I did a search and most of the Wifi problems seem to describe knox security and bootloader issues.
Here, I wish to describe/discuss what seems to be a hardware problem in my n7100 note 2.
This occurs with stock and dr. ketan rom on 4.4.2 even with wifipatch applied (technically not needed).
OS 4.4.2
boot loader: n7100ZSUFNL1 (I believe this bootloader should be ok - correct me if I'm wrong).
model GT-n7100
ISSUE
- the wifi icon doesn't turn on or wifi drops out when the system is running hot. This happened the first time after I flashed a ROM/upgraded and I thought it was a ROM issue.
- however, more recently, I have managed to keep the wifi signal absolutely stable when i open up the back cover and run a fan blowing on the back/cpu area at the top back of the phone around the camera area.
- with fan cooling => completely stable
- without fan cooling => drops out when system under load or randomly.
for some reason, omega rom had a problem for me where it kept disconnecting irrespective of the heat
I have seen discussions of our phone overheating but this seems to be a hardware problem with the wifi module.
I presume that there may be micro fractures with the wifi chip solder (seems to be a theme in electronics) that may be causing wifi problems with overheating.
This happened with an iphone 4 voice audio processing chip once for me and the "online community" had figured out a fix by taping in a "pressure mount" for the chip.
//blog.lovefone.co.uk/iphone-4-faulty-microphone-audio-chip-problem
Any suggestions on taping in a heatsink or pressure against the wifi module?
Help would be appreciated. Just adding to the knowledgebase in the community.
When Samsung adopted RoHS some range of devices plagued with badly soldered BroadCom chips. I personally know one S3 and two Note 2 (one is mine own) with all the same problem: no WiFi from time to time and likely no BT too.
I paid ~100 euros to change the main board with BC chip guaranteed working about half a year ago.
Thanks for the quick reply and confirmation.
After ordering a new midframe; playing around with screws and disassembling it a few times; it does feel like a solder joint/connection issue.
I haven't heard much feedback from the net on this problem which is why i raised it.
Others on the net have mentioned loosening the screws securing the motherboard down. I will try that as well but I presume that with a loose solder joint; overtightened screws may warp the motherboard just enough for the connection to flake out.
THanks again.
PS - if anyone else has the same problem/suspicion; please chime in.
So, in follow up.
Adding aluminum tape to the wifi chip didn't seem to work. I took it off and reseated the midframe where the antenna is located.
Still was getting dropped wifi.
Disassembled; took a small screwdriver and gently lifted the wifi contacts from the motherboard up so that it makes better contact with the midframe.
Seemed to help.
It's definitely hardware. Whether it's a problem with the WIFI chip or with the antenna; i don't know but it's somewhere along that line.
Crazy hardware gremlins
Hi, I have been having some issues with my Eonon head unit (Klyde rebrand).
Most of the time the head unit won't come on until about 30 minutes into driving. Most of the time, the reversing camera doesn't work. A lot of the time when I now turn the engine off and take the key out, the stereo will stay on for an indefinite amount of time.
Everything works perfectly sometimes. It's driving me nuts.
I can get to recovery without fail.
It was working perfectly all the time up until a few months ago. I'm not really sure when I first noticed it but it's definitely gotten worse.
I had a few different ideas as to what it could be.
* Battery issues; I got a warning light once a while ago to say my battery was low. This was just after a 20 minute drive when I had turned off the engine but kept the stereo on. It only came up once though. I've tried hooking another battery with jumper leads to rule this out too. With the jumper leads, the stereo still wouldn't come on.
* Fuse in the stereo itself; it's a suggestion to check to see if the fuse is blown in the stereo. Is it just a case of pulling the fuse out and it will be obviously blown? Or would I have to buy a new one to test?
* 12V DC not getting to the stereo; Someone else suggested that they had very similar problems (could get stereo to recovery but not to boot) and their solution was that it wasn't receiving 12V DC. I will check this out with a multimeter tomorrow, but if this is the case, how to I go about testing further and fixing?
* Bad software flash; I am currently running Malysk 4.4.4 rom with KLD1 v2.55 though I have tried a number of different MCU's like 'KLD1 v.2.55 with sleep and redesigned sound processor from darkleo', 'KLD1 v.2.55 factory', 'KLD1 v.2.67'. I also tried some KLD6 as someone mentioned that it might be compatible with many KLD1 systems. Same issue no matter what.
Out of interest, I am 99% sure that I was originally on KLD1 v2.55 but that final 1% won't stop niggling at me that I am wrong. Is there a way to confirm?
* Dead CANBUS decoder; if it was dead or dieing, would that cause these issues. Not sure why I think it might be this but I do...
I can't really think of anything else but any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Does anyone know where they are located exactly on the redmi note 5?
Basically i have a used redmi note 5 global with charging problems and after exhausting everything i can think of software related i'm thinking its a faulty diode so i'm contemplating just cutting it out as shown here https://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-3/help/rn3-pro-charging-charging-board-t3671977
Symptoms are as follows
- phone takes a charge when powered off but is tempremental and constantly disconnects every 15 seconds
- I can solve the above by manually flashing firmware files but then it still wont charge properly in the system OS where again its constantly disconnecting and has to be rebooted before it will accept a charge.
- If i flash a new rom / update the initial problem returns where it will only charge when powered off and i have to manually flash the firmware again.
drkdeath5000 said:
Does anyone know where they are located exactly on the redmi note 5?
Basically i have a used redmi note 5 global with charging problems and after exhausting everything i can think of software related i'm thinking its a faulty diode so i'm contemplating just cutting it out as shown here https://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-3/help/rn3-pro-charging-charging-board-t3671977
Symptoms are as follows
- phone takes a charge when powered off but is tempremental and constantly disconnects every 15 seconds
- I can solve the above by manually flashing firmware files but then it still wont charge properly in the system OS where again its constantly disconnecting and has to be rebooted before it will accept a charge.
- If i flash a new rom / update the initial problem returns where it will only charge when powered off and i have to manually flash the firmware again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cutting The Zener Diode out is not a good idea. The Zener diode takes care of the voltage. The Diode works as voltage stabiliser for interference voltage.
Whats your next thread if you cut it?
"Help me, my batterie is just blown away? And i didnt know why!"
so search for the right diode and replace it.
Gerr1 said:
Cutting The Zener Diode out is not a good idea. The Zener diode takes care of the voltage. The Diode works as voltage stabiliser for interference voltage.
Whats your next thread if you cut it?
"Help me, my batterie is just blown away? And i didnt know why!"
so search for the right diode and replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Obviously it would be ideal to replace but have you seen how small the diode is and the circuitry surrounding it? Its no easy task to replace and would require specialists tools and expertise none of which i have.
If you have a method for replacing the diode with a bog standard 60watt iron and heat gun then i'm all ears.
Besides if it blows up i'm really not that bothered. It was a cheap device to fix up for a family member and now that i've established its 99.999% hardware related i've really got nothing to lose.
drkdeath5000 said:
Obviously it would be ideal to replace but have you seen how small the diode is and the circuitry surrounding it? Its no easy task to replace and would require specialists tools and expertise none of which i have.
If you have a method for replacing the diode with a bog standard 60watt iron and heat gun then i'm all ears.
Besides if it blows up i'm really not that bothered. It was a cheap device to fix up for a family member and now that i've established its 99.999% hardware related i've really got nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, you have something to loose, your or somebodies live. You wrote you fix it for a family member, what is if the member loads the battery over night and than the battery expload? The house stays in fire and you loose someones live. Yust my 2 cents.
If you dont have the equipment, search for a tinny repair store. That shouldnt cost much and of course they found the Diode very quick.
Gerr1 said:
Oh no, you have something to loose, your or somebodies live. You wrote you fix it for a family member, what is if the member loads the battery over night and than the battery expload? The house stays in fire and you loose someones live. Yust my 2 cents.
If you dont have the equipment, search for a tinny repair store. That shouldnt cost much and of course they found the Diode very quick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right in that sense but really who charges overnight isnt that a risk in itself diode or not... i dont know about others but we were brought up never to leave devices unattended and certainly not overnight.
My understanding was the zener diode in the upper board is more for high amperage chargers anyway so even if it was cut out the bottom one would still suffice for low amp chargers up to 5v.
Besides i'm not even sure if its possible to replace the diode, i cant think of anyone that would have the capability of doing such a job. I know for a fact that Xiaomi wont touch them i read over on the Xiaomi forums that they just replaced the entire board in the event of a diode failure which is no doubt costly and i'm not willing to spend on a device that i'm unsure of.
If it works after being cut-out then yes maybe but as it stands i wouldnt be willing to spend in excess of £70 when there is no guarantee of it even fixing the issue.
drkdeath5000 said:
You're right in that sense but really who charges overnight isnt that a risk in itself diode or not... i dont know about others but we were brought up never to leave devices unattended and certainly not overnight.
My understanding was the zener diode in the upper board is more for high amperage chargers anyway so even if it was cut out the bottom one would still suffice for low amp chargers up to 5v.
Besides i'm not even sure if its possible to replace the diode, i cant think of anyone that would have the capability of doing such a job. I know for a fact that Xiaomi wont touch them i read over on the Xiaomi forums that they just replaced the entire board in the event of a diode failure which is no doubt costly and i'm not willing to spend on a device that i'm unsure of.
If it works after being cut-out then yes maybe but as it stands i wouldnt be willing to spend in excess of £70 when there is no guarantee of it even fixing the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand you, i wouldnt spend also 70 pounds for the repair of a zener diode. Search for a tinny repair store in your location, most eletronic repair stores have the right zener smd and equipment to fix it for you. We are talking about costs 2 beers and 5 pounds.
The zener diode has nothing to do with the ampere, its a diode to stabilise the voltage, if your charger loads with 13 or 14 volt, the diode cuts it down to the right voltage. So take care, overvolting destroys everything in your phone.
btw, drkDEATH is the right nick for your fix method
Hello,
i own a Forester MY17 Diesel CVT and bought a Dasaita Max6 PX6 4/64GB Headunit.
During installation i noticed that the delivered USB-Adapter is wrong - it's for the older Forester without Starlink System.
.........i had to cut the red&black wire on the single USB harness because the USB ports of the car are now powerd by the car not by the unit.
If you don't do that it causes an short circuit and the unit will not boot!!
After that everthing runs fine.........
........until i drive a while - then the rear cam stopped working - only the black screen with the yellow sign.
You all know that - or not??
I had a lot of emails with Dasaita about that problem, but that was wasted time (sorry Bryce & Iris).
Now i had a few days off and time to fiddle around with the unit.
I figured out that before the rear cam is not working you get the black screen with sign when you only mirror the front cam!!??
So it's a calculating issue and that is caused by temperature!
I disassembled the PX6 board and its heatsink and noticed there is a termal pad between but without pressure marks on it.
......so the gap is to big!!
I lowered the "feets" of the headsink and put a good (12W) termal paste between.
Then i installed an aluminium headsink also with termal paste.
.......that gave me some more minutes but was not solving the problem at all.
So next i installed a fan and wired it to ACC & GND.
.........now everything works fine no matter how long you drive!
I orderd an other fan with only 10db, hope then everything is quiet!
Sorry - i can't show you pics, because i'm a new member and not able to add links!!
Best regards
........now pics added!!
Best regards
Great job!
Hello,
today the new fan arrived!
Now all is installed like i wanted it to be......
The fan i ordered.......
.......installed and wired.......
.......and at last the cover!
It works great!!
You have to put your ear direct on the unit to hear the fan - but still very quiet.
When you sit in the car only the fan running you can't hear almost nothing - i love it!
Best regards
Probably a stupid question, I know, but how did you manage do get a hole into the metal coverage?
I have the same unit in my car. Installed it a few days back. So it's fairly new but working good with no modifications.
For a backup camera. I retained the factory installed one "Mitsubishi" And it seems to be working great with no issues so far. Other then I need to be able to adjust the grid lines that are being produced by the headunits software. :laugh:
Hello,
Kambrium said:
Probably a stupid question, I know, but how did you manage do get a hole into the metal coverage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...i drilled four 10mm holes in the corners, saw it out with a jigsaw and the little rest with a file by hand.
Best regards
Hello,
~zATBz~ said:
I have the same unit in my car. Installed it a few days back. So it's fairly new but working good with no modifications.
For a backup camera. I retained the factory installed one "Mitsubishi" And it seems to be working great with no issues so far. Other then I need to be able to adjust the grid lines that are being produced by the headunits software. :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Forester_Diesel_CVT said:
Hello,
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice work!
Did you communicate the root cause back to Dasaita so they can address it in future software/hardware revisions?
Forester_Diesel_CVT said:
Hello,
......i think it depends to the dashboard and how the heatingsystem is installed.
And the system updates do the rest - the stock system did not caused so much heat, every update it's getting worse....
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes sense. Hotter location would equate to more problems. My unit is installed just below the air conditioning vents. Will be interesting to see what happens in the winter time when hot air comes through the vents vs cold.
How did you manage to reprogram the grid lines cos I installed the same unit on my Mitsubishi, but grid lines are missing .
~zATBz~ said:
This makes sense. Hotter location would equate to more problems. My unit is installed just below the air conditioning vents. Will be interesting to see what happens in the winter time when hot air comes through the vents vs cold.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cabin temp will be about the same at a guess.
marchnz said:
Cabin temp will be about the same at a guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....yes, but not under the dashboard!
The air can not circulate under the dashboard, that's the reason why my passive heatsink didn't worked!
The Subaru HU has a fan too - think they did the same conclusion.
Now with the fan i drove 400Km highway today at 29°C outsidetemp and soc & gpu are at 35°C.
On normal days without AC they are about 30°C.
Fan is always running!
Best regards
simplyshrey said:
How did you manage to reprogram the grid lines cos I installed the same unit on my Mitsubishi, but grid lines are missing .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually still working on grid lines. the newest rom gives you 4 options for grid lines inside settings/car settings/extra settings/show grid ruler. The lines work but I'd like to customize them and make them perfect. They are just a picture file. Figure I'll make a custom lines. Once I get some time.
Hello,
......take a look - standing one hour in trafficjam on highway at 29°C outsidetemp.
DAB+, Navigation, Blockada, CPU-Z and Netflix running
Best regards
Great job! I might try this. Stupid question. Should the fan blow down on the chip/heat sink or draw air up away from it, thanks
Hello,
.......the fan blows to the heatsink.
Between the fan and cover i have a gap about 1mm to prevent noise,
best regards
Hello, did you install the heatsink or is it came from the factory?
New guy 123 said:
Great job! I might try this. Stupid question. Should the fan blow down on the chip/heat sink or draw air up away from it, thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All that matters is airflow.
Did you screw the fan into the heat sink?
Hi everyone!
I've been using an Xtrons TE103ap which is basically a MTCD/E PX5 unit. It operates off of a swivel 10.1 inch screen.
I've been having intermittent issues over the last 1 year where the screen would be unresponsive when the swivel is set to certain angles, so I assumed it was an issue with the connection. It runs off a generic 40 pin ribbon (the kind you find off floppy drives). I replaced it with a new cable and the problem went away for a while.
Every now and then, it would be unresponsive to touch requiring a complete reboot to get working again.
As of 3 days ago, the touch response started becoming laggy, ie. after touching a certain point, it would take about 1 second to respond. No amount of jiggling or wire switching fixed the issue.
I have done a complete teardown of the screen module and i've noticed that the digitizer ribbon is separate from the touch panel's ribbon. All contact points seem to be working and it doesn't seem to be a cable issue.
Assuming it were a digitizer issue, the touch panel's controls would still work right?
The last 3 days, i've been trying everything from going from Android 8 to Android 10, no fortune. I did try several MCU's and one particular MCU got the screen working for a while, long enough for me to get into factory settings and do a configuration. On reboot, i lost all touch functions again...
As of now, i'm perplexed as to whether it is a hardware issue or possibly software issue. Hoping anyone could shed some light.
Thanks !