Ok so I posted yesterday and asked who would be interested and got 2 replies but a reply is a reply so ok.
Ok some people hate how the back of there incredible is squeaky and feels cheap or loose so I have a little info to help you fix that without putting pressure on the digitizer and making it work incorrectly.
Ok first you need electical tape make sure its isn't that thick at all though, you could of course use any kind as long as it isn't thick I just think electrical stays on best and looks best because it blends in with the cover.
Now the squeaks come from the small hooks that slide into the holes when you push your backing on to the incredible and you hear them all click into place, now the are several problems with the design.
1. The while back is just slightly to fat at causes the hooks to never actually go all the way into there holes and they have space to move back and forth causeing squeaks, and causeing the back to feel a little cheap and loose.
2. two of these hooks have an extra amount of even more space, these two hooks are the main cause.
Now most people try to fix this problem by putting layer after layer of tape over the battery to lock the case in place but this give your incredible a bit of a bend in the back and pushes on the digitizer slightly which can mess up your touch screen accuracy in certain areas.
OK all this tape only goes on the casing not the battery or the incredible itself.
(you need scissors and tape, preferably the thinest electrical tape you can find)
Step 1. Take two peices of tape and put on on each side of the area of the case that is over your battery, this helps fill in some of the extra space, try not to put any more then just one layer if your tape seems to thin you can but if you have problems try removing one layer.
Step 2. Now the part on the bottom of your incredible where on the back it becomes its thinest (bottom left if your looking at the back). You will have to cut a small piece out and put it there.
Step 3. now if you take the case off, in the very middle there is that hook that clicks in(in between of the power button and audio hole, sorry i forgot the word for it haha) cut a small piece and put it there it should start on the flat part and go up to just below the hook but not right under it to where it cant hook at all.
Step 4. on the right side in the middle, but not to the area under the hook on that side put a sliver across the side of the case and work it in tight and snug.
Step 5. on the other side you will see a hook that is between the adapter hole and the audio adjustment hole this is one of those hooks causing problems (it should have a dip in the side of the casing just underneath it) put on sliver in there that almost covers the dip but not all the way. actually i had to put two pieces there but it may be different with you.
Step 6. on the other side you should see another dip with another hook just above it (this was the hook we avoided in step 4) cut out small long pieces and, put two there or more or less.
Step 7. Now that you have placed your tape try and pop your back on, if it doesn't go look for the problem and try and fix it, it may be that you have put to much tape in any of the areas under the hooks.
Step 8. Make sure your case is on securely if you still hear any squeaks (without like mega gripping your phone, which it will probably still squeak no matter what when you mega grip it.) then look for the areas that need more tape according to which hooks are squeaking.
Step 9. Now get on your incredible and play with the keyboard, drag stuff, do whatever just test every inch of your screen for touch problems if you find any then try and relieve the pressure by removing the tape over the battery part mainly, then if need be the other areas (which shouldn't cause problems at all but i suppose they could)
ok just play around with the tape placement if you feel but from what i can tell this seems to work best.
And sorry if this was hard to understand im not the best at explaining or useing grammer haha. if you have any problems let me know, or if you dont understand something.
Well thats all good luck
development?
I prefer WD-40
CM7 nightly
Why is this in dev.?
I followed the instructions and lemme tell ya it ain't feelin cheap or loose anymore...
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Oops Meant to post in general
Well I'm not at a computer right now and I'm still pretty new to forums sorry for the mistake, well hmm :/
I don't know but is there a way to move or delete threads or will a mod just do that?
Looks like we're gonna need an engineering section.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA Premium App
I could've sworn with the amount of steps that I was about to replace my timing belt on my car.
suprafreak1000 said:
I could've sworn with the amount of steps that I was about to replace my timing belt on my car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure you mark your timing on the gear/block or your snapdragon will run like a$$.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA Premium App
Will this also work on a squeaky mattress?
masully1984 said:
I prefer WD-40
CM7 nightly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Present and accounted for
...I just gently bend my battery cover inward before putting the cover back on and it usually eliminates the squeaking.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Well thank you all for making me feel like an idiot, I suppose I deserve it though, I didn't even get this in the right section of the forums, but yes lol its a lot of steps but it deffinitly eliminates the squeaks, I hated hearing it every time I picked up my incredible, I'm sort of ocd with it as you can see, oh well this will either be closed or slowly moved all the way to the back of the forums and all can be forgotten
I can now see why people dont bother help others anymore since they get stupid comments like those posted in this thread..
The Guy is just trying to help those that may be interested..
so those that dont have anything good to say just dont post...
1107963 said:
I can now see why people dont bother help others anymore since they get stupid comments like those posted in this thread..
The Guy is just trying to help those that may be interested..
so those that dont have anything good to say just dont post...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The responses here were pretty tame and in jest. If this was posted in the correct forum, it would never have gotten these responses.
Instead of "just don't post", how about post in the correct forum... Just sayin.
To the OP, hell of a write up and I am sure it will benefit some users. Don't stop posting, just follow forum rules.
spence341 said:
The responses here were pretty tame and in jest. If this was posted in the correct forum, it would never have gotten these responses.
Instead of "just don't post", how about post in the correct forum... Just sayin.
To the OP, hell of a write up and I am sure it will benefit some users. Don't stop posting, just follow forum rules.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree dont stop modding or posting, theyre just giving you **** for posting in the wrong forum, it happens. You'll find out a lot of us are just jokers lol
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
On a serious note, most timing belts are a lot less involved then this. Still waiting for an answer about the mattress.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
silverxbv2 said:
On a serious note, most timing belts are a lot less involved then this. Still waiting for an answer about the mattress.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No go on the mattress. 30 rolls of duck tape later and it still squeaks.
spence341 said:
No go on the mattress. 30 rolls of duck tape later and it still squeaks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found that my mattress is quiet if I take all the weight off it, my DInc is quiet at long as I leave it in the box that Verizon sent it to me in, and because I never start my car, the timing belt will never break. If you do have to use your DInc, always insert earplugs in your ears first, lay on your bed as lightly as you can, and change your timing belt every time you put gas in your car or, if possible, every day before you go to work--which you should never go to, so you won't get fired.
Related
*****WARNING*****
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY DO TO YOUR EXCALIBUR
PLEASE USE PRECAUTION AGAINST STATIC CHARGE
*****WARNING*****
ok after more than an hour of taking pictures and editing im finally ready to upload them and be done with this. geeze you cooks must have some patience! my hats off to ya...so here we go...hope this helps atleast one person out there to make it worth my time.
ok to start we are going to need a t6 screwdriver, a prying tool a percision phillips screwdriver. (I ADVISE YOU USE A ANTI-STATIC WRISTBAND TOO)
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so flip your dash over, remove the battery cover, take the battery out, and set off to the side. locate the rubber pieces from the picture below and remove them with your prying tool.
this next part is VERY important. note the void sticker over the top of the right screw. by opening your case you void any warrenty that may be active. just use you t6 to remove both of the screw (note they are silver)
now we only have four more screws to remove to get the back panel off, they are circled in red below, use your t6 again here. these screws are black
with all the screws out of the back panel you now need to take your prying tool and put in between the back panel and the chrome piece on the dash, if this is your first time it will be tight. dont be afraid to use a little force. (on the real tight spots is where it latches, that where you need to pry)
now comes the part i found a little different between my two dash's. the one made in china is the one i used in this guide (i have included a picture of the other one to show the differences). go ahead and remove the back panel. on my china dash the wire to the battery thing was NOT connected to the back panel and on my other dash it WAS connected to the back panel.
i didnt circle it but in the second picture you can see a wire going to the back panel and in the first picture you dont see that. in the next step you can see it nice and snug under the connector.
now locate the connection from the picture below and lift it out of the socket. easy to do just use your nail on the end and lift up.
the circled red connector below holds that cabel on, just use your nails and lift straight up on this and set it off to the side. i sat it in the spot on the back panel that it was on with my other dash
with thoes done we move on to the next spot, with again is circled in red below. use your prying tool, as pictured, to open the latch up.
here i used my nails and removed the "cable" by using the two tiny tabs on the side
the next thing we need to disconnect is below. again use your prying tool to open the latch like you did before.
once you have it open use remove the "cable" by using the circled tab
now the we almost have the mobo off. soo use the t6 to remove the screw, this is also a silver screw but, as noted, their is a difference in size.
the last thing holding the mobo on is two clips, and guess what? their pictured below...
\
i just used my nail to hold one back a little and lifted the mobo out and set it aside. ( the picture shows the "front" of it)
the antenna just lifts off, but you dont need to remove it
and this is what you should see now
were now ready to remove that chrome piece, note that the two circled "cables" go THROUGH the chrome piece.
i used the prying tool to remove the chrome piece, it came off really easy. hopefully it does the same for you
and heres a picture showing the "cables" that go through the chrome piece
set the chrome piece off to the side, and were almost done here
now its time to remove that lcd, which is so easly broken for most people. see the circled peice on the back? that grounds it out, just peel it off. and remove the lcd. i just put my hand over it and flipped the phone over. it came right out and i set it off to the side
now we can see the finish line
their are 3 screws to remove to get the keyboard pcb board off. use a percision phillips screwdriver (the one pictured in my first post is just a small phillips, it worked just fine)
set it off to the side and the keypads will just fall out if you turn the phone over
and thats it. i did not include how to remove the jogger bar, i have not done soo, no need to. if you do please take pictures to add to the guide.
please let me know what you think. i have included all the pictures in a zip file, they are a little better quality.
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
phuKKah said:
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Good post!! Just hope I never have to reference it
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
stylez said:
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its simple all you need is a hammer....lol
i figured someone would say it. hehe
skaroger867 said:
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
phuKKah said:
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats right, i remember a thread on that a little while ago. if you ever find it let me know, id love to have that too. maybe a translucent black or blue one.
i just wanna remove the damn t mobile logo but dont know how to do so without scatching the case. as you can see in the first post, where i scratched it removing the logo lol
WOOOW, awesome man, this is 1 a hell of job
this should be stickied.
Great job , I'm sure this will be very handy for some people that will need to fix their phone's screen or anything else for that matter. Great post.
Please sticky
Amazing job you done here!
Hope can be sticky soon
Cheers,
thanks soo much
really thanks for a guide like this
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
ssj3g0ku said:
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea i found all kinds of dust around the edges of mine, but then again i do work in a factory
Thank you !
Thanks a million for this.
Just completed replacement of LCD on two S620's I had given up for dead.
Now to look for the latest ROMs to play with ...
Sticky. 99.999% chance ill need this in the future.
thanx for the wisdom!!
peace!
I just notice of mine and two of me friends' TP2 ,
the back cover is designed so badly....
it is easily snapped off, even when i just tried to push the power button, me hand pushed the back cover in a way it would open
the snap part of the phone, that is, in the middle of each side, when the back cover snapped, it blows the size in such a way i was afraid it will break, and leave an empty spot. not so sure if this is a defect coz it also there on 2 of me friends'
so, is this a design flaw? or we were just getting bad units?
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look carefully at the dented back cover and a small gap between backcover and the unit
Hi!
i have the same problem!
my back cover "automatically" open when i do a little pressure on it, and when i close it the upper border-plastic is not at the level of the phone....mmmm
BAD HTC!!!
i wondered if it was only my problem...but probably not!
sorry for bad english, tryed to explain at my best
Hmm very strange. Mine is actually very tight, i had to apply quite a lot of force to make it go off the phone. The photo looks to me as if some of the internal holding clamps are not shifted into place when you closed the phone.
Kork said:
Hmm very strange. Mine is actually very tight, i had to apply quite a lot of force to make it go off the phone. The photo looks to me as if some of the internal holding clamps are not shifted into place when you closed the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i second that, it should be holding firm but so far i saw other 2 with exactly same problem, now 3
i had exactly the same problem...
the cover went off really easy anche the 2 sides were not in place..
the problem is in the small tooth in the lower side of the rear cover, near the usb port...
it's too tight and prevent the cover from sittin in place..
i just cut away an half millimeter from that small pieceand now the cover is in place firmly
airon11 said:
i had exactly the same problem...
the cover went off really easy anche the 2 sides were not in place..
the problem is in the small tooth in the lower side of the rear cover, near the usb port...
it's too tight and prevent the cover from sittin in place..
i just cut away an half millimeter from that small pieceand now the cover is in place firmly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u cut it off? oh man, am i really that brave enough for this expensive phone?
how do you know its because of that small tooth anyway? is it because when you press the bottom part of the back cover it makes a squakey sound?
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
gunggu said:
u cut it off? oh man, am i really that brave enough for this expensive phone?
how do you know its because of that small tooth anyway? is it because when you press the bottom part of the back cover it makes a squakey sound?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i didn't cut off all the tooth...just a slice...to make is thinner...
i tought about that for a week and finally trying and retrying i took the cutter and did it...
i noticed that if i put in place the rear cover not sliding it, but pushing it in place from the corners, it fited right, but the bottom part could not snap in place because of that piece of plastic...
slicing it down really carefully did allowed the back cover to snap in place
the sides of the cover now are almost in place....the bump is still there but is really not noticeable now...
airon11 said:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks a lot for the share!!! once i gain my strength and bravery, i will also cut it myself. the photo will really help a lot!
Mine snap very tight.... actually very worried everytime when i want to open the back cover cos I have to use force to open it. Very worried I will break it, cos it is an expensive phone :>
gunggu said:
thanks a lot for the share!!! once i gain my strength and bravery, i will also cut it myself. the photo will really help a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i gained the bravery lookin at htc online shop....30 euro for a spare back cover.....i decided to try...the worst thing it coul happen is that the cover is loose and i need a spare one....not a big amount of money...
Same problem with my phone.. (Poland) but I am not so brave to cut something that I bought for over 500 euros. I gave it back and waiting for the HTC replay.
Does anybody know if they are concerning it as a product failure and replacing it?
I guess as always it depends 2/3 on your negotiation skills if the manufacturer will consider whatever issue you have as a product failure. So if all you did was opening the cover for inserting a battery and sim and then closing it and it's not closing very well, you shouldn't have any trouble getting a replacement.
I don't have this problem, Mine is very tight....
Likewise, mine is nice cool too.
fadimck said:
I don't have this problem, Mine is very tight....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My cover was very tight (almost too tight...was kinda hard to get off) for the first month, but since yesterday it hasn't been fitting properly.
Kinda hard to tell what is wrong, but might have a look at the 'skimming' suggestion in the thread, although taking a knife to my phone...
Mine is tight too... I was suprised to read in the manual that you have to take the stylus out to remove the cover. No matter i was having issues at first.
Maybe it's time to start reading the damn things.
Mine was fine up until 2 days ago. Now I'm having the loose back cover issue. I cant believe I paid this much for a device and I have to consider modifying the back cover to fit properly.
After examining the inside of the battery cover (where the stylus inserts). I really don't see how not taking out the stylus would damage or bend the back cover when taking it off. Unless, you all see something I don't.
airon11 said:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you.
I pulled out my Drimmel tool and just barely cut a tad bit off that piece, I mean just a little bitty bit. Not too much. Now it fits a lot better than it did and it sits flush with the top of the phone like its suppose to. Don't get me wrong it could be tighter, but its not popping loose trying to get it out of its case.
Could you post a photo, maybe in good quality? I want to do same, but I am a little bit affraid... thx
Hello, all. I have seen this on a few other sites but I couldn't find it here, and if it has been posted here then I apologize in advance but please know that I don't take credit for this idea, I just wanted to share my modification and post instructions on how I did it because I honestly believe it came out perfect!
To achieve what you see in the pictures below, all you need is some 400 grit sandpaper, some compressed air duster, and some patience. Also, make sure you have a case opener tool and a T-5 torx bit to take the phone apart. Once you get everything separated, just go to work on the black paint with the sandpaper. I used 1x1 inch squares that I cutout from a large sheet; it only took five squares to complete this. Just be patient and use a pen or similar small tube to wrap the sandpaper around to get into the curved areas with ease. Take your time, it is well worth the wait. Once you are all done, take a fresh piece of sandpaper and go over the whole thing quickly one last time, then with a slightly damp cotton cloth wipe away the dust to get that deep red color back and use the air duster to remove the particles. Put everything back together and enjoy!!! The look is totally clean and smooth and so damn sexy! I am going back to my clear case from my otter box just to show it off. I don't think I left anything out but just post any questions and I'll get right back to you.
Once again, thanks to everyone who did this before be and gave me the inspiration. I really think this is the best way to go about it...no chemicals, no razors or blades, no dremel tools. Just some up close and personal TLC with some really really fine sandpaper.
Good luck and post some photos of your results!!!
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The scrape method was originally posted here. You took his a step further with "less risk".
All have turned out pretty nice. However, question, what is the "case opener tool" which you speak of?
Any photos of your disassembly?
Dude!.. such a subtle and, relatively pain free mod that REALLY makes it stand out, I love this! gonna do it right now!.
In all honesty, you could just use a blade or a small flathead screwdriver to pop the case once you get the torx screws out, but I picked up a small kit for like $3 off of eBay that has plastic pry tools in a variety of shapes that won't damage or mar the case / plastic. I don't have any photos of the teardown, but the website iFixit has a great teardown of the Evo. Just go to http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown and search Evo. Removing the speaker and camera flash LEDs to avoid getting sanded particles in is optional, I forgot to note that in my OP.
I just want to emphasize, take your time!!! It took me around an hour and a half to get it all done because I was kinda OCD about making sure I didn't jack it up. Your times may vary, but go slow and like I said before, use whatever you need to to wrap the sandpaper around to get to those curved sections.
EindhovenOne said:
Hello, all. I have seen this on a few other sites but I couldn't find it here, and if it has been posted here then I apologize in advance but please know that I don't take credit for this idea, I just wanted to share my modification and post instructions on how I did it because I honestly believe it came out perfect!
To achieve what you see in the pictures below, all you need is some 440 grit sandpaper, some compressed air duster, and some patience. Also, make sure you have a case opener tool and a T-5 torx bit to take the phone apart. Once you get everything separated, just go to work on the black paint with the sandpaper. I used 1x1 inch squares that I cutout from a large sheet; it only took five squares to complete this. Just be patient and use a pen or similar small tube to wrap the sandpaper around to get into the curved areas with ease. Take your time, it is well worth the wait. Once you are all done, take a fresh piece of sandpaper and go over the whole thing quickly one last time, then with a slightly damp cotton cloth wipe away the dust to get that deep red color back and use the air duster to remove the particles. Put everything back together and enjoy!!! The look is totally clean and smooth and so damn sexy! I am going back to my clear case from my otter box just to show it off. I don't think I left anything out but just post any questions and I'll get right back to you.
Once again, thanks to everyone who did this before be and gave me the inspiration. I really think this is the best way to go about it...no chemicals, no razors or blades, no dremel tools. Just some up close and personal TLC with some really really fine sandpaper.
Good luck and post some photos of your results!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks awesome bro, what grit of sandpaper did you use?
NM 440 Thanks lol
Checking out the packaging again, it's actually 400 grit...3M brand pro grade in a purple sleeve. Thanks for the kudos. Definitely post some pics when you're through. And don't forget that when you're done to go over it with a damp cotton rag or clean tshirt to get the dry dust off...that's when the true red color will pop out!
being a modeler for many years i'd just like to add if you want a smoother finish than the 400 you can go 1000/2000 and wetsand it.
Oh and that looks pretty awesome, good job!
i wanted to do something like this, but i wanted a red battery cover.
Is the white one red under as well?
I am actually not sure if the white one is red underneath...I'd say try some google images perhaps. On another note, on the advice of lacrossev, I did in fact give the red part another once over with some 1000 grit 3M WET/DRY sandpaper after putting the smallest bit of water on the paper and wow does it look amazing! Thank you, sir!
Jbroad572 said:
Is the white one red under as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes it is.
will this void my asurion insarance or will they still replace it some haha trying it now owell lol i still wanna know thanks
I am not 100% sure, but if you take apart the phone and break the security tape that is over the one torx screw that definitely messes with the warranty and insurance claims to follow. If you were brave enough to try the sanding without taking the phone apart I don't know if it would cause problems with asurion.
HiDefinition said:
yes it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh snap son... headed to grab some sand paper now, but is it mandatory to take the phone apart? I bought a set of torqs for an old tp2, but finding it... another story
EindhovenOne said:
I am not 100% sure, but if you take apart the phone and break the security tape that is over the one torx screw that definitely messes with the warranty and insurance claims to follow. If you were brave enough to try the sanding without taking the phone apart I don't know if it would cause problems with asurion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rather then take the phone apart, you should be able to seal up the areas of it with some tape, and i just skimmed assurions contract and didn't see any thing about body mods to the phone
I wouldn't say that taking it apart is mandatory at all, but at some point you're going to have to retape because the sandpaper is going to rub through the tape at some point in the process. I can't wait to see what the red looks like with the white. Post some pics when you're done!!!
EindhovenOne said:
I wouldn't say that taking it apart is mandatory at all, but at some point you're going to have to retape because the sandpaper is going to rub through the tape at some point in the process. I can't wait to see what the red looks like with the white. Post some pics when you're done!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely will.
The highest grit sandpaper that is available at most hardware stores is 400 or 660. If you are looking for the 1000 or 2000 grit either ask a local body shop nicely for one sheet and throw them a few bucks for one sheet, or ask where their supply store is. I went to my local FinishMaster auto body supply store today and that's where I picked up the 1000 wet/dry by 3M, but they had 1200 1400 and 2000 grit there as well.
EindhovenOne said:
The highest grit sandpaper that is available at most hardware stores is 400 or 660. If you are looking for the 1000 or 2000 grit either ask a local body shop nicely for one sheet and throw them a few bucks for one sheet, or ask where their supply store is.
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Click to collapse
Cheaper and easier still..... get a women's 7 in 1 nail file or a 3 step buffing board. That would get you all levels for $2 and can be found in walmart, basically anywhere they sell nail polish.
Also, the best polishing effect for plastic I have found is using a dremel with dremel ceramic polish and a large felt wheel. Comes out super smooth every time!
I was going to teardown evo, so I bought 'plastic opening tool' to open it. After removing the six screws, I had a hard time detach the red shell. My plastic opening tool easily broke after applying a little pressure. Anyone has good idea how to open it?
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Hey there. Just opened my evo for the first time yesterday. I wont mention the method that I used because it left little jagged edges in my plastic frame. I would try again with a plastic "safe-pry" tool, just like the green ones you posted. It takes considerably more force than I had expected after removing the torx screws, both to remove the backing (pictured in your post) and to remove the screen (this is what I was up to - cracked glass replacement). "A bit of adhesive" is what I was told holds the glass into the plastic frame... understatement of the year with my Evo. I really had to work at it. Again, the tool I used jacked me up a little, so I would not reccommend using anything other than something plastic that can slide in between the separation of the frame and whatever you are trying to remove. Good luck!
so THATS what the inside of my phone looks like
I'm too afraid to even attempt to open mine..
I had a dream one night that I dropped it in the toilet, I quickly took out the battery dried it off, but it was broke.
I woke up sweaty and relieved that it was just a dream!!
Worst dream ever ><
I've been looking everywhere for a plastic safety tool. Where can you buy them other than online
Sent from my SUPERSONIC NOCTURNAL ECLIPSED EVO using xda premium
After removing the midget screws, I found two different ways to go about removing the housing. 1 a guitar pick, like shown. 2 a plastic credit card. Either will do just fine. ^^
This is what the beast looks like under the hood:
Just use your fingernail and go all the way around the case, ive had mine apart like fifty times, too easy...
jr71x said:
Just use your fingernail and go all the way around the case, ive had mine apart like fifty times, too easy...
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I agree that's all I've ever used and never had a problem...
Sent from my PC36100 using xda premium
Best website I've come across regarding Evo repair instructions, even provides links and purchasing options for the tools needed, as well as parts
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-Evo-4G-Rear-Speaker/3067/1
Hope this helps.
EDIT: Sorry, just realized this thread was like a month old.
Four clips around phone
The video is a good guide and same one I used, just adding a reminder.
The plastic tool is to be used along the gap to remove the adhesive and separate the clips along the sides of the phone, careful for the be clips or very delicate and can easily broken with your fingers.
I've always just use a small metal flathead screw driver. Never had any issues, but my frame is not structurally sound either. There is a crack near the 1/8" jack from throwing it around.
I was able to buy a complete set of tools from a frys electroic store. I use them to fix smartphones and laptops. Those green pry tools and guitar picks look like they should work. :good:
i was able to use my index fingers and thumbs to bump a 6 month old thread, and the back cover came right off. easy peasy.
atljatl said:
i was able to use my index fingers and thumbs to bump a 6 month old thread, and the back cover came right off. easy peasy.
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Click to collapse
Haha. Yeah, best advice I can give is to not force anything that feels like it is being stubborn and only use plastic tools when prying open things.
Those longer blue and green tools (about 2 in) with narrow edges are absolute junk. They broke on me during a screen replacement for a friend and i swapped to a metal electronics flathead and took my time. Only a few marred edges.
this has nothing really to do with this thread but i swear i thought the title said "eye opening tool" i then proceeded to "wat?" all over the place wondering why its in the accessories section for the evo, then i realized the error in my reading haha
PhxkinMassacre said:
this has nothing really to do with this thread but i swear i thought the title said "eye opening tool" i then proceeded to "wat?" all over the place wondering why its in the accessories section for the evo, then i realized the error in my reading haha
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I've used evo opening tools to open my eyes with minimal and painful success.
I usually use either an old gift card or my thumbnails.
flossinon24s said:
I usually use either an old gift card or my thumbnails.
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Almost 10 posts
Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you
Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!
You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha
Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954
Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.
Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks
THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
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Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
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Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......
This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
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Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.
Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.
What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?