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i love using my big over the head 3.5mm headphone but for some reason when i connect them to the tp2, it seems as if the sound police stopped by and took the sound away. Is their any part of the registry that is keeping the 3.5mm headset volume that low or are they always going to be that low?
Woa, Bro.First you tell me where you got that 3.5MM Rhodium!!! Please!! I am also using T-mobile.
i'm talking about the adapter
adapter piece.
rickyteddyb said:
adapter piece.
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hi ricky, i use my tp2 through an miniUSB->3.5mm adapter, and it can drive my Sennheiser HD 555 without low volume problem... considering the headphone is quite big... *in term of size, load and impedance*
yet it doesn't sound as great as if i plug my Senn into builtin 3.5mm jack on my sex1... *an eargasm that is*
which Headphone you were using bro...?
alternatively, you have to use Coreplayer to play music since it has (digital) preamp capability, Menu -> Tools -> Preference -> Audio, there you can set your preamp gain you wanted.
hope it helps...
i use the G1s 3.5mm adapter & it doesn't work with my iPod headphones that have the mic on them. The volume is way too low as well.
Did a quick search and wanted to bump this topic. I am having the same problem with the built in 3.5mm jack (Telus CDMA). The speaker actually seems louder then the earphones. This is however just recent. So was wondering if another program may have over written some reg settings and if so, where I would check to change them back and/or boost the audio out. P.S. I am aware of Core Player Pre-amp and the Audio booster and these are not the problem or solution I am looking for
Thanks for any feedback
rickyteddyb said:
i love using my big over the head 3.5mm headphone but for some reason when i connect them to the tp2, it seems as if the sound police stopped by and took the sound away. Is their any part of the registry that is keeping the 3.5mm headset volume that low or are they always going to be that low?
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Mine works just fine, surprisingly
I'm no expert, but I think that these devices don't have the power to drive large over the head headphones. The where designed with in-ear phones in mind I'm sure.
Portable players benefit from portable amps to drive over the head headphones.
Either get some earphones or a portable amp.
BTW my Shure SE530 are very loud with my Tilt 2 and sound great.
Anyone else seeing very low audio levels through the car dock? Anyone have a fix for this?
(example, my car radio through the dock is turned up to 36 and is still lower than the handset itself when the radio is set to 20-25)
I haven't noticed the audio being any quieter but I have noticed the quality isn't as good as some other phones i've owned. When at full volume it seems to peak easily on the highs and lows. I assume you've turned the volume up when the audio jack is plugged into the phone?
seriouslyjeff said:
I haven't noticed the audio being any quieter but I have noticed the quality isn't as good as some other phones i've owned. When at full volume it seems to peak easily on the highs and lows. I assume you've turned the volume up when the audio jack is plugged into the phone?
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yeah, the volume is all the way up. I'm going to test my room mates car dock and see if maybe i just got a defect.
seriouslyjeff said:
I haven't noticed the audio being any quieter but I have noticed the quality isn't as good as some other phones i've owned. When at full volume it seems to peak easily on the highs and lows. I assume you've turned the volume up when the audio jack is plugged into the phone?
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Did you try messing with the phone eq settings?
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App
Jon225 said:
Did you try messing with the phone eq settings?
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App
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I messed with the eq settings and they don't seem to effect the output much. I tried my roommates dock and his is rather low output too. ('m only compairing the output difference from the headphone jack to the dock output.)
I took apart the dock to see if I could find any modifiable pieces, but it simply has two boards (one for input one for output) and a few unidentifiable chips (probably usb ID and audio decoder built in) As for now, I've just stopped using it. Gonna call Motorola Monday, to see if they have any advice.
Yeah, i'm having the same problem
Try to get them to send you another one to try. Mine sounds the same as just using the 3.5mm jack.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App
Jon225 said:
Try to get them to send you another one to try. Mine sounds the same as just using the 3.5mm jack.
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Wait.. you guys have a car dock that has audio out but doesn't use the 3.5mm jack? Audio out from what? HDMI?
What's the name of this car dock?
Shizlak said:
Wait.. you guys have a car dock that has audio out but doesn't use the 3.5mm jack? Audio out from what? HDMI?
What's the name of this car dock?
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Yeah, the Motorola one has audio out of the micro usb.
Called Motorola, and after about 5 minutes of, 'turn your phone off then back on' bs, the lady told me to return it to at&t. I'm amazed at the level of superior customer service. /sarcasm
At this point, if anyone is interested, there is a product called Boostaroo that will boost 3.5mm headphone jack output, and it runs on 12v. I'm probably going to pick one of these up and wire it inline with my car dock. They are about $50, which sucks, but if it'll work, I'll be happy. Will advise when I get it in.
My wife and I just tried her Atrix in her car both via 3.5 mm and USB and both sounded the same. Maybe you do have a bad phone *shrugs* I will try to go check on mine after it charges, if I remember.
Sounds fine from my car dock, same as my iPhone that was hooked up through a direct iPod video cable. How are you plugging it into your headunit in your car?
I have a 3.5mm aux port, and we've tried both phones, on both docks, and get the same result.
I have the car dock and the level is great. Yesterday I was listening to music while parked. I got a text and the volume went low after the text message and stayed low.. I think it went back up after the next text or something weird like that...
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
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Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
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I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
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Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
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Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
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haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
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Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
Just bought a used/refurbished Tab 3 7.0 from Amazon.
The sound quality when connected to a stereo cable going to my truck's stereo aux in is VERY poor, scratchy, staticy and only hitting the left channel well.
However, when i try headphones, it sounds fine.
I have, for basic troubleshooting purposes:
-Know that the aux in jack in the truck is fine... it works with my HTC ONE and other devices i've tried.
-Know that the stereo audio cable(s) im using are fine. Again, used them with multiple devices to troubleshoot.
-Used multiple headphones and earphones to troubleshoot. I even used my skull candy's with detachable audio cable, then immediately tried that cable in the truck.
Audio is "tolorable" if the tablet is set to 40% or less, but that requires cranking the truck WAY higher then it should be.
Once i hit 50% of volume, it starts sounding like crap, and once i hit 70% its unusable.
However, with any earphones or headphones, i can push it all the way to 100% without distortion (and no, not wearing them while i do it)
Im thinking a software issue somewhere.
The tablet says "earphones connected" no matter which cable i plug in, headphones or aux cable.
Also, in accessibility the "mono if using a single earpiece" box is UNCHECKED.
I have the exact same issue. Were you able to figure it out?
EDIT: I found this link where safariking made a zip file to remove bloatware. I ran it and my sound is vastly improved.
Good Luck and remove bloatware at your own risk.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2497110
When I plug in my headphones to the HTC, it acknowledges that they are plugged in as the headphone symbol shows up but no sound comes when I play a video or a game. These headphones came with the phone too. BUT when I use these same headphones on my iPhone it works perfectly, so I know something is wrong with the HTC, not the headphones. Other headphones also don't work on the HTC. Only the HTC's inbuilt speakers work but no sound from headphones. Do anyone know how to fix this problem?
Choco69 said:
When I plug in my headphones to the HTC, it acknowledges that they are plugged in as the headphone symbol shows up but no sound comes when I play a video or a game. These headphones came with the phone too. BUT when I use these same headphones on my iPhone it works perfectly, so I know something is wrong with the HTC, not the headphones. Other headphones also don't work on the HTC. Only the HTC's inbuilt speakers work but no sound from headphones. Do anyone know how to fix this problem?
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Could be your headphone jack. It may be possible to replace it yourself, or pay someone to do it for you.
Headphone jack, probably worn out or has crap in it clogging it up. Mine is still working well with headphones but no dice with my car headphone to aux cable. The cable is probably outdated. I have 3rd party headphones that worked well at first but now the microphone is acting up during calls and boomsound "glitches" on and off now and again. Headphones are in good - very good condition but I can't rule out an internal break in the wire.
I would be inclined to say that the m9 has sensitive electronics attached to the headphone jack and any short circuits or voltage/amperage/resistance discrepancies would be picked up to protect the rest of the sound system. Headphone jacks tend to arc too which is why you get a thump in speakers when you connect or disconnect the jack.
Beamed in by telepathy.