Develop Bugs

[Q] Is there anyway to disable the proximity sensor? [SOLVED]

After a call my phone screen will be black and will not turn on until i remove the battery. On CM7/9 It is disabled but I want to try a beta ICS rom. Can anyone help?
Edit: NVM disabled it by using hardware disabler

xRegrets said:
After a call my phone screen will be black and will not turn on until i remove the battery. On CM7/9 It is disabled but I want to try a beta ICS rom. Can anyone help?
Edit: NVM disabled it by using hardware disabler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay. I got Hardware disabler now from play Store but what is the proximity Sensor called like?
Sent from my R800i using xda app-developers app
EDIT: okay it is the driver called GP2AP002A00F

DSoundso said:
Okay. I got Hardware disabler now from play Store but what is the proximity Sensor called like?
Sent from my R800i using xda app-developers app
EDIT: okay it is the driver called GP2AP002A00F
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx buddy, i finally found the driver's name for proximity censor in xplay here. Got headache for looking for the name :laugh:

It sounds like you are missing get the rubber shroud that goes around the sensor.
I installed a new digitizer, front frame, and a screen protector once and used the phone without issues for months until the screen protector accidentally peeled off. This happened while putting into my pocket so it ended up covered in lint and couldn't be reapplied. I tried other screen protectors, tape, Sharpie-colored tape, etc and nothing but digging out my old broken part and finding/transferring the rubber piece would restore it.

CZroe said:
It sounds like you are missing get the rubber shroud that goes around the sensor.
I installed a new digitizer, front frame, and a screen protector once and used the phone without issues for months until the screen protector accidentally peeled off. This happened while putting into my pocket so it ended up covered in lint and couldn't be reapplied. I tried other screen protectors, tape, Sharpie-colored tape, etc and nothing but digging out my old broken part and finding/transferring the rubber piece would restore it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you share a picture of the rubber shroud? I'm having the same problem and wan't to know exactly what to look for.

ElConedeTJ said:
Can you share a picture of the rubber shroud? I'm having the same problem and wan't to know exactly what to look for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to dig around and I don't know that I have one outside the phone. There is a rectangular proximity module near the speaker and front facing camera which has two optical components: an IR LED and photosensor. The sensor is supposed to pick up the reflection from the IR LED after it passes through the glass and hits a nearby surface.
When you take the digitizer and frame off, you will see a hole in the digitizer frame under the glass that covers that component. The rubber fits in this hole perfectly and may be stuck there or around the retangular proximity module. If you do not see the rubber in either place then it is missing.
The glass is probably supposed to have an IR filter there, just like iPhones. iPhone display/glass replacements often don't have the filter or don't filter as well, but the "Sharpie trick" is enough for those. Unlike iPhones, the "Sharpie trick" doesn't seem to help here... at least not without the rubber piece.

CZroe said:
I'll have to dig around and I don't know that I have one outside the phone. There is a rectangular proximity module near the speaker and front facing camera which has two optical components: an IR LED and photosensor. The sensor is supposed to pick up the reflection from the IR LED after it passes through the glass and hits a nearby surface.
When you take the digitizer and frame off, you will see a hole in the digitizer frame under the glass that covers that component. The rubber fits in this hole perfectly and may be stuck there or around the retangular proximity module. If you do not see the rubber in either place then it is missing.
The glass is probably supposed to have an IR filter there, just like iPhones. iPhone display/glass replacements often don't have the filter or don't filter as well, but the "Sharpie trick" is enough for those. Unlike iPhones, the "Sharpie trick" doesn't seem to help here... at least not without the rubber piece.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment (with the phone assembled) I can see completely thought the small rectangular window on the right of the camera clearly seeing 3 circular items, so I would assume that at least one of these should be covered by the rubber? if so which one(s)?

ElConedeTJ said:
At the moment (with the phone assembled) I can see completely thought the small rectangular window on the right of the camera clearly seeing 3 circular items, so I would assume that at least one of these should be covered by the rubber? if so which one(s)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's an oval opening that they both see through, but I don't think the shroud is visible from outside an assembled phone. The shroud opening is also oval and may be bisected with a wall of rubber down the middle (can't recall but I don't think so). I'm still at work and don't know if I'll be able to find my parts even when I get off but I will look.

CZroe said:
It's an oval opening that they both see through, but I don't think the shroud is visible from outside an assembled phone. The shroud opening is also oval and may be bisected with a wall of rubber down the middle (can't recall but I don't think so). I'm still at work and don't know if I'll be able to find my parts even when I get off but I will look.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct it's oval it's rectangular with rounded edges... anyway the rubber would be around this oval window? The objective of the rubber is to avoid the IR to reflect from the glass back to the Proximity sensor?

ElConedeTJ said:
You are correct it's oval it's rectangular with rounded edges... anyway the rubber would be around this oval window? The objective of the rubber is to avoid the IR to reflect from the glass back to the Proximity sensor?
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CZroe said:
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Click to collapse
Thank You for the pictures! I will open up my phone again and look for the piece and if not found I will try and make something similar, maybe using some electrical tape or something.

Wacom S-Pen sensor layer going bad or defective?

After receiving my new Note 3 a few days ago and setting it up I hadn't even really used the s-pen until yesterday. I noticed that vertically down the middle of the display from top to bottom there is about a 1/4 inch area that the s-pen 'avoids' or 'skips across' when swiping it from side to side. At first I thought maybe it was just the pen tip, so I replaced it. It's hard to explain but the effect I get when hovering it across this area is almost like a magnet avoiding another magnet, it jumps across in front of itself (the dot) and will simply not work properly in this area. Let me try to explain like this: If I were drawing a line on the screen from the bottom left corner to the top right, when I get to this 'magnetic' or 'dead' area the line no longer becomes diagonal but skips up vertically then jumps across to the other side of the dead spot, then lets me continue drawing the diagonal line to the top right corner.. Make sense?
From what I read on howstuff works, the waycom stylus and screens work with some sort of a magnetic field, which would explain why the effect i'm getting is like holding two magnets with same charges they repel, if in fact it's a defective area on the magnetic field under the glass surface.. (Howstuffworks Source)
Is it the wacom layer of the display? I am not using a magnetic case or anything else of the sort. I debated calling T-Mobile and trying to explain this to a customer service rep, and I figure it will be near impossible to get my point across. I am considering just going to the T-Mobile store down the street and trying to get a replacement.
Is anyone else experiencing this phenomenon? Test your screen with the diagonal line test and see for yourself. I'm curious as to this being a rare defect or a more common one. I'm considering putting up a video because it's so weird..
Edit: I have attached a screenshot to display the dead area that the line skips across sideways.. with the action memo, draw something 2 and sketchbook to diagram the avoidance area on the screen
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I tried recreating that and I didn't get the same results. I used both snote and sketchbook
Sent from my SM-N900T

ArcticFish said:
I tried recreating that and I didn't get the same results. I used both snote and sketchbook
Sent from my SM-N900T
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm fairly certain it's just something bad in my unit.. Thanks for making the attempt though

Yeah try to exchange. Definitely defective.
sent from my sm-9005.

Well I called and explained the problem to the tech support rep. Thankfully they were also an owner of the note 3 and were sympathetic to the issue and understood what I meant. Replacement on the way, hopefully the original post is helpful to others experiencing odd problems with their spen and display..

VoiD_Dweller said:
Well I called and explained the problem to the tech support rep. Thankfully they were also an owner of the note 3 and were sympathetic to the issue and understood what I meant. Replacement on the way, hopefully the original post is helpful to others experiencing odd problems with their spen and display..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm curious on how you replaced the tip so quickly.

dragonstalker said:
I'm curious on how you replaced the tip so quickly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tips should have been included with your note 3. You just pull out the one in your pen, and push in a new one. simple.

I've disassembled my note 4 and after putting it back together there were two strips on the screen where the spen couldn't write after *#0*# and testing wacom layer it turned out it didn't work (in those two mentioned strips).
Apparently the adhesive (the dumb manufacturing engineers at samsung) used for securing the glass in the frame prevented the gorilla glass from properly aligning on the frame. After I heated up the glass and clamped it to the frame for a few minutes the wacom layer started working again!
Apparently the layer doesn't work/has difficulty working properly when the glass is skewed/not aligned (or sth). Thought I share this in case sb else had a similar issue.

I have a nice circular spot in my screen that is a dead zone for the pen. Works fine for touch input though.

Just for future references, if you go to phone keypad and type *#0*# you will get diagnostic screen with various tests of all the hardware inside, including Viacom test and spen hovering. This may not work with some custom roms.

pete4k said:
Just for future references, if you go to phone keypad and type *#0*# you will get diagnostic screen with various tests of all the hardware inside, including Viacom test and spen hovering. This may not work with some custom roms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It didn't work with Dominion rom. Ended up getting fixed with the battery pull I did to get my new SView cover working.

Possible fix
For those who still own a Galaxy Note 3, and have either a GPS issue, or this s-pen issue, (I had both simulataneously) this video (although in another language than English) Galaxy Note 3 SM-N9005 bad GPS Signal SOLVED (can't post vid link because XDA thinks it is potential spam since this is my first comment ever here) is what I did for GPS fix. At the 5:10 mark, or so he is gently levering up those little connectors/stems. They don't make good contact. Earlier in the video he shows how something gets disconnected. That's obvious. On the other side of the phone) is similar connectors/stems. I did the same thing to those.
I put it all back together. GPS works and s-pen dead spots are gone. Also, I blew clean ports and the board with photo air blower. Forgive any wrong terminology.
Hope this helps someone.

[Q] Location of Flip Cover Hall Sensor Magnet?

I bought a flip cover off Ali Express. It's obviously not original but I really like the leather PU material.
The cover doesn't trigger Asus Cover properly in the circle window. The magnet on my cover is located in the cover and floats over the "back" button when closed. I'd like to try to fix the issue by moving the magnet. I've tried using another magnet to trigger the screen but cannot find the correct location.
Can someone with either the original case or the Nillikin Sparkle case that works tell me where the magnet location is please?

mrchet said:
I bought a flip cover off Ali Express. It's obviously not original but I really like the leather PU material.
The cover doesn't trigger Asus Cover properly in the circle window. The magnet on my cover is located in the cover and floats over the "back" button when closed. I'd like to try to fix the issue by moving the magnet. I've tried using another magnet to trigger the screen but cannot find the correct location.
Can someone with either the original case or the Nillikin Sparkle case that works tell me where the magnet location is please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Nillikin Sparkle case but Im not sure where magnet is or how to locate it.

mrchet said:
I bought a flip cover off Ali Express. It's obviously not original but I really like the leather PU material.
The cover doesn't trigger Asus Cover properly in the circle window. The magnet on my cover is located in the cover and floats over the "back" button when closed. I'd like to try to fix the issue by moving the magnet. I've tried using another magnet to trigger the screen but cannot find the correct location.
Can someone with either the original case or the Nillikin Sparkle case that works tell me where the magnet location is please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use the app CPU-Z to read the values of the magnetic sensor. Then you could experiment to locate where the sensor is by placing a magnet around the phone.
Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using XDA Free mobile app

Thanks. Discovered that the existing magnet is in the right place but just not strong enough. Tried to align it with a stronger magnet but still didn't work so ultimately cut it out and taped in a tiny rare earth magnet. Flip cover works fine now.
Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

Hi,
I have similar problem (I guess).
I bought the original flip cover from ASUS, but it doesn't lock and unlock the phone properly.
I have to shift the cover far to the left, for it to be registered.
Now I am wondering whether there is something wrong with the phone,
or with the cover...
It looks like the magnet sensor in my phone is in the very left, bottom
corner of the phone. To the left and bottom of the back button.
I also checked where the magnet in the cover is.
The spot closest to that corner is almost an inch away from it.
I am attaching a photo with a little screw that was "picked up"
by the magnet in that spot. Could someone confirm where that
magnet is in the cover that does work properly?
Thanks a lot!
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sjakub said:
Hi,
I have similar problem (I guess).
I bought the original flip cover from ASUS, but it doesn't lock and unlock the phone properly.
I have to shift the cover far to the left, for it to be registered.
Now I am wondering whether there is something wrong with the phone,
or with the cover...
It looks like the magnet sensor in my phone is in the very left, bottom
corner of the phone. To the left and bottom of the back button.
I also checked where the magnet in the cover is.
The spot closest to that corner is almost an inch away from it.
I am attaching a photo with a little screw that was "picked up"
by the magnet in that spot. Could someone confirm where that
magnet is in the cover that does work properly?
Thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have 2 covers like that and they both work fine.
Same placing of magnet. The only thing I find a problem is that it doesn't hold the cover closed so in the pocket my phone can get really hot due to the turning on and off of the screen. Now THAT'S a battery drain for you...

Thanks for the response!
So if the magnet is in the same spot, what else could be wrong?
Wrong placement of the sensor in the phone?
Also, that screw is at the edge of the magnet, not in the middle of it - which means that most of the magnet is on the left side of the screw,
closer to the middle of the cover (and the phone once the cover is closed)...

I want this flip cover for my mobile. From where i will get this flip cover?

Arshad chocksy said:
I want this flip cover for my mobile. From where i will get this flip cover?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16875001002

Hi. I have just inherited a zenfone 2, and as it was not working properly, i have had to do some repairs. I have changed:
- LCD screen and digitizer
- Screen frame
- Sim card and SD card board
- USB charger board
- loud speaker
- ear speaker
It all seems to be working great, except for the Flip cover, which now no longer works (it was working before I changed all the above parts)
Can anyone advise exactly where the flipcover sensor is located. I know it supposed to be near the back button, but is it located on the digitizer? or the screen? or on the USB board?
I can see the magnetic sensor is working on CPU-Z, however according to the readings, it seems to be located up near the top of the screen. I believe the Flip cover sensor isnt the magnetic sensor, but a hall-effect sensor down the bottom of the screen
Also, is there any app that can test if the Flip-cover sensor is working?

Scratches on the laser glass

Well, I've had the G4 for a week and I've noticed that the focus laser glass gets easily scratched. It already has various scratches, they're really hard to see, yes, but they're there and I hate them. The laser works perfectly, but I want to know if this is normal, if I've done something bad or if this has happened to you too. Is hard to change this glass? Are there any stores selling it?
Thanks in advance.

I would say as long as you don't get any deep scratches there's nothing to worry about, I have the same marks on mine (and I'm sure we're not the only ones) and all works perfectly

I've had my G4 for 5 days now. I don't have a case (just black leather back), and haven't noticed any scratches on the laser/camera/led yet.

Just cover up the laser glass with your finger and take a test shot.
I didn't notice ANY difference with or without it, at this moment with my un-professional experiment - I conclude it's a gimmick.

eitama said:
Just cover up the laser glass with your finger and take a test shot.
I didn't notice ANY difference with or without it, at this moment with my un-professional experiment - I conclude it's a gimmick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn, you're so right. I didn't notice any difference. I'm shocked.

I can smell these gimmicks from a mile away. They call it laser focus, but it emits IR. It's so small I don't it can produce enough Light to make a change.
Still, I love the G4 and it's Uber camera.
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eitama said:
I can smell these gimmicks from a mile away. They call it laser focus, but it emits IR. It's so small I don't it can produce enough Light to make a change.
Still, I love the G4 and it's Uber camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I should forget about these scratches, I think.

eitama said:
Just cover up the laser glass with your finger and take a test shot.
I didn't notice ANY difference with or without it, at this moment with my un-professional experiment - I conclude it's a gimmick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a gimmick. its a range finder. it figures out distance so the lens does not have to hunt to get focus. Its an assist to the contrast detection AF. Speeds it up. How do you know you got focus, you have to go over the hill then backtrack. This is where the hunting happens. Instead if you an get distance you just move to the right spot, fine tune, done.
They introduced with the G3 because the G2 was slow and kept hunting. There is still hunt but its less. That they continued with it in the G4 means they are satisfied with it. Not only that they went ahead and introduced a colour spectrum sensor to improve white balance.
the laser wont work through glass as it gets reflected that is when the system falls back to contrast detection.

One Twelve said:
It's not a gimmick. its a range finder. it figures out distance so the lens does not have to hunt to get focus. Its an assist to the contrast detection AF. Speeds it up. How do you know you got focus, you have to go over the hill then backtrack. This is where the hunting happens. Instead if you an get distance you just move to the right spot, fine tune, done.
They introduced with the G3 because the G2 was slow and kept hunting. There is still hunt but its less. That they continued with it in the G4 means they are satisfied with it. Not only that they went ahead and introduced a colour spectrum sensor to improve white balance.
the laser wont work through glass as it gets reflected that is when the system falls back to contrast detection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I replace this plastic?

Javinotfound said:
Can I replace this plastic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at parts it seems like a rear housing is required. Ask LG. Maybe they might have just the plastic only.
But its not necessary in your case, not yet. However camera lens is easy to replace.
if you use a diztronic case it adds a layer so that the scratches are less. Its thin and offers protection. Not the same as naked but then you don't have these sorts of headaches.

One Twelve said:
Ask LG. Looking at parts it seems like a rear housing is required.
But its not necessary in your case, not yet. Camera lens is easy to replace.
if you use a diztronic case it adds a layer so that the scratches are less. Its thin and offers protection. Not the same as naked but then you don't have these sorts of headaches.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I can't change laser plastic without changing camera lens, right?

Javinotfound said:
So I can't change laser plastic without changing camera lens, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, you misunderstood. I just mentioned camera lens is easy to replace. it does not have anything to do with your question.
Look at the rear housing part.
All you want is the red plastic part. I don't know if this small red plastic is available separately.
It looks like you have to get the entire rear housing just to replace that red plastic.
So ask LG and confirm here what they told you

One Twelve said:
no, you misunderstood. I just mentioned camera lens is easy to replace. it does not have anything to do with your question.
Look at the rear housing part.
All you want is the red plastic part. I don't know if this small red plastic is available separately.
It looks like you have to get the entire rear housing just to replace that red plastic.
So ask LG and confirm here what they told you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I see, I'll ask them later as soon I get home. If I can replace it, I'll buy one in a future, if the plastic ends bad. I hope it's not much expensive.

i think you have to get the rear housing because the red laser port plastic its attached to it.
price is USD $35 on that site, ballpark figure, maybe less from LG service centre.
This phone is easy and costs less to repair than other more pretty phones

One Twelve said:
i think you have to get the rear housing because the red laser port plastic its attached to it.
price is USD $35 on that site, ballpark figure, maybe less from LG service centre.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't buy the G4 to LG, so I don't know if they can sell me this.

Ask at the LG service centre and tell us what happened.

One Twelve said:
Ask at the LG service centre and tell us what happened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They said we can buy it to them. No price was told me, but we can if we ever have a problem. I'm relaxed now.
Enviado desde mi LG-H815 mediante Tapatalk

Javinotfound said:
They said we can buy it to them. No price was told me, but we can if we ever have a problem. I'm relaxed now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just that red window port thing ? sure ?

One Twelve said:
Just that red window port thing ? sure ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The full rear house piece, I guess.

Ah yes, if you asked the price we would know for sure

[HELP] Screen Freak Out When Display Small Line Of Pixel / Vertical

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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....

Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.

Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.

Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.

xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board

jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
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You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
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Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
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I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.