Related
I have an on-going project of creating a battery extender for my xda and I want to share it.
This is composed of 8 rechargable NiCAD or NiMh battery connected in series to produce a 9.6 v. The 9.6 v will be regulated by a 5v regulator (LM7805) then it will be connected in the XDA power dongle.
With this project, the battery life can be x4 or more depending on the batteries used.
I'm currently (no pun intended) trialling a Mugen 4500mAh battery which looks likely to give me >16 hours continual use ob my XdaII. Probably much more expensive than your solution but perhaps more convenient being 'built-in'.
Good idea though, I could have done with your solution two years ago!
Update on my project
I already assemble it and have try it already and here is the update.
The good news is the battery is charging.
The fall back is that the regulator that I have used is emitting too much heat.
I also have done some bench test and here are the data for those who are interested.
1. XDA IIs is drainning about .700 Amperes when charging supplied by 5v
2. XDA IIs will not charge with 4.8 V or below
-I got this data using a adjustable power supply with an Ampere meter
Project Fall down
For the fall down, I think it is because of two reason:
1. It is because the total Voltage supplied by the batteries is 9.6V and the out put regulation is 5V, therefore the 4.6V is being converted to heat.
- I should have use 6 battery insted of 8 to 7.2v instead of 9.6.
2. Since 5v is the out put of the regulator and it is charging the battery with a 4.8v (for i.e.) this will mean that the .2v drop will be in the line between the charger and battry which also mean the current is the max output of the regulator (Applying OHMs Law I=V/R, and R being 0 will result to infinity in theory and maximum in reality)
____________
| |
V1=5V V2=4.8V
|___________|
-I think I should have put a resistor to control the current or I should have designed a regulated current supply instead of a regulated voltage supply
For the #2 reason i'm not still sure about this because, this can only be true if the XDAIIs or it's battery does not have a built in charging circuit.
I have read some articles on mugen battery that it has a overload protection circuit my guess is that XDA also have it my I dont have any information yet. Incase XDAIIS or the battery alreadhave a charging circuit I only need to resolve my #1 Fall down.
I think I need to do more research, but if anybody could provide me information it will be highly appreciated. XDAIIs service manual maybe a greate help.
resolved
My project is now working, the over heating was resolved by putting a heat sink on the IC regulator and reducing the numbers of AA battery to 6 pcs (6 x 1.2 =7.2).
I'm still not sure where the over charging protection circuit is installed (XDA unit, battery or in the power supply/Craddle) incase it is not with the xda or the battery then I need to be carefull not to overcharge my battery with my project but if it is in it then my project is now perfect.
Any body knows where the over charging protection circuit is please help.
Re: resolved
there is a russian link for the same project - http://forum.pocketz.ru/index.php?showtopic=11339&hl=battery extender&st=100
Adapter:
http://wince.box.ru/russian/caradapter.htm
typically you can take any car adapter, give 12v to its input and take 5v from output for charging your PocketPC battery. Most car adapters would give 5V output if input is between 8...12V
hi kabayan,
i think the over current protection is in the device.
i converted an external battery charger (using 4x AA battery) intended for blue angel to my himalaya. there's nothing inside it except for a 10K resistor in series with the output.
i also noticed that even with the correct regulated voltage applied, my hima won't charge without a current limiting resistor, so its definitely an over current protection in the device!
congrats in your project!
Schematic Diagram
Anybody has a schematic diagram of XDA? Please share
If you have the money might as well buy additional battery so no need for you to go thru all thoses stuffs. My project had work for me actually it is easy just basic ohms law. The challenge I have encountered in the project was the heating up of the regulator but it was resolved. by the way the reason I made a battery extender is because that time extra battery is not easy to find and I dont have a budget for it so I just salvage some electronic parts from my previous projects. But now I already bought an extra battery- a lot convience than before
Hi guys,
I do a lot of hiking and walking, taking my trusty Touch Cruise/ Orbit2 with me, running GPS and phone. I use the GPS to run EveryTrail - which allows you to track and record your position to upload your route and pics to the site later.
Of course, with all this lot running all day... well, lets just say the batteries dont!
Come to use the phone at your desitination, and voila! you've got a dead battery....
I'm not interested in those "2300 mah" extended batteries, I want something that's going to last DAYS (under these conditions) and I dont mind if I have to have it on a belt or something.
My idea is this:
Build a case to hold whatever and however many rechargeable batteries to give maximum power - within reason (say 48 hours).
This would then go on a belt, with a fixed power cable going to the mini-usb charge port on the Touch Cruise.
In theory, it might be good if it was possible to "daisy chain" multiples of these battery packs to increase the capacity still further....
So, my questions would be:
1. What are the pin connections for power on the mini-usb interface for the Touch Cruise?
2. Can someone recommend a low-unit supplier? (i.e 5 mini usb connectors)
2. What type / spec batteries would I need?
3. What does anyone else think of the idea?
My dad's helping me to look at this - who knows a lot more about electronics than me!
Thanks in advance - I think this would be useful for other people with the same goals...
i think that it is a good idea except one thing i would be worried that i would break the mini usb connector on the bottom of the phone.
OK, this is a good idea, but the weak link is the mini USB connecter (guess how I know...) I think the best solution would be a sleeve that clips around the phone so that the mechanical stress is not borne by the USB connector.
You can get the mini USB connector from Maplin:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43998
Batteries should probably be NiMH as they have good capacity. Charging is going to be an issue, as you don't really want to have to charge 10 separate AA batteries...
Good idea though, I can only get about half a day out of my Kaiser under those conditions.
Hey, was thinking exactly about the same ;-)
My idea was to use:
1. A 5VDC switching regulator, so battery voltage doesen't matter and for example a 10V battery pack with 2000mAh will last as long as a 5V 4000mAh-battery
2. A complete Li-Ion battery pack with charger from an old camcorder,notebook,accu-driller, or whatever...
Good luck!
Hi there ,
I suggest you to buy 2 external battery pack of maybe 4000 to 5000 mah type suitable for your pda or your device , size like a normal cigarette pack , connection via mini usb cable or similiar , put these into your pouch and use it for your outdoor activities , it is easier than diy making all sorts of modification on wiring and so on . You can get these ext. battery pack with the right voltage and amps or omnhs - whatever from ebay and your local handphones and computer malls or outlets in most major towns in any country . Making a belt or an armband or a shoulder band or any sorts of diy is innovative but will take a lot of time , unless you are the type that likes to be really different or unique from others , then dont give up in making your special dream battery pack , cheers and best regards - jimmunsw
I have a setup like what you want, A 12v 12Amp SLA Battery with a 12v accessory plug that clips on that I just put my car charger in. To ad to this for my larger devices I have a 12v 46amp array in my car for my lappy, both supplemented by Solar panels.
Works well but there is a lot of weight.
Portable Power Supply
I've been interested in a similar setup for extended battery life. I've been increasingly interested in using Li-Po 18650 cells from dead laptop batteries. http://hackaday.com/2011/09/19/things-to-do-with-your-laptop-batteries-when-theyre-dead/ achieving 12v and using a cigarette car adapter to step the power back down to a constant 5.5v 2a It would be cool to finally test this out. dead battery packs from laptops are found many places so the parts could be fairly cheap.
Keep us posted on your DIY!
I've been looking into an external battery pack for my phone as a backup, partly because the phones I am considering buying in the very near future don't have replaceable batteries, and partly because a replaceable or even extended battery doesn't really guarantee I can get through a day.
My biggest fear and reason for wanting this battery is if I have little to no charge in the evening/night and can't manage to get a decent amount charged. Having a battery backup would make me feel more secure knowing I have something to keep my phone going even if I somehow end up away from a charger for an extended period of time, however irrational such a situation may be.
As such, I have been looking and found there are 3 different types of battery packs.
1) Built in Lithium ion (most common)
2) Replaceable lithium ion (ibattz mojo is the only example I can find)
3) AA based charger.
Now charger type 1 seems to be common, but overall the battery will lose charging capacity over time, not be replaceable, and will need to be tossed.
Type 2 and 3, the battery can be easily replaced, especially on the cheap. However type 2 can be smaller and slimmer, while type 3 has the benefit of using LSD NiMH batteries. For those who don't know. LSD is Low Self-Discharge in this case. A lithium ion battery dies every week or two just sitting there, LSD NiMH batteries can hold up to 75 or 85% of their charge even after a year of just sitting there.
Overall type 3 seems the most ideal. However there is another element. Some chargers have cables built in, while others have just a standard usb plug. At first I thought the USB plug was annoying and a built in cable made more sense. However after some thought, I realized the built in cables added too much bulk, and I found keychain cables, which make more sense. My favorite example of this, is the mojo treble keychain, which seems to do everything and then some.
So basically now I am looking for the best AA based charger that doesn't have any usb cable built in, just a simple full usb plug. The closest I can find is by energizer, but it has the plug built in on a super short cable that looks as if it would put undue stress on my phone if I used it.
However if anyone has any other suggestions, or reasons to recommend something else, I'd greatly appreciate any input. At this time I just want to find the most versatile option. I would also love to hear other reasons for why people went with options other than AA rechargeables for their battery packs.
dkkeo said:
Extend battery:
(1) first of all to see the instruction for use,
(2) choosing a charging performance good charger. Charging time, keep the battery clean, dry. Helpful hints: use a mobile phone to send a text message, playing games is the power consumption
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any reccommended battery pack for LG nitro???
I use Belkin External Battery pack, reliable,
my other mates bought cheaper made in china battery pack but after a month or so, they are already in the bin, the battery is damaged.
Charger considerations
Hi,
I need advise for the following:
Charger A (Li-polymer battery) output : 5V, 1A
Charger B (Li-polymer battery) output : 5V, 500mA
Device input: 5V, 750mAH (Li-ion / Li-polymer)
When using Charger A, some people comment that it will limit the current of 750mAH for the device and the device's battery should be fine since both the charger and device are at 5V. However, some people comment that this will shorten the battery life of the device since it will perform a 'quick charge' using 1A.
When using Charger B, some people comment that the device will draw more current than it can deliver and causes it to heat up and reduces the charger's life. However, some people comment that Charger B will extend the battery life of the device since it performs a 'slow charge'.
I also read that USB pins on the charger denotes if the charger is a PC or a dedicated charger. If it is a PC, the device will limit the drawing current. If it is a dedicated charger, the device will draw more current to charge itself.
I am confused as to who is right and which charger should i be using.
Can someone enlighten me ?
Thank you very much.
JefferyTeo said:
I use Belkin External Battery pack, reliable,
my other mates bought cheaper made in china battery pack but after a month or so, they are already in the bin, the battery is damaged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
80%-90% external battery packs are made in China at present. Some of the brands make good batteries as well.
tsgan272 said:
80%-90% external battery packs are made in China at present. Some of the brands make good batteries as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes most external battery packs are made in china ,so i prefer to buy them from china supplier online ,
with better price and more convenient .belowed is the websites i often bought from ,which is better .
http://www.kingsbuying.com/consumer-electronics/power-banks.html
http://www.dx.com/s/power+bank
http://www.banggood.com/buy/Power-bank.html
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Good question....hope someone has the answer for you.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
executionist said:
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Gkikas said:
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one plugs their phone directly to the wall socket :/ Thats what the charger is for, it only gives 5v to the phone. Just need to know if it can regulate that 6v to a safe level.
*edit. I think no one here would know about the hardware aspects of a phone. Can someone point me to a forum or anywhere where they may know the answer to a question like this?
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
TieNN89 said:
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
executionist said:
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah yeah
My brain has already flicked off for the day LOL
if you use IRC, try the freenode server in the ##electronics channel. they should help you out there. pretty nice ppl in general there.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
?
I'm interested as well. Will 6 volts @ 500mAh fry the phone?
Ok, I am an electronic engineer so a few comments.
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones, could probably look it up but ..... in my opinion only 10% above 5V is to be considered safe.
Now you are talking about a 6V battery. That battery is not always 6V. A nice example is the 12V battery in your car which is 12.8V when fully charged. Another example are the cells inside our phones which have a nominal Voltage of 3.7V but are charged to 4.2V.
The Voltage they put on those things is the nominal Voltage.
I would check if there is no electronic circuit in that lamp since I would not connect anything directly to a battery at all.
If you go camping I would check this thing coolook pb-2000. Insert 4 x 18650 batts and you can do a couple of recharges. Very good box for the price and you can salvage 18650 from broken laptop batt packs ... but google and youtube a bit before you do that to make sure you do it the right way.
I'm also interested, any news?
You can see the specs of this type of batteries here. The 6V is nominal, as already mentioned above. The maximum noted is 6.9V and TBH, i would be rather reluctant to test is my SGS3 charging circuit likes the idea of being fed with 40% higher voltage than usual.
Are you sure there is nothing in the lantern that would limit the voltage under load? Could be something as simple as 2 diodes in series, in this case measuring the voltage on the open circuit, totally unloaded, with a DMM that barely draws microamps from it, would show the battery voltage. Try drawing some current from it (use a resistor, a USB LED lamp, etc) while measuring. I seriously doubt a self-respecting vendor would setup a USB port on that thing that would potentially output 40% more than specs, really.
PS: if the port is, indeed, fed straight from that battery, i would rather avoid hooking my SGS3 to it. Even though, it would probably survive.
---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
lukesan said:
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MAX77686. Good luck finding the datasheet. And good luck trying to guess if there is anything else potentially fed straight from the USB connector. The bottom line is - i wouldn't dare
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
GR0S said:
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
lukesan said:
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about how practical it would be to be cutting usb cables and wiring zener diodes just to use this lamp....
I think I had a charger that supplied too much voltage (I'm not positive I didn't measure the voltage output or anything), but I can say that the phone did not like it. It would eventually charge somewhat, but the touch screen wouldn't work and would go bezerk if touched lol.
Again I'm not sure how much V it supplied, but I would assume it was more than 6V. It didn't really damage the phones either, I would try it.
Here's your answer, definitively:
6v at the source (the lantern in this case) will probably be 5v or less at the phone because of the resistance in the USB cable itself. The longer the cable is the higher the resistance will be and thus the more voltage you lose to it. Also, the cheaper the cable (the thinner the wires) the more voltage you will lose per foot.
Here's some specs you can plug into THIS VOLTAGE CALCULATOR:
The USB definition specifies up to 5.3v.
Most USB cables will use 30awg wire or maybe 28awg for the better ones.
Depending on which of the sources I've read, some USB cables/chargers use one pair of wires for charging, and some will use two pairs. You can see that using two pairs of conductors drastically improves the voltage transmission but even still, at 28awg over a 6foot cable you're still losing .75v which puts you at 5.25v and well within the USB spec.
So the lantern is fine to use with your phone with your average 6-foot USB cord.
If you're like me and prefer 10-15 foot USB cords in some places you would actually benefit from a 6v or even 7v power supply at the wall. I've found that even on the OEM Samsung wall charger, when I use a 10-foot cable I don't get enough juice to actually charge my S4. With the screen on the battery charge level still drops. The Galaxy Charge Rate app shows something like 500ma charge rate and that's because there's not enough voltage / too much voltage-drop across the long cable. (Radio Shack sells a modular, adjustable voltage wall-wart power supply as well as USB and micro-USB adapters for it. I'm starting to experiment with it and the long cables.)
USB voltage vs charging current
This is an old thread, but I can confirm that my moto G charges at 6v. Apparently the original Motorola charger outputs 5.75v. I hooked up a variable power supply to my phone. The data lines are shorted together to indicate a high current power source is present. The moto G will test load the power supply before settling on a stable charging current. One that does not cause the voltage to sag excessively. When I applied 5v the charging current was approximately 600 mA. At 6v the charging current was approx 1200 mA. The charging current was measured directly on the phone using an app called ampere.
So I conclude that Motorola use this tactic to ensure their phones charge fastest with their chargers. On the up side, its fun watching my phone go from 40% to 100% in 45 minutes
So I'm in my junior year of electrical engineering and seeing the incredible things done with smartphones is something I really would like to be a part of one day. I wanted to discuss, considering the limits of current technology, if it would be possible to create a safe Dash Charging power bank for this device? For those who don't know how dash charging works I'll post a few links and my understanding of how it works and if I'm wrong at any point feel free to correct me.
Dash Charging - The Technology
The way dash charging works, as I understand it, is that the USB-C cable wires are made wider in diameter to accommodate a larger amount of current being passed through to the battery. The charger plugged into the wall takes on the burden of the extra voltage pushing the current through the wire and keeping it away from the phone's internal battery (which is brilliant). That means that the charger takes on the extra heat which isn't a problem because passive components are often more tolerant of heat than batteries are.
Links:
http://www.phonearena.com/news/How-it-works-Dash-Charge-fast-charging-on-the-OnePlus-3_id82646
http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/what-is-dash-charge-oneplus-3
The Issues
A dash power bank could be charged up exactly like the phone; with the dash charger it could fill extremely fast. However, using the battery pack to charge the phone means that the internal Li-Ion batteries of that charger will be taking on the extra heat from within the case which could:
a) shorten the power bank's life span
b) Possibly lead to unsafe power banks if it got too hot
I also see there being limitations with the power bank's ability to maintain a full speed charge similar to wall charging along with what types of batteries would be needed to provide the power output similar to the dash charger.
The Solutions
So in my limited knowledge I think that the biggest enemy here is heat generated in the power bank. I feel like the rest could be overcome with a fairly large bank of 18650 batteries. It is possible to have a passive cooling system built into the power bank for heat dissipation but that might make the battery bank difficult for users to hold on their Pokemon Go outings. Also, reducing Dash Charging specifications just a little, decreasing the speed at which it could charge the device, would alleviate some of the concern. So while you might not get 60% in 30 minutes from the wall, perhaps aiming for 45-50% charge in that amount of time would increase the power bank lifespan and total amount of charges.
What do you all think? I'll readily admit I don't understand completely how current battery bank internals work to limit over-current and over-voltage scenarios as I've never taken one apart. If anyone wants to educate me and say whether they think Dash Charging is possible I'd love to hear about it. This is the kind of stuff I imagine the OnePlus engineers are sitting around working on every week.
i think that would be too expensive to make for consumers, u figure if a dash charge block is almost $30.00 this thing would be well over $500.00 which would be too much for a regular consumer to purchase just to have a portable charger, maybe in about the 3rd or 4th generation of this technology we could see one in about 5 years, they would rather make a ton of 30.00 purchases and have you buy their charge block opposed to very little purchases of about 500.00 for power bank
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
otonieru said:
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had no idea that even existed. I'm going to look into the specs of that device and see what it has under the hood. Thanks for letting me know about it!
AlkaliV2 said:
I had no idea that even existed. I'm going to look into the specs of that device and see what it has under the hood. Thanks for letting me know about it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here,
the information page from the maker itself :
http://www.oppo.com/en/accessory-vooc-power-bank
and where to get it :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/OPPO-VOOC-Flash-Charge-Power-White/dp/B00SINEEXA
I'm going to build power bank using Dash Charge car charger. The power banks higher voltage (12V if using car charger) means less current for individual cell while charging. I have bought battery holder case 10 x 1,5V for AA batteries. http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ (I already have plenty of Eneloop AA batteries for other accessories.) Each Eneloop has at least 1,5Ah (1500mAh) capacity while retaining voltage at or over 1,2V. http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php I'm going to attach 12V socket to the battery holder case so I can use my car charger both in car as well while at camping.
Battery bank consisting of 10 x AA Eneloop has a total capacity of: 12V*1,5Ah=18Wh.
Dash chargers input is rated at 12V/2.5A so each individual Eneloop would have about 250mAh discharge rate.
My old Galaxy Note 3 had 3,8V 3200mAh battery and the capasity was ~12,2Wh. I don't know the nominal voltage of OP's battery but I would estimate it's about the same as Samsung's so the capacity should be lower than in Note 3. Maybe around: 3,8V*3000mAh=11,4Wh.
10x Eneloop batteries has a capacity to give energy for charging OP3 from 0% TO 100% at least. (18Wh/11,4Wh = ~1,6)
I think in India it's not available
Sent From My One Plus 3
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/new-product-survey-dash-charge-power-bank.457920/
Squabl said:
I'm going to build power bank using Dash Charge car charger. The power banks higher voltage (12V if using car charger) means less current for individual cell while charging. I have bought battery holder case 10 x 1,5V for AA batteries. http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ (I already have plenty of Eneloop AA batteries for other accessories.) Each Eneloop has at least 1,5Ah (1500mAh) capacity while retaining voltage at or over 1,2V. http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php I'm going to attach 12V socket to the battery holder case so I can use my car charger both in car as well while at camping.
Battery bank consisting of 10 x AA Eneloop has a total capacity of: 12V*1,5Ah=18Wh.
Dash chargers input is rated at 12V/2.5A so each individual Eneloop would have about 250mAh discharge rate.
My old Galaxy Note 3 had 3,8V 3200mAh battery and the capasity was ~12,2Wh. I don't know the nominal voltage of OP's battery but I would estimate it's about the same as Samsung's so the capacity should be lower than in Note 3. Maybe around: 3,8V*3000mAh=11,4Wh.
10x Eneloop batteries has a capacity to give energy for charging OP3 from 0% TO 100% at least. (18Wh/11,4Wh = ~1,6)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're going to need a hardware XDA for people like you. I never would have thought to string together Eneloops to make an external charger since most of your power banks contain 18650 with overcharge protection and stuff built in. The wall dash charger is spec'ed to run 5V at 4A and the car charger loses half an amp to land in at 3.5A max. Car charger voltage varies between 3.4~5V from what I can tell probably based on the car's cigarette lighter specs.
What kind of case are you using with the eneloops and what are you using for overcurrent/voltage protection?
otonieru said:
It's actually already there in the market,
named "OPPO VOOC Powerbank"
attached is mine, working fine with OP3 Dash,
Price is around $45-50 - 6000mAH
Charging rate is 3,5A
and it DOES charge my device up to 60-70% in 30 Minutes
it heat up though, especially near the plug (USB C end)
this is why i use the metal based USB C adapter, so it release the heat faster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So... can you tell me if a normal VOOC charger block charge the OP3 as fast as the original dash charger in package?
I saw it is the same current rate, but the technology, is it interchangeable?
Just wait oneplus is planning to release a dash charge powerbank with 10000mAh so stay connected no need to buy oppo 6kmAh one
AlkaliV2 said:
The wall dash charger is spec'ed to run 5V at 4A and the car charger loses half an amp to land in at 3.5A max. Car charger voltage varies between 3.4~5V from what I can tell probably based on the car's cigarette lighter specs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right, the car charger uses lower current and is probably a bit slower. When I receive my car charger I will do some testing and will report back.
The voltage variation is needed on all chargers. When the battery is almost full the charging voltage drops.
AlkaliV2 said:
What kind of case are you using with the eneloops and what are you using for overcurrent/voltage protection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have ordered a case like this: http://r.ebay.com/vpShFJ
The car charger has been designed to be used as it is. The charger itself does not require additional overcurrent protection but in case of a short circuit a 5A fuse is needed to protect the wiring and Eneloops. Overvoltage is not a problem as the maximum voltage with Eneloops is going to be under 15V.
DouglasDuZZ said:
So... can you tell me if a normal VOOC charger block charge the OP3 as fast as the original dash charger in package?
I saw it is the same current rate, but the technology, is it interchangeable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is. I've posted it in another thread as eell. Just check through my post history.
This is pure logical, since Oneplus is just a subsidiary company of OPPO, so they surely can share few technologies between each other, and VOOC/DASH is one of it,
Just make sure your usb c adapter quality is good when you decide to use it with VOOC charger.