Hello,
i own a Forester MY17 Diesel CVT and bought a Dasaita Max6 PX6 4/64GB Headunit.
During installation i noticed that the delivered USB-Adapter is wrong - it's for the older Forester without Starlink System.
.........i had to cut the red&black wire on the single USB harness because the USB ports of the car are now powerd by the car not by the unit.
If you don't do that it causes an short circuit and the unit will not boot!!
After that everthing runs fine.........
........until i drive a while - then the rear cam stopped working - only the black screen with the yellow sign.
You all know that - or not??
I had a lot of emails with Dasaita about that problem, but that was wasted time (sorry Bryce & Iris).
Now i had a few days off and time to fiddle around with the unit.
I figured out that before the rear cam is not working you get the black screen with sign when you only mirror the front cam!!??
So it's a calculating issue and that is caused by temperature!
I disassembled the PX6 board and its heatsink and noticed there is a termal pad between but without pressure marks on it.
......so the gap is to big!!
I lowered the "feets" of the headsink and put a good (12W) termal paste between.
Then i installed an aluminium headsink also with termal paste.
.......that gave me some more minutes but was not solving the problem at all.
So next i installed a fan and wired it to ACC & GND.
.........now everything works fine no matter how long you drive!
I orderd an other fan with only 10db, hope then everything is quiet!
Sorry - i can't show you pics, because i'm a new member and not able to add links!!
Best regards
........now pics added!!
Best regards
Great job!
Hello,
today the new fan arrived!
Now all is installed like i wanted it to be......
The fan i ordered.......
.......installed and wired.......
.......and at last the cover!
It works great!!
You have to put your ear direct on the unit to hear the fan - but still very quiet.
When you sit in the car only the fan running you can't hear almost nothing - i love it!
Best regards
Probably a stupid question, I know, but how did you manage do get a hole into the metal coverage?
I have the same unit in my car. Installed it a few days back. So it's fairly new but working good with no modifications.
For a backup camera. I retained the factory installed one "Mitsubishi" And it seems to be working great with no issues so far. Other then I need to be able to adjust the grid lines that are being produced by the headunits software. :laugh:
Hello,
Kambrium said:
Probably a stupid question, I know, but how did you manage do get a hole into the metal coverage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...i drilled four 10mm holes in the corners, saw it out with a jigsaw and the little rest with a file by hand.
Best regards
Hello,
~zATBz~ said:
I have the same unit in my car. Installed it a few days back. So it's fairly new but working good with no modifications.
For a backup camera. I retained the factory installed one "Mitsubishi" And it seems to be working great with no issues so far. Other then I need to be able to adjust the grid lines that are being produced by the headunits software. :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Forester_Diesel_CVT said:
Hello,
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice work!
Did you communicate the root cause back to Dasaita so they can address it in future software/hardware revisions?
Forester_Diesel_CVT said:
Hello,
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes sense. Hotter location would equate to more problems. My unit is installed just below the air conditioning vents. Will be interesting to see what happens in the winter time when hot air comes through the vents vs cold.
How did you manage to reprogram the grid lines cos I installed the same unit on my Mitsubishi, but grid lines are missing .
~zATBz~ said:
This makes sense. Hotter location would equate to more problems. My unit is installed just below the air conditioning vents. Will be interesting to see what happens in the winter time when hot air comes through the vents vs cold.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cabin temp will be about the same at a guess.
marchnz said:
Cabin temp will be about the same at a guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....yes, but not under the dashboard!
The air can not circulate under the dashboard, that's the reason why my passive heatsink didn't worked!
The Subaru HU has a fan too - think they did the same conclusion.
Now with the fan i drove 400Km highway today at 29°C outsidetemp and soc & gpu are at 35°C.
On normal days without AC they are about 30°C.
Fan is always running!
Best regards
simplyshrey said:
How did you manage to reprogram the grid lines cos I installed the same unit on my Mitsubishi, but grid lines are missing .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually still working on grid lines. the newest rom gives you 4 options for grid lines inside settings/car settings/extra settings/show grid ruler. The lines work but I'd like to customize them and make them perfect. They are just a picture file. Figure I'll make a custom lines. Once I get some time.
Hello,
......take a look - standing one hour in trafficjam on highway at 29°C outsidetemp.
DAB+, Navigation, Blockada, CPU-Z and Netflix running
Best regards
Great job! I might try this. Stupid question. Should the fan blow down on the chip/heat sink or draw air up away from it, thanks
Hello,
.......the fan blows to the heatsink.
Between the fan and cover i have a gap about 1mm to prevent noise,
best regards
Hello, did you install the heatsink or is it came from the factory?
New guy 123 said:
Great job! I might try this. Stupid question. Should the fan blow down on the chip/heat sink or draw air up away from it, thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All that matters is airflow.
Did you screw the fan into the heat sink?
Related
Hello everyone,
I've had my G3 D855 which I have been using for 16 months. Bought it brand new on eBay and everything was going well until a month ago when the screen flickering began.
Tried every trick on YouTube or Google but from last week, it got so bad that I'll be lucky to have it working for 5 minutes in 24 hours.
Being a tech enthusiast, I decided to take the bull by the horn. I decided to either end up fixing it or giving it a proper burial.
After careful and logical study of hardware and software, I reached a conclusion that the problem is hardware related.
Which took me to options like ambience sensor, screen connector, battery, processor among others.
Started by eliminating the suspects from the ones easier to handle like battery, inspection of screen connector and flex etc.
SOLUTION
I do recall that many people recorded success with using paper or any other thing to press down the connectors for camera and ambience/proximity sensors (which in turn adds pressure to the big chip at the back(processor).
Since my phone has fallen countless times (at times from a distance), I assumed some components must have partially detached from the motherboard and cause the issue.
So I got a friend's soldering rework station heat gun and soldering paste.
1. Applied paste to the two connectors for the screen as shown on the first image below and reheated them properly then allowed it to cool.
2. Applied paste generously to the main chip(processor) as shown on the second image below and fired it up before letting it also cool down.
Remember that my screen refused to open throughout the day, haven't been able to use it for almost three days. Once I coupled it and started, walah! :laugh:
Not a flicker, not even once and I'm 13 hours still counting but I believe the problem has been fixed (fingers crossed lol) + I used the phone to type and send this.
I advise you try it but be careful not to shift or move the components being heated so as not to displace them and also reach out to as many people as possible cos there are thousands with the issue and I didn't make a video for YouTube as I didn't know it'll work.
So, good luck to you all:good::good::good:
NB:
Just posted a VIDEO https://youtu.be/tP0ds01ML9I
Please if this works for you or someone else, do leave a comment. Also, if you run into any issue(s), let me know so we'll work it out.
Don't know if the moderators can care to make this thread sticky, it's too valuable to be buried down the heap...
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
siredux said:
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not just putting thermal paste but heating the processor back is the key
My advise to those who don't have heat gun or soldering paste is to go to any good technian who has a heat gun in his workshop and let him do it for you. Just show him the places and give him something when he's through. If he's a phone repair person, all the better as he'll know the best technique to apply.
People have had success baking the motherboard in the oven for 10 minutes to fix potential soldering issues with components. At the moment I have used the piece of paper method and it has worked great but will need to use a more permanent method as I plan on selling it.
I've tried the paper method on the adapter near the camera, and, now the display works fine , but my wifi signal strength is lowered. I used to get an excellent signal strength on using wifi at any rooms in my home but now I get excellent signal strength only when I am using wifi near my router.
This sounds very promising and I'm very eager to try this! But I am unfortunately confused, where exactly am I putting the paste on these 3 parts?
Pieddog said:
This sounds very promising and I'm very eager to try this! But I am unfortunately confused, where exactly am I putting the paste on these 3 parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll put the paste over the connectors and the edges where the connectors are soldered to the motherboard then heat.
As for the processor, you put a good amount right on it & as you heat the processor, the paste will melt and drop on the side of the processor to enhance the contact with the motherboard.
ie. You'll put the paste right in the area I circled with red on the attachment pics above.
zayidhs said:
You'll put the paste over the connectors and the edges where the connectors are soldered to the motherboard then heat.
As for the processor, you put a good amount right on it & as you heat the processor, the paste will melt and drop on the side of the processor to enhance the contact with the motherboard.
ie. You'll put the paste right in the area I circled with red on the attachment pics above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm okay thanks, I'll have to go buy a heat gun, they seem pretty cheap. Hopefully I can get this done over the weekend, will report back
siredux said:
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
burgess_boy said:
People have had success baking the motherboard in the oven for 10 minutes to fix potential soldering issues with components. At the moment I have used the piece of paper method and it has worked great but will need to use a more permanent method as I plan on selling it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
Pieddog said:
Hmm okay thanks, I'll have to go buy a heat gun, they seem pretty cheap. Hopefully I can get this done over the weekend, will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
Salman4701 said:
I've tried the paper method on the adapter near the camera, and, now the display works fine , but my wifi signal strength is lowered. I used to get an excellent signal strength on using wifi at any rooms in my home but now I get excellent signal strength only when I am using wifi near my router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
zayidhs said:
Check out the video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please share the link to video ??
what video? did anyone try this method tho and it worked or not?
Salman4701 said:
please share the link to video ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The link is in the post, I added it
Youssef mo7a said:
what video? did anyone try this method tho and it worked or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link in the post. Only 6 people have tried with 100% success. They all gave me feedback
https://youtu.be/tP0ds01ML9I
i'm going to subscribe this thread for my future references if my G3 does flickering too..
thanks for sharing this useful tips anyway
Sent from my LG G3 F400L using your data connection.
zayidhs said:
Check out the video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate, will do!
Conflicting reports in regards to NFC on the higher-end Deluxe models. GSM Arena reports it's available, PDAdb, which i believe is more reliable doesn't even mention 'NFC'.
I believe this VERY common feature has been 'avoided' in this phone, absolutely foolish by ASUS as it's keeping me away from this phone. Can someone please confirm? Anyone know why this decision was made despite the fact they have the 5.5", 5.7" deluxe variants and the ULTRA, which isn't much better?
Thanks
RoOSTA
It is available BUT it is in the very top of the phone.
Most phones use the battery and have NFC centered around the middle of the back. The ASUS Zenfone 3 deluxe, and the ZTE Axon 7, have it at the top of the phone, around where the speaker is located.
I don't know WHY it was put there but I eventually found it with a bit of hair pulling...
Somethings need to be the top part of the back but you can also use the very top of the phone too. A little annoying as this isn't very well explained...
NFC sensor is on the front near the top of the screen.
Yes, it have NFC, in te top of the phone near the call's speaker
I used it all days with some nfc tags.
An awkward location to put the NFC. You cannot see the screen when it is contacting the other device.
ultramag69 said:
It is available BUT it is in the very top of the phone.
Most phones use the battery and have NFC centered around the middle of the back. The ASUS Zenfone 3 deluxe, and the ZTE Axon 7, have it at the top of the phone, around where the speaker is located.
I don't know WHY it was put there but I eventually found it with a bit of hair pulling...
Somethings need to be the top part of the back but you can also use the very top of the phone too. A little annoying as this isn't very well explained...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@wshek @jonasiesta
Thanks guys. Can you show me a quick NFC tag scan in a short video please?
roosta said:
@[email protected]
Thanks guys. Can you show me a quick NFC tag scan in a short video please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, so I sometimes get the NFC to work (unlike my zenfone 2) bit when I tap to send / beam a picture it goes to Google play and tries to install the gallery app. Anyone know how to send the picture instead?
jmoricone said:
Hey, so I sometimes get the NFC to work (unlike my zenfone 2) bit when I tap to send / beam a picture it goes to Google play and tries to install the gallery app. Anyone know how to send the picture instead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You "sometimes get it to work" ? Pretty crap phone if it doesn't work as intended...
roosta said:
You "sometimes get it to work" ? Pretty crap phone if it doesn't work as intended...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Senior member of High School
I get NCF to work.. Did not realize the chip was in a different location than model 2. Model 2 is rooted and can send pics via beam with no problem. Version 3 when I try to beam tries to install the app. Don't need wise ass comments. Joined XDA for "real" advice. If I need bull**** comments, remarks, etc I would have just posted on ****ty websites. Real question for real answers. If you have nothing else to do shut the **** up
The NFC is located at the top of the phone. You could "image" it's using the 3.5mm jack as the center of antenna. (Although it's actually there..)
I use the NFC function almost daily for payment (for convenience store purchase as well as subway ride) and it works 100% of time. (never second time touch) The way I use it is screen facing me, only the very top of phone (basically where the 3.5mm jack is located) is touching the payment terminal reception pad.
Most of the payment terminal will even accept the phone lying flat, LCD up as long as the 3.5mm jack is located near center of the payment terminal's reception pad.
The reason why NFC is located at top of phone is that the back of this phone is made by one piece of metal. NFC signal will have trouble pass this metal barrier. Beside, I found it's easier to use as NFC is at top since can hold the phone 45 degrees (LCD facing me) instead stick the back of the phone flat to the payment terminal when making payment.
Also, the screen is not needed to be on when making payment (YMMV, may depend on APP). The sensitivity of NFC is even better then my cashless credit card. (I tested both at same terminal).
lssong99 said:
The NFC is located at the top of the phone. You could "image" it's using the 3.5mm jack as the center of antenna. (Although it's actually there..)
I use the NFC function almost daily for payment (for convenience store purchase as well as subway ride) and it works 100% of time. (never second time touch) The way I use it is screen facing me, only the very top of phone (basically where the 3.5mm jack is located) is touching the payment terminal reception pad.
Most of the payment terminal will even accept the phone lying flat, LCD up as long as the 3.5mm jack is located near center of the payment terminal's reception pad.
The reason why NFC is located at top of phone is that the back of this phone is made by one piece of metal. NFC signal will have trouble pass this metal barrier. Beside, I found it's easier to use as NFC is at top since can hold the phone 45 degrees (LCD facing me) instead stick the back of the phone flat to the payment terminal when making payment.
Also, the screen is not needed to be on when making payment (YMMV, may depend on APP). The sensitivity of NFC is even better then my cashless credit card. (I tested both at same terminal).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. One of the downsides of the body design I guess... Good to see its working for you and there's a way around it. I would've gone for this phone had root been available on it by now. Lack of IR is something I don't use all the time, but still find it important and am using on my V20...
RoOSTA
Hey there,
I have some issues with the MTCB. Someone had these before?
First problem which is already quite annoying is that pictures are kind of burned in and still show shadows on the other screen
Second problem which is even more bad is that the display flickers. This is more or less obvious in different scenes.
When looking closely it seems like there is a grid (coming and going in the same frequence like the music is playing?). The attached video shows it.
Especially with white background the flickering gets very bad.
Don't know if this could be related to the Malaysk Firmware I use. Or is is it a hardware issue?
Also contacted the support. Let's see what they say...
messiah said:
Hey there,
I have some issues with the MTCB. Someone had these before?
First problem which is already quite annoying is that pictures are kind of burned in and still show shadows on the other screen
Second problem which is even more bad is that the display flickers. This is more or less obvious in different scenes.
When looking closely it seems like there is a grid (coming and going in the same frequence like the music is playing?). The attached video shows it.
Especially with white background the flickering gets very bad.
Don't know if this could be related to the Malaysk Firmware I use. Or is is it a hardware issue?
Also contacted the support. Let's see what they say...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a screen issue to me, have you checked the ribbon connector hasnt come slightly undone ?
Hi, thanks for answering.
Attached is the video I spoke about. I missed to upload it.
You mean to open the device and check the ribbon connector inside, right?
Regards
edit: the video
messiah said:
Hey there,
I have some issues with the MTCB. Someone had these before?
First problem which is already quite annoying is that pictures are kind of burned in and still show shadows on the other screen
Second problem which is even more bad is that the display flickers. This is more or less obvious in different scenes.
When looking closely it seems like there is a grid (coming and going in the same frequence like the music is playing?). The attached video shows it.
Especially with white background the flickering gets very bad.
Don't know if this could be related to the Malaysk Firmware I use. Or is is it a hardware issue?
Also contacted the support. Let's see what they say...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is commom in these units.
It's worst when it's hot.
I kinda fixed mine opening it and adjusting some kind of screw near the screen. You turn it and screen gets darker, you need to find a point between too dark and flickering. But when I park my car at the sun, and it gets hot inside, screen get bright again, so flickering and persistent images.
And here is a video about it.
pczao said:
This is commom in these units.
It's worst when it's hot.
I kinda fixed mine opening it and adjusting some kind of screw near the screen. You turn it and screen gets darker, you need to find a point between too dark and flickering. But when I park my car at the sun, and it gets hot inside, screen get bright again, so flickering and persistent images.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Personally I wouldnt say "common" - I ve only hear about 3 people mention it in the last 3 years.
typos1 said:
Personally I wouldnt say "common" - I ve only hear about 3 people mention it in the last 3 years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's commom. That's why Joying even put a video online to show how to fix it.
I believe that when they produce the unit, it's now well tuned up, or it's cold in the factory and they don't realize, so when someone who lives in a hot weather area install it, the problem appears.
It's a bad hardware design, they use analog potentiometer, they should use some digital and automatic one to regulate screen frequency.
pczao said:
It's commom. That's why Joying even put a video online to show how to fix it.
I believe that when they produce the unit, it's now well tuned up, or it's cold in the factory and they don't realize, so when someone who lives in a hot weather area install it, the problem appears.
It's a bad hardware design, they use analog potentiometer, they should use some digital and automatic one to regulate screen frequency.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, Like I said, I ve not heard much about it in the 3 years I ve been following the threads on here, but I do remember Joyous having problems with their screens and 5.1.1 - they couldnt get 5.1.1 to work on their 4.4.4 RK3188 units unless the screen was changed !! Sounds like its more a problem with Joyous units.
I agree there's not many complaints about this problem here, that's why I believe that may be some "quality check" sloppiness. It's very simple to solve anyway.
But all units seems to use analog potentiometer, so, bad design. There's nothing to do with Joying only and the fact they changed screen to update to 5.1.1.
And most users in this forum don't live in hot weather areas. In my case, Brazil, is hot must time of the year, above 34 C degrees (93 F), in the shade.
pczao said:
I agree there's not many complaints about this problem here, that's why I believe that may be some "quality check" sloppiness. It's very simple to solve anyway.
But all units seems to use analog potentiometer, so, bad design. There's nothing to do with Joying only and the fact they changed screen to update to 5.1.1.
And most users in this forum don't live in hot weather areas. In my case, Brazil, is hot must time of the year, above 34 C degrees (93 F), in the shade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reminding me that its only 4 C degrees here in the UK
typos1 said:
Thanks for reminding me that its only 4 C degrees here in the UK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't make me jealous!!
UK weather is great. I've been there once, liked very much.
Some friends are going to travel there later this month. I'm unable to go because my daughter is too young.
pczao said:
Don't make me jealous!!
UK weather is great. I've been there once, liked very much.
Some friends are going to travel there later this month. I'm unable to go because my daughter is too young.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Youre envious of 4 deg C ?! I get 34 deg C is a bit hot, but 4 is a bit cold !
Half way between 4 and 34 @ 19 deg C would be perfect
typos1 said:
Youre envious of 4 deg C ?! I get 34 deg C is a bit hot, but 4 is a bit cold !
Half way between 4 and 34 @ 19 deg C would be perfect
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed!
pczao said:
Agreed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, meet you in St.Helena, thats about half way init?
typos1 said:
Lol, meet you in St.Helena, thats about half way init?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked at the map and St. Helena is a little to the south, a direct flight seems a better option.
But feel welcome if you want to come to Brazil someday.
It's a bit messy but it's a good country. I'm not going to take you to meet any favela, by the way. Don't know why tourists are so eager to go in one, it's very dangerous, and I don't think they represent Brazil that much, so many different beatiful places to go.
pczao said:
I looked at the map and St. Helena is a little to the south, a direct flight seems a better option.
But feel welcome if you want to come to Brazil someday.
It's a bit messy but it's a good country. I'm not going to take you to meet any favela, by the way. Don't know why tourists are so eager to go in one, it's very dangerous, and I don't think they represent Brazil that much, so many different beatiful places to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont worry, slums were not the first thing on my mind when thinking about Brazil
pczao said:
And here is a video about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there, thanks but the video is not working.
I did not open the unit yet to check if the screw will improve. But I will test soon when I find some time.
By the way it's around 0°C here. So not very warm
Attached is another video. The flickering of the right white picture is actually visible. It's not a flickering of the camera.
messiah said:
Hey there, thanks but the video is not working.
I did not open the unit yet to check if the screw will improve. But I will test soon when I find some time.
By the way it's around 0°C here. So not very warm
Attached is another video. The flickering of the right white picture is actually visible. It's not a flickering of the camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the link of the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GsRriCgZzd4
Just open the unit and fix it, very easy.
Took some time until I tried the fix. But the screw fixed it.
Carjoy recommended a power filter, but since the screw fixed it i prefer this...
The screen is now slightly darker. But I like the crisp image and better saturation of the colors (and of course no flicker).
Thanks!
messiah said:
Took some time until I tried the fix. But the screw fixed it.
Carjoy recommended a power filter, but since the screw fixed it i prefer this...
The screen is now slightly darker. But I like the crisp image and better saturation of the colors (and of course no flicker).
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does the unit have to be powered on when tighten the screw?
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Hi all,
Firstly apologies for the long post but I feel the more information I can supply the better diagnosis might be made.
I was recently given an LG G3 D855 16GB/2GB phone which has a very intermittent issue of rebooting and throwing a blue screen, notably it seems after I run any app updates. I have so far done the following to try to fix it:
1: I managed to get it working long enough to get all my friend's pics and movies etc off, then performed a factory reset using vol down and power button. Phone booted up fine, I could proceed through the setup options. Took it to work and using LG PC suite upgraded to Marshmallow. No issues.
2: Updated two apps from Playstore, rebooted and got a blue screen and reboot, but eventually it came right again and I was able to use it for a while.
3: Ran another update from Playstore and got a blue screen before the update was even installed. Left it alone for about an hour with the battery out then booted up and did a factory reset again with back buttons. All good, ran through setup no issues.
4: After using it for a few days I decide to try to update again, and again blue screen and reboot. This time did not come right even after leaving it.
5: Downloaded KitKat TOT and DLL files for my specific area or zone, South Africa, and managed to get the phone into download mode then used LG Flash Tool v 1.8.1.1023 to install ROM from TOT file. All went well. No issues at all.
6: Used for about a week then upgrade to Lollipop via LG PC Suite. Again, no issues whatsoever.
7: Next day decide to do updates, updates went fine until I rebooted then blue screen, followed by green screen with the demigod kernel crash message and reboot. However, I just left it to do its reboots and after about 5 or 6 times it booted up and stayed running.
8: This past Monday I upgraded to Marshmallow using LG PC suite, no issues whatsoever.
9: Yesterday I ran one update and rebooted, blue screen and rebooting. Took battery out and left it for about an hour again, put battery back in and did factory reset using back buttons.
10: As of right now phone is functioning perfectly again.
I must mention the following:
1: I can install any app that gets wiped when doing a factory rest, like WhatsApp, Nine Email, GBoard etc with no issue whatsoever.
2: The battery is fine as far as I can tell, it lasts about 3/4 of the day under normal to heavy usage and is not swollen at all.
3: The Phone NEVER gets hot at the back, even when rebooting constantly or throwing a blue screen.
4: As far as I know it has not been dropped.
5: It is protected by the LG QuickCircle case with QI charging back.
My question after all this is, could this be a hardware (Motherboard) issue or is it software somehow? I really like this phone when its working correctly so would love to be able to use it with no worries.
Any guidance at all from the wonderful smart people here at XDA will be highly appreciated!
Thank you for your time and patience!
Blue screen is, I think related to SSD losing some contact with motherboard. You need to open the device, get the motherboard out and put 0.5 mm thermal pad on the SSD (under the EMI shield) and put the shield back. Then take a 1mm thermal pad, or 0.5 depending on your preference but I highly recommend a 1mm one to reduce the risk of running into screen fading issue, and put it on the RAM chip. Put everything together and screw the upper screws tight so that pressure is made to the chips.
You can also apply heat to the chip beforehand, while applying some pressure. In that case, I recommend you to put something on the other side, on the RAM chip so that on both chips pressure is made while the heat is being applied. You can use hair dryer but shield the rest of the boad with some aluminum foil. Try only the thermal pads first tho.
more info: https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/general/g3-hardware-problems-solved-bsod-screen-t3597086
xfim said:
Blue screen is, I think related to SSD losing some contact with motherboard. You need to open the device, get the motherboard out and put 0.5 mm thermal pad on the SSD (under the EMI shield) and put the shield back. Then take a 1mm thermal pad, or 0.5 depending on your preference but I highly recommend a 1mm one to reduce the risk of running into screen fading issue, and put it on the RAM chip. Put everything together and screw the upper screws tight so that pressure is made to the chips.
You can also apply heat to the chip beforehand, while applying some pressure. In that case, I recommend you to put something on the other side, on the RAM chip so that on both chips pressure is made while the heat is being applied. You can use hair dryer but shield the rest of the boad with some aluminum foil. Try only the thermal pads first tho.
more info: https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/general/g3-hardware-problems-solved-bsod-screen-t3597086
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Hi and thank you for your reply. I hear what you are saying about the SSD but my question is why only very erratically and why only when I do updates? The phone works flawlessly with calls, watching movies, doing email, using WhatApp. The ONLY time I have issues that I can ascertain is when I do updates.
marcd2015 said:
Hi and thank you for your reply. I hear what you are saying about the SSD but my question is why only very erratically and why only when I do updates? The phone works flawlessly with calls, watching movies, doing email, using WhatApp. The ONLY time I have issues that I can ascertain is when I do updates.
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I suppose because updates require a lot of storage I/O so it heats up more and that causes the solder to expand enough to trigger the cracked connection to do its job lol. It also heats up the CPU more than updating system over PC. Thermal pads are cheap. You can, however use aluminum foil just for the test but thermal pads are safer to use.
xfim said:
I suppose because updates require a lot of storage I/O so it heats up more and that causes the solder to expand enough to trigger the cracked connection to do its job lol. It also heats up the CPU more than updating system over PC. Thermal pads are cheap. You can, however use aluminum foil just for the test but thermal pads are safer to use.
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Hi and thanks again for your reply. Well, I can tell you that it is getting worse, I had random reboots and one or two blue screens for no reason, other than just normal usage. I went to the link you provided but the links in that original post to the images no longer work, however I did find the images so just need to ask, what you refer to as the SSD is that the Sandisk 16GB SDIN9DW4 memory as in the image attached?
That is correct. It is an emmc 5.0 spec. Remember to put pressure on both sides of the board (on ssd and ram)
xfim said:
That is correct. It is an emmc 5.0 spec. Remember to put pressure on both sides of the board (on ssd and ram)
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Thanks will do. Now to try to find thermal pads here in South Africa!!! LOL
marcd2015 said:
Thanks will do. Now to try to find thermal pads here in South Africa!!! LOL
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You can try with something else just to test if it works haha. Then you can search for thermal pads. You should be able to find them in a computer shop.
xfim said:
You can try with something else just to test if it works haha. Then you can search for thermal pads. You should be able to find them in a computer shop.
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Thanks I'm sure I will find somewhere. One more question if I may, do I cut the pad to fit the chip or slightly bigger or what is the best tried size for this repair?
marcd2015 said:
Thanks I'm sure I will find somewhere. One more question if I may, do I cut the pad to fit the chip or slightly bigger or what is the best tried size for this repair?
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Yeah you can cut it in the size of the chip but it doesnt really matter as long as it isnt smaller than the chip. If you have aluminum foil at home you can try with that first. Fold it a few times until it's thick enough. Just put some tape over it in case it touches the motherboard so it doesnt short out.
xfim said:
Yeah you can cut it in the size of the chip but it doesnt really matter as long as it isnt smaller than the chip. If you have aluminum foil at home you can try with that first. Fold it a few times until it's thick enough. Just put some tape over it in case it touches the motherboard so it doesnt short out.
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Thanks but I'll rather just do it once right, so I will hunt for the thermal pads. I'm not wanting to disassemble the phone too many times.
marcd2015 said:
Thanks but I'll rather just do it once right, so I will hunt for the thermal pads. I'm not wanting to disassemble the phone too many times.
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Disassembling the G3 is very easy. Check the guide on youtube and you'll get the motherboard out in less than 5 minutes. Just be careful with the ribbon cables. You got two on the bottom and two cameras at the top. I recommend you to try doing this before buying thermal pads just in case I was wrong and the issue is something else.
xfim said:
Disassembling the G3 is very easy. Check the guide on youtube and you'll get the motherboard out in less than 5 minutes. Just be careful with the ribbon cables. You got two on the bottom and two cameras at the top. I recommend you to try doing this before buying thermal pads just in case I was wrong and the issue is something else.
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Will do and thank you for all the help!! I will post an update soon on whether the fix worked!!
Good luck!
xfim said:
Good luck!
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Well it seems there is a deeper issue with this damn phone!! I finally got the thermal pad, Artctic brand, 0.5mm but as soon as i apply the pads to the areas described and tighten up the phone simply refuses to switch on at all!!!. If I remove all screws from the upper frame and then try to switch on it does and blue screens immediately. So I'm thinking I just need to suck it up and get a new motherboard.
Thanks to all for the help with this!
EDIT:
Seems I had to leave it for a while, as it is now switched on and booted up no problem, with pads in place and screwed down. Minor issue now is it won't read the SIM card but I have also found a fix for that. Right now I'm running updates and so far all good, no blue screen yet. Will post back on Monday after I've used it for a bit.
marcd2015 said:
Well it seems there is a deeper issue with this damn phone!! I finally got the thermal pad, Artctic brand, 0.5mm but as soon as i apply the pads to the areas described and tighten up the phone simply refuses to switch on at all!!!. If I remove all screws from the upper frame and then try to switch on it does and blue screens immediately. So I'm thinking I just need to suck it up and get a new motherboard.
Thanks to all for the help with this!
EDIT:
Seems I had to leave it for a while, as it is now switched on and booted up no problem, with pads in place and screwed down. Minor issue now is it won't read the SIM card but I have also found a fix for that. Right now I'm running updates and so far all good, no blue screen yet. Will post back on Monday after I've used it for a bit.
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If the pads dont work well enough, you can take the motherboard out, remove the metal shields and take some hard flat metal pieces that you can put on both ssd and ram (big enough to cover them), then put some aluminum foil big enough to cover the motherboard (to protect the rest of the board from heat) and take something like pliers to put pressure on both of the metal pieces (aim for the middle of chips). Then take a candle and concentrate heat on both chips. Switch sides every now and then for about 5 minutes. This is how I fixed both reboot and screen fading problem atleast temporarily.
xfim said:
If the pads dont work well enough, you can take the motherboard out, remove the metal shields and take some hard flat metal pieces that you can put on both ssd and ram (big enough to cover them), then put some aluminum foil big enough to cover the motherboard (to protect the rest of the board from heat) and take something like pliers to put pressure on both of the metal pieces (aim for the middle of chips). Then take a candle and concentrate heat on both chips. Switch sides every now and then for about 5 minutes. This is how I fixed both reboot and screen fading problem atleast temporarily.
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Hi, thanks for the reply. No, the pads are working fine, so far, just that I had to loosen the lower screw on the volume/power panel in order to get the SIM card to read. But otherwise so far so good
marcd2015 said:
Hi, thanks for the reply. No, the pads are working fine, so far, just that I had to loosen the lower screw on the volume/power panel in order to get the SIM card to read. But otherwise so far so good
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Good to hear!
xfim said:
Good to hear!
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Hi I would just like to post an update to this,. After much battling I have finally managed to get a working phone that seems stable so far after 4 days. I'm using a 0.5mm pad on either side as the phone simply will not switch on with a 1mm pad on the screen side. Also, I had to screw down the screw I loosened at the bottom of the volume rocker/power assembly, the SIM card is still working however the SD card no longer reads but that's not a serious issue as the phone has 16GB onboard and I'm not using it for major games or movies or anything like that, purely for work email, calls/SMS, WhatsApp.
So here's hoping it will now continue to work and i will post here regularly with any updates and/or issues if that's acceptable to the moderators.
Bare in mind, all of these fixes are not permanent, for a permanent one you need a new MOBO
I recently bought one from this units and i am very happy with it (minor some cold weldings in the main board that i fixed them)
Immediately i saw that the unit in idle without running anything with Hardware Info had 50-55 celcius in a cold winder night here in Greece (5 degrees) so i opened it and from some other users that i saw here i installed a 6cm fan with a heatsink that i bought from Amazon.
The specific fan is this one and with this adhensive i set it to place.
After the installation with all my programs on (DVR, maps, radio, torque for example) the system never passes the 35 degrees which is great because my main worry is the heat here in Greece in the summer.
This fan if you go near the Head Unit has some noise if you mute the radio and you have complete silence in the car but this is not a problem for me since im not in complete silence never . If you troubled you can put a smaller fan for sure.
Also i noticed when i oppened it that the board with the PX5 that was soldered in the main board had Cold Weldings so i passed them to be sure that will not cause any trouble in time.
Finally the 2 cables that fan was needed for power the positive i had solder it to the 5th pin if you see the photo of the main output plug of the Pumpkin. This pin is the Amplifier signal. The ground i soldered it to the Sasi of the Antenna. Now when you start the unit the fan does not start till a full boot is implemented where it sends the signal to the amplifier and then the Fan starts. It doesnt matter if you have amplifier or not in your installation, the unit when is fully booted sends power to that pin.
Also there is no electrical noise because of the fan.
If you have any questions i will be glad to answer them.
Chris
great explanation
thanks !
which software did you use to monitor board temperature ?
carmelo42 said:
great explanation
thanks !
which software did you use to monitor board temperature ?
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Sorry for the late reply. Hardware info i use.