Edit--I'm sorry to report that after further testing the below is no longer working for me. It's strange that initially the audio glitch disappeared but I probably shouldn't have posted in haste. So following this I decided to try taping both pin 13s on both sides of the hdmi cable. I tried it again on my test tv and roku box first and this time it might be worth noting that a new message appeared on the tv saying "unsupported mode". This gave me some optimism to try it on aftv with both sides taped but i still have the same glitch when i power off my tv while leaving aftv on. If anyone has any insights, I'm listening. BTW--I didn't just come up with this concept. It does fix certain issues with older tv sets and newer set top boxes but my bedroom tv has something else going on i think.
I thought I'd tentatively share my working solution for cec on my bedroom aftv. I posted in the past that my bedroom tv absolutely MUST be powered on first before AFTV or the audio from every video i play will cut in & out indefinitely until i reboot aftv. This is extraordinarily annoying, especially since i have boot menu so the reboot process takes even longer. Someone isolated the problem as bad cec support on my bedroom tv. Looking into it, I saw you can remove or bend pin 13 on hdmi cables to kill cec. This seemed a little reckless so here's what I did...
I experimented with an old and unused roku box. I took a tiny sliver of electrical tape and carefully covered pin 13 on the hdmi cable. It took me like 7 times to get it perfect. Then i tried it with my roku box and everything worked fine.
So then i tried it on aftv with my old cec-impaired tv and it fixed my issue! Finally!
Only thing I wonder is the material i used. It's just a piece of electrical tape which should stay in place because this particular tv is mounted tightly to the wall with no side inputs (very difficult to plug in hdmi). Not that heat should be much of a factor since electrical tape should withstand but does anyone know of any reason this material might adversely affect the TV? All is working fine so I'm not trying to be pessimistic but if anyone with advanced knowledge of hdmi/cec has any info to add please let me know here. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this info, I fortunately do not suffer from this problem but this is really great info. Thank you for the informative post
Remote control will only work about 1 foot away from firestick. Worked OK for a while then this happened. Checked with another firestick and remote so definately problem in firestick. Done a full reset but problem still there and re paired remotes. Batteries fine Works fine with Iphone app Sideloaded progs and didn't try to root it. Is this a symptom of efuse failure or can it be fixed
Mine's also garbage. Drops out before 1m away, so an expensive piece of rubbish never to be used. Most people sit a few metres away from their TVs, so not being able to use your remote to change channels when seated is like going back to pushbutton TVs. An awful product - don't waste your money on it.
I'm sorry that this post is long, but if I don't explain everything, the issues won't make sense.
1. I got a firestick in January of 2020. I'm using it on a older TV: Sanyo -- 10 to 15 years old -- does have 2 HDMI ports.
2. I have fiber optic cable, and the connection speed always says "Very Good."
3. For roughly six months, the firestick worked amazingly well.
4. Recently, it is usually slow. Takes too much time to bring up the show I want. It sometimes cuts away from what I'm watching completely, and returns to the homepage. I've tried 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz. Neither seems better than the other.
5. I've tried restarting and resetting the firestick. I've also uninstalled whatever applications allow for that. On others, I've used "Force Stop," and I've cleaned out the data and cache for all apps. I've turned off all things like "Data Monitoring," as suggested on other sites.
6. I've tried the ethernet adapter and cable, connecting the firestick directly to the router. This doesn't seem to help at all.
7. The firestick is close to the router, anyway -- about 8 feet.
8. The router, rented from the cable company, is older, but I don't know how old. It's a Calix Gigacenter, 844E-1, model 100-04015.
Additional Info: I live in a small apartment. My nearest neighbor, whose apartment is a bit larger, has a Roku, and a different ISP. Her cable is the "regular," meaning not fiber optic. She has frequent disconnection problems, and we both have very poor cell phone signals. Other neighbors have similar problems regarding their cell phones -- but I've been told that cell phone signals (or lack of same) don't have any connection with cables. Even so, it seems that this apartment complex exists in a twilight zone of some kind.
This apartment complex is within the city limits of a small town (population @ 8000)
More information that seems especially ODD to me: Other than the firestick under discussion, I have one more firestick (in the bedroom), a fairly new laptop, and a state of the art desktop -- all on the same network. The ODD part is, the firestick under discussion does better when all the other devices are running. (Wait. The firestick in the bedroom runs for only a short time at night; then it's off. So the living room firestick runs better when the desktop and the laptop are both running.
This seems the opposite of what it should be, but there you have it. Any ideas and help will be much appreciated. Thank you
I'm cleaning the driveway from this white stuff, wearing the pixel buds A while the truck is running to thaw.
If I walk up to the truck, the phone connects to the truck's radio.
Can I set up a connection preference so the phone ignores radio while the buds are on/in use? Rules wants full time location 25/8, which is not needed for what I'm looking to do.
P6p unlocked, no root.
Muchas gracias, komsamnida, domo arigato, thanks...
I wouldn't expect it to connect to your truck unless the truck is turned on, otherwise what's stopping it from just connecting when you're in close proximity anyway? Say you're working near it, phone rings, you answer... audio is routed to the car which is off.
If the truck is on, it implies you're driving it, which would indicate a higher priority for connection. I think the phone is working correctly, but the truck's bluetooth is NOT.
Larzzzz82 said:
I'm cleaning the driveway from this white stuff, wearing the pixel buds A while the truck is running to thaw.
If I walk up to the truck, the phone connects to the truck's radio.
Can I set up a connection preference so the phone ignores radio while the buds are on/in use? Rules wants full time location 25/8, which is not needed for what I'm looking to do.
P6p unlocked, no root.
Muchas gracias, komsamnida, domo arigato, thanks...
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Click to collapse
I've heard it said that at least sometimes in the past, Bluetooth priority was in the order that things were paired to it, but I've also heard that it doesn't necessarily actually follow that priority anymore. In short, I haven't heard of a potential solution other than trying that (unpair everything, re-pair in your preferred order, then test).
96carboard said:
I wouldn't expect it to connect to your truck unless the truck is turned on, otherwise what's stopping it from just connecting when you're in close proximity anyway? Say you're working near it, phone rings, you answer... audio is routed to the car which is off.
If the truck is on, it implies you're driving it, which would indicate a higher priority for connection. I think the phone is working correctly, but the truck's bluetooth is NOT.
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Click to collapse
The truck was running to thaw the ice on the glass.
This still makes no sense to me because if the buds are turned on and connected already, they should take precedence and stay connected.
They should be priority anyways. If they're turned on, they're obviously going to be worn.
Larzzzz82 said:
The truck was running to thaw the ice on the glass.
This still makes no sense to me because if the buds are turned on and connected already, they should take precedence and stay connected.
They should be priority anyways. If they're turned on, they're obviously going to be worn.
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Click to collapse
That's what a scraper is for.
I would always prioritize a car over a headset. When you get into the car with the headset on, it should switch to the car. Working correctly.
You scrape. I'll be cleaning the driveway as the truck warms up.
I'll just hit the down button and the plow will clear the driveway for me.
Larzzzz82 said:
You scrape. I'll be cleaning the driveway as the truck warms up.
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Click to collapse
Hell yeah. When I paid to have an after market remote start put on my base model first ever brand new car in 2014, I had them set the maximum remote start time to an hour. Sure, it was unlikely I'd keep it on that long, but I haven't yet had a garage so there was no risk of poisoning.
I've definitely let the car run for 30 minutes or longer, however, to melt all that ice.
I wear hearing aids and they are paired with the phone, as are my smart watch, and my car. When I'm in the car it connects to it fine. But typically it is paired with my hearing aids which is what I prefer. But sometimes when I'm on the phone it somehow switches back to the phone's speaker or the smart watch instead of my hearing aids. I can't always switch the sound to my ears. My old phone was a OnePlus and by pressing the volume buttons on the phone I could select where I wanted the sound from the phone to go, but there is no such capability on the Pixel. It is a pain in the butt.
almahix said:
I wear hearing aids and they are paired with the phone, as are my smart watch, and my car. When I'm in the car it connects to it fine. But typically it is paired with my hearing aids which is what I prefer. But sometimes when I'm on the phone it somehow switches back to the phone's speaker or the smart watch instead of my hearing aids. I can't always switch the sound to my ears. My old phone was a OnePlus and by pressing the volume buttons on the phone I could select where I wanted the sound from the phone to go, but there is no such capability on the Pixel. It is a pain in the butt.
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Pixel 6 Pro, rooted, same issue
No one knows a way to force priority/override?
christiebunny said:
Pixel 6 Pro, rooted, same issue
No one knows a way to force priority/override?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't yet found a way.
Can malware be installed in a vehicle (2014 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid) via USB port from iPhone?
I ask this question because I am a rideshare driver and I have let passengers connect iphones via USB to play their music. An unsettling thought came to me regarding someone potentially installing malware from their iphone in my cars system. Can this be done? I am not asking for any probability or likeliness of this happening. I just want to know if it can be done. If malware is installed via USB, can it then gain access beyond the media controls, can it then track me and/or maliciously attack any operating aspect of my car? I am concerned that this has been done, how can I solve the problem? Can the dealership/service center scan my vehicle to see if it has malware? Can they "factory reset" the cars computer and process the most current updates? Is it expensive to do so?
I suppose the best preventive measures is to always have the cars bluetooth off. Only provide AUX to listen to music. Only provide 12V usb plugin charger. However, I only put this thought into the bluetooth aspect of it. The other day I slipped up and was cought off guard. Passenger asked me if I had an iphone cable. I assumed they were just going to charge their phone. But then they asked me if they could play their music and not giving any thought I just unplugged from 12V and plugged it into cars USB port. It wasnt till after I dropped off passenger, that I realised I compromised my security measure of not allowing anyone to connect their device to my car (aside from AUX).
I think we take these sorts of things for granted just by letting strangers we dont know connect devices to our cars. This can compromise our safety, privacy and cars mechanical function if someone wants to be malicious.
Side Note: I do not use the cars BlueLink and never have. With that being said, can BlueLink then be compromised by the malware or be accessed even though I have never used it?