Hi,
I want to use my Blueangel (XDA IIs) as a remote control with the novii remote software, but the range is too short, so i want to try and increase the range.
I have heard that some people with ipaqs have replaced a resistor to increase the range. Is there a similar resistor in the blueangel that I can replace? Or perhaps a different IR LED that I can install?
Thanks,
Laser493
Related
I've come up with a stupid plan to turn a BA (an old one, bought for spare parts) into a touchscreen remote controller. The problem is, to make it worthwhile I'd need to boost the IR range by a good 3-4m (9-12ft).
Hopefully something like replacing a resistor and/or the IR LED could do the trick.
Anyone got any ideas?
The IR range on BA is really really short! I have tried that, it is not worth to use it as remote control unless you can boost the IR range.
Only thing I've ever seen was someone use a lense to focus the beam. Ugly, but it worked.
V
use something that has CIR..
HP ipaq 3970, 5450 or 2210.
This have commercial IR modules that can go up to 5m range.
while searching for this http://www.google.com/search?num=10...q=hp+resistor+infrared+range+100k&btnG=Search
i found this http://www.hpcalc.org/hp48/docs/misc/ir-boost.txt
and this http://www.hpcalc.org/hp48/docs/misc/ir-boo2.txt
Hi all!
For sound out, there are adapters (I already have one), which convert from that custom 2.5" jack to a standard 3.5" - which even let the built in microphone active. OK.
But is there any adapter for the opposite? Converting the microphone / sound in part of that custom 2.5" to an e.g. 3.5" - so that some standard microphone or some other sound pickup could be attached?
Wether built in speaker would be left active or not isn't relevant for me.
Background: I have one of those programs for tuning musical instruments. It works fine with the built in mic in relatively silent rooms and for acoustic instruments. But imagine beeing on stage between two songs while the crowd is cheering!
If no such accessory is available: I would spend some extra Euros for a second hands free thing, cut off the side with the 2.5" plug and tinker a 3.5" on the open end.
But will this work - or have I to include some resistors or such?
Thanks, greetings
Manfred
There are such adapter on sales
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=113967&tab=0
As for the issue of resister, I don't think you will be needing any. I've no experience on electric musical instruments, but a microphone is a essentially an active resistor/capacitor that convert sounds to resistance/capacitance-variation and hence electric signals. It does not produce any form of voltage itself (eg. you do not need battery for microphone).
Hence, it depends on your musical instruments. If you were to get the adaptor above, perform a voltage test on all 6 combinations (of the 3 contacts) to make sure your instruments does not produce any form of voltage/current. If it does not produce any form of voltage, you ought to be safe for a direct plug-in.
(oops, did I mix up " with mm in my initial post )
Are you using this adaptor yourself? With a Prophet? Does it work?
Not to appear nagging, but there are three facts that make me doubt:
- the description there tells me, that it "converts the standard 2.5mm three conductor jack"
- which can also be seen on the "larger image" (those pictures at expansys often are near causing eye cancer >;-) ), where the plug has *three* contacts
- description also tells us, the adaptor converts to a "3.5mm Mono Headphone Jack".
Well, the jack of Prophet has *four* contacts, and sound out comes in *stereo*. I guess that: tip and first ring are - stereo - out; 2nd ring is mic in; last "ring" obviously is ground. This I take from the fact, that my adaptor for standard 2.5mm to standard 3.5mm stereo earphones really delivers stereo out, but the internal mic is still working.
So I also guess, that this adaptor here has e.g. *mono* out on tip, mic in on 1st ring - and ground on third and last ring - which also would lead to connecting Prophet's mic to ground.
Or am I totally wrong here?
The question about resistors (and such) comes from looking at
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
(but that's Wallaby and Himalaya wiring, and with the latter there's also an extra (5th!) "outer sleeve" connector); but you can see in the drawing there, that there are a diode and three capacitors between mic and ground, and serially a resistor (but all without values).
So I fear, that just connecting a (passive) guitar pickup won't deliver satisfying results.
Hmm. didn't notice that one is a mono output. Anyway, can't really find one with mic and headphone out for streo (actually, gave up searching). I guess there aren't enough market for people pluging in their own mic.
As for the diagram, it looks like that, for the micrphone, the circular wiring thing is an inductor, not a resistor, since it is marked as L1. From what it seems, it looks like those capacitors and inductor is there to bias the circuit such that the mic is to be in the right impedance to pickup speech. That is more to "adjust" the mic such that it will gives the correct values (probably due to its small size?). So, if you were to plugin in your instruments directly, the result may not be that good. But probably it will. You may need to tune your software to adjust for this?
As for the z-diode there, it is a mystery to me. Can't think of anything useful for it, except to ensure the mic-in is always >= 0 (greater or equals to zero).
Well, first of all: thanks a lot for your answers!!
I also gave up searching before posting here; also searched for a separate 4-ring 2.5mm plug; but before investing in a second headset just to get that plug, I thought I'd ask here ...
Inductors, resistors et all ... it's been way too long since my physics intensive course on grammar school ...
Your thoughts sound logical.
So I'll get me the headset for the plug and tinker an adaptor myself - without any extra inductors or capacitors. Will see how it works - if not, well, I'll come back here again to ask for the values of them ... and tinker along ;-)
I build an adapter on my own out of the standard hands free headphone which was included in delivery.Unfortuately I had to destroy the case a bit I just made a kabel with a 3,5 mm jack and soldered it on the circuit board and bridged the build in mikrophone.Now I am able to connect a stand alone microphone to my Prophet.
Cheers
you can order one @ http://mobile.brando.com.hk/
@ Repose: you mean the handsfree headphone? I already ordered one at expansys
@ colida: that's another idea, keeping the circuit board. Such, all capacitors etc. are in place ... maybe just looks a bit ugly, you really have to break that little housing.
I consider buying a HTC W100 Wired Remote Control, but I cannot seem to find the length of the cable between the USB and the actual remote.
I was hoping someone here has the remote control, and are able to tell me approximately how long the cable is?
yeah i wouldnt mind knowing as well...
also what is the diff between the E100 and the W100?
and is there a mic on the remote?
Yes there is a mic.
e100 comes with crappy head phones i believe, the w100 i purchased doesn't come with head phones
the cable is.. i don't know the measurements i dont have it on me right now, but i can attach the remote to my collar just under my neck and then put my device in my front pants pocket and still have a bit of length left on the cord.
now, the headphones im using are wrapped up really short because those are so long.
I got it yesterday. Cablelength is about 1 meter.
But... what is disappointing is that it will only work with the built in mediapleyer on my Tytn II. When hitting the 'play' button it always starts mediaplayer (or the derived HTC version)
Does anyone have a solution for this? I want to use it with coreplayer.
Hi,
Stick with me on this one...
One of my hobbies is photography and recently I discovered an app called PhotoIRmote which lets you control your camera via your Android phone. The downside being it has to be via Infrared. Now, the dev's site provides links to build your own IR transmitter to run via the 3.5mm headphone jack, or alternatively he has provided links to pre-made cables for purchase. So, since it's been many years since I used a soldering iron I bought a pre-made cable.
PhotoIRmote App
DSLR.bot Cable
The app been proven to work with many different Android devices and camera models, mine included. However, upon receiving the cable it doesn't appear to work with the Desire HD. You can actually test the IR cable in the remote app to see if it works. With the "amplify" option checked in settings it doesn't blink, however with the option unchecked it does blink. This suggests suggests that DHD can power the IR cable, but it's signal is too weak to make it transmit the IR beam to the camera.
I remember all the talk of headphones being too quiet so I then tried the app below to boost headphone output thinking it might help, however after testing I still had no joy.
Volume+ App
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on how I might be able to get this working?
Cheers!
Lee
Look at you infra red transmitter through a digital camera,then you should be able to see if it "lights"up.Test it out on another remote first .
CitizenLee said:
Hi,
Stick with me on this one...
One of my hobbies is photography and recently I discovered an app called PhotoIRmote which lets you control your camera via your Android phone. The downside being it has to be via Infrared. Now, the dev's site provides links to build your own IR transmitter to run via the 3.5mm headphone jack, or alternatively he has provided links to pre-made cables for purchase. So, since it's been many years since I used a soldering iron I bought a pre-made cable.
PhotoIRmote App
DSLR.bot Cable
The app been proven to work with many different Android devices and camera models, mine included. However, upon receiving the cable it doesn't appear to work with the Desire HD. You can actually test the IR cable in the remote app to see if it works. With the "amplify" option checked in settings it doesn't blink, however with the option unchecked it does blink. This suggests suggests that DHD can power the IR cable, but it's signal is too weak to make it transmit the IR beam to the camera.
I remember all the talk of headphones being too quiet so I then tried the app below to boost headphone output thinking it might help, however after testing I still had no joy.
Volume+ App
Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on how I might be able to get this working?
Cheers!
Lee
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you could try to hook it up to an amplifier (phone audio output connected to amplifier input, and amplifier output connected to IR transmitter), but be careful not to set the output volume too high. If it works, you can build (or buy) a little amplifier, and power it from another battery, or from the phones battery. It might not be the best looking rig, but it will (hopefully) do the job.
B.R.:
d3m0n
Hi,
Can anyone confirm if MTCD PX5/PX6 devices support VSS (Vehicle speed sense) without a canbus? One of my cars don't use canbus, but it does control audio volume depending on the speed. It is a convertible car and it works in the way that as soon as the roof is folded it activates the switch and audio volume increases. One of my old aftermarket head units had a "Speed+" pin on the connector and it workd out of the box however I am seeing that these new Rockchip devices for example Dasaita units don't have that wire anywhere in the harness but perhaps it is not activated on the main board?
mariof said:
Hi,
Can anyone confirm if MTCD PX5/PX6 devices support VSS (Vehicle speed sense) without a canbus? One of my cars don't use canbus, but it does control audio volume depending on the speed. It is a convertible car and it works in the way that as soon as the roof is folded it activates the switch and audio volume increases. One of my old aftermarket head units had a "Speed+" pin on the connector and it workd out of the box however I am seeing that these new Rockchip devices for example Dasaita units don't have that wire anywhere in the harness but perhaps it is not activated on the main board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't need vehicle speed sense input as it has GPS.
Modded ROMs, launchers and xposed mods provide this function (vehicle speed dependant volume control) via GPS.