designed for user interaction. They are placed at installation only, they are *very* delicate if not handled with care. Damage to those could easily cause your issue, or a poor insertion to the socket.
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okay then I need to check this, right? maybe this is not by poor insertion to the socket,I think I caused cable broke.I plugged cable powerfully.
thanks for help me
I thought I might be able to do the usb port replacement myself but after getting the part and desoldering the old one, I am pretty sure I am risking damaging the board if I try.
Seems like it needs a more skilled touch.
Anyone doing the repair cheaper than buying the daughterboard outright?
_ck_ said:
I thought I might be able to do the usb port replacement myself but after getting the part and desoldering the old one, I am pretty sure I am risking damaging the board if I try.
Seems like it needs a more skilled touch.
Anyone doing the repair cheaper than buying the daughterboard outright?
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I have, meaning it can be done, though I'm not sure what your question is. The port has five pins, which is much less aggravating compared to Samsung's. But you need the right equipment, i.e, decent soldering stations with the right tips (0.5, 0.8, 1.0 mm maximum) and temperatures, the right magnifying glass, adequate lighting, dexterity, and above all, patience.
I've found out that if you initially set out your goal to have a working tab again, then you'd have had the wrong mentality, because it would make you impatient. But if you go about it as if you're studying something unknown, you'd forget about time and therefore become patient without attempting to be so. Have fun.
Yeah I have everything but a professional soldering iron that can handle extremely fine tips, and the tips themselves.
I mean, I can do soldering but the pins on that usb port are crazy thin, I can only make out the pins and pads on the board clearly with the board holder magnifying glass and even that still makes them seem very close together.
I probably need a real Hakko iron and tips to get this done, that's a bit of an investment.
I assume the steps would be tin the pins, tin the pads, then solder the bracket of the usb port to the board, then heat the pins until the solder on the pins and the pads fuse. Sound about right?
Much easier said that done.
How the heck do they put 10 watts through one of those tiny pins.
I sent mine to an eBay seller. $31 including all shipping. Worked put perfect .
_ck_ said:
Yeah I have everything but a professional soldering iron that can handle extremely fine tips, and the tips themselves.
I mean, I can do soldering but the pins on that usb port are crazy thin, I can only make out the pins and pads on the board clearly with the board holder magnifying glass and even that still makes them seem very close together.
I probably need a real Hakko iron and tips to get this done, that's a bit of an investment.
I assume the steps would be tin the pins, tin the pads, then solder the bracket of the usb port to the board, then heat the pins until the solder on the pins and the pads fuse. Sound about right?
Much easier said that done.
How the heck do they put 10 watts through one of those tiny pins.
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Click to collapse
Hakko would be expensive. I bought an Aoyue station, which works fine. You want to smear that area of the board with rosin paste (just enough) to keep solder from bridging between pins. No need to spread solder onto the pins themselves. Some on the pads should do.
Yes, you solder the bracket first, but make sure the pins are aligned correctly with the pads (this must be done with a hi-power loupe or magnifyer (10x)). You set the temperature at around 375 (on mine anyway), then slide the tip from the end of the pad forward to melt the solder so it would envelop the pin. You don;t want to apply heat directly to the pins since if it's too much, it might melt the plastic housing of the port, or mollify and bend or break the pins themselves.
Then clean the rosin residue, and use a volt meter to check for continuity between one end of the USB cable and the end points of those pads on the board (not at the pins since you might have contact up to those points, but not further). Good luck.
graphdarnell said:
then slide the tip from the end of the pad forward to melt the solder so it would envelop the pin. You don;t want to apply heat directly to the pins
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What you are describing, not heating the pins, is a cold solder joint and will eventually snap since there is no real bond between the pad and the pin.
I find it dumbfounding to believe Asus made this design where 10 watts of power is going through one of those tiny pins with barely any surface contact (assuming the heavy bracket is used for the ground).
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321486121068&alt=web
Frack it, I destroyed a new $7 usb port trying to do this today with inadequate equipment.
This is getting too expensive. I'll debate sending it to someone else. Or getting a better tablet.
_ck_ said:
Frack it, I destroyed a new $7 usb port trying to do this today with inadequate equipment.
This is getting too expensive. I'll debate sending it to someone else. Or getting a better tablet.
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Hehe, sorry to hear. You win some... Whatever process you called cold solder joint, I had enough heat to the tip to melt the solder on the pad that flowed and covered the pin (inspected via loupe). So I don't think it would snap anytime soon. Other than that, the last pin to the left (looking at it from the port jack) is GND. And tiny as they may be, they sufficiently carry the current to charge. You should've seen the Samsung pins, which are unbelievably horrendous.