Galaxy S9+, Android 9
The Smartthings --> Audio Output section contains a Display Device as an output. Whenever a bluetooth headset disconnects, that becomes the default one instead of the My Phone.
As far as I remember it appeared there after first connecting to a TV and starting Dex.
Now I'm not able to get rid of it. (I'm not using Dex anymore, the phone is not connected to a TV via HDMI)
Anyone any idea? Thanks!
Related
Hello all,
I have the FTV box going directly to my TV via the HDMI cable. I also have the FTV box going to my receiver via optical cable for audio.
I have the same setup for my cable box. There is no connection from TV to receiver.
In the past, with other devices (Roku, WDTV) I would play some content from Netflix or Amazon prime, but would then turn my TV off - leaving me with just audio. I do this at night because I like to listen to something as I go to sleep.
With the FTV, I have noticed as soon as I change to a different content source on my TV, or if I turn off my TV, the audio from the FTV stops. Does anyone know if there is a way to get around this?
Sounds like CEC HDMI communication between the FTV and your TV. When you turn one device off, the device that receives the signal to turn off tells the other device to turn off or go into standby. Maybe there's a setting in the FTV to turn that feature off? Or, you could probably disable it at the TV. Samsung has a different name for it (AnyNet or some such).
jpage101 said:
Hello all,
I have the FTV box going directly to my TV via the HDMI cable. I also have the FTV box going to my receiver via optical cable for audio.
I have the same setup for my cable box. There is no connection from TV to receiver.
In the past, with other devices (Roku, WDTV) I would play some content from Netflix or Amazon prime, but would then turn my TV off - leaving me with just audio. I do this at night because I like to listen to something as I go to sleep.
With the FTV, I have noticed as soon as I change to a different content source on my TV, or if I turn off my TV, the audio from the FTV stops. Does anyone know if there is a way to get around this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect the fire TV via optical out....this will continue to play the audio when you turn the TV off. Have not tried this with ftv but I have a similar situation with my windowshtpc.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
floepie said:
Sounds like CEC HDMI communication between the FTV and your TV. When you turn one device off, the device that receives the signal to turn off tells the other device to turn off or go into standby. Maybe there's a setting in the FTV to turn that feature off? Or, you could probably disable it at the TV. Samsung has a different name for it (AnyNet or some such).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much. That was it. I disabled it at the TV level. It's called "Power Link" on Panasonic TV's.
It appears I also am having this problem, but my TV does not have an option to turn off the power feature. I remember awhile back someone somewhere saying there was an adapter for the hdmi that helped with this. Anyone have an idea of what it was? Would love to listen to music on this thing and not return it and go back to my old Roku
Sorry - Bit of Necro Posting! Seemed better than starting a new one.
I have pretty much the same issue - have no option on my Samsung TV to disable CEC as it does not support it (confirmed with Samsung).
If it turn off the TV it stops the audio and the youtube app will "crash". i put that in inverted commas as it is a strange sort of crash. the app still functions and will browse the subscriptions/channels ect but will not load the video - i just get the spinning dots. Only a full restart of the device fixes it
Have reset to factory defaults and deleted the apps.
Thinking it is connected to the TV in some way as if i put a HDMI switcher in between, it doesnt happen.
Gen 1 AFTV - latest OS
Sound - Optical out to Samsung Soundbar
Video - HDMI to Samsung LT31D
If anyone has any ideas, i'd be grateful. Happy to supply any info that may be usefull.
Cheers
Rob
Robmason1982 said:
Sorry - Bit of Necro Posting! Seemed better than starting a new one.
I have pretty much the same issue - have no option on my Samsung TV to disable CEC as it does not support it (confirmed with Samsung).
If it turn off the TV it stops the audio and the youtube app will "crash". i put that in inverted commas as it is a strange sort of crash. the app still functions and will browse the subscriptions/channels ect but will not load the video - i just get the spinning dots. Only a full restart of the device fixes it
Have reset to factory defaults and deleted the apps.
Thinking it is connected to the TV in some way as if i put a HDMI switcher in between, it doesnt happen.
Gen 1 AFTV - latest OS
Sound - Optical out to Samsung Soundbar
Video - HDMI to Samsung LT31D
If anyone has any ideas, i'd be grateful. Happy to supply any info that may be usefull.
Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you have root on firetv just remove CEC support from the FTV
Ludacrisvp said:
if you have root on firetv just remove CEC support from the FTV
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you advise how i would do that - cant see it in settings? I have rooted.
Many thanks
Removal of the CEC daemon process is likely all you need to do.
Mount system partition as read write then remove:
/system/bin/cecdaemon
Then reboot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/help/solved-hdmi-cec-firetv-4k-fireos-5-0-5-t3328985
My Fire TV gen1 can't be used in headless mode. It is connected to my beamer via HDMI and to my receiver via S/PDIF. The sound is heavily distorted when no HDMI device is connected or when the device is in standby. When I turn my beamer on, the sound is restored to normal immediately and stays that way even if the beamer is switched off again up to the next power cycle/reboot of the FTV. Did anyone observe similar behavior and has any idea for a fix? I already tried all available sound settings in the Fire TV, unfortunately.
Well, just for your information or if anyone encounters a similar problem: it does not work. The box needs an HDMI handshake or most likely an identified display once after reboot to play music. It is the same with the Fire TV 2. A HDMI-to S/PDIF converter or a switch do not seem to provide a solution. My workaround: the box is not disconnected from power and thus not rebooted when my other equipment is powered down. Works like a charm but wastes ~26 kW of power per year.
Hey all,
I have a 2012 Acura TL, it has a 720p screen from the factory. There's a mod called NavTool which adds an HDMI port to the stock screen. I just finished installing the module and I now have the new input. However, what's my best option to make a "smart car" type interface? So far I bought a chromecast and set that up, but I'm having major trouble screencasting my M8's screen using a hotspot on my phone. I have a ATT Hotspot which I used to test screen mirroring with, but it's not ideal.
The car has Bluetooth for audio and calls, and normally my phone would connect to this. I'm able to change songs using the wheel controls (forward/reverse/play/pause). With the NavTool addon, the HDMI audio gets routed through my car's AUX input, so when screen casting I need to switch inputs to AUX instead of BT. As far as I know there's no way to keep audio streamed via phone's bluetooth while screen casting.
So right now, what can I do? I have an HTC M8, but I'm thinking of upgrading to either the HTC 10, or the next larger variant of the Nexus. I don't have to stick with chromecast. I can switch to any system at all, I just need ideas as to what would be the best thing to do. I don't mind spending ~$100 to get this system working. I already spend $200 on the HDMI input. Please tell me your ideas, or if you've seen something which I can do, let me know! Thanks!
Hi guys! Ofesad here from Argentina.
First a litte history: I had a Sony XBR55X805E (android tv) until january. Was killed by a electric surge.
Since then I dont have a TV.
So, yesterday I got a TCL 55" C715 QLED. Picture looks nice, however I have been finding problems all around that I cant seem to find a solution.
First, the most important one: NO AUDIO on ARC.
I have a Yamaha RXV-673 (Dolby+ and DTS, no Atmos). The TV "sees" it as an input device. I can see the receiver menus when I select the HDMI 1 on the tv.
I have try'd changing a lot of things and never saw it as a output device. Even changed the hdmi cable and port (in case of mislabeling), no change.
Of course I tested the receiver with another source and it works perfectly, as it always did with the Sony.
Second, the HDMI-CEC doesnt seem to work.
I plugged my PS4 in HDMI2. Enabled HDMI CEC support. Same on the TV.
Turned everything off.
Turned PS4 On using it's joystick. TV stays off.
------
Also tryd turning everything off. Turning TV on. Select Input HDMI2 and the PS4 doesnt turn on.
Both devices used to work PERFECTLY my Sony with the features mentioned.
So, I ask on any advice on this matter.
The new TV seems nice enough but with all this issues it feels quite... "incomplete". Like a "demo" version.
I dont know what to think.
I am really considering returning it unless I can find the solution to this problems.
Thank you for reading and your advices.
Ofesad.
Same problem on tcl 55c735 and apple tv 4k . Cec don’t turn on tv but turn off . Same problem with 50c735 too. Tv bought in France. Try reinstalling on the 50c735 adviced by TCL and do nothing. Worked with my old Samsung TV. I tried other input and and another hdmi cable and don’t work
This is the recommended power up sequence to reduce and solve any handshake issues...
1. Power-off all equipment (At the wall socket).
2. Ensure all Cables, Splitters, Switches, Extenders are connected within the HDMI Distribution Network.
3. Power on all Splitters, Switches, Extenders within HDMI Distribution Network.
4. Power on all displays and set to HDMI input from HDMI Distribution Network (Source device need to be able to contact display to retrieve EDID information)
5. Power on Sources / Players. Ensure that a path is open from source to display for HDCP handshake negotiation by selecting the proper input on HDMI Switches or HDMI switch/splitter combo’s via the remote control (Sources negotiates HDCP Handshake via HDMI Network to displays which is set to HDMI input to respond to handshake).
Some displays will negotiate HDCP handshake / timing better if the source are already powered on and you may need to change points 3,4,5 above to 4,3,5 or 4,5,3 depending on your equipment.
Hi!
I have a TCL BeyondTV2 (C715) and a Harman Kardon AVR 171s, that has HDMI ARC capability. My brother who owned the system before used it without problem with a Sony Bravia TV (I don't know the exact model) through HDMI ARC. (I think he only had an issue that the AVR could not turn on with CEC only off, but I think he just misconfigured it)
Now I have the AVR and tried to use it with my TCL C715 through ARC, but with no luck. I have all CEC and everything set up, and it is works... for about 10 minutes, when the TV switches back to speakers, and TV remote stops to relay volume up and down controls to AVR. If I switch the input on the AVR from HDMI to something else and back, sometimes it comes back for another 5-10 minutes.
If I use the AVR with S/PDIF the audio is fine, but obviously I cannot control it with my TV remote so, I have to use 2 remotes and separately switch on everything. It is annoying
I recently updated the TV's system to V8-R851T02-LF1V715.000032, but it did not fixed the issue.
I think i have the latest update on the AVR.
Did someone encountered this problem? Does anybody have ideas how I could debug this? I did not find any related posts on the forum, but maybe I missed one. I have ADB set up, so if there is a way to get logs I would be happy to (I did not see anything with logcat, but maybe I used it incorrectly)
Any ideas appreciated!