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So I was trying to change my son's Fire 2 over to the new Kit Kat OS, and as I was downloading the necessary files to my computer, I thought I would wipe everything, since he had managed to pretty much fill it with junk, (he's 8). I have TWRP, (2.3.3.0) installed, and used that to wipe everything, including the internal storage and the format data wipe. I have done this with my Fire 1 with no issues, but this time I ran into a problem. TWRP works fine, but now windows won't recognize the tablet. When I go to mount the usb storage to copy the os files over, windows 7 cant load the device drives, and in my device manager it shows the Amazon Kindle fire 2 with the yellow exclamation mark next to it, saying that the drivers for this device are not installed. I have the SDK installed, and I have gone through and re installed the device drivers several times, and also uninstalled the kindle from the device list in manager. Nothing is working. I have attempted fastboot, but when I do try, it gets stuck at the "press the button menu" for TWRP, and after running the fastboot -i 0x1949 getvar product command, it tells me it sees an Otter2-Prod-04.
Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions on how I can get into the usb storage so I can load the OS info? Thanks for any help.
Dead?
Well, I rebooted from TWRP and it just went black. No light when the cable is plugged in, (factory cable), no twenty second reset working, nothing. IS it safe to assume I now have a pretty paperweight, and I should be looking into getting my son another tablet?
xanthian23 said:
Well, I rebooted from TWRP and it just went black. No light when the cable is plugged in, (factory cable), no twenty second reset working, nothing. IS it safe to assume I now have a pretty paperweight, and I should be looking into getting my son another tablet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Leave it on the charger overnight. Keep trying 20 second reboot. If you can get back into recovery you can adb sideload a rom into the device.
You've never been able to USB Mount this device from recovery.
Good luck. No reason it should be bricked....
How did you try to get into fast boot? You need a fastboot cable. This device is NOTHING LIKE the kf1.
Edit: also need to be sure exactly which kf2 you have.
--》Sent from my mind to your screen
mindmajick said:
Leave it on the charger overnight. Keep trying 20 second reboot. If you can get back into recovery you can adb sideload a rom into the device.
You've never been able to USB Mount this device from recovery.
Good luck. No reason it should be bricked....
How did you try to get into fast boot? You need a fastboot cable. This device is NOTHING LIKE the kf1.
Edit: also need to be sure exactly which kf2 you have.
--》Sent from my mind to your screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the standard cheap Kf2, no HD, just the upgrade from the first from last year, (2012), they were selling around Christmas last year. I have tried getting it to start back up, but with no success. I don't even understand why it shut down like that. I hadn't done anything to it other than reboot, which I had done successfully several times before. As for the fastboot, I may be incorrect. I ran the adb command: fastboot -i 0x1949 getvar product in CMD, and then plugged the kindle in and booted up. It showed it was an otter4 or something like that, which I thought meant it was in fastboot. At that time I was using my S4 usb cable. I'm sure I can sort out ho to sideload a rom via adb if I can ever get it started back up again. I had thought about opening it up and unplugging the battery and then re-plugging it back it to try to reset it, but I doubt it will help. Would getting a fastboot cable possibly make it start back up? If anyone has any suggestions on how I can get this thing started up again I would greatly appreciate it. I fell like crap for bricking my kids kindle, he's 8, so it's really important to him. It'll take me several months to save up to buy another one, so if I can get it running again, that would be awesome.
Here's a bit of an oddity, and maybe this spells some hope for me yet. So I plug the KF2 into the computer with the factory cable, hold down the power button for twenty seconds, let go, and then hit the power button again, for about a second, and windows makes the usb device plugged in sound, followed by a usb rejected or not recognized sound. It repeats this over and over for about thirty seconds or so and then stops. So there is something going on with the kindle, and its not flat out dead, or at least it seems. Is this a good sign? Does this help anyone to figure out what I might need to do?
So just to be sure that I was using a fastboot cable, even though I believe that my samsung s4 cable is fastboot capable, and I'm pretty sure I am using the factory cable, (it's not marked so I can't be 100% sure), I built my own fastboot cable, via instructions on how to do so on xda. (found HERE) It's doing the same thing with windows making the usb device inserted / recognized sound, followed by the usb device error sound. I'm guessing that this is a bad thing, am I correct?
One more bit of information to add to the list. I attempted to do the fastboot mode again,and decided to watch my device manager. Whenever windows chimes off that it detects a usb device, something called OMAP 4430 pops up for about a second before disappearing when the error sound comes on. I'm going to try and get a driver for that, just to see what happens. Maybe it'll help. I doubt it, but you never know until you try...
This just keeps getting weirder and weirder. So I installed the omap driver for windows and android, and now windows recognizes the device, but only for about a second. It just keeps cycling through the usb connected sound, recognizing the omap device, and then the usb disconnected sound, as though the device were being plugged in and then unplugged about every second for roughly thirty seconds. I'm starting to think there is something seriously wrong, which bites. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
That's a hard brick' we can't use the usboot/aboot utility to fix the device like you can on other omap devices because we need a certain signed file to fix the boot loader. Only amazon has that file and they aren't giving it out. There is a way to recover your device from a hard brick but you need to be good with a soldering iron and have a USB sdcard reader, the kind that kinda is like a flashdrive rather than the multi type readers and some really small wire. Kurohyou wrote a tutorial on how to fix it in the kf2 dev section, not sure if he ever added the part in on how to reflash the boot loader from Linux, but if you take this route and try to fix it I wouldn't mind helping.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
stunts513 said:
That's a hard brick' we can't use the usboot/aboot utility to fix the device like you can on other omap devices because we need a certain signed file to fix the boot loader. Only amazon has that file and they aren't giving it out. There is a way to recover your device from a hard brick but you need to be good with a soldering iron and have a USB sdcard reader, the kind that kinda is like a flashdrive rather than the multi type readers and some really small wire. Kurohyou wrote a tutorial on how to fix it in the kf2 dev section, not sure if he ever added the part in on how to reflash the boot loader from Linux, but if you take this route and try to fix it I wouldn't mind helping.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I have both a tf - micro sd card usb card reader, and a full sd card usb card reader. I'll have to go digging for them in the morning, but I think I can find them. I'm also really good with a soldering iron, (used to be a vcr / tv repair technician), It took me roughly two minutes to do the homemade factory cable. So I am game, especially since at this point I really have nothing to loose by trying. Would you mind posting a link to where the tutorial is? I'm going to go looking for it, but just in case I can't find it, a link would help. And thank you so much for this suggestion!
OK, I found the tutorial on how to wire everything up and what's needed. I'll have to go get some small wire and a better tip for my iron, but aside form that, the wiring and soldering seems simple enough. My problem is going to be dealing with linux. I know Windows backwards and forwards, but I have a pretty limited knowledge of linux, aside from a few things we did in school to cover general PC repair. I can get it up an running, which I will do tomorrow, but I may need some help sorting out what to do with it once I have the board lined up and ready to roll, which will have to wait till next week when I get back from a work trip. Do you know if kurohyou offers repairs? If it's not too expensive, I would be willing to pay for the fix.
He might repair it, he just made a solderless repair tool to repair them. But like I said I'm more than willing to help with the Linux side, I'm a PC tech myself and use Linux primarily, you can basically burn an ubuntu live CD or put it on a USB stick and boot into the entire os without having to install it, from there's its as simple as plugging the device into the PC, and seeing what device path it assigned to the kindle's emmc, and running a dd command to flash the boot loader back onto the device.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
stunts513 said:
... you can basically burn an ubuntu live CD or put it on a USB stick and boot into the entire os without having to install it, from there's its as simple as plugging the device into the PC, and seeing what device path it assigned to the kindle's emmc, and running a dd command to flash the boot loader back onto the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've ran a live usb version of unbuntu a few times, and in the past I have had the full version on my system, but I rarely ever used it, so I got rid of it. I have an extra 600 gig's of space just sitting around on my laptop, so I will install a full version, and get off my lazy rear and start learning linux. This should be a good first lesson. I can't do any of this until next week though, so I will be pm'ing you once I've gotten everythig hooked up and ready to go. Thanks again for the help.
I had a question about the repair though. I went through the discussion, and I may have just missed it, but did he ever figure out how to get the OS up and running? From what I could tell, he was still working on it, and hadn't managed to get a working rom loaded. I probably just either missed it, or didn't understand one of the post's.
My rooted+bootloader unlocked LG Nexus 5x was not recognised by adb or fastboot in either Arch Linux or Windows (the latter with the proper drivers installed and the former with udev rules properly established). The device will also not show up in Windows' device manager or lsusb and the like in Arch. This was not too much of a problem until I accidentally deleted my SystemUI app from a new ROM.
The moment I realised what I had done I tried to reinstall from TitaniumBackup's restore function. That failed. I placed another copy of the apk within a folder in priv-app, assuming that I'd have no problems. I was very wrong.
On the next boot my SystemUI began crashing. My attempt to boot into TWRP required a password, which has never been the case before. I cancelled and tried to allow TWRP write access to /system. I then wiped data, cache, and dalvik during a factory reset. No luck.
Now it does not appear that my internal storage or system partitions are mounting properly, and I can't access the backup files on the sdcard. I can't sideload anything or adb push.
On a scale from one to screwed, how bad is my situation?
Not. If you have tried EVERYTHING else, download WugFresh tool kit, get into bootloader connect the USB and click the box under "unroot and return to stock" that states "device in bootloop" ,click on "unroot and return to stock" and follow the instructions. Make sure you manually select which device you are using first tho.
Edit: the tool kit has the option to install the ADB drivers, do that first (just in case). shouldnt have a problem pushing to ADB if you only messed with system files.
Boot up a live version of Linux Mint. You don't have to fart around with udev rules and adb and fastboot are packaged up and in the repos. You will have a functioning system in no time.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Hehe, I was using a third party cable. Jiggled it around a bit and "adb devices" eventually returned the device's information. I just had to hold down the cable and I was able to start flashing. I'll buy a good cable soon (or wait and buy a laptop with Type C as I've been planning so that I can use the cable that came with the device).
PiArc said:
Hehe, I was using a third party cable. Jiggled it around a bit and "adb devices" eventually returned the device's information. I just had to hold down the cable and I was able to start flashing. I'll buy a good cable soon (or wait and buy a laptop with Type C as I've been planning so that I can use the cable that came with the device).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you got it working. Test each side of the cables. Mine work better on one side than the other. The one side needs to be held in like you described but simply flipping the cable around it has a sold connection.
Hi everyone!
I'm trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 to work with Windows 10.
However, when I plug it in I get an error saying that the device is not recognized. It doesn't even show up properly at Device Manager.
I can not update or change the driver. It's driving me kind of insane. There's no OS on my tablet so I need a direct USB connection to send files.
Has anyone worked out a fix for this issue?
Nexus device drivers for windows 10
Did you download the google device drivers for Nexus devices? Just do a search for Nexus Device Drivers in your search engine.
Is your bootloader unlocked and do you have a custom rom installed? This will allow you to accomplish both tasks with a single click. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1766475
Hope this helps.
Do not forget to give thanks if it works.
gn
ev1lchris said:
Hi everyone!
I'm trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 to work with Windows 10.
However, when I plug it in I get an error saying that the device is not recognized. It doesn't even show up properly at Device Manager.
I can not update or change the driver. It's driving me kind of insane. There's no OS on my tablet so I need a direct USB connection to send files.
Has anyone worked out a fix for this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
georgenazar said:
Did you download the google device drivers for Nexus devices? Just do a search for Nexus Device Drivers in your search engine.
Is your bootloader unlocked and do you have a custom rom installed? This will allow you to accomplish both tasks with a single click. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1766475
Hope this helps.
Do not forget to give thanks if it works.
gn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I did. I also downloaded them from Skipsofts Toolkit. For some reason Windows does not want to use them.
Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
If u click on the link in my first reply it will take u to a different toolkit specifically for Nexus devices.
Are you using a USB 2 or USB 3 port? I used to have problems when I used a USB 3 port.
I know this is obvious but I thought I should mention it, did u uninstall the ADB drivers and re-install the google nexus drivers?
Good luck again.
gn
ev1lchris said:
Yes, I did. I also downloaded them from Skipsofts Toolkit. For some reason Windows does not want to use them.
Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wugs Toolkit did not work.
I'm going to try a Windows 7 USB flash drive. Hopefully it's more of a Windows 10 driver thing than USB 3.0.
Windows 7 didn't work. Going to try Ubuntu Live USB.
This is really getting on my nerves.
Is there an adapter I can get that will change USB3 to USB2?
Tried the whole Linux thing. Didn't work. My Zenfone however works like a charm.
I give up.
Rest in Peace Nexus 7 2013
ev1lchris said:
I give up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hold on, "only the white light at the bottom turns on" - is it still the case?
If no, please post VID/PID descriptor from Device Manager in Windows or 'lsusb' in Linux.
If yes, no point of struggling with USB as it will be either:
VID_05C6&PID_9008
VID_0000&PID_0000
and there is nothing you can do with it anyway.
The white light at the bottom, in this context, usually indicates a faulty battery and no recharge can fix it. I remember that you posted a few times about decreased SOT, which eventually leads to completely dead battery. You can confirm it if you disconnect the charger, take the N7's back off and measure voltage between the battery plug's pin #1 and #6. If it is below 1V, then there is no doubt the battery is faulty. Some try to 'kick start' it but it is a waste of time, just replace it.
My battery is fine. It's new and holds a charge.
The problem is neither Windows or Linux want to recognize it to push files to it.
At least I can watch the pretty Google boot sequence.
Is it possible I damaged something when replacing the battery?
ev1lchris said:
Is it possible I damaged something when replacing the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.
While reading about this problem on three threads already I noticed that you only try to connect to TWRP on ADB/MTP, which may be damaged for some reason. Let's try a completely different USB connection protocol:
boot the Nexus in fastboot mode (when off press power+vol.dn)
connect it to your PC
on PC run: fastboot getvar all
You can run the fastboot app from Windows or Linux...
on Windows install NRT and run it from "C:\Program Files (x86)\WugFresh Development\Nexus Root Toolkit\data" folder
or run it without installation from live Linux
If you are successful in getting normal output from "fastboot getvar all", proceed to OS reflash.
If not, post USB VID/PID while in fastboot connection.
Thanks, I'll try this. However, Windows can not detect the Nexus 7 even when in the Bootloader.
ev1lchris said:
Thanks, I'll try this. However, Windows can not detect the Nexus 7 even when in the Bootloader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, but I still need the USB descriptor of a failed connection in fastboot/bootloader mode...
on Windows, run UsbTreeView and post 'File - Save full report'
on Linux post the output of 'lsusb'
Well, perhaps something isn't right after the battery replacement after all
The wide silver ribbon cable which goes across the battery, connects USB data lines from the daughterboard to motherboard and it might be partially disconnected. Please try to re-seat and re-lock it on both ends.
:highfive:
k23m said:
No worries, but I still need the USB descriptor of a failed connection in fastboot/bootloader mode...
on Windows, run UsbTreeView and post 'File - Save full report'
on Linux post the output of 'lsusb'
Well, perhaps something isn't right after the battery replacement after all
The wide silver ribbon cable which goes across the battery, connects USB data lines from the daughterboard to motherboard and it might be partially disconnected. Please try to re-seat and re-lock it on both ends.
:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may have accidentally damaged the silver ribbon when installing the battery. Some of the ends are messed up.
As for the VID and PID I took a screenshot. I can still run USB tree.
ev1lchris said:
I think I may have accidentally damaged the silver ribbon when installing the battery. Some of the ends are messed up.
As for the VID and PID I took a screenshot. I can still run USB tree.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need, I see VID_0000 which indicates a hardware issue. If the cable can not be fixed, here is another one, but please check this video before replacement.
Cheers
:good:
When taking out the cable the first time I think I damaged some of the connectors.
Should be an easy fix.
k23m said:
No need, I see VID_0000 which indicates a hardware issue. If the cable can not be fixed, here is another one, but please check this video before replacement.
Cheers
:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news: The cable is installed, the PC can detect the Nexus 7, the Stock seems to have installed successfully.
BAD NEWS: THE TOUCHSCREEN IS NOT WORKING
What is going on? I hope this is a software issue?
ev1lchris said:
Good news: The cable is installed, the PC can detect the Nexus 7, the Stock seems to have installed successfully.
BAD NEWS: THE TOUCHSCREEN IS NOT WORKING
What is going on? I hope this is a software issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good and bad news
Run TWRP3 and check if touchscreen works there.
If not, I think we're not done with the cable yet as it also connects touch to the motherboard.
I've watched some YouTube. I've deciphered that the wide cable is data and the narrow one touchscreen.
I've tried unplugging and plugging both. No luck there. I notice the tablet heats up sometimes too.
When installing I noticed a small plume of smoke. I hope nothing happened.
When it boots into the OS there is a crossed out square on the upper right hand corner now.
Any suggestions?
I put in the cable I kind of damaged back into the Nexus 7. Now it gets detected and the touchscreen works. I have no clue what happened here but it seems fixed.
THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP. Much appreciation and love to the XDA community!
Basically I want to downgrade from rbox's pre-rooted version 5.2.7.2_r1 back to 5.2.6.3_r1.
I use ADB via Windows 10 with no problems, I've access to SU, FireTV is rooted and TWRP 3.0.0.7 is installed.
In the past I would just boot into TWRP recovery and select any of rbox' pre-rooted rom and hit install/upgrade and all went well since 2016.
This is the first time trying to downgrade, TWRP recovery went well 5.2.6.3_r1 got installed, but no way to login into my Amazon A/C (kept saying login/password combinations not correct, but they were 100% correct).
One thing interesting is before I could see my bootloader as fully unlocked as "[email protected]", but now I see its only partial unlocked ([email protected])?
Update:
It seems like I do have rooo#bueller? from this picture after typing adb shell and su?
Any help will be much appreciated!
In regards to your original post on the bueller thread - have you tried re-enabling updates? A few other members here found that disabling updates on their sloane (see here) stopped them from using particular apps on 5.2.7.2 until they re-enabled updates, allowed the Fire TV to download updated apk files & then disabled them again
If that doesn't work: I had a Fire TV recently that I thought it was blacklisted by Amazon (wouldn't log in with the correct details), but turns out it was just never registered as a AFTV on their end & was being refused a connection. This obviously won't be your case, but something similar could be happening, so I would suggest you remove the device from your account (here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hz/mycd/myx#/home/devices/1) & then attempt to log in again - if this doesn't work, maybe talk to Amazon via their live chat, ask them to register your device to your account manually (they'll happily do it) & attempt login again after a hour or two (that worked for me).
edit: I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8 due to changes within the partitions, therefore, if you do so, you essentially brick your device after reboot as the prerooted zip only flashes boot/preloader/LK, then at boot, the rpmb checks to see if all those files match & when they don't, sends the device into a bootloop. If this was a Fire TV 2, you'd be in luck, but unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.
DanielF50 said:
I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
DanielF50 said:
there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
DanielF50 said:
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.[/B]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Hi Daniel, thanks for taking the time to write.
Yes my bootloader is fully unlocked, and my unit is rooted with TWRP installed.
Hi Sus_i, where are you at? If you can try the "hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron)" thing on my FireTV, I will compensate you for your time and ship the unit to you (I'm near the border, so US/CAN addresses are fine with me).
Ok, this is what happened in my case:
My FireTV 1 background - bought directly from Amazon, rooted back in 2015/2016, bootloader fully unlocked and TWRP installed in 2017.
1) Was running on rbox's pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1
2) Updated to rbox's 5.2.7.2_r1 and discovered that upon resuming/waking up from sleep the unit always return to the Home page instead of whatever page/Tab you left it as in 5.2.6.3_r1, also Alexa and few other APPS were automatically installed in 5.2.7.2_r1.
I only use 4 APPS on my FireTV, an APK from my IPTV (90 %), VLC to watch videos from my own local Network (5%), CX_File Explorer to move/transfer files (3%) and NewPipe (alternative to YouTube) (2%).
rbox’s pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1 is perfect for my needs above, as I NEVER need to see the Amazon Home screen or any ads. Only the 1st time after a power off/on that I would ever see the Home page and from there on I would navigate to the “Settings” Tab – “Applications” Tab – “Manage Applications” and I only see a few pre-installed APPS from Amazon and my 4 APPS above and going to sleep mode and waking up sleep mode always stays in the “Manage Applications” Tab and NOT Amazon Home page as in 5.2.7.2_r1.
3) Flashing back from 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1/5.2.6.9_r1 to no avail because I would always get an error stating Login ID/password combinations were in errors (Login ID/password were 100% dead correct), also the Developer Options would also no longer showing under My Device/My FireTV Tab. Amazon FireTV support would be quick to add the FireTV under my profile (because they could see I bought it directly from them back in 2014 and they also could see my serial numbers and all along I was the only one registered for this unit), but still no go, so I tried to de-register/re-register again during all the testing and Amazon must had added the FireTV to my profile at least 10 times and in the end it escalated to the point they credited my account $25.00 (this is usually the price of the FireTV Stick 4K during sales/promotions) and also at the same time sent out a FireTV Stick 4K to me FOC.
I’m not a FireTV expert, but just an ordinary user with some sys/programming backgrounds during my early years. I reckon Amazon must had implemented some sort of hard coded checks either on their side (registration) or in the firmware since 5.2.6.3_r1.
4) So now my unit is flashed with 5.2.6.3_r1 and couldn’t get passed the registration screen, what do I do? I re-flash it to 5.2.7.2_r1 and bingo, everything is back to normal again and don’t even need to register the unit. (For testing purposes, I removed my A/C from the unit and re-register again and this time Login ID/password got no errors).
5) Thinking that back from Windows 98SE/2000/XP Pro/W7 Pro and now Windows 10 Pro, no matter what kind of messed I created, I would just format the drive/write zeros and re-image (Ghost image Back-ups) and everything would be normal again. My fireTV is rooted, bootloader is fully unlocked and TWRP installed, I told myself what’s there to afraid of , so I tried to re-flash 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1 and it would always back to the registration error and now double icons under settings, lol.
6) I suspect during one of the re-flash I made a mistake of after clearing/wipe Cache/Dalvik, instead of the default reboot, I ESC back out and redo the install/re-flash thinking that might get rids of all the leftovers that cause the double icons under Settings.
7) Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself. I like to think that the motherboard or the power unit are still alive, just that the software part of it got messed up by ME big time!
Matt_7 said:
Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Sus_i said:
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good information to know, thanks Sus_i :good:
Reading Matt's response, it looks hopeful that he should be able to fastboot into the device to recover it then.
Sus_i said:
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Update:
OK, dfound out I already have fastboot in my platform-tools folder,
From AFTNews:
Enter the command:
fastboot devices
If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.
Download the latest version of ClockworkMod custom recovery from AFTVnews.com/recovery
Rename the file you just downloaded to “recovery.img”
Enter the command:
fastboot flash recovery recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Enter the command:
fastboot boot recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Your Fire TV should now boot into ClockworkMod recovery. Proceed to follow the steps in the next section below labeled “Resetting with Recovery Mode”.
Resetting with Recovery Mode
If you can successfully enter ClockworkMod recovery, then follow the below steps to reset your Fire TV, regardless of what state it is in and what has been done to it. You can also follow these steps if, for example, you want to update your ROM but aren’t sure if you’ve unlocked your bootloader or aren’t sure if you’ve installed the boot menu.
[OPTIONAL] From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe data/factory reset”. This will delete all of your settings and user data. It is an optional step, but is recommended.
From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe cache partition”.
Follow my guide to install pre-rooted Stock ROM version 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated. Note, you are NOT installing the latest pre-rooted ROM on purpose. Do NOT skip ahead and install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Restart your Fire TV. You should be able to boot normally.
Follow my guide to install BusyBox.
Follow my guide to unlock your bootloader.
Follow my guide to install the boot menu.
Follow my guide to install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Matt_7 said:
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, bundled with android-sdk so runs just like you'd use adb, but obviously has a different purpose/commands - I should think there would be info on the full bootloader unlock thread on how to use it to recover from a bootloop using fastboot?
Matt_7 said:
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Sus_i said:
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Matt_7 said:
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would try to boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img and recovery.img
Update 3:
Gosh, I got it to the point of checking for updates and unplugged the internet cable hoping to issue via adb to block OTA, and the FireTV detected no internet connection and asked to unplug the power for a few minutes and I did that, but now no whatsoever light on the FIreTV itself, don't tell me its now dead not because I bricked it the other day, but because of the power unit?
Tested the power adapter with a multimeter, got 6.18V (6.25 is printed on the power adapter), since 6.18V is close to 6.25V, its not the power adapter right?
Update 2:
OK, figured out I could remove the USB A to A cable and use the USB port on the FireTV to connect my Logitech K400 ! (see, I'm not a very smart person!)
- I deleted "Data"
- Tried to wipe cache and got a message "No OS installed"
- No choice but to select install option and install 5.2.7.2_r1
- Now at least I'm seeing the Colourful Amazon logo again, and now its doing the "Optimizing system storage and applications...", wish me luck!
Update 1:
Just received my USB A to A Male to Male (LOL) cable today.
Don't know to jump for joy or cry!
- When I typed "fastbbot devices", I got exactly from "AFTNews - If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.", I got the screen showing me my device/serial number and the word fastboot, so I think its working!
- I then typed "fastboot boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img" and the white Amazon logo was gone I was back in TWRP screen, but I couldn't do anything, the USB port is already used by the USB A to A cable (USB splitter couldn't work either), I see the mouse pointer, but how to move it to reboot/wipe/install/advance etc?
Mayday, help!
Matt_7 said:
Update 1:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 2:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 3:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pull all the plugs from the box + tv and try again...
6.xx v seems ok. Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Sus_i said:
: Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Matt_7 said:
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
Matt_7 said:
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
Matt_7 said:
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Sus_i said:
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try to open up the FireTV.
No light/LED when plugging only the power adapter to the FIreTV, already tried different power outlets throughout the house
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Thanks again.
Matt_7 said:
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will forget about that!
Once I got the FireTV opened, will take some pixs and report back!
OK, here are the pixs.
Now that I look at the Multimeter, I'm not sure I'm using it correctly. Bought this few years ago (just in case I need to test my car's battery).
AT the bottom of the multimeter, there are 3 holes, one red on each side and black hole in the center, which two am I supposed to use?
I tested the power adapter again with multimeter using the center black and red on the right, and I'm reading 4.2V?
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would it be possible just by looking at the board if its kaput?
So instead of spamming the forums, I thought I would just make on consolidated post asking for help
Background: I have suffered from a visual disability for over 20 years. There are many facets to it but the one that is relevant here is that some displays trigger instant eye strain and migraines when I view them. I have been to over 27 specialists in 7 states over 2 decades and no one has been able to find out exactly what us causing it. All we know is the issue isn't really caused by the display, but what is driving the display, and seem to be related to colors somehow.
Anyway, I ordered a 4k Fire Stick on July 15, 2019. SO looking at https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...is-prerooted-stock-images-6-2-8-0_r1.3983091/, it looks like my Fire Stick came with OS 6.2.6.5_r1. I do not recall it ever asking for updates before this, so I do not know if it ever updated to 6.2.7.7_r1 (which is the last update prior to the UI update). I would like to flash OS 6.2.6.5_r1 which is the closest ROM I can find to what was on the stick when I first bought it and it worked.
I also have an unopened 4k Fire Stick I purchased on Nov 29, 2019. This is still sitting new in the box and have never been opened or plugged into anything.
So here is where my questions start
General Questions
1. Are the sticks I ordered the "mantis" one? So I would look for "mantis" instructions for working with it? Can someone provide a stock Mantis 6.2.6.5 ROM, I really don't care too much about being rooted honestly.
Questions for upgraded stick (that I cannot use right now due to disability)
1. Is there any hope for this device? As I understand it there is an eFuse blown during the 6.8 upgrade preventing downgrades.
2. Is there any work going on that will allow that blown eFuse to be bypassed (like a modified 6.2.6.x ROM that doesn't check the eFuse status)?
Questions for unopened stick
1. Is there any way to block the updates while setting up the device (prevent auto update)?
- 1a: I know there is a "BlockUpdate.apk" that can be sideloaded and run, but to do that I would need to have the device up and running to enable ADB Debugging and connect to the device, so I would have had to go though the initial setup, which will update the device, making it to late to install the APK and block the update
- 1b: I know you can also install Remote ADB Shell on the stick and use the PM disable user commands to block OTA updates, but again, you can't get to the point where you can turn on ADB Debugging and install those apps before going though the initial setup, which will update the device, making it to late to block the updates
2. I saw there were some methods where people were using their routers to block access to certain Amazon and/or akamai servers so you could activate the stick but the update check would fail, but all those guides seem to be for Fire TV's, not Fire Sticks, and are all from 2016-ish. Do these still work?
Questions for Rooting device
1. I saw the aluminum foil trick, but all the guides I see seem to start after a point where the device has been activated, which would have forced the update and would be to late for me. Can you root BEFORE the device is activated?
2. How do you connect a Fire Stick to a PC to allow the Linux scripts to see it and root it? I can't connect to the TV and then to my wifi, cause once it connects to wifi, it auto updates, and we're stuck again.
So can anyone help me out? My end goal is to have my upgraded Fire Stick downgraded to the 6.2.6.5 version and will NEVER install a system update, and/or have my unopened FireStick activated and working and NEVER install an update. I don't really care about any enhanced "debloating" or anything after that.
Many thanks up front.
Yes, you can try the unlock infront of the setup, that is the way to go.
But I would test your ruined stick first, it doesn't harm anything... maybe big A. messed the efuse burning up, who knows. Short the stick and in case you can't see 'phone' mode in lsusb, the efuse is burned as expected.
Sus_i said:
Yes, you can try the unlock infront of the setup, that is the way to go.
But I would test your ruined stick first, it doesn't harm anything... maybe big A. messed the efuse burning up, who knows. Short the stick and in case you can't see 'phone' mode in lsusb, the efuse is burned as expected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, how would I unlock the device and block the updates without having to go through through Fire Stick setup (which would force the update)
As I understand it, I could
1 - Boot up the modified Linux iso in a VM
2 - Open the Fire Stick and use the aluminum foil to short it
At that point, how do I connect the Fire Stick to my PC? If I plug it into my TV and connect it to my network, it's going to auto update.
Once the above quesiton is answered, I could then run the scripts and get root and get twrp via the scripts in the Linux iso. But at that point, what would I flash in TWRP to block the OTA updates? I would not be anle to get to any point that allows me to enable ADB debugging without going through the Fire Stick setup, which would force the OTA updates
The thing is really easy.
Older 4k sticks are vulnerable to the current kamakiri exploit, and newer sticks are not.
Amaz. fixed with 6.2.8.0 the bootrom feature used in kamakiri, so any kamakiri vulnerable stick gets fixed with that update... Only way to prevent this fix, is to unlock it first, then the OTA updates can't harm anything.
The unlock protects them. In this case the update is fine...
If you want to try the unlock, you need to follow the kamakiri OP.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
You need the usb cable and some tinfoil.
No one knows if your stick is vulnerable or not.
You may check this in a terminal with the lsusb command, while shorted (see the unlock OP for details).
If you can keep the stick with the short in 'phone' mode (look in lsusb a few times instead of running the bootrom-step), you're lucky and the unlock may work.
Sus_i said:
The thing is really easy.
Older 4k sticks are vulnerable to the current kamakiri exploit, and newer sticks are not.
Amaz. fixed with 6.2.8.0 the bootrom feature used in kamakiri, so any kamakiri vulnerable stick gets fixed with that update... Only way to prevent this fix, is to unlock it first, then the OTA updates can't harm anything.
The unlock protects them. In this case the update is fine...
If you want to try the unlock, you need to follow the kamakiri OP.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
You need the usb cable and some tinfoil.
No one knows if your stick is vulnerable or not.
You may check this in a terminal with the lsusb command, while shorted (see the unlock OP for details).
If you can keep the stick with the short in 'phone' mode (look in lsusb a few times instead of running the bootrom-step), you're lucky and the unlock may work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought even if you were unlocked, once you were auto updated, the eFuse is blown and you can't downgrade?
FOr the old Fire Stick (that has never been upgraded so it should be fine) once I unlock the device and flash TWRP, what would I flash to prevent the OTA update from taking place during the setup of the device?
emkorial said:
I thought even if you were unlocked, once you were auto updated, the eFuse is blown and you can't downgrade?
FOr the old Fire Stick (that has never been upgraded so it should be fine) once I unlock the device and flash TWRP, what would I flash to prevent the OTA update from taking place during the setup of the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, unlocked = safe.
There isn't a reason to mess with the initial update, as long as you've done the unlock successfully and TWRP is in place. Then you can downgrade anytime later to whatever OS version, if you like.
After you did the unlock, flash magisk, do the initial setup, enable adb, you can use adb shell commands to disable the OTA updates.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I interact with TWRP if it isn't plugged into the TV?? What do you see the TWRP screen on to navigate it??
See post two and three in the unlock thread...
Most people use always TWRP commandline via ADB.
Sus_i said:
See post two and three in the unlock thread...
Most people use always TWRP commandline via ADB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I am still very confused. If I have the Fire Stick only connected to my computer via USB cabl, there will be no Fire Stick display anywhere. So I will be unable to interact with TWRP. But step 1 of post 2 says I can use an OTG mouse to interact with TWRP. How can you use a mouse when the Stick isn't plugged in to a TV?? How do you even boot into TWRP when the stick isn't plugged in?
The second point says use a command line and use ADB, but I thought you need to have ADB permissions set on the device to allow that to work, and you can't get to those ADB permissions without activating the device, which will update it, which defeats the whole purpose
I really appreciate the help but I am totally confused. This is so very frustrating.
You can plug the hdmi into your TV, but that wont help you to interact, because you use TWRP commands via adb. Ofc you see the commands and the TWRP txt output in the terminal window...
If the unlock is done, you can unplug the usb and use OTG + mouse, if you like. Should work too, but you need an usb hub and a storage stick too, if you like to install a ROM or Magisk or whatever. TWRP commandline is easier, you can push files via adb and then just run a adb shell twrp install command...
If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled...
Only the fireOS wants a permission, if you want to use adb.
Sus_i said:
You can plug the hdmi into your TV, but that wont help you to interact, because you use TWRP commands via adb. Ofc you see the commands and the TWRP txt output in the terminal window...
If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled...
Only the fireOS wants a permission, if you want to use adb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, that is helpful, so you are saying if I unlock the device, flash TWRP, and reboot into recovery, ADB will be enabled, there is no need to allow ADB Debugging and I can run those pm uninstall commands?
SO are you saying this is the process?
1 - Download linux iso and script to unlock
2 - boot linux iso
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - run the script and do the tinfoil thing
5 - After the script is done type "./fastboot-step.sh" which will reboot the device into TWRP. I will have no idea if this is working because there is no display for me to look at, correct?
6 - I would I guess wait a few minutes for the device to reboot since I would have no display available I would have no idea when it is done rebooting, but at some point I would type "adb devices" and my device would appear in the list?
If that is all correct, then I know I can type "adb shell" at that point to get to a shell window where I can send adb commands. Could I then execute the pm disable commands? Or do I NEED to flash a new rooted ROM before I do that? I honestly don't care at all about being rooted, I just want to disable OTA
7 - And then after that, OTA would be disabled, I can unplug the Stick from my PC, plug it into my TV for the first time, and it would let me register and not auto update during the registration process and never bug me for updates again?
Also I have seen many different variants of the actual pm disable commands required to disable OTA, can you provide the actual correct ones?
Thanks again
emkorial said:
OK, that is helpful, so you are saying if I unlock the device, flash TWRP, and reboot into recovery, ADB will be enabled, there is no need to allow ADB Debugging and I can run those pm uninstall commands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, never said something like that
You cannot run pm uninstall commands in TWRP adb...
but you can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other TWRP commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Maybe do some research, read a bit more about it. There are also some youtube guides out there.
emkorial said:
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - run the script and do the tinfoil thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to follow the unlocks OP.
You need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Take your time, follow the OP
Maybe @Bertonumber1 answers some of your other questions, I've got no time to continue for now... sry.
Sus_i said:
No, never said something like that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats exactly what you said. You said "If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled..." So which is it, will I be able to run adb shell and then run the pm commands once it boots into twrp or not?
Sus_i said:
You cannot run pm uninstall commands in TWRP adb...
but you can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other TWRP commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are saying I cannot run adb commands from TWRP, but you say I can run adb shell from twrp, which I can then run adb commands from. Which is it?
Sus_i said:
Maybe do some research, read a bit more about it. There are also some youtube guides out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read everything there is on the topic and it's very poorly documented from a step by step perspective. Can you answer the questions where you gave two opposite answers?
And the other questions no one has answers:
1 - Do I need to flash a rooted ROM before running the pm uninstall commands?
2 - Do I need Magisk installed? If so how do I install it?
I've been a remember of xda dev for years and years over many devices and I will never, ever understand how no one on this site ever seems capable of just giving simple step by step instructions and answering simple direct questions with simple direct answers.
At this point I am more confused than when I started so I feel it is still to risky to try this
Sus_i said:
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to follow the unlocks OP.
You need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get that the HDMI does not need to be hooked up. Can you answer my quesiotn about how to know when the device is rebooted if I have no display? So I just keep checking adb devices until it shows up?
Sus_i said:
Take your time, follow the OP
Maybe @Bertonumber1 answers some of your other questions, I've got no time to continue for now... sry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you just answer this, once I unlock, and reboot, if I wait and then my device shows up in adb devices, can I then run adb shell and run the pm uninstall commands?
emkorial said:
Thats exactly what you said. You said "If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled..." So which is it, will I be able to run adb shell and then run the pm commands once it boots into twrp or not?
So you are saying I cannot run adb commands from TWRP, but you say I can run adb shell from twrp, which I can then run adb commands from. Which is it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol. Its just like I said yesterday:
You can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You see, it isn't TWRP that searchs for updates
It is the fireOS that wants to keep the stick up-to-date.
If you want to disable this OTA update process inside the fireOS, you need to run the pm disable commands while fireOS is up and running.
Then I said yesterday:
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Take your time, follow the OP
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About four hours later, you ask the same question, in the same wrong order!??:
emkorial said:
I do not want to flash another firmware. I don't care about being rooted at all. I'm never going to install any silly add-on's or pointless extras. I have one goal and one goal only: Keep the OS version on the stick now and prevent it from ever updating.
Here is the process I have put together from scouring about 20 different threads and a half dozen conversations.
1 - Download the linux iso and the script to unlock the Fire Stick
2 - boot a PC with the linux iso
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - Run the script and do the tinfoil thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At this point It doesn't make sense, just to write it again and again, if you can't get the point.
emkorial said:
I've been a remember of xda dev for years and years over many devices and I will never, ever understand how no one on this site ever seems capable of just giving simple step by step instructions and answering simple direct questions with simple direct answers.
At this point I am more confused than when I started so I feel it is still to risky to try this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry to hear that.
I've just realized that I can't help you at all, so I'm going to stop answering.
Wish you good luck. Have fun.
Sus_i said:
If you want to disable this OTA update process inside the fireOS, you need to run the pm disable commands while fireOS is up and running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, that makes sense. But since Fire OS is up and running and sitting at the setup screen, USB Debugging has never been turned on. So how do you connect to the Fire Stick via ADB since you cant get to developer options?
UNLESS, does the pre rooted image you flash after unlocking have USB Debugging enabled by DEFAULT, so you DON'T have to turn it on via Settings? THAT would make this ALL make sense. Is that the case?
If so, then it would be
1 - Download iso and script
2 - boot iso and do foil trick and run script
3 - flash a rooted ROM (that will have USB Debugging enabled by default)
4 - boot Fire Stick and just sit at initial screen, don't go though setup
5 - Connect via ADB (which will work since USB Debugging is turned on by default)
6 - Run pm commands
7 - Continue with setup and OTA will be blocked
Is that correct?
Edit: I suppose I can just keep trying at each step until it works. Like this
Step 1 - Take the stick out of the box, plug it into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. If that doesn't work...
Step 2 - Unlock the device via the foil trick, plug the stick into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. If that doesn't work...
Step 3 - Flash a custom ROM, plug the stick into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. That should work as that mirrors the process in the guide.