Develop Bugs

[DIY] Galaxy Note (or any Phone) Dock under $15

Hi All,
As Promised I am putting a little a guide here.
Any Suggestion, Question, curse words keep in Thread only.
This MOD is not hard anyway. So here we go.
Sometimes ago I posted THIS, Its a nice little Dock for about $7.
Only Down side is it dosent do MHL or USB OTG. The Reason is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together. But unfortunately there is no way just to use one extra wire and solder it a two ends.
So I boutht THIS, Its true Micro USB cable Extension for about $5.
** You can use this Guide to MOD any DOCK to make it work with your MHL or USB OTG cable.
All You have to do is, Open the Dock (There are 6 screws in the bottom of Dock) take the existing micro USB Male to Female extension out and replace it with the Motorola SKN6258.
I have used THIS dock for this tutorial. But you can MOD almost any Dock this way.
1. Unscrew the Dock from bottom. To do that you have to peel off the Rubber Pad stick to the bottom. Do it little Slowly so you can stick back the Rubber Pad.
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2. Take the 3 pieces apart and take off the Micro USB male to female part. Which is almost useless. And also remove the part shown in Circle.
3. Take the Bottom piece and using Knife cut the Groves as Shown for the Back Female Micro USB Connector.
4. Now Take the Motorola Micro USB Extension Cable and remove the Protective Plastic Ends.
To do this Cut along the line where two part are stick together. Please refer to the pics below.
And also remove the Black outer cover around the wires. You can do this later too but this gives more flexibility while working.
5.This is the ONLY HARD PART. Be very careful and remove the WHITE plastic part around Female USB connector PCB covering the wires soldered to PCB. Please be Very patient
while doing this. Use the sharper blade(The Sharper the Safer). Removing all the plastic really helps putting it in place with bottom of the Dock.
Also as shown in the pictures, trim the plastic Under and on Both Sides of Female Micro USB Connector so it fits perfect in the place.(See pictures)
Otherwise it will not align with bottom edge.
6. Be little Extra Careful. As you can see in Pic 1 our new Male Connector is thicker and little shorter compare to the original Connector came with Dock.
So Using pliers we are going to take the Metal Housing around the Male Micro USB. This will lessen the thickness of the end so we can slide it easily
into existing housing without further modifications.
7. Cut some rubber pads to keep things in place. Use the two tiny pieces as shown in picture to place it around Male Micro USB Connector.
8. We almost there. Now as show in pic below you have to make another cut to make space for Male connector to fit right. Also Cut a little piece of rubber pad
to put in that groove to give cushion as shown. Also remove the little T like plastic under the tiny female connector Cover,
9. Put Everything in place and Carefully close the dock. Put couple of screws and check to see everything works as it should.
10. In my case I had to open the Dock again and trim the Front Part of Female Micro USB connector. Because if you have MHL or Micro USB cable with short length Connector
it dosent stay connected in the Dock. And this way removing unnecessary plastic housing, you can connect the cables firmly. Refer to pics below for better understanding.
The Only Reason Stock Dock dosent work is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together.
And there is no way to use an extra wire because they are shortened right on the tiny PCB attached to both the Ends.
Enjoy your New MHL and USB OTG compatible Dock.

the guide is ready to go guys.

i bought this docks from the deal you posted. opened it and was thinking about how to make things work. so thank you so much for this guide.
how long dose it take to get motorola micro usb cable?

[DIY] Galaxy Note Dock under $15

Hi All,
As Promised I am putting a little a guide here.
Any Suggestion, Question, curse words keep in Thread only.
This MOD is not hard anyway. So here we go.
Sometimes ago I posted THIS, Its a nice little Dock for about $7.
Only Down side is it dosent do MHL or USB OTG. The Reason is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together. But unfortunately there is no way just to use one extra wire and solder it a two ends.
So I boutht THIS, Its true Micro USB cable Extension for about $5.
** You can use this Guide to MOD any DOCK to make it work with your MHL or USB OTG cable.
All You have to do is, Open the Dock (There are 6 screws in the bottom of Dock) take the existing micro USB Male to Female extension out and replace it with the Motorola SKN6258.
I have used THIS dock for this tutorial. But you can MOD almost any Dock this way.
1. Unscrew the Dock from bottom. To do that you have to peel off the Rubber Pad stick to the bottom. Do it little Slowly so you can stick back the Rubber Pad.
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2. Take the 3 pieces apart and take off the Micro USB male to female part. Which is almost useless. And also remove the part shown in Circle.
3. Take the Bottom piece and using Knife cut the Groves as Shown for the Back Female Micro USB Connector.
4. Now Take the Motorola Micro USB Extension Cable and remove the Protective Plastic Ends.
To do this Cut along the line where two part are stick together. Please refer to the pics below.
And also remove the Black outer cover around the wires. You can do this later too but this gives more flexibility while working.
5.This is the ONLY HARD PART. Be very careful and remove the WHITE plastic part around Female USB connector PCB covering the wires soldered to PCB. Please be Very patient
while doing this. Use the sharper blade(The Sharper the Safer). Removing all the plastic really helps putting it in place with bottom of the Dock.
Also as shown in the pictures, trim the plastic Under and on Both Sides of Female Micro USB Connector so it fits perfect in the place.(See pictures)
Otherwise it will not align with bottom edge.
6. Be little Extra Careful. As you can see in Pic 1 our new Male Connector is thicker and little shorter compare to the original Connector came with Dock.
So Using pliers we are going to take the Metal Housing around the Male Micro USB. This will lessen the thickness of the end so we can slide it easily
into existing housing without further modifications.
7. Cut some rubber pads to keep things in place. Use the two tiny pieces as shown in picture to place it around Male Micro USB Connector.
8. We almost there. Now as show in pic below you have to make another cut to make space for Male connector to fit right. Also Cut a little piece of rubber pad
to put in that groove to give cushion as shown. Also remove the little T like plastic under the tiny female connector Cover,
9. Put Everything in place and Carefully close the dock. Put couple of screws and check to see everything works as it should.
10. In my case I had to open the Dock again and trim the Front Part of Female Micro USB connector. Because if you have MHL or Micro USB cable with short length Connector
it dosent stay connected in the Dock. And this way removing unnecessary plastic housing, you can connect the cables firmly. Refer to pics below for better understanding.
The Only Reason Stock Dock dosent work is pin4 and pin5 are shorted together.
And there is no way to use an extra wire because they are shortened right on the tiny PCB attached to both the Ends.
Enjoy your New MHL and USB OTG compatible Dock.
ALSO PLEASE POST YOUR EXPERIENCE/ SUGGESTIONS OR JUT A BUMP !

the guide is ready to go guys.

with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?

brolee93 said:
with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that will change anything.

brolee93 said:
with this we can use hdmi cable and other perfectly with no lag no bug no deconnection ?
good work bro thanks for this guide . with your dock final it The outside appearance is intact?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It dose not change anything as far as the appearance of dock. However if you have noticed blinking LED on top behind the phone, that will not be there.
And as far as performance is concerned as long as you use Motorola SKN6258A cable, you should not have any problem at all.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Review of iBolt xProDock for Samsung w/lots of pics!!!

This is a review of iBolt xProDock car mount for Samsung Galaxy smart phones (Note 2, S3, S4): http://www.ibolt.co/ibxs-33603
After reviewing close to half a dozen of different car mounts, I thought I was done. They all typically have suction cup base and phone mount attached to it, with different variations of the mount/grip mechanism. Very straight forward stuff. I heard about iBolt, but never had a chance to review it in the past thinking it will be just another car mount variation. But with a number of people asking me about which car mount to use with Zerolemon extended battery, I started to research more about mounts capable to accommodate cases up to Defender size which also offer the best vibration-free support. Everything pointed to iBolt. What I didn't realize is that although priced at $39.95 which is higher than most of the car mounts - you get so many additional bonuses that it takes this car dock into a totally different category I would refer to as "smart car dock".
So lets start with suction cup base. This one is a standard piece with a new type of sticky-gel base that helps it being attached to textured area and some uneven surfaces. It's a new trend with a lot of premium car mounts, and I have demonstrated in pictures below it sticks upside down and sideways to textured surface without any problem. What I did like is an honest warning included with the instruction card about possibility of leaving an indent on soft leather or soft textured material dashboards. I have experienced that before with another brand, and wish I would have been informed ahead of time about it. The base has a standard universal ball joint mount so it's interchangeable.
Now to the mount itself. It a 3 contact point mount with two expendable rest feet at the bottom (will extend to a depth accommodating Zerolemon battery/case without a problem) and spring loaded latch in the middle at the top. I found the grip to be tight enough to hold the phone in landscape mode very sturdy, no wobbling or vibration. It is possible to use one hand to insert the phone by pushing it on the latch to expand it and sliding the phone in to rest on the support feet. To remove it, I had to use both hands. This 3-point support configuration with back plate not covering the entire back of the phone allows the camera to be open so you can use it as a dash cam. Also, due to universal joint connection, you can obviously rotate the mount 360 deg and tilt it to adjust to a better viewing angle. The quality of material didn't feel flimsy at all, and I hardly experienced any flex.
At this point I would be done with my review for a typical car dock, but iBolt provides you with a number of valuable surprises. First of all you get so called "charging arm" which is a flexible short piece of micro-usb male-to-female cable that secures in the back of the mount with cable wrapping around any side to be plugged into the phone. You can position it facing right or left, and with flexibility of the cable you can bend it at any angle. The cable is heavy duty, no need to worry about pumping 2A of current. Next you get 9ft (yeah, 9 feet!!!) of heavy duty charging/auxiliary cable to connect to your car charger and to extract audio output from HDMI interface. A lot of car stereos support bluetooth interface but for phone connection only. Audio output from the phone is not support. I learned it a hard way a week ago when my Sirius receiver unit (routed to car stereo) start acting up and I wasn't able to stream my audio from the phone. I had to use my little Anker bluetooth speaker connected to a phone which caused a conflict since it wanted to connect to both phone and audio while car head unit was fighting over phone connection. With this setup, I don't even have to power up bt speaker. Just use aux cable to connect to aux-in of the speaker and listen to streaming audio from my phone that way. This cable itself is high quality for sure. And if that wasn't enough, iBolt offers it's own custom dashboard app for driving. Very highly configurable app; I captured various setup screens for you to get an idea of it's flexibility. You can use it without iBolt dock, but with xPro dock as soon as you plug it in - you can have it start automatically and trigger certain evens like toggling BT or WiFi. I did have a small issue with my Note 2, when plugged in it was turning my display off requiring me to press Power button on the phone twice for it to come up. So, I need to investigate it further. I have seen on the Play market, iBolt guys constantly working on this app updates and resolving different compatibility issues.
Overall, this car dock turned out to be full of surprises. I found it to be a great value considering all the extra bonuses with included cables and capability to support Note 2 with large cases, including Zerolemon battery with it's TPU case (although spring loaded latch with it's rubber lining did put some marking on TPU case, but those were hardly noticeable and easy to wipe off). So for anybody who is on a road a lot and in need of a decent sturdy car mount with flexibility of audio output for streaming and included quality charging cable - iBolt xPro Dock deserves a serious consideration.
Here are the pictures.
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I would've bought this ages ago but ibolt seen to be intent on screwing over their UK customers. On amazon the samsung version isn't available on prime, it's almost £50 without it, seems a bit much for a car dock. I checked again today and was glad to see one samsung version on prime but it turns out that one doesn't include the aux cable, one of the reasons I want to buy the thing in the first place. They don't seem to be active on xda anymore either.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

What are you going to use the 9ft cable for?

nm8 said:
What are you going to use the 9ft cable for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flexibility of routing it in the car, snaking it around dashboard, windshield, center console, etc. It takes advantage of HDMI audio output so you can charge the phone and have audio output going to aux input of your stereo or external speaker. I know 9ft sounds like extreme, but it's better to have a longer cable rather then be short on a connection.

Ah ok... I just use bluetooth in my car and just normal cigarette type cahrger..

nm8 said:
Ah ok... I just use bluetooth in my car and just normal cigarette type cahrger..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Newer car stereos connect to both phone and audio through bluetooth, while older units (like with my '07 GS350) only connect to phone but not audio. For me bringing audio out from the phone is the only way to stream it to my car stereo.

Can you remove the flexible charging arm completely so there are no cables at all? I think you can since it looks like you have to remove the cable to reverse it.

irishrally said:
Can you remove the flexible charging arm completely so there are no cables at all? I think you can since it looks like you have to remove the cable to reverse it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I believe you can.
Although if you're going to do that you may as well save someone and buy a universal car dock IMO.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

D3_ said:
Yes, I believe you can.
Although if you're going to do that you may as well save someone and buy a universal car dock IMO.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it's easily removable.

The audio cable has some issues like buzzing noise when my phone is 100% charged

xxxnewman said:
The audio cable has some issues like buzzing noise when my phone is 100% charged
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get the same noise, it isn't the dock's fault (the dock just provides some wires, basically). The noise you hear is called a ground loop -- the power adapter in the lighter socket is grounded to the chassis, while the ground line of the aux audio goes from the phone, through the stereo, and then to the stereo's electrical ground. In theory both grounds are at the same potential, but in reality there are many small sources of resistance which cause a slight differential between them. Ground loop filters for stereos are available, but you'll have to pull out the head unit to attach it inline with the power connection. The simpler solution is a filter which goes inline on the audio cable, between the phone and stereo aux input. They can be picked up on eBay for about $10.

Review of 3.5mm replacement cable w/remote+mic for Samsung and HTC w/lots of pics!!!

This is a Review of 3.5mm male to male audio replacement cable with in-line remote/mic for Samsung and HTC phones. http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3373
When you are dealing with higher quality headphones, such as V-Moda, Beyerdynamic, AKG, Shure, Beats, SMS by 50, Sennheiser, and some others, these typically come with replaceable 3.5mm male to male cables. Audio cable is the weakest link of headphone construction that will break after awhile, and being able to replace it extends the lifetime of your cans. All of the mentioned above headphones comes with a variety of cables, including an option for the one with in-line remote and mic so you can control your smartphone and take calls. Typically that inline remote is labeled for iDevice use, but the multifunction button usually works with a lot of Android devices to play/pause/call, double/triple click to skip songs, and long press to activate Google Now. If volume control buttons are included with a remote, those are ONLY for iDevices. There is no easy way around it because iPhone and Android device controls are different.
I was on a mission to find replacement UE900 cables with in-line remote and volume buttons for my Galaxy Note 2, and noticed that lunashops.com also has 3.5mm male to male audio replacement cable which supposed to work with Samsung and HTC phones. So I decided to give it a shot. Didn't realize it's going to be a gold find! Although cable is flat and often these are flimsy, this one actually has a thicker shielding and feels more durable. 3.5mm connectors are gold plated and the plug itself is about 3-4mm bigger in diameter than a connector - it is small enough to fit with any phone case and any tight headphone opening. I even tried it with Beyerdynamic COP which has a sliding lock on their original headphone cable, and this one was small enough to fit in.
Since I have Galaxy Note 2, I only was able to test and to verify it with my phone. Multifunction button is located in the middle of the remote and it's a little more recessed than volume up/down buttons so its easier to locate it. Plus, its has a round shape in comparison to volume up/down having arrow shape positioned appropriately when plugged into your headset with up-arrow turning volume up and down-arrow turning volume down. All this is very useful because remote will be positioned closer to your head so it's mic picks up the voice better, and you will have to feel rather than see buttons to control your phone. Multi-function button worked perfectly to play/stop/call and double/triple click for transport control, as well as long press for Google Now. Calls were crystal clear on both sides. Volume control works perfectly too.
Overall, this is a MUST HAVE for anybody with Galaxy or HTC smartphones who want to be able to get full in-line remote with mic AND volume up/down controls. For $6 shipped its a bargain, and probably a good idea to get a few as spares or for your different headsets.
Here are the pictures.
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I've learnt that you shouldn't mention 'Beats' and 'high quality' in the same sentence. Head-Fi be scary.
This looks like a nice buy. I especially like the fact that it's a straight to straight cable, so it'll fit into my Note 2's aluminium bumper case. I'm not sure about those hard plastic black sleeves that are on the end of either plug though. I recognise them - they are commonly seen on very cheap knockoff Beats headphones that have a detachable cable. I've found that it makes the plug just too thick to plug in, but are removable. Removing them, though, reveals a rather ugly rubber plug casing.

affasn sand
I might have to pick this cable up. Looks really cool

@vectron : I'm searching high and low for a coiled cable with slim end plugs like these have, any thoughts? Reason: has to plug into a set of monster NPulse headphones and the input is tiny.
T0LTE CANADA • SLIM RC1 • AGNI PureCM • ROGERS

Maybe these will work? They look slim from a picture. Coiled cable are very rare and no longer as popular. I checked, and even lunashop doesn't carry it.
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=171231886184
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=350988313453
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=171230268796

Just reviving this thread.
Does anyone know if this cable works with Nexus 5?
EDIT: I tried with a pair of Galaxy S3 headphones, and they work, so these should work?
Thanks

--__-- said:
Just reviving this thread.
Does anyone know if this cable works with Nexus 5?
EDIT: I tried with a pair of Galaxy S3 headphones, and they work, so these should work?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It should be, this is android specific in-line remote. Multi-function button is universal, will even work with apple and every android device. The key here is volume control. Android control/wiring is different from apple, and this specific one works with android. Don't expect a sound quality improvement, it will be the same as a sound of your stock cable, but you will gain full android control

Thanks
The headphone a have only comes with a plug for iOS (like all headphones ) But i've been looking for a way to control audio with android.

Do the volume control buttons work while connected to the FiiO e18 while in DAC mode? That would be great! I heard that control buttons didn't work over usb audio on android earlier.

dirkdevries said:
Do the volume control buttons work while connected to the FiiO e18 while in DAC mode? That would be great! I heard that control buttons didn't work over usb audio on android earlier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, they don't work. E18 interrupts the control signal.

AWESOME
I have ben looking for such a cable for ages!
Quick question:
How is the in call quality of the microphone?

Sorry to dig up a dead thread, but I would love to know about the call quality too. Does anyone know? I would like to use them with Bose SoundLink headphones and a Nexus 6!

They're out of stock.
Is there any where else I can buy one?

ez2remember said:
They're out of stock.
Is there any where else I can buy one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably search on ebay, I'm sure there are plenty of similar cables

[DIY] High Current Micro USB Charging Cable From Cheap China Cable

WHY
I use Waze on my N5 every day during my commute to and from work. I find that the only micro USB cable I have that can still charge my N5 while running Waze is the OEM LG cable that came with it. I don't like the current state of affairs - where I'm reliant on just one cable with no backups.
WHAT
I've tried the regular 'Genuine' micro USB cables from China via Ebay that purport to handle Galaxy Note level charging, as well as 24/28 AWG cables that are supposed to handle increased currents. No joy.
NEED
- Pocket Knife
- Soldering iron + associated materials
- Electrical tape
HOW
I used a cheap, China, Ebay, micro USB cable that has a hard plastic casing around the connectors on either end of the cable; this makes it easier to pop the casing off, fiddle with the wires, and close everything up again.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/381034218782
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(1) You begin by using a pocket knife to pop open the casings around both the USB A male and micro USB male connectors. Do this by firmly putting pressure via the blade edge on the seam between the casing halves. Once the blade has sunk about .5mm into the seam you then wiggle it to widen the gap. It may help to increase pressure on the seam by hinging the metal connector against the plastic (as if it was plugged in and someone decided to sit on the plastic). You'll see this when successful.
(2) Next, you take your soldering iron and move the green wire over to join the black wire, and the white wire over to join the red wire; on both connectors.
(3) Add a bit of a jumper between the D+ and D- connections on the micro USB connector (where the White and Green wires used to be) You'll see this when done.
(4) Finally, put the plastic connector covers back on and cleanly wrap them with some electrical tape.

Seems easier to just buy a reputable cable at a modest price. Amazon basics has fine offerings. I'm able to run waze and Pandora while driving and still get a charge. Its mostly going to be contingent on the car charger, not the cable.

I tried just getting a proper cable - ended up with a bunch of cables that couldn't cut the mustard. Thus, I took the lemons I had and made lemonade. The cable I made is also independent of whether the charger shorts the D+ & D- pins together; which lets your phone know if it can pull full amps or not.

You can also make your cable with 25AWG

You can try to buy a pisen cable, you can read my review here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/goo...ro-usb-cable-improving-charging-time-t3068562
It s cheap and made of good materials... I sold 20 of them to my customers and everyone confirmed a great improvement over the original cables ( I m a computer technician) and the difference with the original one from nexus 5 is great

I made a similar cable once, out of 2 thick wires ( can´t remember the AWG size though but this wire was used for 230V connection so it had at least a diameter of 1+ mm ) and had similar results.
The lower resistance on this cable can actually help a lot but you need a power supply which can deliver a higher current too in order to benefit from it.
I see one benefit though, in comparison to a really cheap cable with thin wires and crimped contacts, the DIY one is more reliable ( though it looks horrible )

Just got my Charger Doctor USB volt/current meter today. Attached are pictures of the current going into my N5 via the OEM cable (1.16A), unmodified China cable (0.36A), and modified China cable (0.68A).
The mod is a definite improvement - but still not even close to what the stock cable can do. Looks like the wires in the China cable are seriously undersized.
My next step will have to be using two proper gauge wires as mentioned above by Gorgtech to finally achieve OEM cable throughput.

Here are some pictures of my DIY cable
Not very pretty but functional :angel:

Looks good to me! I think I'm going to source some speaker wire for my next one.
Gorgtech said:
Here are some pictures of my DIY cable
Not very pretty but functional :angel:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

zuberio said:
WHY
I use Waze on my N5 every day during my commute to and from work. I find that the only micro USB cable I have that can still charge my N5 while running Waze is the OEM LG cable that came with it. I don't like the current state of affairs - where I'm reliant on just one cable with no backups.
(3) Add a bit of a jumper between the D+ and D- connections on the micro USB connector (where the White and Green wires used to be) You'll see this when done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy that I found this thread and the other ideas in the replies though in just wondering, where you have the jumper how would this apply to the micro USB pinout with 1+2 on the top and 3+4+5 on the bottom, rather than all on the same plane.
As it turns out when I'd completed the USB A end and started on the other this was the case. Typical.
Thanks if any insight.
I'm currently using my power bank cable in the car which allows charging at a faster rate than discharge.
Thanks.

Tallika_Fan said:
I'm happy that I found this thread and the other ideas in the replies though in just wondering, where you have the jumper how would this apply to the micro USB pinout with 1+2 on the top and 3+4+5 on the bottom, rather than all on the same plane.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent and very valid question! Reference the attached picture.
1 - connect to red & white wires
2 - jumper to 3
4 - not connected
5 - connect to black & green wires

zuberio said:
Looks good to me! I think I'm going to source some speaker wire for my next one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use 12 gauge...

Just for the fun of it, I measured the spare cable I have
The diameter is about 1.3 mm which corresponds AWG 16 if I´m right :angel:
Ofc you can use a even stronger cable if you want but keep in mind that the limiting factor will be the pins of the USB connectors itself, also from a physical side of view ( you cannot fit the strongest cable inside the case of the connectors, not even if you modify them. )
I used hot glue to keep the pins in place after I soldered my cable and used shrinking hose after :good:
Basically every strong wire should work ( eg. speaker cable ), just use whatever piece of junk you have laying around :laugh:

zuberio said:
Excellent and very valid question! Reference the attached picture.
1 - connect to red & white wires
2 - jumper to 3
4 - not connected
5 - connect to black & green wires
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Click to collapse
Thanks very much for that, I shall give that a go over the weekend and report my findings.
Cheers.

I did it but my Nexus 5 is still not getting above 500 ma from a 1 amp charger.
I have another cable from old Nokia phone that gives me solid 1000ma.
That cable is hardly 8 inches. And is a usb cable not charging only cable.
I have notes that the wire strands in my usb cable are of aluminum.
What were yours?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

peachpuff said:
Use 12 gauge...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I built mine using 20 gauge power supply cables

Will it cost damage to the battery?

I recovered one soldering microusb connector pins 1 and 5 to 220V cables, and shorting 2 and 3 on the opposite side, with great effort considering the small tabs.
Well, I still couldn't get higher than 650mA, to my surprised disappointment.

would 12 gauge be to big to work with ?