I picked up a Single DIN GA1312 by Eonon.
The problem is that when the car shuts off, the screen closes automatically, everything "shuts off" but the dash lights stay on. Sometimes they strobe off.
As well, sometimes while driving the unit will seem like it "browns out" meaning that everything will stop, and it will lightly blink fast showing "off" in the status window very din. Nothing "wakes" it up on the front of the unit. No button responses. If I shut the car off, it will still dimly flicker, then turning the car back on it will come back to life.
I attached a voltage meter to the 12V+ and 12VConstant and I don't notice a drop when the problem happens.
I want to say that it's a bad unit, but I've read about the cables being wrong on some of these decks. Any ideas?
Note: There is talk of an MCU addressing the buttons after shutdown by a Dark Leo, I can't find it though (even though I doubt it will fix it), and the user account only has 2 posts.
My unit had the 12v constant and 12v ignitian swapped so I had to swap those for mine to work properly. But, I don't think that is your problem, the brownout sound like a poor solder joint on the constant 12v to the board. You could probably redo the joint if you have that skill and equipment; if not I would just send it in for replacement.
The good news here is that this problem was related to my ignition switch and not the deck. After tuning the voltage meter correctly, I saw the changes in power I needed to.
Related
Here's one for the boffins on here.My BA crashes but it does it in the same place when getting in my car!!! Does the BA have a temperature issue or could it be a Static electricity problem.I have been racking my brains trying to sus this out, thought it could be the radio signal from the key but have tested that and no problems. It only happens once in the car.I do occasionally get that jolt from the handle when opening the car could this be it? Anybody else found this happening to them?
How exactly does it crash? Is there anything on the screen? Does it require a soft reset? Hard reset? What OS/ROM are you using (see Settings/Device Information)?
Are there strong electromagnetic fields from car equipment (speakers, magnet mounts, radio transmitters, etc.)?
You mentioned static electricity. That should not affect the BA unless the BA was in the direct path of the shock, i.e. it had to go through the BA. If it went from your hand to the ground, or from your hand to the air surrounding your skin, then the BA would not be in the direct path, even if it were attached to you.
But even on the small chance that the surface area of the BA relative to the surface area of your skin were large enough to induce a tiny charge which could be detected by the BA during your shock, you can eliminate that immediately, by storing the BA in a metal case. Just for fun, try wrapping the BA in aluminum foil and see if it still happens. You can play mp3s or something to hear whether it crashes.
Does it happen on the driver's side only, or passenger's as well?
When exactly does the crash occur? When you click the key opener? When you open the door? When you sit down? When you start the car? When you change gear? Where (on your person) is the BA all this time, and what state is it in (on, off, running a particular program)?
Is the BA's battery okay? Maintains charge? Does it have a poor connection to the BA, and can the contacts come loose from expansion due to temperature changes and/or from pressure applied externally to the case when entering the car (such as from your pocket or from touching the seat)?
Is the crash SD-card related? Does it happen if you remove the SD card, either immediately or when entering the car? Does it happen if you wiggle the SD card without removing it?
Do you have a WiFi or BT connection which goes in or out of range when entering your car? If so, what are your connection settings and ROM versions?
Does it happen if the keyboard tray is opened and closed?
Are you sure you that have the BA's buttons locked when power is turned off, and aren't pressing them accidentally?
WOW !!! Right first things first I am using the T-mobile 1.42 rom from this site with the latest radio version 1.15 and it is running win 2003 se, but the fault has happened on 3 different roms that I have used 1. was original O2 rom then the latest O2 rom and finally at present the T-Mobile 1.42 rom.
I have already dismissed the key fob and my car has no big stereo system just standard fitted speakers there is also no radio transmitter of any kind in the car.I have tried the the keyboard sliding in and out and no problems there and also no bt connection or wifi switched on.As for the sd card I have used it in other xda's and have had no problems except the blanking of the card due to other known issues with the original xda.Cant really wrap it up in foil as it does not happen everytime just occasionally but always while getting in the car.I use the BA allday long listening to MP3'3 and some surfing with no faults whatsover so Looks like I am back to square one.
I have a similar problem on my orange SPV M2000
Mine crashes (stalls) when in the in-car charging cradle
The occurances vary, sometimes when inserting, sometimes when in use, sometimes at the end of use
I have not had this happen (yet) when on battery power or when using the USB power-up cradle
I have not been able to pin this down to any specific use, but I suspect the BA cannot cope with indirect voltage variances supplied from the in-car chargers
Same here - we have 100 XDAiis in ThinkNavi GPS cradles and they occassionally lock with a blank screen when being taken in or out of the cradle. The lock is total - no key press or stylus soft reset will unlock them - the only cure is to remove the battery for a few seconds and on replacing the battery the unit hard resets - incredibly irritating - all software has to be re loaded. One user who has had this problem many times is now trialling a Carcomm Cradle.
Well guys have found out what the cause it was my Arkon screen mount have already replaced it once but the new one arrived yesterday and guess what as soon as the BA touches the conector on the mount zap it crashes so culprit found trouble is now what do i do for a mount will i get the same problems with another one?
I am aware that the problem with my XDA IIs is similar to other malfunctions described within this forum, however often those posts appear to be left unanswered. In order not to incur the wrath of the administrator therefore, I seek clarification and therefore I consider that I'm not duplicating any prior posts.
I acquired an XDA IIs from my son last year - the screen was cracked, the device wouldn't turn on and there was no charging cradle or lead. About six months ago I bought a usb sync/charging cable and a screen from mobilefun (described as "new" but wasn't - I complained but couldn't be ar**d to return the thing) and this week purchased a replacement battery from ebay. Now before you all shout 'caveat emptor' I wanted to do this as cheaply as possible.
I duly plugged the thing into my laptop anticipating joy and smug satisfaction; unfortunately I have only encountered misery.
The device pings, the amber led and the backlight for the screen come on (although there is nothing evident on the screen - did I pay 30 quid for a cumbersome torch) and everything looks rosy for approximately 10 minutes. Then the led turns red, the backlight switches off and it remains dormant for about 10 minutes. This cycle continues ad nauseum.
I have active sync and when the xda is in amber mode I can "see" the device on my laptop and I can communicate (synchronise) with it. So what is the problem(s)? Is the new battery a dud and a salutary lesson in why we get what we pay for? Should I be concerned that the screen lights up but displays nothing and therefore regret not returning the screen to mobile fun? Is the internal battery OK - if I change it will it have an impact upon my charging tribulations?
I hope that you can appreciate that I am loathe to spend any more money on this thing but having made an investment I'm also reluctant to bin it. Help the noob oh great ones.
first of all, welcome to the forum
interesting things happening there.
from the distance my first spontaneous reaction was "the battery and the display must be broken", which, after 3 times reading your post didn't really change despite the gigantic coincidence.
what you can try first of all is: install MyMobiler to your pc, which uses the activesync connection to connect remotely to the device and gives out the screen on the pc screen, where you can control your device with keyboard and mouse. that is always a good start, in case the display does not work or has no touch function any more...
http://mymobiler.com/
if that works out for you and you can see the screen, you can say for certain, that the device's screen is not really ok. the next thing to test would be the digitizer then.
you didn't write, whether you bought a complete display bundle or just the real screen, so let's test the touch function. i case you had seen a proper screen with mymobiler, try tapping and tapping and holding with the actual stylus on the actual screen while cradled and look at the screen's reaction in mymobiler, if the touch function works, you should be able to control the device, which would probably mean "get a new screen, digitizer is fine".
about the battery: since you don't really know what state the phone is in and how good the battery actually is, you should try and take out the battery connect the external power source to the cradle and load the battery in the back of the cradle. you know my device with wi-fi on for instance consumes more power, than can be loaded via usb, so after a little while, though connected to power with the amber led lighting up, the device will turn off. not with a red flash like described by you, but still...
if you load the battery to the max in the back of the cradle, take it out for say, half an hour and jam it back in, the orange led should turn green again in less than a minute, since no power was consumed, if that works out, you can then put the battery back in the device and then cradle it normally and see, whether it turns off again after 10 minutes.
the point is, all this does not really help you, i know that, but it can give you ideas on how to test the flaws and determine what really is wrong with the device. maybe you did not buy a broken screen and broken battery, maybe the device is so screwed, it destroys them itself. or maybe these testing methods give you a greater insight on what to test and maybe then you can confront the retailers responsible for that and prove it is their fault. i am sorry to hear about your device, without it working you are missing out on a great mobile experience.
greetz
Chef_Tony
Deep joy coupled with intense fury
Chef Tony - you are indeed a genius and I humbly bask in your glory. I've downloaded mymobiler and it displayed my screen which naturally needed to be aligned as I have put in a new screen and digitizer. It would appear that the digitizer is fine but the screen must be kaput.
I repeat that salutary lesson kids - if you purchase something described as new from a retailer and subsequently discover that it isn't, don't complain about it and then expect the Returns Elf to despatch the suspicious item back to the offending company. Do it yourself or bemoan the day that you couldn't be bothered to send it back to the company.
As for the battery I'm awaiting a different charger (I don't have a cradle only USB sync cable) but as I've mentioned previously I'm loathe to spend any more money so this might all be academic.
Thanks again
Buying from eBay is what 90% of ppl do here, it is not only a cheap way out, but the ONLY source for many replacement parts. Nothing wrong with that mate. eBay is actually also more expensive than numerous online wholesale sites for certain phone areas too.
So my phones earpiece began to cut in and out, which I found to be a chafed and broken flex cable. No biggie, I ordered a replacement piece and waited for it to show. As I waited the phone began to get worse, I lost the earpiece entirely, the leds stopped working as well as the sleep button. The screen, now only able to be woken by sliding, would not come on when slid out, but only once it returned..also the screen would shut off when I would slide it out again.
I have seen disassembled the phone again and installed the new cable and all is well, with one exception. The slide function of the screen no longer works, period. It will not wake, it will not rotate, and the keyboard doesnt illuminate unless I press a key. I have been through this phone 4 more times now and I simply cannot pin down exactly what tells the phone that it has been slid. I have heard talk of magnets, but found no sensor or magnet, I saw small contacts..that are all functioning properly. There is no cable or connection to the screen portion that connects to any sort of switch that I can see.
Does anyone know what triggers the slide?!
Sorry mate, im not an expert but I thought this may help.
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas...e=N&application_id=259614&fcc_id='NM8RHOD300'
The link is to the FCC website showing links to internal photos of the phone, SAR values, micellaneous stuff, etc.
Maybe a different perspective of the phone might help.
Hope this helps you
I have noticed that when I am using my EVO in the car for GPS + bluetooth + charging, it can get quite warm. Especially when its sitting in direct sun. Several times now while it's sitting in my cup holder it has started blinking the LED rapidly. I checked the battery temp in the battery app I run and it was approaching 50 degrees Celsius. What is a reasonable cut off temp that I can set an audible warning with so I notice next time it starts getting really hot? 49C ? What is considered the point where an EVO is "too hot"?
Also, on a potentially related note, the EVO will often crash and restart when I'm using GPS + voice communication (on a call) + BT + charging. This seems to be the required combination of multi-tasking to replicate the restart. I do this a LOT in my car with work so I have easily replicated it several times. I called Sprint and talked with advanced tech support. Once I described the specific problem he essentially offered to send a replacement phone with almost no resistance. This led me to believe its potentially a common/known issue internally at Sprint. Once I said a few magic words (voice and GPS simultaneously), he seemed to acknowledge it was a valid issue he had some experience seeing. They replaced a 0003 unit with a hardware version 0004 unit. Unfortunately, the issue still occurs. However, it doesn't seem to necessarily be heat related as the phone isn't always hot when it happens and I don't get rapid LED lights like when it has gotten really hot. All battery use has been the normal stock battery in both hardware versions.
Background info:
For testing purposes I am using stock Sprint rom fully updated, rooted. All standard radio/kernal, etc. No overclocking or anything like that.
I do all those Multitasking things all the time. It has never crashed/rebooted, in fact I don't recall ever having a random reboot.
I rarely have it in direct sunlight, I use a ProClip most of the time (which does allow a lot of air all around it).
It does get warm doing GPS, Charging and BT Voice Call. And it barely keeps up charging while GPS Navigation is going.
It might be your charger is allowing it to charge faster than it can handle.
I run MikGinger now and ran NonSense ROM for while.
My BT is always a little flakey though. If I make a call, hang up and wait and make another voice dial call it will all work fine. If I hang up and immediately make another call the phone will disconnect headset and leave Voice Prompt on Screen. If I clear screen and click headset again it reconnects fine and all is good. Every ROM has done this including CM7, Stock and Leaked based ones.
I had this same issue on my original phone. Doing anything in the car while it charged caused it to reboot. Even after being off and cooling down, I could get it to reboot by quickly scrolling up and down in the browser. My phone would just get warmer and warmer, then reboot.
I got them to give me a replacement, and all has been fine after that. It's a white Evo, HW rev 0004. I'd recommend getting another replacement. You shouldn't have to sacrifice doing what you want in order to keep your phone running. I can now have my phone charging on a hot day while getting GPS instructions and listening to Pandora. I don't have any bluetooth stuff, but I imagine I could do that as well.
Hey there. I'm a bit new to this side of XDA. Honestly with how long I've been AWOL from this site nothing is familiar anymore. How time flies. Well my first post back in years couldnt be more unfortunate phone wise, I've had my Z2 for a couple of months now and as a mechanic it's been treated like all my others phones prior, rough. I've been locally recognized as the guy who has a new phone every couple of months because he can't not shatter a phone. An expensive hobby of breaking phones. Well luckily I didn't shatter my Z2. I just water logged it. Gotta change things up right? So here's where the interesting problem comes in, I let the phone sit in rice for 30 hours, switching the rice out half way through. It acted up like you would expect in the first couple of hours but then stopped. When I pulled the phone out I scraped the rice out of all the books and crannies and tried to power it on, to no avail. Dead battery I assume, so I plug it in. Charge icon pops up, a sign of life! How glorious. So I let it sit for a minute as I assume the battery probably dropped below minimum voltage when the LEDs were freaking out. Went back to the phone, held the power button and no screen, but "Hello, Moto!" So at this point I'm convinced the screen is dead, so I force it off with the volume down method and pry off the screen. To find what? More water. Good Lord. This phone is incredibly water resistant just in reverse. So I do the only thing that makes sense at this point, I remove the ribbion connector from the board for the display and put the phone back in new rice as 2 separate pieces. I then leave it in there for another 30 hours switching the rice halfway. Bringing us to now. I took the phone out, cleaned all the rice out of the 2 pieces and off the remaining adhesive and connected the ribbion back to the board. Plug the charger in, and again, charging logo. But then I hold the power button and the TMobile splash screen pops up! Then the screen goes dead and once again, "Hello, Moto!". But whats different is now when the boot sequence is finished I can interact with the phone and it works, shake for flashlight, enter my passcode (just by feel cause I'm good like that, ladies hmu), and the button responds with vibration. The phone is working but no screen. So at this point I'm sure, the display driver is done. I murdered it in cold daylight. So I shut it off and start looking around for new screens, in the midst of this I knock the phone and accidentally hit the power button, and it starts to boot up. T-Mobile spash screen, screen death, "Hello, Moto!", and nothing. Now that seems weird. Why would it work twice on the TMobile splash? So I decide I'll try putting it in fastboot for S&G's. Restart, put it in fastboot and the screen stays on. Beautiful and clear as day, all buttons work, everything reads fine, but, if I go to boot it or do anyother action than "retart bootloader", the cycle continues. T-Mobile, death, hello Moto, nothingness. Now at this point I'm okay with the phone being dead, it's fine, but I'm intrigued now. What would cause the screen to work just fine when in the bootloader and the TMobile splash screen, but die when it boots? The phone is very clearly working in the background. I logged in, used Google assistant, used the flashlight, pressed buttons on the dialer, all without the screen but with haptic feedback and audio. Could the graphical side of the main partition just be corrupt, or maybe the display driver is dead but the main board interacts with it differently during fastboot? I'm far from being knowledgeable on the hardware side of these things but I'm really genuinely interested in getting feedback here from anyone with an idea of what is going on. I'll post a video here in a half an hour or so when I finish up with dinner.
AFAinHD said:
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Well... It sounds like there is a short between the screen and the main board. It could have happened when you plugged it into power while parts were still wet causing a short to ground and frying a chip that controls display but not touch on the screen.
Best way I can describe it for you is if an ECU on a car got wet and shorted out. Everything works but you get an engine code for TPS sensor failure due to said short. (The ECU can't read TPS due to a short). That is what seems like what happened.
Uzephi said:
Well... It sounds like there is a short between the screen and the main board. It could have happened when you plugged it into power while parts were still wet causing a short to ground and frying a chip that controls display but not touch on the screen.
Best way I can describe it for you is if an ECU on a car got wet and shorted out. Everything works but you get an engine code for TPS sensor failure due to said short. (The ECU can't read TPS due to a short). That is what seems like what happened.
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Click to collapse
Well see I would think that as well but the screen does work. Just only in fastboot, and the boot logo.
I got the video here.
Fastboot is a pretty low level and most likely uses basic hardware. I mean really what is there to see but a simple background with some text. Once you load the OS then all the hardware and it's drivers into play. Have you tried booting into safemode? Ultimately you'll probably have to repair or replace, but there could be a slim chance that there's still a little moisture in there and it still has a short somewhere.