US$200. I dropped it and it got a short in the keyboard cable, so I had to disable the menu/email/phone key because they triggered intermittently. After upgrading to WM2005, everything was ridiculously slow with any sound at all, and I'm tired of having it on vibrate only. The LCD is in perfect condition (I've had a heavy protector on it since day 1), and other than the short in the keyboard ribbon and the mark from the drop, the unit is in good shape. I dont feel like putting any more time into it. Use it for spare parts/LCD replacement, or spend some time replacing the ribbon.
Thanks,
Ezra
bitgazer at gmail
Related
My BA was droppped by my daugther yesterday into a bucket filled of water.
I immediately disambled it and use a hair blower to dry all the parts.
Aftre 1 hour of drying I assembled it back and it worked again (except ofcourse all the data was lost).
Just now the LCD does'nt lit, but I can still see the display. So I disassembled it again to reset the connectors inside but unfortunately it got worst. Now total no display.
I know the unit is still working because I hear the beep when it boots up (just without the display). The beep I hear is the same beep after a hard reset.
Is my LCD deffective? Is it worth to replace it? (Even my BA is more than 3 years in service) Or it is better to have a new one?
Need advise from the experts, thanks.
greate said:
I know the unit is still working because I hear the beep when it boots up (just without the display). The beep I hear is the same beep after a hard reset.
Is my LCD deffective? Is it worth to replace it? (Even my BA is more than 3 years in service) Or it is better to have a new one?
Need advise from the experts, thanks.
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Click to collapse
I feel jipped. Mine doesn't beep.
Now, I'm not what I would consider an expert, but my opinion is:
If you still want an angel, get a new/used one.
From my corner of the world, LCD's run about 2/3's of the price of used angels are going for on ebay.
If I was going to replace mine with another of the same, I'd buy a working SX66, pull the camera from the old one, and use the old one for parts.
Many, many thanks in advance if anyone responds to this. I was hoping that I could get some quick insight into the following:
I came home fairly inebriated after a party on Friday night and somehow left my phone in a sizable puddle of water on the counter all night. In the morning, I realized what a schmuck I am and took out the SIM & battery and kept the phone in a bag of rice for a couple days.
Now, everything works completely fine except for the UP volume rocker and the Power/Wake button. The former barely responds to anything, even hard pressure, and the Power button sporadically doesn't respond. As well, at first there was a problem charging the phone and getting my computer to acknowledge it when connected but that problem hasn't manifested itself today as of yet.
I ordered three parts to try and fix it myself - a volume flex ribbon replacement, power flex ribbon replacement, and a dock connector charging port. I wanted to ask if the more knowledgeable people around here think it's a terrible idea for someone like me, with no experience in mobile phone repair, to try my hand at this. I've been a techie my whole life and have always enjoyed taking equipment apart and putting it back together, but this is my first foray into phones.
Lastly, the other option is to take it to a shop here in Vancouver and shell out between $100-130 for these repairs (the parts of which came to a total of $9 after shipping). If anyone has any shop recommendations, that would be welcome as well.
Any thoughts?
Hi everyone,
I've had my Desire Z for little over 2 years now and two months ago (was running CM7.2 at the time) I started getting a weird issue where my touchscreen would only be responsive when the keyboard was slid out (so the opposite problem of what quite a few other people have reported where the touchscreen becomes unresponsive when the keyboard is out). The status LED would also stay off whenever the keyboard was closed, and the keyboard backlight didn't come on anymore at all. Also, I had to make sure that the keyboard was slid out during boot, if the phone booted without the keyboard out the screen would not become responsive at all until after another reboot. My earpiece speaker stopped working around the same time so I was wondering whether it was just an issue with the flex cable becoming a bit loose, but the touchscreen would consistently start working again when I flipped the keyboard out, and also the physical scroll button on the top bit would always work, so I was still hoping it would be some weird software issue.
I then upgraded to Flinny's (amazing) Andromadus ROM (build 22, complete data+dalvik wipe) after which the keyboard backlight started working again, but the rest remained pretty much the same. Since then the touchscreen issues have been getting worse, so that I sometimes have to flip the keyboard in and out again a few times, or turn the screen on or off with the power button several times before it becomes responsive again, but then it tends to work fine until I lock the screen again, with no noticeable dead spots anywhere on the screen. I've had days where it worked all day without problems (except having to flip out the keyboard, that's been a constant for the past two months), and then today I haven't been able to get the screen to do anything at all even after dozens of reboots.
I've already bought a new digitizer and am all ready to put it in (I'll have to replace the broken earpiece anyway), but was wondering whether anyone has any thoughts on whether it could still be a software issue after all, or if anyone has experienced anything similar? The thing with having to flip the keyboard out to get not only the touchscreen but also the status LED to work is just so weird and makes me doubt that it's a pure broken digitizer or lose flex cable issue, so I'm wondering whether it would be better to first try reverting to a stock ROM before taking on the messy sticky glue stuff (I should be fine but still, never done it before)?
Many thanks!
From what you describe my best guess would be the main flex cable is what needs to be replaced. Flash a touch based recovery and see if you have the issue there as well, if so its very unlikely that its anything but a hardware fault
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the heads-up, I've been playing around a bit more with software and I do manage to get the screen working again occasionally, typically after the second boot into a newly flashed ROM or restoring a backup, and only until one or two reboots later when it becomes completely unresponsive again. I've tried CM 7.2.0 as well as Flinny's Andromadus 10, and it is only complete flashing that does the trick, cache wipe or factory reset alone does nothing. The two occasions where the touchscreen worked were still limited to when the keyboard was flipped out, and it also had to be flipped out during boot, otherwise nothing would work. I've learned to navigate my way around the phone by just using the hardware navigation button, but I'll have a close look at the flex cable when I take it apart to replace the earpiece speaker tonight...
Hello,
so I took my dear phone apart yesterday to replace the broken earpiece - everything went fine but after reassembly the replacement earpiece isn't working either, which leads me to think that all those little broken bits might actually be related to some contacts being a bit lose, all in the same region. Should've thought about that earlier really since the earpiece and the LED (only works when keyboard flipped out) are both in that top region that the digitiser data presumable also has to run through before passing through the flex cable.
In any case, I also took a picture of the flex cable which is slightly bent but doesn't seem straightforwardly damaged (see attachment, that thing on the right is *not* a rip). Think it's worth trying to replace it anyway?
What was truly bizarre is that after the first boot following reassembly the touchscreen worked quite consistently for the entire evening - I thought I might've fixed a lose contact by un- and replugging the digitiser cable, but then the screen went nonreactive again at some point. I wonder if the working screen was again actually related to some software reset caused by the battery being taken out for so long? In the meantime the actual screen and trackball are still working away perfectly. Bizarre.
Just to let people know the solution to the mystery: the increasingly odd behaviour was actually caused by an initially small rip in the flex ribbon cable that got bigger and bigger - it's actually half-visible in the picture I uploaded above, only that the rip is where the cable comes out from underneath the case, and not where it's wrinkled!
Just in case it could be useful for anyone, here's the (top half of phone) components in the order in which they failed on me, which I guess corresponds to the order of the respective data lines in the ribbon cable (from the top of the phone towards the center):
environment brightness sensor (I thought that the sensor had been broken for almost a year, but as soon as I rebooted with the new flex cable I noticed how my phone stopped shining into my face at full brightness - if your brightness sensor gets stuck reporting the same (low) value this means your flex cable is on its way out!)
earpiece speaker
status led
touchscreen
screen (non-alignment with edge of screen, visual artefacts)
screen (fade to black/power interrupt)
obstacle3 said:
Just to let people know the solution to the mystery: the increasingly odd behaviour was actually caused by an initially small rip in the flex ribbon cable that got bigger and bigger - it's actually half-visible in the picture I uploaded above, only that the rip is where the cable comes out from underneath the case, and not where it's wrinkled!
Just in case it could be useful for anyone, here's the (top half of phone) components in the order in which they failed on me, which I guess corresponds to the order of the respective data lines in the ribbon cable (from the top of the phone towards the center):
environment brightness sensor (I thought that the sensor had been broken for almost a year, but as soon as I rebooted with the new flex cable I noticed how my phone stopped shining into my face at full brightness - if your brightness sensor gets stuck reporting the same (low) value this means your flex cable is on its way out!)
earpiece speaker
status led
touchscreen
screen (non-alignment with edge of screen, visual artefacts)
screen (fade to black/power interrupt)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll for sure keep that in mind. Mine is still going strong for the time being, but it's good to know some warning signs if I need to replace parts or if it's time to get a new phone
fireball0093 said:
I'll for sure keep that in mind. Mine is still going strong for the time being, but it's good to know some warning signs if I need to replace parts or if it's time to get a new phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacement parts all the way, the repair was 15$ and it feels as good as new! Well, it could do with a new battery but that's just another 5..
Just realised that the proximity sensor should actually be added to the very top of the list - just noticed that faint red light when taking a phone call, don't remember seeing that in almost a year :]
obstacle3 said:
Replacement parts all the way, the repair was 15$ and it feels as good as new! Well, it could do with a new battery but that's just another 5..
Just realised that the proximity sensor should actually be added to the very top of the list - just noticed that faint red light when taking a phone call, don't remember seeing that in almost a year :]
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Click to collapse
That's not a bad cost at all. I know I'm going to have to replace my keyboard in probably 2 months or so (maybe sooner) because some buttons are starting to not work. Other than that fact my phone is currently still going strong for being going on a 3 and a half year old phone
I have been looking around, but no place specifically answers this exact question.
Long story short I have a t-mobile Mainboard that I want to save from a phone with a broken screen that I have. From what I understand the other components work as well (camera, speaker and whatever else). I understand that I can purchase an LCD/digitizer with assembly and carefully place the components into there to make sure the phone works but it would cost me around $120 for the parts + whatever time it takes me to replace the components. My second option which I am asking to see if it is indeed possible, would be to take the mainboard from the T-999 and replace it with a SCH-I535/SPH-L710 that I would purchase (most likely with bad ESN - costing me the same amount) but it would mean that I would not have to deal with screen replacement and I have a higher likelihood of having a good quality screen. (I have never been happy with the quality of screen replacements from ebay). It makes no difference if it doesn't work, but someone with the experience of working with different models should be able to answer this question.
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Perseus71 said:
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
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Click to collapse
I am trying but T999 with bad IMEI's are not only more expensive but a lot of them also have broken screens so im back where I started. I am just stating these two because I can find them cheaply and easy to find as well.
In that case, you could try taking the Display & Digitizer from those phones and put it in your phone. Don't try to transplant your motherboard into that phone unless you have a good reason to do so.
It functions but you have to use a case and...
I did this a about a week ago. Here's how it went.
I bought a SPH-L710 without realizing it did not have a sim card slot. The screen had one slight crack and everything else worked.
After receiving it, I bought a T999 with a cracked screen/ non-working digitizer and everything else worked (the seller heard sounds when it powered on.)
I disassembled both and put the T999 mainboard on the L710 screen digitizer. Most of the screws line up. The two screws that don't line up are:
1. at the bottom near the TOP of the USB port. The hole in the board and the hole in the digitizer are on opposite sides of the USB port. This cannot be remedied, where the screw goes through the board, there's no hole on the digitizer, and you can't put a hole through the mainboard to meet up with the one on the digitizer. You could try but I think there's a circuit on the board there, or not enough room.
The two holes on the SIDES of the USB port will line up only when you squeeze thee mainboard and digitizer together while installing the screws.
2. on the side near the power button, there is a screw that goes there, but on the T999 mainboard near where the screw goes, there's something that looks like a button cell battery about 3mm wide and 1.5-2mm tall. It stuck in a hole made for it in the T999 digitizer, but the L710 digitizer does not have a recess in it to fit this button cell so the T999 mainboard sticks up slightly, enough that if you put the screw in the hole in the side, then the power switch on the mainboard will not stick down far enough, and when you push the power button on the outside of the case, it won't engage the power switch on the mainboard. To remedy this, leave out the screw on the side of the mainboard.
Because the mainboard is slightly bent due to the button cell battery, you need to have a case that compresses the phone together so the power button will engage the power switch properly. I used a "waterproof" chinese knockoff case I got on e$ay for $13. It's not waterproof, but the phone didn't get ruined even thought I tested the waterproof-ness of the case before I put the phone in and it passed, so maybe a genuine otterbox case would have been better. But the case does OK to compress everything enough that the power button and power switch work all the time. With the case on, you can't tell the phone is missing screws internally.
Verdict: everything works properly except the camera doesn't focus properly, it only works in Macro focus, I don't know if I should take the camera module from the L710 and try it or if it won't move because of the stress of the mainboard being slightly bent all time due to the button cell battery. It did focus properly for the few few days I had it.
One other issue: I can't get Windows 7 to recognize it, so I can't use Odin to root it, I've tried all the drivers, I've tried all the modes. I have no idea if this is a Windows issue or if it is somehow caused by the Frankenstein's Monster-ness of the hardware.
So yes, it can be done, with a "rugged" style case and with a few issues. I have no experience with the I535 at all.
I hope this helps,
rollinns
I could not have asked for a better reply. Thanks so much!!!!
Glad I could help
I was looking for this info about 3 weeks ago and didn't really look that hard since i was pretty sure everyone would give me the same replies you got before I replied. But for my entire life I've been asking questions no one else has asked, so I'm used to just having to do stuff to get answers. In this case, it helped you too.
If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try the whole process w/o the L710 parts. Maybe the I535 will work, and I still could drill a recess into the L710 digitizer if I had a mill, but I don't have access to mine now and won't for a while, and I'm not sure I trust the drill press to not crack the digitizer.
Also - NFC is less reliable than it was with my S2, meaning it doesn't work all the time - it's harder to beam contact info to another phone, but QI wireless charging works flawlessly.
My hope is to put some NFC tags in the truck along with a wireless charger so I can listen to internet radio as I drive, i.e. - a tag to turn off wifi, turn on bluetooth, turn on the app that streams music to my JVC car stereo and turn on the "TuneIn" app. and then I can still charge my phone without worrying about wires.
The screen didn't break but after it fell it did look like the bottom left hand corner was visible darker than the rest of the screen. Today, almost a week after the initial tumble I decide to see if restarting it would fix the problem and it did but it lead to bigger problems. Now if the screen turns off for any reason it stays off until I do a hard reset by holding the power button for 10 seconds. When I try and turn it back on the captive buttons light up but nothing else happens. When the screen is on after a hard reset I'm unable to adjust the brightness level when I pull down the top.
How likely is it that the LCD ribbon came loose? It seemed like there were issues with it before.
I'm at a complete loss for what could be wrong with it. Any advice for recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I'm really hoping I don't need any major repairs or even a new tablet because I can't afford much of anything.
My grandson recently had a tantrum and threw down my tablet. Afterwards the screen was flickering so I decided to restart it to see if that would fix it. The screen never came back on although I could hear it start up sounds and the capacitive buttons would light up. To make the story short, i contacted Samsung and they said it would be a standard $200 repair fee unless they found a loose cable. Today my credit card was charged $59 dollars by Samsung. I guess it was just the loose cable. Note that they sent me a prepaid UPS label to send it back to them and they are shipping it back to me all within that $59 charge. Well worth it for a great tablet.
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
You got to remove the back and disconnect the lcd and battery cables and reconnect them after 10 seconds and all should be good. This happened to me after I got the screen of death. I dropped it and the screen did it again. So I just disconnected them both, reconnected, and everything works fine.
bh87771 said:
You got to remove the back and disconnect the lcd and battery cables and reconnect them after 10 seconds and all should be good. This happened to me after I got the screen of death. I dropped it and the screen did it again. So I just disconnected them both, reconnected, and everything works fine.
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Click to collapse
Can you recommend any guides & kits that I can purchase from amazon to help me take the tablet a part?
YouTube it. It is real easy removing the back, patience is needed.
Yes go to youtube for the disassembly videos. I bought a generic repair kit from ifixit for the tools. Though guitar picks can also work well.
Basically when you drop it a cable gets loose. You just have to disconnect and reconnect it.
Mine was very clearly only half connected (not in the picture which is from when I replaced the battery). I also disconnected and reconnected the battery and lcd connectors to make sure. But the loose cable was on the top left and didn't seem to be one of those. Just reseat them all to be sure.
There is another thread on here about disassembly which has pictures that I used as reference.
I've had mine apart twice. Once when I dropped it and once when I replaced the battery for poor battery performance (this really was sooo worth it).
I just received a used Note today and was about to initiate a return because the screen was completely dark but the rest of the tablet seemed to be working, including touch. Removed the back, reseated the ribbon cable, and everything's good now.
Strange start to my experience with this tablet.