Related
I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
This is actually a decent request and wouldn't mind a solution.
Laptops don't need the battery in to work via AC/DC. Would be great if HTC would wire these devices so as to behave without the dependency of the battery all the time.
i wouldn't agree more... htc only works with batery inserted, and i would like too take it off and work with just the adapter
Get an after market battery?
shahriar5252 said:
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once the battery is fully charged the charging stops. The device is going to get hot from just being on and communication with sprint for the navigation regardless of the battery.
shahriar5252 said:
I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tito:
No, not an after-market battery. The idea is to be able to work with HTC devices using only external power without the battery being in the device. As of now, all HTC PDAs require the battery to be in the device to turn on even when you are using external power to power up the device. The wiring of all HTC PDAs allow an external power supply to function in only recharging the battery--not powering up the device. The wiring of HTC PDAs require that only the battery be able to power up the device. The problem is when you are trying to use the device for a long time for applications such as navigation system, the act of using the battery to keep the device on and recharging it at the same time will heat up the battery, and the device turns off. I am asking the community whether anyone has a suggestion about how to modify the device to enable an external power supply to turn on the device directly with out the battery being in the device. Please re-read my original power that started this thread for more info. Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my understanding batteries should have low internal resistance, so I don't see how hooking up a resistor will help here. Do you know whether HTC has a chip in its batteries so that the device could only recognize its batteries and thereby exclude after-market batteries? A recognition chip in the battery could explain why my device will not turn on even when I connect together all the battery prongs on my Spring Mogul (PPC6800) and the red no-battery light goes away. If there is a chip in the battery, is there a way to harvest its program and put it on a blank chip and connect it to the device battery holder's prongs to turn on the devise? Thanks for your suggestions.
rsw686 said:
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car charger that I have is a Motorola and has a fuse in it to break circuit in case of a power surge. I think we just need to find a way to power up the device without needing the battery. Any other suggestions? Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These suggestion will not work because I think HTC batteries have a chip in them to stop excess recharging. Therefore the device needs to recognize the battery chip's permission to turn on itself. See my next post for how the recharging works on Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800).
I would appreciate any other suggestions.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I want to be able to use the HTC device using an external power supply without the battery in the device.
Possible solution using a new cooked up ROM:
My Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800) has an LED that turns orange when I plug in the device for recharging, and the battery normally gets warmed up as the battery is being recharged. The orange LED will turn green once the battery is fully charged, and then the battery cools. Once the LED is green and the device is still plugged in to an external power supply, the fully recharged battery remains cool even if it is being used for intensive applications. From this observation, I am guessing that HTC batteries or the device itself must have a chip in them that sense the amount of charge in the battery and shup down further recharging of the battery so as to prevent overcharging the battery.
If so, can someone find out how a new ROM can be cooked up to trick the device or the battery into thinking that the battery is fully charged and thereby prevent the battery from being charged when the owner wants to use the device on external power without recharging the battery?
Of course, this must be a reversible thing to do.
I did this last year, but haven't put much time into perfecting it
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
curiousandroid said:
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you did the soldering of the connections because when I hooked them using wires, it did not work. A red LED would come on and the phone would not turn on. So go ahead and post your pictures to see what you did. Thanks.
Here's my working design
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Here's my working design
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
curiousandroid said:
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
curiousandroid said:
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. The pictures that you attached are too small to see what is connected to what. From what I understand, you are trying to use NiMH rechargeable batteries of non-rechargeable AAA batteries in place of the original battery. How do you fit AAA batteries in there? What exactly did you soldier to what? A schematic hand diagram would be nice in addition to zoomed-in photos.
I was more thinking of buying another battery for the phone from ebay for about $10 and taking its gut out and putting resistors inside the battery so that the batteries voltage would be the same. This way, if I want to make long travels in my car with Sprint Navigation on the whole time, the battery would continually get power from the car charger and put out the same voltage for the PDA device.
I am worried about the original battery having a device-recognition chip in it to regulate the charging of the battery or stopping the charging if the battery gets too hot. From what you are describing, the battery does not seem to have an internal chip that can regulate battery activity or turn off the device when the battery gets too hot. I hope this is the case of my new Sprint/HTC Touch Pro (I used to have a Sprint/HTC Mogul).
It would be nice to get a 2nd battery from ebay, take out its gut, and fit small resistors there, and render it as a "fake" battery. This way, I will be able to swap the real battery with the fake one whenever I have to use Navigation system in my car. And by attaching the car charger to the device's USB, I can power up the device through the fake battery without having to worry about battery drainage or turning off of the device from recharging and using the battery at the same time. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this or have you tried to do this yourself?
sorry about the pic, the forum wouldnt let me upload full sized version, i'll try to us a link instead and put it on photobucket.
I think the regulatory chip for lithium batteries is normally stored in the battery pack itself, you cant see it unless you peel off the plastic layer on the outside of the battery, also inside the pack you will find a couple of generic lithium cells, that can be replaced with same voltage/size cells from many other pda/phone battery packs, though it does require a bit of careful soldiering the cells to the regulatory chip and battery harness. BTW "AAA" batteries don't actually fit in the device, but i plugged them in via usb battery pack to the usb plug i soldiered into the device. I suppose it may be possible to fit 3 "AAAA" batteries in the device since they are thinner, but they probably wouldn't last too long between charges.
the reg chip probably connects through the middle 4 prongs that I don't use [+||||-]
Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
PocketFuzz said:
Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Tried connection without battery
pio_masaki said:
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
PocketFuzz said:
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
one more try
pio_masaki said:
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
PocketFuzz said:
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
hmmm an idea for the brave
pio_masaki said:
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I could figure out a way to charge the battery OTHER than through the board - I would! Which got me to thinking. One COULD get a second rear panel, cut a door in it, install teensy weensy hinges or create a hinge with cloth tape. then make some sort of extension cord for the battery charging cord, plug it in to the "external" charging board and refill the battery that way.
With a working board and the right know how, one could just extract the board, put it in a box and make a charger out of it too.
But that is just my brain rattling around ideas. :silly: Hopefully this new "refurbished" mother board will do the trick and I will learn my lesson and NEVER let a sales "tech" attempt trial adapters! at 10 minutes to 9pm tonight it was in Texas....
Until I CANNOT use it, I didn't realize how MUCH I used this little tablet!
now it blinks orange?
Oh fer cryin out loud! The motherboard has arrived, I have installed it. Can plug n the charger and drop it onto the docking station and now I get the same response for both charging options: Charge LED lights up orange solid for just about 60 seconds, then begins blinking. Device doesn't respond when power button is pushed UNLESS it is plugged in, and then it just sits at the "ACER" screen.led changes to blue.
OK, wait a minute, this is the third time I have turned it on while plugged in. Acer screen has moved to Android, Device has started. Battery icon showing a question mark. 23%
Turned off, turned back on, now battery shows only 3%????
Think I saw something on the forums about that. will go on a quest.
Finally charging again!
Shhh, don't want to disturb my device....
Found folks on other forums with similar issues of the Acer A100 tablet showing only 3% charge. I removed and inserted the charging pin several times, the device would show solid orange led for about one minute then start blinking. Turned the device on when charger plugged in, unlocked the screen, then with device still plugged in I shut it down completely. Removed charger. Plugged it back in and so far the led is staying at solid orange.
Please keep your fingers crossed for me! This has been quite the roller coaster ride of discovery. Will leave it be for overnight (what is left of the overnight). Then peek at it in the morning. With any luck at all it will have accepted a full charge and I will be greeted with a functioning device! I almost want to learn a new trade..
well now that is weird, got up this morning to a nice blue charge indicator. Yay! Unplugged charger, press on button, hold, hold, hold, hold, hold and device does not start up. Dang it! Plugged it back in, led went solid orange, then started blinking again! Pressed and held on button. Device came on. battery meter shows 3% and a question mark! HUH?
have device plugged in, settings of course show android version 3.2.1 for this motherboard. Guess I need to upgrade it to ICS maybe that will resolve this weird battery issue? Hope soemone here has ideas, feels like I am soooo close to resolving this.
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
frischeis said:
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really hope other isn't any voltage or amperage changes needed of that can blow that battery up real quick, plus it can't stop charging, you'll need to monitor that yourself.
Thanks for the info though, it does appear to be yet another somewhat common bug these have that can be addressed by a user if they feel the need to.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
frischeis said:
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was saying the board is in charge of cutting the battery charge off, not the charger itself so maybe keep an eye on it, its a good way for an explosion or fire.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
A100 tablet not charging still
Frischies is much braver than I am.
Wiring the battery direct to the charging port- I would definitely worry about burning up the battery or causing a fire - especially while charging when I sleep. I have had more than my fair share of run ins with fire.
The Motherboard I ordered arrived and I installed it. It was listed as "factory refurbished", but unfortunately will not accept a charge. I thought it had charged overnight at one point, but all it does is blink orange and the battery reads 3% or 0%. Turning the device off when plugged in and doing a reset has not helped. The vendor has been gracious to do a replacement, so I will follow that route until I get a working motherboard.
I have discovered that the docking station will be a welcome addition to my Acer tablet paraphernalia! Although this model docking station isn't the one that allows HDMI throughput, it still will be nice for music, and other media. A Bluetooth keyboard and the tablet will offer yet another computer tool!
First things first though, get the tablet to accept a charge - until then it is a really wide flat paper weight! I am getting VERY adept at opening the tablet and removing the internals!
It is working again! The motherboard sent was defective but vendor issued an RMA. Received the replacement yesterday, installed it last night. Charged over night and fully functional this morning! Ahhh it feels good to have my little buddy back again. Didn't realize how much I used it, until I couldn't use it! Thanks to all for the help.
Sent from my A100 using xda app-developers app
The other day I plugged in the Note 8 at night, all was fine. When I picked it up the next day, it was totally dead. There is no charging light. I have tried several chargers. I have tried holding down the power button for over a minute. I took the back off and pulled the battery and reinstalled it. Nothing. Tried multiple chargers (all of which are in working order and several that were used to charge this device previously)
Could this possibly be a bad battery? I would try replacing the battery if it seemed like a possibility, but I've never had a battery go instantly bad. It would make more sense if it just wasn't holding a charge but the charging light would still be on.
It's just out of warranty by a month. Anyone think it's worth spending the money on a new battery?
Thanks in advance for any wisdom
My 5110 does not have a removable battery, though I had two bad samsung USB charging cables, and went to Blackberry and Samsung cables. My second Samsung cable melted down and just about caused a fire at the tablet's connector.
gooberdude said:
My 5110 does not have a removable battery, though I had two bad samsung USB charging cables, and went to Blackberry and Samsung cables. My second Samsung cable melted down and just about caused a fire at the tablet's connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your response. It's not officially removable, but it just involves removing the back and then 8 screws. I'm certain it's not a cable problem. I've tried most every cable and charger I have and they all work on other devices.
I guess I'm a little confused. Where is the charging light? There aren't any LED's on the 5110 and the charger doesn't have any either.
As mentioned, the Note 8's battery is not intended to be replacable, as other phone batteries are. It is doable, and would be my first attempt as it sounds like you've tried multiple chargers.
Beyond that, I doubt anyone here would be able to diagnose without seeing it personally.
Charging light
Eodmule said:
I guess I'm a little confused. Where is the charging light? There aren't any LED's on the 5110 and the charger doesn't have any either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I have to admit it, I cannot actually remember what it looked like when powered off and charging (mainly because it is rarely powered off). Can someone tell me - Isn't there a battery symbol that displays in the middle of the screen? If so, even if the battery was totally honked, my uneducated guess is that it would still show the battery symbol perhaps with a yellow triangle.
If there is not supposed to be any charging indication at all, then my hopes are higher, because that's what I see.
Either way, I've got a battery on order, so I'll let you know what happens.
pro450 said:
Ok, I have to admit it, I cannot actually remember what it looked like when powered off and charging (mainly because it is rarely powered off). Can someone tell me - Isn't there a battery symbol that displays in the middle of the screen? If so, even if the battery was totally honked, my uneducated guess is that it would still show the battery symbol perhaps with a yellow triangle.
If there is not supposed to be any charging indication at all, then my hopes are higher, because that's what I see.
Either way, I've got a battery on order, so I'll let you know what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only battery indicators are on the screen. When it's powered off and charging you should see the battery in the center charging up. If the battery is hosed it'd be like no battery is in there at all, and on Samsung devices you won't see anything on the screen if no battery is present while power is plugged in.
My clients frequently have the microUSB port (charger port) go bad on tablets in general. If you've got a can of air, blow out the inside of that port (You can also use a compressed air line, but be a little more careful with that). You might also benefit by checking out the condition of the contact pins in there.
Other than that, try a different cable and a different USB charging brick. Try to use the original one that came with it, then try one that has an output of at least 1 amp (The one that came with mine was a 2 amp, but it charges alright with 1 amp). And check your outlet. It sounds stupid, but you never know.
Hello XDA members. I have a very troublesome issue with my galaxy tab 3 7.0 inch tablet. It will NOT turn on at all, no battery charging, no device power on, no comp recognition, nothing. I have already tried:
Letting it charge overnight (factory charger along with others) with several known working cables
Unplug battery for 5 minutes
Press and hold power, Vol Down, and home for 10 sec, 30 sec, and 1 minute
Press and hold power and vol down for 10,30,60 seconds.
I sent it in for repair and they wouldnt fix it because it's rooted. When I got it back it briefly turned on to the battery charging, but nothing since. I'm thinking there must have been some way they got it on.... All proper drivers are installed on PC and it's never been dropped, water damaged, etc.
Would anyone be able to provide insight as to why and provide a fix?
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was that from computer or wall?
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a97antonio said:
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still no luck... I can feel the tablet getting hot down at the charge port so I know it's charging, and i know the lcd isn't damaged.
Mine is in the same condition. Anyone know how or why this happens and how to fix it?
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
Not sure if this will help, but just like with phones, sometimes android tablets just need a battery pull. My kids xo tablet went dead and before I tossed it in the trash I took the housing off and had to clip the + wire since it was soldered to the board. Twisted it back together to check and sure enough the tablet powered on like normal. Ive had to pull the battery on an Sm-t217a and it was a lot easier. They have a removable clip that attaches to the board.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
xkn0s said:
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even know where to start with the wiring. Multimeter isn't something I have access to, and it seems a little complicated for me to spend time on.
When I say it's flashing, I mean the device powers on to the battery charging screen, then dies, wash rinse repeat. If I go into recovery, same thing. It all happens within a couple seconds, so it's hard to describe.
My dad has one that I can pull the battery from, I might do that. Batteries are like 20 bucks on amazon, so I think I'll test with my Dads and if it works just order a battery and report back here.
similar problem here
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start. First time it was fixed by opening the device and disconnecting the battery. Now that doesn't help anymore. If I attach the original charger and measure the voltage when the device has rested for some months I can see that the voltage slowly rises so it seems to do the charging even if there is no sign of charging on the screen. After some hours of charging I measure 3,78V on the battery, after disconnecting the battery.
If I attach the battery and turn on the device I measure 3,76V before I push the start button and 3,74V directly after pushing the button. After about 15s the voltage goes back to 3,76V. Nothing happens on the screen... Tried with different combinations of pushing on-button and volume up, volume down, menu....
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
magnusn68 said:
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start.
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The better way to test if your tablet can turn on: buy a new battery, under $15 on Ebay since your old battery is dead or completely drained.
Use the new battery to turn on your tablet. If it's on, check the build number of your device after go to About My Device: if it's not end with OB1, the latest firmware which fix charging issue.
It's more likely your build number is MK1 to NI1, the build numbers count by alphabet order. Upgrade the software via Wifi, battery must be at least 25%, otherwise your tablet won't allow you to upgrade. Bring the firmware to the current OB1, your tablet should take charge normally, otherwise the USB charging port is defective or damaged. This micro USB is cheap, around $2, but it need to solder to motherboard to replace the defective one.
Hi there,
I have received this Galaxy Tab 3 (SM-T311) and it does not turn on nor charge.
I have tried the various suggested button presses, I have tried unplugging the battery for a while. Now I am leaving it to charge but this was already tested by the previous owner with no success.
I would like to find out if charger circuit, battery or motherboard need replacement.
I have tested with a multimeter that battery leads show 3.7V - with charger plugged or not. With battery removed the leads show a value of 0.4V.
Can somebody help to figure out whether it is a battery problem, a charger circuit problem or a motherboard problem? I think it might be one of the first two since battery charge should not be so low.
Thanks
By the way, I have already been through this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2VJ_VRIRSI
Which comes from this blog post: http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-3-Won-t-Charge-or-Turn-On---How-to-Fix.shtml
I am not using the original charger and cable but a 2A one, sorry but I do not believe that the original USB cable and PSU would be any different it's like with HDMI, it's a standard. The only thing that could change is the power intensity which is 2A as per original.
hyklamin77 said:
By the way, I have already been through this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2VJ_VRIRSI
Which comes from this blog post: http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-3-Won-t-Charge-or-Turn-On---How-to-Fix.shtml
I am not using the original charger and cable but a 2A one, sorry but I do not believe that the original USB cable and PSU would be any different it's like with HDMI, it's a standard. The only thing that could change is the power intensity which is 2A as per original.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I can't help, except to say it sounds just like my problem. I'd been using mine mainly as a clock/alarm clock using a great alarm app. The battery was good enough to last about 15 or more hours with a clock display on, but then I left for a 2 week vacation, and decided to turn the tablet off rather than leave it on a charger. Came back and it was dead.
I also did all sorts of button presses, used various chargers and cables (I have the original charger, which works for other devices, but didn't help). I disconnected the battery for several hours. Tried charging off a computer USB-2 port. etc, etc. Still, "It's dead, Jim".
I suspect it's the battery, which is pretty old now, and has been left on the charger a lot lately, though not 24 hours a day. Lithium batteries don't like to go totally dead, but I guess that's what happened. If the tablet were still useful to me, I'd try a cheap one from Amazon, not really expecting it to last a long time, but useful to see if it works without losing too much.
I've seen one repair tech who fixed a similar problem by disconnecting the battery and connecting it to a power supply briefly to give the battery enough of a charge to get the phone to start charging it normally. Obviously, this is something that mere mortals would not be able to do.