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Hello,
I somehow managed to burn my kindle fire down by accidentally pluging it to an stereo amps output jack. It turned off instantly and never have got it past the TWRP boot logo nor with a factory cable or the motherboard short circuiting the connections mentioned on another thread. Nothing works.
So, I searched for a new motherboard, found one and ordered it on ebay. Did not receive it within 1,5 months. Seller made a refund. Now I am searching for another one but cant seem to find any place where to get a replacement mobo. I would really like to go the road that consists of just the mobo, not the whole kindle with a broken screen or smth as I do not want to receive a piece of crap that has been floating in the pool for a week and then sold as "just broken screen, returns not accepted".
In conclusion- if any one of you could point me in any direction I would be really really grateful.
Thanks in advance.
Have you tried resetting the bootmode?
[Edit:] Nothing about your statement makes a whole lot of sense. Typically, when your device hangs at the boot screen, it means it's in fastboot and is usually as simple as changing the bootmode to normal. A factory cable wouldn't work because it forces the device into fastboot mode. The shorting trick is just as useless because it boots the device into USBboot mode. Besides, if you had fried your motherboard I don't think your device would even turn on.
[Edit:] What I think is more likely, assuming your amp output is a USB micro-b connector, is the connector is probably configured in the same way as a factory cable, forcing you into fastboot.
if you mean like with the kfu to set to normal boot mode- nothing, absolutely nothing there is mentioned on this forum works as something is fried near to the audio output jack, did not see any burnt resistors or anything else, but I am sure something is really f*ed up on the board itself where setting any bootmodes won't help.
It seems that the kf turns off right after the twrp "press power button for recovery" which I cant enter and the device turns itself off about 15 secs in to boot just at the moment where bootanim should start.
If there have not been any breaktrough methods discovered in the last 1.5 months on the topic of unbricking I am pretty sure that any attemt will end in a failure, so lets get back to the main topic - where could I score a working mobo?
skrubis said:
but I am sure something is really f*ed up on the board itself where setting any bootmodes won't help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may be right, but you'll be pretty pissed off if you buy a new motherboard just to find out it was a software issue all along.
Before spending any money you should check that your drivers are in order (perhaps reinstall them) and try again.
When you use the factory cable, does it still shut itself down?
Yeay that would be unnecessary if this was just a software problem. I think the audio jack got a 12v dc blasted straight in to it from my car battery.
The kf turns itself off at any attempt to do anything, except it stayed on with kf unbricker one of the adp attempts. nothing else (even the short circuiting the motherboard pin to grnd did not work)
skrubis said:
Yeay that would be unnecessary if this was just a software problem. I think the audio jack got a 12v dc blasted straight in to it from my car battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that would probably do it.
There's another thread here somewhere where buying another motherboard was being discussed. I'll post it if I can find it.
skrubis said:
if you mean like with the kfu to set to normal boot mode- nothing, absolutely nothing there is mentioned on this forum works as something is fried near to the audio output jack, did not see any burnt resistors or anything else, but I am sure something is really f*ed up on the board itself where setting any bootmodes won't help.
It seems that the kf turns off right after the twrp "press power button for recovery" which I cant enter and the device turns itself off about 15 secs in to boot just at the moment where bootanim should start.
If there have not been any breaktrough methods discovered in the last 1.5 months on the topic of unbricking I am pretty sure that any attemt will end in a failure, so lets get back to the main topic - where could I score a working mobo?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know where to get a mobo in such conditions but I'd like to offer my 2 cents, have you tried reflashing recovery? when I first started testing Hashcode's ICS on my Kindle I'd see exactly the same behavior (since I didn't plug it into a live stereo output I had no reason to think something was wrong with the motherboard) so I tried flashing TWRP again and got it to work just fine.
Again, this is something that might/might not work but you can as well try it while you find where to get a new mobo, who knows, maybe it works and you save yourself some bucks
So I found a dead kindle at the local classifieds for roughly 10 bucks in US currency and brought it home and switched the motherboards, sure enough the kindle boots as new.
If anyone wants my old mobo to thinker with I will gladly give it to anyone who is willing to cover those 2-3 bucks for international shipping.
Thank you for your support!
Hello, I'm having an issue where a foreign substance (possibly sugar based) has gotten on the power button and some went just inside and around it. When I first noticed I tried clean it out with a sharp knife (hopefully I didn't aid in packing it in there) and was able to remove a good portion. Since then though the power button is initially hard to press but if I hit it a couple times in succession it seems free like it should be.
I can find my way around software problems but hardware issues are an unknown territory. Would there be anyway to correct this without disassembling the tablet? I don't believe contact cleaner would be very smart lol. Any help will be appreciated by me hitting the 'Thanks' button for you
So how was that donut?
I don't think contact cleaner would hurt anything, but I would try a few drops of isopropil alcohol to try and dissolve that sugar. Do it with the KF turned off, and wait a few seconds before trying the button.
If that doesn't work, look on YouTube for a guide to take it apart, it's easier than you think.
Sent from my Kindle Fire that thinks it's a Nexus 7
larryf said:
So how was that donut?
I don't think contact cleaner would hurt anything, but I would try a few drops of isopropil alcohol to try and dissolve that sugar. Do it with the KF turned off, and wait a few seconds before trying the button.
If that doesn't work, look on YouTube for a guide to take it apart, it's easier than you think.
Sent from my Kindle Fire that thinks it's a Nexus 7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually don't remember what it was lol.....I was a little inebriated but I will try the alcohol and maybe contact cleaner if I can find it
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
Hello my brothers from the KF HD 8.9" forum! I come from over yonder at the KF2 forum with some useful information. Several months ago, I started this thread about "hacking" a KF2 in order to restore it from hardbrick. Well, thanks to a generous donation from @v0id7, I've finished the first steps of the process for 8.9" devices ! Unfortunately, as I do not have a spare 8.9" sitting around, all I can do is provide the pinout for continuing the process (although, v0id7 has mentioned to me that he is going to test it out on his device).
I have most of the process for the KF2 outlined over on this guide (minus the software part for now), but if you don't want to read that or the other post, here's a short rundown: You solder to a few points on the motherboard, allowing you to bypass the KF's processor and directly access the information on the eMMC. This allows you to reflash whatever it was that you flashed in the first place to kill said KF.
Once I have word from v0id7 that this does indeed work on the 8.9" (which I can't foresee it not working), I'll probably set up a guide specifically for the 8.9", as well.
I'm also in the process of prototyping something that would allow access without soldering. Hopefully I'll have the prototype done in the next few days here.
Let me know if you have any questions/comments/concerns.
...and now that I've blathered on for a while, here's the pinout:
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kurohyou, You are the King of all that is Kindle! you are an evil genius my friend.
Thanks kurohyou for your efforts.
I tried to put all this together but unfortunately without success. Linux cannot open the block device reporting "No medium found". Full dmesg output is available upon request but in general the kernel usb driver keeps resetting the usb device and the usb reader led keeps flashing.
I also observed the following. When VccQ is disconnected I can measure a steady Vcc voltage of 3.12V being passed to the board. When I connect the VccQ as show in the picture, the Vcc (and VccQ) drops to 0V just like being shortened. Not being an hardware expert I suspect that VccQ input point may be incorrect.
Also I'm not very sure I get the exact Vcc soldering point from the picture posted. Even when I zoom it is not very clear where to solder to. I soldered Vcc to the right connection of a very small component (not sure resistor or capacitor) that sits between two relatively larger components above and below. Is this correct?
v0id7 said:
Thanks kurohyou for your efforts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, thank you for your donation and continuing the work!
v0id7 said:
I tried to put all this together but unfortunately without success. Linux cannot open the block device reporting "No medium found". Full dmesg output is available upon request but in general the kernel usb driver keeps resetting the usb device and the usb reader led keeps flashing.
I also observed the following. When VccQ is disconnected I can measure a steady Vcc voltage of 3.12V being passed to the board. When I connect the VccQ as show in the picture, the Vcc (and VccQ) drops to 0V just like being shortened. Not being an hardware expert I suspect that VccQ input point may be incorrect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a bit odd. I rechecked everything and it's all correct. What happens if you connect VccQ and leave Vcc disconnected?
v0id7 said:
Also I'm not very sure I get the exact Vcc soldering point from the picture posted. Even when I zoom it is not very clear where to solder to. I soldered Vcc to the right connection of a very small component (not sure resistor or capacitor) that sits between two relatively larger components above and below. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you are correct. Vcc as labelled in the photo above is the small component between the two larger components, the side opposite of the heat shield mount (or as looking at the board as above, the right side). Since it's not working with the current setup, though, hopefully that means we don't even need the Vcc point (fingers crossed).
Also, while waiting for your response, I'm going to take some time to apply voltage to the VccQ point and see if I get a voltage measurement at the Vcc pins on the eMMC mount pins. I might also take a moment to look at the data sheet for the eMMC itself if I can find it, too. I'll post again when I have some info.
It works!
it works like a charm!
Here are my partitions (cat /proc/partitions) where sdb is the USB card reader:
major minor #blocks name
8 0 625131864 sda
8 1 102400 sda1
8 2 625027072 sda2
11 0 695600 sr0
7 0 547860 loop0
8 16 30535680 sdb
8 17 128 sdb1
8 18 256 sdb2
8 19 64 sdb3
8 20 16 sdb4
8 21 2 sdb5
8 22 10240 sdb6
8 23 65536 sdb7
8 24 16384 sdb8
8 25 8192 sdb9
8 26 8192 sdb10
8 27 907264 sdb11
8 28 665600 sdb12
8 29 28853248 sdb13
8 32 3834912 sdc
8 33 3785472 sdc1
Sorry for my previous post. It was my fault incorrectly tweaking CD_SW.
Tomorrow I'll reflash the boot partition sdb10 and I'll post the results here.
Great job kurohyou!
v0id7 said:
Tomorrow I'll reflash the boot partition sdb10 and I'll post the results here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ups and downs!
I flashed boot and recovery partitions but the Kindle still doesn't show any signs of life.
Before the flashing, when powered on it was at least detected for a second as OMAP device. Now its absolutely quiet.
What I did is flashing freedom-boot-8.4.6 to partition 10 and twrp-2.6.3.1-recovery to partition 9.
dd if=kfhd8-freedom-boot-8.4.6.img of=/dev/sdb10
dd if=kfhd8-twrp-2.6.3.1-recovery.img of=/dev/sdb9Correct me if I'm wrong but IMO even just the boot patition should be sufficient to get control in fastboot mode.
Any ideas how to continue from here?
And two more questions:
What behavior should I expect when connecting just the board with its USB cable to the USB port of a computer (no battery, no wifi board, no display, no power/volume controls).
Is it mandatory to disconnect all soldered wires from the board to the USB reader when powering the motherboard on?
v0id7 said:
Ups and downs!
I flashed boot and recovery partitions but the Kindle still doesn't show any signs of life.
Before the flashing, when powered on it was at least detected for a second as OMAP device. Now its absolutely quiet.
What I did is flashing freedom-boot-8.4.6 to partition 10 and twrp-2.6.3.1-recovery to partition 9.
dd if=kfhd8-freedom-boot-8.4.6.img of=/dev/sdb10
dd if=kfhd8-twrp-2.6.3.1-recovery.img of=/dev/sdb9Correct me if I'm wrong but IMO even just the boot patition should be sufficient to get control in fastboot mode.
Any ideas how to continue from here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try flashing it back to stock and seeing if there is any difference. Also, you might have to let it charge for a while. I think hard-bricking discharges the battery. I can't remember if I got anything when I first plugged it in or not.
If flashing to stock doesn't work, try passing bs=1 when you use dd. That somehow made all the difference for someone on the original KF2 thread.
Also, keep in mind, if you're putting the motherboard back in the case to hook it up, you need to shield the contacts on the bottom from the case. A quick measure with my DMM showed that the inside of the back case is conductive!
Only semi-related: I was trying to find the partition layout for the 8.9", but a quick search didn't yield anything. Do you happen to have a link to it? I'd like it for reference and to place on the website I'm making.
v0id7 said:
What behavior should I expect when connecting just the board with its USB cable to the USB port of a computer (no battery, no wifi board, no display, no power/volume controls).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I honestly don't know. I never really thought to try. My only guess would be that bootup would probably fail because the motherboard couldn't recognize its devices? I must admit that I'm not particularly familiar with the boot process, so it's just a shot in the dark.
v0id7 said:
Is it mandatory to disconnect all soldered wires from the board to the USB reader when powering the motherboard on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never tried it any other way. My concern with leaving them connected is that you're now passing power back to the SD card reader, so it could result in some funny business. If you're concerned about having to resolder to the motherboard multiple times, I suppose a safer alternative would be to desolder all the wires from the SD card reader and keep them from shorting. You also might be able to get away with just desoldering the supply wires (Vcc and VccQ) and keeping them insulated from contacting anything (including each other).
kurohyou said:
Try flashing it back to stock and seeing if there is any difference. Also, you might have to let it charge for a while. I think hard-bricking discharges the battery. I can't remember if I got anything when I first plugged it in or not.
If flashing to stock doesn't work, try passing bs=1 when you use dd. That somehow made all the difference for someone on the original KF2 thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on it. Luckily I have stock backup.
kurohyou said:
I was trying to find the partition layout for the 8.9", but a quick search didn't yield anything. Do you happen to have a link to it? I'd like it for reference and to place on the website I'm making.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Taken from stock firmware:
mmcblk0p1 xloader
mmcblk0p2 bootloader
mmcblk0p3 idme
mmcblk0p4 crypto
mmcblk0p5 misc
mmcblk0p6 dkernel
mmcblk0p7 dfs
mmcblk0p8 efs
mmcblk0p9 recovery
mmcblk0p10 boot
mmcblk0p11 system
mmcblk0p12 cache
mmcblk0p13 userdata
What did you do that hardbricked it in the first place? I may be mistaken, but I thought that overwriting boot wasn't an issue, it was bootloader that generally did it?
All,
I think I have to stop here. Yesterday while soldering the wires for second time I caused unrecoverable damage to the board – the CLOCK pad got torn off of the PCB. I guess I have overheated the pad.
Anyway, I do believe that the approach of unbricking kfhd89 with directly flashing the eMMC will work! The pinout provided by @kurohyou proved to be correct – I successfully got access to the flash partitions. I just thoroughly sorry that during my first attempt I flashed the boot partition instead of the bootloader (which was actually the faulty one).
kurohyou said:
What did you do that hardbricked it in the first place? I may be mistaken, but I thought that overwriting boot wasn't an issue, it was bootloader that generally did it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bricked my Kindle by flashing bootloader with incomplete download. I was happily running CM10.1 for quite a long time but decided to upgrade TWRP and didn’t check the md5s .
I hope there will be someone with "brave heart" and bricked Kindle to continue this project as we are only a step away from marking it as confirmed.
v0id7 said:
All,
I think I have to stop here. Yesterday while soldering the wires for second time I caused unrecoverable damage to the board – the CLOCK pad got torn off of the PCB. I guess I have overheated the pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ouch. I hate when that happens. I can't say I haven't been there before, too, though. There may still be some hope for repairing it. I'll track down another point. If you don't want to mess with soldering again, you can always send it to me once I finish this solderless access device. I'm just waiting for UPS to deliver a pair of Loc Line pliers (I was supposed to get them on Tuesday) so I can finish drilling some holes in these nozzles to feed the wire. I hope to have it completed and tested (with pictures) by the beginning of next week. If you want a general idea of what it will look like, take a look at this and imagine spring-loaded contact probes in place of the alligator clips.
Also, JohnnyLawless is in my neck of the woods and needs his device repaired, so we're planning to meet up and make it happen. At that time, I'm planning on taking pictures and screenshots for a guide.
kurohyou said:
There may still be some hope for repairing it. I'll track down another point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you spare time on this I'll try again.
I did a quick jaunt around the board and nothing was really standing out to me. There probably is another point, but it probably is one of the tiny components on there. There's no way soldering to one of those would work. There's a few options left, but neither are really pretty or easy. The first would be to carefully expose the via that was underneath the pad and use a spring-loaded contact probe to make a connection. The second would be to repair the pad, which involves a new pad (or the old pad if it's still in good shape) and epoxy.
Again, if you're willing to send it my way, I'd be happy to give both of those a try for you, or I can provide you with the instructions for the device I'm working on (once I'm finished) or a link to some videos about PCB pad repair.
kurohyou said:
I did a quick jaunt around the board and nothing was really standing out to me. There probably is another point, but it probably is one of the tiny components on there. There's no way soldering to one of those would work. There's a few options left, but neither are really pretty or easy. The first would be to carefully expose the via that was underneath the pad and use a spring-loaded contact probe to make a connection. The second would be to repair the pad, which involves a new pad (or the old pad if it's still in good shape) and epoxy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks kurohyou. This thread is yours but I really believe we should keep it general and as close as possible to its subject. The issue with my clock pad is quite specific and off-topic.
kurohyou said:
Again, if you're willing to send it my way, I'd be happy to give both of those a try for you, or I can provide you with the instructions for the device I'm working on (once I'm finished) or a link to some videos about PCB pad repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Forget about my board. Spending more efforts on it is not worthy. I would rather buy a new one, brick it and resume the tests .
no title
gonna try this out.
(cant send mine cause sending charges are too high since i live in uruguay)
If he doesn't respond i might be willing to attempy to fix it, finally got a new soldering tip meant for small circuitry(st7). All I need is a sdcard reader and some small gauge wire.
Sent from my LG-P769 using xda app-developers app
I'll give it a shot.
I'm going to try this soon, but I've got a couple of quick questions.
1. I'm not familiar with enamel-coated magnet wire, but it's the only 30-gauge I could find. Is it bad to use?
2. I found a MicroSD-only card reader more easily in stores than SD-only. I'm guessing it would be more difficult to solder due to the size. Would it be the same otherwise?
Prime Mover said:
I'm going to try this soon, but I've got a couple of quick questions.
1. I'm not familiar with enamel-coated magnet wire, but it's the only 30-gauge I could find. Is it bad to use?
2. I found a MicroSD-only card reader more easily in stores than SD-only. I'm guessing it would be more difficult to solder due to the size. Would it be the same otherwise?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am new to this thread but I would like to help out with this cause. I have a hard-bricked motherboard that I can donate to anyone willing to attempt Kurohyou's soldering fix to this problem. It is for a 8.9 Kindle and I have little soldering experience, thus I would have no problem with donating my board in order to further this thread's progress. If I can be of help go ahead and pm me or respond to this post.
1. I'm not familiar with enamel-coated magnet wire, but it's the only 30-gauge I could find. Is it bad to use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Enamel coated wire serves different purpose and is much more difficult to strip the insulation at the ends before soldering. I would recommend regular solid-core hook-up wire with PVC insulation. 30-gauge is not a must. 26 would do just fine.
2. I found a MicroSD-only card reader more easily in stores than SD-only. I'm guessing it would be more difficult to solder due to the size. Would it be the same otherwise?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven’t tried soldering on MicroSD-only card reader but I guess it will be difficult and more error-prone. Otherwise AFAIK they share same signaling interface. The only difference is that MicroSD has just one ground pin (while SD has two).
Hello v0id7,
v0id7 said:
I'm on it. Luckily I have stock backup.
have you flashed your backed-up boot.img and rescue.img to successfully boot?
And how do you extract the partitions from the amazon update .bin file?
I think I will give this method a try. I didn't solder for a long time now, but let us see.
Do you own KFHD now?
Have a nice day.
giderBey
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought I'd share my experience with this, as I've seen posts in the past relating to a water damaged phone boot looping and I don't think I've seen a proper solution given.
First thing's first, this advice is in relation to a very specific type of boot looping. Nothing to do with rooting, or software bugs. This is boot looping that has come about as a result of water damage. It may not have been long, maybe a couple of seconds in the toilet or some brief rain exposure. Whatever it is, you know your phone has been exposed to some water and it has begun boot looping. There will be no way to get out of it, as the phone boots for 2/3 seconds max before looping all over again. Even when you go into recovery, same thing, automatically boot loops.
Most people, including the official HTC Service Centre, will tell you the motherboard is fried and needs replacement. Whilst it is possible that may be true, it isn't guaranteed. It's an easy way out for HTC, as they can charge you an extortionate price for a new motherboard and not have to bother going through the work of taking the phone apart to find out what is wrong.
The solution may be much simpler - the Power Flex Cable. This is a very small cable that goes along the top of your phone. WHen water damaged, this cable can become damaged, causing a constant boot loop. The reason being it constantly tells the phone the power button is on, causing a constant on/off cycle. In this instance the motherboard is fine and you can get a replacement Flex Cable for less than £5!
There is an easy way to tell whether the Flex Cable is the likely cause of your looping. When the phone is looping, hold down the down volume button only. Don't touch the power button. If your phone still goes into recovery (then loops again) then it is entirely possible your Flex Cable is damaged, not your motherboard.
Next step, order a Flex Cable (they are easy to find). When it arrives, you will need to open your phone (there are guides on YouTube for this), detach the motherboard and replace the Flex Cable. An advance warning, this isn't easy and you have to be extremely careful. One bad move and your phone is history. The motherboard is delicate. If you look around the internet you will find guides which show how the HTC One X is configured. Note that the Flex Cable is behind the motherboard and quite awkward to get off. I would post a couple of links but as a new member I'm not allowed! PM me and I'm happy to share some helpful links though.
You'll know quickly if this has worked. When connecting your phone it will no longer loop. Let it charge for a little while, then power on and hope for the best. If the Flex Cable was the problem your phone will reboot, and you will be able to use it and get your data off.
Note that water damage can have long lasting effects on a mobile phone. Whilst this may solve the problem for a while, it's entirely possible your phone will fail at some point down the line. Prepare for that and make sure you back up accordingly. The above advice may give you a lifeline in getting data off your phone, though, and being able to use it for a little longer. I know that when I was looking around the net I only found this advice by chance, and I think it was on a non-phone related forum. This advice may exist on the forum somewhere but if so it isn't so easy to find. I hope somebody may come across this topic when trying to fix their water damaged phone and find it is the solution.
Good luck!
Same symptoms, but no water damage
Hey man,
Thanks a ton for your post. I have the same issue, as in it won't stop booting at all. However, mine didn't happen because of water damage, but when I tried to do a factory reset (the phone was only on 5% charge so I'm not sure if that screwed it up). Do you think it could still be solved with a flex cable? I tried holding just the volume button down, and it does go into the bootloader so it seems pretty much exactly like what you have described!
Cheers
My only experience with replacing the flex cable comes from water damage, I'm not sure whether a software fault (as this appears to be) could have any effect on the cable itself!
When you get into the bootloader screen, does it just cycle all the way through to fastboot without allowing you to select any other options before rebooting? If so it would suggest your phone thinks the power button is constantly pushed down, which is suggestive of a power flex cable fault.
These cables are very cheap to buy, so if you aren't able to do anything else with the phone it's definitely worth a shot, even if it doesn't work. Just remember that opening the phone voids your warranty, and be careful if you do attempt it, as the insides of the One X are quite delicate. It would be very easy to break something!
de4life said:
My only experience with replacing the flex cable comes from water damage, I'm not sure whether a software fault (as this appears to be) could have any effect on the cable itself!
When you get into the bootloader screen, does it just cycle all the way through to fastboot without allowing you to select any other options before rebooting? If so it would suggest your phone thinks the power button is constantly pushed down, which is suggestive of a power flex cable fault.
These cables are very cheap to buy, so if you aren't able to do anything else with the phone it's definitely worth a shot, even if it doesn't work. Just remember that opening the phone voids your warranty, and be careful if you do attempt it, as the insides of the One X are quite delicate. It would be very easy to break something!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to replace my power flex cable when I was changing my battery as I accidentally snapped it.
Kahun said:
I had to replace my power flex cable when I was changing my battery as I accidentally snapped it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very easy to do, the flex cable is a fragile piece. There are quite a few parts inside the HOX which could easily snap, which is why I always urge a lot of caution when opening the phone up!
de4life said:
I thought I'd share my experience with this, as I've seen posts in the past relating to a water damaged phone boot looping and I don't think I've seen a proper solution given.
First thing's first, this advice is in relation to a very specific type of boot looping. Nothing to do with rooting, or software bugs. This is boot looping that has come about as a result of water damage. It may not have been long, maybe a couple of seconds in the toilet or some brief rain exposure. Whatever it is, you know your phone has been exposed to some water and it has begun boot looping. There will be no way to get out of it, as the phone boots for 2/3 seconds max before looping all over again. Even when you go into recovery, same thing, automatically boot loops.
Most people, including the official HTC Service Centre, will tell you the motherboard is fried and needs replacement. Whilst it is possible that may be true, it isn't guaranteed. It's an easy way out for HTC, as they can charge you an extortionate price for a new motherboard and not have to bother going through the work of taking the phone apart to find out what is wrong.
The solution may be much simpler - the Power Flex Cable. This is a very small cable that goes along the top of your phone. WHen water damaged, this cable can become damaged, causing a constant boot loop. The reason being it constantly tells the phone the power button is on, causing a constant on/off cycle. In this instance the motherboard is fine and you can get a replacement Flex Cable for less than £5!
There is an easy way to tell whether the Flex Cable is the likely cause of your looping. When the phone is looping, hold down the down volume button only. Don't touch the power button. If your phone still goes into recovery (then loops again) then it is entirely possible your Flex Cable is damaged, not your motherboard.
Next step, order a Flex Cable (they are easy to find). When it arrives, you will need to open your phone (there are guides on YouTube for this), detach the motherboard and replace the Flex Cable. An advance warning, this isn't easy and you have to be extremely careful. One bad move and your phone is history. The motherboard is delicate. If you look around the internet you will find guides which show how the HTC One X is configured. Note that the Flex Cable is behind the motherboard and quite awkward to get off. I would post a couple of links but as a new member I'm not allowed! PM me and I'm happy to share some helpful links though.
You'll know quickly if this has worked. When connecting your phone it will no longer loop. Let it charge for a little while, then power on and hope for the best. If the Flex Cable was the problem your phone will reboot, and you will be able to use it and get your data off.
Note that water damage can have long lasting effects on a mobile phone. Whilst this may solve the problem for a while, it's entirely possible your phone will fail at some point down the line. Prepare for that and make sure you back up accordingly. The above advice may give you a lifeline in getting data off your phone, though, and being able to use it for a little longer. I know that when I was looking around the net I only found this advice by chance, and I think it was on a non-phone related forum. This advice may exist on the forum somewhere but if so it isn't so easy to find. I hope somebody may come across this topic when trying to fix their water damaged phone and find it is the solution.
Good luck!
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Click to collapse
Thanks. I've already taken the back off and noticed some broken bits of plastic...from the back....but I did notice a bit of ribbon that looked a bit screwed up....I'm gonna take it to the gizmo wizard to fix once I buy a new power flex cable.
Good luck!
Another thing to try
de4life said:
Good luck!
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Click to collapse
Old thread I know but thought it was worth adding that with a water damaged phone the issues can result from the fact that tap water contains minerals which can leave a conductive residue when it dries - can change resistances, cause shorts etc. What I've done previously is used isopropyl alcohol (tape head cleaning fluid) with a toothbrush on the motherboard. Brought a phone back to life. This removes the mineral deposits and cleans everything. Had to remove the metal covers from the mobo first though. If a phone is basically dead or not working right after water damage then it's worth a go. As de4life says, just need to be super careful on the HOX with all the delicate ribbon cables.
Indeed, the phone should be thoroughly clensed if possible to wipe out any corrosive liquids left behind from the water (especially if it's dropped in an ocean). The effects of corrosion can be very slow and potentially last for months.
M8 please reply to this all the flex cables that I found are 40$+ can you give me a link for one as you stated that would cost 5 pounds
It worked
It worked! I replaced the power flex cable with a spare one on my HTC One X, previously damaged by being sucked by my one year old son - water damage.! It worked!
Many thanks to you man!
IamNewBee said:
Many thanks to you man!
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Click to collapse
Wondering if this is the right cable?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Power-O...972183?hash=item27d4be6597:g:n6AAAOSw9GhYbb-y
Thanks!
Thank you!
de4life said:
I thought I'd share my experience with this, as I've seen posts in the past relating to a water damaged phone boot looping and I don't think I've seen a proper solution given.
First thing's first, this advice is in relation to a very specific type of boot looping. Nothing to do with rooting, or software bugs. This is boot looping that has come about as a result of water damage. It may not have been long, maybe a couple of seconds in the toilet or some brief rain exposure. Whatever it is, you know your phone has been exposed to some water and it has begun boot looping. There will be no way to get out of it, as the phone boots for 2/3 seconds max before looping all over again. Even when you go into recovery, same thing, automatically boot loops.
Most people, including the official HTC Service Centre, will tell you the motherboard is fried and needs replacement. Whilst it is possible that may be true, it isn't guaranteed. It's an easy way out for HTC, as they can charge you an extortionate price for a new motherboard and not have to bother going through the work of taking the phone apart to find out what is wrong.
The solution may be much simpler - the Power Flex Cable. This is a very small cable that goes along the top of your phone. WHen water damaged, this cable can become damaged, causing a constant boot loop. The reason being it constantly tells the phone the power button is on, causing a constant on/off cycle. In this instance the motherboard is fine and you can get a replacement Flex Cable for less than £5!
There is an easy way to tell whether the Flex Cable is the likely cause of your looping. When the phone is looping, hold down the down volume button only. Don't touch the power button. If your phone still goes into recovery (then loops again) then it is entirely possible your Flex Cable is damaged, not your motherboard.
Next step, order a Flex Cable (they are easy to find). When it arrives, you will need to open your phone (there are guides on YouTube for this), detach the motherboard and replace the Flex Cable. An advance warning, this isn't easy and you have to be extremely careful. One bad move and your phone is history. The motherboard is delicate. If you look around the internet you will find guides which show how the HTC One X is configured. Note that the Flex Cable is behind the motherboard and quite awkward to get off. I would post a couple of links but as a new member I'm not allowed! PM me and I'm happy to share some helpful links though.
You'll know quickly if this has worked. When connecting your phone it will no longer loop. Let it charge for a little while, then power on and hope for the best. If the Flex Cable was the problem your phone will reboot, and you will be able to use it and get your data off.
Note that water damage can have long lasting effects on a mobile phone. Whilst this may solve the problem for a while, it's entirely possible your phone will fail at some point down the line. Prepare for that and make sure you back up accordingly. The above advice may give you a lifeline in getting data off your phone, though, and being able to use it for a little longer. I know that when I was looking around the net I only found this advice by chance, and I think it was on a non-phone related forum. This advice may exist on the forum somewhere but if so it isn't so easy to find. I hope somebody may come across this topic when trying to fix their water damaged phone and find it is the solution.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for typing this out! My Google Pixel OG (2016), which was made by HTC, experienced the exact same problem. I have just fixed it by replacing the power flex cable like you suggested.
lazinase said:
Thank you very much for typing this out! My Google Pixel OG (2016), which was made by HTC, experienced the exact same problem. I have just fixed it by replacing the power flex cable like you suggested.
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Click to collapse
I was surprised to get a notification for this old thread! I'm glad this worked for you. I had no idea HTC used the same design for the original Pixel.
It was a normal day, I just left my house with my Black Shark 3 fully charged, I used it for some messages and simple things when at 2 hours it turns off by itself and cannot be turned on, instead it vibrates every 15 seconds, does not react to the charger or show any information on the screen, just dead except for vibrating and vibrating. The recovery mode does not work, the key combination turn off + volume up or down is useless. Help!!! I never touched or modified it, it was completely updated to the default official versions, I learned to accept my Chinese version with Google complications and language support, I accepted it as it was KLE-A0 with JoyUi 12.5 and Android 11
{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted}
How? You can help me
Her0. said:
How? You can help me
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Click to collapse
try flashing qfil ROM. PM me i'll guide you
slashyuz6 said:
try flashing qfil ROM. PM me i'll guide you
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I do not know much about how to do this, thanks bro for the support, I only know that it does not respond when connecting it to the PC, it is totally dead ... I wanted to rule out some hardware problem but I also can't find how to uncover it
Her0. said:
I do not know much about how to do this, thanks bro for the support, I only know that it does not respond when connecting it to the PC, it is totally dead ... I wanted to rule out some hardware problem but I also can't find how to uncover it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
then you need to pull out the battery connector, both of them, then do the test point method (you need to take out the back cover of your phone). i was facing the same problem like yours, that's how i bring the phone back to life.
slashyuz6 said:
then you need to pull out the battery connector, both of them, then do the test point method (you need to take out the back cover of your phone). i was facing the same problem like yours, that's how i bring the phone back to life.
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I don't see any screws on the back of the black shark, neither on the sides ... Maybe the screen will have to be taken off but it makes me insecure
Her0. said:
I don't see any screws on the back of the black shark, neither on the sides ... Maybe the screen will have to be taken off but it makes me insecure
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Click to collapse
the back cover is attached by using double sided tape, you just need to heating up the back cover with heat gun or hairdryer to soften the glue. just search on youtube, how to take off the back cover. you can PM me if you need help.
slashyuz6 said:
then you need to pull out the battery connector, both of them, then do the test point method (you need to take out the back cover of your phone). i was facing the same problem like yours, that's how i bring the phone back to life.
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Click to collapse
u dont need to open cover for edl. when phone is off, hold volume down + plug phone to pc. it should be detected as edl mode. check pc device manager to confirm
Jbazt_katuforzs said:
u dont need to open cover for edl. when phone is off, hold volume down + plug phone to pc. it should be detected as edl mode. check pc device manager to confirm
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Click to collapse
the phone is totally dead, no response to any button or any computer, even not responding to the charger. it is just plain dead. i was also experiencing the same exact problem. the last thing he can do is only do the test point method which require him to open up the back cover.
Do not pay anything to anyone trying to offer you help for $. Either your device is physically damaged (in which case it needs to go in for repair) or it can be fixed with some study and help.
Hello friends, after all, when I press and hold the volume down key, it seems to achieve a connection in PCSUITE, however, it asks me to connect in a normal way before
What do you think that in the end what muy BS3 have is that the board burned, I always thought that that heat could be taken well by the device after all it is Gaming with liquid cooling, right?