Vibrant,Captivate,Mesmerize Batteries in Galaxy S2 - T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S II SGH-T989

Do you have a few Vibrant,Captivate,Mesmerize Batteries? Do u need a back up battery? Vibrant,Captivate,Mesmerize Batteries will power on the Galaxy S2. The phone will charge the GalaxyS T959 batteries with the phone turned off, not on. To make the batteries work all you need is a cigarette butt(clean one if u can). put the cigarette butt in the bottom of the battery slot, then take the battery. Put the battery bottom in first, that will be the side with out the directional triangle. You will compress the cigarette butt with the battery and push down the top of the battery gently down. Dont go all crazy and slam it in and mess up the pins.
To remove battery , just pulll out the cigarette butt and remove battery
At this point, many of you will ask questions like... well the galaxy S2 T989 has 4 pins and the Vibrant,Captivate,Mesmerize are 3 pin.
this does not matter, this will still work. regardless of the charging pin count
View attachment 2814249
i hope this may help people

Related

fake battery for HTC devices?

I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
This is actually a decent request and wouldn't mind a solution.
Laptops don't need the battery in to work via AC/DC. Would be great if HTC would wire these devices so as to behave without the dependency of the battery all the time.
i wouldn't agree more... htc only works with batery inserted, and i would like too take it off and work with just the adapter
Get an after market battery?
shahriar5252 said:
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once the battery is fully charged the charging stops. The device is going to get hot from just being on and communication with sprint for the navigation regardless of the battery.
shahriar5252 said:
I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tito:
No, not an after-market battery. The idea is to be able to work with HTC devices using only external power without the battery being in the device. As of now, all HTC PDAs require the battery to be in the device to turn on even when you are using external power to power up the device. The wiring of all HTC PDAs allow an external power supply to function in only recharging the battery--not powering up the device. The wiring of HTC PDAs require that only the battery be able to power up the device. The problem is when you are trying to use the device for a long time for applications such as navigation system, the act of using the battery to keep the device on and recharging it at the same time will heat up the battery, and the device turns off. I am asking the community whether anyone has a suggestion about how to modify the device to enable an external power supply to turn on the device directly with out the battery being in the device. Please re-read my original power that started this thread for more info. Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my understanding batteries should have low internal resistance, so I don't see how hooking up a resistor will help here. Do you know whether HTC has a chip in its batteries so that the device could only recognize its batteries and thereby exclude after-market batteries? A recognition chip in the battery could explain why my device will not turn on even when I connect together all the battery prongs on my Spring Mogul (PPC6800) and the red no-battery light goes away. If there is a chip in the battery, is there a way to harvest its program and put it on a blank chip and connect it to the device battery holder's prongs to turn on the devise? Thanks for your suggestions.
rsw686 said:
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car charger that I have is a Motorola and has a fuse in it to break circuit in case of a power surge. I think we just need to find a way to power up the device without needing the battery. Any other suggestions? Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These suggestion will not work because I think HTC batteries have a chip in them to stop excess recharging. Therefore the device needs to recognize the battery chip's permission to turn on itself. See my next post for how the recharging works on Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800).
I would appreciate any other suggestions.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I want to be able to use the HTC device using an external power supply without the battery in the device.
Possible solution using a new cooked up ROM:
My Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800) has an LED that turns orange when I plug in the device for recharging, and the battery normally gets warmed up as the battery is being recharged. The orange LED will turn green once the battery is fully charged, and then the battery cools. Once the LED is green and the device is still plugged in to an external power supply, the fully recharged battery remains cool even if it is being used for intensive applications. From this observation, I am guessing that HTC batteries or the device itself must have a chip in them that sense the amount of charge in the battery and shup down further recharging of the battery so as to prevent overcharging the battery.
If so, can someone find out how a new ROM can be cooked up to trick the device or the battery into thinking that the battery is fully charged and thereby prevent the battery from being charged when the owner wants to use the device on external power without recharging the battery?
Of course, this must be a reversible thing to do.
I did this last year, but haven't put much time into perfecting it
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
curiousandroid said:
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you did the soldering of the connections because when I hooked them using wires, it did not work. A red LED would come on and the phone would not turn on. So go ahead and post your pictures to see what you did. Thanks.
Here's my working design
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Here's my working design
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
curiousandroid said:
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
curiousandroid said:
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. The pictures that you attached are too small to see what is connected to what. From what I understand, you are trying to use NiMH rechargeable batteries of non-rechargeable AAA batteries in place of the original battery. How do you fit AAA batteries in there? What exactly did you soldier to what? A schematic hand diagram would be nice in addition to zoomed-in photos.
I was more thinking of buying another battery for the phone from ebay for about $10 and taking its gut out and putting resistors inside the battery so that the batteries voltage would be the same. This way, if I want to make long travels in my car with Sprint Navigation on the whole time, the battery would continually get power from the car charger and put out the same voltage for the PDA device.
I am worried about the original battery having a device-recognition chip in it to regulate the charging of the battery or stopping the charging if the battery gets too hot. From what you are describing, the battery does not seem to have an internal chip that can regulate battery activity or turn off the device when the battery gets too hot. I hope this is the case of my new Sprint/HTC Touch Pro (I used to have a Sprint/HTC Mogul).
It would be nice to get a 2nd battery from ebay, take out its gut, and fit small resistors there, and render it as a "fake" battery. This way, I will be able to swap the real battery with the fake one whenever I have to use Navigation system in my car. And by attaching the car charger to the device's USB, I can power up the device through the fake battery without having to worry about battery drainage or turning off of the device from recharging and using the battery at the same time. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this or have you tried to do this yourself?
sorry about the pic, the forum wouldnt let me upload full sized version, i'll try to us a link instead and put it on photobucket.
I think the regulatory chip for lithium batteries is normally stored in the battery pack itself, you cant see it unless you peel off the plastic layer on the outside of the battery, also inside the pack you will find a couple of generic lithium cells, that can be replaced with same voltage/size cells from many other pda/phone battery packs, though it does require a bit of careful soldiering the cells to the regulatory chip and battery harness. BTW "AAA" batteries don't actually fit in the device, but i plugged them in via usb battery pack to the usb plug i soldiered into the device. I suppose it may be possible to fit 3 "AAAA" batteries in the device since they are thinner, but they probably wouldn't last too long between charges.
the reg chip probably connects through the middle 4 prongs that I don't use [+||||-]

[REVIEW] OEM SGS2 T989 Spare Battery Charging System & Phone Stand

Wow! that's quite a mouthful eh?
It's not a charging/sync docking station, that's for sure, i was hoping it would've been for that price $40, but it's worth it.
The package content:
- The pretty Box itself (with the OEM Samsung hologram logo)
- Instruction Manual
- Warranty Info
- Wall charger, micro usb plug
- 1850 mAh spare battery with NFC
- Dual function charging battery base, that double as a phone stand
The battery charge stand can use either the original micro USB cable that came with the phone and plug it to the computer, or you can use the wall charger that came with the stand to plug it to the wall.
The stand will only charge the spare the battery, it will not dock & charge the phone.
However the phone stand is adjustable to sit the phone vertically, horizontally, or leaning over the dock in a variety of position, it sits well on most desk, and it has 4 rubber feet, so it wont slide around.
The phone sits nicely on that glove even when the case is on the phone, and is firm enough to not have to worry about it being knocked down accidentally.
it' makes it easy to work hands off, or make a very nice Clock/Alarm night stand, or even watch TV/Movies, combines well when plugged to the MHL to HDMI connector
The battery charge has a LED indicator that switches from red, amber, green, indicating the level of the battery charge status
the charging pad is very compact, so it's great for travel, and carry around with you for when you want to use both hands to work on the phone, and keep the phone standing up for easy typing, or any other alternative uses you can come up with.
Good review. Looking at your pictures, you did the same thing I did - Use the phones charger instead of the included one.
The charger one looks cheap imo.
I did find that without a case, the stand didn't hold mine the way I would've liked it to. I felt that with it standing upright, it could easily be knocked over with a bump of the table.
yeah, you'r right it holds better with a case than without a case, it does feel a bit lose without a case
i guess when they designed it, they took that into account
it'll be waaaaay too much of a hassle to keep taking the case on/off whenever you want to sit the phone down
agreed, having an extra battery for this thing is great too, as my average phone use would be considered "heavy" according to others. when i leave for the day i grab the dock and my phone and never worry, at night i plug them both in.
I bought this a couple days after getting the phone and honestly don't know why I haven't done this before. Don't have to worry about carrying my charger everywhere with me now.
Sent from my Juggernaut SGSII or Galaxy Tab 10.1 now "In Paris"
I decided to go with this package 2 weeks ago and its awesome. It was $49.99 at a Tmobile Store but got 2 $1.99 lanyards for the 30% off swallow for 3 accessories. The D30 case fits sweet withe the stand. I highly recommended it!
AllGamer said:
yeah, you'r right it holds better with a case than without a case, it does feel a bit lose without a case
i guess when they designed it, they took that into account
it'll be waaaaay too much of a hassle to keep taking the case on/off whenever you want to sit the phone down
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got a question for you, which charger are you using with this? the 1A? How quick is it charging?
I cant imagine you to get too quick a charge if your now charging 2 batteries with the stock charger and partially using the phone.
If it wont charge the phone whats the point of this thing? to just charge the spare battery?
Will it charge the phone once the spare is charged? Once its taken out?
the one at home is hooked up to my PC so 500mAh
the one in the office is 2A
the original 1A that came with the phone is in my night desk
I have 3 and just cycle them in order. If I know I'm leaving for the whole day, I'll just take an extra with me.
3 with an external charger seems perfect for me.
AllGamer said:
the one at home is hooked up to my PC so 500mAh
the one in the office is 2A
the original 1A that came with the phone is in my night desk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if you saw my Edit ... i saw you said it will not charge the phone, only the spare battery. Does this hold true even when the spare is full? when the spare is pulled out of the charger? If so im kinda confused as to why it has a USB plug for the phone if it wont charge the phone too.
The amazing thing is... since I've moved to this T989
i hardly need to swap batteries at all now... i've only done it a total of 3 times so far since i got the phone, that's almost a month ago.
back on the Nexus S... LOL i'll probably go through 2 battery swap each day, that's why i always carried spare batteries with me
so now I carry 1 and is plenty.
this T989 is really incredible in battery life
The_Biz said:
I have 3 and just cycle them in order. If I know I'm leaving for the whole day, I'll just take an extra with me.
3 with an external charger seems perfect for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wareazy said:
Not sure if you saw my Edit ... i saw you said it will not charge the phone, only the spare battery. Does this hold true even when the spare is full? when the spare is pulled out of the charger? If so im kinda confused as to why it has a USB plug for the phone if it wont charge the phone too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the only time i charge directly to the phone is when i go to sleep
otherwise i'll just let it run down to aprox 14~15% when the Low battery alert pops up, then i switch the battery pack
Wareazy said:
If it wont charge the phone whats the point of this thing? to just charge the spare battery?
Will it charge the phone once the spare is charged? Once its taken out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it only charges the battery, it doesn't charge the phone
i just those stand, as a stand for easy access to the phone
is like having an extra hand
and it doesn't fall down, like those Cases with a build in Leg
I own this as well and can confirm its amazing especially when Android backuping or flashing a rom it holds your phone so you can see it from across the room its a portable stand for your phone that's tiny elegant and lightweight that also contains an extra battery and charges it. Recommended.
Sent from my SGH-T989
Are there different verisions of this external charger?
Are there different Versions of this charger or are they the same.
Will the AT&T GS2 version of this charger or maybe the Verizon Galaxy Nexus version work for our TMO T989 GS2?
On ebay they all look the same and most are for the AT&T ver.
This is the one I am thinking of getting. The description says it works with either but all the other docks/chargers like this on ebay specifically say it will not work for our t989.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-GAL...610792?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3a6fe87e28
Thanks,
JK
minoch said:
Are there different Versions of this charger or are they the same.
Will the AT&T GS2 version of this charger or maybe the Verizon Galaxy Nexus version work for our TMO T989 GS2?
On ebay they all look the same and most are for the AT&T ver.
This is the one I am thinking of getting. The description says it works with either but all the other docks/chargers like this on ebay specifically say it will not work for our t989.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-GAL...610792?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3a6fe87e28
Thanks,
JK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please report back and tell us if it works. I'm looking for a cheap way to charge my extra GN battery
Sent from my SGH-T989
Decided to buy the T-Mobile Spare battery charging system from my local TMO store. The one on ebay might have worked but it was in China. I did not want to wait a month for their shipping. Got 3 batteries now. Nice to have the power problem covered. The external charger is nice it charges very fast too.
JK
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Does it fit with the galaxy nexus extended battery
Sent from my SGH-T989
I only have the oem 1850mAh batteries. The Galaxy Nexus battery should fit but the little lid on the charger may not close completely but it should charge fine.
JK
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Put battery in external charger when it dropped to 15% on phone
It fully charged in under 2 hours.
JK
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium

[Q] A100 Powers OFF when charger is connected.

Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
PocketFuzz said:
Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Tried connection without battery
pio_masaki said:
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
PocketFuzz said:
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
one more try
pio_masaki said:
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
PocketFuzz said:
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
hmmm an idea for the brave
pio_masaki said:
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I could figure out a way to charge the battery OTHER than through the board - I would! Which got me to thinking. One COULD get a second rear panel, cut a door in it, install teensy weensy hinges or create a hinge with cloth tape. then make some sort of extension cord for the battery charging cord, plug it in to the "external" charging board and refill the battery that way.
With a working board and the right know how, one could just extract the board, put it in a box and make a charger out of it too.
But that is just my brain rattling around ideas. :silly: Hopefully this new "refurbished" mother board will do the trick and I will learn my lesson and NEVER let a sales "tech" attempt trial adapters! at 10 minutes to 9pm tonight it was in Texas....
Until I CANNOT use it, I didn't realize how MUCH I used this little tablet!
now it blinks orange?
Oh fer cryin out loud! The motherboard has arrived, I have installed it. Can plug n the charger and drop it onto the docking station and now I get the same response for both charging options: Charge LED lights up orange solid for just about 60 seconds, then begins blinking. Device doesn't respond when power button is pushed UNLESS it is plugged in, and then it just sits at the "ACER" screen.led changes to blue.
OK, wait a minute, this is the third time I have turned it on while plugged in. Acer screen has moved to Android, Device has started. Battery icon showing a question mark. 23%
Turned off, turned back on, now battery shows only 3%????
Think I saw something on the forums about that. will go on a quest.
Finally charging again!
Shhh, don't want to disturb my device....
Found folks on other forums with similar issues of the Acer A100 tablet showing only 3% charge. I removed and inserted the charging pin several times, the device would show solid orange led for about one minute then start blinking. Turned the device on when charger plugged in, unlocked the screen, then with device still plugged in I shut it down completely. Removed charger. Plugged it back in and so far the led is staying at solid orange.
Please keep your fingers crossed for me! This has been quite the roller coaster ride of discovery. Will leave it be for overnight (what is left of the overnight). Then peek at it in the morning. With any luck at all it will have accepted a full charge and I will be greeted with a functioning device! I almost want to learn a new trade..
well now that is weird, got up this morning to a nice blue charge indicator. Yay! Unplugged charger, press on button, hold, hold, hold, hold, hold and device does not start up. Dang it! Plugged it back in, led went solid orange, then started blinking again! Pressed and held on button. Device came on. battery meter shows 3% and a question mark! HUH?
have device plugged in, settings of course show android version 3.2.1 for this motherboard. Guess I need to upgrade it to ICS maybe that will resolve this weird battery issue? Hope soemone here has ideas, feels like I am soooo close to resolving this.
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
frischeis said:
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really hope other isn't any voltage or amperage changes needed of that can blow that battery up real quick, plus it can't stop charging, you'll need to monitor that yourself.
Thanks for the info though, it does appear to be yet another somewhat common bug these have that can be addressed by a user if they feel the need to.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
frischeis said:
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was saying the board is in charge of cutting the battery charge off, not the charger itself so maybe keep an eye on it, its a good way for an explosion or fire.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
A100 tablet not charging still
Frischies is much braver than I am.
Wiring the battery direct to the charging port- I would definitely worry about burning up the battery or causing a fire - especially while charging when I sleep. I have had more than my fair share of run ins with fire.
The Motherboard I ordered arrived and I installed it. It was listed as "factory refurbished", but unfortunately will not accept a charge. I thought it had charged overnight at one point, but all it does is blink orange and the battery reads 3% or 0%. Turning the device off when plugged in and doing a reset has not helped. The vendor has been gracious to do a replacement, so I will follow that route until I get a working motherboard.
I have discovered that the docking station will be a welcome addition to my Acer tablet paraphernalia! Although this model docking station isn't the one that allows HDMI throughput, it still will be nice for music, and other media. A Bluetooth keyboard and the tablet will offer yet another computer tool!
First things first though, get the tablet to accept a charge - until then it is a really wide flat paper weight! I am getting VERY adept at opening the tablet and removing the internals!
It is working again! The motherboard sent was defective but vendor issued an RMA. Received the replacement yesterday, installed it last night. Charged over night and fully functional this morning! Ahhh it feels good to have my little buddy back again. Didn't realize how much I used it, until I couldn't use it! Thanks to all for the help.
Sent from my A100 using xda app-developers app

[Q] external battery charging

recently purchased an extended battery and an external universal charger for my Verizon Galaxy Nexus. There were no instructions for actually charging the battery. There are 4 terminals on the battery. There is a + and - printed on the new and the old batteries, but they do not line up with a particular terminal on the battery. Also the universal wall charger has 2 probes that do the charging, they are both mobile (can slide left or right) and neither one is labeled. Any help about which probe and or terminal would be appreciated. Thank you.
ambrous1 said:
recently purchased an extended battery and an external universal charger for my Verizon Galaxy Nexus. There were no instructions for actually charging the battery. There are 4 terminals on the battery. There is a + and - printed on the new and the old batteries, but they do not line up with a particular terminal on the battery. Also the universal wall charger has 2 probes that do the charging, they are both mobile (can slide left or right) and neither one is labeled. Any help about which probe and or terminal would be appreciated. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you post some pictures?
I don't know if you have the same kind, but my pictures might help point you in the right direction...
One of the pictures shows the top view where you can barely see the + and - terminals. Another picture shows where the contacts touch to charge the battery. Finally on my charger, you have to kind of wiggle it to get it to start charging (I suppose to make sure the contacts are actually touching well enough to get conductivity) and I usually have to play with the two buttons to get it into the right mode. Mine didn't come with a manual so I don't know what they actually do.
On mine, when it is actually charging, the green light flashes. It stops flashing when it's done charging.

[Q] Tablet Refuses to power on

Hello XDA members. I have a very troublesome issue with my galaxy tab 3 7.0 inch tablet. It will NOT turn on at all, no battery charging, no device power on, no comp recognition, nothing. I have already tried:
Letting it charge overnight (factory charger along with others) with several known working cables
Unplug battery for 5 minutes
Press and hold power, Vol Down, and home for 10 sec, 30 sec, and 1 minute
Press and hold power and vol down for 10,30,60 seconds.
I sent it in for repair and they wouldnt fix it because it's rooted. When I got it back it briefly turned on to the battery charging, but nothing since. I'm thinking there must have been some way they got it on.... All proper drivers are installed on PC and it's never been dropped, water damaged, etc.
Would anyone be able to provide insight as to why and provide a fix?
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was that from computer or wall?
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a97antonio said:
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still no luck... I can feel the tablet getting hot down at the charge port so I know it's charging, and i know the lcd isn't damaged.
Mine is in the same condition. Anyone know how or why this happens and how to fix it?
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
Not sure if this will help, but just like with phones, sometimes android tablets just need a battery pull. My kids xo tablet went dead and before I tossed it in the trash I took the housing off and had to clip the + wire since it was soldered to the board. Twisted it back together to check and sure enough the tablet powered on like normal. Ive had to pull the battery on an Sm-t217a and it was a lot easier. They have a removable clip that attaches to the board.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
xkn0s said:
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even know where to start with the wiring. Multimeter isn't something I have access to, and it seems a little complicated for me to spend time on.
When I say it's flashing, I mean the device powers on to the battery charging screen, then dies, wash rinse repeat. If I go into recovery, same thing. It all happens within a couple seconds, so it's hard to describe.
My dad has one that I can pull the battery from, I might do that. Batteries are like 20 bucks on amazon, so I think I'll test with my Dads and if it works just order a battery and report back here.
similar problem here
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start. First time it was fixed by opening the device and disconnecting the battery. Now that doesn't help anymore. If I attach the original charger and measure the voltage when the device has rested for some months I can see that the voltage slowly rises so it seems to do the charging even if there is no sign of charging on the screen. After some hours of charging I measure 3,78V on the battery, after disconnecting the battery.
If I attach the battery and turn on the device I measure 3,76V before I push the start button and 3,74V directly after pushing the button. After about 15s the voltage goes back to 3,76V. Nothing happens on the screen... Tried with different combinations of pushing on-button and volume up, volume down, menu....
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
magnusn68 said:
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start.
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The better way to test if your tablet can turn on: buy a new battery, under $15 on Ebay since your old battery is dead or completely drained.
Use the new battery to turn on your tablet. If it's on, check the build number of your device after go to About My Device: if it's not end with OB1, the latest firmware which fix charging issue.
It's more likely your build number is MK1 to NI1, the build numbers count by alphabet order. Upgrade the software via Wifi, battery must be at least 25%, otherwise your tablet won't allow you to upgrade. Bring the firmware to the current OB1, your tablet should take charge normally, otherwise the USB charging port is defective or damaged. This micro USB is cheap, around $2, but it need to solder to motherboard to replace the defective one.

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