Moto X Battery Replacement - Moto X Accessories

Hi guys,
I want to replace my battery. I have seen a few quides. Can someone tell me please what is the sticker that is attached on the battery itself that has the "X8 Mobile Computing System" on it? I am asking cause the majority of EX34 battery replacements don't come with that on. So, will it be easy to take it off from the original and put it back on the new one? Thanks!

It's the NFC antenna, be careful not to unplug it if you don't have to, and if you do make sure it's connected well afterwards. The adhesive is fairly strong so you should be good for tranferring it to the new battery, but be gentle removing it as not to tear the antenna

Related

9600mAh / 6400mAh / 4800mAh Internal Battery

I am initiating my third project this winter season.
Purpose of this project:
The project is to successfully make a 9600mAh battery @ 3.7VDC.
Objective:
Use least amount of resources. Battery should be created easily by anyone. Budget is less than $100 USD.
Materials:
3x 3200mAh Li-Ion batteries
4x Copper conduit cables with plastic wrapping
- 2x Copper cables 5mm Width, 4-5cm Lenght.
- 2x Copper cables 1-2mm Width, 4-5cm Lenght.
1x Tin (Sn) Soldering Unit.
1x 2-3cm battery door.
Procedure:
1. As you see there are 4 compartments of power conductor on the battery (metal copper) where the battery touches the Universal pins.
2. Stack up all the batteries so that they are one over the other in same position parallely.
3. Take the copper cable and connect it to each batteries metal spot. Ofcourse the bigger compartment is going to require the 5mm wire and the other small ones will require 2mm.
4. Solder the wires tightly and they must touch all the compartments.
5. There should be a little bit of wire left in the end and that wire must touch the first battery a bit.
6. Make sure you do not use excess wire otherwise all the batteries wont fit in the battery door.
7. The first battery will clip into the Universal but now here is the modification you have to make to the other batteries.
Break off the clips on the other batteries. Front and back slip in clips. This will enable the batteries to fit in the case and probably make room for the copper wires too.
8. Now here is the problem. If you are making a 4800mAh battery stack (3200mAh + 1600mAh) then you are lucky and can custom order a battery door. For the other people making 9600mAh or 6400mAh you will have to make your own battery door probably by using molding plastic tools.
Now please keep note not to ever ever ever solder anything to the pins on the Universal power recieving wires. Otherwise you are in big trouble and probaly damaged the power supply but you can cut the solder off.
Results:
So this is the array of batteries you have just built. I will built a 5000mAh battery so this is how it will work for me. i have a 1800mAh battery that is of normal flat size and a 3200mAh battery. Both of same 3.7V ~ VDC. Therefore, we can conclude that both stacked. The wires were connected parallely and i preffered to break the clips on the 3200mAh battery since my 1800mAh is metallic. I asked Lion Battery to send me a battery door for their 4800mAh batteries and they arranged it for $10 or something and it fit my battery stack because it was approximately 1cm extended.
So first the wires were soldered on the 3200mAh and then they reached down to the 1800mAh. The 1800mAh connected independently to the pins on the Universal. The Universal is now drawing power out of both 3200mAh and 1800mAh batteries!!!!
Conclusion:
I saved $200 on a 5000mAh battery.
Good luck on making your battery stack. Try to post pictures and information if you to undertake this project and are successful.
Regards.
I will buy only if the size remains the same size as 1620mA original battery.
Anything beyond the size is bulky, considering Universal itself is already bulky.
CWKJ said:
I will buy only if the size remains the same size as 1620mA original battery.
Anything beyond the size is bulky, considering Universal itself is already bulky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. The maximum available at flat size is 1800mAh. Single Battery. But the point of having the universal is functionality. I dont use it to talk. I use the BT headset.
nuclear
Use car battery and you solve all their own problems
.Will much long work!
Show us photo your super batteries!
If will be a photo we all shall believe that you technical genius!
It would be a Nuclear device...beware
You should realy start to think about your 4th project:
Making BAG for project N3
Guys be nice...
Nuclear any chance of some photos? Put them on Flickr etc.
What kind of usage time do you get?
V
YES, be nice... because in theory as long as you connect the batteries in PARALLEL you are not increasing the voltage, but you are increasing the capacity, thus longer battery life. As a matter of fact, you can stack as many as you want.
Now if you are connecting the batteries in SERIES, then you are going to fry (TOAST, if you prefer) your precious Universal.
vijay555 said:
Guys be nice...
Nuclear any chance of some photos? Put them on Flickr etc.
What kind of usage time do you get?
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Offcourse I'm joking - but actualy it will be powerfull Universal without chance to put him in .... pocket
i was just thinking of this last night, and there a thread.
anyone have any idea how to make a battery door, or what i call it a battery cover with ease? i do not own any plastic moulding tools
omega_ said:
i was just thinking of this last night, and there a thread.
anyone have any idea how to make a battery door, or what i call it a battery cover with ease? i do not own any plastic moulding tools
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find making a battery cover/door very easy personally. I did not post upon how to make a battery cover/door but after a lot of thinking i have come up with the procedure to do that too.
1. Order 2x 3200mAh batteries from ebay or anywhere you like. The batteries will include their individual covers. Note that you must order the battery with the square black door and not the aerodynamic silver door. You can also order individual battery doors from ebay by requesting the seller
2. Therefore you will be making a 6400mAh stack of battery.
3. This is where you have get to make a choice. Either to keep the batteries in one compartement or to keep the batteries in separate compartements (recommended).
4. Keeping the batteries in separate compartements helps in cooling effect and prolongs the life of the batteries because batteries emit EMF waves that could damage each other. When the batteries are kept separately they have no chance of effecting each other.
5. Also note that the batteries charge and discharge simultaneously due to charge distrubution factor of 1/2 .
6. Ok now to make the cover. First we will look at the single compartment where both batteries sit together.
- We have two covers and classify them as Cover A and B.
- Cover A will clip into the Universal directly.
- Cut out cover A's roof using a hot cutting knife (recommended to keep soft edges). Let the Cover A cool down and you may now throw away the roof of cover A.
- Cut out the base or rim of Cover B. You know the rim that sits on the Universal. The flat rim part on Cover B must not exist.
- Cover B must now look like a perfect rectangle without any edges because it will sit on Cover A and you will attach them by heating up Cover A and Cover B edges so that they both bond up. You can make this bond either by using permanent glue or moulding using a chisel heat knife.
- So now you have successfully made a 6400mAh battery door. Make sure there is enough room for the wires to pass. Good luck.
7. Now to make the separtate compartement battery holder.
- Cut out the rim of Cover B using the hot knife method.
- Make Cover B sit on Cover A exactly in the same co-ordinates.
- Mold them back and make the bond between Cover A and B so now they are Cover A-B.
- Make a hole in Cover A's roof so you can pull out the wires that are going to Battery B in cover B. Make sure that the battery is first in cover B and you solder the Cover A and B with the battery sitting in Cover B. You wont be able to take out the Battery from Cover B because now it is sitting permanently in Cover B fully SEALED! . Make sure you don't solder the Wires to Battery B before this step.
If additional space is needed or the batteries are heating up, just use a metallic 2-5mm stick to make a gap between Compartement A and B.
When i start doing this i will post pictures of the battery stack and my new battery door.
Good luck in making your battery door.
By parallel battery stacking i mean that 1 wire goes through all the batteries touching each batteries metal compartment, since Universal batteries have 4 of these compartements we going to have 4 wires touching each of those metal parts. All the 4 wires must run parallely without touching each other. And that is why we cover them with plastic.
Now if I am correct a series connection is where all batteries connect directly to the Universal, which will fry the universal due to excessive voltage input around 10-12Volts. When the batteries connect all in line then its a parallel and voltage input does not change. Its only the capacity that changes. But you must make sure a wire is running directly to the universal and all the other batteries are connected to that wire. Its like a branching except the main branch connects to the Universal and all the sub branches are the batteries.
I will post pictures when i get home of what i am looking for. It seems words arent enough. Pictures Pictures Pictures!! and Diagrams. I know you all want to see the blueprints. Thats why when i go home today i will make the blueprints in autocad or by hand and upload pictures here. I will also show you what series connections are and how you can fry the battery/Universal if a wrong connection is made.
I personally wont be attempting this project until i make a good cover for the battery. I will ask those 4800mAh battery sellers to give me a cover without the battery for $5-$20. Dont want the 4800mAh battery from those sellers $200 .
Actually now that i think about it i would like to stick with 1800mAh only because its so flat with the universal and not at all bulky. But i dont care about the bulk because i never use the phone to call. Like i never hold it to my ear. Always use a BT headset. This bulk battery is seriously going to be heavy.
Truly I would advice you all to stay with the 1600-1800mAh battery until a new battery is released of the same size with higher capacity.
Okay if you guys really want me to attempt this project I will. But I wont be using that huge stack. Also if someone could help me I would really appreciate it. Afterall I am trying to help you guys too. I dont want you guys spending so much money on something thats so cheap. You guys already spent a lot of money on the Universal and I suggest you dont get cheated by this battery thing. Thats why I didnt have any pictures. But i can atleast provide blueprints. I am doing all this for you guys and not personally for myself. I could have done this project at home and never let any of you know. But there are some days when I am struck and I come looking for help on the internet and i get that help. Thats why I would also be a part of that help and help other people with all I have to offer. So please dont get mad if i dont have pictures or my setup does not work. I am trying my best.
Parallel Battery Stacking
My first picture of how parallel stacking should look like. This is one of the blueprints i post. Make sure your wires are minimal. Very small wires otherwise the batteries wont fit in there. Even the cover must be able to support the wires. If you are making a twin compartment battery case, then better make holes in the partition for the passage of the wires. I will post a blueprint for that too, the cover that is. The key to success in this project is to minimize wires as much as possible.
Also good news! A recent technology has been invented that lets you charge your electronics on wireless!. Plug in the adapter into the wall and there you go. You have wireless charging. I saw this news somewhere I dont remember exactly but I know it was a valid news source.
nuclear said:
My first picture of how parallel stacking should look like. This is one of the blueprints i post. Make sure your wires are minimal. Very small wires otherwise the batteries wont fit in there. Even the cover must be able to support the wires. If you are making a twin compartment battery case, then better make holes in the partition for the passage of the wires. I will post a blueprint for that too, the cover that is. The key to success in this project is to minimize wires as much as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you make the wires thinner, they will get hotter/the resistance of them will go up, causing more power consumption
nuclear said:
Also good news! A recent technology has been invented that lets you charge your electronics on wireless!. Plug in the adapter into the wall and there you go. You have wireless charging. I saw this news somewhere I dont remember exactly but I know it was a valid news source.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging your electronics on wireless? >.>
As has been asked before for your claims, links, sources... come on man, we can't take your word for everything.
Another alternative ... although not as much fun as making one
I had the same problem of not having enough battery capacity, especially since the original battery starting going bad (it would shut down at about 50% charge, lasting only 30-60 minutes). So I had the choice of getting the original battery for about $25 with shipping or getting the 3150mAh Li-ion Battery for $35 with shipping. I got the 3150mAh about a month ago and have been very pleased with it. It easily lasts 4 hours under full load and I could go a whole working day under normal use ... amazing !!! Also, it actually feels better holding onto the device, since it's easier to grab onto with the indents on either end of the cover. It's wonderful, not having to worry about carrying around my charger everywhere. I ended up getting it from www.Gizmos2Go.com (http://www.gizmos2go.com/xcart/search.php?mode=search). They were out of stock when I ordered it, but were very nice about keeping me up to date on the progress. Although, it's available elsewhere, so shop for the best price ... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=Li-Ion+battery+High+Capacity+3150+jasjar.
Another alternative I use is to use a mini-USB "batter extender" that works with 4AA batteries. It's worked well with the Universal with Li-Ion batteries. Here's a link to one of these types of chargers ... http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~u...ries-power+accessories~item~USB-BATADPT01.htm.
I know these aren't nearly as much fun as making one yourself, but they both have worked well for me. Anyways, I hope this helps someone make a decision.
olliesshop said:
I had the same problem of not having enough battery capacity, especially since the original battery starting going bad (it would shut down at about 50% charge, lasting only 30-60 minutes). So I had the choice of getting the original battery for about $25 with shipping or getting the 3150mAh Li-ion Battery for $35 with shipping. I got the 3150mAh about a month ago and have been very pleased with it. It easily lasts 4 hours under full load and I could go a whole working day under normal use ... amazing !!! Also, it actually feels better holding onto the device, since it's easier to grab onto with the indents on either end of the cover. It's wonderful, not having to worry about carrying around my charger everywhere. I ended up getting it from www.Gizmos2Go.com (http://www.gizmos2go.com/xcart/search.php?mode=search). They were out of stock when I ordered it, but were very nice about keeping me up to date on the progress. Although, it's available elsewhere, so shop for the best price ... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=Li-Ion+battery+High+Capacity+3150+jasjar.
Another alternative I use is to use a mini-USB "batter extender" that works with 4AA batteries. It's worked well with the Universal with Li-Ion batteries. Here's a link to one of these types of chargers ... http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~u...ries-power+accessories~item~USB-BATADPT01.htm.
I know these aren't nearly as much fun as making one yourself, but they both have worked well for me. Anyways, I hope this helps someone make a decision.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey thanks ollie, this helps a lot. I really like external power, 4AA batteries are nice. I can use my AA 2700mAh battery and 4 of them will make the Universal last a long time. I really like my 1800mAh battery and with this external power idea i can use my universal for a long time. I use my universal in my car, office and work. I am mostly using my headset so make/answer calls. So I could stick to the 1800mAh and put my universal in a leather case and belt clip and carry it around. While i want to play games or chat on msn i can hook up the external AA batteries and the batteries will be in my pocket while i am using the universal.
Yes thats the one and last thing i want to know. If the cable is long enough to hide the AA external batteries... atleast 60-100cm
Pics
Nuclear,
Your project really intrigued me. Do you have any pictures of your work in progress or finished product? Thanks.
I have a Sino battery from eBay, insanely cheap (something like £16 shipped) with the bulgy cover. Works brilliantly.
I'm amazed by some of the claims of poor battery life. I make very little use of my device, but I also seem to get 4 days+ of standby/occasional use with this battery installed! As in, take it on holiday, show it to people, make a couple of calls, play a couple of games, bit of WiFi in the pub - that sort of thing - and it had 39% charge after four days.
Pyrojester said:
As you make the wires thinner, they will get hotter/the resistance of them will go up, causing more power consumption
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think nuclear means shorter, not thinner - reducing any resistance

[Q] Is it the Battery or is it something else?

Hi there.
My Mother has a One V which she is really happy about. But recently she says that it has been draining the battery so fast. At first i didnt really believe it (you know old people and tech), and asked if she had charged it correctly. She then told me that the charging process was also quite strange.. She had plugged it in one night, and the phone displayed that it was charging.. Then 8 hours after, in the morning it had only charged 2% ! This doesnt happen all the time, but only some times.
Now she has given it to me and hope that i can fix it. At first im just going to factory reset it, even though i dont think that is the problem. But i have noticed that what she is telling me is true to some extend. I have had the phone sitting on the table all night. No simcard and no nothing.. It had only used about 5%, but as soon as i began using it, to take backup and prepare for the reset oh boy.. It uses 1% in merely seconds! Approx 26 seconds per 1%!
I think this is rather strange and im unsure if the battery is the problem.. Do you guys have any ideas ?
Oh and i have to say that the phone is running newest stock software. It has never been rooted or anything like that.
Well, the charger port is probably bad. My first htc one m8 and my droid incredible 2 both have weak ports on them from the factory. Send it in for warranty and say nothing < about a possible bad charging port if it still has warranty. And, if nothing Less try a brand new charger, and see if that one works and if it's loose when it's plugged in. If it Is loose with new charger it's a bad charger port.
Yeah this confuses me as well. It happens once every few months. The battery drains really fast and charging is extremely slow. The first time this happened my One V dropped from 100% to 27% in 20 minutes! And just like it randomly happens it randomly goes; battery consumption goes back to normal after a day or two.
A possible reason is the charger and USB cable that is used. My cable is worn out so that might be why charging is slow but it doesn't explain why the battery drains so fast even when the phone is disconnected from the charger. So the only reasonable explanation would be some hardware problems in the battery pack.
But this is all just me guessing... I don't know for sure.
tylerleo said:
Well, the charger port is probably bad. My first htc one m8 and my droid incredible 2 both have weak ports on them from the factory. Send it in for warranty and say nothing < about a possible bad charging port if it still has warranty. And, if nothing Less try a brand new charger, and see if that one works and if it's loose when it's plugged in. If it Is loose with new charger it's a bad charger port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be the charger port. I tried cleansing it with a toothpick (heard dust could be the problem), but the problem persists
swhatevers said:
Yeah this confuses me as well. It happens once every few months. The battery drains really fast and charging is extremely slow. The first time this happened my One V dropped from 100% to 27% in 20 minutes! And just like it randomly happens it randomly goes; battery consumption goes back to normal after a day or two.
A possible reason is the charger and USB cable that is used. My cable is worn out so that might be why charging is slow but it doesn't explain why the battery drains so fast even when the phone is disconnected from the charger. So the only reasonable explanation would be some hardware problems in the battery pack.
But this is all just me guessing... I don't know for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem here is that it happens every second time or so the phone is charged at the moment. But i have bought a new battery and will try and change it. Ill write here how it goes and if there is a improvement, so that you know where the problem relies if you are thinking about doing the same.
Same problem here. Every few months the battery drops from > 50% to 2% or so. This happens within some minutes and my phone gets really hot.
But normaly I use it with a 2 amp charger and I think this happens more often if I use chargers with 1 amp.
Edit: This happened for me with every rom I used.
I changed the battery two days ago, and i can already feel a huge improvement.. 8 hours ago i took it out from the charger. Data and Bluetooth has been on all day. Been browsing a little, and sent som SMS and stuff like that.. 65% now.
The conclusion must be that in my case at least, it was a battery hardware fault.
I'm also thinking about replacing my battery, was replacing it easy?
jonas2790 said:
I'm also thinking about replacing my battery, was replacing it easy?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it was actually pretty easy. Although i have done it on my One S too, and that was even easier.
Some recommendations: Get your self a repair tool kit before you start. Everything has been so much easier for me after i got that. It is all the money worth it . This is what i got http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261399617620?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT <- They ship worldwide.
The battery i brought : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321303229844?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
First i took the plate off at the bottom of the phone (the one where there behind is sim card and sd card). Unscrewed all six screws. Once done you can take all the plastic off the large plastic part (the one below the simcard and sd card when inserted, and covering everything behind the outer cover). This part is also taped/glued, but should not be a problem to get off.
After you have taken that off, use a pry tool to pry the plate open around the camera lens and flash (beware that this plate is also taped together. Unscrew the last screw behind.
Now comes the tricky part. You need another more solid pry tool to pry the lcd/board out from the front. Use the pry tool in between the screen and the cover of the phone, and all the way around. The LCD and board needs to come out from the phones front.
After that the battery becomes visible. There is nothing special to getting the plug out for it as far as i can remember and should just be pulled towards the battery to get it out. Battery is glue to the inside of the phone, but using the solid pry tool you should be able to get it out. If you order the battery i linked to, it comes with new 3M tape.
Heres a video showing it pretty good i think:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPasbSobzwA
Da9L said:
Yes it was actually pretty easy. Although i have done it on my One S too, and that was even easier.
Some recommendations: Get your self a repair tool kit before you start. Everything has been so much easier for me after i got that. It is all the money worth it . This is what i got http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261399617620?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT <- They ship worldwide.
The battery i brought : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321303229844?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
First i took the plate off at the bottom of the phone (the one where there behind is sim card and sd card). Unscrewed all six screws. Once done you can take all the plastic off the large plastic part (the one below the simcard and sd card when inserted, and covering everything behind the outer cover). This part is also taped/glued, but should not be a problem to get off.
After you have taken that off, use a pry tool to pry the plate open around the camera lens and flash (beware that this plate is also taped together. Unscrew the last screw behind.
Now comes the tricky part. You need another more solid pry tool to pry the lcd/board out from the front. Use the pry tool in between the screen and the cover of the phone, and all the way around. The LCD and board needs to come out from the phones front.
After that the battery becomes visible. There is nothing special to getting the plug out for it as far as i can remember and should just be pulled towards the battery to get it out. Battery is glue to the inside of the phone, but using the solid pry tool you should be able to get it out. If you order the battery i linked to, it comes with new 3M tape.
Heres a video showing it pretty good i think:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPasbSobzwA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aah so it was the battery pack after all!! Interesting to know.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for the battery replacement links.
My One V is retired but since the battery is cheap I will buy one and replace it just in case I ever need the phone as backup.

[Q] Battery

So, I was to look inside my phone and when I tried to take out the battery it broke not exactly the battery but this piece:
And my question is, can I repair this piece somehow ??
HTC 8S battery
Hi, the HTC 8S battery isn't designed to be removable.
The ribbon connector is very flimsy, in my opinion you would need to buy a new battery.
Battery
Yeah, I just ordered new battery, it is cheap but i want to try to fix it somehow if it is possible. Thanks for your reply !

Permernent fix of reboot loop issue caused by battery

I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
its work
I tried this method before see this post.
but I connected the battery's - directly with battery.
now I follow this method and it's work
thanks
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
JMak00 said:
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those batteries are still working well, just the glue part gets old and not functioning well.
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
beninho97 said:
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some unofficial manufactured G2 battery and found it has same phenomenon as yours.
I think it's just because of diffreent ic in the battery.
sniperx1211 said:
I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My d855 was with two batteries with this problem, I did what is taught in the tutorial and both work perfectly now. I would like to know just what are the risks in the future.
Meanwhile I'm using two new batteries after the procedure.
I have few questions. What kind of wire did you use to jump solder the contacts, also how did you close the cover?

Battery life is wrong / innaccurate

Hi,
My m9 has an issue with the battery. Basically when the battery gets down to 20% the phone may die at any point. Sometimes goes all the way down to 0% but just as likely to die at 20%.
Is the battery effed or is there a way to fix this ?
How hard is it to swap out a m9 battry?
It's definitely the battery age, it's not very hard to swap but I don't recommend to swap by your own if you don't know what that means, one wrong move and you can damage the phone.
My battery died the same way. It's a sign you need a new one. From what I've been told, you're best paying a professional to change it as the phone is quite sensitive. Just make sure you know if anything doesn't work before you hand it over.
Yeah, that's a sign of needing a new one. It's not really easy to swap it. You need a steady hand and the proper tools. Also you have to be very careful with the details, cause as everything is glued up, trying to pry something can easily break something else.
From my experience, the youtube videos that show how to replace it are not really accurate. They show replacing it only when the adhesive is already removed, which can cause you problems not knowing where the adhesive is and how to remove it. I screwed up a few parts prying the battery
Gladly almost everything is modular.
UPDATES:: Got a new battery, did a practice run on an old m9 model that was already FUBAR, swapped battery fine, made no difference at all to the situation. yay!!

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